Snapper EZ Speed - Replacing Drive Bushings & Bearings
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2021
- Step by Step!
Today we'll be replacing the drive bearings and shifter bushings on this Snapper EZ Speed residential self propelled mower!
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Incredible step by step SOP. You should be teaching shop to a bunch of High Schoolers ...what our country needs more than ever.
That was an awsome step by step ..including diagram and part no.s was next level helpful ..THANKS 😁
Excellent tutorial.
I'm working on an older version rear wheel drive Snapper that has the same mechanical setup. I'm visually impaired and it is difficult to figure out the disassembly of this. I had to replace the self-propelled belt and discovered both bearings were shot. Without this detailed video, I would never have taken this apart far enough to discover that. Loved all the great tips too.
Extremely well put together video on a drive system not normally found on most self propelled mowers. Also not many Snapper videos on line. Thanks for getting "right to it."
Thanks for watching!
Btw your video helped me tremendously. I removed and replaced the drive belt and drive ring. But your explanation of what the drive system helped me understand the system and showed me how to reassemble as I started the repair weeks ago and didn’t take pics. I did pretty good but it just didn’t look right. Replacing the bearings after watching this video. Might as well make it like new. It’s a commercial one and was given to me so I want it to last since I’m placing the effort.
Good thing you adjusted the low speed at the end. I'd hate to spill my beverage sitting in that cup holder! 😂Seriously, thanks for the thorough repair overview. I've had some luck using a grease gun with a hypo needle to pack those bearings in the gap of those metal seals with extra grease.
E/P ... great video my bearing over the flywheel too went out. While watching I noticed one of the bearing parts bags had dimensions on it. You also mentioned wanting a better "sealed" bearing. Well I used a front wheel bearing for a John Deere LT150, fitted perfectly and won't have to worry about it going bad it has the seals you mentioned. I used those bearing to upgrade from the steel bushings on my LA125. Those bearing I put on the 125 have close to 800 hours on them. On a sidebar note, if you want to make a 100 series from about 20 years ago to present steer easier ... replace with the LT150 bearings, using JD baler chain an cable spray lube on the "steering fan gears" give'em a good coating, and add about 5 extra pounds of air to the front tires. Thanks again, my 14 year old Snapper runs great again.
I rarely comment on "how to" videos, but this was an excellent demonstration of how to get that drive system working properly again and I'm assuming tame down the rattling. Well detailed steps and I also have a washer between the hex shaft nut and bearing. Liked and subscribed. Keep up the good work, TH-cam could use more guys like you.
Thanks for the kind words!
I, too, do not usually comment on "how to" videos, but this demonstration is VERY well done. The details are excellent. I would, however, have preferred that you had shown all of the reassembly. I think I had some difficulty getting a couple pieces to go back together when I did part of this repair in 2022 (before I saw this video). Thanks for the high-quality production!
I have several commercial 21 snappers and they all came from the factory with the square drive Robertson screws in the bearing retainer. I've seen that exact mower with pop rivets in place of the screws as well straight from Snapper
That's interesting, usually we don't see them used on products much. More in wood working.
Looking around because I think my drive belt is slipping. Mines a little different with an easy to engage lever on the back handle for drive, but these were so well made back in the day and well designed. Great explanation
Thank you for this video. I have the same model. Today I took the controls and handles off to reduce the weight of lifting it. Your video and another fellows were the instructions I needed. I ran my mower for 5 minutes to warm the oil, drained the oil, and replaced the oil with new oil. It's ready for another season.
Just finished up. Got 6-32 screws and used lock washer and lock next nut. Thank you for this video so much. Couldn't have done it on my own...now the engine belt
Had to drill out holes. Like 1/64 more.. Big box store....no 10-32 screws in stock.
Matt - thanks for mentioning 6-32nds...that did the job on mine. Cheers
Awesome explanation of how this is supposed to work. I got one at auction and its a rusty mess. The rubber wheel does not slide on the hex shaft. Now I know how to take it apart and clean it to make it work correctly. $22 auction find, 2000 model with the Quantum engine. I might not want to flip this one, it might be a keeper. Thank you for quality content!
mine is so rusted that i cant even pull to start it.
Kick-ass video! Thanks man!
Very concise and well presented demonstration as usual, thanks! 👍👍. Complicated system.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this very clear presentation. My Snapper is a Hi-Vac from 2007, with this exact type of drive system. I was looking at the diagrams in my parts manual that I have, and now I feel better prepared to deal with problems that might come up. This will be my 5th season with it, and the only drive system so far was the speed would creep up while I was mowing, and you could see the driven disc slowly moving out from the center area of the drive disc. It turned out that the driven disc was not at a clean 90 degree angle to the drive disc, and just squaring it up fixed that problem. Now having watched this in-depth video, I am better prepared if something else needs attention. Thanks!
Tighten the nut/bolt on the shifter lever under the handle bars and it'll prevent the machine from creeping the shifter! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video!! Good dialog and explanations! Excellent closeups as needed! Thank you so much!!
This is a great video especially for me since I have this same mower. Thanks.
Just finished rebuild on my Snapper following this excellent video. The plastic bushings have been upgraded to metal tubes and are meant to be tapped in from what I experienced. One of the two I had to sand down with 400 paper as I could not get it to fit in the bracket hole. The other one I got in without sanding down but when setting to fastest walk speed it slips out and has to be manually guided back in otherwise you can't get back to slow speed as it stops the drive wheel from moving inward. I don't cut grass at a trot so it may not be a problem but wonder what they were thinking when they designed it as there's nothing to keep it in place like the plastic bushings.
The outside hex bearing was designed to have some wobble. On the inner bearing for my Snapper there are 4-10-32 x1/4 self tap screws and are on the diagram for my mower. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks for watching!
I really like your videos. I like your explanation of everything you do. That helps to understand how things work. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
I have a video coming up on a very similar gravely coming out soon (Scheduled) but it just needs love from too much abuse. You beat me to one of these. LOL
Yea I wanted to do a follow up to the comparison video I did, this thing runs great now!
Old Man here Bruce, looking forward to watching your video. The kid beat you to this one but we have the commercial unit we picked up for a $10 trade in and this customers. Our 1 to 2 day service or repair (dependant upon parts availability) created this video plus the fact there are very few videos on line for this type of self propelled mower.
saved me a trip and ten dollars not having to buy the “special” self tapping screws from the snapper dealership to keep that bearing in. thank you!
They probably fell out of this one! Using some nuts and bolts I had laying around seemed to work good
I just acquired a 14 series. I changed the rubber wheel. Snap rings seemed ok. The bearings are shot. I got all the parts today..I will install the new bearings and the plastic bearings. But now I have a problem with gas in the crank case. Needle and seat seemed ok. Drained the oil..which is new. And is black after a week...so new oil. I'm only getting 40 psi on compression tester. Can't do a leak down...ask the Snapper Restoration is still going on
Great job as usual 👍🏻
Have seen a lot of mowers coming in with rusted control cables. Customers either leaving them outside or cutting in the rain, what is your guess? How about a video on how you lubricate cables for snowblowers and mowers!
Good idea, thanks for watching!
Good day Boy interesting video. Explained well . Thanks I found lawn mower with rear hatch closed for mulching, but I noticed that alot of grass goes in under plastic cover & slowed belt down.
Don you still driving a Chevy?
@@waynestefinashen239 Good day Wayne, yes still r driving Thanks LOL
You saved my A$$! Thank you for a terrific presentation - appreciate there was no music, just info. I own you a beer!
Thanks for watching, glad it helped
Nice Mower , aluminum deck nice .
Thanks for a great video. Any tips on replacing the stretch belt?
One drop of 3&1 oil on the guide shaft/pin and one drop on the drive wheel shaft after every 2nd or 3rd use and viola you will never have any shifting issues. Only one drop cuz if you over oil it ends up on drive disc which intern causes slipping.
It looks like when I was replacing my Bushings, the original had some small welds around the larger inside bushing, so when you removed the original you need the holes to make sure the replacement bushing would not come out
Older snappers have screws to hold that bearing in. Check it out.
I've got one of these mowers (bought in 2015) and the transmission is leaking grease on the side of the back right wheel. I THINK the outer bearing has play in it, causing the leak, but it looks like that bearing is INSIDE the transmission case - is this correct? If so ....... any video on taking transmission apart to repair internally?
BTW - this is a really good video on the drive disc replacement - thanks for posting ...
Any suggestion on removing the lock nut? I have tried a socket and holding the shaft and it will not budge
Im currently trying to replace the rear wheels in this model of mower. The only problem is that the metal insert for the wheels has seized onto the axle. Im at a lose for what to do other than try an angle grinder and gear puller.
The rubber friction wheel on my mower has a flat spot in it and I’m having a hard time finding a replacement, do you have the part number for that as well. Thanks in advance.
And instead of those nylon bushings the older ones use a tube in between
So the screws idea is key. I just did this and the bearing falls out when shifting to speed 1. Gotta get screws.
I have Snapper 7800845-01 when I make it fast, entire friction wheel assembly falls off of the shaft?? Any advice?
What was the symptom that led you to believe the bearings needed replaced? I never hear that explained.
Looking on any info on servicing the gear box on mine leaking oil? Anyone? Thanks!
Where did you get the table that the lawn mower is on?
We built it on a modified hydraulic lift table, check out Bruce's shop on TH-cam for a tutorial
The old bearing had teeth on it that held it in
Makes sense, the new ones just slip out. Those screws and washers did the truck!
I had to gently hammer it out
The old bearing you could tell was great quality when it was new
What state are you in?
Canada
Newer Snappers. JUNK.
Bought out by Murry?