Thanks for the video ... I used a five gallon bucket with a 3 inch hole cut in the bottom. Works like a charm. Takes a long time and a lot of work but i can see major improvements in my yard, particular a soggy saturated corner. Standing water after i would use a zone on my sprinklers, a few years later i can run my sprinklers twice as long and no standing water.
I'm not ready to explain myself to my wife or neighbors, so I've been trying to drill in either inconspicuous backyard areas or when no one is around. If my test areas work, I'll proudly drill the front yard at high noon :) I'm Drilling with 1.25" Diablo brand wood auger bit. 13" deep if no rocks. It has been slower than I hoped. Maybe a minute a hole. Spaced about 5" apart. I only do about 10 holes a day, so my 1/2" chuck drill (plug in, not cordless) can cool down. I have been using NEXT biostimulants products the past year but the holes seem more tangible. If the holes and compost filler combo produce better water and air and microbe infiltration, I'll consider it a success and maaaaybe worth the time and effort. I'm fascinated by the Soil Food Web cycle and view this as a big science experiment. I can't see the average person ever spending this much time building healthy soil. Nicer grass is icing on the cake. Too soon to tell if I'm a schmuck. I've only drilled about 5% of my 8600 sqft yard. I hope other viewers will comment if you've tried the Drill & Fill technique so I, and others, can learn from it.
You are playing the long game with this technique, no doubt about it. I’ve been extremely impressed with the results though. We had a horrible drought here in Texas this summer and the benefits really showed through. You could almost see the spots I’ve treated because they held up much longer than the untreated areas. Best of luck to you my friend.
Questions for you. I'm about to do core aeration on our clay soil yard. One, do you pick up the plugs since they are just the crappy clay i really don't want? Two would you topsoil with a mixture of sand and soil? Thanks!!
@@daves9355 my understanding is that the clay actually holds a lot of good useful nutrients that are just tied up and inaccessible. I believe that all of those nutrients will become useful if you have microbes that can access them. I always leave the plugs on the ground to just break down. As far as the sand goes, I've always heard that sand mixed with clay creates a concrete like barrier. This seems counterintuitive as you would expect water to flow through sand and get to the bottom of the holes. So I have little personal experience with the effects to share with you. The core aeration is a good first step. Adding organic material into those holes to feed microbes which then feed worms starts a domino effect which is how I've been attempting to improve my clay yard. Feed the microbes (bacteria, fungi, and microscopic bugs), and the circle of life does most of the work that we've been short circuiting with man made fertilizers. Also remember that fungicides kill these valuable microbes so find other solutions that protect these microbes.
Wow, that's 40x20m yard = fat least ew years of drilling with that method. If you can have some other plants and not just grass you may consider some "bio weapons", meaning plants with extensive root systems which hopefully can penetrate hard soil. To give them some head start you may drill smaller, deep holes so the water and then roots will fill them in. Check out the root system of vetiver and alfalfa i.e.
Sir, i am in italy and i'm following your videos on this subject for a while. And you are amazing! This last video was the cherry on top, because me too was trying to find a way to drill out the clay without splattering it everywhere on the lawn next to the hole. At first i wanted to use a cardboard plate with the hole drilled into it, but man, the plastic container solution you showed is THE SOLUTION. THANK YOU SO MUCH
Well I’m giving it a shot.. but didn’t wanna mess around. Ended up renting a Little Beaver auger from the local hardware store. Tried to find a container to collect the clay, but quickly realized it was too small and tedious to contend with. 4in diameter holes, approximately 32” apart, approximately 20-24” deep. 2500sqft of sod and I’m beat. Still need to go back and scrape up the piles around the holes.. but I’m interested to see the difference next season. 😄
Great channel, great information. I know making these videos are time consuming, but I you've got a natural talent for this medium, plus you are a subject matter expert. I hope to see more videos from you in the future.
This is AWESOME!! I have one of those step-on-it aerator like-shovels but my clay soil keeps getting stuck in it (hard to get it to pop out). But this device makes a larger hole and makes it easier to get the new/better soil into it (my grass needs to remain tall so it is hard to get the soil into the smaller holes). Plus makes it much easier to remove the plugged clay since it won't go into the tall grass. Not sure why more people don't show this tool being used!
Great idea mate. I use this method when cutting gyprock walls or when cutting holes through the ceiling. WHY, didn’t think of using this for the lawn. Good job mate.
i think spreading out decompacted clay from the borehole is not such a bad thing especially on the top layer that will eventually be dressed? clay in small doses is fine, but 100% compacted clay is the issue, right? here is my question (if you're still monitoring these comments) - would larger boreholes be ok? For example, I'm removing bermuda and plan to put in tall fescue, but realized that the bermuda was living poorly in about 2-3in of marginal quality topsoil. So my plan was to bring in A LOT of organically enhanced topsoil (was hoping to get 4-5" after compaction. But, I still don't think that's enough and found your channel. Using your technique on steroids, I could use an auger to drill 4" holes and fill with good soil so the grass can root deeply. Initially I would do a hole every few feet then end up doing more later after sod is down. It is a lot of work over 2000 sq ft because the clay layer is almost as hard as my concrete driveway, but I plan to do small sections at a time and only want to do this one time! Thoughts?
Could you drill deep and fill it with gravel to help drainage? My clay yard is breaking my heart. I would love my young son to have a dry yard to play on
Try a mix of top soil and grit down the holes and grow grass plugs in small pots to plant out at the top of the core. If drainage is really bad then french drains are the only real option.
Just going to start driling my lawn today and saw this, what a great idea. I think there's an ice cream tub in the freezer I can use, I'll have to empty it first though 😁
Ordering one right now. A good portion of my yard is stunted cause the clay soil is so hard. I tried putting a screw driver in the soil to test how hard it is and I had to put all my body weight into it.
Great vid. Two question. How close should the holes be? And how far down to drill? I mean going through the clay layer is obvious but my clay layer extends down to China.
Hi there. I brought myself a drill bit like the one in the video. I tried it last night. It did make a hole but didnt remove any soil like you did in the video. Does the soil need to be really dry before drilling? Thanks.
Hi We have an issue in our lawn .we always get puddle of water during rainy season Some one suggested we drill plastics pipe filled with gravel in to the soil I need idea to drill hole I. Clay soils.Thanksgiving
So quick question, i have an irrigation system and i know where my heads are, however I am scared to death to just randomly drill down 15" which might hit the hidden tubing below ground. How do you guys know where the actual irrigation tubing are located?
I see you are in Texas, myself as well, and have to assume you know all about the nightmares of clay soil with slab foundations. Do you think this would have a detrimental effect on a slab foundation? 6500sq ft lot with the house foot print at 1600 sq ft. Somewhat smaller property, so I wasn't sure if it might negatively affect a slab foundation.
I just found your channel and subscribed. Great video and information on deep core integration. I live in a heavy red clay area and would like to start your 5 step soil renovation process. A question, how far apart are you drilling the core holes? I was thinking of renting a core aerator, but I like your idea of going deeper with a bulb auger and filling in with good top soil or a compost material. From Wisconsin, thank you.
Haven’t but it would certainly work. The key would be to cut the hole in the bottom to the side and not in the center. That way you can lean the bucket over and prevent the clay from falling back through the hole when you lift it.
Spikes would be nice but not for my concrete front yard! I use a dollartree dish pan cause I'm using larger bit, on my huge weed farm n just slide lil piece of stiff cardboard under the pan as u pick it up so none gets in hole. I let my grandkids shove sticks and cardboard in each hole ...they think it's a game! Feed the worms!😄
Read your article about deep core integration and came on here to hopefully find a video on the subject. So glad you have a channel on here. Thank you for the demonstration. One question I have is regarding the backfill. You mentioned in your article that you fill the hole with mostly organic material then you top off the remaining 2 to 3 inches with good soil. Would backfilling the hole with cow compost (something like Baccto The Cow) achieve the same results? I don't compost good scraps so I would need to use something that's available in garden centers. One option I do have is using a 60/30/10 mix of soil, compost, sand from a local soil company but I'm not sure that contains enough organic matter.
That’s actually great organic matter but it can be a little rich. It’s definitely good for the deep core integration but cover with a couple inches of regular dirt so that you don’t risk burning the grass roots.
@@thrivingyard Here is another youtuber who tested multiple additives on clay soil and showed all her results. Her approach was scientific, her videos thorough and she is articulate. One slight difference is that she was working with garden soil instead of turf soil. The point of all this is that in her testing, the Compost/Cow Manure Combo produced the best results in terms of earthworm activity (which, I think, is what we want, right?). But I think you do make a great point here about the nitrogen burning potential of the manure. Anyway, if anyone else is interested -- th-cam.com/video/67XfjoIwIsc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks. I have clay soil in Idaho. I want to do this but I'm scared about hitting my buried irrigation line (idk where the lines run but we have 8 separate stations over 7k sqft). Any advice?
I don't know if there is a good solution to this; you may have already figured it out by now. From the irrigation heads, you can get a general idea of where the lines should be ... emphasis on the "should". They "should" be roughly 10" deep but I can tell you some of mine aren't that deep and I've come across them going 6" into the ground with a soil probe. Fortunately a soil probe isn't likely to damage the line but an auger bit will. If you assume that they are at least 10" deep and that they aren't taking some crazy pattern between heads then at least you've minimized the chances of having to make an intrusive and potentially expensive repair ... but hey, if you do hit one and have to repair it ... backfill with good soil!
Im thinking of doing this, this spring. Did raking the old clay soil after drilling the holes work at all? I'm thinking of drilling all the holes n raking up after
Ok so I tried the auger and after 15 minutes switched to a 6 ft digging rod. Very heavy tool with pointed end and chisel end. Tractor supply has for $30. Ram pointed end into ground, work it around..and repeat. After a few seconds labor u get a nice 20-24" deep by 3" wide hole. It does compact soil more than auger but since ur gonna fill with compost who cares. I then fill half way with pea gravel and remaining with equal parts premium compost and play sand mixed together in wheel barrow. I can dig 4-5 nice deep holes in 3 min. I plan on really deep soil integrating several places in my lawn that are shaded and that stays really wet after rain and tends to rot drown the grass. Im also going to every fall plug aerate these areas and throw down a nice layer of play sand and premium compost..seed it..and work it together. Im hoping that after a couple years that my wet issues will resolve and grass will be much better in these areas. It seems that every year my new grass will start out great..then winter comes and it just rots and dies.
Great tip for establishing a new lawn! This approach I’ve explained is really intended for existing lawns where ripping up all the grass isn’t an ideal option. Thanks!
A mop bucket is much better.. Put a hole 1 1/2 times the diameter of your bit and do the same have an exstra 5 gallon white bucket do dump the dross into.
Don't get rid of clay! Mix with compost and it will break down into the best soil money cannot buy. I've converted a lot of clay and have grown a lot in our backyard using the converted clay. Clay is dense in nutrients.
Thanks for the video ... I used a five gallon bucket with a 3 inch hole cut in the bottom. Works like a charm. Takes a long time and a lot of work but i can see major improvements in my yard, particular a soggy saturated corner. Standing water after i would use a zone on my sprinklers, a few years later i can run my sprinklers twice as long and no standing water.
I'm not ready to explain myself to my wife or neighbors, so I've been trying to drill in either inconspicuous backyard areas or when no one is around. If my test areas work, I'll proudly drill the front yard at high noon :) I'm Drilling with 1.25" Diablo brand wood auger bit. 13" deep if no rocks. It has been slower than I hoped. Maybe a minute a hole. Spaced about 5" apart. I only do about 10 holes a day, so my 1/2" chuck drill (plug in, not cordless) can cool down. I have been using NEXT biostimulants products the past year but the holes seem more tangible. If the holes and compost filler combo produce better water and air and microbe infiltration, I'll consider it a success and maaaaybe worth the time and effort. I'm fascinated by the Soil Food Web cycle and view this as a big science experiment. I can't see the average person ever spending this much time building healthy soil. Nicer grass is icing on the cake. Too soon to tell if I'm a schmuck. I've only drilled about 5% of my 8600 sqft yard. I hope other viewers will comment if you've tried the Drill & Fill technique so I, and others, can learn from it.
You are playing the long game with this technique, no doubt about it. I’ve been extremely impressed with the results though. We had a horrible drought here in Texas this summer and the benefits really showed through. You could almost see the spots I’ve treated because they held up much longer than the untreated areas.
Best of luck to you my friend.
Questions for you. I'm about to do core aeration on our clay soil yard. One, do you pick up the plugs since they are just the crappy clay i really don't want? Two would you topsoil with a mixture of sand and soil? Thanks!!
@@daves9355 my understanding is that the clay actually holds a lot of good useful nutrients that are just tied up and inaccessible. I believe that all of those nutrients will become useful if you have microbes that can access them. I always leave the plugs on the ground to just break down. As far as the sand goes, I've always heard that sand mixed with clay creates a concrete like barrier. This seems counterintuitive as you would expect water to flow through sand and get to the bottom of the holes. So I have little personal experience with the effects to share with you. The core aeration is a good first step. Adding organic material into those holes to feed microbes which then feed worms starts a domino effect which is how I've been attempting to improve my clay yard. Feed the microbes (bacteria, fungi, and microscopic bugs), and the circle of life does most of the work that we've been short circuiting with man made fertilizers. Also remember that fungicides kill these valuable microbes so find other solutions that protect these microbes.
@@hiljon My thought exactly. If you have the time, would love to read some updates on your progress.
Wow, that's 40x20m yard = fat least ew years of drilling with that method. If you can have some other plants and not just grass you may consider some "bio weapons", meaning plants with extensive root systems which hopefully can penetrate hard soil. To give them some head start you may drill smaller, deep holes so the water and then roots will fill them in. Check out the root system of vetiver and alfalfa i.e.
Sir, i am in italy and i'm following your videos on this subject for a while.
And you are amazing!
This last video was the cherry on top, because me too was trying to find a way to drill out the clay without splattering it everywhere on the lawn next to the hole.
At first i wanted to use a cardboard plate with the hole drilled into it, but man, the plastic container solution you showed is THE SOLUTION.
THANK YOU SO MUCH
I’m so glad, my friend. I hope you put it to good use. Keep me posted on your progress.
Good method. I use a shop vac to vacuum the dirt up. I do small sections at a time. 10'x10'.
Well I’m giving it a shot.. but didn’t wanna mess around. Ended up renting a Little Beaver auger from the local hardware store. Tried to find a container to collect the clay, but quickly realized it was too small and tedious to contend with.
4in diameter holes, approximately 32” apart, approximately 20-24” deep. 2500sqft of sod and I’m beat. Still need to go back and scrape up the piles around the holes.. but I’m interested to see the difference next season. 😄
Great channel, great information. I know making these videos are time consuming, but I you've got a natural talent for this medium, plus you are a subject matter expert. I hope to see more videos from you in the future.
This is AWESOME!! I have one of those step-on-it aerator like-shovels but my clay soil keeps getting stuck in it (hard to get it to pop out). But this device makes a larger hole and makes it easier to get the new/better soil into it (my grass needs to remain tall so it is hard to get the soil into the smaller holes). Plus makes it much easier to remove the plugged clay since it won't go into the tall grass. Not sure why more people don't show this tool being used!
Great idea mate. I use this method when cutting gyprock walls or when cutting holes through the ceiling. WHY, didn’t think of using this for the lawn. Good job mate.
i think spreading out decompacted clay from the borehole is not such a bad thing especially on the top layer that will eventually be dressed? clay in small doses is fine, but 100% compacted clay is the issue, right? here is my question (if you're still monitoring these comments) - would larger boreholes be ok? For example, I'm removing bermuda and plan to put in tall fescue, but realized that the bermuda was living poorly in about 2-3in of marginal quality topsoil. So my plan was to bring in A LOT of organically enhanced topsoil (was hoping to get 4-5" after compaction. But, I still don't think that's enough and found your channel. Using your technique on steroids, I could use an auger to drill 4" holes and fill with good soil so the grass can root deeply. Initially I would do a hole every few feet then end up doing more later after sod is down. It is a lot of work over 2000 sq ft because the clay layer is almost as hard as my concrete driveway, but I plan to do small sections at a time and only want to do this one time! Thoughts?
Could you drill deep and fill it with gravel to help drainage? My clay yard is breaking my heart. I would love my young son to have a dry yard to play on
Try a mix of top soil and grit down the holes and grow grass plugs in small pots to plant out at the top of the core. If drainage is really bad then french drains are the only real option.
Just going to start driling my lawn today and saw this, what a great idea. I think there's an ice cream tub in the freezer I can use, I'll have to empty it first though 😁
That’s a great excuse to eat ice cream!!! Good luck with your lawn.
That’s a great technique! Just a bit hard to deal with the neighbors looking 😂 but highly effective on improving soil!
Great idea!!! The Pro plugger doesn't go as far as the drill bit but could also serve the same purpose
Thank you.
Ordering one right now. A good portion of my yard is stunted cause the clay soil is so hard. I tried putting a screw driver in the soil to test how hard it is and I had to put all my body weight into it.
Mine too. Going to aerate this weekend, then start doing this also with spare time. Start working in some good soil
Love your videos! Going to start a new lawn on clay soil this fall! Thanks for the tips!
Thanks so much Laura!
So simple but amazing trick . Why didn't I see this last week lol
This man is a genius
Should I fill the holes with sharp sand to help change the make up of the substrate? My lawn doesn't drain and has poor growth.
How powerful does my drill need to be? Hitting a layer that stops my auger dead.
Great vid. Two question. How close should the holes be? And how far down to drill? I mean going through the clay layer is obvious but my clay layer extends down to China.
Hi there. I brought myself a drill bit like the one in the video. I tried it last night. It did make a hole but didnt remove any soil like you did in the video. Does the soil need to be really dry before drilling? Thanks.
Hi We have an issue in our lawn .we always get puddle of water during rainy season
Some one suggested we drill plastics pipe filled with gravel in to the soil
I need idea to drill hole I. Clay soils.Thanksgiving
So quick question, i have an irrigation system and i know where my heads are, however I am scared to death to just randomly drill down 15" which might hit the hidden tubing below ground. How do you guys know where the actual irrigation tubing are located?
I see you are in Texas, myself as well, and have to assume you know all about the nightmares of clay soil with slab foundations. Do you think this would have a detrimental effect on a slab foundation?
6500sq ft lot with the house foot print at 1600 sq ft. Somewhat smaller property, so I wasn't sure if it might negatively affect a slab foundation.
Many I know what is the size of the auger drill bit? Thx!
The one I’m using is a 2.5 inch diameter. It’s about 18 inches long
@@thrivingyard thank you so much!
I did this with a cardboard box. Works well enough too.
Good idea with the plastic container getting the clay out of there!
I just found your channel and subscribed. Great video and information on deep core integration. I live in a heavy red clay area and would like to start your 5 step soil renovation process. A question, how far apart are you drilling the core holes? I was thinking of renting a core aerator, but I like your idea of going deeper with a bulb auger and filling in with good top soil or a compost material. From Wisconsin, thank you.
Have you ever tried it with a 5 gallon bucket?
Haven’t but it would certainly work. The key would be to cut the hole in the bottom to the side and not in the center. That way you can lean the bucket over and prevent the clay from falling back through the hole when you lift it.
What are your thoughts on skipping the regular aeration and applying soil conditioner followed by deep core integration?
I’ve done it that way many times. If you do t have access to a core aerator that is perfectly fine to do.
A mid-sized cardboard box might work as well. Tape short steel spikes to the box to hold it into place to remove the need to use a foot.
I like that idea!
Spikes would be nice but not for my concrete front yard! I use a dollartree dish pan cause I'm using larger bit, on my huge weed farm n just slide lil piece of stiff cardboard under the pan as u pick it up so none gets in hole. I let my grandkids shove sticks and cardboard in each hole ...they think it's a game! Feed the worms!😄
Read your article about deep core integration and came on here to hopefully find a video on the subject. So glad you have a channel on here. Thank you for the demonstration.
One question I have is regarding the backfill. You mentioned in your article that you fill the hole with mostly organic material then you top off the remaining 2 to 3 inches with good soil. Would backfilling the hole with cow compost (something like Baccto The Cow) achieve the same results? I don't compost good scraps so I would need to use something that's available in garden centers. One option I do have is using a 60/30/10 mix of soil, compost, sand from a local soil company but I'm not sure that contains enough organic matter.
That’s actually great organic matter but it can be a little rich. It’s definitely good for the deep core integration but cover with a couple inches of regular dirt so that you don’t risk burning the grass roots.
@@thrivingyard Here is another youtuber who tested multiple additives on clay soil and showed all her results. Her approach was scientific, her videos thorough and she is articulate. One slight difference is that she was working with garden soil instead of turf soil. The point of all this is that in her testing, the Compost/Cow Manure Combo produced the best results in terms of earthworm activity (which, I think, is what we want, right?). But I think you do make a great point here about the nitrogen burning potential of the manure. Anyway, if anyone else is interested -- th-cam.com/video/67XfjoIwIsc/w-d-xo.html
Use a kitty litter tray, holds more dirt.
🤔
Thanks a lot for the info
You are most welcome!
Awesome 👍
Thanks. I have clay soil in Idaho. I want to do this but I'm scared about hitting my buried irrigation line (idk where the lines run but we have 8 separate stations over 7k sqft). Any advice?
Man I just don’t know - I would be concerned about that too but I’m not sure how to locate those.
I don't know if there is a good solution to this; you may have already figured it out by now. From the irrigation heads, you can get a general idea of where the lines should be ... emphasis on the "should". They "should" be roughly 10" deep but I can tell you some of mine aren't that deep and I've come across them going 6" into the ground with a soil probe. Fortunately a soil probe isn't likely to damage the line but an auger bit will. If you assume that they are at least 10" deep and that they aren't taking some crazy pattern between heads then at least you've minimized the chances of having to make an intrusive and potentially expensive repair ... but hey, if you do hit one and have to repair it ... backfill with good soil!
Im thinking of doing this, this spring. Did raking the old clay soil after drilling the holes work at all? I'm thinking of drilling all the holes n raking up after
Yes you want rake up the removed clay. Don’t leave in on the lawn.
Nice solution!
How do you avoid Drill kickback drilling in clay soil?
Great job! Thanks and God bless!
use a sheet of underlamiant for flooring cut to the size you can handle
My issue is that I have clay soils and tons of rocks underneath. I tried the drilling but not much luck.
Pizza box. It comes with a bonus pizza!
Genius!!!!
Great tip, thanks for that.
How would a bucket work?
I think a bucket would be just fine. I was just looking for some super cheap options for folks.
That is amazing!
Hey brother, just checkin in on you - haven't heard from you in a couple 9 or 10 months
I’m still here buddy. Just haven’t had an opportunity to upload any new videos. Hoping to get some out in the weeks ahead. Appreciate you!
I was planning on using an old/junk 1-gallon bucket ;).
That should work!
😳 ho li 💩
🤯 THIS GUY IS A FREAKING GENIUS...
Brilliant 🍻
Ok so I tried the auger and after 15 minutes switched to a 6 ft digging rod. Very heavy tool with pointed end and chisel end. Tractor supply has for $30. Ram pointed end into ground, work it around..and repeat. After a few seconds labor u get a nice 20-24" deep by 3" wide hole. It does compact soil more than auger but since ur gonna fill with compost who cares. I then fill half way with pea gravel and remaining with equal parts premium compost and play sand mixed together in wheel barrow. I can dig 4-5 nice deep holes in 3 min. I plan on really deep soil integrating several places in my lawn that are shaded and that stays really wet after rain and tends to rot drown the grass. Im also going to every fall plug aerate these areas and throw down a nice layer of play sand and premium compost..seed it..and work it together. Im hoping that after a couple years that my wet issues will resolve and grass will be much better in these areas. It seems that every year my new grass will start out great..then winter comes and it just rots and dies.
Ingenious :).
This guy is a god damn genius !
*You throw the excess soil in the neighbors yard?*
Just a joke 😂
add 3 of compost and rent a tiller and till it in. once and done!
Great tip for establishing a new lawn! This approach I’ve explained is really intended for existing lawns where ripping up all the grass isn’t an ideal option.
Thanks!
Un fk real . Such a simple brilliant idea mate.
Thank you my friend.
My clay is so hard and dry, I can't even get the auger bits to make a dent
A mop bucket is much better.. Put a hole 1 1/2 times the diameter of your bit and do the same have an exstra 5 gallon white bucket do dump the dross into.
Use a frisbee, last longer
That’s actually a great idea!
Wow... cool idea but my yard is 2.75 acres.🤪
That's a lot of drilling
I’ve got 2 acres myself. Just working it in small sections.
Don't get rid of clay! Mix with compost and it will break down into the best soil money cannot buy. I've converted a lot of clay and have grown a lot in our backyard using the converted clay. Clay is dense in nutrients.
Work smart, not hard! BRavo.
Neighbors yard!!
😂
Vegetarian stock
lol, OH NO There is earth on the monoculture! ;-)
wtf
Yeah, that's not clay soil...