I love your content about clay soil. To me, it’s a whole different beast (That none of the other Lawn TH-camrs really talk about). Would love to see more from you on this topic. Subscribed!
Ur thinking on the same waves as me. Ur 5 step is better than my 3 step, core aerate, mow, top dress. So ima add ur steps to it. Like we have had this conversation in a past life. Awesome.
Question... I have st Augustine and i thought I was laying down comoost/top soil but after water hit it, it looks more like sand and clay. Will it kill my grass? Or will grass be able to crack through? Just feel like its so thick and compacted
Very good information! Love it. I'm little confused though. Mabey you or someone can clarify. Are we talking about insecticide and herbicides or are we bundling fertilizer into this as well? I have heavy heavy clay and don't use herbicides insecticide but use chemical fertilizer. Thoughts?
My lawn is completely established and I can't do what most of these videos tell you to do. My solution was to plant Dutch White Clover along w/ over-seeding w/ grass seed. Clover tolerates conditions that grass doesn't. Bees love it. It fixes nitrogen in the soil, & I think it looks better than dried up grass! I've been told that "in the old days" clover seed was mixed w/ the grass seed. Now you have to buy it separately. It's an all natural solution. But no more broad-leaf weed killers, or they will die!
I do NOT recommend mixing sand with clay soil. We have tested this approach and the problem is that sand particles are small and can actually further the compaction. You need large particle organic material like compost to prevent compaction and increase aeration.
All is true but we know it comes down to herbcide only real to kill alot like nutsedge. Crabgrass Dallas weed. But what about the lime we put don.does that help neutralized chemicals as well.
Always have your soil tested before adding anything. My state offers soil testing for $25 thru University's Agriculture department. You can waste a ton of time and money adding nutrients your yard may not even need... and in some cases, you may be making matters worse.
My soil test came back recommending 12-12-12, can I get that organic and if so can it burn the grass up? Also I just put sod down, how often should I use the fertilizer a year?
Soil tests should give you an organic matter percentage to let you know if you need soil amendments to improve the fertility of your lawn. I use Logan's testing in Ohio. $25 per test, which covers everything related to lawn care. My soil was lacking in the Spring too. I just used Starter Fert, although I am not using Scotts anymore. I use Lesco. Better bang for the buck.
After years of wasting $ the only thing that’s going to improve a hard clay is mechanical aeration of some type. Don’t waste your time spraying some funky concoction and expect soil aggregation at depth . It’s not going to happen. Even core aeration with hollow tines isn’t the magic bullet because it’s impossible to get rid of compaction at depth. What helps is core aeration along with top dressing with compost to introduce carbon into the soil profile. Humic acid helps because it is. Good way to get organic material over a large area. It’s not a quick fix and you have to invest at least 5 years of fall aeration and compost applications to see any meaningful benefit but when the worms start showing up it definitely helps. Look at the actual scientific peer reviewed data. Don’t waste the effort on gimmicks.
Is it a gas powered one or the type you pull behind a mower? If a core aerator isn’t an option I would still encourage the deep soil integration method if you able to do that. Tell me your situation Becky,
@@thrivingyard I think it was one of those commercial grade ones. My neighbors and I put our money together to rent one for all of us to use. I've had two failed aeration attempts. I still have more weeds than grass unfortunately. I'm in NC with Bermuda grass and rock and clay underneath.
Well the clay we can work with but the rock can be extremely challenging. I’d like for you to be able to aggregate the soil at least 3 inches or so to be able to incorporate some organic matter. If you are unable to penetrate the soil even that deep then you may need to focus on a topsoil only approach. Impossible for me to say without seeing it but if the ground is so hard from rock that a commercial aerator can’t aggregate it that may be your only option. It may be worth contacting your local county extension office. They likely have better recommendations as they’ll be familiar with the region and soil qualities.
I knew it ...I knew ...I knew it. My neighbor has done this. And that side is ruined and my yard floods like never before. My neighbor killed all her grass in the backyard so she does not have to mow. Ugh. Now I have to fix this
Check out John and Bob's as well. They are a big proponent of healthy soils and how to take care of the soil so that it takes care of everything else. What's you take on their supplements?
Another great video sir, love it. By the way, following your advices last time had a massive positive pay off, thanks a lot. I'm so glad! Like you do in one of your video, I'm now as well very excited to inspect my garden in the morning haha! I have more ants hills and their colors are getting better and better (darker ) There's still work to do though, and it's all about the grind and patience as you well said. Got a question : what do you think about humic acid? I did use some. And what do you use to get rid of those fire ants ? Thanks for your nice work, Patrick.
Hey Patrick, sorry I didn't see this earlier. I'm a big fan of Humic acid. It is essentially the end result of decomposition. And those fire ants, uhg. I usually use Amdro but I'm careful to only spot treat around the ant beds.
I wish you were still putting out videos. They were very helpful
Thank you my friend. Hard to find the time but I would sure like to.
I love your content about clay soil. To me, it’s a whole different beast (That none of the other Lawn TH-camrs really talk about). Would love to see more from you on this topic. Subscribed!
Ur thinking on the same waves as me. Ur 5 step is better than my 3 step, core aerate, mow, top dress. So ima add ur steps to it. Like we have had this conversation in a past life. Awesome.
Super cool. Lets do this!
I enjoyed your video it’s very informative and you used a more natural approach for lawn care. On grubs what do you recommend in getting rid of them?
You are an extremely knowledgeable man, i absolutely love ALL of your videos
Question... I have st Augustine and i thought I was laying down comoost/top soil but after water hit it, it looks more like sand and clay. Will it kill my grass? Or will grass be able to crack through? Just feel like its so thick and compacted
Very good information! Love it. I'm little confused though. Mabey you or someone can clarify. Are we talking about insecticide and herbicides or are we bundling fertilizer into this as well? I have heavy heavy clay and don't use herbicides insecticide but use chemical fertilizer. Thoughts?
People been control spraying it seems to work has good for lawn many years.
would mushroom manure be ok to fill the deep cores with? its very cheap here and easy to get?
Would you recommend Milorganite on clay soil?
That is a great question. One that I’m also seeking an answer for as well. If you find something out, please let me know..
I'm trying to keep my yard up in Denver. Hardest thing ever. Ground is pure clay under the sod.
Same problem in Utah, along with lots of rocks.
My lawn is completely established and I can't do what most of these videos tell you to do. My solution was to plant Dutch White Clover along w/ over-seeding w/ grass seed. Clover tolerates conditions that grass doesn't. Bees love it. It fixes nitrogen in the soil, & I think it looks better than dried up grass! I've been told that "in the old days" clover seed was mixed w/ the grass seed. Now you have to buy it separately. It's an all natural solution. But no more broad-leaf weed killers, or they will die!
I want to know your opinion on using coarse sand to dilute clay soil to make it more friable and less compacted. Please share your thoughts. Thanks.
I do NOT recommend mixing sand with clay soil. We have tested this approach and the problem is that sand particles are small and can actually further the compaction. You need large particle organic material like compost to prevent compaction and increase aeration.
All is true but we know it comes down to herbcide only real to kill alot like nutsedge. Crabgrass Dallas weed. But what about the lime we put don.does that help neutralized chemicals as well.
Always have your soil tested before adding anything. My state offers soil testing for $25 thru University's Agriculture department. You can waste a ton of time and money adding nutrients your yard may not even need... and in some cases, you may be making matters worse.
Do you have article links available ?
Start here. This outlines the process: thrivingyard.com/amend-clay-without-digging/
And this article covers the fertilizer considerations for clay soil: thrivingyard.com/best-clay-soil-lawn-fertilizer/
What is your tool attachment for deep core integration?
The tool is covered on this page: thrivingyard.com/recommended/soil-compaction-products/
My soil test came back recommending 12-12-12, can I get that organic and if so can it burn the grass up? Also I just put sod down, how often should I use the fertilizer a year?
Soil tests should give you an organic matter percentage to let you know if you need soil amendments to improve the fertility of your lawn. I use Logan's testing in Ohio. $25 per test, which covers everything related to lawn care. My soil was lacking in the Spring too. I just used Starter Fert, although I am not using Scotts anymore. I use Lesco. Better bang for the buck.
@@starpartyguy5605 thanks brother
After years of wasting $ the only thing that’s going to improve a hard clay is mechanical aeration of some type. Don’t waste your time spraying some funky concoction and expect soil aggregation at depth . It’s not going to happen.
Even core aeration with hollow tines isn’t the magic bullet because it’s impossible to get rid of compaction at depth.
What helps is core aeration along with top dressing with compost to introduce carbon into the soil profile.
Humic acid helps because it is. Good way to get organic material over a large area.
It’s not a quick fix and you have to invest at least 5 years of fall aeration and compost applications to see any meaningful benefit but when the worms start showing up it definitely helps.
Look at the actual scientific peer reviewed data. Don’t waste the effort on gimmicks.
You need to watch my other videos. You are 99% on point with my current recommended practices.
What about Milorganite?
Any suggestion for aeration alternative? I couldn't even move the machine when I tried. It's so heavy.
Is it a gas powered one or the type you pull behind a mower?
If a core aerator isn’t an option I would still encourage the deep soil integration method if you able to do that. Tell me your situation Becky,
@@thrivingyard I think it was one of those commercial grade ones. My neighbors and I put our money together to rent one for all of us to use. I've had two failed aeration attempts. I still have more weeds than grass unfortunately. I'm in NC with Bermuda grass and rock and clay underneath.
Well the clay we can work with but the rock can be extremely challenging.
I’d like for you to be able to aggregate the soil at least 3 inches or so to be able to incorporate some organic matter.
If you are unable to penetrate the soil even that deep then you may need to focus on a topsoil only approach. Impossible for me to say without seeing it but if the ground is so hard from rock that a commercial aerator can’t aggregate it that may be your only option.
It may be worth contacting your local county extension office. They likely have better recommendations as they’ll be familiar with the region and soil qualities.
@@thrivingyard will do. Thk u for taking time to respond.
I knew it ...I knew ...I knew it. My neighbor has done this. And that side is ruined and my yard floods like never before. My neighbor killed all her grass in the backyard so she does not have to mow. Ugh. Now I have to fix this
Check out John and Bob's as well. They are a big proponent of healthy soils and how to take care of the soil so that it takes care of everything else. What's you take on their supplements?
Haven’t tried their products but a fan of their philosophy. I may test them out this summer
great video thanks
Thank you!
Another great video sir, love it.
By the way, following your advices last time had a massive positive pay off, thanks a lot.
I'm so glad!
Like you do in one of your video, I'm now as well very excited to inspect my garden in the morning haha!
I have more ants hills and their colors are getting better and better (darker )
There's still work to do though, and it's all about the grind and patience as you well said.
Got a question : what do you think about humic acid? I did use some.
And what do you use to get rid of those fire ants ?
Thanks for your nice work,
Patrick.
Hey Patrick, sorry I didn't see this earlier. I'm a big fan of Humic acid. It is essentially the end result of decomposition.
And those fire ants, uhg. I usually use Amdro but I'm careful to only spot treat around the ant beds.
Scotts natural lawn fertilizer, Turf Nurture, Sunday Lawn Care
The soil of a man's heart is stonier.
True enough. Wouldn't be surprised if this may play a part in the destruction of the bee population.