Hi Bruce, yes im still here. Im glad you wrote me. Im still on, i got a bit busy lately with my family through the pandemic but i plan to be a bit more active on youtube this fall. cheers Jonathan
I bought a brand new beginner mandolin and couldn’t figure out why the higher I played up the fretboard, sharper the notes seemed to run! Your video was extremely helpful and I have a much better understanding of my instrument! Thank you!
Hi Lyndsey, I'm glad I could help. You could actually check and remove the bridge and make sure they are no plastic paper under it. Usually mandolins are shipped from Asia with a protector under the bridge. You need to remove it unless it was done by the person who sold it to you. Cheers Jonathan
My father went out to find me an electric guitar, came back with a mandolin and said “good enough”.. it’s hard to learn brain stew on mandolin but I’m getting there
I got a beautiful neapolitan mandolin from my wife's grandfather , with a bunch of new strings (from the sixties probably) ! But man, the set up did not went like planned ! It can really be a little nightmare ! This video will definitely help me to reach a satisfying set up (the best of its kind i've seen) ! Thanks!
Thanks for your comment @5amJones, I'm happy I could help you. Sometimes people who are new to this find it scary when they see me pull and move their bridge. But this part actually moves a lot more than we think. Humidity in string vibration. Once in a while, I'll adjust it to keep the higher notes in tune. Best luck Jonathan
Very helpful info for a long-time guitarist to tuning and setting intonation on a mandolin. Greatly appreciate your time to post this lesson. (Moving a bridge to get a well-tempered scale throughout the fret board is strange for a guitarist!)
Jonathan you have provided many good ideas for the mandolin player to get that best sound. I just did a neck reset to get my strings closer but still had to do the bridge. I really like how you showed in your video how to use paper under the bridge showing open space. Great idea as well as your explanation of the 1/2 divide intonation. Thank you
I've been playing mandolin--and changing my own strings--for about 20 years now, but after you hear what I'm about to say, you're gonna think, "You must not be too good!" LOL. (And I'm not.) Anyway, I've NEVER known exactly where the bridge is supposed to be positioned, but now I do thanks to you!! Thank you!
This was a very helpful video. I've got some intonation problems on a new mandolin and this video should help me get it figured out. Great job Jonathan.
Hello from Arizona! I'm Austin Belanger! I am a noob to Mandolin and thank you for the information. My factory mandolin has been a bit off on the 7th fret and it is driving me nuts while trying to learn cords! :) Have a great one!
I tape sandpaper to the top of the mandolin in the area of where the bridge sits and then run the bridge back and forth to sand it to the shape of the mandolin top. Perfect fit every time. Violin makers do the same thing with violin bridge feet.
@@mandomontreal I have an old Harmony mandolin which I played back in the 70's and laid down when I got married. Now I dug it out and have started to pick a little on it but it needs some work to get it back in shape. It stayed in the closet for 50 years. I will continue to view your information. Thank you.
Hi there again. Did change the strings exactly as shown in the above video. Thanks. The looping is important in order that the string doesn't slip. Didn't take the looping seriously until I watched this video. ;). Well. The most significant outcome was the intonation. I didn't had to file or rub the bridge as it looked pretty well rested on the body. However, after loading all the strings and setting them in tune I realized that intonation could have been better. So loosened all the strings and played by moving the bridge very minutely to and fro to check the sound on open and 12th fret. And got satisfying sound at one instant. Then tuned all the 8 strings as needed to EADG and it really played well. Thanks to your step by step demo. Have a query though. I did read sometime back that there should be at least 3 turns of each string on each tuning post (the metal stub that holds the string) and all these should be placed as much lower as possible. This helps in avoiding the rattling. As of now, am not getting any rattling sound, but I think with still proper looping and the right slack, it is possible to achieve lowering down the turns on the stab. Any comments? Thanks again in advance. From Pune city, India
Hi Shreepad Yes there should be at least 3 turns of each string all these should be placed as much lower as possible turning downwards. All this should help to keep your mandolin in tune. Maybe it's not perfect the first time you do it. Don't worry too much about this you'll get it better and straight with practice and become a pro in no time. Cheers
@@mandomontreal Absolutely...Did 'break' a string (E) two days back...So had to change the whole bunch again...But could do it better than the earlier attempt...Yeah...It's bit awkward in the beginning but gets improved gradually...thanks
Im glad I could help! Check good if the bridge he's well set. Sometimes inexpensive mandolins have some residue from the shipping stuck under the bridge. Jonathan
Hey Andrew, Im really happy this could help! It really helps too when you change strings, I usually run a quick set up and sometimes reposition my bridge because it does move over time. :)
Hi Majik53, thanks for posting! Mandolins can always be improved. Changing some parts can help a lot too! Great to hear you got started playing mando. Cheers Jonathan
Thank you Jonathan! Excellent video extremely helpful. By the way I love your city of Montreal and of course Canada. Such wonderful neighbors to our north.Stay well, Dan from Los Angeles
Thank you, Jonathan, your video is very helpful and I now have it in my favourites. I put new strings on my mandolin and have tuned it, thanks to your advice. Best wishes to Mando Montreal :)
Thank you. I thought that it would be pretty much like setting the intonation on my violin and it was/is so I was happy with your concise, no nonsense approach. Ten minutes to satisfy me that I was going to approach this task properly. Thanks again from Australia.
I'm an intermediate guitar player, and just received an inexpensive mandolin for a xmas gift. It has some structural issues, one tuner is very loose, another very tight -- but it plays in tune most of the time, and the action is a little high, but passable. I checked the level of the fretboard with a good steel ruler, and its not bowed or arched out of line. I know of a luthier supply store online that has those kind of parts, I'll replace the tuners and maybe the bridge for better quality ones when I can afford to. I love this instrument! (I'm driving my roommate batty with all the practicing, hehehe) The rosewood bridge is too high, but the nut seems to be the correct height. Thank you for your bridge sanding techniques and tips! I'll be able to limp it along until I can upgrade it a little later in the new year. Subbed and shared!
You do a good job explaining things can you explain the two that sound rods I guess the threaded portion of the bridge if it should be at an angle or be flat
Very informative how to setup a mandolin. Thanks for sharing. I just bought a cheaper mandolin because I'm not sure if I can play & like it. I played ukelele on my younger age & still playing it. I shifted to guitar when I was a teenager. I'm learning a little bit of setting up the guitar. Jonathan do you think I will learn how to play the mandolin?
Hi Nate 1992 Thanks for writing! Playing the mandolin is not so difficult and its just one fretted instrument. Good luck on your learning. You can check my other videos i give some tips for beginners and intermediate players. Cheers
Hi @marccrowell9598 thanks for commenting, this trick actually works pretty well, you could also adjust bridge height. I know some luthier adjust intonation with a ruler, but it always feels better to me when I do it by ear. There is a sweet spot for each instrument. Jonathan
Hey Craig, Thanks for the reply. Usually replacing the bridge or the top part of it can be the solution. This usually requires some luthier job tho unless you are qualified. Sometimes also the neck joint is the problem, a bigger problem.. especially on old mandolins, lack of strength at this joint makes the whole mandolin fingerboard to curve down around the 12 fret. This problem is often unsolvable (or very expensive repair).
What should be the thickness of the plectrum for a general fun play? We get it in a variety of thicknesses...0.81 mm, 0.96 mm etc...I found the thinner one i.e 0.81 mm better in the sense it delivers a slightly louder sound...Was amazed to discover this... Would be glad to hear your expert comment here...Thanks for the above useful video about intonation. I have recently bought a Harley Benton Mandolin that has really a good sound ... The only down it has is the smaller tuning pegs, that strain the fingers too much while tuning. I had an old Hobmer make that had very comfortably fitting tuning pegs...Anyways... Shreepad, Pune city, India
Thanks again Shreepad Gandhi for the comment. Pick thickness is a big topic and a personal choice. It has to do also with the style you play and the right hand technique. Personally, I tend to feel that thick picks +/- 1.5mm on the mandolin do create a tik-tik plastic sound and that's why I'm not a fan. On the other hands, light picks +/- 0.60mm have a dull and thin sound. You need to hold them very close to the tip to make them sound good. Before i used Nylon Dunlop 0.88mm but now I switched to 0.73mm over time with practice. I feel softer picks play faster. (less resistance but less sound) The best is to have 2 picks depending on the style of piece you play and also good for learning how to make different picks sound good. Best Jonathan
Hi Jonathan... Nice to see your video one more time again today... The Harley Benton newly bought in Jan-21 has started giving out off notes...I mean not playing the sound they used to play when the instrument was new...I.e sharper or flatter at times...And harder on the fingers too...Maybe I need to lower the bridge...Fortunately it has 2 disk type screws to lower or raise the wooden bridge strip ... Also, i used the mandolin with the strings that came fitted with my model... Am going to change the strings today or tomorrow and shall be following all the steps from this your video for the intonation...Hopefully it should be alright after a while...Let's see... . One more question : I do have an electric guitar too that needs string replacement now...Can I use the same way to loop a string showed by you above here for the mandolin? Thanks again... Pune city, India
Hi Shreepad, thanks again for writing to me. It's a good idea to change the factory strings on a new mandolin. Sometimes the change feels a bit dramatic but after you set it up and play it for a couple of days, it should sound better. Check for the right string gauge, since a lighter string tension (10-34) is a bit easier to play and set up (specially for the low G). Concerning electric mandolin, I'm setting up my strings the same way on all my instruments. The basic rule is to lock the string first and then roll it towards the centre of the neck. 2-3 full turns around the tuner should be enough since you don't want the string to roll over itself. I usually put a bit more turns for the E string and maybe the A. Try to have the string rolled straight and not overlapping itself. It's a bit difficult at the beginning because you need to hold the string and roll the tuner at the same time with both hands. With practice it will be easier! good luck Jonathan
I just wasted a weekend frustrating myself not understanding the importance of the bridge position. All I wanted to do is replace my mando with new strings. When the bridge fell off I simply put it back where I thought I looked best not realizing the sound, harmonics are all impacted. It would not play scales. Now I know what I did wrong!
Great video Jonathan , I was wondering if you have any tips on tuning and taking care of a banjolin , its the same tuning and it has the same amount of strings, or if anyone reading has one? the tuning pegs are so tight and I cant find someone to fix this.
Hi Tessa, Thanks for you message. Good luck on your Banjoline. Most of the banjolines i have seem were in pretty bad condition.. and unplayable. I cannot say for yours. A good Luck is that these instruments are pretty straightforward built and sometimes fixable. Usually come with tuners not pegs. If tuners are stuck, probably they would need to be removed, cleaned or changed. The banjo skin has to be in a fairly good condition and tensed a bit like a small drum. Again maybe it has to be tuned like a drum or changed if possible. The bridge is movable and sits on the skin. You can set the intonation the same way showed in the video. If the banjo is old, maybe it needs some kind of neck reset to bring the string action down. I would probably seek for professional help in your area. Its also possible that its not fixable or does not worth it. You can send me a couple of pictures at info@mandomontreal.com maybe i can check the overall condition. Good luck! Jonathan
Hi thanks for the tips they are very helpful. I just have one question. I adjusted my bride so the 12th fret is the same a open and the 7th fret sounds good just like you said. However the bride looks very wonky, one end is much higher then the other. Is that normal?
Hi Ailenror Sheir, thanks for your message. The bridge should be parallel to the frets and perpendicular to the fretboard. It's distance from the fretboard depends on the intonation. On some mandolins you can adjust height with the screws. The bridge is moveable and you can remove it. Check if you have any cracks or anything like shipping plastic stuck under.. Sometimes you can even flip the bottom part keeping the top part align with the string grooves and it can help. Jonathan
Hi Anantha, The mandolin behind me is a Neapolitan Mandola or sometimes called tenor mandolin. tuned GDAE 1 octave lower to the mandolin. Sorry it is not for sale.
A Paracha Lone Star being set up with a solid fixed (no thumbwheels) bridge from Elderly. Is there a standard action? A TH-cam video says Classical guitar standard is 3.8 mm from top of 12th fret to bottom of string for the top low pitch (6) string and 2.8 for the bottom (1). Do comparable measurements exist for mandolins? EDIT: Oh, I found lots of info on this so please don't bother yourself with my question.
@@mandomontreal Merci! A l"instant il est 1.9 mm, mais le utilisateur pourrait ajouter en bas une bande de 1/64 Finnish birch plywood que j'ai. Mandolin Café dit 1.98, Cedar Mountain 3.84 - 4.16, et une autre source E 1.59, G 2.38. EDIT: Oops. On aurait besoin 1/32 pour avoir 1/64 de plus au douzième,faisant 2.5 mm tout ensemble. Pardon.
Thanks gentleman...I face a problem that the notes in first fret sound extra sharp... For example, the E string open play well...Now first fret should play F...It actually sounds more sharper than F...And this is true for all other strings...Like A string in first fret sounds more than A#...It's awkward while playing a song...Doesn't sound good...Can you advise ? Many thanks in advance...
Hi Shreepad, maybe the nut is misplaced or the string action is set very high. Check if you have a "zero fret" setup on your mandolin, then maybe the string is floating over this zero fret (you can check if a small paper goes between the string and the zero fret. If its the case, nut groves have to be filed down. The string should rest on the zero fret permanently. Ultimately, check at least that you can play correctly 5th fret, C, G, D, A... If its all wrong then you need to seek some help with a luthier or guitar repair. Maybe the mandolin has a problem too. Good luck and let me know how you fix this. Jonathan
Thank you for the help through your tutorial. My a & e string are just one increment Sharp on my tuner. Which direction should I move the bridge, or is that acceptable?
I would not bother for small details on some strings... But i like to have the E well set. This is where i play high melodies and it has to be in tune. When you press the 12th fret, if its too sharp, it means the distance between the 12th fret and the bridge is too short. Pull it back a bit toward the tail piece.
How much distance should there be between the strings on about the 18th. fret?? Mine seems to be hard to push down so I am thinking the bridge may need to be adjusted. Thanks
Hi Chris, there are a few things to consider but I would say +/- 0.05 inch height action at the 12th fret is ok. Typically G string should be higher than the E string. It will also depend if your fretboard is straight or not.. That is why having a good fret levelling is recommended before setting up the action. Check some tips here on this blog: reverb.com/news/7-tips-for-the-perfect-mandolin-setup#:~:text=For%20most%20of%20my%20customers,have%20string%20buzz%2C%20raise%20it.
@@mandomontreal .05 huh. LOL I measured mine and it is almost 1/4 of an inch off the board. I intend to take it to a local music shop to see if they can do something with it to lower the strings and make it right. I do not want to try to do any tinkering with the fret board to adjust it so I will let them do what they can to make it playable. Thanks a bunch. You have been most helpful.
@@chrisbaker528 Yes, probably best is to have it inspected by a luthier, maybe your fretboard is curved, neck lose or something. Mandolin issues... yes lets hope you can fix it! Cheers and let me know info@mandomontreal.com
Hi Mo Hin, I never really remove all strings unless im doing a bit setup job. I change the strings one by one so the bridge stays. Putting only 4 (no pairs) strings also really helps.
Hey man! Good job. Question: Mes petites cordes de mi sont tout le temps en train de péter juste quand j'arrive à la bonne note, après s'être loussé une couple de fois subitement. Les engrenages des clés ne bougent pas quand ça lousse d'un coup sec. J'avoue que ça me laisse pantois. Je ne comprend pas le phénomène. As-tu un truc et/ou une explication?? (même type de mando que sur ton vidéo).
Salut thuyaoccidental. C'est probable que ta corde de mi soit mal attachée sur la clé. Il faut faire un bon 5-6 tours minimum sur la petite corde en plus de la barrer en tournant sur elle même. Si ta corde casse, c'est quelle est vieille ou tu n'utilises pas la bonne grosseur de corde ou tu n'accordes pas la bonne note. Assures-toi de bien enrouler la corde sur les bonne clé et dans le bon sens. Sinon aussi p-être que ton pont est endommagé mais peu probable. En espérant avoir pu t'aider et bonne chance!
@@mandomontreal : Merci pour la réponse. Après recherche, il semble que ce soit à cause que le chevalet qui coinçait la corde. On m'a conseillé de limer le creux et d'y gratter de la mine de crayon à mine pour qu'elle glisse mieux.
Hi Neville, i have been using a Chromatic KORG CA-30 for years. Sometimes i use clip-on tuners but rarely because they vibrate and make rattle noise and find it annoying. Cheers!
Bonjour Abdel, Mon studio est situé au centre-ville de Montréal, métro Berri-UQAM. Écrivez moi en privé à info@mandomontreal.com et on regarde ce qui est possible de faire avec votre instrument. Je ne suis pas luthier mais je peux vous recommander des endroits. Jonathan
Mmm its difficult to say. If its a 2 parts bridge, try switching the bottom piece the other way and maybe it works. Otherwise you will have to change the part. Normally it sits perpendicular to the strings. Jonathan
Hi William Thanks for your message. Yes i got this 70' YBA Traynor head thats similar to the Fender Bassman or Marshall Plexi circuit. Really nice and powerful sound. I hand made the cab pine wood with 1 speaker 8ohm greenback. It's for sale! info@mandomontreal.com
When is it necesary to twist the bridge? So afterwards the bridge is not "|" but "/", extremely spoken. When this is necesary, can it be fixed another way?
Brimborium this is a really good question. Mandolin bridges are designed to be set perfectly perpendicular to the strings. ( | ) of course this is most of the time not possible. Especially if you own a older or cheaper instrument. What I'm trying to do with these instruments is to take the best of both worlds. I don't want to give too much angle to the bridge because this is incorrect.( /) I will sometimes set the intonation for the fifth seventh or third fret to sound all right, leaving the open G a little lower than its supposed. The best trick I can give is setup only 4 strings no pairs. Move the bridge around play with the mandolin try to see where it fits and check with the tuner to get the best opportunity for intonation. You will see at one point that the mandolin itself resonates better. Then when you're satisfied put the other four strings left. Good luck.
Brimborium the other way would be to have a custom made compensated bridge. But again the problem might come from the neck that is not straight or some frets that are misplaced. This is a luthier topic and beyond my knowledge. When I have these kinds of problems with instruments I simply bring them to the luthier shop. It's good that you know what to expect in terms of repairs because it can get costly.
I hope you are still on here. I found you 5 years later. I own three mandolins but I am mainly a guitar player, love the mandolin!
Hi Bruce, yes im still here. Im glad you wrote me. Im still on, i got a bit busy lately with my family through the pandemic but i plan to be a bit more active on youtube this fall. cheers Jonathan
Finally guy, who show everything, what a lot od people want to know😁😉
Thanks for your comment Jakub!
I bought a brand new beginner mandolin and couldn’t figure out why the higher I played up the fretboard, sharper the notes seemed to run! Your video was extremely helpful and I have a much better understanding of my instrument! Thank you!
Hi Lyndsey, I'm glad I could help. You could actually check and remove the bridge and make sure they are no plastic paper under it. Usually mandolins are shipped from Asia with a protector under the bridge. You need to remove it unless it was done by the person who sold it to you. Cheers Jonathan
This was very helpful. You explained it so thoroughly, yet easy to understand and follow. Thanks man.
Hi jeremy, Im glad i was able to help you improve with your mandolin. Jonathan
Remarkable !!! This video of you is a complete course about taking the best out of an instrument in itself !!! Thanks a lot !!!
Thanks for your comment!
My father went out to find me an electric guitar, came back with a mandolin and said “good enough”.. it’s hard to learn brain stew on mandolin but I’m getting there
Im glad your father started you on the mandolin!! Go ahead and play some Greenday you can do it man! Am-G-F#m-F-E
😂👍
I got a beautiful neapolitan mandolin from my wife's grandfather , with a bunch of new strings (from the sixties probably) ! But man, the set up did not went like planned ! It can really be a little nightmare ! This video will definitely help me to reach a satisfying set up (the best of its kind i've seen) ! Thanks!
Oh boy, thank you thank you thank you! Been a real struggle to tune my newly acquired mandolin today. This has been a huge help.
Thanks for your comment @5amJones, I'm happy I could help you. Sometimes people who are new to this find it scary when they see me pull and move their bridge. But this part actually moves a lot more than we think. Humidity in string vibration. Once in a while, I'll adjust it to keep the higher notes in tune. Best luck Jonathan
Very helpful info for a long-time guitarist to tuning and setting intonation on a mandolin. Greatly appreciate your time to post this lesson. (Moving a bridge to get a well-tempered scale throughout the fret board is strange for a guitarist!)
Hi David, Thanks for your comment!
Perfect explanation, thank you.
Thanks, this was both helpful and simple!
Thanks for your comment @moddimusikk Im happy i could help
Jonathan you have provided many good ideas for the mandolin player to get that best sound. I just did a neck reset to get my strings closer but still had to do the bridge. I really like how you showed in your video how to use paper under the bridge showing open space. Great idea as well as your explanation of the 1/2 divide intonation. Thank you
I've been playing mandolin--and changing my own strings--for about 20 years now, but after you hear what I'm about to say, you're gonna think, "You must not be too good!" LOL. (And I'm not.) Anyway, I've NEVER known exactly where the bridge is supposed to be positioned, but now I do thanks to you!! Thank you!
Hi Glenn B, Thanks for your comment! Yes and now you know !
Your style of explaining was really useful, Thanks brother!
This was a very helpful video. I've got some intonation problems on a new mandolin and this video should help me get it figured out. Great job Jonathan.
Thanks! Very helpful advises! 2 weeks ago I started to learn Mandoline. Greetings from Germany!
Thanks and happy to help!
Nice job on the video Jonathan.
This is the best video I've actually seen on this topic, super helpful. Thank you! :)
Thanks for your comment. Im happy i could help!
Moved the bridge back a little and now I'm in! Thanks!
Great! im glad it helped. Thanks for watching
Many thanks Sir! I appreciate your clear and concise instructions.
No problems @Lapboard and that was fun to do! Jonathan
Hello from Arizona! I'm Austin Belanger! I am a noob to Mandolin and thank you for the information. My factory mandolin has been a bit off on the 7th fret and it is driving me nuts while trying to learn cords! :) Have a great one!
Hi Austin, Thanks for your comment
, check for the bridge height & adjustment. You can probably move the bridge a bit to set it correct. Jonathan
I tape sandpaper to the top of the mandolin in the area of where the bridge sits and then run the bridge back and forth to sand it to the shape of the mandolin top. Perfect fit every time. Violin makers do the same thing with violin bridge feet.
Thank for sharing your experience. It's pretty easy to do it yourself. And a good luthier is a dam good option too!! Now you know what they do!
Uhhh, that's exactly what Jonathan did in this video.
what grade sandpaper do you use?
Thank you. Jonathan I learned a lot from this little video. Thanks.
Hi Chris Thanks for your comment. Tuning up your instrument is one of my best tip. I m glad it helps
@@mandomontreal I have an old Harmony mandolin which I played back in the 70's and laid down when I got married. Now I dug it out and have started to pick a little on it but it needs some work to get it back in shape. It stayed in the closet for 50 years. I will continue to view your information. Thank you.
@@chrisbaker528 good decision! Cheers!
Very instructive. Thank you for the time you've spent in making this video. It's very helpful for me.
Hi Carlos, Thanks for watching. Im glad i could help
Thanks Johnathan, very informative.
Hi Michael, i'm glad i could help. Jonathan
Hi there again.
Did change the strings exactly as shown in the above video. Thanks. The looping is important in order that the string doesn't slip. Didn't take the looping seriously until I watched this video. ;). Well. The most significant outcome was the intonation. I didn't had to file or rub the bridge as it looked pretty well rested on the body. However, after loading all the strings and setting them in tune I realized that intonation could have been better. So loosened all the strings and played by moving the bridge very minutely to and fro to check the sound on open and 12th fret. And got satisfying sound at one instant. Then tuned all the 8 strings as needed to EADG and it really played well. Thanks to your step by step demo.
Have a query though. I did read sometime back that there should be at least 3 turns of each string on each tuning post (the metal stub that holds the string) and all these should be placed as much lower as possible. This helps in avoiding the rattling. As of now, am not getting any rattling sound, but I think with still proper looping and the right slack, it is possible to achieve lowering down the turns on the stab. Any comments? Thanks again in advance. From Pune city, India
Hi Shreepad Yes there should be at least 3 turns of each string all these should be placed as much lower as possible turning downwards. All this should help to keep your mandolin in tune. Maybe it's not perfect the first time you do it. Don't worry too much about this you'll get it better and straight with practice and become a pro in no time. Cheers
@@mandomontreal
Absolutely...Did 'break' a string (E) two days back...So had to change the whole bunch again...But could do it better than the earlier attempt...Yeah...It's bit awkward in the beginning but gets improved gradually...thanks
Thank you so much!! Got an inexpensive mandolin for learning but there is definitely a need to set it up nicely. Thanks for sharing this knowledge!!
Im glad I could help! Check good if the bridge he's well set. Sometimes inexpensive mandolins have some residue from the shipping stuck under the bridge. Jonathan
Thank you, Jonathan! That was a big help.
Thanks Milton, im glad it helped!
Hello from Nova Scotia, merci beaucoup for the video, I just bought my first mandolin and this was very helpful.
Thankyou. This was super helpful and my mandolin sounds so much better and i feel so much wiser. cheers again.
Hey Andrew, Im really happy this could help! It really helps too when you change strings, I usually run a quick set up and sometimes reposition my bridge because it does move over time. :)
Well done sir ! Concise , helpful and understandable
⭐️👏👏🎼🎼🎼🎼🎼🎼🎼
Hi Majik53, thanks for posting! Mandolins can always be improved. Changing some parts can help a lot too! Great to hear you got started playing mando. Cheers Jonathan
Thank you Jonathan! Excellent video extremely helpful. By the way I love your city of Montreal and of course Canada. Such wonderful neighbors to our north.Stay well, Dan from Los Angeles
Hi Daniel, Always a pleasure to held and to keep people in tune! I appreciate your comment, i wish to come more often to visit you fellow neighbors!
Thank you, Jonathan, your video is very helpful and I now have it in my favourites. I put new strings on my mandolin and have tuned it, thanks to your advice. Best wishes to Mando Montreal :)
Just got a rogue mandolin for $30 and am excited to start learning to play. But man it needs a setup first. Thanks for the video!
Hi GG, Good news you are starting the mandolin! I hope you can set this mando good. :)
You have a gift my friend,I've learned a thing or four in this video,I will follow you,thanks.
Thanks Richard! keep following I'll be posting new stuff soon. Best Jonathan
This was incredibly helpful
Thanks Jonathan, really good video. Take care.
Thank you. I thought that it would be pretty much like setting the intonation on my violin and it was/is so I was happy with your concise, no nonsense approach. Ten minutes to satisfy me that I was going to approach this task properly. Thanks again from Australia.
Excellent, thank you!
Pas mal bonne cette vidéo, ça mérite un pouce en l'air.
Merci pour ton message Robert
Thanks Johnathan thr bridge is hard to mess eith thanks for your knowledge bro 😎🇱🇷
Thanks Roger, bridge setup is the best tip to know., most you can do yourself. Cheers
I'm an intermediate guitar player, and just received an inexpensive mandolin for a xmas gift. It has some structural issues, one tuner is very loose, another very tight -- but it plays in tune most of the time, and the action is a little high, but passable. I checked the level of the fretboard with a good steel ruler, and its not bowed or arched out of line. I know of a luthier supply store online that has those kind of parts, I'll replace the tuners and maybe the bridge for better quality ones when I can afford to.
I love this instrument! (I'm driving my roommate batty with all the practicing, hehehe)
The rosewood bridge is too high, but the nut seems to be the correct height. Thank you for your bridge sanding techniques and tips! I'll be able to limp it along until I can upgrade it a little later in the new year.
Subbed and shared!
Thanx mate..Great playing!
Thanks Jonathan, this really helped me set up my Mandolin
Good explanation, thanks, very helpful. Brgds, Brian (Denmark)
Merci pour l'astuce du montage des cordes, qui fait bien gagner du temps, et pour les instructions très claires sur le tuning , Thank you very much
thanks, great and informative video.
That lightens it up a lot. Thank you..✌️
Thanks for your comment Neonerbse, Im so glad it helps!
Thanks man. I learned a lot.
Super explications mon chum...merci
Salut B#, merci pour ton commentaire, je veux refaire la vidéo en français!
Amazing! Love & thanks!
Subbed, will be picking up a mandolin soon.
Thanks from New Zealand!
You do a good job explaining things can you explain the two that sound rods I guess the threaded portion of the bridge if it should be at an angle or be flat
Very informative how to setup a mandolin. Thanks for sharing. I just bought a cheaper mandolin because I'm not sure if I can play & like it. I played ukelele on my younger age & still playing it. I shifted to guitar when I was a teenager. I'm learning a little bit of setting up the guitar. Jonathan do you think I will learn how to play the mandolin?
Hi Nate 1992 Thanks for writing! Playing the mandolin is not so difficult and its just one fretted instrument. Good luck on your learning. You can check my other videos i give some tips for beginners and intermediate players. Cheers
Thank you! Nice tips!!
Merci beaucoup! So helpful and clear.
Thanks a lot for the instruction! Very informative.
Thanks for the tip of adjusting intonation with only four strings. Bout to restring a nice mandolin that needs some care.
Hi @marccrowell9598 thanks for commenting, this trick actually works pretty well, you could also adjust bridge height. I know some luthier adjust intonation with a ruler, but it always feels better to me when I do it by ear. There is a sweet spot for each instrument. Jonathan
You are a Gladiator !!!! Thanks !!!!
Super helpful, thank you my man!
Great advice, thank you very much 👍.
Thanks, very helpful, dodgy bridge was the problem here too
Hey Craig, Thanks for the reply. Usually replacing the bridge or the top part of it can be the solution. This usually requires some luthier job tho unless you are qualified. Sometimes also the neck joint is the problem, a bigger problem.. especially on old mandolins, lack of strength at this joint makes the whole mandolin fingerboard to curve down around the 12 fret. This problem is often unsolvable (or very expensive repair).
Thank you! This video showed me I just suck!
Lol all jokes aside thank you
Thanks . Maybe you could show us more tips and chords
Hi Lain Thanks for you comment. Check my website is full of tips www.mandomontreal.com/en/tips-and-tricks
THANKS FOR SHARING VALUABLE INFORMATION
What should be the thickness of the plectrum for a general fun play? We get it in a variety of thicknesses...0.81 mm, 0.96 mm etc...I found the thinner one i.e 0.81 mm better in the sense it delivers a slightly louder sound...Was amazed to discover this...
Would be glad to hear your expert comment here...Thanks for the above useful video about intonation. I have recently bought a Harley Benton Mandolin that has really a good sound ... The only down it has is the smaller tuning pegs, that strain the fingers too much while tuning. I had an old Hobmer make that had very comfortably fitting tuning pegs...Anyways...
Shreepad, Pune city, India
Thanks again Shreepad Gandhi for the comment. Pick thickness is a big topic and a personal choice. It has to do also with the style you play and the right hand technique. Personally, I tend to feel that thick picks +/- 1.5mm on the mandolin do create a tik-tik plastic sound and that's why I'm not a fan. On the other hands, light picks +/- 0.60mm have a dull and thin sound. You need to hold them very close to the tip to make them sound good. Before i used Nylon Dunlop 0.88mm but now I switched to 0.73mm over time with practice. I feel softer picks play faster. (less resistance but less sound) The best is to have 2 picks depending on the style of piece you play and also good for learning how to make different picks sound good. Best Jonathan
I use a 1.4 mm thick and it is not so sharp at the point. Bevel the edges so they will glide better over the strings.
Thank you for this useful video
Thanks Patrick. Its a pleasure to help mando players.
Some good tips. Thank you.
super
super clair, ma mandoline sonne A1. Merci pour le vidéo!
Merci Jean, content d'avoir pu t'aider
Hi Jonathan...
Nice to see your video one more time again today...
The Harley Benton newly bought in Jan-21 has started giving out off notes...I mean not playing the sound they used to play when the instrument was new...I.e sharper or flatter at times...And harder on the fingers too...Maybe I need to lower the bridge...Fortunately it has 2 disk type screws to lower or raise the wooden bridge strip ...
Also, i used the mandolin with the strings that came fitted with my model...
Am going to change the strings today or tomorrow and shall be following all the steps from this your video for the intonation...Hopefully it should be alright after a while...Let's see...
.
One more question : I do have an electric guitar too that needs string replacement now...Can I use the same way to loop a string showed by you above here for the mandolin?
Thanks again...
Pune city, India
Hi Shreepad, thanks again for writing to me. It's a good idea to change the factory strings on a new mandolin. Sometimes the change feels a bit dramatic but after you set it up and play it for a couple of days, it should sound better. Check for the right string gauge, since a lighter string tension (10-34) is a bit easier to play and set up (specially for the low G). Concerning electric mandolin, I'm setting up my strings the same way on all my instruments. The basic rule is to lock the string first and then roll it towards the centre of the neck. 2-3 full turns around the tuner should be enough since you don't want the string to roll over itself. I usually put a bit more turns for the E string and maybe the A. Try to have the string rolled straight and not overlapping itself. It's a bit difficult at the beginning because you need to hold the string and roll the tuner at the same time with both hands. With practice it will be easier! good luck Jonathan
Thanks that WAS helpful!
Thanks Chris, Good luck on your playing!
I just wasted a weekend frustrating myself not understanding the importance of the bridge position. All I wanted to do is replace my mando with new strings. When the bridge fell off I simply put it back where I thought I looked best not realizing the sound, harmonics are all impacted. It would not play scales. Now I know what I did wrong!
Great video Jonathan , I was wondering if you have any tips on tuning and taking care of a banjolin , its the same tuning and it has the same amount of strings, or if anyone reading has one? the tuning pegs are so tight and I cant find someone to fix this.
Hi Tessa, Thanks for you message. Good luck on your Banjoline. Most of the banjolines i have seem were in pretty bad condition.. and unplayable. I cannot say for yours. A good Luck is that these instruments are pretty straightforward built and sometimes fixable. Usually come with tuners not pegs. If tuners are stuck, probably they would need to be removed, cleaned or changed. The banjo skin has to be in a fairly good condition and tensed a bit like a small drum. Again maybe it has to be tuned like a drum or changed if possible. The bridge is movable and sits on the skin. You can set the intonation the same way showed in the video. If the banjo is old, maybe it needs some kind of neck reset to bring the string action down. I would probably seek for professional help in your area. Its also possible that its not fixable or does not worth it. You can send me a couple of pictures at info@mandomontreal.com maybe i can check the overall condition. Good luck! Jonathan
perfecto! muchas gracias por el tutorial!
Hi thanks for the tips they are very helpful. I just have one question. I adjusted my bride so the 12th fret is the same a open and the 7th fret sounds good just like you said. However the bride looks very wonky, one end is much higher then the other. Is that normal?
Hi Ailenror Sheir, thanks for your message. The bridge should be parallel to the frets and perpendicular to the fretboard. It's distance from the fretboard depends on the intonation. On some mandolins you can adjust height with the screws. The bridge is moveable and you can remove it. Check if you have any cracks or anything like shipping plastic stuck under.. Sometimes you can even flip the bottom part keeping the top part align with the string grooves and it can help. Jonathan
Excellent video...THANK YOU!!
What is the price of the Mandolin ( Bean shaped ) hanged behind you,sir.
Thank you so much for your demo
Hi Anantha, The mandolin behind me is a Neapolitan Mandola or sometimes called tenor mandolin. tuned GDAE 1 octave lower to the mandolin. Sorry it is not for sale.
thanks very useful!
A Paracha Lone Star being set up with a solid fixed (no thumbwheels) bridge from Elderly. Is there a standard action? A TH-cam video says Classical guitar standard is 3.8 mm from top of 12th fret to bottom of string for the top low pitch (6) string and 2.8 for the bottom (1). Do comparable measurements exist for mandolins?
EDIT: Oh, I found lots of info on this so please don't bother yourself with my question.
Hi Doug, it should stick around 2.5 mm at the 12th fret, sometimes top strings can go a bit lower depending on you adjustment
@@mandomontreal Merci! A l"instant il est 1.9 mm, mais le utilisateur pourrait ajouter en bas une bande de 1/64 Finnish birch plywood que j'ai.
Mandolin Café dit 1.98, Cedar Mountain 3.84 - 4.16, et une autre source E 1.59, G 2.38.
EDIT: Oops. On aurait besoin 1/32 pour avoir 1/64 de plus au douzième,faisant 2.5 mm tout ensemble. Pardon.
Thanks gentleman...I face a problem that the notes in first fret sound extra sharp... For example, the E string open play well...Now first fret should play F...It actually sounds more sharper than F...And this is true for all other strings...Like A string in first fret sounds more than A#...It's awkward while playing a song...Doesn't sound good...Can you advise ?
Many thanks in advance...
Hi Shreepad, maybe the nut is misplaced or the string action is set very high. Check if you have a "zero fret" setup on your mandolin, then maybe the string is floating over this zero fret (you can check if a small paper goes between the string and the zero fret. If its the case, nut groves have to be filed down. The string should rest on the zero fret permanently. Ultimately, check at least that you can play correctly 5th fret, C, G, D, A... If its all wrong then you need to seek some help with a luthier or guitar repair. Maybe the mandolin has a problem too. Good luck and let me know how you fix this. Jonathan
@@mandomontreal
Got rid of that mandolin after buying a new one. Trying to master it now. Thanks
Thank you for the help through your tutorial. My a & e string are just one increment Sharp on my tuner. Which direction should I move the bridge, or is that acceptable?
I would not bother for small details on some strings... But i like to have the E well set. This is where i play high melodies and it has to be in tune. When you press the 12th fret, if its too sharp, it means the distance between the 12th fret and the bridge is too short. Pull it back a bit toward the tail piece.
How much distance should there be between the strings on about the 18th. fret?? Mine seems to be hard to push down so I am thinking the bridge may need to be adjusted. Thanks
Hi Chris, there are a few things to consider but I would say +/- 0.05 inch height action at the 12th fret is ok. Typically G string should be higher than the E string. It will also depend if your fretboard is straight or not.. That is why having a good fret levelling is recommended before setting up the action. Check some tips here on this blog:
reverb.com/news/7-tips-for-the-perfect-mandolin-setup#:~:text=For%20most%20of%20my%20customers,have%20string%20buzz%2C%20raise%20it.
@@mandomontreal .05 huh. LOL I measured mine and it is almost 1/4 of an inch off the board. I intend to take it to a local music shop to see if they can do something with it to lower the strings and make it right. I do not want to try to do any tinkering with the fret board to adjust it so I will let them do what they can to make it playable. Thanks a bunch. You have been most helpful.
@@chrisbaker528 Yes, probably best is to have it inspected by a luthier, maybe your fretboard is curved, neck lose or something. Mandolin issues... yes lets hope you can fix it! Cheers and let me know info@mandomontreal.com
How do you prefer to mark your bridge position if you have an unfixed bridge when you take the strings off?
Hi Mo Hin, I never really remove all strings unless im doing a bit setup job. I change the strings one by one so the bridge stays. Putting only 4 (no pairs) strings also really helps.
Thank you , a great explanation , much appreciated.
Hey man! Good job. Question: Mes petites cordes de mi sont tout le temps en train de péter juste quand j'arrive à la bonne note, après s'être loussé une couple de fois subitement. Les engrenages des clés ne bougent pas quand ça lousse d'un coup sec. J'avoue que ça me laisse pantois. Je ne comprend pas le phénomène. As-tu un truc et/ou une explication??
(même type de mando que sur ton vidéo).
Salut thuyaoccidental. C'est probable que ta corde de mi soit mal attachée sur la clé. Il faut faire un bon 5-6 tours minimum sur la petite corde en plus de la barrer en tournant sur elle même. Si ta corde casse, c'est quelle est vieille ou tu n'utilises pas la bonne grosseur de corde ou tu n'accordes pas la bonne note. Assures-toi de bien enrouler la corde sur les bonne clé et dans le bon sens. Sinon aussi p-être que ton pont est endommagé mais peu probable. En espérant avoir pu t'aider et bonne chance!
@@mandomontreal : Merci pour la réponse. Après recherche, il semble que ce soit à cause que le chevalet qui coinçait la corde. On m'a conseillé de limer le creux et d'y gratter de la mine de crayon à mine pour qu'elle glisse mieux.
Wondering what brand and model tuner you use
Hi Neville, i have been using a Chromatic KORG CA-30 for years. Sometimes i use clip-on tuners but rarely because they vibrate and make rattle noise and find it annoying. Cheers!
Bonjour,
Si vous etes a Montréal, Québec, je souhaite vous rencontrer pour ajuster ma mandoline.
Très belle video. Merci
Bonjour Abdel, Mon studio est situé au centre-ville de Montréal, métro Berri-UQAM. Écrivez moi en privé à info@mandomontreal.com et on regarde ce qui est possible de faire avec votre instrument. Je ne suis pas luthier mais je peux vous recommander des endroits. Jonathan
how can I get my bridge to angle slightly back towards the tailpiece...right now the bridge screws are angled a bit towards the neck
Mmm its difficult to say. If its a 2 parts bridge, try switching the bottom piece the other way and maybe it works. Otherwise you will have to change the part. Normally it sits perpendicular to the strings. Jonathan
MERCI!
CHEESE!!
Thanks man!
Forgot to mention that I see that nice amp. VIntage?
Hi William Thanks for your message. Yes i got this 70' YBA Traynor head thats similar to the Fender Bassman or Marshall Plexi circuit. Really nice and powerful sound. I hand made the cab pine wood with 1 speaker 8ohm greenback. It's for sale! info@mandomontreal.com
thanx!!
Great
en fait, il faut inverser la boucle sur les cordes A et E , exact ?
When is it necesary to twist the bridge? So afterwards the bridge is not "|" but "/", extremely spoken. When this is necesary, can it be fixed another way?
Brimborium this is a really good question. Mandolin bridges are designed to be set perfectly perpendicular to the strings. ( | ) of course this is most of the time not possible. Especially if you own a older or cheaper instrument. What I'm trying to do with these instruments is to take the best of both worlds. I don't want to give too much angle to the bridge because this is incorrect.( /) I will sometimes set the intonation for the fifth seventh or third fret to sound all right, leaving the open G a little lower than its supposed. The best trick I can give is setup only 4 strings no pairs. Move the bridge around play with the mandolin try to see where it fits and check with the tuner to get the best opportunity for intonation. You will see at one point that the mandolin itself resonates better. Then when you're satisfied put the other four strings left. Good luck.
Brimborium the other way would be to have a custom made compensated bridge. But again the problem might come from the neck that is not straight or some frets that are misplaced. This is a luthier topic and beyond my knowledge. When I have these kinds of problems with instruments I simply bring them to the luthier shop. It's good that you know what to expect in terms of repairs because it can get costly.
Are you located in ON, Canada?
Hi Devanshu Trivedi, I am located downtown Montreal Canada H2L 3K8
Wish, you were in Kitchener...Thanks in ne case.
Thanks.