It is Chevy/GM blue. Back in 53/54 Chevy called the 235 in the Corvettes Blue Flame specials and painted the engine blocks blue. I decided to follow suit on my Blue Flame special. As an aside, these 235's also came from the factory as grey or black.
This carb had a vacuum leak around the throttle shaft as evidenced by the rise in idle RPM when the Caleb cleaner was sprayed in that area. That is why the choke had to be partially closed for the engine to idle properly. Unfortunately worn throttle shaft housings are a common problem with these old Rochester model B carbs. The fix is to drill the housing out and install bushings. This carb will get that done eventually. I went to dual Carter Webbers which improved all around performance.
Thank you for this, I drive a 1960 Chevy Apache with a 235. I also really like the channel the old 6 cyls and gardening are definitely my kind of way to pass time.
The carbs on all these stove bolt engines can be a plethora of problems. The shaft will likely leak air. This can be normal. Power valve is on or off no tapered needle here. The accelerator pump and check ball is one pan in the ass. Float level is critcal.
That tube is connected to a vacuum gauge so I could monitor the intake vacuum during break in. The fluid is some gas that entered the tube from the carb/intake. Some vehicles include a "trap" in the vacuum line to keep that leaked gas from getting to the vacuum advance canister and any other vacuum devices. Thanks for watching
if you don't mind me asking. what year is that 235 engine? I have a 1961 235 with fenton exaust manifolds and I'm having trouble with putting on my linkage!! any advice would be greatly appreciated! thanks in advance.
My 235 is a 54. I also had problems with my linkage clearing my Fenton exhausts and dual carb intake. I used a coat hanger to mock up the linkage rod with the necessary bends to clear the manifolds then I purchased some 1/4" round stock (I think from Home Dep) and bent it to match the coat hanger and the ends of the stock linkage. It's been working great since. Good luck
So I see how you bent the throttle rod so doesn't hit the manifold I'm having a issue right as we speak it is it possible for you to give me a close up look on a what you did cause I have the same felton manifolds and my throttle line from the gas pedal to the carburetor is getting stuck in and doesn't allow to go up. Please help.
I've changed over to a dual carb setup but I did make some pics of this carb setup so I'll post links to them. This link is the OEM throttle shaft. photos.app.goo.gl/zLnXoWW1nPpGV8wc7 The next pic link shows the clothes hanger I used to bend a template to work around the manifolds. photos.app.goo.gl/YtQPm7edWYCfkFsL7 This pic link shows how I bent a piece of 1/4" round stock to match the clothes hanger template. I welded a cable clamp onto the new rod for the return spring. photos.app.goo.gl/T5kRxPZdT74so1ao9 This last pic link shows how it fit. photos.app.goo.gl/zCykzrbPv1nHvuiz8 I picked up the round stock rod at a local Tractor Supply. I used some heat to make the 90 degree bends but the minor bends didn't require heat. I decided not to bend the OEM rod as they don't make these parts anymore and are getting harder and harder to find. Good luck
My carb is overfuelling the plugs are very sooty and I get puffs of black crud out the exhaust at start up and then on gear changes. I found used a carb rebuild kit bought with the truck. I was planning on ultrasonic cleaning and a rebuild but not sure there is any point. Been offered a carb off a 235 is this jetted the same as the 216? Thanks Regards Chris
Is your carb a Rohester B? If so theres two possibilities causing your over rich condition. The floats are sticking open and/or have a hole in it which isn't allowing the float to close the inlet valve -or- the power piston is sticking which admits additional fuel into the venturi. Both can be corrected with a rebuild. You might also readjust the air/fuel ratio screw to get the best idle when at operating temp. re.carbs, the carb for a 235 has a slightly wider bolt spacing than a carb for a 216 and it has a slightly bigger venturi and main jet. It can be made to work bu tit's not a direct bolt-on. Good luck
The whole distributor rotates on all 216's, 235's and 261's from the 40's to late 50's when vacuum advance is applied. When Chevy went to the 230, 250, 292 L6's and the V8's the vacuum advance was changed to only rotate the point and/or electronic module plate and the distributor remained stationary. It is quite a sight to see the entire distributor rotate when rpm is increased. It is SOP for those older Stovebolt L6 engines.
Volfandt. wow that was a quick response! I had some drivability issues with my 54 Chevy and will check to see if my distributor rotates when I pull the carburetor linkage. Thanks for the reply.
What shade of blue is that? I lime Chevy Orange but it's a little too much.
It is Chevy/GM blue. Back in 53/54 Chevy called the 235 in the Corvettes Blue Flame specials and painted the engine blocks blue. I decided to follow suit on my Blue Flame special. As an aside, these 235's also came from the factory as grey or black.
@@Volfandt thanks! Gonna do my 70 C10 in blue
This carb had a vacuum leak around the throttle shaft as evidenced by the rise in idle RPM when the Caleb cleaner was sprayed in that area. That is why the choke had to be partially closed for the engine to idle properly.
Unfortunately worn throttle shaft housings are a common problem with these old Rochester model B carbs. The fix is to drill the housing out and install bushings. This carb will get that done eventually. I went to dual Carter Webbers which improved all around performance.
Thank you for this, I drive a 1960 Chevy Apache with a 235. I also really like the channel the old 6 cyls and gardening are definitely my kind of way to pass time.
I constantly watch this video. Such a clean practical build on this engine.
Thanks Ary. Glad you find something of use in it. We'll soon see if it performs as good in the truck as it did on the test stand.
The carbs on all these stove bolt engines can be a plethora of problems. The shaft will likely leak air. This can be normal. Power valve is on or off no tapered needle here. The accelerator pump and check ball is one pan in the ass. Float level is critcal.
There is also a plug for the idle circuit that can pop out and cause this. It's at the top. Easy to miss unless you know about it.
Hey man where abouts is that plug....I am having the same issue and have done everything to this POS rochester carb and can't get it dialed in right
That is one nice looking rebuild. A show stoper for sure.
Thanks Howard
I spent weeks tuning the same carb on a 53 216. Wound up with a 55 jet. And 3 carbs as parts. Oh yah I did add a PCV valve.
wish you could get a manifold that doesn't have those 90 degree bends such as the Dodge slant six has in its far end cylinders.
whats the brass elbow fitting on the intake for? .. was it vacuum line for wipers or gauges?
Yes. That's the constant vacuum source for the vacuum wipers. Larger trucks also used that vacuum tap for power assisted brakes.
@@Volfandt thanks!!
What is the tube comeing off the side of the intake header that looks collapsed with liquid in it?
That tube is connected to a vacuum gauge so I could monitor the intake vacuum during break in. The fluid is some gas that entered the tube from the carb/intake. Some vehicles include a "trap" in the vacuum line to keep that leaked gas from getting to the vacuum advance canister and any other vacuum devices.
Thanks for watching
if you don't mind me asking. what year is that 235 engine? I have a 1961 235 with fenton exaust manifolds and I'm having trouble with putting on my linkage!! any advice would be greatly appreciated! thanks in advance.
My 235 is a 54. I also had problems with my linkage clearing my Fenton exhausts and dual carb intake. I used a coat hanger to mock up the linkage rod with the necessary bends to clear the manifolds then I purchased some 1/4" round stock (I think from Home Dep) and bent it to match the coat hanger and the ends of the stock linkage. It's been working great since. Good luck
Would you mind if I used a bit of your audio from this video for a video of mine?
Sure, use what you find useful. Please put either a card or link to the video you're using in your video.
Thanks for watching i2edeye
@@Volfandt Thanks, will do.
So I see how you bent the throttle rod so doesn't hit the manifold I'm having a issue right as we speak it is it possible for you to give me a close up look on a what you did cause I have the same felton manifolds and my throttle line from the gas pedal to the carburetor is getting stuck in and doesn't allow to go up. Please help.
I've changed over to a dual carb setup but I did make some pics of this carb setup so I'll post links to them.
This link is the OEM throttle shaft.
photos.app.goo.gl/zLnXoWW1nPpGV8wc7
The next pic link shows the clothes hanger I used to bend a template to work around the manifolds.
photos.app.goo.gl/YtQPm7edWYCfkFsL7
This pic link shows how I bent a piece of 1/4" round stock to match the clothes hanger template. I welded a cable clamp onto the new rod for the return spring.
photos.app.goo.gl/T5kRxPZdT74so1ao9
This last pic link shows how it fit.
photos.app.goo.gl/zCykzrbPv1nHvuiz8
I picked up the round stock rod at a local Tractor Supply. I used some heat to make the 90 degree bends but the minor bends didn't require heat. I decided not to bend the OEM rod as they don't make these parts anymore and are getting harder and harder to find.
Good luck
My carb is overfuelling the plugs are very sooty and I get puffs of black crud out the exhaust at start up and then on gear changes. I found used a carb rebuild kit bought with the truck. I was planning on ultrasonic cleaning and a rebuild but not sure there is any point. Been offered a carb off a 235 is this jetted the same as the 216? Thanks Regards Chris
Is your carb a Rohester B? If so theres two possibilities causing your over rich condition. The floats are sticking open and/or have a hole in it which isn't allowing the float to close the inlet valve -or- the power piston is sticking which admits additional fuel into the venturi.
Both can be corrected with a rebuild.
You might also readjust the air/fuel ratio screw to get the best idle when at operating temp.
re.carbs, the carb for a 235 has a slightly wider bolt spacing than a carb for a 216 and it has a slightly bigger venturi and main jet. It can be made to work bu tit's not a direct bolt-on.
Good luck
Hi
I need to rebuild my 235 carb.
Where can i get the correct kit.
Thanks!
Eric, try www.classicparts.com
@@Volfandt thanks!
Mikes Carburetor online
When you opened up the throttle I saw the distributor rotate. Does the straight 6 advance the timing by moving the distributor cap?
The whole distributor rotates on all 216's, 235's and 261's from the 40's to late 50's when vacuum advance is applied. When Chevy went to the 230, 250, 292 L6's and the V8's the vacuum advance was changed to only rotate the point and/or electronic module plate and the distributor remained stationary.
It is quite a sight to see the entire distributor rotate when rpm is increased. It is SOP for those older Stovebolt L6 engines.
Volfandt. wow that was a quick response! I had some drivability issues with my 54 Chevy and will check to see if my distributor rotates when I pull the carburetor linkage. Thanks for the reply.
What carb is that?
It's a Rochester model B 1bbl .