The Best Benchtop Planer for Most People?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- The DeWALT DW735X has been the best bench top thickness planer for woodworkers for many years now. Is it still the king? I am comparing the Oliver vs the Dewalt Planer to find out!
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Question if the Dewalt has a Helical cutter will it have zero snipes and would there be any advantages in. Quality of cut?
Hey Matt I really need a planer I was thinking about the dewalt planer like u have do u get snipe at the end of the boards if u do can u do something to eliminate the snipe
I’ve had the dewalt for a few years, have put hundreds of feet through it. It’s snipe quirky but once you figure it out you can easily avoid. I use a sled when putting short un-parallel pieces through it. I’ve considered putting on the upgraded head just to take the hassle of replacing the standard blades fairly often. Your right though when you consider the cost of a bigger stand alone planner compared to having 1300+ into a bench top. As for bench tops IMO the Dewalt is at the top of the class.
One additional feature on the DeWalt that the others don't have is the impeller and chip extractor. Before I got my dust collection system I ran my DW735X with a spare shop vac hose attached to a pillowcase to capture all of the chips and shavings. The impeller is strong enough to blow all of that out and keep the bed clean. Also, to set up my tables I found a method in an old woodworking magazine that worked great. Set the tables level with the bed on the insides, then put two pennies on either end of the bed on one side. Lay a 4' box level on top of them, then set the outer edge of the table to just touch the bottom of the level. Repeat that for the other side and you will virtually eliminate snipe.
This is such a great way to adjust for that 1/16 or 3/32 slope! So much easier to drop the tables with a level on them, than to raise them!
great tip on setting the tables! I'll use that next time I calibrate. I always set them prefectly flat and was annoyed that I still got a bit if snipe. I was looking into makeing an axillary table to put on top, but I'll try this first.
The 735 is my go to. The build quality is fantastic. In terms of snipe here is how to eliminate it, which depends on what size of lumber you work with. I work with 8 - 10' sometimes 12' 8/4 to 12/4 walnut and snipe kept happening. With long boards, I set the infeed and outfeed inner plates to be perfectly same height as the bed. The outside of the plates, I angle those both up to max height. I use a roller about 4' behind the infeed table which is slightly higher than the highest part of infeed table. Basically everything is getting fed from an angle. I hold the board until it's past the roller AND do NOT let the board just fall off roller and bounce - that will put snipe in the MIDDLE of the stupid board and you don't want that. When the board is about halfway, I jog around to outfeed side and grab board with both hands and support it at the same angle it's coming out. Next, and this is THE most important part - don't let the board drop below the height of the outfeed tables. Those two rollers push on the wood, but when end of board passes first roller, if board is lower than outfeed table, the board will angle up into the cutters and snipe the living crap out of the wood. Support it as it comes out.
I literally spent hours when I first got the machine and went through many scrap boards to figure it out and dial it in. I will say also, consider removing the handle wheel to lower and raise and instead replace it with something that can't be moved so easily. If in a tight space, you'll find hitting the wheel and sending it 1/4 turn which if you were trying to dimension a bunch of lumber this will throw you off and good luck finding the spot again. Using a pencil on the gauge helps, but really if you are on that final pass you really want it to be exact. Trust me on this.
I have the Dewalt, I added the Shelix head because because both the cut quality and the savings on blades outweighed the cons. The out of the box dewalt blades suck, easily chip and are not cheap to replace after a few times of that. Its not a horrible installation process - just takes some time and patience. Also the Wixey can be easily added as well, I think it was like a 30 or 40 dollar upgrade.
I have the DeWalt DW735X. It's one of those tools that has allowed me to construct a ton of projects. A must have tool for anyone who is building up their shop.
I'm looking at the spiral blade version from WEN
I had the delta 13” 3 blade planer worked great smooth output. I sold it and upgraded to a 15” jet with Helix head planer so quiet you barely hear it run.
I have used the craftsman and both models of the Dewalt. I have also used harbor Freights planer and the WEN spiral head 13" planer. The WEN is by far hands down the best planer out of the bunch. The WEN is under $400 and the planer is user friendly, comes with blades and spiral and it is a workhorse.
thats HUGE info! thank you!!!
@@coppulor6500 HF hercules planer just came out, beats the WEN all day every day
@@eksine I ended up getting the DeWalt. Dig it quite a bit
@@coppulor6500 nice, look into the Shelix headcutters, it's helical, really expensive but look up videos on what it can do. as far as I can tell, no snipe, uses less HP, blades rotate 4 ways so you get 4x carbide life, plus as far as I can tell finish is usable without sanding, $450 though. which is why I'll get the Oliver planer when I'm ready and they have it back in stock, uses the shelix headcutter, only bench planer designed for that from the start
I bought the dewalt about 4 months ago after using the HARBOR FREIGHT planer for 2 years! (Yes I'm a true beginner). The dewalt is FANTASTIC!!! I don't do a LOT of planning but I treated myself to the upgrade and don't regret it at all!
I was really debating between DeWALT and Oliver for the bench top style planers the past few months. Well... today, I ended up picking the Oliver for $899 at local Woodcraft. They have $100 off special right now. I'm a bit new to woodworking and I've been collecting various tools lately. I'm definitely excited to start using the Oliver planer.
Thanks for the great comparison Matt. I just picked up a 2yr old 735 for $325. I figured a slightly used 735 would be better than one of the budget planners. Hopefully my gamble works out.
I’ve got a Rigid planer. 2 blades. Locking hight and depth gauge. I’ve been happy with it as a first planer. I’ve planed pine, white oak, and maple with it. It’s been great so far.
I have one of those too. It’s a surprisingly good machine.
My wife got me the rigid 13 inch 3 blade the other day for a early Christmas gift as of yet I’ma loving it
Great comparison! Thanks for throwing that Craftsman in there to show the difference in quality. I think this video will help a lot of people decide which planer suits them best.
Hey Matt, I was just wondering. Have you tried or done a comparison on the Cutech planer? I think you will be surprised at what you get at the price you get it for. I bought one and I am very pleased with it. I even got it with the shellacl head.
I just did a quick search online.
Dewalt 735 $599 at Lowes
Infeed/outfeed tables +/- $50 on Amazon
Byrd Shelix $430-$545
That's less than $1200 for the whole setup. You may have to do the installation yourself, but in my opinion a much better machine.
i actually bought the oliver based on your previous video mainly because it is cheaper in the long run after you add a helix head to the dewalt.
Have you considered the Wen PL1326? Spiral Cutting head in a budget friendly planer.
I know it might be overkill or even pointless but I want a review from you about wen with a spiral blade as well... So many people are often tempted to turn to Wen for a starter tool. I have been watching your channel for years and your reviews and options tend to be worth twice that of other TH-camrs to me. I started watching you painting projects on an old patio table and work your way up. Even though I have always wanted to have a workshop I've never had the means... Not having my own home and space and trying to work on projects outdoors as fast as I can before the weather ruins them and massive head injuries and having my son on the way who just turned one so on and so on but you really have inspired me to keep at it and now I'm finally making progress.
Nice review, Matt! I purchased the DeWalt planer about two years ago and I was able to get it on sale for $499, so I lucked out getting one before the recent price $100 price jump. I agree that it is a more solid tool all-around, and honestly, if I can purchase and install a helix head myself, then at today's prices, it's worth it versus the Oliver. As far as when to purchase one, my advice to people would be to wait until you have a need for one -- much like any other tool -- then go for a better built model. I don't know that it's worth getting the Craftsman or a similar inexpensive lunchbox style planer. I had a used Craftsman model from the 1990s for a couple of years and it was not very durable; it initially broke after less than a year of modest use. After repairing it and making a point to be more careful with it, it broke again less than a year after that. My DeWalt, on the other hand, planes everything almost effortlessly and, as you showed, it is SOLID. So, bottom line, this is one of those tools that you do not want to go cheap because you WILL eventually become frustrated with its quality (or lack thereof) and limitations.
I got my 735X (feed tables and extra set of blades) on Amazon in July of 2021 about like you did on sale for $499 also. It had been $599 and I looked again one day and it went on sale for like 1-2 days and I snagged it asap.
I had the 735 for about 15 years or so. Had a job with a buddy where we ran through hundreds of board feet of 8/4 hickory. After six weeks of constant use it started to die on me. Hickory, for those that don't know, is a bear of a wood to work. Very hard on one's tools. I lubed the bearings, cleaned the infeed/outfeed rollers, polished the platen (for the umpteenth time), and cleaned everything I could but it simply would no longer push wood through. I had a choice of having DeWalt refurbish it for $400, buy a new one for $650 or step up to a helical head which I did. Bought a 15" Grizzly and it's been sweet ever since.
I would highly recommend the 735 to anyone; it proved a bear of a machine for a long time and it kept on kicking until the very end. The three knives are double sided and are indexed for easy replacement.
Do you get zero snipes?
How much was the Grizzly and where did you make the purchase.
@@rickyperkins232 I get minimal snipe but it's manageable. I always process my pieces longer than final dimension needed. I'm actually not that mechanically inclined to tweak the machines to make it "perfect." I can work with a little imperfection.
Regarding the planer, I bought it directly from Grizzly. It's the G0891 model. I think with freight and residential delivery it was just under $2,400, substantially increased from pre-covid pricing. But still the best value/price from the few others on the market, i.e., Powermatic, Jet, Oliver, etc.
This coming spring I hope to upgrade my Grizzly 8" jointer (also 15 years old) to an 8" helical head parallelogram model. That'll be about $3K. Selling the existing should bring in (hopefully) $1K to help with buying. Also directly from Grizzly.
@@grantman1148 I'm actually torn between the dewalt DW735 or DW735X and putting a helical cutter in it or the Oliver but not sure where to go. I do know I need zero Snipes which seems to lead to the Oliver.
@@rickyperkins232 I know nothing about the Oliver but have seen enough TH-cam videos that show eliminating snipe on the 735 is doable. The comment in the video regarding not being able to put/stage wood on top of the machine is on point. My new Grizzly has a moveable head and therefore I am unable to do so and I miss that. I was so used to having that capability with the 735 I would opt for that with the Shelix head and not the Oliver. If you do process a lot of wood, that small (well, not so small) attribute will definitely come in handy. Good luck. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
I wish you had included the Wen PL 1326 in your reviews. Word is it's pretty impressive, especially for under$400.
Me Too!
I've been using a Delta 22-540 planer for 30 years. It's basic, like the Craftsman, 2 blades, single speed, only has an analog depth scale. It originally cost ~$275. I already added a Wixey for $70. Solid (not hinged) tables shimmed just so, essentially no snipe with proper technique (slightly lifting the board on its way in and on its way out). It produces an excellent surface as is. I'm thinking that all I really need for top-level results is to add the Shelix head to it for $423 (currently on sale). Even if I include the long amortized purchase price, this seems the best possible conversion for me at this point. Any comments?
A beginner with several 'big' projects planned. This was great to see the differences between entry level and mid-budget.
I've thought of buying the Craftsman next year as my first planer. BUT I have figured within a couple years I'd upgrade to a nicer one like the DeWalt. So I've decided I'm going to save up a little longer and just get the DeWalt. It'll save me some hassle of having to then save up again for a second planer then have to deal with the process of selling the Craftsman at a later time
i bought my first planer in august and just sold it and upgraded to the dewalt today due to my home business doing well
@@burnu2240 I had my Craftsman for about two years when I finally decided to buy a 735. The 735 with the helical head from findbuytools has been AMAZING. I ran 30 cedar pickets through the other day, three times each, and still no grooves or ridges in the cut quality. I've actually started running boards through the planer for a final time, any time that I can, instead of sanding them (I typically hit 120-180 grit). That being said, I ran hundreds of pickets and pine boards through my craftsman and didn't rotate the blades for almost a year. The small ridges are easily sanded down in a few seconds, and the replacement blades are almost always in stock at a local Lowe's for a fraction of the price of the Dewalt blades. Keep in mind that the Dewalt straight blades WILL still get damaged, just as easily as the Craftsman, since they're all just made from high speed steel. In my opinion, it's worth all the disclaimers in the world to include the pricing option of upgrading the 735 on your own, even as an afterthought. Today, 12/23/22, I could order a brand new 735 ($600, less for used) and the 4-row helical head with bearings (findbuytool, $350, in stock) and get the ultimate setup for around $1000. That's better than you'll get from any benchtop setup and most entry floor model planers!
What you could do is get a dewalt with the shelix head, and run it through a power bar with a reset switch so when the power cuts out the breaker on the power bar trips. Then you get 2 of the primary features that you want. The digital readout on the oliver is pretty nice though.
My Oliver was delivered like 2 hours ago. I found it and purchased it based on your previous video so funny you post this today
When you run it please let me know if you get zero Snips
Grizzly G0940 2HP comes with a helical cutter head for $799 shipped (as of this post) if you don't need the DRO of the Oliver, and/or not specifically looking for a BYRD Shelix cutter head.
First off a huge thank you for your videos!! Because of your videos and how much detail they go into they have led me to purchase many of the same tools use you use DowelMax, the full sized Dewalt plunge router and more. I am a beginner DIYer who hasn't done woodworking since wood shop in high school! I actually purchased the Dewalt planer before seeing your video on it here. I have not had a chance to use it. I'm in the middle of install the metal table extensions.
I'm struggling with the recommendations about snipe for the Dewalt model. You mention to have both the in-feed and out-feed tables 1/8th higher. Apparently this is a hot debated topic on the internet. I was planing on installing them flat, as the manual doesn't mention raising it up. If you search TH-cam I find a million videos that support both theories (flat vs raised) and then the comments are full of people saying it didn't work for them on both methods.
So I'm struggling on how to even get it set up. I'm going to assume the answer is "trial and error" if you do take the time to respond (I really hope you do). I've seen people make some router sleds to extend the in-feed or out-feed tables a lot for longer wood. That's my problem right now. I'm following a set of plans to build my woodworking table. I'm working with 6 foot 2x8's (that will become 2x4's after I rip em on the Dewalt 8" table saw. I see people using this sled type setup to avoid snipe and also the natural bending of the ends of the wood due to their length at the ends if not supported. I also have the problem because I'm buying 2x8's from my local "blue" store, the wood is a mess, after rummaging through almost everything they had I got the closest boards to being "straight" but they almost all still have a twist. I've been seeing different techniques online on how to shim them to get a flat parallel top from the planer and again using a sled type situation due to these boards being long (6 ft now after cross cutting them on my circular saw from 12 feet).
I have purchased 4 adjustable roller stands that can be adjusted to any height to match the router in-feed and out-feed tables. I was thinking using 2 on each side instead of building a sled so they can just slide in and out with no bending upwards/downwards to avoid snipe. Of course this is after I HAVE to use a jig to shim and take out the twist. I don't own or have room for any type of band saw. What are your thoughts on the best way to proceed? Once this project is build I wont be cutting super long boards for awhile most likely but I'm going to save whatever I build (sled jig whatever) of course.
I bought 4ftx8ft 3/4" MDF thats nice and flat so I can use that to build flat jigs or sleds or anything really. I'm also trying to figure out how to square the 2x8's on the sides before really starting the work, I want everything even to 90 on all 4 sides. I was thinking of using the MDF to create a long straight edge to lay the 2x8's on and use a straight bit router to shave off just a tiny amount along the edges to get the 6 feet nice and square and parallel to each other, and do the same with at least one side with the router and the use the table saw for the others. I really want to start the project right with wood that doesn't look like a canoe! I saw some sleds for using a planing bit and jig to use a router to plane the top at which point you could flip it over and run it through the planer (again assuming the adjust rollers will suffice to support the 6ft board evenly to avoid snipe.
I don't have a shop. I have virtually no space, so I have to literally roll out my table saw or whatever tool into the backyard to use it. It's a pain but its all I got. So I was hoping you could give me your experience with snipe in more detail especially with long boards and store bought twisted boards. Do you think the rolling stands are good enough? If so should I even bother with the planer extensions? How would you tackle this problem with limited tools and space.
I don't have a jointer. I've got the table saw, planer, router and circular saw as main power tools. I have 3 saw horses, 2 of which are the same brand (BORA and seem to allow you to insert a 2x4 into the sides to be able to place say a chunk of the MDF as working station. The third is a different brand and folds out to a mini work table that isn't very stable to be honest but its OK for small wood lengths, not 6 feet!. I would have do this outside because I don't have room. I have 4 roller stands adjustable to any height (BORA as well) they have 3 ways they can work as rollers, as ball bearings allowing the wood to move free in any direction, and then a flat part to act like a traditional saw horse. Then I have the 4ftx8ft MDF (2 sheets) and a sheet of the same dimensions of plywood on the way. How can I get these 6ft 2x8's perfectly square on all sides and avoid snipe too? I know this is huge ask, and your a busy guy I'm sure. Hoping you will take a few minutes to point me in the right path. Your videos have been a godsend to me to give me motivation to pursue this hobby which is something I've wanted to get back into since high-school! You seem like a great person in your videos with a kind heart. I don't have anyone I can talk to about this that I can learn from. I certainly don't expect you to walk me through everyone, but any help/tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated, that also goes for anyone out there who may be reading this very long (sorry) post. If you have possible solutions please let me know. Remember I'm new at this, so comments like build a whole entire in-feed and out-feed table for the planer that is as long as the boards is a skill set I just don't have yet. You should have seen my trying to get 10 - 2x8 boards 12 feet long home in my truck, that was scary, I knew they cut lumber at the store but when I went to ask they said they only cut boards up to 1" in thickness. I was crushed. having more than half the boards sticking out the bed of my truck was a terrible experience not to mention it was raining out!
Hoping for some advice, need trued 2x8's all sides that are 6ft long, I have about 20 of them I need to work on. THEN I can start with the actual table build project. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer up or anyone else for that matter. God bless from a complete newbie DIYer in Florida!
I have the dewalt DW735 on a dedicated rolling table with good infeed and outfeed support. I also added the Wixey digital readout. I am curious, and if it is in your budget for 2023, would like to see you upgrade your 735x with the Shelix head and see if, in your opinion, it is worth the price of the head itself. I know there are a lot of videos out there of this already, but I feel like you would be 100% honest about it and let us know exactly what your thoughts are about the install and quality added to the finish and if the oliver would even be in the discussion at that point. Thank you for all of your videos this year!!
Not sure if you have seen Chris Devos woodworking channel but he has a dedicated video on installing the shelix and the before and after. I would like to see 731 do one as well as I am a fan, but thought I’d give you an alternative in the meantime! Hope this helps.
@@andersonolive4553there’s a bunch of these put out over the years. It seems as though most of those who have done it are happy with the result. But in truth, it’s not for the faint hearted. I also do machining, and so am used to disassembling equipment, but most other woodworkers I know are not. The videos may actually turn some people off because of the complexity. It might pay to spend the extra money to get one with the head if the room for a heavier, slightly larger planer isn’t in the cards. And even then, if you do get one if the 15” floor standers, the head will cost more.
Moving up would be a deal breaker for me. It's rarely to get any specific measured thickness, like 1in, but instead to make sure that everything that goes through is the exact same thickness. If I can't plane everything without moving the carriage I will choose to slim everything down a tiny bit more to ensure they're all exactly the same. If they carriage moved on it's own, this would make it impossible to be sure. It's the same reason you want to reference instead of measure.
While I can figure out how deep I'm planing largely by feel without the DW735's depth removal gauge, that's only because I've been using the planer enough, and what I'm feeling move is the depth gauge. I'm usually doing many small passes and the exact depth isn't important, but the feel is. I don't worry about sticking the piece in and missing the gauge.
I describe the DW735 as being like an Inkjet printer. Assuming I turn on the dust collection, it's one of the easiest tools to use, but it doesn't do magic. If the board isn't flat on bottom it won't be flat on top, and you'll get in real trouble sticking boards in that aren't long enough.
The power switch is something to watch out for. The DW735 will trip the breaker for me if I have something that doesn't belong on it's circuit and the dust is on a 240 that never trips, but in my old shop I could trip the breaker and it could go back on without getting the dust on and get clogged. I've never been in a dangerous situation because of this, but I would be most worried about not being there to handle a large workpiece coming out.
"I usually do about a quarter turn". Yep. There are times you do more or a little less, but you get a feel for it.
I have had problems with the DW735 tables being damaged and had to replace them. I wouldn't mind sturdier tables.
The DW745 blades are reversible, and if you buy the X combo I think you still get extra blades. It's more annoying if you nick them than on the Shelix, but it's good to remember.
It's super easy to get the DW735 open.
I'm not a fan of the way the dust collection connects on the DW735. I had to replace the part on back recently as it got damaged over time.
I debated between the dewalt with helical head, oliver with byrd shelix and the grizzly benchtop with helical. I decided to go with the grizzly as I found it to be more stable/well built than the oliver and $350 cheaper as it was delivered to my door for $750 last year.
I'm thinking of getting the Grizzly G0940 as well. Seems like a good value, solid with a helical for less than $800. My only concern with Grizzly is the quality of the build, which seems a bit suspect with the lower end models. How has your experience been with yours Christina?
@@alexpineda6107 I think the quality is quite good. The outer casing is plastic but it has metal rollers on top and feels quite sturdy to me. The internal mechanics are a good quality in my opinion.
Bought a brand new Dewalt a year ago. It was horrific. After 6 mos I took it to a Dewalt center. They completely rebuilt it. They were astounded at how bad a new one was. So was I. Btw, it works great NOW!!
Thanks for the review Matt. Still can’t decide which way to go on Dewalt vs Oliver. Just so you know, if you have a Woodcraft in your area, they advertise the Oliver for $999. That’s easier to swallow than $1200 at most places.
I just got a Wen spiral head planner for Christmas! Can’t wait to use this thing!
Can you test out the Bauer thickness planer from harbor freight?
You can add a Wixet gauge to the DeWalt quick and easy for about $50.
Get the Dewalt and start out with a solid planer at a reasonable price (at least for these days) The cut is totally fine with straight blades, and you have the option to spend more later for shelix if you think you need it and when you have more money available.
I have the Dewalt, my biggest gripe is the fact that it has a star bit tool included to remove the blades. Dewalt should have made all bolts that size on the planar. Having to go get an Allan to adjust or tighten things really makes me mad.
I think the Oliver is a w734 with a Shelix head and a wiky gauge. A side by side of those would be awesome
The biggest advantage of the Oliver is the cutterhead. If Dewalt put in a helical head into 735 for $900-$1000, then the Oliver would have no advantage.
You can replace the plastic top with the a metal one from the 734. A
I’m not convinced that 2 speeds is as needed with a helical head as it is with straight knives
I've had the dewalt for many years. And it works very well. The noise is absolutely deffing. That helical head would be great.
It is however annoying that the adjustment handle does not come off for storage. As it's typically getting in my way.
I've also found that the dewalt adjustment does not stay like you say. With the vibrations it tends to turn on its own and I often find myself holding the handle to keep it from moving.
Hey Matt, hope all is well. I have a DW-735 with a Shelix cutterhead. I bought the planer on Amazon for $499 on sale. At that time Amazon allowed for 4x interest free payments charged to my credit card (~$125/month). this made it VERY affordable. I encourage people watching to monitor Amazon to see when this payment plan is available. After a few months of use, I upgraded to the Shelix head ($500). I made the change b/c the factory knives for the DW-735 are really bad. I had a set chip-out the first time I used them. At $50/set, I got frustrated and bought the Shelix after seeing how quickly the payback was going to be. For close to $1000 I couldn't ask for more. I encourage everyone considering the DW-735 to take the plunge. The machine runs much better and one will never need to buy new cutterheads under normal use. IMO, I found the Shelix cutter heads to be finicky. Sometimes, the screws holding the cutters to the cyclindrical body needed to be sanded (shortened) so that they will seat all the way down. This was how I was able to eliminate all the carbide scrape marks on my machine. I've heard that the Byrd heads eliminate this problem but I cannot confirm (FWIW, I do like Shelix since they are made in USA rather that Byrd from Taiwan). Great review and I wish you and your family a merry Christmas!
P.S., I love how you stood on the DeWalt when it's clearly marked 'no-step'.
I also got the 735 and shelix on sale a couple of years ago for about the same all in price as you. I had the same issue with the stock cutters, I went through two sets in about 30ft planing some hard maple and some epoxy stuff. Thanks for the note about the screw length, I have had that problem and gave up trying to re- seat the cutters all the time. It drove me crazy. I will try shortening the screws. Even with that issue it’s been a great planer, and eats through even the hardest exotics. I have only worn out a few cutters (all 4 sides) in two years. Way cheaper than replacing stock cutters.
I have a 19 year old 735 that has swallowed an unimaginable amount of rough lumber; red and white oak, walnut, cherry, hickory, ash, poplar, cedar etc. In 19 years I've changed the knives a number of times and about 10 years ago I went to knives from Infinity Tools because they're a bit thicker. Other than doing some cleaning of the rollers with either acetone or 90% isopropanol and cleaning the depth mechanism, it's never given me a problem. I combat snipe by inclining the board slightly on both ends and, if width permits, feeding the board at a slight angle to the knives to get some shearing action. It may be the best tool bargain ever.
The Olivier looks almost identical to the Delta that I owned for about 10 years prior to the DeWalt. Of course, it had straight knives, but it was a real snipe producer. In retrospect, it was probably having some carriage movement because of the 2-post design. DeWalt's 4 post design is the key feature.
I have the crafstman, it works. But it does have quite a bit of snipe on it no matter how I adjusted it
I just added a segmented cutter head to my DW735. Best of both worlds. It’s a time consuming but fairly easy upgrade.
Thanks for this review. I have the Dewalt and it does a great job but man o man is it load and forget the fast cut setting on a 15A breaker. inrush current on startup is enough to trip a warm 15A breaker. So the two questions I would like to have answered, and one seemed to show in the video is how much current draw for the same cut per machine and how loud are they? I hear the helical head helps with both power draw and noise level. The dewalt is a heavy machine to be moving around, They do make a great stand for it.
DW735 with a Wixey depth gauge and Shelix cutterhead for the win. I've upgraded just about every tool in my shop over the past 5 years (miter saw, router table, drill press, dust collector). The DW735 is still here and probably won't ever get upgraded. I simply cannot find a worthwhile replacement that: 1) Does more. 2) Is movable around the garage. and 3) Doesn't break the bank.
I upgraded my DW735 to the Grizzly spiral cutter myself. It took me about 2.5 hours. The cut is very good and I do notice a reduction in noise. So overall, not a very bad upgrade.
How much did that cost you, if I may ask?
@@baddog4347 the cutter was about $320 plus free shipping when I bought it a few years back. I got it in sale.
@@1pcfred even with hearing protection, it is still very loud.
@@1pcfred I have used the foam ones as well and yes, they are a pain to put on.
I know you're a fan of the Wahuda jointer, so I was hoping the Wahuda desktop planer would be in your comparison as well. Price point is about $800, and I just ordered one. I actually considered reaching out to you to see if you would unbox and test it, but I needed it for this weekend. That said, maybe Wahuda would be interested in sending you one, since you gave such a great review of their jointer, to test and compare to the others you have...? Not a freebie, but a sample to try.
I have the cutech 13in with a helical head. Shipped for $600 been very happy with it.
I've done some wood working before, but not a lot. For me just looking to get started and being retired and on a rather tight budget, I'm thinking I might go with the Craftsman to start. If the hobby turns into something a bit more serious, then would think about the DeWalt. I like some the features on the Oliver, but probably not enough to spend the money for it. Another video I watched comparing different planers tested 8 planers. One was the Porter Cable. I might go with that one due to the price and quality. It seemed a bit better than the Craftsman. But I really like the DeWalt, so might want to work it into my budget. All that said, I like your T-Shirt. God bless.
I wish you had a Wahoda to compare
I bought the Wen PL1326 as it has spiral cutter heads, 7’ 2” oak board have come out beautiful
Great comparison. Love the shirt. Question: How much sanding would be needed on the board planed by the DeWalt to get to the smoothness of the Oliver? I just got into woodworking about 9 months ago so I am good with getting something better than the Craftsman, but not sure about spending the $$$ on the Oliver. My local Woodcraft has them for $999 and while getting the Oliver would be easier than upgrading the DeWalt, I don't mind doing some sanding to get it to the Oliver quality. And I am not making high end furniture or anything. And after 3 years when the DeWalt warranty is out I could look at upgrading it then if I have stuck with this.
I upgraded to a Shelix. If not for a tiny amount (same as before) of snipe, the board would be finish ready when it comes out.
I've been eyeing the Dewalt with the Byrd head (self installed). Having said that, you can get the Oliver from Woodcraft for $999, which makes it much cheaper.
DeWalt makes switches that won't turn on if the tool looses power. My 8 1/4" table saw has this feature. It's also the same kind of paddle switch so you could replace it.
I wish we could buy the Dewalt in the UK, I have the Triton which I think is similar to the craftsman, nice review 👍🏼
I don't have a planer yet. I'm on a semi budget. I only buy on sale but choose based on quality and durability. For me the Dewalt has always been my choice simply because it has four posts, its just inherently more stable that way. To me that puts it in its own class, between every other tabletop and full on planers.
People often claim a helical cutter head is superior to straight knives. That's simply untrue. Straight knives deliver a far superior cut on par with 600-800 grit or better sandpaper. The tiny knives on the helical cutter create dozens of tiny divots across the face of the board that you can see if you were to run charcoal or colored chalk over it.
Where the helical head has an advantage is when dealing with figured wood, or wood where the grain is not continuous, in which the straight knife can cause tearout and the tiny knives of the helical cutter won't because they are cutting/shearing a much smaller portion.
IMO for most woodworkers dealing with domestic species wood, a helical head planer is a waste of money.
In the Before Times (circa 2019) I scored my DeWalt for $500 and a Byrd Shelix on sale for $380. I installed it myself following a very thorough TH-cam video. I'm no mechanic, but it was easy enough going slow and careful. It's a robust machine that I've put thousands of feet of lumber through. I added a Wixey digital depth scale, too. So all the selling features of the Oliver on the DeWalt for nearly half of the Oliver's cost after the upgrades. The tables ARE finnicky, but I'd say that's the only drawback and you learn how to adjust them. The Oliver's carriage lock would drive me absolutely nuts.
I remember not pulling the trigger on a shelix head because it was over $300.
Wish I could go back in time and kick myself.
My son has started making things with wood, and he's saving up to buy a dewalt Thicknesser planer, because he's read up on dewalt, and found they are the best ones to buy.
There is one planer I would in, and it is I guess you would call Intermediate, the Dewalt 734. The reason why i suggest this is,it is a three blade system, it has the same type of clamp/lock down, and the thickness indicators. It is more than the Craftsman, but a couple hundred less than the 735
Love these technical videos. Also, I inadvertently did this test on my meatballs, for which I put diced onions directly into the meat. The finely diced meatballs where way tastier because of the increased uniformity and not having the noticeable chunks of diced onion in bites of the meatball.
you okay bro?
Nice comparison review. I have the Dewalt. Added the Wixey digital gage. It's hyper accurate - board thickness matches my (expensive) Starrett dial calipers to the 1/32 every time. Also added the Shelix head. I've gotten my money's worth in serious time saved not sanding. You can pretty much start at 220 grit right off the Shelix. Non-show faces don't have to be sanded (my preferred finish method is a couple passed with a No. 4 hand plane right off the Shelix, no sanding necessary).
I was looking at the Laguna px12, and I think it is the exact same machine as the Oliver.
Something that I do and I'm sure many others do is place the boards on top of the dewalt as I cycle through them. You can't do that with the others.
Had my DeWalt DW735 planer since 2014. My warranty is long past. I'm seriously considering the Bird Shelix head upgrade for it.
can you make project videos instead of the same old tool stuff :{
I’d like to see the Wen PL1326 as well!!
My brother-in-law used that Dewalt for 6 years in his lumber business when he was starting out and he says "you just can't break it. a real workhorse." I have had one in my wood shop for the last 10 years and no problems.
I would add that the Dewalt has great dust collection, even without a dust collector. I've had mine for about 12 years, and it came with a hose and a bag of sorts that goes over a garbage can. Works excellent. Not sure if it still comes with it or not.
I have the older DeWalt planer. It has the lever lock. I just ordered a helical head for it. The only thing is the 1/2 inch I'm missing on cut width.
Love my Dewalt. Only whole system upgrade is to get a commercial planer like Grisly, Jet or Powermatic.
FWIW Wixey makes the same DRO for the DeWalt and it’s not terribly expensive but is something you have to buy and install but it’s a good kit. I have it on mine and wouldn’t go back.
Sounds like Oliver is trying to get a premium on a basic lunchbox planer with a couple of additional features and a shelix head, but the DeWalt is the better choice if you're going up to that price point. Even with the straight blades I get a pretty smooth cut from the DeWalt. Definitely plenty smooth enough for final sanding. The main reason I want a shelix head is because it's a lot more quiet.
Love my DeWalt but I sure go through a lot of blades! A Helix cutting head costs way too much so I'll keep buying the replacement blades for now.
I have the bauer and that's the one thing I hate... because of the dust collection I can't fold up one side
I think they should have made it so maybe the dust collection folds up...then the outfeed folds up..that would have been nice. But there's a few screws to take off the dust chute on the bauer so it's annoying
Nice review, would have liked to see the Rikon 25-135H compared also. It has carbide cutters like the helix but mounted on a flat plane, no helix. It is very solid, the top even has rollers. The price range sits between the Dewalt and the Oliver at around $750-$800 although Menards had them on sale for $599 a few days ago !
why dont you do a review on the ridgid bench top I had a rigid for 22 years and it still works to this day
I bought the Grizzly 13 inch heical head planer for 820.00 delivered. I really like it! On a side note, I have owned three dewalt 735's, each lasting about 4-5 years. Seems the motors go out at 4-5 years.
My buddy had one that the motor quit on, it just needed the brushes replaced, local electric motor repair shop did it pretty cheaply if I remember right.
just bought the oliver from woodcraft hope its as good as you said the cut is
13:13 it's funny the oliver wrench still has the magnets to removing straight blades even though it has the shelix head. I assume it's because it's just a basic lunchbox design used for other brands that they have added the shelix to. Makes me wonder what it would cost to buy the same planer and install your own versus buying the oliver with it installed. It's certainly more expensive to buy the DeWalt with the shelix installed.
Hard to be Dewalt when there’s that big of a price difference. Great review!
Stock Dewalt doesn’t have a helical blade so that’s not a fair assessment. Once you put the shellix in the dewalt it’s several hundred more expensive than the Oliver. Oliver crushes stock dewalt. It’s not a fair comparison.
In the end they are comparable but you have to upgrade the dewalt.
In my opinion it’s either 300$ lunch box, $1000 Oliver or upgraded dewalt, more expensive and bigger industrial planer. Those are the three categories. I see no point in spending 600$ on a straight blade dewalt. Either go down or up a category from there.
I have the 735 and it’s pretty good. Snipe is sometimes annoying no matter what I do. Will probably get a Powermatic floor planer next to replace it.
Buy a used Powermatic. Be very careful with a new one. Powermatic quality has tanked and their service has suffered. They used to be fantastic. Unfortunately, they no longer build machinery. They outsource and import.
The dw735 also has a digital readout attachment that you could purchase
The DeWalt is a work horse and an excellent compliment to my Powermatic P60 jointer. I picked one up in 2019 for under $500 with the tables and an extra set of blades.
That is exactly my setup, and I also got the planer in 2019 with the stand and extra blades, only I paid $600. I was never able to adjust well enough to get snipe out, so I just take that into account when I do rough cuts. It's just a hobby for me so the extra cost isn't really an issue.
You should review the Grizzly G0940 spiral head 13” planer!
The Oliver is only $999 at Woodcraft. It doesn't SEEM to be on sale either. But who knows... maybe it'll go up in price after the holidays
It's showing $999 and in stock direct from Oliver as well.
Oliver was 899 at Woodcraft for black Friday
Have you considered doing a review on the Ridgid R4331? Considering you have a lot of Ridgid tools and they do offer the LSA on the planer, it seems like that would be a great competitor in the category.
DeWALT DW735X is a tank...I just bought it during some deals going on. Can't complain for the price or quality.
Im just getting into making wood signs and animal faces cut with my band saw and need a planner and I think Im going with the Harbor Freight Hercules, it has all the features as the Oliver minus the digital meter but with the discount it was right around 310-330.00
I bought the DeWalt a few months ago for $600 on sale with the intent of putting the helical head on it. I debated between the DeWalt and the grizzly, but the deciding factor was the two speed settings on the DeWalt
Thanks man for making this video. This was exactly what I needed to watch!
What about the Wahuda 13” planer vs. the Oliver and Dewalt?
Your videos are extremely helpful been loving them as I’m getting more and more into woodworking. Thanks for all the content!
Glad to hear it!
Have you considered testing the Rikon 13 inch 2 speed planer against the others in this video, and the price varies depending on where you get it. Amazon it's about $563, and at Woodcraft it runs for $800.
Great video and very timely as I just ordered the DW735X from Amazon yesterday for $629 (includes extra set of blades and the outfeed tables). Home Depot wanted $740 for the exact same package, and refused to price match with Amazon, so guess who got my business. Anyway, I really your approach to these reviews, and you often include info I can't find anywhere else, like adjusting the outfeed tables - I absolutely 100% would have made that same mistake had I not seen this video. Merry Christmas!
As the Dewalt doesn't need the locking head due to its design, does the Oliver need a solid top with its locking head?
Great video, I do have the 735, but was unable to get rid of the snipe. Will raise the table ends up 1/8”, thanks for the heads up