New ACE AF1 Hollow Truck
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- I've been riding ACE Trucks for years, but these are the new AF1 Hollow, here's my first impression. Subscribe here: bit.ly/subscri...
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please scroll back up to smash the like button so i can pay my bills
That pool in the background of you setting up your board would look a lot better drained and with someone skating it lol
Hey Zack, Definitely try some spacers between your bearings to stop the lateral movement of your bearings in the wheels, I've done some videos on them if you find those helpful, I know a lot of people say they don't see the point of them etc but they really do serve a valid purpose and you can tighten down the tuck nut fully and still have the wheels spin properly. Keep up the great work 👊
P.S. looks like those nuts are missing their nyloc inserts that hold them tight, but you don't need extra washers, one either side of the wheel is what you should use any more serves no purpose and just gives less room for the nut as you found. Rockslides are 🔥🔥🔥
You are such a Californian. The most California dude on youtube. Good video. I might try them again. They seem to grind down fast for me. I think the metal is softer than Indy’s.
The shape of the hanger where it meets the axle is meant to allow you to have no inside washer. I ride my AF1s with just 1 washer between the wheel and the nut, and no inside washer. Never had an issue doing that.
Facts
@@brokedownsuperman indeed
Damm bro, have you been reading the slap forums? lmaooo. Extra washers is only used if you have 149s and dont want to buy 159, buying new trucks? then buy the size you actually need. Also, wth with "loose wheels"! You are supposed to use spacers AND washers to fix your inner bearing ring to the axl and the outer ring to the wheel so the bearing balls do their work, thats how bearings works. Losing the washers, or the spacers, or having loose wheels only degrades the bearings faster by putting more side pressure on them. Kinda like the people that take off both covers because they like the sound. Sponsored skaters of course can do whatever they want since they get free bearings, but plebs like me who need to take care of their stuff, i dont want to be paying 60 usd for swiss every few months.
Skateboarding is full of broscience, but its making companies good money.
The extra washers take up enough space so the nyloc is not engaging so the nuts will only get finger tight. Add the spin of wheels and the nuts come off. The nyloc is why it is called a lock nut. With 9 " trucks and an 8.75" board why would you want to add washers and make the wheels stick out even farther? Aces af1 66 are 9" it's more likely the board measurement is off. Why would wide wheels be a problem when it's the width of the bearing space that matters. Wide and skinny wheels all have the same width at the bearings.
Extra washers are always good so the other part of your nut sits flush with your axle. This ways the thread on the axle don’t get bashed up from flips amd bails. This way the trucks will last you more. Yeah Ace gives you rethreaders but you cam rethread a bolt only so many times.
Obviously if the nut lock is not engaged it is a problems. I use 3 washers on each wheel. And never had an wheel coming of of my ace af1 44s.
I am not sure that all wheels have the same witdh near the bearings. Maybe if someone uses very marrow wheels they might get away with 4 washers, and with super wide wheels maybe even 3 is too much
@@SUB0SCORION I only skate transition so I rarely mess up the threads on my axles but it makes sense why you use the extra washer. Really smart solution!!! As long as you can get an extra washer in and still engage the nyloc it should be fine but I have noticed Ace doesn't seem to thread the axles back as far and Indy so I can see where an extra washer might be a problem, especially since some washers are thicker than others. I prefer the thicker ones myself. I have never had any problems with Ace Af1's either. I do change out the kingpin for an inverted titanium one. It gives unbelievable clearance. I can grind through the axle and never touch my kingpin. I also use bearing spacers with one washer inside and one outside the wheel. I then tighten the nuts until there is zero play and let the bearings spin as designed. I use Ceramics and it seems to help them last.
@@davejs1671 just to clarify, 1 inside the wheel and 1 outside the wheel, you dont actualy mean 1 between the bearings fo you? I asume you mean washer, bearing, spacer, bearing, washer an then the nut?
@@diroos yes that is correct. Washer, bearing, bearing spacer, bearing, washer, nut. If you look closely at the washers, there is usually a flat side and a rounded over edge side. I always put the inside washer, flat edge against the truck, rounded side faces bearing, on outside, again rounded edge side faces bearing and flat side against nut. I also spin the wheel as I tighten the nut to be sure everything seats perfectly. Doing so allows me to tighten the nut and the bearings spin freely.
@@SUB0SCORIONthat's not how wheels work but ok
8.75 deck with a 9in truck is only ¼ of an inch difference so you would only see ⅛ of an sticking out on each side of the deck. I'm not surprised you don't see the wheels
Back when I started skateboarding in 99 8.25 were the widest boards our local shop had. We rode them with 149. So that ratio feels just natural. When I went up with board sizes I always tried to keep that exact relation. So, also had 8.75 and the 66 for a while. Just now trying 8.5 with 55. Seems „flippier“ when trucks are smaller…
There is no such thing as "factory tightness" on the kingpin nut...I've bought many trucks from the manufacturer and some have been tightened 2-3 threads where others are barely on the kingpin...I think telling someone to just suffer through a few sessions is ridiculous, tighten or loosen them how you like them and skate em!
There might no be enough clearance between the hanger and the axle for both the speed rings wheels and bearing not allowing the nut to tighten all the way to plastic locking point in the nut and when it does it pinches the bearings and tights up the wheel
I ride an 8.5 board and I got the AF1 60 (8.75”). And they fit absolutely perfect.
I'm planning on buying the 60's and putting them on my 8.5 board too
I believe you installed the HSR rails, let's say in the "B" position (I don't want to say wrong :-) because in fact there is a B position). Those rails are slightly tilted following the concave of the board in order to have a flat (and more stable) contact surface once installed. The longer side must be facing the outside edge of the deck. There are arrows inside the rails that help. Maybe you missed them. Ron Whale explains this much better than me in his "Fun with rails!" YT video. About the trucks, nothing to say, I've been riding those ACE for a while now :-). Cheers!
I always ride my trucks slightly wider than what my deck is at the back truck. 8.5 deck, 8.75 trucks. Shaped deck 8.75 at the back truck area 9 inch trucks.
Super simple fix is you should of flipped the axle nuts around so the nylon would grip the threads more. I had to do the same back in the day with a super thrashed axle.
Try some Lil Jawns rails they seriously the best. They have some with the beveled edge too.
I’ve come round the the AF1s over the last couple of days. I got the AF1s when they first came to Europe. Was hyped for them but those super squishy standard bushings quickly quelled said hype. Couldn’t skate them and could barely stand still on the board without wobbling. Tried using other harder bushings but it felt off. So almost immediately went back to Indies. Then the Hard replacement bushings made their way to Europe and I was stoked again but didn’t give the Aces a solid run anyways for some reason and still felt they were too unstable for me.
But I’ve been riding them for a couple of days now with the Hard bushings and so far they have really grown on me. I even went back to Indies today and was amazed that I felt the Indies were a bit sluggish on the turn by comparison. That’s a first for me to have Indies not feel like a fantastic turning truck.
Kind of wish I had the AF1 Hollows though because I’m sure that little bit extra weight being taken off would make the AF1s feel like true goldilocks territory to borrow a Ben Degros setup term.
Hi Zack do you use spacers for the wheels/bearings? If not maybe you should try it. I like silver trucks it so clean and right,Al though I like my new Indy mids primitive Gold also.
Nice Rock music in this video 👍
Hard to imagine someone not liking the AF1’s… they are the best truck… I’ve yet to try the hollows
Damn you had the same problem with the axle nut coming off? I had the hollows for 2 weeks before I noticed it. Hit up Ace and they sent me a new set and so far haven’t had any further issues. I’m reading here people are saying it’s the nut and not the axle but I had to replace the nut while skating on two occasions in one session from a separate pair of old AF1’s so I do think their first run of these trucks might just have a few stinkers on the market
Ace AF1s with the Hard 94D bushings are so fire.
Man that slide and roll was incredible 🔥🔥🔥
Zach brotha, hear me out.... In the future, can you review mini logo trucks.... I freaking love these trucks.... The are close to thunders because they sit lower than other brands... But I think u may actually like them... And as far as your wheel troubles - spacers could possibly fix the problem...
What a surprise that not adding unnecessary extra washers fixed your problem
Your trucks are already wider than your board to begin with so it really wasn’t needed
It’s got to be the plastic inside the axle nut If you want to run the spacers you should put a little thread tape on the end of the axle And that will keep it from coming off
I love my af1s I’ve been skating the same pair for about a year
I'm still grinding my ace 55 classics that I bought last year, the groove is nice and deep so that locking in on the coping is effortless now
I use freestyle wheels and have to use extra washers to push out my wheels and I use special nuts to compensate for how many washers I have to use.. Before I switched to a slimmer nut, one of the nuts on actually fell off mid street session due to it being unable to grip with how pushed out the wheels were. It sounds very similar to the trouble you had.
just wanted to point out for the santa cruz rails they're actually supposed to go the other way. If you look on the bottom it will say outside on the one side and that side is supposed to be facing outward. I'm sure it doesn't matter at all but just wanted to see if you were aware of it or not!
Had no clue!
I had 2 washers on the inside of my Ace Hollows as well, and one of the nuts came off twice in my session also. But love the trucks.
Update, took the extra washer out and the axle nuts stay on no problem. So now just using the 2 speed washers for each wheel the trucks came with.
Sounds like because of the extra washers the nylon locking portion of the nut wasn't fully engaging to lock them in place. There is always slight variations in dimensions with wheels, bearings and axle widths. Sometimes I can fit 3 washers but I usually only put 2 on the hanger side of the wheel just to push my wheels slightly further apart. But if I'm using a truck with and axle width that's wider than the deck size I will put 1 washer on the inside and 1 washer on the outside of the wheel.
The nut on my af1’s came off while I was crooked grinding. I noticed some of the other nuts were loose as well. I put on standard axle nuts and havent had any issues.
I'm riding a 10" Heroin right now with AF1 77's. I absolutely LOVE it. I usually ride 8.25 with 149 Thunder hollows
i just setup a heroin wide boy with ace 80s and they feel amazing
I'm only at 13:27 so maybe you resolved this nut-slippage problem later in the video but... if the nut issue is on the same axle point that was causing your wheel to jam earlier in the video... the issue might be the thread on that side of the axel. Test it by putting on a nut from the opposite side of the axle - a nut that is NOT slipping. If you still have the same issue with the new nut it's probably a problem with the thread on the axle on the trouble side.
Really diggin your whole vibe… and think that you do one main thing that’s huge when giving a subjective “view”, which you stated - you actually skate em a hot minute.
It’s easy to love or hate something like “dragons” on first impression. Especially, new things… almost always gonna dislike the change.
-For instance, I personally don’t dislike em a month later … but I’m on my 99 spits again. 🤷🏻♂️
Basically, you’re logical and I appreciate that even if it’s very detailed … but I have an attention span and passion is passion so I dig that aspect. And got the time. I just skate and said fuck work at 46. Shit ends up how it ends up regardless. No point stressing a thing. One thing you learn by 46.
This all makes trusting your view easier. Certainly more than others even if it’s different than mine, and we ride total diff setups. I can use your info and know it’s accurate based on you and that helps me figure out better what I’d like. If that makes sense ?
Perfect example was the “if you stack spacers” part. You also say “wide wheels” and my spits are 54 conical wides.
Easy option nixed right there.
Also, why I am here… I am between slappy and classic hi?!?!? Tough choice and I already know me…. I’ll have multiples of both within 4 months😆 I surf so surfy slappy style is how I skate…
Anyway, Def a new sub and you’re making me miss my mid 90’s life in mission beach. Daewon used to skate 3 streets away on the norm.
I learned so much about skating in Diego…. Mainly “go fast and when you think it’s too fast… speed up”
Rad channel 🤘🏼
I didnt' try ACE trucks yet, only rode them once on a friends board, which also had a short wheelbase, it was turning like a surfskate :D but I guess they would be perfect with the 94a replacement bushings, or even better - the 94a replacement bottom with the 91a standard top bushing, and a 14.5" or 14.75" wheelbase (for the 9" AF1)
So you would recommend getting the Ace 60 AF1 Hollow for a 8.5" deck?
Appreciate your content!
I love when everyone is like I skate an 8.8 and I say why don't you just get a 9.0?? And they say that it's too heavy lol. By love I mean cringe, and time to bounce from the park
Don’t know what the problem with the nut is. You should write to ace. I however know that I just got my first pair and I LOVE THEM.
weird abt the nuts, my aces have been solid since the day i got them. skated them out the box for some weeks then gave them half a round of tightening. i have definetly found my truck. i can land more tricks since i can just turn out if i land sketchy, i do lots of slappys and skate tight banks and that is where they shine. sometimes they feel a bit scary while bombing hills, but i have gotten used to it
So for me going from indys to thunder after over a decade i hated it and tried to get indys again immediately. Local shop had ace. They LEAN further for how much they turn. I feel like they turn same enough to indy but lean further to get it. Absolutely skateable. Thunders might be redeemable with an angled riser.
Sup man! Can i use these trucks in longboard riding? I want to buy a big wheels and ride. Or are they not good for it? Maybe they aren't agile enough
Buys a precision product then adds multiple extra washers and complains. Then complains because the precision doesn't have wheels hanging out like the good ole days when all trucks were designed for bowls. Seriously guy is making up dramas to extend time and cause click bait .. that sheet never lasts
Andy Anderson explains how to mount rails in order to a avoid rattle.
First break the screws lightly in the deck. Then unscrew them and sand the wood by the holes down. Then install the rails with the screws all the way.
Ace and indy turn to much for me. But I was intrigued by the ace low.
Not sure if I'm understanding your problem correctly, but do you use bearing spacers with your bearings (between the bearings/inside the wheel)? I did a vid where I talk about how bearing spacers, along with one washer on either side of your wheel, allows you to snug the nut down more and have the wheel still spin freely (assuming your bearings are good and not overly packed with grease or dirt and are installed straight in your wheels). Spacers make a solid connection between the truck hanger and the nut and everything in between and also help ensure that your bearing is spinning around the inner race, rather than the race spinning around the axle, which is inefficient and can heat up your axle. My vid is here: th-cam.com/video/S-00e5ARyHk/w-d-xo.html.
Is it true that bushing get tighter. I started with indys hollow but the bushings seemed way to soft anf the board seem to angle to hard with my weight pretty thin but tall and close to 200. I switched to dog doh 98d and seem way more stable.
Hi Zack, was had the same habit to put two washers inside and one outside - and had the exact same issue to the point one wheel was falling off. Since I made 1 + 1, no problem at all.
I really like your little local park and how lucky you are to have it all to yourself 😊
Much respect on your in depth review.
I have been on AF1 66's since the drop.
I have worked in carpentry and plumbing which helped me recognize the nut issue right away.
AF1 axle nuts are cut as if they are a die used to cut threads into metal. The issue is the cuts in the nut that simulate a die reduce thread on thread contact. The axle nuts are too soft to cut threads so essentially it is a gimmick gone wrong.
Additional issues: Axle's can be slightly off center in the hanger leaving one side long/short (I have one set with this issue and it rides fine but I am not as gnarly and i use bearing spacers to fully tighten wheels). I think the nylock used in all the nuts provided are subpar and within a month swapped them out for quality stuff from a hardware store.
Fun facts on my AF1 journey: I really dig flat washers both top and bottom (smooths out carves, oem cupped washers make a carve feel like it has stages of resistance). The bushings hold up amazing well. Even with a crack or deformation its as if nothing has changed with how they feel. I wasted time and money playing with different bushing only to accept the oem bushings as magical and eventually crave more looseness via flat washers.
Thanks again for putting out quality content.
The turns on these are very very good. They respond exactly how you want, I swear
That Rock n roll slide was so sick!🤯🔥🔥🔥
I’m a very low impact middle aged person, but I’ve managed to blow out both my bottom stock bushing and pivot cup after maybe 6 hours of skating on these. I’m also getting a weird clicking sound when I turn. Never had that problem before.
Sounds like manufacturing defect. I’d send em In for a replacement or refund
@@Pterodactylphenylalanine I feel bad I never took that comment down. It definitely was a weird defect. Ace was really great about sending a new set and they’re perfect.
i'm sure this has been mentioned but one issue with those castellated type nuts, aside from general tolerance issues, is the lack of surface area to engage with external thread on axle. if you want to run those just pre apply loctite blue to them and they should stay put (and will easily come off with a skate tool)
Loctite blue is an adult solution. Or a little bit of twine
where can i get a helmet like that?
I think he is wearing a Protec full helmet. You can get it at the Protec website or I've seen some skate shops with them.
Probably axle slip
The Nylock was not able to engage the axle threads obviously. Sometimes I think you play the dumb card for comments…. If so well played sir.
I feel like my knowledge on trucks just gives me an opportunity to show that I don't know everything? I try not to pretend like I do. I debate taking out my mistakes but then hope maybe it could be helpful to someone.
@@ZackDowdy ps your not dumb ❤️
It’s not the spacers. I purchased the AF1 hollows as well and had my wheels fall off multiple times. The standard af1 axles don’t do it so I think the hollow axles are just a tad smaller which causes the nut to not be snug.
That is a really nice setup with the white polar and hollow AF1 66s. I have classic 55s on my 8.75 flight deck and I love how it skates! And 15" wb doesn't get too wide with Ace trucks
I bought the 33 Aces about 6-7 months ago even though I ride an 8.25 board. I had the same problems with the nut falling loosening and over tightening by itself causing me to break one of my bearings recently. I did just buy a complete with 44 hollow ACES, so they will fit my board size now. I am curious to see if they will have the same wheel nut problem or not.
I'm Rocking the Thunder Titanium Light's 147's with Bones Hard Bushing's they last the longest and Riptide Pivot Cups and with all custom Titanium Hardware straight from Japan I'm talking all the way down to the bushing cups to the 7/8th's hardware to the 4 Axle nuts even the tiny little 4 nuts are titanium that screw on the 7/8th's hardware and it's even got a custom titanium hollow Kingpin from Japan custom made yeah were talking 1 of a kind trucks here Rust free and Extra Extra Strong no more snapping hardware here! on some Bones Swiss Ceramics $160 bearings and some spitfire formula 4's sorry guys didn't mean to shine on ya to hard lol but my setup is next Lvl. not even pro skaters got this type of setup my setup is Crazy wild Banana's lol my board is a Creature 8.25 Vx and MoB Griptape! Not to mention i got sk8kings Steel Bearing spacers its helps put less stress on the bearings don't buy aluminum bearing spacers they will shred inside your bearings and destroy them! also i don't hear about a lot of people rocking the bearing spacers it will save your bearing's and they will last a lot longer.
Im just getting started and only tried indy forged hollows so fsr but ordered some ace af1 55 to try. They seem very similar to indays with a slight adjustments.
Ye
Would you recommend these trucks with a Girl/Chocolate deck? They’re pretty mellow
Go to your hardware store and get some new lock nuts with thin profile. Alternatively use some locktight
Last ditch solution is to get nylock "jam nuts." Jam nuts are just shorter (fewer threads). Or grind the nuts down on the backside a few threads (pita).
Ahhhh shit Zack, you've convinced me... might as well buy a set then for my next up and coming board! They look sick! 😍💯👍🛹
I’ve been skating the AF1’s since they came out on two different boards and haven’t had this problem, but I also just run the washers normally. That sucks dude.
You should always run bearing spacers and washers with your wheels and you can put as many washers on your axel to keep the axle nut flush to the axle end to reduce impact damage.
To keep the truck bushing untighten is a myth and makes no sense, bushing are all rubber which means you can replace and tighten or loosen them any way you like, they are a wear and tear part, like everything else on a skateboard, and depend on their quality how long they will last and degrade regardless, you get what you pay for and why bones bushing is the most expensive at $10 for 2.
BTW you can use Indy base plates and Ace base plates and kingpins with your $90 Lurpiv truck hangers lol and they will work just fine without the Lurpiv king pin issue, essentially you have paid for 2 Lurpiv hangers for $90 with bad base plates due to bad engineering and design to their kingpin 🤣 but at least you can make use of the hangers so it's not a complete waste of $90, I would just swap out your old worned out classic Ace hangers with your Lurpiv hangers and use them on your old classic Ace baseplates, might as well since you have them and already wasted the $90 on them lol.
th-cam.com/video/1HX3VjLJzHA/w-d-xo.html
U can always tell when someone has been riding Ace classic 55s for so long! I got thrown off too when I made the switch to AF1s. I ordered some 55s that came with snot boogerthanes & the 8.5 axle had me steamin! Got new hangars from JT
Shoe goo will fix the loose nut. If you look the nut comes with a glue already on which keeps them fixed. Nuts without that seal/glue don’t stay fixed.
So just a little more glue will fix this.
Let’s try mini logo 8’75 !! Apparently Banger !
i think you overestemate how big 1/4th of an inch is. its tiny. its 6mm. devided by 2 means its only 3mm per side. thats about half your axel nut at best.
I can't not pick independent 144 lows. These look simular in shape so I bet they gotta be good. I just kinda dig the Super round bulky truck. I saw destructos doing the same thing but I feel like I'd just pick indy over destructo any day. It's just gotta be a better quality.
Hey Zack! Quick question. After breaking down the Ace trucks did you then adjust them to your liking? The reason I'm asking this is because I do like my trucks looser than normal but when I'm fake on transition I feel a bit wobbly. Is it just a matter of getting used to it or do you recommend adjusting the trucks? I know it's personal preference but I would still like your opinion on this.
I just tried breaking them in doing some flat ground but I’m pretty sure I overtightened them and already blown out the bushings because I like tight trucks. I’ll swap them for hard bushings and see if they’re better
I want to know what your opinion is on the style and feel of sitting on a grind with trucks wider than the board, like me, I really like how the 8.5"ers feel on an 8.25 deck.
I feel like you wanted to like them but the reality of the axel nuts loosing by themselves really bummed you out.
I hate old trucks when any of the screws holes widen. And it can really make it want to mere to the right or left. Find Dat job tho.
where can i get a helmet like that?
it's called a Protec full cut.
@@Jesticles85 That's it!
Not following on how these would be worse for wider wheels, the built in bearing retainer should be the same width as any other wheel. Shorter wheel stubs should be beneficial, with the nut and stub tucked in further you have less chance to mess up threads. That boardslide was sick
one washer on each side, always use bearing spacers. I noticed on all of my sets of ACE, the axels and nuts are machined so well the threads have to break the edge of the nut to lock.
Threading on the nut is gone. No resistance from nylon on new nut means defect on manufactures side or has been used.
You can take your axle nut itself and put it in a vise and smash it a bit, makes it tighter to put back on, or you can take a small file and bugger up a tad bit on the inside of the axle nut makes it lock on like a new nut. Cheers
Just get a set of Indy’s, problem solved 😂
Cool thing I found out for me and my weight, was after putting bones hards in, and tightening the bolt perfectly flush with the kingpin, it was the perfect tightness, it is truly a beautiful thing
Hi @zack , what ist your wheel diameter? Cheers Chris
Just a side note, the Ace classic 66 are just under 9.5"
Trucks slightly bigger than the board is the way to go!
Love how you blue’d out the Indy sticker on your helmet😂
Can you do a back side five O to front side grind over a spine
Ride my AF1s with both stock washers (aka speed rings) between the hanger and the wheel (to push the wheel out a bit) and never had any issues with the nut getting loose. You just have to make sure that the *entire* width of the red nylon lining is screwed on the full sized part of the axle (not on the axle's tapered tip, this doesn't count) as this is what keeps the nut tight.
It must be an issue with the axle not being thick enough or the new nuts design, because they do get loose
Every one loves to skate a pipe I have not heard of one lately that is skateable
that red nut is for re threading not for keeping the wheel on
Too many washers. There is only enough room for two.
Man that slide and roll was incredible 🔥🔥🔥
man i wanna try these but i ride tensors and it makes no sense to go heavier.
Yeah bro so good from Costa Rica 🇨🇷
Zack, turn your nuts around.XD
The tip of the axle is only 0.1" out on each side.