Keep an eye on the driveshaft. The CV balls were carrying the same current as everywhere else on this ground path. EDM will quickly erode metals irrespective of how hard and resistant they are in normal wear. Large electric motor bearings often fail this way once they develop a ground loop.
Yeah was gonna mention this also, seen older alternators, stators and starters with round ball bearings wear out after this from all the balls welding Can generally diagnose just by lifting the car and spinning the wheel, bearing will make unhappy noises if it has done so
It looks like you really should have taken a leaf out of the guys at BOM and over engineered a bracket :) Glad that nothing went terribly wrong with Harry and that it was an easy enough fix
My mini and I've installed a 120A circuit breaker (can probably get bigger for your car) right near the battery then insulated the positive terminal well to stop any accidents. Another positive is it's really easy to punch the button to disconnect the battery either to stop the battery going flat or as another layer of theft protection. I'm not 100% auto electrician could advise but I think it could also go on the earth side and remove any vulnerability except directly shorting the battery terminals.
A relevant story. I have a 2009 Jaguar XJR, I took it in for a transmission fluid/filter change. I started having ABS light come on, then after a week I started getting this clunk to downshift to 1st. Took it back, no progress. Finally the battery died, as I pulled the battery to replace it I noticed the + lead was loose. In any case the problem wasn't the battery, but the alternator went bad. I replaced alternator/battery and all problems went away. So you should thoroughly check your alternator to be sure you haven't damaged it. One loose connection cost $1,100.
Have you gone around the car and checked all your cables are properly clipped and supported ?As someone else has said all wiring should be protected by a fuse. Cables like the alternator one, that have current from both ends, should have fuse protection both ends.
YO, JEFF !! I LOVE YOU. The Alferrari project taught me so much. You inspire me more than any other car-tuber. I've got a Range Rover Classic, an Alfa GTV-6, which are both getting the "HOME BUILT" treatment. Much gratitude.
Geez, that was a lucky escape. I once saw a '73 era 911 burning to the ground when I was driving back from Le Mans. I still get distressed thinking about it 20 years on 😢
Good work but I hope that was a negative and not rhe power so close to the body connecting to the battery I would line the battery box with plastic some how
G'day Jeff, It sucks that Harry broke down but I think it highlights that with these old cars we have wiring should be on top of our list. I think your rear wiring should be re visited again. Maybe use some heat wrap. With my own experiences I've learnt that always over engineer with wiring. (Without going silly of course) ✌️ Peace from Melbourne. 3810.
I'd have to say Jeff, as an auto electrician you make a great fireman. Don't give up the day job, you might be called to put out a Porsche fire one day. Poor old Harry slowly "frying" himself. And good that you're onto the problems.
I would put contact grease (Liqui Moly 330) or copper paste (Liqui Moly 3080) on the battery terminals to reduce contact resistance and prevent corrosion. Works great for years on my vehicles. Pole grease, on the other hand, is not electrically conductive and is only effective against corrosion; it should only be applied when the terminal and battery pole are already firmly connected.
I would also make sure you don't have oxidation I would sand everything so you have a good connection I would also want to find a way to cover those terminals and that janky wire on the left isn't ideal I wouldn't want a wire scraping a wall. Dilectric grease is also your friend.
Whenever you experience excessive heat regarding an electrical connection is is caused by a poorly mad connection. Fire sometimes results. I would suggest you review other connections you have made to see if heat damage is occurring elsewhere.
I switched to Nomex Jacketed, Tefzel Insulated Stranded Mil Spec cable for battery cables 25 years ago, still like new on all my vehicles, basically impervious to everything except to chomping drive shafts 😁👍
Instead of having multiple cables going to the battery terminals, run a short cable from the battery terminal to a bus bar and branch out to the multiple high draw connections away from the battery terminals. Will make it more reliable and easier to connect/disconnect the battery 👍
Honestly these are the repairs I like to have on the side of the road It’s a pain, but very quick and easy to fix Worst part is the drive home hoping you aren’t going to break anything else had a hpfp leak after swapping a new set on my Car Didn’t notice it until 3 hours in to a drive when my eyes started burning whenever the car was still Was so scared driving home, literally 1/20th of a turn in about 3 seconds with a crows foot wrench once I got home to fix it, thought I was going to set the engine ablaze 😂 (Life lesson learnt)
You can get really nice fused battery terminals on ebay for like $30, they look pretty clean too as it's all hidden under a red cover right on top of the battery post.
This is spooky. On Friday morning here in Auckland NZ I passed an orange 70s 911 broken down on the motorway. There was a driveshaft in the middle of the 'fast' lane. 😬😬😬😬
I agreecwith the below, equal current willhave passed thru the path of least resistanse, and that is bearings in all directions. Keep track on magnet plug in gearbox and check thecv joints for ” welding spots” in the races. I guess the gearbox will be the shortest way to ground as the wheel side is isolated by the bushings in the suspension.
I had a similar problem on an old Mini... the positive cable from the battery in the boot dropped, and touched the exhaust... It soon melted its insulation, and shorted out.... but only under harsh acceleration, when the exhaust moved a bit... took me bloody ages to diagnose!
"It burns when I pee". It would be divorce if I wore that. I can just imagine the look on Mrs Jeff's face the first time she saw that. And I am sure she didn't buy it for you either. As for the alternator cable buy a lottery ticket mate. Cheers.
Electrifying update 👍 very lucky escape, show's how important the power is everything, a KJet would of just kept going 😂 Your going to owe me a lucozade, I fell asleep mid way and you've been on auto play for 5 hours!!! 😉
that battery cable is to close to the body, also run 250amp fuse either end, always a rule with old cars battery relocated to boot. fire extinguisher, or better a fireman goes a long way
You're lucky, with the little damage. Is the dust cover off the driveshaft not damaged? I don't know if have any voltmeter on your dashboard, but you have nice examples, you can put one your battery for a quick check if it's oke.
Keep an eye on the driveshaft. The CV balls were carrying the same current as everywhere else on this ground path. EDM will quickly erode metals irrespective of how hard and resistant they are in normal wear. Large electric motor bearings often fail this way once they develop a ground loop.
Yeah was gonna mention this also, seen older alternators, stators and starters with round ball bearings wear out after this from all the balls welding
Can generally diagnose just by lifting the car and spinning the wheel, bearing will make unhappy noises if it has done so
@@lawrencemercieca welded balls! 🤣🤣🤣🤣 If he has that, he's got bigger issues!! Sorry, couldn't help myself.
I have also seen this. Depending on where it found an earth, could be either through a gearbox bearing or wheel bearing.
Exactly, the bearing balls may be damaged by the high current.
It looks like you really should have taken a leaf out of the guys at BOM and over engineered a bracket :)
Glad that nothing went terribly wrong with Harry and that it was an easy enough fix
My mini and I've installed a 120A circuit breaker (can probably get bigger for your car) right near the battery then insulated the positive terminal well to stop any accidents. Another positive is it's really easy to punch the button to disconnect the battery either to stop the battery going flat or as another layer of theft protection.
I'm not 100% auto electrician could advise but I think it could also go on the earth side and remove any vulnerability except directly shorting the battery terminals.
A relevant story. I have a 2009 Jaguar XJR, I took it in for a transmission fluid/filter change. I started having ABS light come on, then after a week I started getting this clunk to downshift to 1st. Took it back, no progress. Finally the battery died, as I pulled the battery to replace it I noticed the + lead was loose. In any case the problem wasn't the battery, but the alternator went bad. I replaced alternator/battery and all problems went away. So you should thoroughly check your alternator to be sure you haven't damaged it. One loose connection cost $1,100.
Glad nothing catastrophic happened, now's a good time to go over all cable and hose management to make 100% sure it's all located safely and securely.
Have you gone around the car and checked all your cables are properly clipped and supported ?As someone else has said all wiring should be protected by a fuse. Cables like the alternator one, that have current from both ends, should have fuse protection both ends.
YO, JEFF !! I LOVE YOU. The Alferrari project taught me so much. You inspire me more than any other car-tuber. I've got a Range Rover Classic, an Alfa GTV-6, which are both getting the "HOME BUILT" treatment. Much gratitude.
Geez, that was a lucky escape. I once saw a '73 era 911 burning to the ground when I was driving back from Le Mans. I still get distressed thinking about it 20 years on 😢
Good work but I hope that was a negative and not rhe power so close to the body connecting to the battery I would line the battery box with plastic some how
G'day Jeff,
It sucks that Harry broke down but I think it highlights that with these old cars we have wiring should be on top of our list.
I think your rear wiring should be re visited again. Maybe use some heat wrap. With my own experiences I've learnt that always over engineer with wiring. (Without going silly of course)
✌️ Peace from Melbourne. 3810.
I'd have to say Jeff, as an auto electrician you make a great fireman. Don't give up the day job, you might be called to put out a Porsche fire one day. Poor old Harry slowly "frying" himself. And good that you're onto the problems.
I would put contact grease (Liqui Moly 330) or copper paste (Liqui Moly 3080) on the battery terminals to reduce contact resistance and prevent corrosion. Works great for years on my vehicles. Pole grease, on the other hand, is not electrically conductive and is only effective against corrosion; it should only be applied when the terminal and battery pole are already firmly connected.
I would also make sure you don't have oxidation I would sand everything so you have a good connection I would also want to find a way to cover those terminals and that janky wire on the left isn't ideal I wouldn't want a wire scraping a wall. Dilectric grease is also your friend.
Whenever you experience excessive heat regarding an electrical connection is is caused by a poorly mad connection. Fire sometimes results. I would suggest you review other connections you have made to see if heat damage is occurring elsewhere.
Nice Nick Murray t-shirt Jeff... lol... went down the rabbit hole to find him on you tube.... have a great road trip!!!
I switched to Nomex Jacketed, Tefzel Insulated Stranded Mil Spec cable for battery cables 25 years ago, still like new on all my vehicles, basically impervious to everything except to chomping drive shafts 😁👍
Instead of having multiple cables going to the battery terminals, run a short cable from the battery terminal to a bus bar and branch out to the multiple high draw connections away from the battery terminals. Will make it more reliable and easier to connect/disconnect the battery 👍
Honestly these are the repairs I like to have on the side of the road
It’s a pain, but very quick and easy to fix
Worst part is the drive home hoping you aren’t going to break anything else
had a hpfp leak after swapping a new set on my Car
Didn’t notice it until 3 hours in to a drive when my eyes started burning whenever the car was still
Was so scared driving home, literally 1/20th of a turn in about 3 seconds with a crows foot wrench once I got home to fix it, thought I was going to set the engine ablaze 😂
(Life lesson learnt)
Probably a good idea to fuse the cable, I have a 400A fuse on my battery cable, and it works without issue. Lucky you didnt loose her.
You can get really nice fused battery terminals on ebay for like $30, they look pretty clean too as it's all hidden under a red cover right on top of the battery post.
@@jamesinc87 That's what I used from the sounds of it. Cheap protection.
Glad to see Harry's ok but i would check the cv joints for any damage before the long road trip. 🌋
You may wanna fit an inline Maxi Fuse to the main positive cable, you can get them in 250A and higher
Better option use 2 fuses one at the battery and one at the alternator,
🚨Lucky it did not catch on fire🚨 Would suggest. go to a welding shop ,get some silicone high temperature welders cable .
Or Kevlar tube wrap.
Conduit on those wires will help protect them.
Glad it all worked out! Such a beautiful car.
Great to hear you are doing the Adelaide Rally! Can't wait to see Harry in the flesh!
From memory, that cable from the alternator to the starter isn't normally long enough to tangle with the drive shaft. What a strange one to encounter!
chapters, or whatever they are seem to be funky.
This is spooky. On Friday morning here in Auckland NZ I passed an orange 70s 911 broken down on the motorway. There was a driveshaft in the middle of the 'fast' lane. 😬😬😬😬
I agreecwith the below, equal current willhave passed thru the path of least resistanse, and that is bearings in all directions. Keep track on magnet plug in gearbox and check thecv joints for ” welding spots” in the races. I guess the gearbox will be the shortest way to ground as the wheel side is isolated by the bushings in the suspension.
I had a similar problem on an old Mini... the positive cable from the battery in the boot dropped, and touched the exhaust... It soon melted its insulation, and shorted out.... but only under harsh acceleration, when the exhaust moved a bit... took me bloody ages to diagnose!
All that current through your cvs and bearings. You will have damage in there so you should check before you have another failure.
"It burns when I pee". It would be divorce if I wore that. I can just imagine the look on Mrs Jeff's face the first time she saw that. And I am sure she didn't buy it for you either. As for the alternator cable buy a lottery ticket mate. Cheers.
Good to hear you dodged a bullet there, and that you had your mate there to assist 🇦🇺👍
How come you didn't use any heat shrink or protective sheathing on the cable mate?
Lucky break there Jeff.
Problem solving at it's best. 👍
Nice car drives well and sounds good, make sure all your other electrical connections are sound. Thanks
Glad you got it sorted! Good luck on your rally.
Great video Jeff, glad you got it home and it was a straight forward fix! 🎉🙌🏼
It could have been much worse. I was very lucky ;)
I recommend dissembling and inspecting the balls in the CV joints. Electricity is not kind to the items it passes through.
Electrifying update 👍 very lucky escape, show's how important the power is everything, a KJet would of just kept going 😂
Your going to owe me a lucozade, I fell asleep mid way and you've been on auto play for 5 hours!!! 😉
Why not protect the alternator cable with a flexible plastic sleeve over the bottom section of the cable. Hopefully you solved all the gremlins
Nice repair 🙌
Air duct may need a re-route around the starter by the looks of it
that battery cable is to close to the body, also run 250amp fuse either end, always a rule with old cars battery relocated to boot. fire extinguisher, or better a fireman goes a long way
Geez! All that current went through your drive train and possibly engine...
Roland
Sydney Australia
LoL @ your Nick Murray shirt. Small world...our car community is.
Absolutely. Love Nick's shirts :D
Glad it was not a bigger deal than it was.
Any chance you can deepen the exhaust sound of Harry?
Your shirt made me laugh! Nice to see that Nick's t-shirts get some use 😆
You're lucky, with the little damage. Is the dust cover off the driveshaft not damaged? I don't know if have any voltmeter on your dashboard, but you have nice examples, you can put one your battery for a quick check if it's oke.
Hey Jeff why don't you put heat shrink on he terminals? Is the section of the cable too big? Or maybe it isn't useful?
How did it manage to get in contact with drive shaft
I better go check the cables on my Beetle
Lucky escape Jeff but main thing both u and Harry are ok
Harry was just jealous of all the attention the Alfararri has been getting lately.
Is there a screw missing for the drive shaft at the right hand of the screen at 3:07 ?
Or is it an optical illusion?
The drive shafts only have 4 bolts. The other 2 holes have dowels.
And you couldn't get a drink at The Tuena pub
Did you dial 9 1 1?🤔
It wouldn't do me much good in Australia ;) (our emergency number is 000)
Thankfully a nice cheap fix!
That is a truly woeful shirt…
No heat shrink!!!!???? Noooooooooooooo!!!!
Shouldn’t this episode be called ‘How did it run?’😊
The same thing happened to my Saab 9-3 Convertible. It burned to the ground.
:(
How much magic smoke got out?
Two beauty´s in this video! ;)
Assuming you keep a fire extinguisher in Harry for a worse case scenario 🤔???
Always
I think the issue is it's orange. I've never had any luck with orange cars.
It's the orange sheath of the cable that is the problem; Jeff should have stuck with purple tartan 😀
Jeff, what up with the T shirt?
Ahhh ... yikes? Glad all turned out ok ... electrical gremlins are the worst to troubleshoot ...
Looks like I now have another that is going to drive me crazy..
Have you killed Harry 😱😱😱😱😱
In the video when u repair "Harry" u referring to the car as "she" maybe Harry should be renamed to Harriet 😊
Cystitis.
Хорошо что не сгорел
Harry is jealous...too little attention...to much goes to a yellow...thing..
Ummm, wtf is up with that shirt!!!? 🤣
Check out Nick Murray's channel ;)
It burns when you pee? I suggest you get medical advice, oh and hands off misses Jeff until further notice...
👍🏻🍺👏
Everyone knows only EVs catch fire. Don't be so dramatic.
Hope you didn't partake of any alcoholism beverages, cause we don't want you appearing in Australia's worst drivers on utube