You’re building cabinets door wrong
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- 3 simple ways to build your own shaker style cabinet doors and drawers!
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I was a finisher of MDF doors for 8 years at a high end custom shop, and here are my tips:
Round your edges! If you have a router, a 1/16 roundover is easy to do for the outside edges, and for the inside edges, just some 180 grit paper and 2 or 3 passes is all thats needed. This will help minimize potential cracks in the paint as it dries and shrinks.
Light coats of primer are key! Do 1 coat for the back, ensuring even coverage. You're not going to be looking at the back much, so it's not as important. The front should get 2 coats with a sand in between.
When sanding primer: KEEP IT LIGHT! The aim is to smooth out the peaks, not sand down to a glorified fill job. Sand through is the enemy. By keeping the sanding light, you have more primer for your paint to bond with. The door should still be completely white. It doesn't have to be perfect, but it does need to still be as white as possible while being smoothed out.
Before you paint, another SUPER light sand is needed to scuff the primer. We generally used Scotch Brite (burgundy colour) with a light wipe basically. This will increase the surface area for your paint to stick to. Do this between every coat to keep the bond strong.
Happy Dooring!
Thanks for the painting tips! I honestly think that painting is the most difficult part of "building" cabinets. ;)
Great tips. 99% of the Earth's population doesn't know this and painters will hate you for sharing this.
Thanks
Good stuff thanks for sharing!
Is not sanding in-between coats the reason my cabinet paint isn't scratch proof?
I am a Brit, who is a time (not that sort of time!) served Carpenter/Joiner who learns, enjoys and respects the honest approach to these videos. Learnt on imperial and metric.....potato/patato does it matter so long as you enjoy what you are doing! Great video looking forward to the next one. Cheers
I think you need to have a t-shirt that says, "I put the GFY in DIY". Another great video, obviously!
Hahahaha I love it
I would buy this shirt…
Showing good, better and best is a service to your viewers and Is much appreciated. Thank-you!
It allows newbies to see they can start woodworking with minimal tools and aspire to build with more complexity as time, money and desire permits.
I really enjoy how you show multiple options to get the same job done… makes woodworking far more accessible for people at different skill levels. I also enjoy the humour that you include in your videos. PS - your circular saw crosscut sled is a great idea!
* it also shows you why it’s worth taking the effort to set up a bit and build to Version3 levels: a much better looking door imho.
Though I’d build with ~1/4” material and fill the back with some 1/4” if needed for a drawer front.
"Senor Stumpy" lol I'm sure James will appreciate that. Somebody else referred to "that whiskey butterfly" guy in another video I watched the other day. hahahaha
That was Flynndogg Woodwork and his review of sanders.
Lost all respect for the alcoholic insect after he set a couple shops on fire for the clicks.
Thanks for making this video. I have some fancy tools, but I like this because you're not creating a problem and then solving it with some gadget you're selling. It's ... trustworthy.
Many years ago, I built cabinets in our living room. The doors were 1/2" MDF with a face-frame made of mitered baseboard molding. Super simple, and ended up a little fancier than shaker-style. After painting, they looked great. No one ever seemed to notice they were not "real doors." The only tools I had were a circular saw and hand-tools (not even a power sander). All it took was patience with the painting prep and they turned out awesome.
Here is a great tip i found on another site for making doors. Make the doors 1/4” bigger in both directions. Build the door the best you can. After the door is fully assembled cut the doors down to the final size. The joints will be perfect on the outside of the doors.
GFY! 😂 Love it. Adding that to my DIY vernacular.
SAME😂
I remember when you were starting out and looking a bit nervous. If I’m honest I only watched occasionally but your videos are really good quality now. (Not that they were bad before)
One of my favourite American woodworking channel now. Keep up the good work!
7:00 I'd recommend putting a sealant on the MDF first before painting.
I needed to replace the baseboard in my bathrooms because the moisture ruined the MDF. However, I really like the profile of them.. So I tested a scrap piece by sealing it with a flex seal spraycan I had laying around and threw it in a tub of water for 24 hours. It was perfectly fine after that test.
Flexseal does add some texture to it but I'd imagine there's far better alternatives compared to what I had laying around.
I’m sure there’s a waterproof/sealing primer that works the same
I just use oil primer. Works as a sealant, and doesn't absorb
Just hard to find anymore with so many places banning it
You're correct, you don't need that pocket hole jig...but...you want that pocket hole jig! It puts a smile on my face every time I use it 💪❤️💪
Thanks!
@@axellajohannesson447 thank you!
I really love your videos and always can't wait for the next one. I learn, I laugh and I have fun, please don't stop.
Thanks for the kind words
This is one of the best videos I've seen on building doors and drawer fronts for beginners. You did an excellent job explaining and showing different methods that anyone can do. This is further proof that you don't need a bunch of specialty tools to get great results.
Putty and paint makes a woodworker what he ain't. We take pride in what we hide. Whatever rhyme you use is fine, as long as the product looks good in the end.
Great video on all the different techniques. When I first started woodworking I "updated" our cabinet doors to get a flat look. I used only MDF, no solid wood edging or anything. While they are still holding up 4 years later, I will never do it again.
Congrats on finishing a project, and thanks for making these videos. I feel motivated now.
Thank you so much. Go do it!
Love that you started with, just get some MDF and glue it together. Works. Starting with the cheapest, easiest way is such a great confidence builder
You forgot to address the commenters who will claim that you're not a real woodworker unless you can carve a full entertainment center from a block of wood using nothing but a prison shiv and a spool of twine....
you must be a NavyEOD tech or MacGyver
Damnit, good call
@@steveo9578 When asked what to use to hollow out for a wooden bowl I'll answer that you can use a gouge, an adze, a scorp, a travisher, a chainsaw, an Arbortech, a Dremel, a Foredom, a stairmakers rasp, a card scraper or a dull spoon. Using the spoon it takes longer.
You need a spool of twine? Psshhhh… amateur…
When I did 20+ doors for my kitchen remodel, I did a hybrid of your 2nd and 3rd methods, from a video I found from Saws on Skates. You make the poplar frame from your 2nd method, using pocket holes, but instead of rabbiting the panel into the back, you use a router table with a 1/4" straight bit to cut the panel groove on the inside of the frame (before you assemble), much like your interior groove from Build #3. The tricky part was dropping the stiles into the router bit so that you don't cut the groove from end to end. I think this method was overall faster than rabbiting the backside, looks nicer, and was convenient because I didn't own a table saw.
Great tips. I did once make doors using hand tools including a 50 year old hand plane to cut the grooves. I even cut mortice and tenon joints and all on a very wonky kitchen table. It was a lot of pain and effort so every subsequent door has been made with your second method! And once painted it’s very hard to tell the difference from the front.
I've no idea. Great job painting though. Good on you. Love your content, you make a wonderful teacher. ❤
If I can make a suggestion, try out Zinsser MH Ready Patch for a filler. It works well on both wood and walls. It has a bondo like epoxy composition, but is ready to go, and a little lighter. I like it for filling trim because it doesn't usually shrink and handles water a lot better at wipe-down before being primed. It's pretty cheap and sold at most box stores. I have about 10 different kinds from all over including a bunch of SW options, and MH is the best all-arounder to me.
Too many people think they "nailed it" because they finish a job, everything looks perfect, so they continue to use that system for all future jobs.
Then a couple years pass by and they realize that all their doors are warping, falling apart, discoloring, nail holes appearing, and they're getting endless phone calls from angry customers.
One of the things that isn't talked about enough is how wood/manufactured products will naturally change over time.
I made 6 6 foot wardrobe doors using basically method 1, with an extra cross rail in them. 2 things I did slightly differently. First, I made them all about 1/4" too big, then made a big circular saw jig thing so I could cut them down to the exact same size. This really helped when the glued-on face mdf wasn't perfectly aligned with the base door during the glue up and reduced how much edge filling I ended up having to do. Secondly, I cut a 15 degree bevel on all the interior sides of the rails and stiles. It made it more complicated,, especially getting the rails to fit, but the result just looks a lot better in my opinion.
Thanks John, I've been scratching my head (and procrastinating) for a few weeks now on how to build the doors on a cupboard project I've done. Plenty of ways to skin a cat! Love this style of video, I think I'm going to try both the basic and more advanced solution and see which I prefer. I need two doors after all!
I too purchased the Graco paint sprayer from Home Depot. My project was a fence but I've since used it for a shop cabinet and it's not half bad. It takes a little experimentation with the speed control but the result was much better than a brush or roller. There is a learning curve as you need to follow ALL of the instructions, and clean up is still a chore... but I like it.
That’s been my experience with it
ALL your videos are great and cover subject well. 👍 Thank you from retired
Finally, someone who understands the easy way to do a simple door.
Great video.
Great video with detailed explanation, and a hint of sarcastic remarks! Just what I was looking for! I'm going to be replacing some doors on my bathroom vanity so this video helped out tremendously!
Helpful and entertaining (as always). One thing I noticed when using the Kreg guide (at @4:12) is that you're relying on the piece being cut to act as your edge guide. Given that the guide extends the width of the MDF, you could extend the circular saw nearly to the end and that way you're not cutting off the piece being used as the edge guide. That way it's not falling off as you reach the end of your cut.
21:54 probably the best argument for metric system. :)
You should try a metric door and see how close it is to the inch door.
I agree. I am American and use Imperial, but since I bought a 3d printer a few years ago, I have been using metric for the prints. It is so much easier to use. Starting to use it more in woodworking too. But...everything is Imperial here, so mostly still use it in woodworking.
You take the crown in terms of project time, I am hobby woodworker and it took me only 9 months to do my double waterfall work desk. 🤣 But I love watching your honest and straightforward videos.
GFY at 5:20 was priceless...
I’ll reiterate a point John makes in the video …if you’re making doors for a high-traffic, high-moisture area, like a kitchen or bathroom, use real wood (or plywood) and not MDF. It’s more expensive upfront, but will save you time and money down the road. I recently replaced all the MDF cabinet doors and drawer fronts in my mother’s kitchen. They had swollen and warped because of the moisture over the years. I made the new ones from maple plywood and they turned out great. I used the stiles and rails method but I’m sure any of John’s techniques would work equally well.
You have the best stuff on youtube. Always informational and good for some laughs while you're at it.
Great video. Really helpful. It is just showing is no excuses to make some nice looking doors. Without professional tools.
Thank you Sir! I love how you spice up things with strategic woodworking humour! I wish I could like this 100k times
This dude is so smart. I mean it. All the self deprecating humor is help us dumb people relate more to him... Im convinced that most of the youtube wood workers are some of the smartest people on earth. Like comedians are ...its not what they do but the process and thought behind the explanation of why to do something in specific situations. Much respect. I know you're secret bud ... you're smart af
Damn. Just finished building my tool cabinet, sure would have looked nicer but would have also been heavier.
Gives us begineers a lot of convidence knowing that simple builds can look so good.
Thank you for your informative and entertaining videos.
Geetings from Nepal.
Not sure if I enjoy your knowledge or sense of humor, so I will continue to tune in and have the best of both world's!! Great job!
im going to download those plans, I got a circ, a jig, and a band saw ... other than a corded and cordless hobby drill its Dremel and hand tools for me ... thanks! (oh yea I do have a nice for the price router, 40-60 bucks gets you a decent machine new)
Great video. Simple, clear and practical. Woodworking should always follow the "form follows function" rule.
THANK YOU! I was today years old when I found you! I like watching the whole video through. I still have to go back to go over things I didn't catch the first time. Could you put in chapters or whatever it's called so it's faster to find?
Loved the video, it was very helpful. Haters will always hate because they have nothing better to do with their lives. Your followers don't listen to them anyway. Please keep the instructional videos coming
Smartest woodworker on TH-cam. Love the wit and humour.
appreciate the kind words. (But definitely not the smartest)
Funny and skilled. Enjoy the videos
Those look really good. Thanks for sharing the different methods.
Love this style of video showing different methods. I still don't own a router! As always, love your narration.
Thanks for the refresher-I have used all 3 methods
Consistently top quality content. Thank you as always.
Another great video, thanks. I am probably never going to build doors or cabinets, but I love watching your videos!
Glad you enjoy them!
I needed the back to be flushed and just went with dowels since I had a dowel jig. Worked well. So that's also a possibility if you like dowels
Thanks John, another great video!
Another great one and just in time as I’m making my building! Keep it up!
GFY - Good for you. That’s what I tell them anyway.
That was my first thought, until I thought some more.
Very well done video. Simple is good even for an advanced woodworker. 👍
Good tip with the DAP. I had never considered that before but with MDF and paint, why not? Looks fantastic!
Love your content, very informative and funny too! Thank you
I made door design number 3 a few months back and was puzzled that my grooves were tight in some places and loose in others. Turns out the stock I was using had thickness variation of around 1/32". Using this technique, the grooves were perfectly centered, but the width varied enough to be noticeable. Better stock or a thickness planer are the only solutions I'm aware of. Just something to watch out for. The doors turned out great otherwise.
😂😂😂 great video brother. I get the same comments about tools. I made a video saying I am going to start a channel showing how to build everything with butter knives!! 😂
Oh, you pragmatist, you! 🤣 🤣 🤣
Thanks for the advice, the humour, and the tips.
Love your humor. Great video
ah! Such a lovely build. Thank you for taking the complicated out of panel doors! I've always called those rail tongues "stub tennons". Not sure if that's what the masters call them. Don't much care. As long as it works, and we understand what is being described, I think that's what counts. Thanks again for another great video. :)
I really like listening to you explaining stuff.
@@AviusL thank you!
On the mdf cabinets, you can save yourself a ton of putty and sanding if you just make the back panel, rails and styles a bit wider and taller than you need, say 1/4". Once they're glued up take them to the table saw or track saw and cut 1/8" off each side. You'll get flush sides and tops with zero putty.
I 100% agree with buying used when starting out with exclusion to consumables like saw blades. My first miter saw was a Bosch 12" glide that I bought off Facebook Marketplace. If it still has the stock blade on it, throw it out immediately. A cheap Diablo blade is better than the stock blade. I sold the saw to another starting woodworker about a year after for the price I bought the saw at, when I jumped to a Kapex. Same for my first planer, it was a DeWalt 735.
I have built many doors using the beginner method, both for personal projects as well as for customers. Never had a complaint, nor an issue.
Yeah it’s a nice way to do it
Good follow up on your cabinet video and likewise very informative by giving us options.
I've used lots of expensive woods for cabinets/furniture and the look great. If I'm doing something that will be painted, MDF all day long!
Very good I like your delivery
I’m sitting in my unfinished laundry room looking for some motivation. That last line got me.
Don't have the tools or money to buy what you need? Some options:
1. See if you have a local library with a tool library near you.
2. Find woodworkers near you and borrow what you can.
3. Check and see if there are local makerspaces you could go to.
Most woodworkers I know fucking love helping people start out.
Great video John Thanks for sharing
Glad you liked it!
Looks nice!
I love the multi-level options and learning my new favorite text abbreviation GFY. 😂
Great video. Learned a lot from it. Thank you.
I know you’ve talked about your small shop a lot but have you ever discussed how you manage other tools/supplies etc for things other than woodworking? Kids toys, handyman tools for around the house, all the usual stuff that gets tossed in the garage - where do woodworkers put all that?
in the shed!
@ now that’s the shop tour I need to see!
Great video. I always enjoy your presentations! One small mention...MDF and Plywood dust are very toxic and will hang in the air for a good 4 hours. The particles go right through the usual dust collector bag, since they are smaller than 3 micron. Wear your mask until you can count on it all settling out, and/or then blow it out with a leaf blower into your neighbor's yard...especially if they have a barking dog that drives you nuts.
GFY. Perfect comment for all the gatekeepers out there. Just Awesome.
They all look good. I'm not going to guess. But 14 months on a laundry room!? My wife would be jealous that it could happen that soon!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Oh, and a great sense of humor to boot.
Enjoyed the video! I think the pro one is either a,b or c! Then again, I get into land wars with Sicilian's (yes, I know that isn't the correct quote).
Keep up the good work!
… “And to that, I say GFY…”
and just like that you became one of my favorite woodworking youtubers.
“Domestic terrorists” 😂
Make the doors 1/8" larger in every dimension - add that to the width of the stiles and rails, too. Glue it up, then cut it to actual size after it's dry. This will allow a decent amount of leeway when placing the stiles and rails, and should result in an edge that only needs sanding - no filler.
Good video, good lessons.
Great video. All 3 types or doors are great. Once painted, they'll look g8! But...I'd bet they will end up in a landfill...
GFY! jajajajajajajaja I'm going to use that! Also, good way to explain this
26:52 I would advocate for an HVLP and zinsser’s ‘Cover Stain’ primer - if priming. However, I’ve had EXCELLENT results with a waterborne alkyd ‘cabinet and trim’ paint either hvlp or a white foam “trim roller” applied straight up /as/ the primer. This yields a much smoother, durable, and washable finish than latex plus it has a far superior professional look to it. An hvlp takes best advantage of waterborne alkyd’s characteristic perfect finish.
FWIW Cover Stain as a first coat / primer is an excellent choice because it seals the surfaces with a very sandable base which often allows a wet-on-tacky final two coats, skipping one step of sanding- the waterborne alkyd lays down super smooth and dries to touch quickly but to be handled/installed it takes overnight to fully dry/cure. Skipping the drying/sanding between two final coats saves a ton of time or at least a day of waiting, and you only clean the gun once.
Well done!
When you measured for the panel on the last door at 21:40, you measured the opening then subtracted 1/8th of an inch from both dimensions. Then you cut the panel, inserted it into the groove in the rails and stile, and it was clearly wider than the opening. When did you factor in the depth of the groove?
I had the same question. Was wondering if I missed something
oh, good. I'm not the only one that noticed!
Nope I’m just an idiot and whiffed on the explanation while voicing it over. Forgot to say add 1” for the groove depth and then subtract 1/8th
I made MDF doors for a bathroom cabinet. I painted the with BIN shellac to act as a seal coat and then painted over top. After a year, the moisture still caused swelling. I remade the doors using exterior, or moisture resistant, MDF and now after 2 years there is no sign of moisture related swelling.
Great video, love your digs at the comment trolls :D
And to that I say...great writing! Good stuff, comrade. I *will* GFM 😀
Awesome stuff!
the best and my fav youtwoodworker
A is the high-end door. That’s my guess since the hole for the knob has been drilled. I’m renovating my shop (built drawer boxes yesterday). Great timing!
@@bjsmithart thanks! A is not the high end door though
@@Lincolnstwwha! Well done. The hole fooled me.