This is my very first time ever using the "Thanks Button" on TH-cam. And I do it, because I really appreciate your work developing this device and making it available to us. So: THANK YOU!
This channel should have milions of views god dang it youtube is just recomending junk with someone fakely restoring something not good videos like this one i freaking love this kind of videos keep it up and im thinking of building this tester as well :)
I am watching all of your videos, chronologically, from the beginning. Giving me so much nostalgia! You are the best electronics channel for me. So honest, so passionate, so authentic. Your stile and humour is unmatched, and your cat is amazing. My favourite videos are the ones in which you go back to basics. Since you have such a huge experience, your takes are always so rich and detailed, nicely explained, nicely drawn on paper, like good old times. I may suggest some cool and useful video ideas: - Video on DIY inductors, ferrite cores types and how to measure/calculate inductors and all the intuition. - Maybe the same with all the types of capacitors, their application, their construction, losses etc. - Video series on a DRSSTC, since you made the SSTC one! With all the experience on resonance circuits you may give the best interpretation of the coupling coefficient, frequency splitting, proper tuning, etc. - Video series on an even more bloody complex QCW DRSSTC! You would be able to simplify it so much. This would be the ultimate dream haha :D Keep it up man, you are a true inspiration.
Massive effort! Most interesting with a lot of information to take in. I appreciate how you explain what components can be used and the danger of using incorrect components. Cheers to the Cat. 😻💯
Your post-apocalyptic style combined with your good explanations makes your videos very charming. Also good to know that beryllium oxide helps in coping with the news!
You are 5 years too late for me I built one from Scullcom Hobby Electronics channel here on YT. Although I did build your coil tester last year and love it. Works like a charm...
Very nice! I think I might build this later as it's very nice to be able to measure battery capacity - also for matching cells when using them in a battery pack
It takes about one quarter of a kilowatt hour to boil off (completely) a coke can full of water. Given this, when making a dummy load (many years ago) I soldered the load transistors to a coke can and filled the can with water. 😂It gave my co-workers great amusement, but it worked really well. Best to use devices with Tj_max = 175degC though. Of course, I had to use luminimum solder (Multicore "Alusol" - it's fantastic stuff, well worth buying a roll).
Last year I was inspired by your original design and made my own battery tested that I can also use as an constant current load (in this mode it doesn't turn off when the voltage drops). Mine is tho quite different. On the outside I have a rotary encoder instead of push buttons and my display is only 3 digits. On the inside is even more different. I used and arduino nano and lm358 op-amp. It doesn't have the offset null function but that's mostly okay bacause I feed the voltage of the shunt back to the arduino so I have an accurate measurement even if the current is not set properly. It's especially helpful at low voltages when the taster can't sinc the set current because I am using a darlington and the op-amp can't go to vcc. For the ADC voltage reference I use the built-in 1.1V reference so at full current I still get 9 bits of resolution (0.5V / 1.1V), which I think is plenty because the resolution of the PWM is only 8 bits. Another major difference is a 2nd transistor that I added in series to the collector of the first one, which follows the voltage of the battery and splits it in half between the 2 transistors so the dissipation is shared. I've found a very sensitive MOSFET on AliExpress, it's IRLB3034 (turns on at about 2V), I don't remember if it's specified for DC. I am using it as the 2nd transistor. I haven't used the tester much but looks like it works fine for now.
@@dimitarnikolov3527 Hiii, I have many Li-on cells which I have but many of them are old and I am not sure about their capacity they are LG branded so I am Interested about your project. I don't want any very low discharge current or anything but just a reliable way to measure the capacity of them. Can you provide the link or the files to the project ?? I don't have any rail to rail opamps just regular ones (NE5532, TL072, 4558, LM324). I was surfing on the internet to find if any one used the INA219 Current Sensor to measure the current accurately instead of the voltage across the shunt.
It's Z78cz from Kradex, I've bought it from tme.eu, but you can buy it in many different e-shops. In good e-shops, you can search these boxes based on sizes and colors.
I've taken a liking to the now quite popular Atorch DL24 electronic load and battery tester. It does everything you need to test the power supply or measure the capacity of virtually any battery. It's a relatively inexpensive toy and easy to upgrade. The software is really unlimited, only the MOSFET it comes with can't make such a P-loss.
My soldering skills are not up to yours and I dont have enough years left to learn so I will create a PCB at sometime. Awesome video as always....cheers.
Very good and informative as always :)maybe turn the transistor heating side up, and place is underside of the heatsink, maybe it has a bit better heat dissipation since heat moves up.
I have enjoyed watching your video, nice job! I have two tips for you which will help you increase the accuracy of all 3 measurements of this device. Add 12pF load capacitors to your crystal and either use an opAmp for voltage and current measurement or decrease the impedance of your measuring circuits. Just trust me on these tips and if you want more details have look at application notes AVR127 and AN2648.
What exact purpose does load capacitors serve?? Do they improve the accuracy of the measured time? Also, in place of opamps can we use dedicated voltage comparator ics like LM393?
@@অৰি Without the load capacitos the internal timer of the ATmega series is drifting a lot. The comparators can not be used. You need a regular opAmp, idealy with low Vos.
IXYS (now Littlefuse) has a series of MOSFETS with extended FBSOA for linear applications, such as electronic loads. I did a design with IXTK90N25L2 some while ago, works nicely.
Yep, but they are quite expensive, and I somehow managed to fry one still operating quite conservative in SOA. Maybe I missed something, or maybe just a bad luck. I replaced it by irf260 or something like that if I remember correctly.
Hlw I am from India and I saw you many time you use a your diy watt meter can you explain in detail how is your diy watt meter work and how can I make my self because I like diy tools and it's gives good accuracy better than readymade tools
Mc33171,2,4 are still in production, i think only SMD as most components today. And i still use them, even in commercial designs. Of course not the most fancy opamp today but knowing a part well is handy if development has to go quick compared to working through cataloges and datasheets...
is it possible to make a comprehensive clip about assembly program and how to compile that to hex and basically how to program Atmega with these!? I do not have anyidea how it is done!
Hi, be careful with these gray thermal pastes. They sometimes contain traces of metal which makes them slightly conductive and might mess up your circuit. I already had problems with it and one of my classmates too 😅
I see you are using a 32768 crystal for time calculation, have you implemented ppm correction like you did for your digital clock? Or the percentage error in crystal frequency can be neglected, it need not be as accurate as it needs to be in a clock?
The crystal error is absolutely negligible here. The main factor for accuracy is the constant current circuit. Time is always measured way way more accurately than the discharge current is regulated.
Maybe a dumb question, but why are there small knots on the power supply wire of your old battery analyzer? Is this just a convenient way to shorten the wires, or is it meant to provide some kind of very low value filtering inductor?
Thank you for sharing! In your webpage you describe, how to program avr with parallel port programmer. Any tutorial how to do it with USB programmer? Been programming only arduinos so far.
Ďakujem za toto veľmi pekné video zo stavby merača batérií. Páči sa mi tvoj štýl ako vyrábaš svoje výrobky, že často využívaš staršie suroviny čo máš doma a tým im dávaš novú šancu na život. Taktiež si cením (ale to som ti už myslím písal pod iným videom), že si sa nenechal zlákať Arduinom, ale programuješ holé AVR-ká v Assembleri. Ja osobne som s MCU (AT89C2051) urobil iba jeden projekt a to hodiny s digitrónmi ako maturitnú prácu, potom som už bastlil len s tranzistormi, logickými obvodmi TTL 74XX a CMOS 4XXX, prípadne nejaké tie OZ keď je treba a podobne, väčšinu dosiek navrhujem na PC v programe Eagle, navrhujem ich tak, aby sa dali vyrobiť ako jednostranné a potom ich kreslím fixkou (ako jednostranné) a leptám v chloride železitom, ale niektoré DPS vyrábam tiež ako ty brúsením, nepoužívam ale univerzálne plošné spoje, ale dosky so súvislou meďou, vybrúsim ostrovčeky a prepojujem ich zo strany spojov tenkými drôtikmi. Súčiastky osadzujem normálne navrch a dosky vŕtam tou istou vŕtačkou na plošné spoje akou tie dosky aj brúsim. Tvoje videá, najmä tie z výroby niečoho sú pre mňa inšpiratívne a dodávajú mi chuť aj naďalej bastliť.
I don't like the way how P3 is set. In fact, these inputs are intended to (almost) ZERO the offset of that opamp, which is relatively easy to do. As long as it is biased and is controlled by a negative feedback, the voltage between In+ and In- is proportional to the offset. Zero multiplied by some constant is still zero, so if you set the P3 to obtain zero (or almost zero) voltage measured between In+ (3) and In- (2) pins, you have almost no offset on the opamp. Generally speaking, this is the way how the offset should be adjusted, but I don't think this would lead to any good result in this particular case, because (as far as I got it) P3 is intended to introduce some defined offset into that circuit to counteract the finite voltage swing of the PWM output, which introduces nonlinearity especially when the PWM pulse is short (this is downside of simple PWM implementation), leakage of C7 and who knows what else. This is definitely not a great idea due to introducing non linearity into whole system and it's also bad from the long term stability point of view. PC1 is something I definitely don't understand to. I accept that you need to somehow turn that load off. This is done by introducing relatively big positive voltage to inverting input of the opamp, which forces it into the negative saturation, but this could be easily done by PC5. Furthermore, if you share that ON/OFF pin with LED, the LED would feed at least some voltage to the inverting opamp input in the RESET state when GPIOs are in the HiZ state doing at least some protection. This is why sharing that pin with LED makes much more sense to me. The last thing. That clock crystal needs at least some adjustment, which is hard to do. There is no output that would be somehow tight to some GPIO. If you touch the crystal itself, you detune that thing, which means you need to use some near field probe to adjust that frequency, which is always tricky. It would be great idea to introduce something like a adjustment mode, which could be activated by pressing some key when that thing is turned on, just to give something like full scale to the PWM output and 1024Hz divided from the crystal oscillator to some GPIO just to ease adjusting XO frequency. In fact, this is easy to implement and it would help a lot to everyone, who builds this thing.
😅 These are so great videos considering the informational and educational value 👍, comedy value is also priceless when you can all the time imagine Roswaal explaining the schematics and electronics behind the design. (inside joke for weebs, let it pass if you don't know it)😄
Have u ever considered using a bjt and nfet in parallel for the pass element. In normal operation the bjt would be active but as the voltage drops the nfet could supplement it. I know it seems a little contrived but if u did have that set up u could use the nfet in short pulses to measure the esr of the batteries. U could also use them with separate batteries. Lik u could have 2 bjt's 2 nfets and 2 small relays and u could do up to 4 batteries at a time with limitations
@@robertjung8929 use a darlington? the whole point is that the increased min forward voltage doesnt matter cause at that point small mosfet can take over cause there wont be much power at that point
@@eemonster and what problem are you "solving" exactly ? and how exactly would you drive that bjt+nfet combo ? you can't connect the base of bjt with the gate of the NFET and expect it to work :) the gate threshold voltage will be above Vbe of the bjt and nfet will do nothing becaue the gate voltage will be clamped to Vbe of that bjt. if you don't connect the gate and base together then you need extra circuitry to drive them. so back to the question.. what problem are you trying to solve ? is it worth over-complicating a working circuit ?
It can sort of be used for 5 li-ion as it is, just at the beginning the voltage measurement will max out. But the termination voltage is within the range, so it will be able to measure the mAh correctly. Just the Wh energy will be a bit underestimated. And of course you have to use a transistor which will not suffer from a 2nd breakdown at 21V and whatever discharging current you use :).
But be careful, the cells might be a bit out of ballance or unmatched, some weaker ones might discharge too deep or even reverse when discharged in series with no protection. To properly test the battery pack, I'd rather measure each cell individually, just like I did with the vacuum cleaner battery pack.
Some time ago i've tried to build this one using jellybean components but it didn't want to work at all. Like opamp tl081 and high power mosfets from computer scrap so i put it in the shelf.
Why 32768 hz crystal? Is it critical? Can't discharge time be measured accurately without it? Let's say with 16Mhz crystal?? Why not reduce the burden on the MOSFET & the size of the heatsink and just add a power resistor as dummy load in place of the fuse? Would you test with LM358 Opamp and IRFZ44N / IRLZ44N MOSFETS? Can we use dedicated voltage comparator ics like LM393 in place of OpAmps?
@@Pulverrostmannen yep, I understand, 2^15 it is...just use it with a 16bit timer counter and you will get 1s . But since I am using a 16mhz crystal was just asking if 32768 crystal has some distinct advantage over other frequency crystals...other than the simplicity of calculation...
@@অৰি well. I think working with 16mhz would introduce problems with capacitive interference and chip response along with inductance and that stuff I suppose. But if you know how to work with high frequencies there is often ways to go around the problems the higher frequencies comes with. I just think that 32768hz would be easier to work with than 16mhz in terms of parasitic interference at least
Restrictions on the operation of MOSFETs in the linear region seems to come as a big rude shock to many. I suppose they thought "second breakdown" was a thing of the bipolar past.
Modern MOSFETs are optimised to be very fast, have low gate capacitance and charge, high transconductance... simply to spend as little time as possible in the linear region. They're mostly made for switching applications, not linear. But this makes them prone to hotspot creation. Having a high transconductance probably also leads to a high thermal coefficient - a hotter spot on the die will concentrate all the current in a small area and destroy it.
Maybe, but the output voltage in high state is only 3V with no load (with a 5V supply). It might be too low for the mosfet gate. The 0.56V voltage drop on the shunt is subtracted from this, so the gate will get even less. If I really had to use this opamp, I'd probably connect the V+ before the 7805.
No, you can't. It's needed for it to measure the time correctly. And a 32768Hz crystal is the most common crystal ever. Why would anybody need to substitute it?
i want a educational video about freescale microcontroller and it's programming interface, they have good reliability than PIC and AVR microcontrollers, i didn't find anything usefull on internet, programming devices uses BDM interface and they are too costly for diy purpose, if there's some diy programmer like USBasp it will be better ! thanks.
You could try LM358 or LMV358. It’s complete rubbish (high offset, high noise, low bandwidth, no offset trimming), but it does allow the input to go to the negative rail.
Not an expert. Is it be possible to power this device with buck converter? Also is there another way to program the microcontrollers, it seems the method you’re using is very old to be applied now.
Yes you can power the circuit with whatever that will make stable enough voltage. For programming most AVRs you can use USBasp or just an Arduino as ISP or UPDI for new ones.
why not using easyEDA or such for producing your pcbs files and then pcbway for providing your pcb...in this way hundreds of your followers using your files and ordering to pcbway you get the percentage. And if you do that for all your projects your are going to have substantial source of income for the forseeable future.
Would be very nice if you would switch to english in your source codes. Makes no sense to publish them with comments written in czech. It is rather hard to follow for people who are not that familiar with atmel microcontrollers. I asume, that Czech speakers are good with english anyway, since they know microcontroller ASM. Thanks.
I guess you can google translate the comments. A lot of foreign viewers do this. I've made this code 10 years ago and now I just modified it. Back then I didn't really expect it to be popular worldwide :).
This is my very first time ever using the "Thanks Button" on TH-cam. And I do it, because I really appreciate your work developing this device and making it available to us. So: THANK YOU!
Big thanks for your support! ;)
This channel should have milions of views god dang it youtube is just recomending junk with someone fakely restoring something not good videos like this one i freaking love this kind of videos keep it up and im thinking of building this tester as well :)
I am watching all of your videos, chronologically, from the beginning. Giving me so much nostalgia!
You are the best electronics channel for me. So honest, so passionate, so authentic.
Your stile and humour is unmatched, and your cat is amazing.
My favourite videos are the ones in which you go back to basics.
Since you have such a huge experience, your takes are always so rich and detailed, nicely explained, nicely drawn on paper, like good old times.
I may suggest some cool and useful video ideas:
- Video on DIY inductors, ferrite cores types and how to measure/calculate inductors and all the intuition.
- Maybe the same with all the types of capacitors, their application, their construction, losses etc.
- Video series on a DRSSTC, since you made the SSTC one! With all the experience on resonance circuits you may give the best interpretation of the coupling coefficient, frequency splitting, proper tuning, etc.
- Video series on an even more bloody complex QCW DRSSTC! You would be able to simplify it so much. This would be the ultimate dream haha :D
Keep it up man, you are a true inspiration.
Massive effort! Most interesting with a lot of information to take in. I appreciate how you explain what components can be used and the danger of using incorrect components. Cheers to the Cat. 😻💯
This can not come at a better time than now that I eagerly need an analysizer that will monitor my battery at all time. Thank you my friend!
Your post-apocalyptic style combined with your good explanations makes your videos very charming. Also good to know that beryllium oxide helps in coping with the news!
The schematic description is definitely one of my favorite parts of your uploads. They don't put me to sleep I really appreciate them.
You are absolutely awesome 😎👍👍👍👍
I just love your cat! Veritaska and her comments are always excellent! 😸
Neat! The most versatile discharger and on top of it still the prettiest cat!
Amazing. Yesterday I was looking if you already made a video about this because I want to build my own
You are 5 years too late for me
I built one from Scullcom Hobby Electronics channel here on YT.
Although I did build your coil tester last year and love it. Works like a charm...
Very nice!
I think I might build this later as it's very nice to be able to measure battery capacity - also for matching cells when using them in a battery pack
love the simplicity
I just got my hands on a sodium ion cell, thank you for this, exacly what i needed 👍
Great material! Can't wait for the next episode.
Long time I miss your videos so much
It takes about one quarter of a kilowatt hour to boil off (completely) a coke can full of water.
Given this, when making a dummy load (many years ago) I soldered the load transistors to a coke can and filled the can with water. 😂It gave my co-workers great amusement, but it worked really well. Best to use devices with Tj_max = 175degC though.
Of course, I had to use luminimum solder (Multicore "Alusol" - it's fantastic stuff, well worth buying a roll).
You're awesome I'm following you since you're Chanel was 17k 👍
Thanks ;) Amazing!
Needs more battery testeeeeeers ❤
Last year I was inspired by your original design and made my own battery tested that I can also use as an constant current load (in this mode it doesn't turn off when the voltage drops).
Mine is tho quite different. On the outside I have a rotary encoder instead of push buttons and my display is only 3 digits.
On the inside is even more different. I used and arduino nano and lm358 op-amp. It doesn't have the offset null function but that's mostly okay bacause I feed the voltage of the shunt back to the arduino so I have an accurate measurement even if the current is not set properly. It's especially helpful at low voltages when the taster can't sinc the set current because I am using a darlington and the op-amp can't go to vcc.
For the ADC voltage reference I use the built-in 1.1V reference so at full current I still get 9 bits of resolution (0.5V / 1.1V), which I think is plenty because the resolution of the PWM is only 8 bits.
Another major difference is a 2nd transistor that I added in series to the collector of the first one, which follows the voltage of the battery and splits it in half between the 2 transistors so the dissipation is shared.
I've found a very sensitive MOSFET on AliExpress, it's IRLB3034 (turns on at about 2V), I don't remember if it's specified for DC. I am using it as the 2nd transistor. I haven't used the tester much but looks like it works fine for now.
My comment become quite long. If anyone is interested or have questions I'll be happy to answer and share more.
@@dimitarnikolov3527 Hiii, I have many Li-on cells which I have but many of them are old and I am not sure about their capacity they are LG branded so I am Interested about your project. I don't want any very low discharge current or anything but just a reliable way to measure the capacity of them. Can you provide the link or the files to the project ?? I don't have any rail to rail opamps just regular ones (NE5532, TL072, 4558, LM324). I was surfing on the internet to find if any one used the INA219 Current Sensor to measure the current accurately instead of the voltage across the shunt.
@DiodeGoneWild where did you buy that transparent back box? I wold have been good for a future project, for me. Thank you in advance.
It's Z78cz from Kradex, I've bought it from tme.eu, but you can buy it in many different e-shops. In good e-shops, you can search these boxes based on sizes and colors.
@@DiodeGoneWild Tanks 😀
Thanks for update this module 👍🏼
I've taken a liking to the now quite popular Atorch DL24 electronic load and battery tester. It does everything you need to test the power supply or measure the capacity of virtually any battery. It's a relatively inexpensive toy and easy to upgrade. The software is really unlimited, only the MOSFET it comes with can't make such a P-loss.
My soldering skills are not up to yours and I dont have enough years left to learn so I will create a PCB at sometime. Awesome video as always....cheers.
10:05 I really fell asleep and now I just woke up. 😁😁😁
heyecanlı bir proje olmuş gibi eline sağlık kardeşim böyle şeylere pek gerek kalmamasına rağmen bazı özel şeylere başlangiç olabilme açısından hoş.
Good job my friend, i follow you since first vids, amazing job! keep it up ! grettings from Mexico !
Very good and informative as always :)maybe turn the transistor heating side up, and place is underside of the heatsink, maybe it has a bit better heat dissipation since heat moves up.
I have build these , and its work so fine and great ❤
I have enjoyed watching your video, nice job! I have two tips for you which will help you increase the accuracy of all 3 measurements of this device. Add 12pF load capacitors to your crystal and either use an opAmp for voltage and current measurement or decrease the impedance of your measuring circuits. Just trust me on these tips and if you want more details have look at application notes AVR127 and AN2648.
What exact purpose does load capacitors serve?? Do they improve the accuracy of the measured time?
Also, in place of opamps can we use dedicated voltage comparator ics like LM393?
@@অৰি Without the load capacitos the internal timer of the ATmega series is drifting a lot. The comparators can not be used. You need a regular opAmp, idealy with low Vos.
IXYS (now Littlefuse) has a series of MOSFETS with extended FBSOA for linear applications, such as electronic loads. I did a design with IXTK90N25L2 some while ago, works nicely.
Yep, but they are quite expensive, and I somehow managed to fry one still operating quite conservative in SOA. Maybe I missed something, or maybe just a bad luck. I replaced it by irf260 or something like that if I remember correctly.
What program do you use to draw schematics?
Day 13 of asking to build a drsstc or a vttc, pls👍
Love your videos
FYI: "This content violates the terms and conditions of Odysee and has been filtered."
So I'm watching it here.
I really don't understand what they don't like about my videos...
Благодарим ви!
It might be a good idea to run it on battery (Ni-Mh or Lead-Acid to avoid fires). In case the power goes out accidentally.
Nah
Yes, it can run on 6 - 8 NiMH cells (AA, AAA).
Hlw I am from India and I saw you many time you use a your diy watt meter can you explain in detail how is your diy watt meter work and how can I make my self because I like diy tools and it's gives good accuracy better than readymade tools
Mc33171,2,4 are still in production, i think only SMD as most components today. And i still use them, even in commercial designs. Of course not the most fancy opamp today but knowing a part well is handy if development has to go quick compared to working through cataloges and datasheets...
Yes, I was looking for the DIP8 version and couldn't find it
Maybe AD8628/8629? They do not have offset regulation but the offset is quite low (1uV).
is it possible to make a comprehensive clip about assembly program and how to compile that to hex and basically how to program Atmega with these!? I do not have anyidea how it is done!
Agree. By the way, a C program would be more beginner friendly than ASM, especially when comments are not in English.
Hi, be careful with these gray thermal pastes. They sometimes contain traces of metal which makes them slightly conductive and might mess up your circuit. I already had problems with it and one of my classmates too 😅
“Problems” as in “pyrotechnics”?💣🔥😱🤣
@@noneofyerbeeswax8194 yes sometimes even that :/
Hello, thanks for the video! Which program do you use for schematic capture? Thank you :)
please make the osilloscope too.
I see you are using a 32768 crystal for time calculation, have you implemented ppm correction like you did for your digital clock? Or the percentage error in crystal frequency can be neglected, it need not be as accurate as it needs to be in a clock?
The crystal error is absolutely negligible here. The main factor for accuracy is the constant current circuit. Time is always measured way way more accurately than the discharge current is regulated.
Maybe a dumb question, but why are there small knots on the power supply wire of your old battery analyzer? Is this just a convenient way to shorten the wires, or is it meant to provide some kind of very low value filtering inductor?
The knot on the wires is so you don't rip the wires out if you accidentally pull them too much. The cheapest strain relief ;)
@@DiodeGoneWild Thanks, love it, keep up your amazing work, you channel is a gem!
Thanks!
Thank you for your support ;)
@@DiodeGoneWildthank you for your sappooort 😊😂❤❤
@@mubashirbhat8041
Shutup
Could you please do an assembly code video?
This is so nice
I hope the third version charging battery with same circuit and can you make the code with C language
Hi Diode
Can you do a battery capacity test of Lidl's new series of Aerocell batteries?
They seem to be no longer as good as they used to be.
Thanks
Why not ;). I might buy some the next time I visit Lidl.
Thank you!
How can I build the old one?
Hello, is there a specific reason to fix the body of the external crystal to the board with a piece of wire or is it for decoration purposes only?
No specific reason
Thank you for sharing! In your webpage you describe, how to program avr with parallel port programmer. Any tutorial how to do it with USB programmer? Been programming only arduinos so far.
Ďakujem za toto veľmi pekné video zo stavby merača batérií. Páči sa mi tvoj štýl ako vyrábaš svoje výrobky, že často využívaš staršie suroviny čo máš doma a tým im dávaš novú šancu na život. Taktiež si cením (ale to som ti už myslím písal pod iným videom), že si sa nenechal zlákať Arduinom, ale programuješ holé AVR-ká v Assembleri. Ja osobne som s MCU (AT89C2051) urobil iba jeden projekt a to hodiny s digitrónmi ako maturitnú prácu, potom som už bastlil len s tranzistormi, logickými obvodmi TTL 74XX a CMOS 4XXX, prípadne nejaké tie OZ keď je treba a podobne, väčšinu dosiek navrhujem na PC v programe Eagle, navrhujem ich tak, aby sa dali vyrobiť ako jednostranné a potom ich kreslím fixkou (ako jednostranné) a leptám v chloride železitom, ale niektoré DPS vyrábam tiež ako ty brúsením, nepoužívam ale univerzálne plošné spoje, ale dosky so súvislou meďou, vybrúsim ostrovčeky a prepojujem ich zo strany spojov tenkými drôtikmi. Súčiastky osadzujem normálne navrch a dosky vŕtam tou istou vŕtačkou na plošné spoje akou tie dosky aj brúsim. Tvoje videá, najmä tie z výroby niečoho sú pre mňa inšpiratívne a dodávajú mi chuť aj naďalej bastliť.
Valeu!
Thank you ;)
I don't like the way how P3 is set. In fact, these inputs are intended to (almost) ZERO the offset of that opamp, which is relatively easy to do. As long as it is biased and is controlled by a negative feedback, the voltage between In+ and In- is proportional to the offset. Zero multiplied by some constant is still zero, so if you set the P3 to obtain zero (or almost zero) voltage measured between In+ (3) and In- (2) pins, you have almost no offset on the opamp. Generally speaking, this is the way how the offset should be adjusted, but I don't think this would lead to any good result in this particular case, because (as far as I got it) P3 is intended to introduce some defined offset into that circuit to counteract the finite voltage swing of the PWM output, which introduces nonlinearity especially when the PWM pulse is short (this is downside of simple PWM implementation), leakage of C7 and who knows what else. This is definitely not a great idea due to introducing non linearity into whole system and it's also bad from the long term stability point of view.
PC1 is something I definitely don't understand to. I accept that you need to somehow turn that load off. This is done by introducing relatively big positive voltage to inverting input of the opamp, which forces it into the negative saturation, but this could be easily done by PC5. Furthermore, if you share that ON/OFF pin with LED, the LED would feed at least some voltage to the inverting opamp input in the RESET state when GPIOs are in the HiZ state doing at least some protection. This is why sharing that pin with LED makes much more sense to me.
The last thing. That clock crystal needs at least some adjustment, which is hard to do. There is no output that would be somehow tight to some GPIO. If you touch the crystal itself, you detune that thing, which means you need to use some near field probe to adjust that frequency, which is always tricky. It would be great idea to introduce something like a adjustment mode, which could be activated by pressing some key when that thing is turned on, just to give something like full scale to the PWM output and 1024Hz divided from the crystal oscillator to some GPIO just to ease adjusting XO frequency. In fact, this is easy to implement and it would help a lot to everyone, who builds this thing.
What software do you use to draw your schematics?
Dude is a old school genius, he does it with pencil and paper
MsPaint (and I love it)
I love this channel ❤❤ even more salt😂😂
EVEN MOAR SAAALT! *
😅 These are so great videos considering the informational and educational value 👍, comedy value is also priceless when you can all the time imagine Roswaal explaining the schematics and electronics behind the design. (inside joke for weebs, let it pass if you don't know it)😄
Horribly bodged! Just how I like it!
Have u ever considered using a bjt and nfet in parallel for the pass element. In normal operation the bjt would be active but as the voltage drops the nfet could supplement it. I know it seems a little contrived but if u did have that set up u could use the nfet in short pulses to measure the esr of the batteries. U could also use them with separate batteries. Lik u could have 2 bjt's 2 nfets and 2 small relays and u could do up to 4 batteries at a time with limitations
bjt needs a lot of current to drive.. hard to find a cheap opamp with high output current capability.
@@robertjung8929 use a darlington? the whole point is that the increased min forward voltage doesnt matter cause at that point small mosfet can take over cause there wont be much power at that point
@@eemonster and what problem are you "solving" exactly ? and how exactly would you drive that bjt+nfet combo ? you can't connect the base of bjt with the gate of the NFET and expect it to work :) the gate threshold voltage will be above Vbe of the bjt and nfet will do nothing becaue the gate voltage will be clamped to Vbe of that bjt. if you don't connect the gate and base together then you need extra circuitry to drive them. so back to the question.. what problem are you trying to solve ? is it worth over-complicating a working circuit ?
Please make a video on building a Geiger counter too
Would be nice to have battery tester/dummy load that instead of just burning the energy, could charge another battery or do something useful.
Of course, but the complexity would deter most people from building it ;)
This does do something useful. It's educational to make and it's a room heater in use.
what change needs to do for 21v battery? 5 series lithium used in many power tools
It can sort of be used for 5 li-ion as it is, just at the beginning the voltage measurement will max out. But the termination voltage is within the range, so it will be able to measure the mAh correctly. Just the Wh energy will be a bit underestimated. And of course you have to use a transistor which will not suffer from a 2nd breakdown at 21V and whatever discharging current you use :).
But be careful, the cells might be a bit out of ballance or unmatched, some weaker ones might discharge too deep or even reverse when discharged in series with no protection. To properly test the battery pack, I'd rather measure each cell individually, just like I did with the vacuum cleaner battery pack.
Simple enough to diy
Brilliant video 👍🇮🇪😁
Some time ago i've tried to build this one using jellybean components but it didn't want to work at all. Like opamp tl081 and high power mosfets from computer scrap so i put it in the shelf.
TL081 can't work. Its common-mode input voltage range doesn't include V-
Why 32768 hz crystal? Is it critical? Can't discharge time be measured accurately without it? Let's say with 16Mhz crystal??
Why not reduce the burden on the MOSFET & the size of the heatsink and just add a power resistor as dummy load in place of the fuse?
Would you test with LM358 Opamp and IRFZ44N / IRLZ44N MOSFETS?
Can we use dedicated voltage comparator ics like LM393 in place of OpAmps?
This is the real frequency used in every quarts watch on the planet, it just makes things easier to calculate
@@Pulverrostmannen yep, I understand, 2^15 it is...just use it with a 16bit timer counter and you will get 1s .
But since I am using a 16mhz crystal was just asking if 32768 crystal has some distinct advantage over other frequency crystals...other than the simplicity of calculation...
@@অৰি well. I think working with 16mhz would introduce problems with capacitive interference and chip response along with inductance and that stuff I suppose. But if you know how to work with high frequencies there is often ways to go around the problems the higher frequencies comes with. I just think that 32768hz would be easier to work with than 16mhz in terms of parasitic interference at least
Is it any way possible to make this without using a soldering iron??
Yeah, maybe with an ice cream...
Thank you. Instead of EN on the display, I would put more like Pow or W or NRG. EN makes think of enable or english. :-)
Nice.
Day 15 of asking to build a drsstc or a vttc, pls👍
Might as well add a SD card and log the data. Draw graphs etc in exell
Tu beta gobar kha le, ye tere bs ki baat nahi hai!!
Your website is down: Error 429 - Too Many Requests
Please explain why the silicone pad is required under the MOSFET, when nothing else is connected to the heatsink?
Yes required
For better heat dissipation
@@prakharsrivastava7170 There is better heat dissipation when the FET is connected directly to the heatsink with compound.
It might be because a loose wire could come into contact with the heatsink and short to the Drain of the MOSFET
Restrictions on the operation of MOSFETs in the linear region seems to come as a big rude shock to many.
I suppose they thought "second breakdown" was a thing of the bipolar past.
Modern MOSFETs are optimised to be very fast, have low gate capacitance and charge, high transconductance... simply to spend as little time as possible in the linear region. They're mostly made for switching applications, not linear. But this makes them prone to hotspot creation. Having a high transconductance probably also leads to a high thermal coefficient - a hotter spot on the die will concentrate all the current in a small area and destroy it.
Start a new series Test alot of transistors and pick some winners from them while classifying them for their usage.
I don't have money but I can send you some electronic or electrical equipment from America if you want
Should ca3140 good for substitute for opamp
Maybe, but the output voltage in high state is only 3V with no load (with a 5V supply). It might be too low for the mosfet gate. The 0.56V voltage drop on the shunt is subtracted from this, so the gate will get even less. If I really had to use this opamp, I'd probably connect the V+ before the 7805.
Can we also use instead of 32768Hz crystal 16Hz or 12Hz or something close to it.
No, you can't. It's needed for it to measure the time correctly. And a 32768Hz crystal is the most common crystal ever. Why would anybody need to substitute it?
do you have 16hz crystal clock???? do you really measure it correctly??
@@DiodeGoneWild I have one 3.579545-B3 C1Y Does it do the Job?
@@DiodeGoneWild I got it I need to sacrifice my Wall clock.
Thanks
I have all the components listed. I only need the operational amplifier, the same or similar. My next project.
Greetings.
I have the AVR m8 and the display working. Now to place the op amp and the mosfet.
It's alive! (with a LM358 and a IRFZ44N)
Now I can analyze my battery collection.
I'm only here for your funny accent 😘
Never and will never understand electronics
Keep watching and you will understand electronics. 😁
He went to a super dodgy English school in Sydney, blame Dave from EEV blog....
i want a educational video about freescale microcontroller and it's programming interface,
they have good reliability than PIC and AVR microcontrollers,
i didn't find anything usefull on internet, programming devices uses BDM interface and they are too costly for diy purpose, if there's some diy programmer like USBasp it will be better !
thanks.
Hi diode gone wild, I found similar to MC33171, the TL081, can I use it as substitute for MC33171??
Hell no, the common-mode input voltage range doesn't include V-
You could try LM358 or LMV358. It’s complete rubbish (high offset, high noise, low bandwidth, no offset trimming), but it does allow the input to go to the negative rail.
❤❤❤❤
You look like Walter White.
Can you please put a timestamp on the face reveal part?
I just thought the same! 😅
@sursur1944 There is a photo on his website.
Not an expert.
Is it be possible to power this device with buck converter? Also is there another way to program the microcontrollers, it seems the method you’re using is very old to be applied now.
Yes you can power the circuit with whatever that will make stable enough voltage.
For programming most AVRs you can use USBasp or just an Arduino as ISP or UPDI for new ones.
Day 16of asking to build a drsstc or a vttc, pls👍
Best bit 10:10 :)
😮🙏🏻😊😊
Day 24 of asking to build a drsstc or a vttc, pls👍
Day 23 of asking to build a drsstc or a vttc, pls👍
Hi sir please can you upload TV MOTHER BOARD
why not using easyEDA or such for producing your pcbs files and then pcbway for providing your pcb...in this way hundreds of your followers using your files and ordering to pcbway you get the percentage. And if you do that for all your projects your are going to have substantial source of income for the forseeable future.
Would it be as educational as this?
It's boring tho and he wants to show how to make it with basic materials that almost every one of us has.
We know what you look like now lol, I thought you were an Indian.
He is from Europe also he isn’t black so it’s obvious he isn’t from india
wondering how is it possible to confuse Indian English accent with any other English accents :) no offense just curious ;)
Guy has an Eastern European accent and is always building things from, or repairing, ex-Soviet equipment.
Yep.. must be Indian 😮
He's from Czech Republic, look at the domain of his website.
Would be very nice if you would switch to english in your source codes. Makes no sense to publish them with comments written in czech. It is rather hard to follow for people who are not that familiar with atmel microcontrollers.
I asume, that Czech speakers are good with english anyway, since they know microcontroller ASM.
Thanks.
I guess you can google translate the comments. A lot of foreign viewers do this. I've made this code 10 years ago and now I just modified it. Back then I didn't really expect it to be popular worldwide :).
Terus berkarya sir,,indonesia hadir.menanti kunjungannya..bosku.di tempat kami..siap menyambut terimakasih tutorialnya..❤❤
Manfaatkan barang bekas..
All inizio non capivo la batteria in PARALLELO al Mosfet .na poi ho capito che in quel modo si controllava meglio. Evitando picchi e spurie