The bilt hamber autowash shampoo contains rust inhibitors, excellent cleansing properties with the advantage of any soap seeping into nooks will get a coating. Great series of videos, many thanks!
How is the coating holding up now nearly 3 years on? I'm doing my land cruiser at the moment which is 13years old so a fair bit of rust and I've chosen the S50 and UB/UC too.
The chassis and axle parts that were in High wear (sticky out chassis, Front axle case) that cop all the muck and get rubbed off road. They were all in the brown (UB) wax
The more i look into bilt hamber, the less i think you can generalise about their products being great. S-50 was worse on test in cavities than rustoleum. The clay bar is good. The surfex wash is good, the auto wash rust inhibitions is unreviewed/ tested. the rust remover is no better than home made citric acid and wallpaper paste. The epoxy mastic is in theory good and good value. I'd prefer TW hybrid solutions SO2 based products than their straight forward wax. The atom mac magic rust inhibitor stuff sounds daft, i don't believe it and review on Amazon confirms.... I think anyone who tries to do such a big range cant get it all right. Its hard to cut through the sales talk. I'd say except for the reviews from magazines and Amazon , take it with a huge pinch of salt
Hi Dan. When looking for a suitable product I didn't rely heavily on a anecdotal bias. I asked a lot of questions and trawled a lot of owners forums 4x4 and otherwise as to who uses what. As with all my video's I'm just trying to sift out a lot of misinformation and present a honest opinion and help those make their minds up. Come to 5 years old and the chassis is a red flaking mess then yes I will tell the world don't do this and you all get a re-Chassis series to watch. www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/PG-BH13-001.pdf The above link is a independent test on a series of products and something I don't see many other brands doing. This is a big sway in my choice of Dynax versus Dinitrol Either way nothing is a one time apply and protect all that can be done is the apply and the time between reapplication or complete coating failure resulting in substrate corrosion. I'm not going to go out and say this is the best that can be, more show what choice I have made and if it stands up to previous claims we all gain from it. I am about to treat a galvanized chassis for my next project and again It will be primed, painted, then I will use S50 and UB to top it off. Hopefully this should keep the rust bug at bay.
the atom mac stuff does sound daft and I thought that but I came across a similar technology which I presume it is based on when buying a bike cover - VCI (vapour corrosion inhibitors) which emit a small amount of vapour that clings to the mettalic surface and sort of anti-catalises the corrosion reactions. Unsure how well it could possibly work in unenclosed areas but I'd say it's worth a try potentially
Does sound a bit snake oil Dan but it works if used at the correct concentration - used as a final rinse on brake discs for example - no flash rust appears.
The bilt hamber autowash shampoo contains rust inhibitors, excellent cleansing properties with the advantage of any soap seeping into nooks will get a coating. Great series of videos, many thanks!
Thanx for the upload, Well worth the wait cheers.......
How is the coating holding up now nearly 3 years on? I'm doing my land cruiser at the moment which is 13years old so a fair bit of rust and I've chosen the S50 and UB/UC too.
Jamie Graham following
good video i shall be buying some of that spray wax
Was that covered with the clear or brown wax?
The chassis and axle parts that were in High wear (sticky out chassis, Front axle case) that cop all the muck and get rubbed off road. They were all in the brown (UB) wax
@@Devonlandrover Thank you
Hi pal can you tell me is dynax ub ok to coat exausts
Useful info. Thanks v much.
The more i look into bilt hamber, the less i think you can generalise about their products being great. S-50 was worse on test in cavities than rustoleum. The clay bar is good. The surfex wash is good, the auto wash rust inhibitions is unreviewed/ tested. the rust remover is no better than home made citric acid and wallpaper paste. The epoxy mastic is in theory good and good value. I'd prefer TW hybrid solutions SO2 based products than their straight forward wax. The atom mac magic rust inhibitor stuff sounds daft, i don't believe it and review on Amazon confirms.... I think anyone who tries to do such a big range cant get it all right. Its hard to cut through the sales talk. I'd say except for the reviews from magazines and Amazon , take it with a huge pinch of salt
Hi Dan. When looking for a suitable product I didn't rely heavily on a anecdotal bias. I asked a lot of questions and trawled a lot of owners forums 4x4 and otherwise as to who uses what. As with all my video's I'm just trying to sift out a lot of misinformation and present a honest opinion and help those make their minds up. Come to 5 years old and the chassis is a red flaking mess then yes I will tell the world don't do this and you all get a re-Chassis series to watch.
www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/PG-BH13-001.pdf
The above link is a independent test on a series of products and something I don't see many other brands doing. This is a big sway in my choice of Dynax versus Dinitrol
Either way nothing is a one time apply and protect all that can be done is the apply and the time between reapplication or complete coating failure resulting in substrate corrosion. I'm not going to go out and say this is the best that can be, more show what choice I have made and if it stands up to previous claims we all gain from it.
I am about to treat a galvanized chassis for my next project and again It will be primed, painted, then I will use S50 and UB to top it off. Hopefully this should keep the rust bug at bay.
the atom mac stuff does sound daft and I thought that but I came across a similar technology which I presume it is based on when buying a bike cover - VCI (vapour corrosion inhibitors) which emit a small amount of vapour that clings to the mettalic surface and sort of anti-catalises the corrosion reactions. Unsure how well it could possibly work in unenclosed areas but I'd say it's worth a try potentially
Does sound a bit snake oil Dan but it works if used at the correct concentration - used as a final rinse on brake discs for example - no flash rust appears.
Source please "S-50 was worse on test in cavities than rustoleum." ?
Conrad Taggart
1 second ago
Source please "S-50 was worse on test in cavities than rustoleum." ?