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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2017
- In this video I show the process to build a 4 channel fireworks igniter. This igniter requires a 12 volt power supply capable of delivering about 10 amps. A car or riding lawn mower battery works great for this. The nice thing about this design is that the igniters themselves are almost indefinitely reusable. They just slide over the fuse and will glow red hot when the button is pressed. This beats the ematches that you have to pay $20 for 100 of them and they can only be used once. This video is quite lengthy due to me never writing scripts or planning the videos out so feel free to skip through it a bit. Sorry this video is a bit late. I got plagued with computer problems lately.
Happy 4th of July!
Relay Module (China shipping):
www.amazon.com/Thunbird-Chann...
Relay Module (USA Shipping):
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Zip Cord:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Nichrome Wire:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Butt Connectors:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
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Actually I like that fact that you covered every aspect, it works a lot better for first timers.
Hi Eman, a little tip to straighten out your wire is to put one end in the vice, and the other in a drill.
Pull it straight with a light tension and give the drill a quick run and your wire should be perfectly straight.
Hope this tip helps my friend 👍👍
Thank you my good sir you are both a gentleman and a scholar.
Awesome! Perfect! Last yeah I used a 110v hot surface ignitor out of a furnace hooked up to a light switch and extension cord, so this method I like alot more. Besides the fact that I waited to long to bug e matches and nearly every method of making your own TH-cam is a bust (most likely due to user error) this method is something I'm familiar with. I'll be sure to let you know how it works in the weeks coming up!
I made it and it works perfectly!!
Pro tip, if you leave one side of the wire in the vice and make an L on the other end, stick that L in the teeth of a drill and give it a few spins it will straighten the wire perfectly.
I've used a single-channel unit to set off my homemade fireworks, and simply use a 9v battery, with press-on clip, for both power to the relay and the igniter, as once the charge ignites there's no load on the battery. A few wires, and a simple screw-join to connect a new igniter to the unit.
I used to use wound Nichrome fuses inserted into the charge, but it was too tedious, so I purchased some blank igniters from China, and then just added a small primary mix over the short fuse element. The primary works fine, and I haven't had a failure to date, but just to make sure I added a coating of a secondary mix over the top of the primary.
They still take some time to prepare, but it's minor, as I have my mix ready, and only have to dip the heads into it, them press then upside down into a thin horizontal line of BlueTack.
I added a length of kitchen string about 6cm above the BlueTack, so that if the weight of the wire starts to bend it over, it's halted by the string.
Mine is for homemade charges, without any external Visco/BP fuse, which your unit is intended for.
Still, a smaller coil of Nichrome would just as easily, using 9v batteries, for small or infrequent use.
[edited for dumb typos : less obvious ones may still be there]
Its a very nice DIY video, very well presented, but not necessarily the best method to light fireworks fuses. It works for you. I was looking for firing boxes which could light up fuses like Talons, MJB initiators, e-matches [the disposable stuff]. . . Giving you a thumps up for the way you portrayed your content.
Sorry for the late reply. First of all thank you. If you wanted to, it should should be possible replace the igniters that I use with e-matches or whatever else. It may still not be the best way to do it though as you will still need a 12 volt power source for it. Also if you haven't looked into it yet, remote igniters that use e-matches are actually available quite cheaply on eBay and probably many other sites.
These VHF or UHF remote systems are dangerous though, without any dynamic coding, or encryption, they can go off unexpectedly by picking up signals from other similar systems such as garage door openers.
I haven't tried it yet but you can use a buck converter module to step up the voltage from 4 AA batteries to 12 volts. This way you don't have to use one of those big 12 volt batteries. I just ordered some off ebay for a few dollars. I dunno if they'd be able to supply the current for heavy duty reusable coils such as this but I know the premade modules that use the one time ignitors seem to work reliably off 4 aa batteries. I'll probably be trying out your design for reusable igniters though, seems pretty brilliant.
Use a threaded bolt instead of a nail.
Helps keep it evenly spaced without touching.
Make sure you use the correct type of wire.
Otherwise you will have a direct short and smoke the connecting wire faster than a heartbeat.
I have an issue with this kind of system and I could really use some help. I used a chip just like that one except it was a 1 channel. It said it takes 12 volts DC so I used a 18650 DC battery and hooked it up to a DC-DC boost module and set it to 12 volts and it still would power on the relay. I could really use some help. Thanks and great video!
i think sliding some dr-25 shrink tubing over the butt connectors would help tremendously. Also lowering the risk of the two touching. Nice vjo tho. thx for sharing!
Also, using solid copper for the jumpers saves a ton of space...solid copper can carry much more current in a smaller package. Just make jumpers from terminal to terminal and then just have your incoming wires join the last terminal...and Bob's your auntie.
Very nice
Some auto parts stores carry non insulated butt connectors. Standard makes them.
Three cell Lipo battery works fine
Here's a question, now what if I wanted to have all four igniters light up at the same time? How would I go about doing that?
If you wanted that every time you could get a single channel relay board and just wire all of the igniters onto the one channel. That single channel board would have to be rated for 20 Amps though.
@@Eman2000 Awesome, Thank You.
After looking around I found this one but is rated 40Amps so double your recommendation: m.aliexpress.com/item/32834635201.html?pid=808_0000_0131&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32834635201
Would this puppy work for me?
Thank You.
P.S.: I was looking at this thing a bit more closely; if this were to work out for me where would the ground wire connect too? It has only four terminals, 1 positive and 1 negative power, and 1 positive and 1 negative outgoing.. so I'm a little confused. Thank You.
P.P.S.: I also found a 40Amps auto fuse and holder but where in the world would I connect it too? Would the fuse take the place of the 1:4005 Diode or do I use them both?
(If you couldn't tell by now I'm sorta new to the electronics game, I've done maybe like one or two small projects in the past with my brother but he did most of the work LOL)
You can send me a diagram of this, I don't understand the connection.
Now what about making a match when it reaches a temperature of only 40 C i have such chemicals. anyone interested in our shares.
What a hell of a way to go about such a simple thing. Just use a small battery, I use a discarded Gelblaster Li ion battery. 11.7 volts but it a little over 12v charged. I make my own electric squibs using steel wool strands for element at the end of a pair of telephone wires. Dipped in shellac, then GP slurry, then shellac again. In a day I make hundreds of them. These use so little power, I never had to charge the battery yet in hundreds of shots. This is crazy complicated, inefficient and expensive.
$30 and you have the same rf relay but with 15 channels rated at 10A 12VDC.
You have a link for that?
www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-12V-24V-15CH-15CH-Relay-RF-Wireless-Remote-Control-Switch-System-Transmitter-and-Receiver-315mhz/32871046105.html
its actually 20A per channel. i could also help you out with links for cheap project boxes, battery holders, parts for diy battery packs, cheap 18650 charging modules with over charge protection or full on battery management system pcbs, chargers, nichrome wire and wire terminals. \,,/ ^_^ \,,/
Eman2000 also get one of these for easier coil making: www.coil-master.net/product/coil-master-coiling-kit-v4 and using wago style connectors avoids soldering and a mess of wires.
www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DC12V-12V-24V-Wide-voltage-18-CH-18CH-RF-Wireless-Remote-Control-Switch-System-Transmitter-Receiver/1261377_32871314580.html
most channels on a single board i could find. 18 channels and this one has a real nice antenna that is easily mounted externally with a extension cable so you can mount the whole thing in a aluminium project box without loss of operating distance.
cool thank you, I might look into make a 15 or 18 channel one for next year.
I really need a diagram🥺
How to post "how to make a remote bomb detonation system" on youtube.
Please 🙏🏻🥺
I whas arested for playing around with sutch tools in australia, I nouw specialise in sutch. Do you know , how to use a 60cent thermal match. Activated at only 40Cels degrees ? I am nouw deported for having sutch information, Australia had to change the laws ,after they confiscated my RND . Now I make a business out of it. Based on my experiance. The law in Australia nouw says , and remote activation of a pyrotechnic substance is nouw ileagal. So nouw I have to sell it in two seperate parts.
Nope nope nope. Ugh. No!