The camber angle should be set to ensure proper temperatures across the tyre (the outside about 5-10 degrees C cooler than the inside). Proper temperatures means your contact patch is maximised in corners. Tyre pressure should be adjusted to get the correct contact patch. The temperature in the middle of the tyre should be between the outside and inside temperatures. If it's higher, you have too much pressure. If it's lower you don't have enough pressure. For GT cars, according to the devs, the ideal pressure is 1.8-1.9bar (26-27psi) hot pressures. Both of these settings are meant to maximise the grip you get from your tyres. Unlike PC1 (and a lot of other sim games out there), in PC2 tyre pressures count more than temperatures, as they do in real life. And, don't get me wrong, experimenting with settings to figure out what they're doing is a very good idea. Also, setups can be very personal, kinda like you prefer to have the rear wheels a bit loose to help you with steering. I'm only pointing these things out to give everyone a little bit of insight into the options.
Your type of explaination is perfect for old games or games with simplistic calculations for grip levels. "The camber angle should be set to ensure proper temperatures across the tyre (the outside about 5-10 degrees C cooler than the inside). Proper temperatures means your contact patch is maximised in corners." - And when do you get that temp spread on a tyre and where exactly? On surface? Deep thread of rubber? Deeper layers of rubber temps fluctuate less but most games show surface temps and these fluctuate a lot and on a cambered wheel inside shoulder will ALWAYS be much hotter than the rest of the tyre because of rolling resistance on straights. Thermal cameras are used in corners to ensure that as a car is loaded through a corner heat builds up in a correct manner ideally on entire width (which having perfect temp spread and therefore best possible wheel angles and other stuff, almost never happens). There is no rule "make sure your temp spread is 5-10 deg between outside shoulder, middle, inside shoulder". It only works in simplistic calculation methods. It is not how it's done in real life (the 5-10 deg rule). Then again we come to pressures. You got that thing somewhat right about outside and inside temps should be relatively higher than middle temp and them rolling more on middle part of a tyre when overpressurized. However 1,8-1,9 bar rule is more or less general rule of thumb but in reality cars use different tyre manufacturers that respond differently to different pressures so it's not like golden rule in real life (in PC2 maybe yes) some tyre manufacturers don't even recommend best pressures but the safest pressures for them. Sometimes it can be way over 1,9, sometimes lower than 1,8. Also these are more or less dry pressures, wet pressures are higher than that. Lastly you are right about setup being a very personal thing, there is a million ways to skin a cat. My post is just trying to explain a few things by going a bit deeper with some explainations. Have fun! Cheers! :)
Robert _"And when do you get that temp spread on a tyre and where exactly? On surface? Deep thread of rubber? Deeper layers of rubber temps fluctuate less but most games show surface temps and these fluctuate a lot"_ You get that spread in high lateral force corners. Also, yes, inner tyre layers. PC2 will show these temperatures, not surface temperatures. _"It only works in simplistic calculation methods."_ Well, it's a guideline, not a calculation method. In the future things will hopefully get better when tyre temperatures will be added to the telemetry API, so we can record them for post session analysis. _"It is not how it's done in real life (the 5-10 deg rule)."_ As far as i know, the way it's done in real life is by pulling into the pits and immediately taking the tyre temperature with a needle probe. I never heard about thermal cameras being used (not saying they're not, i just never heard of it), but it doesn't make sense to me because racing professionals advise against infrared or thermal cameras because the outside of the tyre cools down abnormally fast due to air flow. _"However 1,8-1,9 bar rule is more or less general rule of thumb but in reality cars use different tyre manufacturers that respond differently to different pressures"_ That is correct. In fact, some manufacturers recommend pressure in excess of 32psi on occasion. However, 1.8-1.9 bar comes from a PC2 developer recommendation. Presumably, the tyres they simulated work best in that pressure range. I'm not trying to give out generic racing advice, but specific PC2 advice. _"Also these are more or less dry pressures, wet pressures are higher than that."_ As far as i know, wet tyre pressures are more or less the same as dry tyre pressures, with the tyre up to temperature. What differs is cold tyre temperatures. With a dry tyre that might be 1.45bar, but with a wet tyre it might be 1.6bar, due to the cooling effect of the water on the tyre and the fact that wet tyres, in general, run at much lower optimum temperatures than dry tyres. _"My post is just trying to explain a few things by going a bit deeper with some explainations."_ I know. Same as mine.
I'm fairly new to pc2, but technically, as far as I'm aware of, if you stiffen/loosen the suspension or antiroll bars or change tire pressure, you will need to adjust camber accordingly. If you peek at the details in the alternate HUD once the tires are warmed up you can see if the inside or outside of the tires are heating up unevenly. This was the info I really needed but never got from youtube when I got into tuning!
Track builder puts in yellow blocks to prevent cutting. Racers solve this by cutting even more..Soon all tracks will have them as big as Snetterton. Those are huge..
Sometimes I would like to see which behaviour of car can be fixed by which setting adjustment. Like: -Jardier "I'm coming to a corner , turning in. Car spins. If the car spins like that with throttle off, check your differential (and explain what and how to change)"
Yeah this is exactly my problem as wel! I use to race in Raceroom, but when I have for example a lot of understeer I don't exactly know what to change and what it exactly does. I change a lot of things than, but sometimes the setup becomes only worse. Would love to know what exactly does what, and which combinations work for which problems, etc.
For anyone Watching this, Instead of maximizing braking pressure and opt for higher ABS, try this. (assuming you have atleast a decent pedal set with somekind of rubbermod or spring) Start by setting up your brake pedal right. When the pedal travels light at first nothing should happen, when it starts to stiffen up then the car should start braking a little, use brake deadzone to get this right. Then lower the braking sensitivity to 25 to begin with(mine is set to 13 on T3PA Pedals with rubber thing) Test drive! maximum braking should only be achived when you are pressing hard and try and find the sweet spot that feels natural to you. lower sensitivity until the pedal barely brakes unless really pressed firmly, that way when you are braking heavy and one tire locks up you can release some pressure and not have to actually lift your foot up. Now.. Turn of ABS, go test and try braking into corners heavy and if you are locking the fronts up while braking in a straight line you need to adjust brake balance until you can press harder on the brakes than normal, cause that's what that is for. when the car starts locking up rears you need to throw a few clicks back and test again! when satisfied, lower brake pressure until it gets close to impossible to lock the brakes up... have a button on the wheel that controls ABS to turn it on in the rain or when to stressed, also map some buttons for the brake balance cause you might want to adjust it mid race if tire temp goes out of hand, also handy when tuning ofcourse :D. And there you go, you can now start braking like a real master and trail braking should be easier than ever! brake pressure at maximum does not mean maximum braking.
That was really good. Glad your helping us understand changes in a setup and what it should do. Hard to believe that those minor changes you made and the car was so fast. You didn't even touch the gears and never went into 6th gear. I imagine if you changed your gears you would ever be faster. Glad your doing this series. I'm sure your followers are excited as I am to learn from one of the best drivers. Looking forward to more helpful videos. Thanks Jardier.
Jardier Maybe just change the final drive. You can definitely change the gears individually. I'm not trying to tell you what to do so please don't get mad at me. Your so dam good already but in my testing gears can make a huge difference. Thanks again for your help. Your awesome!!!
If you're having trouble speaking while doing the laps, you can just record the laps in silence and do a voice-over afterwards. Or you just don't show us the laps, and say: "I did 5 laps, I improved X amount".
Very informative! I drive in the Audi R8 as well in a GT3 league, got a race in Portimão today and I was struggling quite a bit with the backend, I’ll try to use some of your suggestions
This is really helpful, thank you! I'm not wedded to a particular car, and like to drive them all, so it is REALLY helpful to have a starting point to go from when you hop from car to car. I used your advice to come up with profiles for several GT3 cars using these principles, and all of them are really enjoyable to drive. Thanks!
Amazing video! I was surprised you didn't get some understeer by setting the front ARB so hard when compared to the rear. But I suppose the different spring rates counteract the effect a bit. I normally like a more reactive front too so i usually like to give it a bit of a forward biased ARB. Interesting that lowering the rear camber also helps the car turn in. Lots of good ideas for me to take away and improve my setups!
Hi Jardier. Nice video and explanations. I usually look at videos from Thekie25 but I do not know WHY he changed it that way. I like to know what the different settings do. The engineer helps a lot but not all (like dampers, ecu and diff). Love to see your next video on settings ;)
You should do more track guide vids. I know this was intended as a car setup guide but it actually was a good track guide too. There are some tracks I just can't seem to be fast on!
Super-helpful video Jardier! I struggle a lot with setups, and appreciate the input of such an experienced person. So... its been a year since you did this though. Is it time for the "Dampers" tutorial now? :)
U should demonstrate how to fine tune the dampers and ride height using the telemetry in motion. I've been trying to do that to keep the car's rear more planted when coasting over crests but not too aggressive that it causes the front to snap understeer
Looking forward to dampers. I can't help but think the car is bobbing too much in braking zones which is causing the car to bottom out and that could be alleviated by stiffening the dampers a bit or increasing (?) the spring rate. Lowering the ride height looked like it helped a bit, but it might just be masking the issue (but this is coming from someone who doesn't make setups at all and just uses ones from guys like you).
Gonna try these tips on my Ferrari and see if it helps me set better lap times. I'm a good driver I feel like it's the car setup that's holding me back
That was helpfull. I also would like to see a video about 1) the dampers setup and 2) tire pressure and camber. What I would like to know about that is what make a tire overheat? Low or high pressure? And what makes it wear more, high or low?
Great vid! Please do one of these for the clio cup!... I've seen you race many times in the clio and the car seems so planted, I'm currently in the clio cup with 100 AI and 75% aggression and I'm struggling, my lap times are consistently around 51.6 but they are in the 50 flats... I did the ginetta junior on these difficulties and smashed it but the clio car is all over the place... ha ha
These are very nice for basics, thank you. I have worked out a very nice setup for the Aston Martin Vantage GTE on dry tarmac - very fast and stable - I did a lot of the stuff you did in this video, but it likes to slide around a lot in heavy rain - snap oversteer (probably the driver accelerating to quickly - lol - but the rear does come around too much). And it's really bad when the track is drying out - and yes I've kept the wet tires on the car. I don't want to turn on SC in rain because it's not authentic, you understand. I like the sound of the car's V8. Could you go over Tuning for Rain, please?
That's a fast lap with a not so fast car on the track. Natural aspirated engines have a too big disadvantage on track with higher altitude and Red Bull Ring is over 600 m above sea level. It's promised that this get fixed with Patch 4. I suck a bit on Red Bull and tried to find a GT3-car to compete in the Top 3. For me only the Ferrari seems fast enough, even it's not that fast anymore on other tracks. My favorite is the Ginetta, but whatever i try it's a second slower on Red Bull Ring. Not enough corners for this car to shine plus n-a V8:) I downloaded a 1:27,7 setup for the Ferrari (probably made before Patch 3) with the TimeTrial-ghost and he was running 2/5-aero setup. Pretty stable setup and i even lowered the aero to 1/4. Why you are starting with a "stable" setup? This is usually made for gamepad-users and their default i heard. Normally the brake-balance is more front and something different with the dampers and diff, probably for more inertia when they go full lock. Seems to work for you, but there's a lot of understeer in this stable-setups and maybe not that much oversteer from the suspension necessary when starting with the loose setups.
I would like to know about ride height/ground clearance in the GT3. do we really need to make the floor scraping at high speed like it is mentioned in most setup developer programs? I understand that we have to do it for the high downforce cars like F1 and LMP1, but for the GT cars? it is necessary? or shall we avoid it?
I have a challenge for you! I was picking tracked I had never raced on before and came a cross a course with 3 I think turn. I didn’t realise it was a rally stage and it was covered in snow and it was also incredibly short. I did not come equipped as I was in a Chevrolet Indy car (The one with the larger back wing) and the car record for this track was 28seconds so my challenge to you is to beat that world record. I got my time down to about 31 but honestly that wasn’t that hard considering nature of the track but trying to push it beyond that was hard. Damage on by default and no changing the car, go with whatever auto tune and wheels they give you and good luck :-) Obviously film it :p
Well I can tell you a great setup doesn't help if your shit at driving . 3 times today watched this going back and foward but can't get under a 1.33 after 50 laps so I quit. Great driving mate.
nice time on the track but can this setup be used for a "longer" (15laps) run ? low pressuere @ this track temps works for me maybe 2-3 laps and the tyres are gone ( overheating )
yea yea i know thx :)) i wonder that holds for a time, i drive redbull in spring ( always in my lobby spring time :) ) and i cant drive on that low pressure ( yea 2-3 laps works ), maybe the 911 is the "problem" :)
Hei Jardier! I m having soooo many problems with the game lately: I can't drive with soft tyres, neither hard tbh, because everytime I wanna ride through a corner, they just start smoke like a cimney! It happens mostly with fast cars, such as GT3, Super trofeo, GT1, LMP900 and so on... Useless to say the tyres wear out very quickly, and in a few corners the car becomes undrivable. I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO FOR IT. I tried many settings, brake ratio, brake pressure, camber, toe in angle and so on, but nothing changes. I'm using low TCS, strong ABS and stability control activated. Please help a lost soul like me master!
Well, to be fairly honest I ve noticed many people say that is a BUG... I do believe there is a bug with that, of course. But in my case, and I don't know how many others are experiencing my same problems, it doesn't just make my tyre SMOKE. I wouldn't care if the tyres smoked, but could still perform properly, without getting killed in a few laps. Infact, not only the tyres smoke, but become hotter and hotter from corner to corner, and braking becomes almost impossible, especially if the car I'm driving is a fast one. I know hard tyres help a LITTLE BIT but still they tend to wear out too fast... Might be a bad set-up, or the fact I'm using a controller... But i'm reaaaaaally struggling with it. I'd be grateful if you could give me a hand, cause I don't want to leave PC2. It is the most challenging racing game I've ever played!
I don't really know man, I try to be as careful and gentle as I can... But it doesn't even matter hahaha Tyres would just blow up in a few laps... Damn it is annoying as hell...
If you want specific help I'd suggest making a video and soliciting help. Take the car on track, keep the tire temps HUD up and then go to the setup and through the various pages. Every car and track is different. What works on Brands Hatch at 20 C track temp won't work on COTA at 60 C track temp. It is challenging and not all problems can be solved but specifics are needed for specific help.
when you click start I see that the stable setup is loaded so I think you made those first laps with default stable setup. Oh yeah and they have now in update 4 made fixes to the settings and saving and so on so it should be better and more consistent now
Do you ever adjust the Steering Ratio? For me I like to keep it around 6-10 (no farther than 180 degree of steering rotation, but that is just my personal preference.) Great vid btw!
Why do cars (especially the GT 3 ones) understeer with soft slicks, hard slicks widen the maximum steering angle, it´s unrealistic to drive with hard slicks even in short races
im on 34" ultrawide and tbh never tried roof, bumper or hood view. I checked it now in pc2 and you can really better feel break points but dunno why it feels for me so unnatural hehe
As we race in ESL with forced default setup I dont like the "hands" moving in the game when you steer too much which you always do in forced default setup with TC or 488GT3. I know I can turn off the wheel but I dont know I prefer Roof cam for that. Sorry if it bothers you :(
Im on playstation. I love this game but its so annoying how this game doesnt remember settings. Ill set my car up then the race will start and ill have a default setup. Or like ill have 3 laps of fuel and start the race with a full tank
A bit late, but want to help out. Try saving changes on a new slot. I know of a bug, on pc at least, where if you overwrite a setup it (sometimes) doesn't save.
Ahoj. Sledoval jsem par on-line závodu a všiml jsem si, ze jsi z ČR. Myslíš si, ze by jsi byl schopný udělat pár návodu v češtině? Je mi jasný, že to zabere spoustu hodin práce. Ale v této hře jsem nováček a v těch nastavení trochu plavu 😂 takhle bych to jen okopíroval a šel bych jezdit 🤣 Ještě bych se rad zaptal, jak moc se tyto nastavení mění s jízdou za mokra, nebo v proměnných podmínkách? Jinak držím palce v sezóně 😊
what do you think about this tyre pressure guide? forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?57541-Project-CARS-2-Tyre-Temps because it differ a lot from your choice otherwise, thanks for the tutorial and i'm looking forward for the next videos! great work
good video, but sound is not very good, i work with as a producer for 15 years , i am able to correct and improve it , dedskin At gmail. Everything on the internet labeled as Dedskin is my work, a lot of it as a Ghost Producer but anyways , I have 10 000 $ in Studio Equipment, and pricing is as low as 5$ so why not . Have nice day
The camber angle should be set to ensure proper temperatures across the tyre (the outside about 5-10 degrees C cooler than the inside). Proper temperatures means your contact patch is maximised in corners.
Tyre pressure should be adjusted to get the correct contact patch. The temperature in the middle of the tyre should be between the outside and inside temperatures. If it's higher, you have too much pressure. If it's lower you don't have enough pressure. For GT cars, according to the devs, the ideal pressure is 1.8-1.9bar (26-27psi) hot pressures.
Both of these settings are meant to maximise the grip you get from your tyres. Unlike PC1 (and a lot of other sim games out there), in PC2 tyre pressures count more than temperatures, as they do in real life. And, don't get me wrong, experimenting with settings to figure out what they're doing is a very good idea. Also, setups can be very personal, kinda like you prefer to have the rear wheels a bit loose to help you with steering. I'm only pointing these things out to give everyone a little bit of insight into the options.
Your type of explaination is perfect for old games or games with simplistic calculations for grip levels. "The camber angle should be set to ensure proper temperatures across the tyre (the outside about 5-10 degrees C cooler than the inside). Proper temperatures means your contact patch is maximised in corners." - And when do you get that temp spread on a tyre and where exactly? On surface? Deep thread of rubber? Deeper layers of rubber temps fluctuate less but most games show surface temps and these fluctuate a lot and on a cambered wheel inside shoulder will ALWAYS be much hotter than the rest of the tyre because of rolling resistance on straights. Thermal cameras are used in corners to ensure that as a car is loaded through a corner heat builds up in a correct manner ideally on entire width (which having perfect temp spread and therefore best possible wheel angles and other stuff, almost never happens). There is no rule "make sure your temp spread is 5-10 deg between outside shoulder, middle, inside shoulder". It only works in simplistic calculation methods. It is not how it's done in real life (the 5-10 deg rule). Then again we come to pressures. You got that thing somewhat right about outside and inside temps should be relatively higher than middle temp and them rolling more on middle part of a tyre when overpressurized. However 1,8-1,9 bar rule is more or less general rule of thumb but in reality cars use different tyre manufacturers that respond differently to different pressures so it's not like golden rule in real life (in PC2 maybe yes) some tyre manufacturers don't even recommend best pressures but the safest pressures for them. Sometimes it can be way over 1,9, sometimes lower than 1,8. Also these are more or less dry pressures, wet pressures are higher than that. Lastly you are right about setup being a very personal thing, there is a million ways to skin a cat. My post is just trying to explain a few things by going a bit deeper with some explainations. Have fun! Cheers! :)
Robert
_"And when do you get that temp spread on a tyre and where exactly? On surface? Deep thread of rubber? Deeper layers of rubber temps fluctuate less but most games show surface temps and these fluctuate a lot"_
You get that spread in high lateral force corners. Also, yes, inner tyre layers. PC2 will show these temperatures, not surface temperatures.
_"It only works in simplistic calculation methods."_
Well, it's a guideline, not a calculation method. In the future things will hopefully get better when tyre temperatures will be added to the telemetry API, so we can record them for post session analysis.
_"It is not how it's done in real life (the 5-10 deg rule)."_
As far as i know, the way it's done in real life is by pulling into the pits and immediately taking the tyre temperature with a needle probe. I never heard about thermal cameras being used (not saying they're not, i just never heard of it), but it doesn't make sense to me because racing professionals advise against infrared or thermal cameras because the outside of the tyre cools down abnormally fast due to air flow.
_"However 1,8-1,9 bar rule is more or less general rule of thumb but in reality cars use different tyre manufacturers that respond differently to different pressures"_
That is correct. In fact, some manufacturers recommend pressure in excess of 32psi on occasion. However, 1.8-1.9 bar comes from a PC2 developer recommendation. Presumably, the tyres they simulated work best in that pressure range. I'm not trying to give out generic racing advice, but specific PC2 advice.
_"Also these are more or less dry pressures, wet pressures are higher than that."_
As far as i know, wet tyre pressures are more or less the same as dry tyre pressures, with the tyre up to temperature. What differs is cold tyre temperatures. With a dry tyre that might be 1.45bar, but with a wet tyre it might be 1.6bar, due to the cooling effect of the water on the tyre and the fact that wet tyres, in general, run at much lower optimum temperatures than dry tyres.
_"My post is just trying to explain a few things by going a bit deeper with some explainations."_
I know. Same as mine.
Why do I feel these comments were written by one person.
@@idontdanceallidoisthis3019 LOL
This is Wikipedia...
Jardier is a human be.
Looking forward for your feedback guys :) 13:28 are the last setup changes and my best laptime right after
I'm fairly new to pc2, but technically, as far as I'm aware of, if you stiffen/loosen the suspension or antiroll bars or change tire pressure, you will need to adjust camber accordingly. If you peek at the details in the alternate HUD once the tires are warmed up you can see if the inside or outside of the tires are heating up unevenly. This was the info I really needed but never got from youtube when I got into tuning!
Track builder puts in yellow blocks to prevent cutting. Racers solve this by cutting even more..Soon all tracks will have them as big as Snetterton. Those are huge..
Sometimes I would like to see which behaviour of car can be fixed by which setting adjustment. Like:
-Jardier "I'm coming to a corner , turning in. Car spins. If the car spins like that with throttle off, check your differential (and explain what and how to change)"
alright thanks for great idea for future future video :)
It is going to be very hard, but I think that most people struggle what to change and why. I can help you with this if you want :)
Yeah this is exactly my problem as wel! I use to race in Raceroom, but when I have for example a lot of understeer I don't exactly know what to change and what it exactly does. I change a lot of things than, but sometimes the setup becomes only worse. Would love to know what exactly does what, and which combinations work for which problems, etc.
This was a great video! But can you do something like this in Raceroom as well? And for example on different tracks with different cars.
th-cam.com/play/PLWSWQyqnLDu7tLWE9P35Qog6Z8_xb7l_g.html&fbclid=IwAR36MQNQAW1AM9DsFEdc4UsXz9j4WSOyKTid7X-x_l16lDCmdtGV8Q2fldA
New to Sim Racing New To Project Cars 2 And this made my laps better by 3 to 4 sec's Thank you so much!
For anyone Watching this, Instead of maximizing braking pressure and opt for higher ABS, try this. (assuming you have atleast a decent pedal set with somekind of rubbermod or spring)
Start by setting up your brake pedal right.
When the pedal travels light at first nothing should happen, when it starts to stiffen up then the car should start braking a little, use brake deadzone to get this right.
Then lower the braking sensitivity to 25 to begin with(mine is set to 13 on T3PA Pedals with rubber thing)
Test drive! maximum braking should only be achived when you are pressing hard and try and find the sweet spot that feels natural to you.
lower sensitivity until the pedal barely brakes unless really pressed firmly, that way when you are braking heavy and one tire locks up you can release some pressure
and not have to actually lift your foot up.
Now..
Turn of ABS, go test and try braking into corners heavy and if you are locking the fronts up while braking in a straight line you need to adjust brake balance until you can press harder on the brakes than normal, cause that's what that is for. when the car starts locking up rears you need to throw a few clicks back and test again! when satisfied, lower brake pressure until it gets close to impossible to lock the brakes up... have a button on the wheel that controls ABS to turn it on in the rain or when to stressed, also map some buttons for the brake balance cause you might want to adjust it mid race if tire temp goes out of hand, also handy when tuning ofcourse :D.
And there you go, you can now start braking like a real master and trail braking should be easier than ever!
brake pressure at maximum does not mean maximum braking.
I think the comments below say it all really, thank you Jardier, looking forward to any follow up video's
That was really good. Glad your helping us understand changes in a setup and what it should do. Hard to believe that those minor changes you made and the car was so fast. You didn't even touch the gears and never went into 6th gear. I imagine if you changed your gears you would ever be faster. Glad your doing this series. I'm sure your followers are excited as I am to learn from one of the best drivers. Looking forward to more helpful videos. Thanks Jardier.
I think you cant change gears much in GT3 cars. Thank you Im glad you like it! :)
Jardier Maybe just change the final drive. You can definitely change the gears individually. I'm not trying to tell you what to do so please don't get mad at me. Your so dam good already but in my testing gears can make a huge difference. Thanks again for your help. Your awesome!!!
I will try mate thanks for the help! :) As I said in the video any help is appreciate! :)
Finally!! Been looking for a good video on setups but no one has done a good one until now. Thanks, Jardier! Keep up the good work!
If you're having trouble speaking while doing the laps, you can just record the laps in silence and do a voice-over afterwards. Or you just don't show us the laps, and say: "I did 5 laps, I improved X amount".
Very informative! I drive in the Audi R8 as well in a GT3 league, got a race in Portimão today and I was struggling quite a bit with the backend, I’ll try to use some of your suggestions
This is really helpful, thank you! I'm not wedded to a particular car, and like to drive them all, so it is REALLY helpful to have a starting point to go from when you hop from car to car. I used your advice to come up with profiles for several GT3 cars using these principles, and all of them are really enjoyable to drive. Thanks!
Love your videos bro, so fun and positive to watch you.
Finally the mic is in the right position and distance - no more clipping, when you get excited :-) great tutorial. I still have now clue though :-))
it would be really nice to do a step by step tuning with test laps and comment on the order of changes and what car behavior to look for.
Amazing video! I was surprised you didn't get some understeer by setting the front ARB so hard when compared to the rear. But I suppose the different spring rates counteract the effect a bit. I normally like a more reactive front too so i usually like to give it a bit of a forward biased ARB. Interesting that lowering the rear camber also helps the car turn in. Lots of good ideas for me to take away and improve my setups!
It did help me man. Made me more understand what some changes did! Keep it up
Hi Jardier. Nice video and explanations. I usually look at videos from Thekie25 but I do not know WHY he changed it that way. I like to know what the different settings do. The engineer helps a lot but not all (like dampers, ecu and diff). Love to see your next video on settings ;)
Thanks for the tips Jadier! Very helpful and very informative!
You should do more track guide vids. I know this was intended as a car setup guide but it actually was a good track guide too. There are some tracks I just can't seem to be fast on!
I don't understand why you leave the ducts as open as you do. the cars will stay cool at less than 50%.
You gotta set them up so they dont melt at the end of braking, not so theyre warm at the end of a straight
Awesome video.... do you have a Setup for the R8 Gt3 at Oultan Park?
Super-helpful video Jardier! I struggle a lot with setups, and appreciate the input of such an experienced person. So... its been a year since you did this though. Is it time for the "Dampers" tutorial now? :)
My logitech G920 get shaked how i fix it ?
U should demonstrate how to fine tune the dampers and ride height using the telemetry in motion. I've been trying to do that to keep the car's rear more planted when coasting over crests but not too aggressive that it causes the front to snap understeer
Looking forward to dampers. I can't help but think the car is bobbing too much in braking zones which is causing the car to bottom out and that could be alleviated by stiffening the dampers a bit or increasing (?) the spring rate. Lowering the ride height looked like it helped a bit, but it might just be masking the issue (but this is coming from someone who doesn't make setups at all and just uses ones from guys like you).
Gonna try these tips on my Ferrari and see if it helps me set better lap times. I'm a good driver I feel like it's the car setup that's holding me back
This was really helpful! You should definitely do another video!
Amazing video Bro. Thanks!
That was helpfull. I also would like to see a video about 1) the dampers setup and 2) tire pressure and camber. What I would like to know about that is what make a tire overheat? Low or high pressure? And what makes it wear more, high or low?
Hi there where did you get the Audi gt3. I have the game with all dlc”s but I cannot find this car
Great vid! Please do one of these for the clio cup!... I've seen you race many times in the clio and the car seems so planted, I'm currently in the clio cup with 100 AI and 75% aggression and I'm struggling, my lap times are consistently around 51.6 but they are in the 50 flats... I did the ginetta junior on these difficulties and smashed it but the clio car is all over the place... ha ha
These are very nice for basics, thank you. I have worked out a very nice setup for the Aston Martin Vantage GTE on dry tarmac - very fast and stable - I did a lot of the stuff you did in this video, but it likes to slide around a lot in heavy rain - snap oversteer (probably the driver accelerating to quickly - lol - but the rear does come around too much). And it's really bad when the track is drying out - and yes I've kept the wet tires on the car. I don't want to turn on SC in rain because it's not authentic, you understand. I like the sound of the car's V8. Could you go over Tuning for Rain, please?
That's a fast lap with a not so fast car on the track. Natural aspirated engines have a too big disadvantage on track with higher altitude and Red Bull Ring is over 600 m above sea level. It's promised that this get fixed with Patch 4.
I suck a bit on Red Bull and tried to find a GT3-car to compete in the Top 3. For me only the Ferrari seems fast enough, even it's not that fast anymore on other tracks. My favorite is the Ginetta, but whatever i try it's a second slower on Red Bull Ring. Not enough corners for this car to shine plus n-a V8:)
I downloaded a 1:27,7 setup for the Ferrari (probably made before Patch 3) with the TimeTrial-ghost and he was running 2/5-aero setup. Pretty stable setup and i even lowered the aero to 1/4.
Why you are starting with a "stable" setup? This is usually made for gamepad-users and their default i heard. Normally the brake-balance is more front and something different with the dampers and diff, probably for more inertia when they go full lock. Seems to work for you, but there's a lot of understeer in this stable-setups and maybe not that much oversteer from the suspension necessary when starting with the loose setups.
Nice. I like it. Especially with examples of driving with those setups.
Maybe I have wrong audio setup, I don't hear car hitting the ground.
Karol Jakusz-Gostomski only t2 and t3 :) a little bit
😀 thanks jardier I set a 3:25.982 on le mans thanks to your help
I would like to know about ride height/ground clearance in the GT3. do we really need to make the floor scraping at high speed like it is mentioned in most setup developer programs? I understand that we have to do it for the high downforce cars like F1 and LMP1, but for the GT cars? it is necessary? or shall we avoid it?
Mach-77 yes make the car low sadly dont use any possible mechanical grip... but i might be wrong but it works :D
I have a challenge for you! I was picking tracked I had never raced on before and came a cross a course with 3 I think turn. I didn’t realise it was a rally stage and it was covered in snow and it was also incredibly short. I did not come equipped as I was in a Chevrolet Indy car (The one with the larger back wing) and the car record for this track was 28seconds so my challenge to you is to beat that world record. I got my time down to about 31 but honestly that wasn’t that hard considering nature of the track but trying to push it beyond that was hard. Damage on by default and no changing the car, go with whatever auto tune and wheels they give you and good luck :-) Obviously film it :p
TheSnaveeel which track?:D
Sampala ice circuit xD
:D
Will you play with pc? Setup is different from XBOX and PS4 because is different the way to drive and wheel perfomances.
Well I can tell you a great setup doesn't help if your shit at driving . 3 times today watched this going back and foward but can't get under a 1.33 after 50 laps so I quit. Great driving mate.
Hi Jardier, how come you aren't taking the car to redline during hard acceleration?
nice time on the track but can this setup be used for a "longer" (15laps) run ? low pressuere @ this track temps works for me maybe 2-3 laps and the tyres are gone ( overheating )
sichniX maybe you can add tyre pressure but it works for me no problem for 5-7 laps as I tried on hard tyres :o
yea yea i know thx :))
i wonder that holds for a time, i drive redbull in spring ( always in my lobby spring time :) ) and i cant drive on that low pressure ( yea 2-3 laps works ), maybe the 911 is the "problem" :)
sichniX yeah it might be every car is unique!
Does anyone else just remove the bump stop? I see no point in it really apart from making the car feel a bit heavier
Hei Jardier! I m having soooo many problems with the game lately: I can't drive with soft tyres, neither hard tbh, because everytime I wanna ride through a corner, they just start smoke like a cimney! It happens mostly with fast cars, such as GT3, Super trofeo, GT1, LMP900 and so on... Useless to say the tyres wear out very quickly, and in a few corners the car becomes undrivable.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO FOR IT. I tried many settings, brake ratio, brake pressure, camber, toe in angle and so on, but nothing changes.
I'm using low TCS, strong ABS and stability control activated.
Please help a lost soul like me master!
Hey mate - smoke is bug in game it does nothing to your car :) Use hard tyres not soft :)
Well, to be fairly honest I ve noticed many people say that is a BUG...
I do believe there is a bug with that, of course. But in my case, and I don't know how many others are experiencing my same problems, it doesn't just make my tyre SMOKE. I wouldn't care if the tyres smoked, but could still perform properly, without getting killed in a few laps.
Infact, not only the tyres smoke, but become hotter and hotter from corner to corner, and braking becomes almost impossible, especially if the car I'm driving is a fast one.
I know hard tyres help a LITTLE BIT but still they tend to wear out too fast...
Might be a bad set-up, or the fact I'm using a controller... But i'm reaaaaaally struggling with it.
I'd be grateful if you could give me a hand, cause I don't want to leave PC2. It is the most challenging racing game I've ever played!
If you are using controller there might be problem that you "steer" too much? I dont know how controllers work
I don't really know man, I try to be as careful and gentle as I can... But it doesn't even matter hahaha Tyres would just blow up in a few laps...
Damn it is annoying as hell...
If you want specific help I'd suggest making a video and soliciting help. Take the car on track, keep the tire temps HUD up and then go to the setup and through the various pages. Every car and track is different. What works on Brands Hatch at 20 C track temp won't work on COTA at 60 C track temp. It is challenging and not all problems can be solved but specifics are needed for specific help.
when you click start I see that the stable setup is loaded so I think you made those first laps with default stable setup. Oh yeah and they have now in update 4 made fixes to the settings and saving and so on so it should be better and more consistent now
You driving really nice 👍
Great video, I see you hit your breaking marks pretty late which will improve my lap times.
Great stuff. Thanks for the effort.
Where is part 2 , with the dampers , couldnt find it in your videos. Cheers
You cant find it because you didnt watch.
Do you ever adjust the Steering Ratio? For me I like to keep it around 6-10 (no farther than 180 degree of steering rotation, but that is just my personal preference.) Great vid btw!
DobieMeltfire most of the time i use default :D
Do you have abs on high?
Dareon Anderson yes it works best for me since ESL
Jardier ok thanks, very helpful video
How can u tell if u hit the ground?
Why do cars (especially the GT 3 ones) understeer with soft slicks, hard slicks widen the maximum steering angle, it´s unrealistic to drive with hard slicks even in short races
Will try this 👍🦅🇺🇸🦅
Very good! we need more!!!! :-)
nice video. why hood view not cockpit? I saw R3E and AC you are on cockpit view. cheers!
I dont know I dont fancy that view on my monitor in pcars :D I need bigger screen
im on 34" ultrawide and tbh never tried roof, bumper or hood view. I checked it now in pc2 and you can really better feel break points but dunno why it feels for me so unnatural hehe
As we race in ESL with forced default setup I dont like the "hands" moving in the game when you steer too much which you always do in forced default setup with TC or 488GT3. I know I can turn off the wheel but I dont know I prefer Roof cam for that. Sorry if it bothers you :(
no ofc it dont bother me I was just curious I always lookin for best solutions thats why Im askin ;)
and Im driving with cockipt view with hands and wheel turned off becouse I prefer to see my own wheel arms hehe
How race engineer is working for you guys?
appreciated from brazil
Im on playstation. I love this game but its so annoying how this game doesnt remember settings. Ill set my car up then the race will start and ill have a default setup. Or like ill have 3 laps of fuel and start the race with a full tank
A bit late, but want to help out. Try saving changes on a new slot. I know of a bug, on pc at least, where if you overwrite a setup it (sometimes) doesn't save.
koen2702 i appreciate te response:) good news is i think they fixed it with that update because its definately saving me settings now
Great video
Ahoj. Sledoval jsem par on-line závodu a všiml jsem si, ze jsi z ČR. Myslíš si, ze by jsi byl schopný udělat pár návodu v češtině? Je mi jasný, že to zabere spoustu hodin práce. Ale v této hře jsem nováček a v těch nastavení trochu plavu 😂 takhle bych to jen okopíroval a šel bych jezdit 🤣 Ještě bych se rad zaptal, jak moc se tyto nastavení mění s jízdou za mokra, nebo v proměnných podmínkách? Jinak držím palce v sezóně 😊
Your car was smoking rear tires on exit ? What is that supposed to simulate bro
Jon A no that was bug in project cars that got fixed, many ppl had that - did nothing to car was only visual
Nice video !
Great vid 👍
Спасибо
thx really helping
Good video!
I need this so bad
what do you think about this tyre pressure guide? forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?57541-Project-CARS-2-Tyre-Temps
because it differ a lot from your choice
otherwise, thanks for the tutorial and i'm looking forward for the next videos! great work
Oh just saw that comment from a week ago :)
10:01 hahaha
good video, but sound is not very good, i work with as a producer for 15 years , i am able to correct and improve it , dedskin At gmail. Everything on the internet labeled as Dedskin is my work, a lot of it as a Ghost Producer but anyways , I have 10 000 $ in Studio Equipment, and pricing is as low as 5$ so why not . Have nice day
Great video 👍