ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2024
- Rat Rig V-Core 3: www.ratrig.com/v-core3configu... [Code V31VECTOR3D for 20 EUROs off](slight change since filming)
Duet 3D: www.duet3d.com/Duet3Mini5plus
3D Printz: 3dprintz.co.uk/
Vector 3D Workbench on Kickstarter!: - Now Ended - (Now on sale! vector3d.co.uk/store/V3WB-Vec...)
The RatRig V-Core 3 is a configurable CoreXY 3030 extrusion frame 3D printer kit. In this video I'll give you my opinions on the machine after a few weeks of testing.
Purchase Links
Rat Rig V-Core 3: www.ratrig.com/v-core3configu... [Code V31VECTOR3D for 20 EUROs off](slight change since filming)
Prusament Filament: shop.prusa3d.com/en/42-prusam...
Note: Affiliate links tell the shop that I sent you. If you purchase, it costs you nothing extra, but I get a small cut from the seller which helps support the channel and allows me to take time to make great videos for you to watch.
Printed Files Attribution
Wonder Woman Bust: www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Benchy (boat): www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
Addams Family Thing (hand): www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
The Torture Toaster: www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
TTC: www.thingiverse.com/thing:489...
Useful Links
My Live V-Core 3 Build Playlist: • RatRig V-Core 3
Discord Group: / discord
Facebook Group: / ratrig3dprintercommunity
My Github: github.com/AdamV3D/V-core-3
STLs for cable management: github.com/AdamV3D/V-core-3/t...
0:00 RatRig V-Core 3 3D Printer Review
1:41 Delivery and Packaging
2:39 Assembly Process
6:04 Setup and Configuration
7:18 Community and Support
8:37 Ease of Use
9:55 Noise Levels
11:08 Hotend and Extruder
13:31 Kinematic Bed
16:18 CoreXY Kinematics
17:34 Safety
19:38 Slicing
20:21 Print Quality
22:26 V-Core 3 Conclusions
24:26 Full Disclosure
All my V-Core 3 Mods can be found here: github.com/AdamV3D/V-Core-3-V...
Other Platforms
Patreon: / vector3d
Twitter: @Adam_V3D
V3D Discord: / discord
V3D Merch: vector3d.co.uk/product-catego...
Tools
Wera Hex Keys: amzn.to/3gIYdNV
Wera Ratchet and Socket Set:https: amzn.to/3gH0OrY
Knipex Cutter: amzn.to/2Wylf2M
Ifixit Tool kit: amzn.to/3BdJXES
Wire Stripper Tool: amzn.to/3kC7hoW
3M Applicator Tool: amzn.to/3jqc8ud - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
By popular demand, Voron 2.4 300 build coming up next so I can compare. I'd say that's worth subscribing for :)
I'm in that delema right now! I've build and love my Voron V0 and I want to get a 350x350x350 coreXY printer. I live the Voron V2.4/1.8 but the Ratrig is aso very interesting.
I clicked on this because the thumbnail looked almost like a modded voron. 😂
Ooooh, that'll be interesting to hear about...
The true test for any enthusiast, objectivity, looking forward to this!!
You are and I both know, when you say: Honest review. It's the opposite of it. You are promoting a product.
Thanks for all of your work on this. I'm really glad you like it as my 400mm kit arrived a week ago. I'm finishing up X-change mounting mods on my 4 Ender 5s, then can start on this.
My plan is using a Fystec Spider, X-change mounts and an OmniaDrop direct drive hot end.
Watching your build series made me order a kit as well. Can't wait for mine to arrive!
I was thinking about building this printer, but decided to go for Voron 2.4 and ph boy im so happy with my decision 😉 ive got 350 cube size, enclosed with glas panels, tuned with klipper firmware, this printer is crazy well done 😉
It’s just cooler in every way
By far the most impressive machine out there. I am building one once kit arrives, completing Jubilee tool changer machine right now.
why the voron over the vcore?
@@kcdakrt because it's more hard to build, costs more, you gotta deal with the flying gantry, the racking and so on.
@@10magicalfingers27 I am going to have to disagree on this. Maybe way back when the v2 started but the documentation and the community on the discord can walk you through and fix any possible issue you encounter. It's not hard to build at all its pretty damn easy the 2.4 was a breeze for me but my v0 was hard but that's because it's small. Don't want flying gantry v1 v0 and Switchwire are all there too. As far as expense. Yea it's not a 300 dollar printer. You can save quite a bit by sourcing everything yourself I spent maybe 400 on my v2.4 and it's got all the bells and whistles you could want. But for that you gotto buy stuff when it's on sale or discounted. Sadly too many people want printers like this but don't wanna do the work to have them.
Just finished my build an it was a lot of fun. It's printing now some of the best prints I've ever made. I even used parts refactored by Vector 3D, thanks!!
Thanks for your videos buildingvthis printer. Finally finished mine and first actual print was almost perfect. At least to my eyes. Time to print some clips and mods. Great printer.
With the v-core 4 in the coming days/weeks, I think we need an updated version of this video too
Great review Adam, It's great to see a printer that's not just the same as the rest and unlike many other TH-camrs it's great to see you want to help make it even better. Looking for to seeing those ABS parts put to use.
Thanks for your opinions. Definitely got me perked up.
...said the actress to the bishop. 😉
Thank you very much for your insight.
Good that I ordered yesterday... So, bad luck with the discount.
But honestly... The prices are definitely good, especially for the frame parts and I ordered a lot in addition.
They are also very helpful in customizing even more.... My print volume will be 300x300x400 and I'm totally looking forward getting it 😀
ordered it, with your code.
big thanks, your vid's were really very good and informative. appreciate.
Awesome, thank you!
You’re workbench looks mint!
Adam, I fully agree on the ABS position. Out of experience, the current parts are solid enough to repeint your own parts in ABS on this machine. One should start with the fan duct for obvious reasons. What I highly recommend: Do also reprint the arms with ABS. The arm surface is only about 10mm from the silicone heater, and during long prints, I found hotspots with 74°C. That‘s too much for PETG, and nobody wants a 230V bed at 110°C to fall down.
While the concern is definitely valid, and i agree it's a good idea, remember to mention you were printing ABS fully enclosed when you did that measurement. Other members have measured 50 degrees with 100c on the bed unenclosed, which is still fine. No reports of a falling bed AFAIK! :)
@@miklschmidt Well, I am with Adam on this: This is a printer that is in a class for advanced filaments. And most of those require 90-110° and a closed chamber. If you want to do that, reprint the EVA and the arms as a minimum.
@@miklschmidt You guys did a seriously amazing job on this printer. It just screams to be used for difficult prints. This is way more than a hobby machine.
It really needs to be printed in ABS. PETG is a great material for an Ender 3, this is not an Ender. RatRig deserves better.
@@DetlevRackow 100% agree.
@@joshua43214 Thank you, although i can't take the credit there, i only came into the BETA/Dev team very close to release! I can't say i disagree about the ABS. But PETG is more rigid, easier to print and totally fine for open frame printing as has been proven time and time again. It's not a bad material by any means. Just because there's a better one out there for enclosed printing, doesn't mean it makes the existing one a bad choice, it depends on your needs :)
It's not a walk in the park to transform your entire production line into ABS printing machines. It's a process, and i know they're looking into options for how to tackle it :)
I just finished building my 500mm V-Core 3, and wanted to say thanks for your videos!
You're welcome 😊
@Joseph Jaramillo
I really wanna build a 500mm vcore 3 or voron 2.4 but I’ve run across some people advising against one that size. Do you have any advice or regrets?
@@David-ym2vk No regrets at all. I love it.
Nice Video ;) As always
Excellent and very fair review! I pretty much agree with all the points you made, especially the one about a high flow option. I never recommend the default kit because there are much MUCH better options out there. Thankfully, you can fix that by ordering a configurable kit!
You're right about the slicers, it's a difficult nut to crack. V-CoreOS does come with start / end print macro's, firmware retraction defaults and sane pressure advance settings for all the available options right out of the box, so that should help a little bit, but this is definitely a point where the DIY aspect is obvious.
Are you gonna test the Duet 3.4 Beta 2? It should have input shaping now, no idea how good it is in comparison to klipper, but it looks like a good start! I haven't seen significant ringing for something like a year now 😂
It's been super fun following the process, and i can't wait to see what you do with it in the future! :D
I recently built a self sourced v-core 3. I have the same problem with my duet 3 mini failing to enable the fan in thermostatic mode. I disabled stealthchop in favor of spreadcycle, and it improved the stepper noise while printing. Thanks for the video.
If you don't mind, did you manage to get it significantly cheaper?
Did you source a lot from more or less shady shops from China or how did you source locally?
I'm considering a V-core 3 but the lead times are a real bummer. One month is totally fine by me, but three months is a bit long for my taste.
We'll see, I'll ask if it's faster without printed parts. I'd just get a used printer for cheap or get it printed by a friend. Probably preferable anyway for an enclosed printer. I'd use cf-ASA or ABS for good measure.
just got a ender 3 v2 last week and as iv had the week off with a cold iv been tinkering and messing with it in the free time iv had and i must say i cant wait to get to the level of something like this Rat Rig it looks amazing just a few months of learning on this ender 3 and i must say i think i will go for a rat rig as my next printer the only thing that scares me is getting the slicer profile right as with the ender iv hardly had to touch it as there is a pre set :O tho im sure its simple enough to get right
Super good video 👍
I'm really excited for V-Minion, I hope it will be released soon :)
Thanks, i'm excited too. I just hope they're not spreading themselves too thin. V-Core 3 is great and I don't want anything to take away from that.
@@Vector3DP First I thought about building a V-Core 3, but I don't need a printer that big. I already own a Prusa Mini and I'm very happy with it. The build volume is perfect for me, and the V-Minon has the same size I think. And the Minion would look really cool next to my Mini :D
We need some core-xy heated chamber variants now that the stratasys heated chamber patent has expired. A heated chamber is THE difference maker when trying to print the large prints with warp prone materials.
looking forward to that hotend video, been wanting to move on from the V6 but haven't the faintest clue what products are better.
Nero 3DP has a great video on this. I'd suggest you get the TriangleLabs Dragon Hotend or Slice Mosquito
This was truly an epic build...thank you for undertaking it! It will definitely become a valuable resource.
Now that you've built it...following the directions...what would change to make it better/easier/more square?
Will there be follow-up video?
I'm planning to do another video that will probably help answer your questions.
I’m looking forward to getting mine in the next few weeks. The print quality looks fab.
Thank you for your review, i have considered to by one for some time - i just did (using you code). i hope you got a little kickback of my 1200 euro purchase. Thx.
That's great, thanks for using my code. Enjoy your machine when it arrives :)
great video overall, looking forward to a comparison to the voron (which is what I'm leaning towards)
As an aside though, am I the only one that noticed quite a bit of (what I assume is) compression artifacting through out the video - though maybe it's due to the kinda unusual 50fps freamerate 🤷♂️
15:00 I think they changed the bed. Mine came with an unlabeled rough PEI one that looks similar but is missing the logo.
The magnet feels quite strong as well, so maybe that was changed as well. Size is still the same though
Interesting. even if its just slightly thicker, that will increase the attraction.
Awesome :-) now I know what to do today..
Is it possible to homing with excessive Z-axis twist?
I wonder if maybe the tool head is hitting the bedplate.
Does Ratrig have a workaround to avoid the problem?
I really hope you build a voron next. As i think the only thing was left out in this one is ghosting and klipper input shaping is really great at eliminating it. I have a v2.4 and i like it.
How much did your 2.4 setup run you?
Input shaping is now available on the duet (I am building a voron though!)
@@ShamoyRahman it costed around 1300$. Started sourcing last November.
@@JamesElise160 Goodluck. Hope you really enjoy the build
@@mwd_85 It took many months to source everything to get that kind of price?
Great review. Long time Lulzbot, but looking for something new. I think I found it. Thanks!
Good critique points, while also paintng the overall big picture of it all being worth it.
Thanks for this video! Looking very much forward to give this guy steroids for speed and quality… as soon as my kit finally arrives 😀
Hmmm.. an e3d volcano??
@@Nitram_3d lol, you jest! 😂
@@Nitram_3d hmmmmmmmm..... volc... can't pronounce it :D
@@247printing ohhh...
awesome bro really nice printer
highspeed makes sense on large 3dprinters(30cm or more), small 3dprinters...well it is more challeging to get it full to full speed (and honestly limited), my current is voron legacy, still outsourcing components to upgrade the size (to 60cm) voron 2.4
Ok, as you asked for guesses: I guess the Eva-Dragon-mount is for a dragon on your vc3. The rest of the vc3 parts are, probably, drum rolls.... for the vc3
Genius! BUT WHY?! :)
@@Vector3DP Enclosure incomming I'd say
@@Vector3DP To enclose it.
But what are my options if I don't want to assemble it? Are there similar printers that come fully assembled?
Mine should be coming either tomorrow or Friday can't wait. Yes it's been a long wait :p
Excellent! I'm sure you'll love it.
@@Vector3DP after all those streams i followed hence i got it in the first place i am sure i will thank you and i am sure i will check back on those streams building a long a bit haha :) (again thanks for the code)
Could you post a summary version of your v-core 3 upgades, where you just go over the problems you encountered and your solution to it?
you said that a bigger part will warp the metal sheet. did you have this happened to you? or is it just a guess?
What is the hotend/extruder that would do it justice?
This vs voron? I’m looking to finally get a 3rd printer that’s higher end then my creality cr 6se.
Looking forward to the test of high flow hotends.. Nice review Adam.
Hi Adam, I have recently been using the nozzle cleaning filament on my Micro Swiss hot end and even after a cold pull it still bings out a bit of the previous filament, I was getting more than average clogging but since I started cleaning my nozzle out when changing different types of filament I am yet to have one in more than 300 hours of printing
I have quite a lot of the cleaning filament that Rigid.Ink used to sell, in this case it didn't really help though because more force didn't push the blockage though so the filament couldn't get down there. Heating was the right way to go in this case i think.
Really nice machine! Also great objective review! Can really tell when someone is honest!
Thanks, I do try my best :)
Is kinematic bed used to increase overhang treshold by tilting part to get decreased angle to put another layer? Or just for sole purpose of auto leveling?
Just for levelling. There is currently no slicer support for overhang assistance like this.
@@Vector3DP Thanks for reply. Potential is there. Also ironing of angled surfaces could be a thing.
I ordered my vcore3 with same duet, but LGX extruder and mosquito magnum after watching your build.
I didn't see your affiliate link though sorry. I can give my order number if Ratrig will associate my order with your channel.
Really looking forward to the build. I'm a little dubious about doing the mains wiring though.
Thanks for uploading your side panel with IEC cutout.
You mentioned additional fixings needed. Washers and some T nuts for panels. What should I order? Also, is it worth getting some better idlers for the build given the hassle of taking it all apart if one were faulty. If so what would you recommend.
Thanks.
BTW : The Caribou you built on live stream is still printing perfectly. I've just regreased the bearings last week, apart from that never needed any attention 👍
don't worry about it mate. I think you'll be fine, its not too bad, and the back panel arrangement is an easy workspace. live stream always there if you need it :) If not actually been back and reviewed the exact parts needed to change this, I was kinda hoping ratrig would sort it tbh. My best guess at the moment would be M5 x 10 screws, washers and 3030 M5 t nuts for the enclosure panels. For the frame assembly, M6 x 16 screws and M6 Heavy Duty Flat Washers (DIN 7349) would be needed i think. You might be able to get away with using normal m6 washers and the included screws, but it will reduce the thread engagement by 1.6mm.
Glad the caribou is still going strong, great printer that one :)
You talk about the v6 being not able to keep up with the rest of the machine. Of the options that ratrig provides, which one do you think is the best option(i.e. has the highest flow, like you suggest)?
Of the parts you can get with the kit direct from ratrig, the highest flow rate in theory is the mosquito magnum.
@@Vector3DP is that the only change you would do from the "default configuration"? Trying to figure out what I should order when I get my ratrig (my only previous 3d printer is a ender3)
How do you compare this to voron 2.4? What is the fastest 300x300 printer today?
Check annex engineering k3
i think it would be really beneficial if ratrig got away from the lead screws and went with a belted zed, lead screws just have to many problems u have to make sure u didnt get a bent one u have to make sure you set the coupler on straight then set the lead screw in straight, i know lead screws work but for some people that didnt get lucky and got one that is a little bit bent or whatever, you dont have to worry about any of that with belts the only thing u have to deal with belts is did i tighten it to much or to little and i would much rather have that problem than to deal with lead screws... oh sorry got off on a rant great video Adam/Vector3D
The problem is not lead screws, the problem is cheap-ass Makers using cheap-ass lead screws. Lead screws are better in almost every way to belts with the exception of rotational mass - which is not an issue on the z-axis.
All that said, the z-screw implementation on the V-core is done well, but has some room for improvement. For instance, the coupler rests on a bearing, but the screw should be machined round, and the round section should be supported, and then enter the couling.
either way, it is far better than the nightmare of overcomplication that the Voron uses.
@@joshua43214 lead screws are not better than belts good belts, even vector hinted at z wobble but didnt go there z wobble is a problem you wouldnt have if running belts, running belts on the z is also faster it is just better all around
@@3dprintingcave778 Belts have less mass, which makes them able to accelerate faster, which is not an issue with the z-axis. What is an issue is stretch, belts will stretch, and then vibrate on rapid acceleration, something that a screw will not do. Belts also lead to an under-damped system, and overall more vibration. Screws by their nature and over-damped and will contribute to reduced overall vibration.
Good lead screws are very very straight, and will not give any z wobble at all.
I can give a real life example. I spent the morning doing Laser Capture Micro-dissection. The stage has about 150mm of x-travel and uses 3mm lead screws. I repeatedly dissected out tissue samples of approx. 20um^2, even the smallest bit of run out in the lead screws would have given me samples contaminated with neighboring unwanted material since the stage floats on ball bearings. Not only will the stage return to exactly where it came from every time, it moves fast enough that it stings if it hits you.
Belts are for conveyors, not precision equipment. Like I said, the issue is not screws, the issue is poor quality screws.
@@joshua43214 the belts on my printer run perfectly fine good belts do that, what your talking about is most likly very expensive lead screws or ballscrews which are not used on 3d printers for the most part not hobby printers not even a little above hobby level, i have been running this printer with belts for over a year i dont see anything you decribed happening with my system, but you can like what u like ill like what i like that makes everyone happy and for me i think all mid and highend 3d printers should all be run on belts it is far better than china lead screws
Compare with the voron?
There's some serious ghosting going on in those example prints. I think some additional fine tuning of the printer and/or slicer profiles is need my friend. Looking forward to your voron 2.4 comparison as I'm trying to decide between the two atm.
great video as always 👍😀
Thanks again!
does the bed have any deflection ?
Great review; I’ll be very interested to see your results with a high flow rate hotend. (Maybe a Hemera?) I’m considering a VCore 3 for my next printer, want high speed, large build volume and “fire and forget” reliability, but at the same time don’t want to have to sink tons of time into tuning. It’d be a huge boost if you came up with a solid high-flow configuration and could post the tuning settings.
Also, relative to the ghosting, have you looked at the Klipper firmware yet? I understand that it can compensate for vibration and mechanical ringing, but I don’t know how it would compare to the long-established Reprap platform.
Never thought i'd see high flow rate hotend and Hemera in the same sentence 😂 Hemera (and similar extruder/hotend combos) should be avoided for CoreXY use. Hemera in particular is quite heavy and there are no good balanced way to mount those considering that the carriage is moving in both X and Y directions, so it will result in unwanted print artifacts. You should be looking at something like LGX / Orbiter, Dragon HF, Mosquito Magnum etc.
With regards to klipper, look up V-CoreOS :)
I agree with @mikkel
@@miklschmidt Ah, thanks for that note! I liked the idea of the Hemera for its tightly-controlled filament path, which seemed like it'd make it ideal for flexible filaments. I'll check out the others you mentioned, and look forward to whatever Vector 3D chooses to test!
@@DEtchells people have done tpu at 100+ mm/s with EVA, so it’s a bit overrated. If you go for ninjaflex and stuff you have to print slow no matter what, you’re pushing a wet noodle through a steel tube. Might as well use cheap bed slingers for that :)
@@miklschmidt Oh, for sure; I don't expect to print flex filament at any other than slooow speeds. My interest in the VCore 3 is to finally have a really solid printer as a "daily driver" that I can get dialed in and then just forget about. Right now I just have a MP Mini and a Rostock Max that's currently in a very finicky phase of its life. I'd like to be able to get a printer set up and dialed in and then just not have to think about it much. I'd like the speed for the usual PLA, PETG or Nylon prints, but want the option to run things like Ninjaflex if I want to.
(I'd actually like an IDEX machine so I could use a separate support material, and have been looking at the Ratrig V-cast, but I like the VCore 3's much more rigid-looking frame, linear rails, higher speed capability and the fact that the Z-axis only moves up and down in CoreXY designs. It sounds like you have a lot of experience; what would you choose if you were going to have just one FDM printer, whether single or dual-extruder?)
I’m literally on the cusp of ordering and I was going to order the default kit up until your point regarding the hot end. Would you order one of the other configurable hot ends, or buy one not listed on the ratrig site?
The Dragon HF (you'll have to get that elsewhere) or Mosquito Magnum is a great match :)
I went with the Magnum on my 500mm. Do not buy anything but the PEI from RatRig if you are in the US. You will save hundreds by using US based suppliers because European prices for about everything are highly inflated. Get the 110v heater directly from Keenovo, keep in mind that a 1000W heater will draw almost 10A, you need a 15A (min) wall outlet.
I added a ton of extra options like a touch screen, camera, smart filament sensor, etc, and still came in well under what it would have cost to order the basic parts from RatRig.
@@joshua43214 I currently heavily rely on octoprint to send and monitor prints. Can octoprint run on the Duet boards or do you just run the web interface? If the latter can I still hook up a web cam and monitor prints when not on the same wifi
And also very interested by you modification for a higher flow rate hot end!
EVA supports mosquito and dragon so plenty of high flow options. just gotta buy the parts. Easy peasy :)
So if there's noise coming from the linear bearings... They normally only come with a transport oil, have you cleaned them out with a degreaser and packed them with fresh grease?
Nero3dp talks about this in a few videos, a shorter one is here: Voron V2 build and sourcing Pt2 Motion, th-cam.com/video/Q0l-zMLztCs/w-d-xo.html
I almost went with a RatRig, but decided upon the Hevort instead. 565mm x 565mm x 590mm.
15:30 Maybe you can just change the calibration points to be 5-10 mm further in, then positioning isn't as critical
I did make this firmware modification to my config.g for that very reason.
Hw does this compare to a voron?
I am in India can i still book the workbench amd if yes where?
Thank you for this vid, doesn't look right for me but a good printer. Been looking for several months to finding a 3D printer upgrade worth doing over my Prusa mk3S without going to Ultimaker 3, Makerbot Method etc money.
that thing in the vid is as good as it gets at this price point and a definitive upgrade over the mk3s, what are you looking for?
The "other option" for mounting the electronics on the ratrig is DIN rails. They're pretty cheap too.
Can this printer use 0.9 steppers?
Kinda sad the kickstarter didn't go through. I'd totally buy it if I lived in the states and shipping to my country wasn't a total nightmare. Workbenches for this kind of work are a necessity with little supply. meanwhile, everybody and their mother is making a new Ender 3 clone.
What is the fastest speed you can push the V6 in the default configuration?
10-12mm^3/s volumetric flow. The print speed depends on layer height and line width.
My next printer is going to be a Vcore3 i just love the z axis setup and the duet boards
First need to make my ender 3 a reliable printer
Btw. I saw some nice engineering square you had used during the stream build of this printer, can I know the PN/MAKE/MODEL?
www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/measuring-and-test-equipment/squares-and-straight-edges/engineer's-squares/f/1628
I think this is what you're referring to?
@@Vector3DP Yes but does it not come in some blue box? Or you 3D printed it?
Yep, comes in that box.
@@Vector3DP Ok thanks ordered the 6" one
@@Vector3DP Just received it today, good stuff, thanks again.
Do you have any other tool recommendations?
I saw you also had those wera hex plus keys so you must know good tools.
For me SK-Go² is the way to go, i'm budgetising for the TANK
Great review !
I was actually planning to get a custom-sized kit (which they can make when asking) to convert my current printer to CoreXY. So, this review reinforces that this would be a very good choice, the additional hardware to buy being minimal. No Duet board for me, SKR will do the job running Klipper.
One remark, though : while it's true the v6 can melt around 12 cubic-mm/s of filament, the speed at which you'll eventually print also depends on the extrusion temperature.
The faster you print, the hotter the filament has to be melted. Usual temperatures are fine up to 80 mm/s or so. Yet when you go past 100 mm/s, you have to increase the temperature unless you have a high-flow hotend such as Mosquito Magnum, Nova, or (Super)Volcano. If you don't intend to print faster than 250-300 mm/s, a standard v6 would be fine with appropriate temperatures (and cooling).
I'm printing at 120-150 mm/s on a classic cartesian running Klipper, with peaks of 200 mm/s, and temps had to be increased to quite higher values for the filament to properly melt using a v6-style hotend. PLA, for instance, prints really well at 225°C (1st layer : 215°C, slower) at these speeds.
Ye, printing hotter only works because the point where the filament leaves the hotend is not actually getting to that temperature and/or it requires highter temperature to increase the rate of heat transfer. Obviously it works, but its not technically 'stable'
@@Vector3DP Yes, that's right. It's more a temporary workaround than a stable solution. High flow hotends remain mandatory, sooner or later.
Now I'd like to see you build a voron, even if just a v0/0.1 just to see the difference between the design quality differences. :)
Lets put it this way, I've typed the number 2.4 quite a lot over the last few days.
How can you compare quality between the two?
Rat Rig offers you a kit that you can buy from the team/company that designed the printer while Voron offers you a BOM.
If you source the parts right the quality will be good if you go with the chinese kits the quality will be … well… whatever the seller of the kit wants :).
@@mariusmym well, Although you're correct, I fell like comparing this to a similarly priced kit. Would be interested.
@@Vector3DP not sure how much you know about vorons, but the 1.8 is more closely comparable to the rat rig than the 2.4, but the 2.4 is more popular and it has a stable bed and a Z moving gantry. (1.8 has a z moving bed, and stationary gantry).
That being said the 2.4 is the most popular "kit" (unofficial, as voron doesn't come in kit form, and can come with potentially questionable quality for some parts selection). as I'm sure you've seen if your common "2.4" search history, the channel Nero 3dp may have come up. He has a kit analysis of the 2.4 (although from only 1 of the multiple suppliers, and as he mentions, some of the parts he got in the kit may not be what you get due to supply).
Regardless, it would be an interesting comparison, especially since I don't think of the bigger TH-cam channels (yourself in that category) has not a rat rig and a voron.
And as you may be aware, but perhaps others may not be, the voron's use different control boards (although they can use a duet if desired), but use a raspberry pi, different firmware (klipper) and plenty of other changes.
But I wanted to spark your interest in it again, although it seems to have been on your mind more than I would have expected given your previous comment. :)
Either way, look forward to seeing more great content! Thanks for all your hard work, and taking us along the journey with you. I'm glad you have rekindled part of the spark of 3d printers after the monotony of very similar style machines. :)
@@brandoneich2412 Klipper is an option on the V-Core 3 as well, and as the developer of V-CoreOS (preconfigured klipper package for the V-Core) i would very much prefer if the comparison used the same firmware :D
Wenn das Lager quietscht, dann ist es bereits futsch. Wohl die Gurte zu fest angezogen und dadurch die feinen Nagellager in den Umlenkrollen pulverisiert.
Noch quietsch und knattert es aber mit der Zeit frisst sich das feine Pulver was dabei entsteht durch das Lager und nach recht kurzer Zeit bricht es aus und verursacht sehr viel Spiel.
Thanks for the info, i'll look into it. Getting belt tension just right can be a tough exercise i feel. For those not german this is the google translate of the above comment: "If the bearing squeaks, then it's already gone. Probably the belts tightened too tightly and pulverized the fine nail bearings in the pulleys.
It still squeaks and rattles, but over time the fine powder that is created eats its way through the bearing and after a very short time it breaks out and causes a lot of play."
Good video. Is that the 300x300 version?
yup
the ponint of the 3 point contact is to truly level the bed ,not tram. there is no deformation of the bed platform itself
So If the printer is laying on its side, is the bed still level?
How do I get one in the US?
Hi I was going to back The Workbench project but unfortunately you dont ship to USA
No sadly not, very expensive to ship.
LOL Rat Rig V-Core 3: i'm the best kit! / Voron Design (voron 2.4): "Hold my beer"😁
The rat rig is superior to the voron, even if its only slightly. Still both have their draw backs. There is no perfect printer on the market yet...not even for 10k more. Even those have their draw backs
Hi!
a few things:
as a reviewer, I wish you tested the dimensions/tolerances (tho honestly for a printer like this there's no chance it can't do 0.15mm tolerances and outside dimensions 0.05mm).
but the biggest thing was that you never mentioned the max speed/acceleration you can reach for outer perimeters, which is one of the big reasons someone would spend this much on a printer like this and choose corexy.
also i wish you showed more prints from all sorts of angles/lightning with non/glitter matte or special filament. using generic black/grey/green etc. rotating the print in the X/Y axis would show more. also shining filaments like the ones you used. you know just generic pla.
Any comparison RatRig V-Core 3 400x400mm vs Voron 2.4 CoreXY 300x300mm? Kinda similar price.
You probably want to get subscribed. Just saying 😉
RatRig is much much more rigid. Voron is very very overcomplicated
@@joshua43214 I would disagree. The voron is miles better in design and function imo.
@@JustKyzuuh give me an example
Any reason to use Klipper on this over their firmware?
Yes. V-CoreOS (preconfigured klipper package) will make your setup experience easier, and you will get a higher performing printer, because of the way klipper works (computation done on the infinitely faster pi, only instructions sent to MCU). Furthermore klipper has a very solid input shaper implementation and plenty of horse power to execute it properly, where as RRF's input shaping just entered beta, and it's all done on the comparatively slow MCU.
Of course there's a whole bunch of other reasons to use klipper, which i won't get into here :)
@@miklschmidt That's kinda what I figured, but I'm still a n00b, haha.
Thanks for the thorough response, friend!
Pretty sure I spotted a dragon hotend mount for the Eva carriage 😁
Hello I have a question because I can’t clearly hear what you are saying in the video about the Z-linear kinematic system. Are you saying that the system is “not” sensitive for z-wobble artifacs when printing tall objects ? Thanks up front for your response
There was not much Z wobble.
Do you have a link for the rat rig 3D model
You can find the link on their github page:cad.onshape.com/documents/d94df008ab784b239866b668/w/ab1c5f2e60ecc0f22d346772/e/b8a9a500995d657088a1bb8b
I've got you a direct link here: cad.onshape.com/documents/d94df008ab784b239866b668/w/ab1c5f2e60ecc0f22d346772/e/b8a9a500995d657088a1bb8b
rat rig vs voron?
Voron parts in Fire Engine Red?
Nope, good guess though. Vcore 3 abs+.
Those unsupported lead screw tops are really bothering me...
how much?
Is this good for a first 3d printer? If not, what is?
Intention to inform:
Would the builder understand what he is or has to do that he can print with such a diy kit printer?
The builder has to do anything so he can start to print. Is that easy?
When he knows what to do yes.
When not he has to learn anything about the printer and the usage.
A better alternative?
Go for a finished printer, used slitghly and not to expensive.
Ebay is a source.
Buy - plug in - slice - print.
A shorted MOSFET suggests you zapped it with static electricity.
Ratrig vs Voron 2.4??
I suggest you subscribe 😉
go for whatever is cooler to you
@@user-yk1cw8im4h Vector 3D asked to guess what he’s making. My guess is the Voron 2.4 being as most people print the parts in red. I’m not torn. My choice would be the Voron
@@tejae504 Those were V-Core 3 parts in red :)
Did you use a closed chamber to print those ABS pieces?
Nice sweet holly mamma!!!
Why do 3D printer manufacturers supply a inferior power supplies? The power supplies should be about 500 watts & have linear rails. I believe a 3D printer should be pre-assembled & factory tested. The top of the Z axis should have a top bushing if not using ball screws. I will not buy a 3D printer without servo motors, ball screws, & upper supper supports for the top of the Z axis ball screw. Also you should not have to figure out what to change in the firmware & slicer software..
I'm one of those people who don't want 3d printed parts on their 3d printer. It has to be all metal.
Not anymore I guess. Prusa XL is out
They announced it. It's not gonna be out for at least 9 months, it won't be 2021 at that point, it's not a kit, and nobody has any idea if it's even any good. Apart from that, you're spot on.
@@Vector3DP you're right. I am wrong. Have a nice day
25:23 Joker ))
Great and honest review, thanks! And now, Klipper that Duet, thank me later ;)
Doscord invite is read only to community :(
There is validation for the discord group to fight against bots but everyone that's human is free to join and discuss.
@@Vector3DP Hmm. I feel human but somebody thinks I'm a bot. I've been trying to figure out what I'm supposed to do but I do not see it. How do I prove I'm not a bot?
i tried leaving and coming back. think the invite is no good. oh well they lost me.
They completely fail when it comes to their firmware support. They cold easily provide fully configured files for the default versions of thier product and just haven't bothered.
What?
I feel like you bought a quality kit and went for the worst, most outdated hotend solution on the market. With a Mosquito Magnum or equivalent you'd have better results at speed which is the reason you spend huge money on a printer of this type. Speed and reliability while maintaining quality. That's an oversight for sure.
Not my decision, this is the ratrig suggested/Default configuration.
@@Vector3DP Unfortunately, yes. Many of us want this to change, but it's an uphill battle for so many reasons that are not entirely in Rat Rigs hands. I can't recommend the default configuration at this point. Fortunately, the configurable option allows you to run whatever you want. All configurable options (and then some) with the exception of the Duet boards are supported in V-CoreOS out of the box.