Quick tip to fix your bubble problem, you can add a coat or 2 of polyurethane before you add the epoxy and the poly will seep down into the pores sealing them up and it can be sanded to a smooth finish if you want before adding the epoxy. BTW those countertops look amazing and you have definitely got something to be proud of there! Keep up the good work!
I wonder if anyone has done a similar project and used seal coat shellac? Seems a few coats of that might help, maybe? You See, I have a similar project coming up with 100 year old white oak, but I won’t be using epoxy. Any suggestions for finish. It is a big kitchen table. Any comments on OsmoCoat?
@@MJ-nb1qn using a nice polyurethane base to seal it then adding a 50/50 mix of boiled lin seed oil and bees wax you can polish it to a nice finish that's food safe, fairly durable and cheaper than epoxy.
I would have never used such a dark stain. But i was pleasantly surprised with the finish. Looks awesome. Also it makes perfect sense because your walls are a lighter color , and the contrast is beautiful. Plus , momma bear is happy and thats all that matters.
I completely agree with the dark stain. I think it was the wrong choice. I have always loved White Oak because you actually do not need to stain it at all. When the top coats go on, the White Oak takes on a beautiful honey color and is so much easier to maintain. Not all woods will do that. Red Oak, for example, looks harsh and brassy without some stain. Just my two pennies.
The “pot holes” are just conversation pieces, I have a great deal of admiration for anyone that can tackle such a large project with the most basic shop tools. Awesome job Sir. Congratulations and remember, you simply do not need a MASTER workshop to turn out MASTER work. Again, very impressed.
Don't feel bad. My epoxy countertops did the same thing. I struggled with it for several weeks and then changed brands of epoxy. That did the trick. Good job meeting that deadline!
Thanks for sharing such a great, complex project! I think it turned out well, maybe not to your expectations, but I think character was born, and a job well done sir! Again, thanks for sharing!
I am with you. I understand after seeing the Pine paneling. I wouldn't have had the heart to stain it that dark. You have to admire the beautiful kitchen.
Those imperfections are yours and only yours you only know where they are, keep them a secret other people will see only what you tell them. It's perfect for the average person most likely will see something in question and tell themselves, "how artistic." I think it's beautiful nice to see how dedicated to the project you are, that must have felt amazing once you all set it in and finished off the sink. Excellent!! Don't be so hard on yourself, think of the Brillant food that's going to be made there for your family and friends all the best Cheers!! and just enjoy!
Mate !! That's what you call, "But, I made this" if someone points it out. Not some factory made slab that was brought from a retail shop. Stand up and have pride in what your done. A awesome timber-gain top will always command respect.
You are not only a carpenter !! You are a wood doctor and a professor of carpentry. I created a very, very beautiful masterpiece. I believe that a thousand professionals are unable to implement it with this beauty. Greetings to you from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
That counter is gorgeous, good job. I think only some people will get this comment, but my hobby is wood, I love raw materials, and I love stain!- it brings me back to my childhood and fond memories of my dad and I’m 52. Years ago you made your counter top Out of butcher block which was expensive back in 197@/1980”s, my favorite is birch, walnut, brazallian walnut and any hard wood I can sand and stain
Nice 👍. To eliminate those bubbles, either seal it with Varnish or a thin coat of epoxy. Had this happen to me. Now that I seal the timber on both sides I've had no problems. All part of the learning process. Cheers from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 👍 😁
Mack you are dead nuts on. Two passes with a grain filler, sanding in between, and a static temp (no applied heat) for a day before the pour would eliminate any chance of gassing. The end product was amazing.
I've built a few small boats, and learned that there is a way to deal with the bubbles, which are caused by off-gassing. Here's what works really well: bring your shop up to temperature, and then let the temp begin to fall. As the temp falls, the wood will reverse its off-gassing, and now is the time to apply the epoxy, as the wood will suck it in rather that push it out, eliminating the bubbles. Or, lightly sand between coats and roll the second coat on with a epoxy roller from a boat supply store, such as West Marine. This works for small boats and the finish comes out very nice and smooth.
like to see it after 1 year. Epoxy is soft and you can see every scratch easily. Anyway, I admire what you have done and the big efforts spent on this countertop.
yep sealing will help reduce bubbles and a small torch can rid bubbles better than the heat gun ( it's not quite hot enough ) GORGEOUS COUNTERTOP ... and i love it when your wife sees it in place ! that's the best feeling !!
Awesome fine job! Just a FYI - - a coat or two of sand and sealer before the epoxy would have probably made your counter top turn out like you wanted. Me and my podnuh own a TimberKing 1600 and do all sorts of projects incl building his new home currently - on the Bayou. You did good and thanks a million for sharing!!
I'm glad to see you wearing your eye protection. So many people I work with and have worked with in the past don't wear them. Rather silly if you ask me. I've seen to many videos in shop class back in the day to know better.
Thank you for sharing the blemishes as well as the beauty. I know what you're feeling very well when a project doesn't go your way. You should be really proud of all you've accomplished!
The most important thing is that your number one client loved it, so congratulations! Here's a few constructive comments to help with your future projects: 1. Spend time straightening the edges of the boards so they'll mate together better. 2. Get yourself some heavier clamps, as it's very important that the edges are firmly held together during the glue-up. 3. To reduce the possibility of warpage, finish the underside of your countertop with at least one coat of the same finish you're using for the top face. 4. To get a better finish, after your first coat of epoxy has set, sand it down (P80), then fill any voids (usually caused by bubbles) with epoxy, then sand out all imperfections with P120 grit sandpaper. You'll have to lay down another coat of epoxy to deal with any remaining problems, after which - you guessed it - you should sand again with a finer grit (P220) so that you don't sand through the epoxy. Once the epoxy has fully cured, give it another, fine grit sanding (P220) then top it off with a high quality varnish. Nice bandsaw mill!
Better clamps are indeed in order. squeeze type are just not going to give you the pressure you need. A screw type clamp will be far more dependable and won't skip or back out if the resistance is too great. I agree with Marty too on the biscuits or dowels. Unless the wood was kiln dried, it is going to shrink some for a while. Overall though, that is a mighty fine looking counter and you ought to be proud of the job well done.
Isn't that the truth happy wife happy life I pissed mine off after 30 years and she left me over a big house that she no longer wanted happy wifey happy life e
Enjoyed the video thank you. The comments are a valuable asset for me. I learn from both the positive and negative comments. You did a super job. Again thank you
if you want to achieve a professional looking flat finish on porous woods, you must fill the grain before finishing. there are two methods. first you can fill the grain with the finish you are using. this is not a very practical approach when finishing with epoxy as it involves sanding back to bare wood between coats of finish until the grain is filled. this is very time consuming method if you are not using something like a precat lacquer that is sanding dry in 15 minutes and sands very easily. forget sanding back epoxy, not an option. the second method, and the one that would work in an epoxy application is to fill with a grain filler before staining. on something large like this, i would use a hardwood flooring grain filler like bona that flows very easily. it trowels much like the way you applied the epoxy. let it dry, and sand back to bare wood. then stain and finish. as far as the cupping of your top. bracing is not going to be strong enough unless it is steel. there are a few ways of preventing this, and one way of dealing with it. obviously to prevent something like this the wood should be properly dried to something between 8 and 12 percent. and even in that case, with good dry lumber, you should alternate the end grain orientation from board to board. so if you look at your slab at 11:30 and you will see from left to right the first 3 boards share the same orientation, while the last 2 share the opposite. now sometimes this can cause issue and sometimes its a nonissue. personally, i dont worry so much about my board orientation as i am choosing faces for their character/aesthetic, but it can be an issue with thick tops. most common issue for cupping tops is not finishing both sides of the slab. that thick coat of epoxy puts a lot of tensile stress on the top surface. the bottom should be finished in the same way to equalize that force and prevent deformation. a good method of mitigating a cupped top is to make a series of kerf cuts on the underside of the top, along the grain, the entire length of the top. google kerfkore plywood images and you will see what i mean. make the cuts about 3/4 the depth of the top and make them about 1/2 apart. you can do this with a circular saw and a straight board, just make sure that the cuts remain parallel to the edges of the top as well as each other. this will relieve enough material allowing you to flatten the slab with bracing or simply by screwing it to the cabinets, or sometimes allowing it to flatten out under its own weight. only problem is you would have to remove the top, and reinstall.
Sure this is some fine wood to be just wasted.. personally I try to waste zero wood as much as I can, always keeping in mind that this was a tree (or trees) that got cut down so I can do my thing
The segue from the narrower boards falling off each end of the table to your baby playing with the tape measure had me busting my sides. That was perfect.
pre-seal the wood with a thin layer of the same epoxy and a sponge brush on porous materials like wood. Then pour the epoxy on the next day when dry. It helps with preventing large air bubbles with end results.
Regardless that your wife likes it, that could change when your hard work starts to come undone. Yes, you used Tite Bond, but in just a few years' time you'll have small voids between the boards you've laminated together because they are going to continue drying out. Regardless of Thanksgiving, I would have taken at least another week to finish this project. Biscuit joints, even simple dowels would have prevented or slowed the eventual separations you will see. I also agree entirely with other commenters who said you should have put at least a thin coat of epoxy on the underside. As for the top, two ultra-thick coats a day apart is begging for disaster. A half dozen thin coats would have given you a much more beautiful finish. Now before you think I'm a total curmudgeon, I must thank you for your honesty and for sharing this.
Gussy, regardless of-the stupid response you are on the money. When the timber does react to the conditions they are going to be very disappointed and pissed off as it won’t be able to be repaired.
I'm glad someone else has mentioned those points. Hopefully they will learn from this and the next table will be able to last longer when properly done.
My points are completely valid. Thousands of experienced woodworkers, young or old, would unquestionably agree. I suspect that with such a vitriolic defence, DeWitt is actually the video's creator.
I do epoxy all the time on river tables and some countertops.. I usually do three really thin seal coats of epoxy and then I a fload coat.. rule of thumb is 1oz of epoxy per square foot on seal coats and 3 oz per square foot on fload coats.. I usually add a little extra on the fload coat to make sure it doesn't have thin spots.. but a light sanding between seal coats and it normally seals.. if not I keep doing seal.coats until it seals.. really expensive but looks great when it lays out like glass..
I either use stone coat countertops epoxy or if I'm trying to save money I've tried almost all the different brands and promarine on Amazon is the best less expensive epoxy ive ever found.. but if I'm doing river tables and need a deep pour casting epoxy I always buy stonecoats deep casting epoxy..
Stone Coat Epoxy recommends two coats at 1oz per sq ft sanding between then a thicker flood coat at 3 oz per sq ft to get a gloss finish. Love the oak!
I learned early on, if I'm laying a clear coat resin on to any type of bare wood, always spray a seal coat first. Never had trouble with bubbles since.
go over to Next Level Carpentry and build a set of his Journyman's Sawhorses. At the end of the vid he stress tests 1 pair, and they stop adding weight at 15,000 #'s (yes fifteen thousand pounds) .. you only need 6 2x4's and some select constructions screws, they stack and they are easy to cary.
I epoxied my reclaimed wormy chestnut dinning room table at 90 inches long and 48 inches wide by 3 inch thick. I had the same issue with the pot marks. In my case the epoxy wold drain into the worm holes. However it turned out amazing. Love your counter tops. Until you do this in my case a week to do the prep. Great video and thanks for sharing.
Timemachine Eddie When the alert for incoming nukes happens, under your table most definitely sounds like the place to be. That sucker sounds stout and awesome.
I just finished posting the tip below when you started talking about tops warping or cupping! Follow my tip and they won’t warp. Also as a general rule of thumb whatever you finish the top with you have to finish the bottom also otherwise the finish will pull the wood at one side only and this also creates problems cupping. Since you epoxied you should put a heavy finish on bottom not necessarily epoxy to balance the top. I woul at least put a couple good heavy Coates of sealer if epoxy is not feasible or would be over budget.
I don't care what anyone else says, I think it turned out pretty good. The top can be sanded and buffed and underside sealed. Your kitchen looks great.
I used the west system now, I have used others but had the best luck with the west system. Only draw back it’s sooooooo expensive. Here in New Jersey in the states one day it could be 60 degrees F with 40 percent humidity and next day it could be 80F with 100 percent humidity. So the west system is very forgiving with that type of weather.I always put poly as finishing coat good luck
Beautiful job! And, you should be proud that you didn't go all out "OCD" on the pock marks. They can be fixed later on. Hope your holidays are fantastic!
After staining, it’s always best to seal porous timber with a fine coating of bees wax/linseed oil mix before applying epoxy coat, to prevent air bubbles.
When I epoxied my Southern Yellow Pine countertops, I had to brush an epoxy prime coat on all sides of the countertop. I poured the final coat within two hours as required. All bubbles came out with a torch. Very happy with the results. I have a suggestion for your countertop, put lots of stuff on it like cutting boards, canisters, a breadbox, etc. Before you know it you will not see any imperfections. Enjoy
I very much enjoyed your video! Even tho it’s not 💯 % how you wanted it it’s a great guide to people like me. And your baby and family was definitely a nice touch! Since I have a 9 month old! LoL
Hey I know this was a long time ago now, but when you cut out the piece for the sink I thought, "Man he should save that piece and make a matching cutting board with it!! :)
Tip. When gluing up strips like that what you want to do is look at all the ends at one end and look at the end grain. You want the cup on each piece to be opposite to the one next to it. One piece you want the grain cupping down and the next cupping up. This will keep the end product flat and the whole piece won’t cup.
I've got 3 boxes of Hickory pre finished flooring I've been wanting to make new counter tops with. Seeing your counter top and the wood you have used in your kitchen is really nice!!!!
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Quick tip to fix your bubble problem, you can add a coat or 2 of polyurethane before you add the epoxy and the poly will seep down into the pores sealing them up and it can be sanded to a smooth finish if you want before adding the epoxy.
BTW those countertops look amazing and you have definitely got something to be proud of there! Keep up the good work!
I think if using the poly you need to add a day of drying time.
@@onedrop7967 depending on the polyurethane, yes. Some quick drying urethane can be done in about 2-3 hours.
I wonder if anyone has done a similar project and used seal coat shellac? Seems a few coats of that might help, maybe? You See, I have a similar project coming up with 100 year old white oak, but I won’t be using epoxy. Any suggestions for finish. It is a big kitchen table. Any comments on OsmoCoat?
@@MJ-nb1qn using a nice polyurethane base to seal it then adding a 50/50 mix of boiled lin seed oil and bees wax you can polish it to a nice finish that's food safe, fairly durable and cheaper than epoxy.
i like using shellac for sealing.
I would have never used such a dark stain. But i was pleasantly surprised with the finish. Looks awesome. Also it makes perfect sense because your walls are a lighter color , and the contrast is beautiful. Plus , momma bear is happy and thats all that matters.
I completely agree with the dark stain. I think it was the wrong choice. I have always loved White Oak because you actually do not need to stain it at all. When the top coats go on, the White Oak takes on a beautiful honey color and is so much easier to maintain. Not all woods will do that. Red Oak, for example, looks harsh and brassy without some stain. Just my two pennies.
The “pot holes” are just conversation pieces, I have a great deal of admiration for anyone that can tackle such a large project with the most basic shop tools. Awesome job Sir. Congratulations and remember, you simply do not need a MASTER workshop to turn out MASTER work. Again, very impressed.
@Doctor Buga lol
That baby looks so happy climbing all over daddy's table.good job n nice counter top.really looks great.happy wife happy life.love that deep sink.
Don't feel bad. My epoxy countertops did the same thing. I struggled with it for several weeks and then changed brands of epoxy. That did the trick. Good job meeting that deadline!
Great you show the real life. Not all things go perfect. Thanks for sharing. It looks wonderful.
Thanks for sharing such a great, complex project! I think it turned out well, maybe not to your expectations, but I think character was born, and a job well done sir! Again, thanks for sharing!
How blessed you are to have a nice shop and cool tools. 🙏 Thanks for sharing your video! 👍
AHHHHH!! I cried a little when that dark stain went onto that beautiful white oak!
I am with you. I understand after seeing the Pine paneling. I wouldn't have had the heart to stain it that dark. You have to admire the beautiful kitchen.
Looks great! You done the most important thing. You made momma happy
Those imperfections are yours and only yours you only know where they are, keep them a secret other people will see only what you tell them. It's perfect for the average person most likely will see something in question and tell themselves, "how artistic." I think it's beautiful nice to see how dedicated to the project you are, that must have felt amazing once you all set it in and finished off the sink. Excellent!! Don't be so hard on yourself, think of the Brillant food that's going to be made there for your family and friends all the best Cheers!! and just enjoy!
NOW, that's measuring twice and cutting once...very nicely done. bravo on the video...thumbs UP.
Mate !! That's what you call, "But, I made this" if someone points it out. Not some factory made slab that was brought from a retail shop. Stand up and have pride in what your done. A awesome timber-gain top will always command respect.
You are not only a carpenter !! You are a wood doctor and a professor of carpentry. I created a very, very beautiful masterpiece. I believe that a thousand professionals are unable to implement it with this beauty. Greetings to you from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
Good job I love your work I’m learning and having a good time watching your vids. Keep them coming 👍 and God Bless you and your family
That counter is gorgeous, good job. I think only some people will get this comment, but my hobby is wood, I love raw materials, and I love stain!- it brings me back to my childhood and fond memories of my dad and I’m 52. Years ago you made your counter top Out of butcher block which was expensive back in 197@/1980”s, my favorite is birch, walnut, brazallian walnut and any hard wood I can sand and stain
Nice 👍. To eliminate those bubbles, either seal it with Varnish or a thin coat of epoxy. Had this happen to me. Now that I seal the timber on both sides I've had no problems. All part of the learning process. Cheers from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 👍 😁
Live and learn! Appreciate the tips!
Yep. Needed a seal coat first.
Glenn Cobern same here i seal both sides from encountering the same and now no more problems
Yayyyy Tasmania! I was there in 1986 with the US NAVY. Hobart.
Would a grain filler followed by shellac effectively seal oak,? Can shellac be used under epoxy?
The counter top really looks great. I love wood projects that lets the natural grain show through, even if stain is used.
A grain filler my help with those pock marks.Especially with oak.
Have a great night and Thank you for making this video
Mack you are dead nuts on. Two passes with a grain filler, sanding in between, and a static temp (no applied heat) for a day before the pour would eliminate any chance of gassing. The end product was amazing.
Thank you for not playing music in your video. The top looks great!
Nice to watch a project without background music
Bill Gooch I love the fact that he doesn’t use background music. It’s more enjoyable to hear the wood working sounds
I have to say I enjoy watching all of your videos.
I've built a few small boats, and learned that there is a way to deal with the bubbles, which are caused by off-gassing. Here's what works really well: bring your shop up to temperature, and then let the temp begin to fall. As the temp falls, the wood will reverse its off-gassing, and now is the time to apply the epoxy, as the wood will suck it in rather that push it out, eliminating the bubbles. Or, lightly sand between coats and roll the second coat on with a epoxy roller from a boat supply store, such as West Marine. This works for small boats and the finish comes out very nice and smooth.
Nice to see you have your little helper in the shop
like to see it after 1 year. Epoxy is soft and you can see every scratch easily. Anyway, I admire what you have done and the big efforts spent on this countertop.
Absolutely beautiful.
Organic materials always come with nuances that add character.
It beats plastic any day of the week and twice on Sunday.
The only thing that matters is she likes it. And yea it looks awesome good job
yep sealing will help reduce bubbles and a small torch can rid bubbles better than the heat gun ( it's not quite hot enough ) GORGEOUS COUNTERTOP ... and i love it when your wife sees it in place ! that's the best feeling !!
Man the best part of the video was when you and your dad mounted the countertop..
Nice work!!
As someone who works with wood as a hobby and never done anything this size before, this countertop came out amazing! Great job!
Awesome fine job! Just a FYI - - a coat or two of sand and sealer before the epoxy would have probably made your counter top turn out like you wanted. Me and my podnuh own a TimberKing 1600 and do all sorts of projects incl building his new home currently - on the Bayou. You did good and thanks a million for sharing!!
I'm glad to see you wearing your eye protection. So many people I work with and have worked with in the past don't wear them. Rather silly if you ask me. I've seen to many videos in shop class back in the day to know better.
Looks really nice. It passed the inspector so be happy. lol
Yep, that's all that matters!
I thought it would be something it was 1:45 meaning gray aged surface.
Thank you for sharing the blemishes as well as the beauty. I know what you're feeling very well when a project doesn't go your way. You should be really proud of all you've accomplished!
What a great job! A whole family loves that and that is what you live for.
Nice Job!! Looks awesome. I think the bubbles add to its character!!
The most important thing is that your number one client loved it, so congratulations!
Here's a few constructive comments to help with your future projects:
1. Spend time straightening the edges of the boards so they'll mate together better.
2. Get yourself some heavier clamps, as it's very important that the edges are firmly held together during the glue-up.
3. To reduce the possibility of warpage, finish the underside of your countertop with at least one coat of the same finish you're using for the top face.
4. To get a better finish, after your first coat of epoxy has set, sand it down (P80), then fill any voids (usually caused by bubbles) with epoxy, then sand out all imperfections with P120 grit sandpaper. You'll have to lay down another coat of epoxy to deal with any remaining problems, after which - you guessed it - you should sand again with a finer grit (P220) so that you don't sand through the epoxy. Once the epoxy has fully cured, give it another, fine grit sanding (P220) then top it off with a high quality varnish.
Nice bandsaw mill!
Better clamps are indeed in order. squeeze type are just not going to give you the pressure you need. A screw type clamp will be far more dependable and won't skip or back out if the resistance is too great. I agree with Marty too on the biscuits or dowels. Unless the wood was kiln dried, it is going to shrink some for a while. Overall though, that is a mighty fine looking counter and you ought to be proud of the job well done.
Nice job and you have a beautiful family.
Especially the wonderful and beautiful child.
When mama's happy everyone's happy. Nice job
Isn't that the truth happy wife happy life I pissed mine off after 30 years and she left me over a big house that she no longer wanted happy wifey happy life e
Tks for sharing your family, wonderful video!!!
Beautiful! As they say, if you can't tell from a galloping horse you're good!
Enjoyed the video thank you. The comments are a valuable asset for me. I learn from both the positive and negative comments. You did a super job. Again thank you
if you want to achieve a professional looking flat finish on porous woods, you must fill the grain before finishing. there are two methods. first you can fill the grain with the finish you are using. this is not a very practical approach when finishing with epoxy as it involves sanding back to bare wood between coats of finish until the grain is filled. this is very time consuming method if you are not using something like a precat lacquer that is sanding dry in 15 minutes and sands very easily. forget sanding back epoxy, not an option. the second method, and the one that would work in an epoxy application is to fill with a grain filler before staining. on something large like this, i would use a hardwood flooring grain filler like bona that flows very easily. it trowels much like the way you applied the epoxy. let it dry, and sand back to bare wood. then stain and finish.
as far as the cupping of your top. bracing is not going to be strong enough unless it is steel. there are a few ways of preventing this, and one way of dealing with it. obviously to prevent something like this the wood should be properly dried to something between 8 and 12 percent. and even in that case, with good dry lumber, you should alternate the end grain orientation from board to board. so if you look at your slab at 11:30 and you will see from left to right the first 3 boards share the same orientation, while the last 2 share the opposite. now sometimes this can cause issue and sometimes its a nonissue. personally, i dont worry so much about my board orientation as i am choosing faces for their character/aesthetic, but it can be an issue with thick tops. most common issue for cupping tops is not finishing both sides of the slab. that thick coat of epoxy puts a lot of tensile stress on the top surface. the bottom should be finished in the same way to equalize that force and prevent deformation.
a good method of mitigating a cupped top is to make a series of kerf cuts on the underside of the top, along the grain, the entire length of the top. google kerfkore plywood images and you will see what i mean. make the cuts about 3/4 the depth of the top and make them about 1/2 apart. you can do this with a circular saw and a straight board, just make sure that the cuts remain parallel to the edges of the top as well as each other. this will relieve enough material allowing you to flatten the slab with bracing or simply by screwing it to the cabinets, or sometimes allowing it to flatten out under its own weight. only problem is you would have to remove the top, and reinstall.
Sean Wimpfheimer That is loads of good information. Thanks for taking the time to type it all!
Great information
Lots of people like the wood finished with the porous and wormy finishes left exposed . Nothing nicer than wormy butternut !
My guess is you have a ton of woodworking experience, wow! Thanks for sharing!!!!
Can I hire you?
Fall Line Ridge the counter top turned out soo pretty I just love it . Thanks for the video be blessed with love care and grace.
That cutout would make a nice matching cutting board. Merry Christmas!
Sure this is some fine wood to be just wasted.. personally I try to waste zero wood as much as I can, always keeping in mind that this was a tree (or trees) that got cut down so I can do my thing
Man don't be hard on yourself it's beautiful! Plus mama likes it. That's a mighty cute little fellow you have there.
HAPPY NEW YEAR and may GOD bless all your endeavors
The segue from the narrower boards falling off each end of the table to your baby playing with the tape measure had me busting my sides. That was perfect.
Absolutely stunning, happy wife happy life. Happy Thanksgiving 🦃🍽🍁 to you and your family and friends take care my friend god bless
The counter top looks great but I like the kid best.
Thanks, Donald!
Great job ,looks like you are one good carpenter, would like to see more of your projects,
pre-seal the wood with a thin layer of the same epoxy and a sponge brush on porous materials like wood. Then pour the epoxy on the next day when dry. It helps with preventing large air bubbles with end results.
Sir, great job! It’s beautiful and you did it your self and your family loves it.
Awesome job! Happy Thanksgiving to your family from mine!!
Thank you!
It turned out beautiful. I know your wife is happy with that!!!
Regardless that your wife likes it, that could change when your hard work starts to come undone. Yes, you used Tite Bond, but in just a few years' time you'll have small voids between the boards you've laminated together because they are going to continue drying out. Regardless of Thanksgiving, I would have taken at least another week to finish this project. Biscuit joints, even simple dowels would have prevented or slowed the eventual separations you will see. I also agree entirely with other commenters who said you should have put at least a thin coat of epoxy on the underside. As for the top, two ultra-thick coats a day apart is begging for disaster. A half dozen thin coats would have given you a much more beautiful finish. Now before you think I'm a total curmudgeon, I must thank you for your honesty and for sharing this.
You are a total butthead. You sound as if you're the perfect /person alive. Thank you for your insight oh great one, troll
Gussy, regardless of-the stupid response you are on the money. When the timber does react to the conditions they are going to be very disappointed and pissed off as it won’t be able to be repaired.
@@dm2781632 another "know it all" He's not claiming to be the world's best wood worker. Go troll on the kids channel, you old goat
I'm glad someone else has mentioned those points. Hopefully they will learn from this and the next table will be able to last longer when properly done.
My points are completely valid. Thousands of experienced woodworkers, young or old, would unquestionably agree. I suspect that with such a vitriolic defence, DeWitt is actually the video's creator.
Love the grain on that oak, looks beautiful with the white cabinets, great job 👍👍
I do epoxy all the time on river tables and some countertops.. I usually do three really thin seal coats of epoxy and then I a fload coat.. rule of thumb is 1oz of epoxy per square foot on seal coats and 3 oz per square foot on fload coats.. I usually add a little extra on the fload coat to make sure it doesn't have thin spots.. but a light sanding between seal coats and it normally seals.. if not I keep doing seal.coats until it seals.. really expensive but looks great when it lays out like glass..
Where do you purchase the Epoxy you use?
Great tips! Thank you!
I either use stone coat countertops epoxy or if I'm trying to save money I've tried almost all the different brands and promarine on Amazon is the best less expensive epoxy ive ever found.. but if I'm doing river tables and need a deep pour casting epoxy I always buy stonecoats deep casting epoxy..
Very nice looking countertop. In fact the whole kitchen looks terrific, it has a look of inviting warmth. Very nice.
Brush on the first coat of epoxy. Let it completely dry and then pour and no more porous bubbles. 444
I was thinking the same thing, or use a light coat of urethane Poly to seal it first.
Totally agree. Glad do see and learn on how not to ruin my own work. I know a lady who is a bit more demanding.
Nice job man! I think this is the beauty of woodworking, not only to build gorgeous stuff but also to make customers hearts happy 💪😊
My husband wanted to do jobs like this. Although he was talented man, he passed away from agent orange complications from Viet Nam.
Great work!
OH BOY ....WHAT A GREAT JOB.....YOU DESERVE MORE THAN THOUSAND LIKES...
At 6:40 somebody sure looks like his daddy. One happy little man. Happy Thanksgiving.
That looks really good. Nice work 👍 lovely family too
Awesome craftsmanship. Recommend thinner coats of epoxy resin when coating. May take longer but less pot marks. I learned the hard way too.
Nice work! I think the little divots add character. Your kitchen looks great!
Stone Coat Epoxy recommends two coats at 1oz per sq ft sanding between then a thicker flood coat at 3 oz per sq ft to get a gloss finish. Love the oak!
Your hard work and precise measures produced a fine countertop. Your family will enjoy many Happy Thanksgivings using that countertop.
I learned early on, if I'm laying a clear coat resin on to any type of bare wood, always spray a seal coat first. Never had trouble with bubbles since.
Grandpa's not proud is he? Good looking kiddo and countertop!👍🥰
brush on a seal coat of epoxy let it dry halfway the do second pour - also do all sides so it does not warp.
Nice piece of woodworking. The finish is high gloss, beautiful.
I like it but you definitely need some sturdier saw horses.
go over to Next Level Carpentry and build a set of his Journyman's Sawhorses. At the end of the vid he stress tests 1 pair, and they stop adding weight at 15,000 #'s (yes fifteen thousand pounds) .. you only need 6 2x4's and some select constructions screws, they stack and they are easy to cary.
Working with full dimension lumber of that length is a real pain, but incredibly rewarding. Amazing work man
I epoxied my reclaimed wormy chestnut dinning room table at 90 inches long and 48 inches wide by 3 inch thick. I had the same issue with the pot marks. In my case the epoxy wold drain into the worm holes. However it turned out amazing. Love your counter tops. Until you do this in my case a week to do the prep. Great video and thanks for sharing.
Timemachine Eddie When the alert for incoming nukes happens, under your table most definitely sounds like the place to be. That sucker sounds stout and awesome.
Handsome little man! Congrats! Brilliant job.
Beautiful project. I would consider using splines in the board edges despite the strength of modern glue.
thank you for not playing music. Love the wood shop sounds. That's music to my ears!
The piece you cut out for the sink would make a perfect matching cutting board.
Fisher Man 37 That’s what i was about to say! Please tell me he didn’t throw it away or burn it.
Fantastic job! Lovely wood. Rustic looking too.
I just finished posting the tip below when you started talking about tops warping or cupping! Follow my tip and they won’t warp. Also as a general rule of thumb whatever you finish the top with you have to finish the bottom also otherwise the finish will pull the wood at one side only and this also creates problems cupping. Since you epoxied you should put a heavy finish on bottom not necessarily epoxy to balance the top. I woul at least put a couple good heavy Coates of sealer if epoxy is not feasible or would be over budget.
turned out beautiful! And your son is adorable!!!
this is what I want to do build everything my self. I'm going to run a test on m y Bathroom first since its all getting redone. Man love this look
I don't care what anyone else says, I think it turned out pretty good. The top can be sanded and buffed and underside sealed. Your kitchen looks great.
Boy, I would love a detailed video on the use of epoxy. I still use urethane and lacquer. Hello from Thailand
Frank Cherry check out laggari epoxies they have detailed applications
I used the west system now, I have used others but had the best luck with the west system. Only draw back it’s sooooooo expensive. Here in New Jersey in the states one day it could be 60 degrees F with 40 percent humidity and next day it could be 80F with 100 percent humidity. So the west system is very forgiving with that type of weather.I always put poly as finishing coat good luck
great job, dude. Well Done.
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Beautiful job! And, you should be proud that you didn't go all out "OCD" on the pock marks. They can be fixed later on. Hope your holidays are fantastic!
LAS MARCAS DE VIRUELA YA NO TIENEN ARREGLO, LA ÚNICA ES LIJAR A FONDO Y EMPEZAR TODO DE VUELTA..
What a counter top, well done, keep on doing more good wood work
After staining, it’s always best to seal porous timber with a fine coating of bees wax/linseed oil mix before applying epoxy coat, to prevent air bubbles.
Great job, beautiful family and really like the kitchen 🥰
When I epoxied my Southern Yellow Pine countertops, I had to brush an epoxy prime coat on all sides of the countertop. I poured the final coat within two hours as required. All bubbles came out with a torch. Very happy with the results. I have a suggestion for your countertop, put lots of stuff on it like cutting boards, canisters, a breadbox, etc. Before you know it you will not see any imperfections. Enjoy
I very much enjoyed your video! Even tho it’s not 💯 % how you wanted it it’s a great guide to people like me. And your baby and family was definitely a nice touch! Since I have a 9 month old! LoL
Baby stunt actor --- "I'll edit that out..." Great job mate :) thumbs up !!
He constructed a quite effective baby trap. Fell right in.
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props to dad for not editing out that close one! real dad rite there
Also, do a very thin precoat to fill in/seal the wood for thicker pour
Awesome build!
Looks really good!
Thank you for sharing 👍
Hey I know this was a long time ago now, but when you cut out the piece for the sink I thought, "Man he should save that piece and make a matching cutting board with it!! :)
Amazing finish. Well done young man.
Tip. When gluing up strips like that what you want to do is look at all the ends at one end and look at the end grain. You want the cup on each piece to be opposite to the one next to it. One piece you want the grain cupping down and the next cupping up. This will keep the end product flat and the whole piece won’t cup.
Good tip!
I've got 3 boxes of Hickory pre finished flooring I've been wanting to make new counter tops with.
Seeing your counter top and the wood you have used in your kitchen is really nice!!!!