Thank you for the video. I’m a beginner and although I can service a watch, repairs take a lot of knowledge and experience which I don’t have so this is great information, especially the part where you say to take your time. I’m quite eager to progress but every time I go too fast, bad things happen!
Thanks for a great insight, on issues. To me, that is what I like to see. When things work, everyone loves that, but it is the issues when people say "Oh no". That is one area your videos shine. You analyze things, find the problem and solve it. Thanks again.
Nice video, and thank you. I was looking to see how a staking set can be used to do this so that answers that question. I do know that have a Jeweling press that has a micrometer that can really help with this too as it has a micrometer that you can read before you remove the jewel so you know how far to set the jewel. Problem is, I don't have one of those, and just the staking set, so unless I win the lottery or come into some extra significant cash to buy one, I will have to use this method. One question for you though... do you always remove the jewel to clean them? I normally just peg mine out, inspect them, and then clean the base plate or bridge that the jewel is in and not mess with removing them. I would think the only time you would remove them is if one was broken. Thanks again for the video!
@@myhobbiesarenotcheap Okay, looking at your other videos, it looks like you work only on old pocket watches, so pre-shock systems so that makes sense for those jewels.
That is true if you lay it on its side. Ff you stand it up, it does not "give"near as much. I cut mine and use it as a stump. It has never caused a problem for me before and it keeps the regulator pins from being bent, so I feel comfortable using the pith wood. :). Thanks for watching!
This all begs the question of why the jewel setting were so tight in the first place. Have the settings become thicker from being crushed in the past? Are the holes that receive the fittings under-sized from being closed down by some previous workman? It seems like it's important to get to the root of the problem.
These are good thoughts! I didn't mention in the video that I saw a round tool mark on the underside of the balance bridge that I had never seen before... that led me to believe that the hole HAD been distorted..
Thank you for the video. I’m a beginner and although I can service a watch, repairs take a lot of knowledge and experience which I don’t have so this is great information, especially the part where you say to take your time. I’m quite eager to progress but every time I go too fast, bad things happen!
So true! I learned going too fast means mistakes and often money lost!! I'm glad these videos are helpful!
Thanks for a great insight, on issues. To me, that is what I like to see. When things work, everyone loves that, but it is the issues when people say "Oh no". That is one area your videos shine. You analyze things, find the problem and solve it. Thanks again.
Yes sometime things happen when working on these small parts. Thanks!
This is probably exactly why I can't get my balance to kick in gear. Love the videos!
Glad you enjoy them! Thanks for watching!
Happy new year. Love the videos!
Thank you so much!! Happy New Year to you!!!
Great valuable video and very informative! Thank you for sharing!
I have exactly the same problem with a watch I'm working on and had just come to the sea conclusion - not yet tried to fix it.
Nice video, and thank you. I was looking to see how a staking set can be used to do this so that answers that question. I do know that have a Jeweling press that has a micrometer that can really help with this too as it has a micrometer that you can read before you remove the jewel so you know how far to set the jewel. Problem is, I don't have one of those, and just the staking set, so unless I win the lottery or come into some extra significant cash to buy one, I will have to use this method.
One question for you though... do you always remove the jewel to clean them? I normally just peg mine out, inspect them, and then clean the base plate or bridge that the jewel is in and not mess with removing them. I would think the only time you would remove them is if one was broken.
Thanks again for the video!
I always remove the cap jewels to separate, clean and oil them. For the other jewels, I do the same as you! 🙂
@@myhobbiesarenotcheap Okay, looking at your other videos, it looks like you work only on old pocket watches, so pre-shock systems so that makes sense for those jewels.
@@perrybucsdad You are correct! I only work on vintage pocket watches and use techniques that work for those. 🙂
A Horia tool would be what you need as well.
Pressing that jewel setting in on that soft peg wood reminds me of closing a suitcase on a bed, its hard if not impossible.
That is true if you lay it on its side. Ff you stand it up, it does not "give"near as much. I cut mine and use it as a stump. It has never caused a problem for me before and it keeps the regulator pins from being bent, so I feel comfortable using the pith wood. :). Thanks for watching!
No more videos in the channel'?
This all begs the question of why the jewel setting were so tight in the first place. Have the settings become thicker from being crushed in the past? Are the holes that receive the fittings under-sized from being closed down by some previous workman? It seems like it's important to get to the root of the problem.
These are good thoughts! I didn't mention in the video that I saw a round tool mark on the underside of the balance bridge that I had never seen before... that led me to believe that the hole HAD been distorted..
@user-wv1pj6wh4h That's a good possibility!