🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
How would you do the same vibe technique of the door frame wasn't plumb? So, both the wall is out of plumb and the door frame that the trim will attach to I'd not plumb either. Thank you.
Thanks Philip, I really appreciate that. I don't know what Is do without this technique. I used it a few times on this project th-cam.com/video/R1dKybdYyY8/w-d-xo.html
I have an easier way to scribe arcitrave to a wall. Mark the reveal you want on your jamb which in this instance is 5mm. Tack the outer edge of the arcitrave to to that line using a pin nailer or brad nails, you can use a clamp at the header and tack the middle and bottom with a nailer. Then take an off cut which is the same width as the arcitrave and scribe your pencil line down the one that's tacked to the jamb, cut to the line and you're good to go leaving you with that 5mm reveal. Make sure you cut the mitre on top before cutting the scribe line so you'll have that 45° cut
Accurate scribing certainly makes a big difference to the overall look of the job. Kitchen fitters have this off to a fine art and like yourself no fancy tool in sight. Thanks for sharing I learnt a lot from this and your most recent vid.
Wow you've said me a few quid - I was going to buy one of those doodah's off ebay for a fiver. No need to buy one anymore since a piece of wood will get the job done. Top man!
Thanks for that Charlie. Im a plasterer by trade but often have to do small amounts of joinery. This is a very useful technique to help me through my working day.
This is exactly what I needed to see....we live in "the house that Jack built" and that my husband and I keep fixing. we have a really funky corner near a linen closet that is not only not plumb but it's not the same depth from top to bottom. I created my own template to scribe the wall by popping a hole in a wooden paint stirrer for the point of a pencil...I'm hoping this works for me...I really think it will...thanks for this video...
Thank you Charlie, I have a feeling that i'll need all your videos just to keep up on my home. My house was built in 1920 with many additions (poorly done i'd say). This is our first house, lucky us!
Hi Kray, thanks for taking the time to comment. I was in a pretty similar situation with my first house - and it's taught me most of what I know, so sit back and enjoy the ride. My current house is just the same! It's the best and only way to learn! In the meantime, drop me a comment if you're got any DIY conundrums! Good luck!
Well done I am a retired linoleum layer I have been making patterns to cut sheet goods for 40+ years basically the way you scribed your molding using an18inch straight edge.
Brilliant Video I'm just about to do exactly what you showed A Door Achrcitrave! It's even on the same side of the door! How lucky was that! Many thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Nice video on explaining how to scribe architrave. Still alittle “gappy” but close enough for a DIYer. One thing us professional carpenters do is back cut (bevel the saw slightly) when cutting the line to ensure a nice tight fit against the wall. Much more accurate with a nice sharp hand saw. Also always cut your mitre before you start cutting the scribe as it’s a pain to cut afterwards. Nice job! :)
Another way is to cut an angle, but cut a little away from the line, so you can easily sand the remaining bit down to the line. The angled cut means you only have to sand a thin edge down, means a lot less sanding, but you can still get the fine accuracy that sanding affords.
Hi there, what do you find is the best method for cutting your scribe on a 2x2 upright when you’re cutting with the grain? I found it particularly awkward with a wavy wall. Thanks.
@@meldrew728 I always scribe thin pieces with a table saw, I just cut at 5 or 7° to create a bevel and get it as close to the line as possible, sounds hard but should get the hang of it on the 3rd piece if not leave a little more than the line and sand the rest. That's what the bevel is for so you can remove material fasters and it also leaves less gap between material
Your a good tutor. I've learned so much from you. The silicone scrapers ect my silicone skills have improved tremendous.. Love the scribeing . But you want to know the best part. To look at you i would of never had you down as a tradesman
Very helpful, framed something out and need to scribe some side panels - nice to see you do proper DIY tricks like the block and just using basic tools like a jigsaw
Thank you! That part about how to determine how much to cut off was brilliant! Just what I was looking for. Thanks again for sharing the info. Btw, you’ve got mad skills with a hand saw.
Hi there. Just to let you know, I've redone the paint brush cleaning video incorporating your great tip on recycling the white spirit, and will be posting it in a few minutes. Thought I'd let you know as your ears might start burning soon :)
Damn- why didn't I watch this video before fitting my new door!! I just spent over an hour measuring, marking, cutting and trimming to get to the same result!
Best method is to find the point where the wall projects the most and sit the architrave against it. At that point, measure how far the architrave projects past the frame. Fix the architrave top and bottom at this measurement so it’s parallel with the frame. It’s best to fix using oval nails where possible. Screws require more filling and run the risk of splitting out (spelching)when withdrawn if you’ve put them below surface , as the timber can expand back over the edge of the head of the screw. Cut the scribe block to the size of the margin and the architrave projection combined. Before marking with a pen, put masking tape down the edge of the architrave where it touches the wall. Masking tape makes the scribe line more visible and helps reduce spelching out when cutting along the scribe. I prefer to cut with a fine cut panel saw. If you use a jog saw, use a blade that cuts on the downstroke to reduce spelching out on the face of the architrave. Once you begin cutting, you should back cut. This means cutting off 90 degree along the scribe so that the front (visible) part of the scribe touches the wall first. This also means you don’t need to rely on decorators caulk to hide your sins.
Can you skip the step of finding the most protruding part of the wall.and just set it to an arbitrary parallel distance from frame. Then continue from there?
If door frame isn’t plumb, mark 8mm on the frame or whatever inset you do and fix the back edge of the arc to it, then get a block the same width of the architrave and run a pencil mark down it following the contours of the wall and jigsaw to the pencil line👍🏼
That's correct. I should have pointed that out. So if it's not vertical, you just need to make sure you have the architrave parallel with the front edge of the door casing when you scribe.
Hi Charlie , what did you find is the best method for cutting your scribe on the upright for the insane bookcase? I found it particularly awkward for a wavy wall with a 2x2 upright, cutting with the grain. Thanks.
You basically have to start with a piece of wood that's wider than it needs to be, somehow fix it in position with the inner piece parallel with the unit that you're fitting it to, and then do your scribing. I find my belt sander very important to fine tune sections the jigsaw hasn't quite cut accurately. Once you have a scribe that accurately follows the contours of the wall, you can turn your attention to the straight section and trim that back so that it sits flush with the inside of the bookcase, door frame etc. A set of swanky scribes are useful to have. I used them on the wardrobe build a few times. Saves having to cut a scribe block.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks, I understand the process. The problem came with following a wavy line on 2x2 cutting with the grain. A handsaw wasn’t flexible enough and a jigsaw blade not firm enough. The first result was to just have the high and low points right but nothing in between. I’m now considering cutting it roughly and buying a flap disc for a grinder to fine tune it.
Hi there Charlie, hope all is well. something slightly different on what you are showing here. Have you ever drilled in to a a ground floor made of concrete( a home) to say fix a plinth ? I may need to do it its just that one has to be careful not to hit the DPM. thanks in advance, ps I am talking about using tapcon screws (blue concrete screws u may know of) and around 30mm deep.
Cool tip, I'm assuming it only works accurately if the door jamb is perfectly plum as the arc was? Most older frames are usually bellied/bowed on at least one side. I'll definitely be playing with this one though
What you could do Danny is fix it in roughly the right position, scribe it to the wall, then when you've completed the scribe, push it into the wall and then scribe to the door frame. A bit of a pain but sometimes needs must!
Could you explain how to calculate feather edge boards needed over a certain span, do i divide the width of the board less the overlap into the length i want to cover, thought I'd ask as you explain well and i used this scribing method after watching this video and it worked great, i kmew how to scribe as to tracing the uneven surface to another but couldn't fathom how to get it in the right place without cutting the other edge to suit, Thanks
Hi John, thanks for the feedback! Yes, that is exactly how I'd do it. You should allow a minimum of 25mm to 30mm overlap. So for example if you have 150mm wide boards then each board will give a coverage of 125mm - or 8 boards per metre. There are various calculators available - such as this one goo.gl/7iot7n that even tells you how many counter rails, notch posts etc etc you need (assuming of course you're making a fence!). That reminds me, I have a section of fence in the garden to replace...!
Yes absolutely Cynthia, but it's going to be a little tricky to remove and might look a bit odd of you end up with a very thin base board in certain areas. Can you not mechanically fix (screw) the base board to the wall, which will pull it in around the uneven lumps in the wall?
Great video, but I agree with mgibson26. I done this yesterday exactly as described and it didn't come out very well, thats because the door lining was not 100% level and leveling the architrave so it is plumb means the scribe was completely off.
Ah, sorry about that Kevin. Looking back, that was a glaring error in the video. As you rightly say, the crucial thing is to have the front edge of the architrave running parallel with the door lining. I made the assumption that everyone's door linings will be plumb, which is ridiculous as pretty much nothing in my house is plumb! You must have been cursing me by the end of it!
will this work with american , imperial measurements,or do i haveto use metric? lol, i actually find mysel using metric all the time because i do auto body, and almost everything is metric
![Scribing A Cabinet To A Wall [Bent's Woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hzi5V05eMlM/mqdefault.jpg)
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
How would you do the same vibe technique of the door frame wasn't plumb? So, both the wall is out of plumb and the door frame that the trim will attach to I'd not plumb either. Thank you.
A six minute Charlie DIYte classic. Neat solution and not a wasted minute.
Thanks so much mate 👊 I wish I could keep more of my vids under 10 minutes.
5 years old video and still hits the spot. Now to make a corner electric meter box on a uneven wall. Thank you.
Only video I could find that explains how to measure it correctly to get the original edge to sit where you want. Thank you.
Basic method for neat joining, but do we think of it, probably not, but once seen never forgotten. Enjoyed watching.
Thanks Peter - I appreciate the comment 👍🏻
Noone has ever explained this better than you, thanks brother much appreciated
Thanks John, really appreciated that 👊
Excellent video, a really useful tip / technique. I am definitely going to try this out during my bathroom renovation. Keep up the great work.
Best explanation of scribing on You Tube.Kudos Charlie.
Thanks Philip, I really appreciate that. I don't know what Is do without this technique. I used it a few times on this project th-cam.com/video/R1dKybdYyY8/w-d-xo.html
I have an easier way to scribe arcitrave to a wall. Mark the reveal you want on your jamb which in this instance is 5mm. Tack the outer edge of the arcitrave to to that line using a pin nailer or brad nails, you can use a clamp at the header and tack the middle and bottom with a nailer. Then take an off cut which is the same width as the arcitrave and scribe your pencil line down the one that's tacked to the jamb, cut to the line and you're good to go leaving you with that 5mm reveal. Make sure you cut the mitre on top before cutting the scribe line so you'll have that 45° cut
Best explained scribing video I’ve seen and you actually show the finished product! Thanks!
Used this to do this exact job, worked great and no need to buy a tool I’m likely not to need again , thank you 😊
Glad to hear it Darren. Thanks for the comment 👌
Accurate scribing certainly makes a big difference to the overall look of the job. Kitchen fitters have this off to a fine art and like yourself no fancy tool in sight. Thanks for sharing I learnt a lot from this and your most recent vid.
I love these tricks! Thank you! As a math teacher it could be fun to explore this and why it works with my class :)
You're welcome. That's a great idea. You're never too young to learn to scribe 👍🏻
Wow you've said me a few quid - I was going to buy one of those doodah's off ebay for a fiver. No need to buy one anymore since a piece of wood will get the job done. Top man!
Thanks, thas's exactly what I was looking for. Tomorrow I'am gonna to install a similar door. Best regards from México.
Love your channel. Perfect for beginners without expert knowledge or specific tools for every situation
Thanks - I really appreciate that, and that's absolutely who I'm aiming at 🙂
Well de-scribed! Thank you.
Aha! Very good! and thanks!
denbydish Yey - I like it!
de-scribed!! You cheeky sod
Lol
Thanks for that Charlie. Im a plasterer by trade but often have to do small amounts of joinery. This is a very useful technique to help me through my working day.
Thanks for the comment Garry - much appreciated!
Perfect explaination for a DIYer like myself, thanks.
Absolutely brilliant - it’s videos like this that make life so much easier. Thanks Charlie, you’ve just sorted out a major DIY headache for me
Ah thanks. Really chuffed you found it useful. Thanks for the comment. 👌
Best explained scribing video I’ve seen. Congrats!
This is exactly what I needed to see....we live in "the house that Jack built" and that my husband and I keep fixing.
we have a really funky corner near a linen closet that is not only not plumb but it's not the same depth from top to bottom. I created my own template to scribe the wall by popping a hole in a wooden paint stirrer for the point of a pencil...I'm hoping this works for me...I really think it will...thanks for this video...
Glad to hear it Rosemary - yes that should work great!
Thank you Charlie,
I have a feeling that i'll need all your videos just to keep up on my home. My house was built in 1920 with many additions (poorly done i'd say). This is our first house, lucky us!
Hi Kray, thanks for taking the time to comment. I was in a pretty similar situation with my first house - and it's taught me most of what I know, so sit back and enjoy the ride. My current house is just the same! It's the best and only way to learn! In the meantime, drop me a comment if you're got any DIY conundrums! Good luck!
Well done I am a retired linoleum layer I have been making patterns to cut sheet goods for 40+ years basically the way you scribed your molding using an18inch straight edge.
Thanks Michael. It's great to get a positive endorsement like that from a pro 👍
Brilliant Video
I'm just about to do exactly what you showed
A Door Achrcitrave! It's even on the same side of the door! How lucky was that!
Many thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thanks! You're very welcome - thanks for taking the time to comment. Best of luck with the scribing. Hope it goes well 🤞
Great tutorial on how to scribe, now we need one on how to sub-scribe.
Thanks Mustaqueem. In my new vids I talk about this and normally there's a link at the end, but here's the link th-cam.com/users/CharlieDIYte
Simple elegance! Thanks for the tip! I can use this idea to scribe a shelf to match my curved wall.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice video on explaining how to scribe architrave. Still alittle “gappy” but close enough for a DIYer. One thing us professional carpenters do is back cut (bevel the saw slightly) when cutting the line to ensure a nice tight fit against the wall. Much more accurate with a nice sharp hand saw. Also always cut your mitre before you start cutting the scribe as it’s a pain to cut afterwards.
Nice job! :)
Another way is to cut an angle, but cut a little away from the line, so you can easily sand the remaining bit down to the line. The angled cut means you only have to sand a thin edge down, means a lot less sanding, but you can still get the fine accuracy that sanding affords.
Hi there, what do you find is the best method for cutting your scribe on a 2x2 upright when you’re cutting with the grain? I found it particularly awkward with a wavy wall. Thanks.
@@meldrew728 I always scribe thin pieces with a table saw, I just cut at 5 or 7° to create a bevel and get it as close to the line as possible, sounds hard but should get the hang of it on the 3rd piece if not leave a little more than the line and sand the rest. That's what the bevel is for so you can remove material fasters and it also leaves less gap between material
Your a good tutor. I've learned so much from you. The silicone scrapers ect my silicone skills have improved tremendous..
Love the scribeing . But you want to know the best part. To look at you i would of never had you down as a tradesman
Thank you, you're the only one that has explained how to measure out your scribber distance
+Hamish Leiper You're very welcome Hamish, and thanks for the comment - positive feedback from you guys makes doing these videos worthwhile!
Excellent video, explained nice and clear in a simple way
Thanks 👊
Very helpful. Thank you. Always enjoy your presentation.
You're very welcome. Thanks so much for that 👍
Very helpful, framed something out and need to scribe some side panels - nice to see you do proper DIY tricks like the block and just using basic tools like a jigsaw
Basic tools is the way I roll, mate 👍😉
Charlie to the rescue...again! Thanks
Ah, glad to hear it John. Thanks for letting me know 👍
Damn, that piece he cut fit in straight as hell..he literally nailed it perfect
Thank you brother, your tips came in handy today!! 🙌
I'm pretty new to carpentry. Really enjoying your channel. Game changer for me and my uneven walls, haha! Thanks Charlie!
You're very welcome mate - thanks for taking the time to comment!
Great vid. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
You're welcome John, thanks for the comment.
@@CharlieDIYte no probs. Your channel has really helped me during my house build.
This is amazing. Thank you. Solves my problem perfectly
Thanks👍🏻
Thank you just what I needed to know. Cheers.
Thanks Colin. Glad you found it useful.
I've always used a compass to scribe panels etc. to an even wall and slightly under cut them so you get a tighter join..
Amazing! So simple once it was explained. Thanks! 👍
It's a cool little skill to learn. As you say, once someone points out how it works, it's so simple 👍
Thank you! That part about how to determine how much to cut off was brilliant! Just what I was looking for. Thanks again for sharing the info. Btw, you’ve got mad skills with a hand saw.
Thanks just what I needed will be trying this once my busted foot has mended.
Scribing, great way of getting perfection! Nice tip. Learned this tip from an old boy in my younger days. Nice explanation.
+Zed Man Thanks - appreciate that!
Hi there. Just to let you know, I've redone the paint brush cleaning video incorporating your great tip on recycling the white spirit, and will be posting it in a few minutes. Thought I'd let you know as your ears might start burning soon :)
Wow thank you . Done it before but forgot thank you
good demonstration, thanks
Time saver! Thanks mate.
You're welcome 👍🏻
Wow, genius! You helped us so much and we got a good finish. Thanks.
Yey - that's great news, and thanks so much for the comment!
Thanks a lot!! Great explanation
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment 👊🏻
Damn- why didn't I watch this video before fitting my new door!! I just spent over an hour measuring, marking, cutting and trimming to get to the same result!
Perfect video for what I need to do.. Thanks
You're welcome Pete. Thanks for the comment!
Another fantastic tutorial
Exactly the information I needed for the exact situation. Thanks!
Glad to hear it, Josh! Thanks for taking the time to comment - much appreciated!
Great video
Nice video Charlie. Thanks
Appreciate the trick.
Nice video
Thanks. Glad you found it useful 👍
Simple and to the point. Thanks for the tip!
Best method is to find the point where the wall projects the most and sit the architrave against it. At that point, measure how far the architrave projects past the frame.
Fix the architrave top and bottom at this measurement so it’s parallel with the frame.
It’s best to fix using oval nails where possible. Screws require more filling and run the risk of splitting out (spelching)when withdrawn if you’ve put them below surface , as the timber can expand back over the edge of the head of the screw.
Cut the scribe block to the size of the margin and the architrave projection combined. Before marking with a pen, put masking tape down the edge of the architrave where it touches the wall. Masking tape makes the scribe line more visible and helps reduce spelching out when cutting along the scribe.
I prefer to cut with a fine cut panel saw. If you use a jog saw, use a blade that cuts on the downstroke to reduce spelching out on the face of the architrave.
Once you begin cutting, you should back cut. This means cutting off 90 degree along the scribe so that the front (visible) part of the scribe touches the wall first.
This also means you don’t need to rely on decorators caulk to hide your sins.
That’s how I would do it
Can you skip the step of finding the most protruding part of the wall.and just set it to an arbitrary parallel distance from frame. Then continue from there?
Very useful thanks for sharing.
Thanks Shiraz. Glad you found it useful!
Loved it!!!! Very helpful.
Carpentry brilliance!
Thanks Viviana! 👍
brilliant!
lovely mate well done cheers
Thanks!
Thanks, that was very clear.
thank you
If door frame isn’t plumb, mark 8mm on the frame or whatever inset you do and fix the back edge of the arc to it, then get a block the same width of the architrave and run a pencil mark down it following the contours of the wall and jigsaw to the pencil line👍🏼
thanks.
very useful
Great video thanks for the tips - you really look like Gordon Ramsey too!!
FX Precision - shoulda gone to Specsavers!
I thought the exact same thing.
Top man thanks
Great tip thanks
Thanks Steve!
Awesome!! Thank you.
Brilliant
Thanks 👊
Thank you for sharing this info.
Real neat!
Awesome!!!
Thanks Todd!
Dude, your house is about to tip over... run!!!
Chris S Ha! It's been about to tip over for 100 years so I'm pretty sure I'll be safe - but thanks for the warning 😁
groovy backbeat
Great video, but it assumes the door casing is vertical doesn't it (as you used the spirit level to set the architrave vertical)?
That's correct. I should have pointed that out. So if it's not vertical, you just need to make sure you have the architrave parallel with the front edge of the door casing when you scribe.
Thanks Charlie. Thought I'd check before I tried it. Great channel by the way.
I'm in Charlie!
How do you do it with mdf paneling
have you got a video of how to fit shelf into alcove where alcove sides are exactly parallel
Hi Charlie , what did you find is the best method for cutting your scribe on the upright for the insane bookcase? I found it particularly awkward for a wavy wall with a 2x2 upright, cutting with the grain. Thanks.
You basically have to start with a piece of wood that's wider than it needs to be, somehow fix it in position with the inner piece parallel with the unit that you're fitting it to, and then do your scribing. I find my belt sander very important to fine tune sections the jigsaw hasn't quite cut accurately. Once you have a scribe that accurately follows the contours of the wall, you can turn your attention to the straight section and trim that back so that it sits flush with the inside of the bookcase, door frame etc. A set of swanky scribes are useful to have. I used them on the wardrobe build a few times. Saves having to cut a scribe block.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks, I understand the process. The problem came with following a wavy line on 2x2 cutting with the grain. A handsaw wasn’t flexible enough and a jigsaw blade not firm enough. The first result was to just have the high and low points right but nothing in between. I’m now considering cutting it roughly and buying a flap disc for a grinder to fine tune it.
Hi there Charlie, hope all is well. something slightly different on what you are showing here. Have you ever drilled in to a a ground floor made of concrete( a home) to say fix a plinth ? I may need to do it its just that one has to be careful not to hit the DPM. thanks in advance, ps I am talking about using tapcon screws (blue concrete screws u may know of) and around 30mm deep.
I have to say, I haven't. Does it need mechanically fixing? Could you instead fix it down with a grab adhesive?
I'm the 1000th sub
Molly White Nice work Molly! Thanks for subscribing 😀
Cool tip, I'm assuming it only works accurately if the door jamb is perfectly plum as the arc was? Most older frames are usually bellied/bowed on at least one side. I'll definitely be playing with this one though
What you could do Danny is fix it in roughly the right position, scribe it to the wall, then when you've completed the scribe, push it into the wall and then scribe to the door frame. A bit of a pain but sometimes needs must!
@@CharlieDIYte brilliant thanks mate, need something better than measuring top, middle bottom its questionable at times I'll be using this for sure
Could you explain how to calculate feather edge boards needed over a certain span, do i divide the width of the board less the overlap into the length i want to cover, thought I'd ask as you explain well and i used this scribing method after watching this video and it worked great, i kmew how to scribe as to tracing the uneven surface to another but couldn't fathom how to get it in the right place without cutting the other edge to suit, Thanks
Hi John, thanks for the feedback! Yes, that is exactly how I'd do it. You should allow a minimum of 25mm to 30mm overlap. So for example if you have 150mm wide boards then each board will give a coverage of 125mm - or 8 boards per metre. There are various calculators available - such as this one goo.gl/7iot7n that even tells you how many counter rails, notch posts etc etc you need (assuming of course you're making a fence!). That reminds me, I have a section of fence in the garden to replace...!
Charlie DIYte thanks for the reply, big help cheers
Hello! Can this be done with a baseboard? My walls are so uneven, the baseboard curves in the middle.
Yes absolutely Cynthia, but it's going to be a little tricky to remove and might look a bit odd of you end up with a very thin base board in certain areas. Can you not mechanically fix (screw) the base board to the wall, which will pull it in around the uneven lumps in the wall?
I can try that Charlie! Thanks for answering so quickly!
Great video, but I agree with mgibson26. I done this yesterday exactly as described and it didn't come out very well, thats because the door lining was not 100% level and leveling the architrave so it is plumb means the scribe was completely off.
Ah, sorry about that Kevin. Looking back, that was a glaring error in the video. As you rightly say, the crucial thing is to have the front edge of the architrave running parallel with the door lining. I made the assumption that everyone's door linings will be plumb, which is ridiculous as pretty much nothing in my house is plumb! You must have been cursing me by the end of it!
thought it was Gordon lmao
You're not the first to say that 🤣
I suggest dropping the background music so we can hear you better.
The (cheesy background) music was a big mistake from my early videos. I don't play it any more and can only apologise!
Does this mean that the maximum width of the piece of wood is 22mm or you are taking off extra or the other way round? Don't really get it.
will this work with american , imperial measurements,or do i haveto use metric? lol, i actually find mysel using metric all the time because i do auto body, and almost everything is metric
well...i am going to scribe a 34 ft ceiling wall....will this work?
+william pulver I don't see any reason why not. Just cut your block of wood, or set your scribing tool to the widest point and then scribe away!
Much better to use a compass for a tighter fit
There are some pretty good bespoke scribing tools out there. 👍
Please go over how your calculated the 22mm.... confusing.
This is exactly what filler was invented for. Quicker and easier
Yep, I agree 👍
Chef Ramsey?
Ha, I've had a fair few people saying that 😏
That was a long ass wall, seems like he was scribing down forever..LoL..