This is great, Rus. You are really good at explaining this stuff. This is going to save people a lot of money. (I would have replaced my whole freezer.) I bet this channel ends up doing really well for you
Hey Rus ....perfectly explained and great tutorial video. Man they don't make things to last long anymore gone are those days. It's a plus when you're able to troubleshoot the problem and repair it. Thanks for sharing. Cheers!🍻
Yeah I would imagine a lot of people just replaced the freezer with a new one. That is why I wanted to do this video. It can save a lot of money and aggravation
I did exactly how you instructed and it fixed my hotpoint freezer. Ordered a $9 relay from amazon. Delivered next day took the relay out put in new relay and boom!! Worked right away! Thank 🙏🏽 u!! The freezer is 4yrs old was going to throw it out. U saved me from having to empty everything out and haul it onto the curb for trash. Now my girlfriend is happy it’s working again. 😅
This is a great video, Rus! They usually end up at the dump, but now, for those that have this problem, well, you've shown them how to save a ton of money! 👍
Rus thank you for putting out this video my wife was in a frenzy 😅 we were about to spend another $200 on a freezer. I did exactly what you said and got the part from Amazon and im up and running thanks again...
It was definitely worth investigating Rob, and saved me a few hundred dollars from having to buy a new freezer. Many times people throw things out when it could just be a simple easy fix. Thanks buddy!
@@SkillSavvyDIY Yes I know Rus. Had to buy a new dryer last month when I was out of town helping my Dad. My old dryer is sitting in the garage now....probably just a thermal overload opened. I've had it happen before, but being out of town my GF had to have a dryer so I sent her to Lowe's to grab one...$700 later!
Rus I don't know anything about electric or plumbing , I'm retired for the last 6 years but spent most of my work life hanging Sheetrock , which is why my body is breaking down. With that being said , I might just learn something from your videos... THANK YOU FRANK FROM MONTANA.....
Russ, Good video my question is i have very similar chest freezer I converted to a cold plunge I filled with water about half way. My water is only getting to 50 deg! Last year it was getting all the way down to 29 deg! Ice/Frost forms above the water line but for some reason its not cooling below 50 this year! Any tips? The only thing i did different this year was coat the inside with pond shield! Your advise would be much appreciated:)
The only thing I can think of other than a possible loss of refrigerant would be the pond shield you used, could be causing to much insulation between the evaporator and the water to achieve the colder temps you had last year. If it doesn't have good thermal conductance then that could possibly be your issue.
Thanks for getting back to me I had been thinking the same thing! Last night i filled the freezer to the top of frost line and it actually came down to the set point of 40 degrees. I also had unplugged the freezer and turned the switch to the off position for about ten minutes hoping it would do a reset! This morning i got in to allow the water to over flow for my normal body weight. Now will see if it controls!
Hi i have 2017 lg refrigerator not cooling both of compartment and compressor vibrating and all the fan running. do you think if replace overload relay should fix issues?
There are things I would check but it requires tapping into the refrigerant lines and using ac gauges to check for refrigerant capacity and to monitor if the compressor is even pumping to name a few
I wish I could be of more help but trying to solve an issue over youtube comments is really not a good way and very little help. You really need to be able to read both low and high side of system to know what's really going on with the pressures and the compressor itself. I'm assuming you were reading 45 psi on the low side while the compressor was running. I can tell you now that it is not pumping down enough to achieve sub freezing temps at the evaporator if the system is using R134A. Not sure what refrigerant your fridge has however.
i tested mine and got 5.8ohm on the overload, and .5 on the relay switch. though im not getting any heat at the condensor when i turn it on if these parts dont solve it might it be the thermostat? its an artic king where the thermostat is built in with the off temp settings dial.
If the thermostat is bad, then the compressor won't come on, or it stays on all the time. It just breaks the voltage to the compressor, but sometimes the contacts can weld them self together.
@@SkillSavvyDIY Rus, As easy as this fix is I’m definitely going to check this first if I ever have an issue with freezer or fridge before I decide to junk it and get a new one. It sure couldn’t hurt to do this check, worse case scenario, it gets junked right?
I've been struggling to diagnose my freezer. Can you help me? I got it from someone who said it worked but it didn't when I got it to my place. I plug it in and it never cools down; I think I smell a fait chemical smell when I open the lid. I looked at the internal components and have been doing some testing. When I plug it in I hear it try to come on but then after a few seconds I hear it click off. I tested the capacitor and it's rated as 12mf but the when i put a multimeter on it for ohms it climbs to 20 ohms. The starter relay shows continuity all three ways. The compressor ohms reading measures 10.6-11 ohms between the start and run winding terminals, maybe 7.5 for the start to common but there was a a wide spread of variability and then 3.5-5.5 on the run to common. Compressor was drawing about 12.2 amps and the LRA value on the compressor is 14.6. (for what it's worth I measured amperage going into and coming out of the thermostat and it was around the same, varying from slightly below 12 to slightly above 12v. This evening I just replaced the capacitor and it didn't help and then I replaced the relay, too, but the result is the same, I hear some faint noise like it's trying to come on and then it clicks off. After I replaced both the capacitor and the relay I noticed pungent odor, not a sweet smell like I thought freon smells like, and then when I went to unplug the relay from the compressor I noticed that it was very hot on the top of it. Where do I go from here? By process of elimination I think I can just assume that it's the compressor but I'm someone who wants to understand the why and as far as I understand given these values the compressor should be functional. So can you help me fix my freezer and understand what's going on? Thank for your time if you decide to give it!
From your description it is kicking out on overload. When checking a capacitor, check the microfarads, not the ohms. Look to see if your multimeter has the symbol for capacitance, or sometimes it will have this symbol µF but normally it's the capacitor symbol. Normally if the reading is within 5 percent + or - of the listed microfarads then the capacitor is good but look on the capacitor to see what percentage it says. When checking the ohm values of the windings, first check each one to make sure they are not shorted to ground, which if the circuit breaker is not tripping off then it probably isn't but I always check anyway by ohming between the winding terminals and the copper tubing coming out of the compressor. If all is good, then check the ohms between the common and run winding, then check the ohms between the common and start winding, then finally check the ohms between the start and the run windings. Total the first two readings by adding them together. The total should equal the last reading between the start and the run or close to. If the compressor windings show good and are not shorted to ground and if the capacitor shows good, then there is a possibility that the compressor is locked up. You can use a hard start kit to see if that will knock it loose. It will in many cases but not always. As far as the smell goes, refrigerant is suppose to be odorless, but sometimes I can detect like a sweet smell with certain refrigerants even though it's suppose to not have any. Unfortunately the manufacturer doesn't install charging ports on freezers. It's a completely sealed unit. So you have to tap into the lines to get access. I prefer to use the braze in taps. I would try to get the compressor running before chasing a possible leak. If you try a hard start kit, make sure to match it to the horsepower of the compressor. Here is an example: amzn.to/47B2FI4 If the hard start kit doesn't kick it on, then the compressor is shot. Either way hang on to the hard start kit. It can be used on other refrigerators and freezers. Hope this helps
@@SkillSavvyDIY I appreciate the response. I'll get back to you once I chase down some of these leads. Thank you! --- right off is that when I'm trying to measure the resistance between the terminals on the compressor i get a lot of fluctuation in the reading. Is this an indication of something? Either about the compressor about the multimeter? on start to ground it will flash as high as 133 and sort of settle around 7.5. But it doesn't give me a firm and stable readout. I tried using a second multimeter and it fluctuates less but still does a bit.
I would lean more towards the multimeter. If you have alligator clips that attach to the probes, I would use those. It has to be a good connection to the winding terminals to get an accurate measurement. The windings are fixed and should not be giving erratic readings. Typically they are either open or closed, and I'm assuming none are shorted to ground.
No it does not. A capacitor can store voltage but not this thermistor style start relay. Just make sure to unplug the freezer if you ever have to replace this part.
I changed out the relay, the compressor will kick on and warm up but then the sound fades and nothing seems to be happening. It's not shutting off but it's not cooling either. Compressor is warm as is the relay. Maybe the compressor is bad? Mine is less than 4 years old.
Was your compressor initially kicking out on overload like mine was? The relay should be replaced only if the compressor won't start up and run. Both the compressor and the relay will be warm while running to answer your question but that doesn't mean it is pumping correctly. It does take a little while to remove the heat from the freezer, but if its not cooling still and the compressor is still running then the relay was not your issue. You have either low refrigerant, a restriction in the refrigerant line or a compressor that is not pumping. Gauges would have to used to determine the problem.
No it is not. Once the thermostat is satisfied, the compressor should not come back on for awhile. Is your freezer reaching temperatures, lets say near 0°F
@@oliviatekyie2572 If the freezer is reaching desired low temperatures and cycling off, but cycles back on in only 10 minutes, then it has to be subjected to a substantial heat load around it of some kind that is raising the freezer inside temp up rapidly. Is the freezer outside in the heat by any chance, possibly the porch? I also suggest inspecting the door gasket to make sure it is sealing good. If neither one of these are the problem, then I'm not sure.
Can't help much without actually testing things hands on, because there is a list of things that can cause it not to get cold even though the compressor is running, such as low refrigerant due to a leak, a compressor that runs but is no longer pumping. Condenser fan not working driving up head pressures. Dirty condenser coil preventing air flow through it to name a few off the top of my head.
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Looks like Hotpoint employed bean counters instead of engineers. Small relays can't cost that much more, great video!
Thanks for watching!
Naw bean counters don’t work for that amount (yet).
I am so glad you decided to trouble shoot this thing! We sure do need this because of all we do! You are a great hubby!
Thank you dear! ❤️
This is great, Rus. You are really good at explaining this stuff. This is going to save people a lot of money. (I would have replaced my whole freezer.)
I bet this channel ends up doing really well for you
Thanks Justin! It will definitely save money and such an easy repair! Thanks for watching!
Hey Rus ....perfectly explained and great tutorial video. Man they don't make things to last long anymore gone are those days. It's a plus when you're able to troubleshoot the problem and repair it. Thanks for sharing. Cheers!🍻
Thanks Stephen and your right, quality is gone. It's a real shame.
I need to get this channel in my memory almost hoped over it, so true at today prices you prob saved what 500.00
Lol Lance! You will get use to it. Absolutely worth the little money and time to just fix it.
A little know how and a little time and you can save some good $$ ! Well done Mr Savvy !
You got that right! Thanks for watching Kent!
Dang Rus I think I had the same issue and I scrapped the freezer, wish I knew this . Great video and well explained. Awesome stuff 👏. Cheers brother 🍻
Yeah I would imagine a lot of people just replaced the freezer with a new one. That is why I wanted to do this video. It can save a lot of money and aggravation
Good stuff Rus.
Glad you enjoyed it
I did exactly how you instructed and it fixed my hotpoint freezer. Ordered a $9 relay from amazon. Delivered next day took the relay out put in new relay and boom!! Worked right away! Thank 🙏🏽 u!! The freezer is 4yrs old was going to throw it out. U saved me from having to empty everything out and haul it onto the curb for trash. Now my girlfriend is happy it’s working again. 😅
4 years is how long mine lasted before going out as well. Glad to hear this video saved you money and aggravation.
This is a great video, Rus! They usually end up at the dump, but now, for those that have this problem, well, you've shown them how to save a ton of money! 👍
Thanks Kevin! Definitely worth the effort to just fix things and save the dollars. I appreciate you watching Kevin!
Same exact issue. Same exact freezer. Thank you!!
You're welcome!
Rus thank you for putting out this video my wife was in a frenzy 😅 we were about to spend another $200 on a freezer. I did exactly what you said and got the part from Amazon and im up and running thanks again...
That is awesome! Glad this video helped you out.
I bookmarked this one Rus! I have one like this and I'm coming up on 3 years with it! Thanks for sharing!
Get prepared cause it’s going to happen but hopefully yours will go longer without needing to replace the start relay
Was given this frezzer 31/2 years old thinking this was there problem
Great work explaining this Rus! A little work in this case really saved you a lot.
It was definitely worth investigating Rob, and saved me a few hundred dollars from having to buy a new freezer. Many times people throw things out when it could just be a simple easy fix. Thanks buddy!
@@SkillSavvyDIY Yes I know Rus. Had to buy a new dryer last month when I was out of town helping my Dad. My old dryer is sitting in the garage now....probably just a thermal overload opened. I've had it happen before, but being out of town my GF had to have a dryer so I sent her to Lowe's to grab one...$700 later!
Rus I don't know anything about electric or plumbing , I'm retired for the last 6 years but spent most of my work life hanging Sheetrock , which is why my body is breaking down. With that being said , I might just learn something from your videos... THANK YOU FRANK FROM MONTANA.....
Either way I appreciate you watching and supporting the new channel Frank! Thank you!
Russ,
Good video my question is i have very similar chest freezer
I converted to a cold plunge
I filled with water about half way.
My water is only getting to 50 deg!
Last year it was getting all the way down to 29 deg!
Ice/Frost forms above the water line but for some reason its not cooling below 50 this year!
Any tips?
The only thing i did different this year was coat the inside with pond shield!
Your advise would be much appreciated:)
The only thing I can think of other than a possible loss of refrigerant would be the pond shield you used, could be causing to much insulation between the evaporator and the water to achieve the colder temps you had last year. If it doesn't have good thermal conductance then that could possibly be your issue.
Thanks for getting back to me
I had been thinking the same thing!
Last night i filled the freezer to the top of frost line and it actually came down to the set point of 40 degrees.
I also had unplugged the freezer and turned the switch to the off position for about ten minutes hoping it would do a reset!
This morning i got in to allow the water to over flow for my normal body weight.
Now will see if it controls!
Great information. The external monitor is a great idea. Going to get a couple.
Thanks Gary! Yeah those alarms can save a lot of food from spoiling. Its not a matter if a freezer will go out, its a matter of when
Yes I have had it happen. Not good at all.@@SkillSavvyDIY
Hi i have 2017 lg refrigerator not cooling both of compartment and compressor vibrating and all the fan running. do you think if replace overload relay should fix issues?
If the compressor is vibrating it means its running and the relay is not the issue.
@@SkillSavvyDIY thank you for reply back . Do you have any suggestions to check?
There are things I would check but it requires tapping into the refrigerant lines and using ac gauges to check for refrigerant capacity and to monitor if the compressor is even pumping to name a few
@@SkillSavvyDIY I use self piercing valve and psi were 45
I wish I could be of more help but trying to solve an issue over youtube comments is really not a good way and very little help. You really need to be able to read both low and high side of system to know what's really going on with the pressures and the compressor itself. I'm assuming you were reading 45 psi on the low side while the compressor was running. I can tell you now that it is not pumping down enough to achieve sub freezing temps at the evaporator if the system is using R134A. Not sure what refrigerant your fridge has however.
Great video!! We have a freezer, so good to know this 😊
Thanks sis, I appreciate you coming by and watching.
Another great video, im gonna have to watch all of them 😊
i tested mine and got 5.8ohm on the overload, and .5 on the relay switch. though im not getting any heat at the condensor when i turn it on if these parts dont solve it might it be the thermostat? its an artic king where the thermostat is built in with the off temp settings dial.
If the thermostat is bad, then the compressor won't come on, or it stays on all the time. It just breaks the voltage to the compressor, but sometimes the contacts can weld them self together.
Thanks Rus - another great tip. - Cheers!
Thanks Garry, I appreciate the support by watching my videos on this new channel!
Cool info to know!
Yes it is. You just never know when these start relays are going to give up. Thanks for watching!
@@SkillSavvyDIY Rus, As easy as this fix is I’m definitely going to check this first if I ever have an issue with freezer or fridge before I decide to junk it and get a new one. It sure couldn’t hurt to do this check, worse case scenario, it gets junked right?
@@jjsager1 It is absolutely worth investigating before junking it, especially when it’s not that old.
I've been struggling to diagnose my freezer. Can you help me?
I got it from someone who said it worked but it didn't when I got it to my place. I plug it in and it never cools down; I think I smell a fait chemical smell when I open the lid. I looked at the internal components and have been doing some testing.
When I plug it in I hear it try to come on but then after a few seconds I hear it click off.
I tested the capacitor and it's rated as 12mf but the when i put a multimeter on it for ohms it climbs to 20 ohms.
The starter relay shows continuity all three ways.
The compressor ohms reading measures 10.6-11 ohms between the start and run winding terminals, maybe 7.5 for the start to common but there was a a wide spread of variability and then 3.5-5.5 on the run to common.
Compressor was drawing about 12.2 amps and the LRA value on the compressor is 14.6. (for what it's worth I measured amperage going into and coming out of the thermostat and it was around the same, varying from slightly below 12 to slightly above 12v.
This evening I just replaced the capacitor and it didn't help and then I replaced the relay, too, but the result is the same, I hear some faint noise like it's trying to come on and then it clicks off. After I replaced both the capacitor and the relay I noticed pungent odor, not a sweet smell like I thought freon smells like, and then when I went to unplug the relay from the compressor I noticed that it was very hot on the top of it.
Where do I go from here? By process of elimination I think I can just assume that it's the compressor but I'm someone who wants to understand the why and as far as I understand given these values the compressor should be functional. So can you help me fix my freezer and understand what's going on?
Thank for your time if you decide to give it!
From your description it is kicking out on overload. When checking a capacitor, check the microfarads, not the ohms. Look to see if your multimeter has the symbol for capacitance, or sometimes it will have this symbol µF but normally it's the capacitor symbol. Normally if the reading is within 5 percent + or - of the listed microfarads then the capacitor is good but look on the capacitor to see what percentage it says. When checking the ohm values of the windings, first check each one to make sure they are not shorted to ground, which if the circuit breaker is not tripping off then it probably isn't but I always check anyway by ohming between the winding terminals and the copper tubing coming out of the compressor.
If all is good, then check the ohms between the common and run winding, then check the ohms between the common and start winding, then finally check the ohms between the start and the run windings. Total the first two readings by adding them together. The total should equal the last reading between the start and the run or close to.
If the compressor windings show good and are not shorted to ground and if the capacitor shows good, then there is a possibility that the compressor is locked up. You can use a hard start kit to see if that will knock it loose. It will in many cases but not always. As far as the smell goes, refrigerant is suppose to be odorless, but sometimes I can detect like a sweet smell with certain refrigerants even though it's suppose to not have any. Unfortunately the manufacturer doesn't install charging ports on freezers. It's a completely sealed unit. So you have to tap into the lines to get access. I prefer to use the braze in taps. I would try to get the compressor running before chasing a possible leak.
If you try a hard start kit, make sure to match it to the horsepower of the compressor. Here is an example: amzn.to/47B2FI4 If the hard start kit doesn't kick it on, then the compressor is shot. Either way hang on to the hard start kit. It can be used on other refrigerators and freezers.
Hope this helps
@@SkillSavvyDIY I appreciate the response. I'll get back to you once I chase down some of these leads. Thank you!
--- right off is that when I'm trying to measure the resistance between the terminals on the compressor i get a lot of fluctuation in the reading. Is this an indication of something? Either about the compressor about the multimeter? on start to ground it will flash as high as 133 and sort of settle around 7.5. But it doesn't give me a firm and stable readout. I tried using a second multimeter and it fluctuates less but still does a bit.
I would lean more towards the multimeter. If you have alligator clips that attach to the probes, I would use those. It has to be a good connection to the winding terminals to get an accurate measurement. The windings are fixed and should not be giving erratic readings. Typically they are either open or closed, and I'm assuming none are shorted to ground.
@@SkillSavvyDIY solid advice, alligator clamps gave steady reading and it checks out. So onto trying a hard start unit.
Does this device hold a charge even after its unplugged? I don't want to get shocked. Thank you
No it does not. A capacitor can store voltage but not this thermistor style start relay. Just make sure to unplug the freezer if you ever have to replace this part.
I changed out the relay, the compressor will kick on and warm up but then the sound fades and nothing seems to be happening. It's not shutting off but it's not cooling either. Compressor is warm as is the relay. Maybe the compressor is bad? Mine is less than 4 years old.
Was your compressor initially kicking out on overload like mine was? The relay should be replaced only if the compressor won't start up and run. Both the compressor and the relay will be warm while running to answer your question but that doesn't mean it is pumping correctly. It does take a little while to remove the heat from the freezer, but if its not cooling still and the compressor is still running then the relay was not your issue. You have either low refrigerant, a restriction in the refrigerant line or a compressor that is not pumping. Gauges would have to used to determine the problem.
Hello there. Please is it normal for a new chest freezer to turn off and on every 10 minutes
No it is not. Once the thermostat is satisfied, the compressor should not come back on for awhile. Is your freezer reaching temperatures, lets say near 0°F
@@SkillSavvyDIY Yes! It's reaches temperatures
@@SkillSavvyDIY but is there something i can do to makes it any better. The way it turns off and on every 10 minutes. Please
@@oliviatekyie2572 If the freezer is reaching desired low temperatures and cycling off, but cycles back on in only 10 minutes, then it has to be subjected to a substantial heat load around it of some kind that is raising the freezer inside temp up rapidly. Is the freezer outside in the heat by any chance, possibly the porch? I also suggest inspecting the door gasket to make sure it is sealing good. If neither one of these are the problem, then I'm not sure.
Great information
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing.
Your welcome, thanks for watching
My freezers compressor is going but it's not cooling. Please help!
Can't help much without actually testing things hands on, because there is a list of things that can cause it not to get cold even though the compressor is running, such as low refrigerant due to a leak, a compressor that runs but is no longer pumping. Condenser fan not working driving up head pressures. Dirty condenser coil preventing air flow through it to name a few off the top of my head.
@@SkillSavvyDIY ok, thank you for the response.
501 subscriber
Pretty easy.
Thanks for the sub!
Looking to get the right part can u sent me it
As I said in the video I put links in the video description box where I got it on Amazon for this model freezer
A good idea is to fill the compressor with water before regassing. Then there is no need to vacuum
You go for it!