There was a good comment about blades going blunt quickly, which I can't find. It reminded me there are some points I forgot to make in the video. Sorry I lost the comment but I hope I answer your points here. The Schärffix isn't the answer for all paring - for me anyway. I still use a knife for most edge paring and I can;t get a feather edge with it (I have to do this with a knife). There are leathers that just take the edge off the blades too quickly. And if you don't change the blades before they reach a certain level of bluntness they will grab and cut through. The blades are double sided so you get 2 uses from each blade. When I was younger I used English made Wilkinson Swords for shaving and I could get 5 shaves from these compared to 3 from the modern WS. Maybe my beard was softer. Not all blades are made equal, and the only 2 I now use are the Japanese made Feather brand and the German made Wilkinson Sword. The later hold an edge longer while the former start sharper in my opinion. If I want to go super thin I start with the WS and then swap to a Feather for the final cut once the leather has become fragile. I found it a game changer for paring leather for labels and inner joints.
I love your videos. I actually used to put Stopan's videos on in the background when I first started binding. Lo & behold the first video I watch of yours is you binding a pdf you downloaded from him. Since then in your videos, I always seem to find the answers to questions I have when I need them, and just recently I have been trying to figure out how to sewn board binding and you happen to upload your tutorial. I really appreciate that you mention names, resources, and demonstrate tools in your videos (i.e. the cardscraper from edge gilding video). You've been an encouragement for me to take my binding up a level and get back to that experimental mindset again. Thank you so much.
Really glad to hear you're moving forward with your binding. I'm trying to do the same. I'm just about out of things I know to do videos on, so I guess I better learn something new fast! All the best, Darryn
I wish I had seen this video before I purchased one of the knockoff brands. I can see how this model is superior is several ways, as you explain. Still, I find it useful in several ways, as long as I watch out for some of the foibles of the unit. Granted my leather work isn’t nearly as precise as yours. Love your videos and your excellent way of showing techniques. Thankss!
thank you ever so much. Just bought a cheap Chinese version. As all Chinese products i buy. I "Upgrade" them as soon as i get them. replace all pivot points.
Thanks. Maybe not useful for everyone. Making some money is always a nice thought, but sponsorship can be a double edged sword - or in this case a double edged safety razor:) Schmedt have some really interesting equipment. Shame shipping from German is so high. All the best, Darryn
Any safety shop or Amazon sells kevlar gloves. They're pretty cheap and can either completely prevent an injury or certainly reduce the seriousness of it, when using a sharp razor around your hands that way. I haven't tried using a Scharfixx so I don't know how much the gloves would interfere with the feel of the work. I use them for a lot of things but, as always, it's a personal choice between trying to eliminate all of life's dangers versus the fun life brings with a bit of risk - so just something to think about or maybe someone will try them and report back on whether there was any benefit.
At least ten or so years ... LOL! Thanks for the video Darryn. I love my Schärffix but I find it so frustrating the the thickness adjustment is backwards and to close the gap you have to turn the knob anti-clockwise - It's just so un-intuitive. But definitely a handy tool to have. It'll even do a good thinning job on hairy-backed chrome-tan.
Hi John. I hadn't thought about it but you are right, it does go against rightie tightie. I lived without it for a long time. But then got sick of not getting labels thin enough with the spokeshave. Also great for inner leather joints. All the best, Darryn
Thanks for the video (i recent purchased a knock off and the directions were terrible for proper procedure). Ive done some mods to it before even using it to hopefully alleviate the problem your budy was having.
I'm still learning to use a knife for paring, but I can definitely see one of these in my future as well. I'd love to be able to use both, as this seems ideal for when you want a completely even pare for something like a spine label or decoration.
Thank you for the video! I actually have Chinese knock-off and it's ok, yes it's holds angle not so well, but it works. With strechy chrome tanned leather it's essential to start from the middle especially for pieces longer than about 10cm, because otherwise leather gets caught somewhere and it's a big chance to make a hole...I mostly use this thing for inner leather joints, it's much faster than with knife.
I have a Chinese knockoff machine I had modifying to my needs. Had to customize my own blades also. Took me better than a month of fiddling with it to get it to my standards. I finally got it right. My brother 3D printed some parts like rollers. It was easier to remake the rollers the the cast body.
Fantastic video. Thank you this german made machine seems to perform a bit better than the Tandy machine and it's probably worth the money. But thank you for your video is fantastic.
Thank you for your video! i just bought one a month ago. I would love if you can make a video of leather joints. Thats one thing i really would like to learn, as i cant find much info online about it.
There are many ways you can do leather joints. The paste down then becomes a doublure. I have a plan for a project that uses a doublure in the future, but it is a very time consuming project. So it will be awhile before I find time to do it. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding do you any references i can look at regarding this, maybe some diagrams or instructions? Thanks again for your videos, and for your quick responses to all the comments
I don't like to pull on a long stretch of thin stretchy leather with my right hand. I roll up the leather in my right hand and pull. This mitigates to some extent the possibility of deforming leather between the roller and the blade.
It is very good. I forgot to mention there used to be a worthy competitor called the Brockman paring machine. I think it is still made but under a different name. All the best, Darryn
I bet it would, but so far I've only done fish parchment which is so hard it could stop a bullet! Once it warms up I will try making fish leather. Videos on these in the future too. All the best, Darryn
That would too easy. Depends on leather and the book being covered. But a rough guide might be 0.6 to 0.8mm for the body of the leather with turn-ins, joints, and sometimes spine usually thinner.
What machine would you recommend that's efficient for a decent price? I have about 100 of these to do at 14 inches long both sides of my piece. At what point do we upgrade to a machine that's powered?
Good question. I know a bookbinder with a machine similar to the one in this video. Works in the same manner. Not sure what a decent price is once you start looking an extremely specialised machine like this. th-cam.com/video/g3cP85Vfc4A/w-d-xo.html
As I can't afford a skiving machine, would this be an option if you want to skive edges only and also on softer leather, like nappa leather, skiving 1mm down to 0.6?
Yep, this is a luxury, you don;t have to have one. You can get away with just paring corners and headcaps. A French style paring knife is probably the most versatile. Your can get fairly cheap ones from Hewits or Talas. But they do need a lot of work to get them very sharp, which is essential. For years I only used an English style paring knife and spokeshave. Good luck! DAS
@@MaryvandenBoogaard It sounds like your leather may be chrome tanned. Soft stretchy leather is difficult to pare using any method. I'm not sure the Scharffix would be any more successful. Good luck! DAS
Yes. You can see from the options at Talas how varied knife paring is www.talasonline.com/Paring-Knives I do show paring in some of the leather videos, but don't go into a lot of detail. It something very diificult to explain. Johnson says paring is simple, all you need is a sharp knife and confidence. Both of these are harder to achieve than you might expect. Arthur Green has a good YT video on this. DAS
Great video! I'm also locate in Australia, could you please tell me where I could acquire this machine from? I only found some US website for this so far
Schärffix can be bought from many places, including the manufacturer in Germany www.schmedt24.de/en/youtube/leather-paring-with-schaerffix/2438/schaerffix-leather-paring-device www.talasonline.com/Scharf-Fix-Paring-Machine www.hewitonline.com/Scharf_Fix_Paring_Machine_and_Spare_Blades_p/tl-091.htm bookbindingaustralia.com.au/product/sharf-fix-pairing-machine/ Tschuss, DAS
Sorry to hear it. It is still a challenging machine to use. If the leather is actually tearing rather than say cutting through, then the blades aren't sharp enough. Not all razor blades are made equal. Japanese made Feather blades are extremely good, as well as Merkur. I shave most days with these razors, and these 2 brands are so much better than most others. It's obvious when you shave with them. Even then occasionally one side will be a bit duller than usual. It's obvious when shaving, and harder to tell when paring.
TY. I watched your video to get positioning and technique and put new blade in. I was successful for one paring and just finished my first bible rebind. The corners look horrible, however it was the first attempt. Thank you for your video!!
There was a good comment about blades going blunt quickly, which I can't find. It reminded me there are some points I forgot to make in the video. Sorry I lost the comment but I hope I answer your points here. The Schärffix isn't the answer for all paring - for me anyway. I still use a knife for most edge paring and I can;t get a feather edge with it (I have to do this with a knife). There are leathers that just take the edge off the blades too quickly. And if you don't change the blades before they reach a certain level of bluntness they will grab and cut through. The blades are double sided so you get 2 uses from each blade. When I was younger I used English made Wilkinson Swords for shaving and I could get 5 shaves from these compared to 3 from the modern WS. Maybe my beard was softer. Not all blades are made equal, and the only 2 I now use are the Japanese made Feather brand and the German made Wilkinson Sword. The later hold an edge longer while the former start sharper in my opinion. If I want to go super thin I start with the WS and then swap to a Feather for the final cut once the leather has become fragile. I found it a game changer for paring leather for labels and inner joints.
I've read recently that the Indian-made Wilkinson Sword blades are better than German-made. Dorco 301 blades are also good.
So very kind of you to take your time and make such a comprehensive video. Thank you.
I love your videos. I actually used to put Stopan's videos on in the background when I first started binding. Lo & behold the first video I watch of yours is you binding a pdf you downloaded from him. Since then in your videos, I always seem to find the answers to questions I have when I need them, and just recently I have been trying to figure out how to sewn board binding and you happen to upload your tutorial. I really appreciate that you mention names, resources, and demonstrate tools in your videos (i.e. the cardscraper from edge gilding video). You've been an encouragement for me to take my binding up a level and get back to that experimental mindset again. Thank you so much.
Really glad to hear you're moving forward with your binding. I'm trying to do the same. I'm just about out of things I know to do videos on, so I guess I better learn something new fast! All the best, Darryn
As a german: Your pronunciation of Schärffix is spot on!
Maybe a lifetime of trying to learn German has paid off just a bischen.
Very interesting machine.
Best instructional video I have seen Thank you for taking the time to show it
Sir, I am in awe at your skills. You have answered so many questions for me and offered me so much inspiration. Thank you so much.
❤️ these tool ~ can’t live without it!
I am about to go on to a leather working course and found your video superb as a primer. Thank you henry
I bought one of these here in Germany years ago and could never get on with it. Your video has helped tremendously. Cheers!
I wish I had seen this video before I purchased one of the knockoff brands. I can see how this model is superior is several ways, as you explain. Still, I find it useful in several ways, as long as I watch out for some of the foibles of the unit. Granted my leather work isn’t nearly as precise as yours. Love your videos and your excellent way of showing techniques. Thankss!
thank you ever so much. Just bought a cheap Chinese version. As all Chinese products i buy. I "Upgrade" them as soon as i get them. replace all pivot points.
Glad you made a separate video for this. Scharffix should sponsor you!
Thanks. Maybe not useful for everyone. Making some money is always a nice thought, but sponsorship can be a double edged sword - or in this case a double edged safety razor:) Schmedt have some really interesting equipment. Shame shipping from German is so high. All the best, Darryn
Any safety shop or Amazon sells kevlar gloves. They're pretty cheap and can either completely prevent an injury or certainly reduce the seriousness of it, when using a sharp razor around your hands that way. I haven't tried using a Scharfixx so I don't know how much the gloves would interfere with the feel of the work. I use them for a lot of things but, as always, it's a personal choice between trying to eliminate all of life's dangers versus the fun life brings with a bit of risk - so just something to think about or maybe someone will try them and report back on whether there was any benefit.
Rien a dire, un outil de grande qualité, sans doute créé par les meilleurs artisans forgerons de Demacia
At least ten or so years ... LOL!
Thanks for the video Darryn. I love my Schärffix but I find it so frustrating the the thickness adjustment is backwards and to close the gap you have to turn the knob anti-clockwise - It's just so un-intuitive. But definitely a handy tool to have. It'll even do a good thinning job on hairy-backed chrome-tan.
Hi John. I hadn't thought about it but you are right, it does go against rightie tightie. I lived without it for a long time. But then got sick of not getting labels thin enough with the spokeshave. Also great for inner leather joints. All the best, Darryn
Thanks for the video (i recent purchased a knock off and the directions were terrible for proper procedure). Ive done some mods to it before even using it to hopefully alleviate the problem your budy was having.
I'm still learning to use a knife for paring, but I can definitely see one of these in my future as well. I'd love to be able to use both, as this seems ideal for when you want a completely even pare for something like a spine label or decoration.
It is perfect for labels and hinges. All the best, DAS
Very helpful. Thanks, Darryn.
Thank you for the video! I actually have Chinese knock-off and it's ok, yes it's holds angle not so well, but it works. With strechy chrome tanned leather it's essential to start from the middle especially for pieces longer than about 10cm, because otherwise leather gets caught somewhere and it's a big chance to make a hole...I mostly use this thing for inner leather joints, it's much faster than with knife.
Thanks for your observations. Yes, good point about starting in the middle. All the best, DAS
I have a Chinese knockoff machine I had modifying to my needs. Had to customize my own blades also. Took me better than a month of fiddling with it to get it to my standards. I finally got it right. My brother 3D printed some parts like rollers. It was easier to remake the rollers the the cast body.
The spring on the angle adjuster wheel is an important addition. The Scharffix I got years ago didn't come with springs.
Fantastic video. Thank you this german made machine seems to perform a bit better than the Tandy machine and it's probably worth the money. But thank you for your video is fantastic.
Featuring using a roller for the job!
Love all your videos
Thanks! Happy binding, DAS
Great. More money I have to spend 😂😂😂. Well done.
Thank you for your video! i just bought one a month ago. I would love if you can make a video of leather joints. Thats one thing i really would like to learn, as i cant find much info online about it.
There are many ways you can do leather joints. The paste down then becomes a doublure. I have a plan for a project that uses a doublure in the future, but it is a very time consuming project. So it will be awhile before I find time to do it. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding do you any references i can look at regarding this, maybe some diagrams or instructions? Thanks again for your videos, and for your quick responses to all the comments
Jen Lindsay’s book Fine Binding. Very detailed instructions. Good luck! Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Looking forward to this video. Love your work!
I don't like to pull on a long stretch of thin stretchy leather with my right hand. I roll up the leather in my right hand and pull. This mitigates to some extent the possibility of deforming leather between the roller and the blade.
Handy tool. There's one in my future.
Check the price! I lived without for a long time. It does makes making labels and inner joints so much easier. All the best, Darryn
No mention of Blade beyond the blade stop? If blade it to far out it will bite in and cut into leather.
Thanks for sharing
That's a great tool!
It is very good. I forgot to mention there used to be a worthy competitor called the Brockman paring machine. I think it is still made but under a different name. All the best, Darryn
What is the tool you used to measure the thickness of the cut leather?
I know it's been a long time, but I stumbled upon your comment. It's called a leather gauge.
@codyjohnson562 Thank you!
But does it work on fish leather? (saw your pics on the 2020 Bind-O-Rama!)
I bet it would, but so far I've only done fish parchment which is so hard it could stop a bullet! Once it warms up I will try making fish leather. Videos on these in the future too. All the best, Darryn
Great video like the others. Is there a fixed or standard thickness for the leather we have to pair? what would be the ideal thickness?
That would too easy. Depends on leather and the book being covered. But a rough guide might be 0.6 to 0.8mm for the body of the leather with turn-ins, joints, and sometimes spine usually thinner.
@@DASBookbinding Thanks
What machine would you recommend that's efficient for a decent price? I have about 100 of these to do at 14 inches long both sides of my piece. At what point do we upgrade to a machine that's powered?
Good question. I know a bookbinder with a machine similar to the one in this video. Works in the same manner. Not sure what a decent price is once you start looking an extremely specialised machine like this.
th-cam.com/video/g3cP85Vfc4A/w-d-xo.html
As I can't afford a skiving machine, would this be an option if you want to skive edges only and also on softer leather, like nappa leather, skiving 1mm down to 0.6?
Yep, this is a luxury, you don;t have to have one. You can get away with just paring corners and headcaps. A French style paring knife is probably the most versatile. Your can get fairly cheap ones from Hewits or Talas. But they do need a lot of work to get them very sharp, which is essential. For years I only used an English style paring knife and spokeshave. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding I have a French skiving knife, it doesn’t work well on soft leather unfortunately. Thanks for your fast reply
@@MaryvandenBoogaard It sounds like your leather may be chrome tanned. Soft stretchy leather is difficult to pare using any method. I'm not sure the Scharffix would be any more successful. Good luck! DAS
Can this be done using a knife instead of machine? If yes, do you got any vids on that?
Yes. You can see from the options at Talas how varied knife paring is
www.talasonline.com/Paring-Knives
I do show paring in some of the leather videos, but don't go into a lot of detail. It something very diificult to explain. Johnson says paring is simple, all you need is a sharp knife and confidence. Both of these are harder to achieve than you might expect. Arthur Green has a good YT video on this. DAS
Great video! I'm also locate in Australia, could you please tell me where I could acquire this machine from? I only found some US website for this so far
Schärffix can be bought from many places, including the manufacturer in Germany
www.schmedt24.de/en/youtube/leather-paring-with-schaerffix/2438/schaerffix-leather-paring-device
www.talasonline.com/Scharf-Fix-Paring-Machine
www.hewitonline.com/Scharf_Fix_Paring_Machine_and_Spare_Blades_p/tl-091.htm
bookbindingaustralia.com.au/product/sharf-fix-pairing-machine/
Tschuss, DAS
@@DASBookbinding oh! thanks! that first link works out so much cheaper
What was the name of the US distributer again? I couldnt quite make it out in the video?
Talas
www.talasonline.com/Scharf-Fix-Paring-Machine
All the best, DAS
DAS Bookbinding thank you
attempting to use this for book binding and I continue to just tear the leather, lol
Sorry to hear it. It is still a challenging machine to use. If the leather is actually tearing rather than say cutting through, then the blades aren't sharp enough. Not all razor blades are made equal. Japanese made Feather blades are extremely good, as well as Merkur. I shave most days with these razors, and these 2 brands are so much better than most others. It's obvious when you shave with them. Even then occasionally one side will be a bit duller than usual. It's obvious when shaving, and harder to tell when paring.
TY. I watched your video to get positioning and technique and put new blade in. I was successful for one paring and just finished my first bible rebind. The corners look horrible, however it was the first attempt. Thank you for your video!!
Please how much this machine in Egypt?
Sorry, don't know. DAS
Cuanto cuesta co la consigo
249EU from the maker in Germany. DAS
Ian from the united kingdom.
I have just acquired a scharf-fix your video is a great help learning to use it thank you.