Ive had a love and hate relationship with this engine for the better part of 11 years now. Same issues as everyone else seems to have with the carb/choke. Everything runs tip top and then boom. Theres that one day when it all falls apart. Just give me the old school manual choke back
I just got a used mower w/ the Kohler XT-7 and it runs great with the choke disconnected and left fully open. Only difference is a few pulls for initial cold starting and saves a lot of potential problems w/ all auto-choke systems
Wow! Lots of other videos out there wanted me to take a lot of things apart. This simple trick was my issue. Mine didnt feel like there was any resistance. But i did the WD-40 and lubricated it anyway. Worked like a charm! Thank you!! My mower was starting and then choking out. It was not opening all the way once the engine started. Amazing trick.
Mine starts great . . . when it's cold. The "Warm Start" is my problem. If I shut it down to move an obstacle or empty the bag, it won't start again until the engine cools all the way down. Then it'll start on the first pull. I think that I will try your linkage reversal, though. It couldn't hurt. Thanks for posting this video.
Yep!! I Have Jonsered with a xtx775 if you stop when the engine is hot it will not restart until it has cooled back down. It's a very half-baked design.
This video was spot on-thanks! My choke was sticking exactly as shown. However, after loosening it up, still no start. Spark plug replaced, fuel line is clear. Diaphragm appears to be in working order. Any ideas where to go next??
Thanks for the informative video Buck! I have a question though, what’s the purpose of the black diaphragm that is also connected to the choke valve? It seems to be vacuum actuated from the engine side of the carb after the throttle valve, but in my experience and in your video I see no function?
Thank you for this. I actually have a xt675-2034 kohler engine on a Toro. I took the air cleaner cover off and a spring was dangling. Because of your explanation and camera work I now know it is the choke linkage. I've played with the area where I thought it should go. In my case, the linkage doesn't seem to hook onto anything but rather just pushes in a plastic slot that opens the valve. The metal linkage hooks on one side but just moves back and forth in this slot with nothing holding it in place. Very mickey mouse if in fact I am right about my explanation. I haven't been able to find pictures or video of my linkage anywhere but your explanation has given me the confidence to try playing with it. I'm just afraid that my fix is borrowed time and it will fall out of place again in time. With all I've seen and learned, I would not be able to recommend a Toro mower. Thank you for your help.
Thanks for the note. I'm sure you can figure it out. The issue is not really with Toro, per se, but with Kohler. Some of the Toro mowers have Briggs & Stratton engines, for example. Your issue is really with the Kohler engine and its convoluted choke mechanism. Good luck.
ALWAYS HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THIS TYPE OF ENGINE, EXCEPT MINE WOULD NOT START DUE TO THE CARB CHOKE NOT CLOSING FOR COLD STARTS. NOW I KNOW WHAT CAUSES THE PROBLEM.
Darned well-done video! You filmed this in the perfect soft light to see detail without stuff being too dark or bright. The time-lapse was so well done, I couldn't see it even happening. During that part, you can really see why I feel tripods are VITAL for more professional-looking videos. Sure, handheld is needed sometimes, but generally getting a nice steady shot is far easier on the viewer. Again, superb job! Thanks so much! (Oh, forgot to mention that it is great to see a clean mower! I'm always anal about that when I do any repair, and it's never come back to bite me. If I don't clean it now, I'll get all the nastier the next time I try to make a repair).
just the video I needed.... clean this area on the carb at the beginning of each season of use and every 3 months and it will not happen.. encrusted old dry grass will keep it from opening fully and you get a rich fuel mixture and carbon fouled plugs... or closing properly and causing a hard or no start,
This was VERY helpful for me. I don't have a Kohler engine but I do have a Toro Super Recycler (20383). Until stumbling upon your video, I had no idea how the "Auto-Choke" worked. My linkages are different but you cleared up questions I've had. First ... I've been troubleshooting my failed starts and thought the choke was closer to the engine than the throttle. I think I may have a stuck/stiff or incorrectly setup linkage because my choke is wide open (though my mower was sitting in the sun most of the day) ... I've cleaned the carb at least 3 good times now but I don't have ANY corrosion, rust, or gum/gel in my carb, fuel line, or carburetor bowl. My float is not full of liquid; my bowl does not have a main jet in it. I'd about lost at this point but still poking around. Worst case, I'll just buy a whole new carburetor and pray.
@@Buckwsr That was it! After sittin' for more than a decade... Now it's purring like a kitten! Flushed the carb and freed up the sticking choke... Voila.... Your video was spot on!
Having the same issue. Thought maybe it was the auto choke mechanism that wasn’t working. I’ll get the carb cleaner out tomorrow and make sure the mechanism moves freely! Thanks for sharing!!!
@@HisWayHomestead Okay, you may want to take the carburetor down and clean it out thoroughly. Make sure you're getting good fuel flow from the gas tank to the carburetor bowl. It is also possible that your problem is not fuel related, but ignition. Try a new spark plug. I had a machine that ran fine when cold, but struggled and died when it warmed up. A new spark plug fixed it. That's a long shot, but it's easy and cheap to do it.
I’m less ignorant.Thank you. I do have revs going low to high to low to high to low... You get the picture. I don’t know enough about carburetors to determine if I need to take it apart further. Sure there is a video for it. Kohler 6.75 149 cc. Despite my issue, this is the best demo I’ve ever been able to see and understand in layman’s terms. So thanks. - Chris In Kalamazoo
Thanks for the note, Chris. A surging engine may require a thorough carburetor cleaning, or, as is sometimes easier, a carburetor replacement. Yes, there are plenty of videos out there on how to clean a carburetor. Good luck.
no freaking way, this is the same mower i have, i haven't looked at this yet due to how early it is (don't want the neighbors hating me) but now i'm pretty sure this is the issue
Very cool. My lawn mower won't even start and I'm was wondering if it might be related to the automatic choke. So they also have automatic throttles? The carburetor looks clean and changing the spark plugs didn't do anything. If I spray starter fluid in it runs for a few seconds.
If you mower only runs on starter fluid, I would say your problem is that you're not getting fuel flow through the carburetor. Possibly the main jet up through the middle is clogged. I would drop the bowl on the carburetor and make sure it's clean and that the main jet is free and clear. To run only a few seconds on starter fluid means you're not getting fuel. Good luck.
@@Buckwsr Thanks so much for your help. I couldn't figure out how to take my carburetor off because it has these arms attached to it for the automatic choke and throttle, but I did expose it the best I could and blast it all over with carb cleaner. That did the trick! Now it's working fine.
I bought a new wire choke piece and installed it. The choke is closed when trying to start the engine as you explained. My problem is the lawn mower will not start. I have taken the carburetor off and cleaned it out the best I could. One problem was I couldn’t get the jets out. I have an order in for a new carburetor. Any suggestions on why I can’t get it started. I have the Koehler 149cc engine.
Well, a dirty carburetor could be the culprit. Hard for me to say. Once you install the new carburetor, you should be good to go. If not, perhaps there is another problem you'll need to figure out. Remember the three essential: Fuel, Spark, Compression..... Good luck.
Good day from Ontario. I found mower with kohler motor & choke system like this. After watching different videos on this & watching yours Igot it going. Gave it to my brother, works great . He changed oil because it was black. Now he complaints that oil is black again. U cannot see smoke from exhaust. Is there adjustments on carb to change this. Thanks Very good video
Hi Don, There really are no adjustments on the carburetor. And if it's running fine with no smoke, there's no need to attempt it. Just change the oil again. You see, an oil change in any engine does not get out all the old oil. Most, but not all. So the new oil has mixed with the remains of the old oil and now appears dirty. Just change it again. Sometimes, when I get an engine that has never had an oil change, I give it the Double Oil Change Special: I change the oil, run the machine for 10-15 minutes, and then change it again. This is the best way to get rid of most of the old oil. Good job getting mower running again!
Just did one today, my first. What a contraption, Briggs figured this out decades ago with a much simpler system. This is a good example of where theory and practice part ways. Getting it all adjusted just right is difficult at best. The pulloff apparently can't win a tug of war with the spring, but neither can the spring. It's a balancing act that gets wrenched up as soon as dirt or goo plugs the tiny carb port, or a small hole forms in the diaphragm, or the blade has the tiniest amount of extra friction on the choke shaft. The system cannot self compensate for any of these, or a plethora of other, variances. The icing on the cake is that there are no documented procedures or specs (that I could find) to set the thermostat lever in the correct place. You did know that it comes off, right? Tinkering with this is a rabbit hole filled with frustration and time sinks. BTW, I won, I think. No way to tell until the outside temps reach into the 40s. Today was in the 90s and it wanted to choke the motor to the point that it couldn't gain enough RPM to activate the pull off enough to stop choking it so hard. Started on the first pull though. After a few hours of tinkering, I got it working. We'll see what if does in the morning though, after temps fall 20°. Lubricate the thermostat shaft's little plastic bushing and oil the choke shaft as other videos describe. It all needs to be very clean. You know, the perfect set of requirements and expectations for a lawnmower.
@@Buckwsr I just finished mowing my yard with the customer's mower. It ran fine, took a minute to warm up enough to pull the choke all the way off and get to full speed, but at least it starts on the first pull. And it starts when hot. That seems to be the big issues, so I'm going to call this a win and send it home for more neglect. The 25 year old Murray I have here also starts on the first pull, but you have to go the extra mile and push a primer bulb a couple of times. Otherwise bit might take two or, God forbid, three pulls. It's a champ. I spent so little time fixing it, that I gave it a new trueblue 5 rope and painted the engine, and air cleaner, covers. It looks like a restoration now, maybe I should start making videos. I have lots of interesting and colorful commentary when I'm doing battle with these things. I'd need a separate adult content channel for two stroke repairs, especially chainsaws.
@@Buckwsr it's back, like a recurring nightmare. I really hate this mower, I'm thinking of buying it from the customer because it runs fine, you just have to futz with it every time you want to now.
@@tonyfremont A guy just dropped off one of these mowers that he had trashpicked. I got it going easily enough, but the choke plate does not fully open, even when hot. So I'll play around with it a bit more. But it's not worth putting too much time into it....
Buck's Small Engine DIY - Your video does not include the real reason the choke opens. I am surprised you did not include it. There is a cone shaped piece with a diagram in it and a rod hooked to the choke. This part is called the "choke pull off." It is located to the upper right of the carburetor. There is a hose that runs from the carburetor up to this piece. When the engine starts, a vacuum is initiated in this hose. The vacuum pulls the diagram down. There is a rod hooked to the diagram. When the diaphragm is pulled down the rod pulls the choke open. So, the choke is initially opened by the choke pull off while the motor heats up. Once the motor heats up then the choke is held open by the device you described in your video. The video is inaccurate. However, the video is well done. Thanks for posting.
Buck that was a good video. I have the same engine on a Ariens mower. It would start OK, then after about 20 minutes start revving, slowing, revving, slowing for apparently no reason. There is a little rubber gasket if you look closely around the metal rod that is held in place by the metal bracket. Mine is kinda broken and doesn't stay in place. Could this be causing the erratic revving? The spring action seems to be smoother without the gasket. I've already taken the carburetor off and thoroughly cleaned it so this is frustrating the hell out of me. Pls. advise!
When mine did that (revving & slowing), it was the fuel tank cap not venting correctly, causing a vacuum in the tank. Loosened the gas cap and the surging would stop. Drilling a 1/32 hole just below the cap threads on the tank did the trick. (I've had this happen on several mowers before. My Honda HRX217 was really bad about it.)
You have in this video the small one inch shaft connecting thermal choke control with the control on top of the carburetor in the incorrect or reverse placement.
Yes, you are right about that. But it seemed to work better installed in reverse like I did, so I left it that way. For this automatic choke system everything needs to move smoothly and easily. That's the key.
@@Buckwsr someone took carb off and twisted the choke actuator clockwise while putting carb back on so it was pulling choke open cold and closing choke engine hot. Nothing wrong just put together wrong.
Hey I purchased a new auto choke and it doesn’t even pull choke closed all the the way and engine won’t start. It’s like the new choke assembly is defective.
In this video the position of the wire linkage from the bimetallic choke lever to the choke lever on the carburetor is reversed from that depicted in the XT service manual and other videos.
When I start mine, it takes several minutes to get up to speed but it runs very low power until then. Will barely cut the grass. When I first got the mower it didn't do that. I feel like something is stuck. Thoughts?
I have the same problem when I get my Kohler started it heats up n down n it feels I loose power my small wire broke off the choke but revs up n down then 10 min later it stalls. I wired a piece of wire so it makes contact, now its leaking gas out of my carburetor under screw I can't seem to stop leak, loosing lot of gas now what do I need another carburetor. Help please Duke. Thank you.
I have an auto choke with the same exact setup on a Kohler engine. My problem is I tested the spring in the spring is good on the thermostat but it doesn't always close all the way I wonder if I need to take apart that entire shaft of the choke butterfly and just really clean it out really good because like you said that spring is not very strong I would hate to buy a whole new thermostat just to have the same problem
I've got the same engine on a Lawn Boy. When I release the bar on the handle, it won't shut off. The fly wheel brake is making good contact, but it still won't shut off. Any thoughts?
In addition to the flywheel brake, releasing the control bar also serves to ground out the ignition coil and shut down the motor. Apparently that is not happening in your case. I have another video that explains and demonstrates this, though it is a different engine. The principle is still the same. You can check it out here: th-cam.com/video/a3tVL23J87s/w-d-xo.html
@@BuckwsrThank you. I understand how it works, but on this particular engine there is no wire that connects the flywheel brake to the coil. Instead, there is a little red box (like I see in the video we are commenting below) that has two wires coming from it. One connects to the coil and the other connects to a ground (just a screw). When you pull the brake bar, the arm that moves the flywheel brake pushes up a little level on the bottomside of that box. With this particular set up, when I release the brake bar, the engine does not cut. I even took the wire from the coil and connected it to the flywheel brake and it still didn't cut spark. Thoughts?
Awesome :-) Picked up one of these auto-chokes to open and close an exhaust vent cover for an outdoor lpg shower heater I set up to to keep my small fountain/pond from turning into an ice skating rink. I was wondering just how far the linkage turned, how fast it turned and which direction :-) Exactly the info I was looking for :-D Thanks for the great upload!
Thank you! Excellent camera work and editing! Would you suggest WD 40 as a lubricant? I have a Lawn Boy mower with this motor and I really like it outside of this problem. I see a bungee cord in my future to keep that choke open once she warms up!
You could use WD-40, but that might attract dust and dirt and cause the system to malfunction. If the auto choke is working correctly, you won't need a bungee cord to hold the choke plate open, because that is what the auto choke is supposed to do... Thanks for watching and commenting.
I pulled the air cleaner assembly and found pine needles packed around the top of the carb interfering with the choke linkage. I cleaned it all up and it worked beautiful. Thanks again, without this video I don't know if I would have checked that.
Hi, Great Video. I replaced the automatic choke, have a new carburetor, and a new spark plug. I ran it once after replacing the automatic choke and the carburetor. That was it. The valve seems to move freely. Have not checked the diaphragm. The lawn mower WILL NOT SART. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Are you certain the choke plate is fully closed when the engine is cold? If not, maybe have someone manually hold the choke plate closed while you pull the starter cord. But there could be other issues. Is it getting spark? Use a spark tester to verify. Good luck.
Are you asking about the black hose that connects to the black air filter housing? Is this "diaphragm"? If so, this caries the oil fumes to burn in the engine.
Nobody really ever talks about that black diaphragm looking thing that has a tube connecting to the other side of the carburetor that also connects to that choke butterfly is there a way that I can test that and what does it do because it has some role in that choke system maybe I have something wrong with that part
Thanks for the note. Like you, I am unsure about that black diaphragm apparatus you mentioned. Surely it seems like it must be some kind of choke control. Based on the looks of the linkage...it appears that it might have the ability to open the choke plate, but not necessarily close it.... Let me know if you find any info on that....
Buckwsr thanx for the reply...yes I found out it is supposed to use the vacuum from engine to keep the choke open...im having the opposite issue so my issue is with the choke closing....i think the spring is so weak like you mentioned cleaning it is super important....i have the linkage on wrong I'm going to change that and clean the hell out of the shaft and if that doesn't do it I will spend the $20 on the thermostat
You can suck on the hose and see if it operates. You might want to use a miteyvac to measure hiw much vacuum it takes to open, and if the diaphragm leaks. I'm having an issue with one of these right now. When the engine starts, it runs too rich while waiting for the muffler heat to open the blade. I believe the diaphragm should be pulling it open as soon as it starts, overriding the spring rod.
It's a vacuum pull off that should be opening the choke as soon as the engine starts, I believe. There's an extremely tiny hole in the carburetor throat that runs to the nipple the hose is plugged to. It seems to stop up easily.
mine runs okay after the initial start. after I stop the engine to empty the bag, I can’t get it re-started. when I pull off the air filter housing, the choke plate is wide open. If I push the choke plate closed with my finger and my wife pulls the cord, I can get it started. Otherwise, I got to wait an hour or so. that thermal lever seems to be working as it should. any other suggestions?
No suggestions, really. Maybe a thorough carburetor cleaning. some people opt to rig up a manual choke, but that sounds like more trouble than it's worth. Be nice to your wife so she stays willing to help you when you need it.
I have a 6yr old Toro with a similar set up. After 45 minutes of mowing the engine sputters and dies. And won't restart. Plenty of gas, air filter clean. No spark getting to the plug. 1/2 hour later it starts right up and runs for another 45 min. sputters and dies. Coil AND choke thermo bad?????
@@Buckwsr thank you buck. that's what i was thinking about. i took it apart, cleaned, lubricated. there was a lot of dust outside. tooth brush, compressed air, old spray bottle with bbq starter. some wd40 on the choke valve. took apart and cleaned the diaphragm too... i dont know what i did, but now starts with a single pull. anyway, these engines need some cleaning sometimes. they are air cooled, and if there is dust on the aluminum ribs is a problem.
L Bergman I'm trying to remember....there are two screws which require a torx bit that secures a metal bracket that is part of the choke assembly. Remove them. Also, the black plastic lever can slide off that rod that runs over from the muffler area.
I took the plastic top off. I removed the top 10mm nut off of the spring housing holding it down to the muffler. I loosened the lower 10mm nut as the spring housing tab is slotted. I then removed the entire spring housing from the muffler. I also removed the two T20 screws on the carburator that hold the spring rod and black lever. That allowed me to turn, twist and move that black lever all around and get that short little link all hooked up correctly. I slid the spring housing back onto the top of the muffler, reinstalled the two T20 screws and tightened down the 2 10mm nuts on the muffler. No big strain.
What do you mean by "put it up"? The most likely cause of fuel leaking from the carburetor is that the needle is not seating properly to cut off the flow of fuel into the carburetor. Could be some debris keeping it from seating properly.
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Kind of a bad design. It won't go back if the engine stops but is fully warmed up yet but still needs to be choked. It will not restart until the muffler cools back down
I bet that crappy plastic fuel shut off- mounted upside down leaks like crazy. Spend a few bucks, buy a metal shut off, these cheap plastic one fail all the time , especially if it mounted like this
LOL. Keep it clean and moving smoothly, and you'll be fine. A mower with one of these same engines was just dropped off for me to look at. I'm looking forward to it!
Ive had a love and hate relationship with this engine for the better part of 11 years now. Same issues as everyone else seems to have with the carb/choke. Everything runs tip top and then boom. Theres that one day when it all falls apart. Just give me the old school manual choke back
I just got a used mower w/ the Kohler XT-7 and it runs great with the choke disconnected and left fully open. Only difference is a few pulls for initial cold starting and saves a lot of potential problems w/ all auto-choke systems
Wow! Lots of other videos out there wanted me to take a lot of things apart. This simple trick was my issue. Mine didnt feel like there was any resistance. But i did the WD-40 and lubricated it anyway. Worked like a charm! Thank you!!
My mower was starting and then choking out. It was not opening all the way once the engine started. Amazing trick.
Mine starts great . . . when it's cold. The "Warm Start" is my problem. If I shut it down to move an obstacle or empty the bag, it won't start again until the engine cools all the way down. Then it'll start on the first pull. I think that I will try your linkage reversal, though. It couldn't hurt. Thanks for posting this video.
Yep!! I Have Jonsered with a xtx775 if you stop when the engine is hot it will not restart until it has cooled back down. It's a very half-baked design.
This video was spot on-thanks! My choke was sticking exactly as shown. However, after loosening it up, still no start. Spark plug replaced, fuel line is clear. Diaphragm appears to be in working order. Any ideas where to go next??
Excellent video. That was my exact problem. Choke was all gummed up and would not, in my case, close. Thanks for the info. I was able to fix my 6021P!
Great explanation and demo. This engine is built to last but like ALL things "man-made" it requires maintenance
Thanks for the informative video Buck!
I have a question though, what’s the purpose of the black diaphragm that is also connected to the choke valve? It seems to be vacuum actuated from the engine side of the carb after the throttle valve, but in my experience and in your video I see no function?
Thank you for this. I actually have a xt675-2034 kohler engine on a Toro. I took the air cleaner cover off and a spring was dangling. Because of your explanation and camera work I now know it is the choke linkage. I've played with the area where I thought it should go. In my case, the linkage doesn't seem to hook onto anything but rather just pushes in a plastic slot that opens the valve. The metal linkage hooks on one side but just moves back and forth in this slot with nothing holding it in place. Very mickey mouse if in fact I am right about my explanation. I haven't been able to find pictures or video of my linkage anywhere but your explanation has given me the confidence to try playing with it. I'm just afraid that my fix is borrowed time and it will fall out of place again in time. With all I've seen and learned, I would not be able to recommend a Toro mower. Thank you for your help.
Thanks for the note. I'm sure you can figure it out. The issue is not really with Toro, per se, but with Kohler. Some of the Toro mowers have Briggs & Stratton engines, for example. Your issue is really with the Kohler engine and its convoluted choke mechanism. Good luck.
ALWAYS HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THIS TYPE OF ENGINE, EXCEPT MINE WOULD NOT START DUE TO THE CARB CHOKE NOT CLOSING FOR COLD STARTS. NOW I KNOW WHAT CAUSES THE PROBLEM.
Thanks for watching the video!
Wow. I thought I'd fixed my carb, but then it started doing exactly this. Now I know the problem, it's an easy fix. I think you saved me about $50.
Darned well-done video! You filmed this in the perfect soft light to see detail without stuff being too dark or bright. The time-lapse was so well done, I couldn't see it even happening. During that part, you can really see why I feel tripods are VITAL for more professional-looking videos. Sure, handheld is needed sometimes, but generally getting a nice steady shot is far easier on the viewer.
Again, superb job! Thanks so much! (Oh, forgot to mention that it is great to see a clean mower! I'm always anal about that when I do any repair, and it's never come back to bite me. If I don't clean it now, I'll get all the nastier the next time I try to make a repair).
Thanks for the note and kind words.
The vacuum choke brake is bad usually not the linkage
just the video I needed.... clean this area on the carb at the beginning of each season of use and every 3 months and it will not happen.. encrusted old dry grass will keep it from opening fully and you get a rich fuel mixture and carbon fouled plugs... or closing properly and causing a hard or no start,
This was VERY helpful for me. I don't have a Kohler engine but I do have a Toro Super Recycler (20383). Until stumbling upon your video, I had no idea how the "Auto-Choke" worked. My linkages are different but you cleared up questions I've had. First ... I've been troubleshooting my failed starts and thought the choke was closer to the engine than the throttle. I think I may have a stuck/stiff or incorrectly setup linkage because my choke is wide open (though my mower was sitting in the sun most of the day) ... I've cleaned the carb at least 3 good times now but I don't have ANY corrosion, rust, or gum/gel in my carb, fuel line, or carburetor bowl. My float is not full of liquid; my bowl does not have a main jet in it. I'd about lost at this point but still poking around.
Worst case, I'll just buy a whole new carburetor and pray.
Great demonstration Buck.. Thanks a lot. I've got to delve into one that has set up a long long time.
Thank you, and good luck with your mower!
@@Buckwsr That was it! After sittin' for more than a decade... Now it's purring like a kitten! Flushed the carb and freed up the sticking choke... Voila.... Your video was spot on!
Having the same issue. Thought maybe it was the auto choke mechanism that wasn’t working. I’ll get the carb cleaner out tomorrow and make sure the mechanism moves freely! Thanks for sharing!!!
Hope you get it all figured out! Good luck!
@@Buckwsr it still shuts off when it gets hot…. I can tweak the control arm for the carb and can kinda keep it running…. I’m not sure what it can be
@@HisWayHomestead Do you know for sure that the choke plate is opening fully?
@@Buckwsr if you are talking about the little flapper that moves inside the carb, then, yes, it opens up fully.
@@HisWayHomestead Okay, you may want to take the carburetor down and clean it out thoroughly. Make sure you're getting good fuel flow from the gas tank to the carburetor bowl. It is also possible that your problem is not fuel related, but ignition. Try a new spark plug. I had a machine that ran fine when cold, but struggled and died when it warmed up. A new spark plug fixed it. That's a long shot, but it's easy and cheap to do it.
Thank You. Mine is fluctuating so I suspect it's that part. Your video was a big help.
I’m less ignorant.Thank you. I do have revs going low to high to low to high to low... You get the picture. I don’t know enough about carburetors to determine if I need to take it apart further. Sure there is a video for it. Kohler 6.75 149 cc. Despite my issue, this is the best demo I’ve ever been able to see and understand in layman’s terms. So thanks. - Chris In Kalamazoo
Thanks for the note, Chris. A surging engine may require a thorough carburetor cleaning, or, as is sometimes easier, a carburetor replacement. Yes, there are plenty of videos out there on how to clean a carburetor. Good luck.
These videos are educational. My mowers are always taking turns not starting.
Well, that's better than them all breaking down at the same time....
Good advice,Buck. Got to get into springs on carb. Not many but troublesome
Nice video Buck. I could never find an explanation on how this system worked.
Thank you. Glad the video helped.
I see you fixing that cut off valve tightness great vid and job!
Thank you, Sir
Thanks for this video. Just bought a used lawn-boy with this motor in it.
Buckwsr : THANK YOU SIR . I WILL CHECK IT OUT AS I REPAIR FRIENDS MOWER WONT START PROBLEMS . BEST BLESSINGS TO YOU .
Great video.. it's amazing you have thumbs .Guess they don't have tools. Thank you..
Thank you for the very clear explanation of the Auto Choke feature Buckwsr
Thank you! Solved my problem. I never would have figured this out on my own.
no freaking way, this is the same mower i have, i haven't looked at this yet due to how early it is (don't want the neighbors hating me) but now i'm pretty sure this is the issue
Cool. Hope everything worked out for you.....
Good tip! I miss the days of manual chokes & throttle cables . Too much engineering for a simple system. : > (
Thanks for the comment, Joe, and for watching the video. It's not a complicated system, but a bit temperamental....
Very cool. My lawn mower won't even start and I'm was wondering if it might be related to the automatic choke. So they also have automatic throttles? The carburetor looks clean and changing the spark plugs didn't do anything. If I spray starter fluid in it runs for a few seconds.
If you mower only runs on starter fluid, I would say your problem is that you're not getting fuel flow through the carburetor. Possibly the main jet up through the middle is clogged. I would drop the bowl on the carburetor and make sure it's clean and that the main jet is free and clear. To run only a few seconds on starter fluid means you're not getting fuel. Good luck.
@@Buckwsr Thanks so much!
@@Buckwsr Thanks so much for your help. I couldn't figure out how to take my carburetor off because it has these arms attached to it for the automatic choke and throttle, but I did expose it the best I could and blast it all over with carb cleaner. That did the trick! Now it's working fine.
@@mitchjohnson4714 Good job!
I bought a new wire choke piece and installed it. The choke is closed when trying to start the engine as you explained. My problem is the lawn mower will not start. I have taken the carburetor off and cleaned it out the best I could. One problem was I couldn’t get the jets out. I have an order in for a new carburetor. Any suggestions on why I can’t get it started. I have the Koehler 149cc engine.
Well, a dirty carburetor could be the culprit. Hard for me to say. Once you install the new carburetor, you should be good to go. If not, perhaps there is another problem you'll need to figure out. Remember the three essential: Fuel, Spark, Compression..... Good luck.
Did you install an inline fuel filter? If you did, which one did you use and where do I get it from? Great video, thank you sir!
I did not install a fuel filter, but rather, an inline fuel shut off valve. Easily available on Amazon or EBay.
thanks. i think that is the issue. the linkage had fallen off and i didn't put it back on correctly
Most importantly, keep it all clean so it moves freely.
Good day from Ontario. I found mower with kohler motor & choke system like this. After watching different videos on this & watching yours Igot it going.
Gave it to my brother, works great . He changed oil because it was black.
Now he complaints that oil is black again. U cannot see smoke from exhaust. Is there adjustments on carb to change this. Thanks Very good video
Hi Don, There really are no adjustments on the carburetor. And if it's running fine with no smoke, there's no need to attempt it. Just change the oil again. You see, an oil change in any engine does not get out all the old oil. Most, but not all. So the new oil has mixed with the remains of the old oil and now appears dirty. Just change it again. Sometimes, when I get an engine that has never had an oil change, I give it the Double Oil Change Special: I change the oil, run the machine for 10-15 minutes, and then change it again. This is the best way to get rid of most of the old oil. Good job getting mower running again!
@@Buckwsr Thanks good information
Just did one today, my first. What a contraption, Briggs figured this out decades ago with a much simpler system. This is a good example of where theory and practice part ways. Getting it all adjusted just right is difficult at best. The pulloff apparently can't win a tug of war with the spring, but neither can the spring. It's a balancing act that gets wrenched up as soon as dirt or goo plugs the tiny carb port, or a small hole forms in the diaphragm, or the blade has the tiniest amount of extra friction on the choke shaft. The system cannot self compensate for any of these, or a plethora of other, variances. The icing on the cake is that there are no documented procedures or specs (that I could find) to set the thermostat lever in the correct place. You did know that it comes off, right? Tinkering with this is a rabbit hole filled with frustration and time sinks. BTW, I won, I think. No way to tell until the outside temps reach into the 40s. Today was in the 90s and it wanted to choke the motor to the point that it couldn't gain enough RPM to activate the pull off enough to stop choking it so hard. Started on the first pull though. After a few hours of tinkering, I got it working. We'll see what if does in the morning though, after temps fall 20°. Lubricate the thermostat shaft's little plastic bushing and oil the choke shaft as other videos describe. It all needs to be very clean. You know, the perfect set of requirements and expectations for a lawnmower.
Thank you for your note. I was entertained listening to your detailed thoughts on this engine and auto-choke system. I wish you good luck with yours!
@@Buckwsr I just finished mowing my yard with the customer's mower. It ran fine, took a minute to warm up enough to pull the choke all the way off and get to full speed, but at least it starts on the first pull. And it starts when hot. That seems to be the big issues, so I'm going to call this a win and send it home for more neglect. The 25 year old Murray I have here also starts on the first pull, but you have to go the extra mile and push a primer bulb a couple of times. Otherwise bit might take two or, God forbid, three pulls. It's a champ. I spent so little time fixing it, that I gave it a new trueblue 5 rope and painted the engine, and air cleaner, covers. It looks like a restoration now, maybe I should start making videos. I have lots of interesting and colorful commentary when I'm doing battle with these things. I'd need a separate adult content channel for two stroke repairs, especially chainsaws.
@@Buckwsr it's back, like a recurring nightmare. I really hate this mower, I'm thinking of buying it from the customer because it runs fine, you just have to futz with it every time you want to now.
@@tonyfremont A guy just dropped off one of these mowers that he had trashpicked. I got it going easily enough, but the choke plate does not fully open, even when hot. So I'll play around with it a bit more. But it's not worth putting too much time into it....
Regarding my last inquiry I was thinking of the motor was turning in the opposite direction
There's just no way for me to comment or advise you based on the little information you've given to me.....
Entertaining voice and knowledge power for laymen. Thanks
Buck's Small Engine DIY - Your video does not include the real reason the choke opens. I am surprised you did not include it. There is a cone shaped piece with a diagram in it and a rod hooked to the choke. This part is called the "choke pull off." It is located to the upper right of the carburetor. There is a hose that runs from the carburetor up to this piece. When the engine starts, a vacuum is initiated in this hose. The vacuum pulls the diagram down. There is a rod hooked to the diagram. When the diaphragm is pulled down the rod pulls the choke open. So, the choke is initially opened by the choke pull off while the motor heats up. Once the motor heats up then the choke is held open by the device you described in your video. The video is inaccurate. However, the video is well done. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the additional info!
Thanks for posting this. It helps greatly.
Thank you, JR!
Gracias, I got the same problems thanks regards from Spain
Thank you. I hope you get your mower running well! Thanks for watching and commenting.
"man You are awesome!!! great looking out for the little guy"3thumbeup😊
Thanks for the video. Just solved my problem
Good explaining, mine got that primer bulb. Have a great day.
Good video. I think I would look at installing a cable to operate manually
Yeah. The more automated things become, the more things there are to go wrong.
Hi , thanks for your video , and I think this automatic shock got at Subaru engine too .
Buck that was a good video. I have the same engine on a Ariens mower. It would start OK, then after about 20 minutes start revving, slowing, revving, slowing for apparently no reason. There is a little rubber gasket if you look closely around the metal rod that is held in place by the metal bracket. Mine is kinda broken and doesn't stay in place. Could this be causing the erratic revving? The spring action seems to be smoother without the gasket. I've already taken the carburetor off and thoroughly cleaned it so this is frustrating the hell out of me. Pls. advise!
When mine did that (revving & slowing), it was the fuel tank cap not venting correctly, causing a vacuum in the tank. Loosened the gas cap and the surging would stop.
Drilling a 1/32 hole just below the cap threads on the tank did the trick. (I've had this happen on several mowers before. My Honda HRX217 was really bad about it.)
Excellent demonstration, thank u.
Your bar from the choke to the bi metalic lever is in backward but still working.
Yes. I think I tried it both ways, and felt this way was working better. I can't quite remember....
Enjoyed your video I replaced a motor on a snowblower and now forward is backwards
That takes true skill!!
You have in this video the small one inch shaft connecting thermal choke control with the control on top of the carburetor in the incorrect or reverse placement.
Yes, you are right about that. But it seemed to work better installed in reverse like I did, so I left it that way. For this automatic choke system everything needs to move smoothly and easily. That's the key.
@@Buckwsr it is going to fall off and then end up at another shop for repair telling that the previous guy was ignorant and sloppy.
@@facereader99 It will not fall off in a million years.
This is very helpful thanks. They should really just put a choke switch on it.
Yeah, stupid overly complicated systems...tell me about it!
@@Buckwsr someone took carb off and twisted the choke actuator clockwise while putting carb back on so it was pulling choke open cold and closing choke engine hot. Nothing wrong just put together wrong.
thanks for the quick video
Really well done vid. Thank you.
Hey I purchased a new auto choke and it doesn’t even pull choke closed all the the way and engine won’t start. It’s like the new choke assembly is defective.
Thank you for this helpful video
Excellent and very helpful video
Thank you so much
In this video the position of the wire linkage from the bimetallic choke lever to the choke lever on the carburetor is reversed from that depicted in the XT service manual and other videos.
Yes, I reversed it while experimenting on how to make the chokie function more smoothly. Turned out great, so I left it that way. Thanks for the note.
When I start mine, it takes several minutes to get up to speed but it runs very low power until then. Will barely cut the grass. When I first got the mower it didn't do that. I feel like something is stuck. Thoughts?
Please let me know if you find this answer. Same thing happening to me as well.
I recommend a thorough carburetor cleaning.
@@Buckwsr I installed a new carb. Same exact results with new carb. I will not let this mower beat me. LOL!!!!
I have the same problem when I get my Kohler started it heats up n down n it feels I loose power my small wire broke off the choke but revs up n down then 10 min later it stalls. I wired a piece of wire so it makes contact, now its leaking gas out of my carburetor under screw I can't seem to stop leak, loosing lot of gas now what do I need another carburetor. Help please Duke. Thank you.
Buck any suggestions
I have an auto choke with the same exact setup on a Kohler engine. My problem is I tested the spring in the spring is good on the thermostat but it doesn't always close all the way I wonder if I need to take apart that entire shaft of the choke butterfly and just really clean it out really good because like you said that spring is not very strong I would hate to buy a whole new thermostat just to have the same problem
Hey I have same issue but I purchased new auto choke assembly but it doesn’t work and pull back closing the choke. I’m thinking it’s a bad unit.
Very helpful, thanks !!!
@Buckwsr My Toro with same engine i bought with the linkage. Will that linkage help lower the rpm? its starts now with out it at full throttle.
Thanks for your help
I've got the same engine on a Lawn Boy. When I release the bar on the handle, it won't shut off. The fly wheel brake is making good contact, but it still won't shut off. Any thoughts?
In addition to the flywheel brake, releasing the control bar also serves to ground out the ignition coil and shut down the motor. Apparently that is not happening in your case. I have another video that explains and demonstrates this, though it is a different engine. The principle is still the same. You can check it out here: th-cam.com/video/a3tVL23J87s/w-d-xo.html
@@BuckwsrThank you. I understand how it works, but on this particular engine there is no wire that connects the flywheel brake to the coil. Instead, there is a little red box (like I see in the video we are commenting below) that has two wires coming from it. One connects to the coil and the other connects to a ground (just a screw). When you pull the brake bar, the arm that moves the flywheel brake pushes up a little level on the bottomside of that box.
With this particular set up, when I release the brake bar, the engine does not cut. I even took the wire from the coil and connected it to the flywheel brake and it still didn't cut spark. Thoughts?
Awesome :-) Picked up one of these auto-chokes to open and close an exhaust vent cover for an outdoor lpg shower heater I set up to to keep my small fountain/pond from turning into an ice skating rink. I was wondering just how far the linkage turned, how fast it turned and which direction :-) Exactly the info I was looking for :-D Thanks for the great upload!
Sounds like an amazingly creative project!
How were you able to reverse and hook up the choke linkage without breaking the plastic tabs? thanks
you have to unbolt brackets and maybe even the carburetor in order to have enough play so as to remove/install the linkages.
This is waaaay easier that a handlebar mounted lever.
Love that sarcasm! Gave me a chuckle.
Thank you! Excellent camera work and editing! Would you suggest WD 40 as a lubricant? I have a Lawn Boy mower with this motor and I really like it outside of this problem. I see a bungee cord in my future to keep that choke open once she warms up!
You could use WD-40, but that might attract dust and dirt and cause the system to malfunction. If the auto choke is working correctly, you won't need a bungee cord to hold the choke plate open, because that is what the auto choke is supposed to do... Thanks for watching and commenting.
I pulled the air cleaner assembly and found pine needles packed around the top of the carb interfering with the choke linkage. I cleaned it all up and it worked beautiful. Thanks again, without this video I don't know if I would have checked that.
wb6162 great job!
Looks like the vacuum diaphragm for the choke pull off isn't working.
Hi,
Great Video. I replaced the automatic choke, have a new carburetor, and a new spark plug. I ran it once after replacing the automatic choke and the carburetor. That was it. The valve seems to move freely. Have not checked the diaphragm. The lawn mower WILL NOT SART. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Are you certain the choke plate is fully closed when the engine is cold? If not, maybe have someone manually hold the choke plate closed while you pull the starter cord. But there could be other issues. Is it getting spark? Use a spark tester to verify. Good luck.
This is very helpful thanks for the vid
Enlightening information.
best video ever
Thank you so much. I got a chuckle out of your exuberance!
Hay una manguera color negro pequeña que va al diafragma, esa que funcion hace en ese carburador?
Are you asking about the black hose that connects to the black air filter housing? Is this "diaphragm"? If so, this caries the oil fumes to burn in the engine.
Nobody really ever talks about that black diaphragm looking thing that has a tube connecting to the other side of the carburetor that also connects to that choke butterfly is there a way that I can test that and what does it do because it has some role in that choke system maybe I have something wrong with that part
Thanks for the note. Like you, I am unsure about that black diaphragm apparatus you mentioned. Surely it seems like it must be some kind of choke control. Based on the looks of the linkage...it appears that it might have the ability to open the choke plate, but not necessarily close it.... Let me know if you find any info on that....
Buckwsr thanx for the reply...yes I found out it is supposed to use the vacuum from engine to keep the choke open...im having the opposite issue so my issue is with the choke closing....i think the spring is so weak like you mentioned cleaning it is super important....i have the linkage on wrong I'm going to change that and clean the hell out of the shaft and if that doesn't do it I will spend the $20 on the thermostat
Thanks for the info and good luck on your project!
hm i thought about that too. good question
You can suck on the hose and see if it operates. You might want to use a miteyvac to measure hiw much vacuum it takes to open, and if the diaphragm leaks. I'm having an issue with one of these right now. When the engine starts, it runs too rich while waiting for the muffler heat to open the blade. I believe the diaphragm should be pulling it open as soon as it starts, overriding the spring rod.
What does the black thing to the right of the choke linkage do. It looks like a diaphragm with a linkage piece connected to the choke linkage?
It's a vacuum pull off that should be opening the choke as soon as the engine starts, I believe. There's an extremely tiny hole in the carburetor throat that runs to the nipple the hose is plugged to. It seems to stop up easily.
mine runs okay after the initial start. after I stop the engine to empty the bag, I can’t get it re-started. when I pull off the air filter housing, the choke plate is wide open. If I push the choke plate closed with my finger and my wife pulls the cord, I can get it started. Otherwise, I got to wait an hour or so. that thermal lever seems to be working as it should. any other suggestions?
No suggestions, really. Maybe a thorough carburetor cleaning. some people opt to rig up a manual choke, but that sounds like more trouble than it's worth. Be nice to your wife so she stays willing to help you when you need it.
I had same problem. Removed fuel filter from tank and added red inline filter. This increased fuel flow and fixed my problem.
Здравствуйте свяжитесь пожалуйста со мной у меня проблемка с настройкой нв585 viking незаводится рычаги дросселя в закрытом положении
I have a 6yr old Toro with a similar set up. After 45 minutes of mowing the engine sputters and dies. And won't restart. Plenty of gas, air filter clean. No spark getting to the plug. 1/2 hour later it starts right up and runs for another 45 min. sputters and dies. Coil AND choke thermo bad?????
Replace ignition coil (magneto). Or, schedule your mowing in 45 minute increments!!!
can i ask the rotation of this engine when i look up above the fan. Thanks
Simply pull the starter rope to verify which direction the motor spins.
Have the opposite problem: it will not start, unless starter fluid or gas. Then runs OK. an idea?
Possibly the choke plate is stuck open. If the choke plate does not close fully, you will have a hard time starting a cold engine.
@@Buckwsr thank you buck. that's what i was thinking about. i took it apart, cleaned, lubricated. there was a lot of dust outside. tooth brush, compressed air, old spray bottle with bbq starter. some wd40 on the choke valve. took apart and cleaned the diaphragm too... i dont know what i did, but now starts with a single pull. anyway, these engines need some cleaning sometimes. they are air cooled, and if there is dust on the aluminum ribs is a problem.
@@west_park7993 Great job!
@@Buckwsr learning from the best!
Thanks 👍
Why not a regular choke system? Why this new contraption of sorts ?
I guess that's a question for the kohler people. Automation always seems to make things more complicated, doesn't it?
How do you undo or remove that S link from the choke to replace carbureator.. I cant figure it out for the life of me.. I hope you see this. :)
L Bergman I'm trying to remember....there are two screws which require a torx bit that secures a metal bracket that is part of the choke assembly. Remove them. Also, the black plastic lever can slide off that rod that runs over from the muffler area.
I took the plastic top off. I removed the top 10mm nut off of the spring housing holding it down to the muffler. I loosened the lower 10mm nut as the spring housing tab is slotted. I then removed the entire spring housing from the muffler. I also removed the two T20 screws on the carburator that hold the spring rod and black lever. That allowed me to turn, twist and move that black lever all around and get that short little link all hooked up correctly. I slid the spring housing back onto the top of the muffler, reinstalled the two T20 screws and tightened down the 2 10mm nuts on the muffler. No big strain.
You have the choke linkage on wrong.
Thank You
So you can't actually demonstrate what you did to the linkage?
4:59 you have your choke linkage hooked up backwards
Ah yes, so I did! Good observation. But my theory is...It's not backward if it works!
I have one it will run but when I put it up the gasoline will leak out what could be the problem
What do you mean by "put it up"? The most likely cause of fuel leaking from the carburetor is that the needle is not seating properly to cut off the flow of fuel into the carburetor. Could be some debris keeping it from seating properly.
@@Buckwsr in a shaid
I noticed, the choke rod is on backwards
Yes, I think it works fine either way. Thanks.
Magnific
that choke level pin is on backwards and wrong..i mean if it works, it works but its on backwards..thats probably your choke problem
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Thanks
Seems like nearly every Kohler has issues with the carb system. Doesn't seem to be very smart.
Kind of a bad design. It won't go back if the engine stops but is fully warmed up yet but still needs to be choked. It will not restart until the muffler cools back down
What do you do if the start handle cable doesn’t pull enough to engage the switch in order for spark plug to fire??
Put on a new cable.
I prefer a manual choke
the linkage is on backwards
yes, and I discovered it works better that way!
That linkage is put on wrong
Thank you for the note. It works well either way, as demonstrated in the video.
I bet that crappy plastic fuel shut off- mounted upside down leaks like crazy.
Spend a few bucks, buy a metal shut off, these cheap plastic one fail all the time , especially if it mounted like this
I call it the "dumb choke"
LOL. Keep it clean and moving smoothly, and you'll be fine. A mower with one of these same engines was just dropped off for me to look at. I'm looking forward to it!