That toggle switch just makes sense. Once you put it on, you start wondering how they left it off. Good job! Those Folgers cans are awesome, and they come with a bunch of good coffee in them!
My Lee 110v production pot leaks like a screen door on a submarine, but not a drop from my 240v 4-20 model. However, if you unplug it with a bunch of lead in it, it can stick open and run the whole load out. Believe me.
Can you completely remove the mold support tray? I don’t cast bullets, but cast fishing weights, jigheads, and other tackle. My molds are 3-4” tall, so a lot larger than most bullet molds. I’d either need to remove the support tray or drop it down as low as possible
I have one, after I purchased the NOE new mold guide its great. I have casted a couple thousand bullets with it and now mine drips but its ok. I like your idea of the switch but mine gets unplugged when I am not using it (I have a cart dedicated to casting that I roll out in front of the big door in the pole barn. Do you have some kind of ventilation in your room?
2 cycle oil works well but have you tried copper antisense grease ? It works even better ! Just wipe a little on and you'll see a great improvement over oil :) great video btw
I am getting a Mag 25 soon, that's why I viewed this video. Has anyone viewing this encountered zinc in their lead, and how does it appear on/in your bullets? I just acquired a quantity of 20-1 lead, pre-mixed, supposedly with clean lead and tin, no antimony. In a word, it's a disaster. A good 70% of bullets have dark, carbon-like pits. Never seen anything like it, ever. Actual pits. Also, even at only 700 degrees the bullets are all hazy, as if the pot is too hot. I'm casting the big Lyman 457125, 500 grains, very soft. Never had anything like this, casting swc .452, different 311 Lyman bullets, etc. I like the digital temp. control on this pot, that's really why I'm getting it. Both for precision and also to experiment on the effect on accuracy of different casting temperatures. Anybody have any comments, suggestions? I just never had these problems casting 30 cal. bullets with a 10-pound Lyman pot and using linotype metal from a defunct newspaper(Hint: it's too hard as is). Thanks.
Is there any way you can tell me how you added that toggle switch? I don't know much about electrical stuff and wiring, and I wouldn't want to screw it up. Is it a special kind of switch, and how did you wire and install it? I'd appreciate it a ton if you could show and explain that.
honestly bud ask an electrician to help you if you can't figure it out. messing with electrical circuitry can be nasty business if you go in without some experience. the wire you need to break is the red (hot) wire on the power input for DC voltage or the black leg of the 120VAC input before the power supply coming from the wall. If you're putting a switch on the DC power side, You'll need an appropriate amperage rated switch rated for the Max output wattage of the unit plus about 30 percent for surge when the power supply turns on. you'll also want to make sure the switch is rated for 100 percent duty cycle at the intended max load and possibly put a fuse in line before the switch if there isn't one already. In reality, a continuous duty relay controlled by a low voltage switch would be the ideal way to wore something like this. If any of this sounds confusing, please do more research or talk to a local electrical before attempting to wire anything. Trust me, it's worth the little bit of money to have a professional do it if you aren't 100% confident.
But the fan only blows on the cool side of the unit where the electrical stuff is. I know that some of the components associated with the PID controller can get moderately warm, but come on. Many of us built PID controllers in stand alone metal enclosures following Johnny's Reloading bench, and they work fine switching them off when done casting. It just seems very much overkill for Lyman not to include a simple rocker or toggle switch. (Unless the divider and insulation is compromised, or not working for some other reason.) Only then I could understand having to wait for cooling and letting a fan run for 20 minutes.
5 years ago, wow. Very good video. So far these days found one for 339 online. Thanks.
That toggle switch just makes sense. Once you put it on, you start wondering how they left it off. Good job!
Those Folgers cans are awesome, and they come with a bunch of good coffee in them!
Loads of Bacon
It was definately needed. The bacon quench pot is all you!
My Lee 110v production pot leaks like a screen door on a submarine, but not a drop from my 240v 4-20 model. However, if you unplug it with a bunch of lead in it, it can stick open and run the whole load out. Believe me.
Can you completely remove the mold support tray? I don’t cast bullets, but cast fishing weights, jigheads, and other tackle. My molds are 3-4” tall, so a lot larger than most bullet molds. I’d either need to remove the support tray or drop it down as low as possible
NOE make a guide try to fit the different molds. Excellent video.
I have one, after I purchased the NOE new mold guide its great. I have casted a couple thousand bullets with it and now mine drips but its ok. I like your idea of the switch but mine gets unplugged when I am not using it (I have a cart dedicated to casting that I roll out in front of the big door in the pole barn.
Do you have some kind of ventilation in your room?
Hi I’m looking at buying that furnace and I like the switch idea just wondering if you can post pics of interior wiring please
I am sorry but that unit is packed and in storage until we get the new shop built
I do not have any photos of the interior wiring
Good work, Sir. I might have to save a while for one of those!
2 cycle oil works well but have you tried copper antisense grease ? It works even better ! Just wipe a little on and you'll see a great improvement over oil :) great video btw
Antiseize sorry
how does it handle the fumes coming from the lead?
I am getting a Mag 25 soon, that's why I viewed this video. Has anyone viewing this encountered zinc in their lead, and how does it appear on/in your bullets? I just acquired a quantity of 20-1 lead, pre-mixed, supposedly with clean lead and tin, no antimony. In a word, it's a disaster. A good 70% of bullets have dark, carbon-like pits. Never seen anything like it, ever. Actual pits. Also, even at only 700 degrees the bullets are all hazy, as if the pot is too hot. I'm casting the big Lyman 457125, 500 grains, very soft. Never had anything like this, casting swc .452, different 311 Lyman bullets, etc. I like the digital temp. control on this pot, that's really why I'm getting it. Both for precision and also to experiment on the effect on accuracy of different casting temperatures. Anybody have any comments, suggestions? I just never had these problems casting 30 cal. bullets with a 10-pound Lyman pot and using linotype metal from a defunct newspaper(Hint: it's too hard as is). Thanks.
How is this for making fishing jigs? The moulds are very different i see.
Is there any way you can tell me how you added that toggle switch? I don't know much about electrical stuff and wiring, and I wouldn't want to screw it up. Is it a special kind of switch, and how did you wire and install it? I'd appreciate it a ton if you could show and explain that.
honestly bud ask an electrician to help you if you can't figure it out. messing with electrical circuitry can be nasty business if you go in without some experience.
the wire you need to break is the red (hot) wire on the power input for DC voltage or the black leg of the 120VAC input before the power supply coming from the wall. If you're putting a switch on the DC power side, You'll need an appropriate amperage rated switch rated for the Max output wattage of the unit plus about 30 percent for surge when the power supply turns on. you'll also want to make sure the switch is rated for 100 percent duty cycle at the intended max load and possibly put a fuse in line before the switch if there isn't one already. In reality, a continuous duty relay controlled by a low voltage switch would be the ideal way to wore something like this. If any of this sounds confusing, please do more research or talk to a local electrical before attempting to wire anything. Trust me, it's worth the little bit of money to have a professional do it if you aren't 100% confident.
Hola amigo. Cuanto es el valor de esa olla .m gusto
Just hope you never need parts for it.
....bought 1
No "on/off" because you should reset the control to 0 and let it cool with the fan on.
But the fan only blows on the cool side of the unit where the electrical stuff is. I know that some of the components associated with the PID controller can get moderately warm, but come on. Many of us built PID controllers in stand alone metal enclosures following Johnny's Reloading bench, and they work fine switching them off when done casting. It just seems very much overkill for Lyman not to include a simple rocker or toggle switch. (Unless the divider and insulation is compromised, or not working for some other reason.) Only then I could understand having to wait for cooling and letting a fan run for 20 minutes.
@@PatriotPaulUSA Regardless, that is what RCBS says must be done.