P.S. Rosemary's Brushes are absolutely THE BEST! Even with shipping from the U.K., their prices beat anything else locally. Most importantly, their quality is unsurpassed!! When returning to Oil Painting after working in Corporate 30 years, I wanted to add to my brushes of years ago. I could not find any that were as good, companies changed, were bought out, etc. I kept buying and returning or giving away new purchases of brushes! Then a teacher specified Rosemary Brushes, and there is nothing like them. Plus they have a huge variety of brush bristles for every type of painting and within types, there are brushes for everything from detail work, lining, blending and much more. Their Catalogues are free and the best because they have life size photos of each and every brush along with detailed descriptions of each type, what it is best for, etc. Rosemary Brushes are addictive and literally make a difference in your painting! The only brushes I recommend and consider for Oil Painting, Watercolor and more.
So glad to hear that you have also discovered and love Rosemary brushes! They are absolutely the best. I second everything you say. And on top of it all I have found the people at the company to be quite incredible - I have really enjoyed them and their excellent customer service.
Hi Elizabeth, when it comes to cleaning my brushes I am very lazy. I have found that if I put some Murphy’s Oil Soap in the bottom of a mason jar I can let my brushes sit for a few days. There is a layer of fatty scum that forms at the top of the soap. When I do get around to clean my brushes I take them out of the jar and first wipe the scum off, I use blue shop paper towels. The next thing I do is rub the paint brush back and forth in the palm of my hand. As I do that I am running the brush under warm water. When I get ALL of the soap out I lay the brushes down on a blue shop towel to air dr dry in a flat position. I also have some Rosemary brushes they are very nice. The fact that they are handmade and very reasonably priced is awesome!!!
I can definitely relate when you say that you are lazy when it comes to cleaning brushes! It can be difficult to motivate oneself to do the task... 😆 Nice tip about the Murphys oil soap though and being able to let them sit in it. Blue shop towels are great to use! I used to use them, you mentioning them makes me want to get them again. Happy to hear that you also have Rosemary brushes - they really are quite reasonably priced!
PLAIN and SIMPLE: "Master's Brush Cleaner," it's non-toxic, cleans AND conditions brushes and comes in a covered small easy to transport container. It also removes hardened paint from brushes one may have forgotten to wash, and removes paint stains from clothing. It comes in as a cake in convenient container, as well as bar soap. WHILE STILL PAINTING: Wipe brushes with paper towel, then dip (don't swish) in Linseed Oil between colors while you're painting. Wipe brush again after dipping and put aside (or use for another color if still painting) - then final brush cleaning is a simple process CLEANING/CONDITIONING BRUSHES: Use a disposable container for water to wet, then swirl brush*** in Master's Brush Cleaner cake. It will slightly foam up and turn color - do not rinse off the colored soap as it does not affect cleaning of brushes in other colors - it still works as the soap. Rinse brush with water, shaping gently. Let dry bristles down but not touching a surface OR lay flat angled bristles downward. If brushes have hardened paint, OR have splayed bristles, simply reshape with the foamy Master's Brush Cleaner (from cake or bar) and LEAVE that on the brush overnight to harden. Rinse off the next day or two and your brush will be conditioned and reshaped. No need for Baby Oil. Do not let brushes sit in a jar as Elisabeth mentioned, because it will damage the bristles. Sometimes I also swirl brushes in some liquid DAWN dish soap, as well, since that also cleans oil. With Master's Brush Cleaner, the Baby Oil step is unnecessary, and since you have to be sure to rinse all of that Baby Oil out before painting again, it's just easier to avoid it all together. Linseed Oil (or M. Graham Walnut Oil) can be used as a quick brush cleaner when working off site, to prevent hardened brushes and it is compatible with the oil paint. (Wipe brush, dip in Linseed Oil, wipe again, repeat if necessary.) Also, DO NOT let brushes dry bristles up, as that allows moisture to go down into the ferrule and ultimately loosen the glue around the bristles. The best way to dry brushes is if you have a holder or system to allow them to hang from the handle end, bristles down BUT without touching a base. In lieu of that for drying, laying flat is better than bristles up. I try to angle the brushes with bristles downward when laying flat to prevent moisture from accumulating in the ferrule. ***ALERT: As for rubbing the paint brush on the palm of your hand, I used to do that too, DO NOT DO THAT since if you have Cadmium, Cobalt, Manganese or Flake (LEAD!!) White, etc. paints, you are exposing your system to these toxins through your skin. These pigments and some others, are HIGHLY TOXIC, although, they are otherwise harmless unless you eat your paint, no need for ventilation. Keep away from children and pets.
Thank you so much for your wonderful detailed tips! I have heard others sing praises of masters brush cleaner, and should try it out myself. Interesting about just dipping your brushes in linseed oil in lieu of rinsing them. And very good tip about not letting brushes dry up - this can be a very common thing to do as many place brushes in a jar etc. I used to rub my brushes in the palm of my had as all students at my art school did - until really understanding and realizing how bad this could be. Thank you for alerting others to that!
I make use of clips. The type with a metal bar and wire like handles you push together to open the clip. I bought a small tray from the dollar store, clipped these clips onto one side to make the tray slant a little. I put a paper towel on the tray and lay my cleaned brushes on it to dry. It would also be a good place to put just enough cleaner to soak brushes without getting into the feral. These clips come in different sizes. I also clip them on the bottom of my paint tubes so I can hang them on my pegboard. Hope you find this helpful. Gussie.
Oh my! Thats terribly expensive! It is most definitely far far cheaper here in the US. You could use a wood cleaner alternative that is similar. As Murphy's oil soap is technically a wood cleaner and works well for cleaning brushes as wood cleaners are meant to do a good job at getting rid of oil.
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P.S. Rosemary's Brushes are absolutely THE BEST! Even with shipping from the U.K., their prices beat anything else locally. Most importantly, their quality is unsurpassed!! When returning to Oil Painting after working in Corporate 30 years, I wanted to add to my brushes of years ago. I could not find any that were as good, companies changed, were bought out, etc. I kept buying and returning or giving away new purchases of brushes! Then a teacher specified Rosemary Brushes, and there is nothing like them. Plus they have a huge variety of brush bristles for every type of painting and within types, there are brushes for everything from detail work, lining, blending and much more. Their Catalogues are free and the best because they have life size photos of each and every brush along with detailed descriptions of each type, what it is best for, etc. Rosemary Brushes are addictive and literally make a difference in your painting! The only brushes I recommend and consider for Oil Painting, Watercolor and more.
So glad to hear that you have also discovered and love Rosemary brushes! They are absolutely the best. I second everything you say. And on top of it all I have found the people at the company to be quite incredible - I have really enjoyed them and their excellent customer service.
Thanks for this lesson.
You are so welcome!
Hi Elizabeth, when it comes to cleaning my brushes I am very lazy. I have found that if I put some Murphy’s Oil Soap in the bottom of a mason jar I can let my brushes sit for a few days. There is a layer of fatty scum that forms at the top of the soap. When I do get around to clean my brushes I take them out of the jar and first wipe the scum off, I use blue shop paper towels. The next thing I do is rub the paint brush back and forth in the palm of my hand. As I do that I am running the brush under warm water. When I get ALL of the soap out I lay the brushes down on a blue shop towel to air dr dry in a flat position. I also have some Rosemary brushes they are very nice. The fact that they are handmade and very reasonably priced is awesome!!!
I can definitely relate when you say that you are lazy when it comes to cleaning brushes! It can be difficult to motivate oneself to do the task... 😆 Nice tip about the Murphys oil soap though and being able to let them sit in it. Blue shop towels are great to use! I used to use them, you mentioning them makes me want to get them again. Happy to hear that you also have Rosemary brushes - they really are quite reasonably priced!
@@ArtStudioLife I forgot to mention that letting the brushes soak for a day or more removes about 95% of the paint from them.
PLAIN and SIMPLE: "Master's Brush Cleaner," it's non-toxic, cleans AND conditions brushes and comes in a covered small easy to transport container. It also removes hardened paint from brushes one may have forgotten to wash, and removes paint stains from clothing. It comes in as a cake in convenient container, as well as bar soap.
WHILE STILL PAINTING: Wipe brushes with paper towel, then dip (don't swish) in Linseed Oil between colors while you're painting. Wipe brush again after dipping and put aside (or use for another color if still painting) - then final brush cleaning is a simple process
CLEANING/CONDITIONING BRUSHES: Use a disposable container for water to wet, then swirl brush*** in Master's Brush Cleaner cake. It will slightly foam up and turn color - do not rinse off the colored soap as it does not affect cleaning of brushes in other colors - it still works as the soap. Rinse brush with water, shaping gently. Let dry bristles down but not touching a surface OR lay flat angled bristles downward.
If brushes have hardened paint, OR have splayed bristles, simply reshape with the foamy Master's Brush Cleaner (from cake or bar) and LEAVE that on the brush overnight to harden. Rinse off the next day or two and your brush will be conditioned and reshaped. No need for Baby Oil.
Do not let brushes sit in a jar as Elisabeth mentioned, because it will damage the bristles.
Sometimes I also swirl brushes in some liquid DAWN dish soap, as well, since that also cleans oil.
With Master's Brush Cleaner, the Baby Oil step is unnecessary, and since you have to be sure to rinse all of that Baby Oil out before painting again, it's just easier to avoid it all together. Linseed Oil (or M. Graham Walnut Oil) can be used as a quick brush cleaner when working off site, to prevent hardened brushes and it is compatible with the oil paint. (Wipe brush, dip in Linseed Oil, wipe again, repeat if necessary.)
Also, DO NOT let brushes dry bristles up, as that allows moisture to go down into the ferrule and ultimately loosen the glue around the bristles. The best way to dry brushes is if you have a holder or system to allow them to hang from the handle end, bristles down BUT without touching a base. In lieu of that for drying, laying flat is better than bristles up. I try to angle the brushes with bristles downward when laying flat to prevent moisture from accumulating in the ferrule.
***ALERT: As for rubbing the paint brush on the palm of your hand, I used to do that too, DO NOT DO THAT since if you have Cadmium, Cobalt, Manganese or Flake (LEAD!!) White, etc. paints, you are exposing your system to these toxins through your skin. These pigments and some others, are HIGHLY TOXIC, although, they are otherwise harmless unless you eat your paint, no need for ventilation. Keep away from children and pets.
Thank you so much for your wonderful detailed tips! I have heard others sing praises of masters brush cleaner, and should try it out myself. Interesting about just dipping your brushes in linseed oil in lieu of rinsing them. And very good tip about not letting brushes dry up - this can be a very common thing to do as many place brushes in a jar etc. I used to rub my brushes in the palm of my had as all students at my art school did - until really understanding and realizing how bad this could be. Thank you for alerting others to that!
Thank you Elisabeth. Another very helpful video
Thank you for your kind words, glad this is helpful
I make use of clips. The type with a metal bar and wire like handles you push together to open the clip. I bought a small tray from the dollar store, clipped these clips onto one side to make the tray slant a little. I put a paper towel on the tray and lay my cleaned brushes on it to dry. It would also be a good place to put just enough cleaner to soak brushes without getting into the feral. These clips come in different sizes. I also clip them on the bottom of my paint tubes so I can hang them on my pegboard. Hope you find this helpful. Gussie.
Thank you so much for sharing! This is a great idea.
Valuable information!! Thanks!
Very glad to pass on the lessons and information! :)
I have always used Murphy oil soap! It is so great
Happy to hear that, it really is such great soap for washing brushes! I also use it to clean any paint that may have gotten on the floor...🙈
Same I use it too
Murphys in the size you have is nearly £80, not that cheap. Never the less your method does really work. 😊
Oh my! Thats terribly expensive! It is most definitely far far cheaper here in the US. You could use a wood cleaner alternative that is similar. As Murphy's oil soap is technically a wood cleaner and works well for cleaning brushes as wood cleaners are meant to do a good job at getting rid of oil.
Thanks so much for this!!!!
You are so welcome! So glad this is helpful!