Joe, I hate you. No man needs 20+ multimeters. One or two good ones should do the job. Because of you my multimeter collecting became an obsession. I used to have beer money. Now I save my beer money for more meters. Love and hate are so closely linked. Oh hell, I love you man!
@@joesmith-je3tq I recent;y bought a full set of battery contacts for a 189 for about 12.00. Installed them on a 189 type back cover and tested fine. Cheaper quality than the originals but they work.
As you already said in the video, I just removed the ultacapacitor, one of my first Fluke 289 had a leaking ultacapacitor just after 3 years of use, so I just remove them from the 289 and the 189. The only downside is that you have to set the time and date after replacing the batteries. Upside is that I do not have to check for leaking ultacapacitors anymore.
I still have some early supercaps that we used back in the mid 80s. These were very reliable but used a different technology than the tablet that I mentioned that was damaged. The tablet was maybe three years old as well. I have not seen the parts I am using leak yet but it's early. I hope by derating them they will out live me.
I kept the ultracapacitor and cleaned it after removing it from the 289, it was a single cell ultracapacitor and some brown goo was exiting from the negative end, the laser etching on the ultracapacitor said 3N14 (it measures 6,78mm in diameter and the thickness is 1,73mm).
The 189s I have are all used. I really have no idea how they were used. They are a fairly old meter and I would expect them to have some problems after several years of service. Strange that Fluke would not have covered that under warranty on a 289. If they left me hanging like that on a three year old top of the line meter, I would do more than just remove the cap. Is there more to the story?? Did you buy it brand new? Was the meter really three years old or was that just how long you had owned it? If it was brand new and you are the original owner, why would you ever take a soldering iron to it? Did you try to have them warranty it and if so, what was the reason they would not cover it? Please fill in the blanks.
It was brand new (7 years ago), I did it myself because I did not want to wait for it to be repaired by Fluke, and I felt it was not a big deal to remove it, it gave me a peace of mind to not have it in there, eventually a new ultacapacitor can always begin to leak again and destroy the PCB, and really in the 189 with the C-Cell battery holder I would never install it again anyway. I have another (second hand) 189 and also removed the ultracapacitor, I already bought a second BP189 to attach to it, so it can work for many years as well. These Fluke 189 may be old meters, but they do work very good and I can use the Fluke ir-3000FC Bluetooth to log and see the screen remotely.
I picked up a BT interface from UNI-T but after I received it, I realized they had lied in their manual and have no support for the Windows OS. Then again, I don't know why I was expecting anything less from UNI-T. Good to hear it was not a warranty problem from Fluke. I was thinking that may have been a free NIST cal. On the reliability of the caps I am using, ask me again in 20 years if I am still alive and have the mental capacity to know what you are talking about.
Thanks for the part# on the super cap Joe. I looked for one after I purchased my 189 and could not find any. Finally found some on EBay last week. Came in today and installed it with no issues. 24 hour clock and logging memory is working great now. The old one was puking electrolyte. Didn’t make it onto the PCB so I lucked out on that one. That 189 and my BM869s are within a few mv in DC and a few milliohms in resistance of the Keithley 197 I just got recently. I’d say the 189 and the 869s are quite accurate hand held multimeters.
Borrowed a 189 a few months back and the batteries were dead. Owner said they had just installed a new set. Put a new set in, and the battery indicator came on shortly after. With permission, I pulled the cover and sure enough the cap was bad. Lucky it had not broke the seal yet but it was pretty much shorted. They didn't use the RTC so I just removed it. These meters are getting pretty old.
@@joesmith-je3tq Yes, they are getting old, too bad Fluke doesn't still make something similar. Great meter accuracy wise and feature wise. I've turned on a lot of people to the Brymen meter's They all seem to love them. People who are skeptical I send them to watch your channel. I belong to a lot of tube amp builders and repair pages on FB and other platforms and meters come up quite often. Recently a page moderator was promoting a meter I would not dare use on a 500v+ tube amp. Most of the members challenged him on his choice. A lot of members threw out the Fluke brand of course and quite a few mentioned Brymen including myself. Great bang for the buck and I feel confident probing 500v B+ in a tube amp with a Fluke or the Brymen thanks to all your thorough tests.
I will run up the free meters from HF to a KVDC from time to time but the current from my supplies is fairly low and they don't have a lot of stored energy in the filter stage. There is a big difference in say my home stereo tube amplifier and the local TV station. lol. I am comfortable working at several KV at home on the bench but shy away from a 440AC line in a factory. As always, the best tool will depend on the application.
I found a seller on eBay selling original profile supercaps for “Fluke Repairs”. The price is high, the capacitance seems the same as original, and they fit perfectly. The supercaps on both my 189s were slightly corroded and data was no longer saved during battery replacement, so I replaced the Caps. on both of them. All is well... The next day I removed the batteries and replaced them simulating a new battery Installation. Date, time, and saved data was preserved. Mission accomplished.
@@joesmith-je3tq Perfect Form-factor closed the deal. Do you know the actual mFs and voltage ratings on the original caps? Mine were too far gone to determine anything useful. The replacement caps measured about 20mF and are 3.3v rated. Their marking are "3.3v .20" If there's more, it's welded under the positive connection tab. I no longer have an LRC meter, so only my FLUKE 289 and my Mastech MS8040, with 100mf and 200mf respectively, have the range to measure the new caps. I'm totally lacking on detailed knowledge about designing with Super Caps so don't know if there's a trick to measuring them. I've got some slack time this week so am going to educate myself. I know you used 100mF / 5+v replacements but it requited mechanical mods to fit the solder pads. I wanted my two meters to look "original" when opened so went with the smaller form-factor devices, since I'm selling one of them. The only markings on the original S-Caps were a stylized "M" that has a "logo" appearance. One cap is marked 33 above an 11 all above above a lower case "f". The other has a "54" above "15" above a lower case "f". These markings are to the right of the "M" logo. The "-" sign is below the "M" inside a circle, presumably representing the negative post of the device. I'd say the markings are week and year, but the meters should be way older than 2011 or 2014.... 54 M 14 - f EDIT: I now understand measuring Super Capacitors requires charging them and timing their discharge via a specific resistive load. No big deal...
I got my 2 new supercaps and opened up the 189 to inspect for any leakage and found none at all. So I guess I have 2 spares for the future. When I first heard of this issue, I removed the batteries, hoping to prolong the life of the cap, since I don't use this meter to often.
Joe, my Fluke 189 is warning LEADS on all scales, but "A", I already removed the input jacks and cleaning, but still showing this warning. When I heat it, the warning stops, but return when cold. Any idea? Thanks.
Looks like you are having a similar symptom as this person. Maybe consider joining that thread and adding your findings. www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-189-multimeter-repair-advice-needed/msg4397968/#msg4397968
I get like anything, what's fair will depend on what people are willing to pay. eBay shows them around $200 to $300USD depending on their condition. At this price, I would rather have a brand new Brymen BM869s. There was one that sold last week for $113 but we have not seen any posts from the person who bought it yet.
Hi Joe, I accidentally connect a wrong polarity battery on my fluke 189, part adjacent to 336C P100K has burnt. W ould you be kind enough to tell me the part number of the burnt parts it is located just behind the contact point of the battery cell connector. Thank you in advance. and more power to your channel. If you need a photo please let me know how to send it to you.
Hi Joe, thanks for the vid. I just bought a used 189 and opened up the case to see if the supercap was OK. Turns out that the previous owner had replaced it already with the Panasonic supercap. I'll pop it open every few years to make sure it isn't leaking. The 189 is a very sweet meter.
What's the battery life like on the 189? I was able to lay my hands on a Fluke 87-IV (which is basically a 187), but the battery life of 70 hrs put me off. I'm happy with my Brymen 867 so far. Nice vid, as always!
I have a friend who had the 87 IV. He really liked that meter. It eventually died and he bought an 87 V thinking it would be an upgrade. Even to this day, he is not a happy person over that deal. lol They claim 72 hours typical with the backlight off when using Alkalines. I never measured the current draw. When my friend gave me that one Fluke 189, I installed new NiMH while I was going over it. Those batteries are still in the meter on their first charge. When I was making this video, I had some very old AAAs that came with the Anengs installed in dead meter that I was using to power it. It it not last very long on those! lol. I have fitted both Brymens with rechargeable lithium batteries. The first one I had installed one into is now on it's second charge.
just found your channel and i already love your videos but i had a question i own a fluke 189 and i think the supercap is starting to go bad so i wanted to replace it but if i do, do i risk losing the factory calibration or not ?
Not but depending on your skills, you could ruin the meter. I believe the parts I procured are no longer offered. Good luck and if you have any questions, feel free before doing anything with the meter.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thanks for the reply my soldering skills are not too bad so i don't think that would be a problem and i'm quite surprise that the calibration is not going to be affected by changing the super cap , i thought i would loose everything and would have to send the meter for calibration also i can't buy the panasonic cap that you've used in Switzerland so i'm gonna go with this one i think www.distrelec.ch/Web/Downloads/_t/ds/FC0H104ZFTBR24_eng_tds.pdf the size is pretty much similar to the one you've used but it's a different package
@@rickalison5718 Right, I do like the Brymen BM869s. Out of all the meters I have looked at, it's still my choice. Of course, that doesn't mean it's the right meter for you or anyone else. Fluke hasn't offered the 189 for several years. I like the 189 but I like a few features the BM869s offers that the 189 doesn't have. Two temperature sensor inputs for example....
@@rickalison5718 This message hit the spam filter due to the link. Many people will remove the cap and leave it out as they don't need the features. Calibration is checking the meter against a known standards. Alignment is adjusting the meter to bring it back into calibration. Changing the cap will have no effect on this.
Forgive me Joe, I'm a fluke addict... my vintage fluke 73 is 35 years old, and still working! Have the 189 also. You definitely recommend replacing those two resistors??? Also in the uk 👍🇬🇧
I didn't suggest anyone to change them during the video. For educational purposes, the video describes a particular test that a modern meter would be required to pass if it were to be certified and that I suspect that this meter could use a better part.
MKme lab has a youtube video where he also removes the ultracapacitor (at first sight he thinks it is a diode) from his Fluke 189. It seems that he had a parasitic power draw of around 200mA.
I watched this video quite a while back. I loved his humor about the engineer LOL! I've dealt with a few of those type guys in my years as a toolmaker/programmer. Most guys were on the nuggets with knowledge, a few I ran across were as clueless as they come working for a world wide manufacturer of fiber optics at that time in the late 90's. Amazing how some of these guys got their degree. @@joesmith-je3tq
Thanks again Joe, always love your DMM video's. @ 4 in the morning in the UK.
Using the video as a sleep aid? lol.
4 in the morning - Gwen Stefani is my favourite song
Interesting the originals are carbon comp resistors, wonder why they chose that?
Joe, I hate you. No man needs 20+ multimeters. One or two good ones should do the job. Because of you my multimeter collecting became an obsession. I used to have beer money. Now I save my beer money for more meters. Love and hate are so closely linked. Oh hell, I love you man!
The 189 function switch contacts are now available (out of China) on eBay. Can't say if they run as smooth, don't wear tracks excessively, etc.
Thanks for the post. That's potentially very good news.
@@joesmith-je3tq I recent;y bought a full set of battery contacts for a 189 for about 12.00. Installed them on a 189 type back cover and tested fine. Cheaper quality than the originals but they work.
As you already said in the video, I just removed the ultacapacitor, one of my first Fluke 289 had a leaking ultacapacitor just after 3 years of use, so I just remove them from the 289 and the 189.
The only downside is that you have to set the time and date after replacing the batteries.
Upside is that I do not have to check for leaking ultacapacitors anymore.
I still have some early supercaps that we used back in the mid 80s. These were very reliable but used a different technology than the tablet that I mentioned that was damaged. The tablet was maybe three years old as well. I have not seen the parts I am using leak yet but it's early. I hope by derating them they will out live me.
I kept the ultracapacitor and cleaned it after removing it from the 289, it was a single cell ultracapacitor and some brown goo was exiting from the negative end, the laser etching on the ultracapacitor said 3N14 (it measures 6,78mm in diameter and the thickness is 1,73mm).
The 189s I have are all used. I really have no idea how they were used. They are a fairly old meter and I would expect them to have some problems after several years of service.
Strange that Fluke would not have covered that under warranty on a 289. If they left me hanging like that on a three year old top of the line meter, I would do more than just remove the cap. Is there more to the story?? Did you buy it brand new? Was the meter really three years old or was that just how long you had owned it? If it was brand new and you are the original owner, why would you ever take a soldering iron to it? Did you try to have them warranty it and if so, what was the reason they would not cover it? Please fill in the blanks.
It was brand new (7 years ago), I did it myself because I did not want to wait for it to be repaired by Fluke, and I felt it was not a big deal to remove it, it gave me a peace of mind to not have it in there, eventually a new ultacapacitor can always begin to leak again and destroy the PCB, and really in the 189 with the C-Cell battery holder I would never install it again anyway. I have another (second hand) 189 and also removed the ultracapacitor, I already bought a second BP189 to attach to it, so it can work for many years as well. These Fluke 189 may be old meters, but they do work very good and I can use the Fluke ir-3000FC Bluetooth to log and see the screen remotely.
I picked up a BT interface from UNI-T but after I received it, I realized they had lied in their manual and have no support for the Windows OS. Then again, I don't know why I was expecting anything less from UNI-T.
Good to hear it was not a warranty problem from Fluke. I was thinking that may have been a free NIST cal. On the reliability of the caps I am using, ask me again in 20 years if I am still alive and have the mental capacity to know what you are talking about.
Thanks for the part# on the super cap Joe. I looked for one after I purchased my 189 and could not find any. Finally found some on EBay last week. Came in today and installed it with no issues. 24 hour clock and logging memory is working great now. The old one was puking electrolyte. Didn’t make it onto the PCB so I lucked out on that one. That 189 and my BM869s are within a few mv in DC and a few milliohms in resistance of the Keithley 197 I just got recently. I’d say the 189 and the 869s are quite accurate hand held multimeters.
Borrowed a 189 a few months back and the batteries were dead. Owner said they had just installed a new set. Put a new set in, and the battery indicator came on shortly after. With permission, I pulled the cover and sure enough the cap was bad. Lucky it had not broke the seal yet but it was pretty much shorted. They didn't use the RTC so I just removed it. These meters are getting pretty old.
@@joesmith-je3tq Yes, they are getting old, too bad Fluke doesn't still make something similar. Great meter accuracy wise and feature wise. I've turned on a lot of people to the Brymen meter's They all seem to love them. People who are skeptical I send them to watch your channel. I belong to a lot of tube amp builders and repair pages on FB and other platforms and meters come up quite often. Recently a page moderator was promoting a meter I would not dare use on a 500v+ tube amp. Most of the members challenged him on his choice. A lot of members threw out the Fluke brand of course and quite a few mentioned Brymen including myself. Great bang for the buck and I feel confident probing 500v B+ in a tube amp with a Fluke or the Brymen thanks to all your thorough tests.
I will run up the free meters from HF to a KVDC from time to time but the current from my supplies is fairly low and they don't have a lot of stored energy in the filter stage. There is a big difference in say my home stereo tube amplifier and the local TV station. lol. I am comfortable working at several KV at home on the bench but shy away from a 440AC line in a factory. As always, the best tool will depend on the application.
I found a seller on eBay selling original profile supercaps for “Fluke Repairs”. The price is high, the capacitance seems the same as original, and they fit perfectly. The supercaps on both my 189s were slightly corroded and data was no longer saved during battery replacement, so I replaced the Caps. on both of them. All is well... The next day I removed the batteries and replaced them simulating a new battery Installation. Date, time, and saved data was preserved. Mission accomplished.
Why would you go to some unknown eBay seller? I bought mine from Digi-Key.
@@joesmith-je3tq Perfect Form-factor closed the deal. Do you know the actual mFs and voltage ratings on the original caps? Mine were too far gone to determine anything useful. The replacement caps measured about 20mF and are 3.3v rated. Their marking are "3.3v .20" If there's more, it's welded under the positive connection tab.
I no longer have an LRC meter, so only my FLUKE 289 and my Mastech MS8040, with 100mf and 200mf respectively, have the range to measure the new caps. I'm totally lacking on detailed knowledge about designing with Super Caps so don't know if there's a trick to measuring them. I've got some slack time this week so am going to educate myself. I know you used 100mF / 5+v replacements but it requited mechanical mods to fit the solder pads. I wanted my two meters to look "original" when opened so went with the smaller form-factor devices, since I'm selling one of them. The only markings on the original S-Caps were a stylized "M" that has a "logo" appearance. One cap is marked 33 above an 11 all above above a lower case "f". The other has a "54" above "15" above a lower case "f". These markings are to the right of the "M" logo. The "-" sign is below the "M" inside a circle, presumably representing the negative post of the device. I'd say the markings are week and year, but the meters should be way older than 2011 or 2014....
54
M 14
- f
EDIT: I now understand measuring Super Capacitors requires charging them and timing their discharge via a specific resistive load. No big deal...
@@Tool-Meister I used 5V parts to try and give them a chance.
I got my 2 new supercaps and opened up the 189 to inspect for any leakage and found none at all. So I guess I have 2 spares for the future. When I first heard of this issue, I removed the batteries, hoping to prolong the life of the cap, since I don't use this meter to often.
Joe, my Fluke 189 is warning LEADS on all scales, but "A", I already removed the input jacks and cleaning, but still showing this warning. When I heat it, the warning stops, but return when cold. Any idea? Thanks.
Looks like you are having a similar symptom as this person. Maybe consider joining that thread and adding your findings.
www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-189-multimeter-repair-advice-needed/msg4397968/#msg4397968
What do you think is a fair price to pay for a good 2nd hand one of these?
I get like anything, what's fair will depend on what people are willing to pay. eBay shows them around $200 to $300USD depending on their condition. At this price, I would rather have a brand new Brymen BM869s. There was one that sold last week for $113 but we have not seen any posts from the person who bought it yet.
I bought a pristine 189 a few months back for $210. It looked as if it had never been used and is bang on with my Brymen BM 869S.
I have a very nice one with a new supercap on sale on eBay. Seller srjaynes49
Exelent video, tks 🎩
Hi Joe, I accidentally connect a wrong polarity battery on my fluke 189, part adjacent to 336C P100K has burnt. W ould you be kind enough to tell me the part number of the burnt parts it is located just behind the contact point of the battery cell connector. Thank you in advance. and more power to your channel.
If you need a photo please let me know how to send it to you.
Do you have an account on the EEVBLOG site? If so, could you post a picture of the part there and maybe circle it?
Hi Joe, thanks for the vid. I just bought a used 189 and opened up the case to see if the supercap was OK. Turns out that the previous owner had replaced it already with the Panasonic supercap. I'll pop it open every few years to make sure it isn't leaking. The 189 is a very sweet meter.
Congratulations on your new meter. These are indeed very nice, even for their age.
What's the battery life like on the 189? I was able to lay my hands on a Fluke 87-IV (which is basically a 187), but the battery life of 70 hrs put me off. I'm happy with my Brymen 867 so far. Nice vid, as always!
I have a friend who had the 87 IV. He really liked that meter. It eventually died and he bought an 87 V thinking it would be an upgrade. Even to this day, he is not a happy person over that deal. lol
They claim 72 hours typical with the backlight off when using Alkalines. I never measured the current draw. When my friend gave me that one Fluke 189, I installed new NiMH while I was going over it. Those batteries are still in the meter on their first charge. When I was making this video, I had some very old AAAs that came with the Anengs installed in dead meter that I was using to power it. It it not last very long on those! lol.
I have fitted both Brymens with rechargeable lithium batteries. The first one I had installed one into is now on it's second charge.
Como saca-lo lo knob multímetro Fluke 189
Mine use a press fit.
just found your channel and i already love your videos but i had a question
i own a fluke 189 and i think the supercap is starting to go bad so i wanted to replace it but if i do, do i risk losing the factory calibration or not ?
Not but depending on your skills, you could ruin the meter. I believe the parts I procured are no longer offered. Good luck and if you have any questions, feel free before doing anything with the meter.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thanks for the reply
my soldering skills are not too bad so i don't think that would be a problem and i'm quite surprise that the calibration is not going to be affected by changing the super cap , i thought i would loose everything and would have to send the meter for calibration
also i can't buy the panasonic cap that you've used in Switzerland so i'm gonna go with this one i think
www.distrelec.ch/Web/Downloads/_t/ds/FC0H104ZFTBR24_eng_tds.pdf
the size is pretty much similar to the one you've used but it's a different package
Also i saw in most of your videos that you also like your brymen bm869s alot but is it really that much better than the fluke ?
@@rickalison5718 Right, I do like the Brymen BM869s. Out of all the meters I have looked at, it's still my choice. Of course, that doesn't mean it's the right meter for you or anyone else. Fluke hasn't offered the 189 for several years. I like the 189 but I like a few features the BM869s offers that the 189 doesn't have. Two temperature sensor inputs for example....
@@rickalison5718 This message hit the spam filter due to the link. Many people will remove the cap and leave it out as they don't need the features. Calibration is checking the meter against a known standards. Alignment is adjusting the meter to bring it back into calibration. Changing the cap will have no effect on this.
Forgive me Joe, I'm a fluke addict... my vintage fluke 73 is 35 years old, and still working! Have the 189 also. You definitely recommend replacing those two resistors??? Also in the uk 👍🇬🇧
I didn't suggest anyone to change them during the video. For educational purposes, the video describes a particular test that a modern meter would be required to pass if it were to be certified and that I suspect that this meter could use a better part.
My first Fluke runs but took a lot of TLC to bring it back to life again. th-cam.com/video/ObKomuLLqU8/w-d-xo.html
MKme lab has a youtube video where he also removes the ultracapacitor (at first sight he thinks it is a diode) from his Fluke 189. It seems that he had a parasitic power draw of around 200mA.
I watched that video along with a few others on the 189. My favorite is still this one: th-cam.com/video/DUwkuM3blsk/w-d-xo.html
I watched this video quite a while back. I loved his humor about the engineer LOL! I've dealt with a few of those type guys in my years as a toolmaker/programmer. Most guys were on the nuggets with knowledge, a few I ran across were as clueless as they come working for a world wide manufacturer of fiber optics at that time in the late 90's. Amazing how some of these guys got their degree. @@joesmith-je3tq
My question is:
¿This fluke could be better?
:O
Everything we humans make could be improved. This meter is no exception. Still, for it's age, it's a very nice general purpose meter.