When you put force on the new one, do it slowly, very slowly. The piston on the end of the tensioner has to compress and it can only do so at a certain rate. These cheaper tensioners make you use very little force which means it takes many seconds for the piston to compress.
I was changing the power steering pump and the same thing happened to me, the pivot nut broke, so I removed the screw at the top of the alternator and the one at the bottom just loosen it and also loosen the large screw on the tensioner to remove the belt and change the pump. , but I realized that the tensioner pulley is bad too, so I changed the pump, put the belt on and left the tensioner pulley for another time. So that the pivot nut does not break, first loosen the large screw of the tensioner and do what you have to do and tighten the screw again.
Sunday, July 25, 2021 A question for anyone: The tensioner bolt on my 2004 Corolla snapped. The car has 107,000 miles. It was a real project to get the broken bolt out of the engine block, with trying different drill bits and using a right angle drill attachment. I finally got the remains of the broken bolt out last night, woo hoo! Is it worth using Permatex anti-seize compound for aluminum on the new bolt? It's a 3 hour trip by bus and bicycle to buy a bottle from Menard's Hardware Store. Thank you much.
It's a bit unusual for the bolt the tensioner pivots on to break, so I'm thinking that may have been an anomaly. Before putting in the tensioner, thread in and remove the new bolt several times until it feels very smooth. You shouldn't have to put in any anti-seize. If you have time to order some and have it delivered, then maybe do it just for the heck of it, but you shouldn't need it. Don't overtighten the new bolt also.
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Thank you for the great video, very helpful! 😊
Thank you for the information
Nice vid. My original tensioner broke in the same place when I went to remove the belt to replace. I am I hope the new one don't break or ill be SOL
When you put force on the new one, do it slowly, very slowly. The piston on the end of the tensioner has to compress and it can only do so at a certain rate. These cheaper tensioners make you use very little force which means it takes many seconds for the piston to compress.
I was changing the power steering pump and the same thing happened to me, the pivot nut broke, so I removed the screw at the top of the alternator and the one at the bottom just loosen it and also loosen the large screw on the tensioner to remove the belt and change the pump. , but I realized that the tensioner pulley is bad too, so I changed the pump, put the belt on and left the tensioner pulley for another time. So that the pivot nut does not break, first loosen the large screw of the tensioner and do what you have to do and tighten the screw again.
What brand did you go with for the belt
I think I ended up going with a Bando belt. They make a lot of OEM stuff
what kind of tool did you use to get the stud back in?
I just used my fingers to get it started. There was plenty of room and it went back in really easily.
Sunday, July 25, 2021
A question for anyone:
The tensioner bolt on my 2004 Corolla snapped. The car has 107,000 miles. It was a real project to get the broken bolt out of the engine block, with trying different drill bits and using a right angle drill attachment. I finally got the remains of the broken bolt out last night, woo hoo!
Is it worth using Permatex anti-seize compound for aluminum on the new bolt? It's a 3 hour trip by bus and bicycle to buy a bottle from Menard's Hardware Store.
Thank you much.
It's a bit unusual for the bolt the tensioner pivots on to break, so I'm thinking that may have been an anomaly. Before putting in the tensioner, thread in and remove the new bolt several times until it feels very smooth. You shouldn't have to put in any anti-seize. If you have time to order some and have it delivered, then maybe do it just for the heck of it, but you shouldn't need it. Don't overtighten the new bolt also.