I recently set 6 of these 16 footers and basically did what you did except I didn’t attach the supports until after they were in the ground. My holes were in packed clay at about 30 inches and 16 inches wide. I mixed my own concrete using a 4,4,2 mix for extra strength.
Longer definitely works better too.. and longer would’ve been better in this video being on such a substantial incline. I’ve actually changed my process since this video some. Now I usually frame up my band and stiff leg it square and level. Then measure down and plumbob down to my pad and subtract an inch for metal post pads. Then notch my post for the band THEN stand her up. Don’t even need the 2x4 legs and it beats notching on a ladder eating sawdust. Most people don’t notch the posts anyway I don’t think but I like being able to have the rail posts go all the way to the ground.. my decks will be strong forever 👊🏼
Filmed in 2016 still in vertical mode ... good work raising it, not even a stronger person could safely handle such a size post with its corners and splinter factor.
Thanks. I have to do a 6x6x16 in a few weeks and I was worried about being able to stand it up without help. Your physical characteristics look similar to mine and it didn't look all that difficult for you.
Good video. I’m needing to build a roof for my RV and considering using this method. I’m still not sure how I’ll get the top beams set once posts are in place
Thanks man!! I usually screw 2x’s horizontal for a “ledge” for one end and walk the other end up a ladder. But I always “notch” the 6x6 for my “double band” too. I would NEVER consider using a 6x6 horizontally for anything, FYI, it’ll sag terribly, even flat on the ground they’ll warp and bend if not strapped together properly. Depending on span from post to post determines 2x8, 2x10, or 2x12 band and I always double it. The norm would be posts set @ 8’. Say I’ve got 32’, I’d run 16’ from either end. The double would be 8’ - 24’ and fill ends with 8’ either side. Typically double 2x10.. any further span I use 2x12’s. TMI but food for thought .. good luck!!
@@jwhallock9083 thanks for responding and what you’re saying about doubling up makes sense. I’ve been looking for big beams but didn’t think about just adding multiple smaller ones!! 🤦
That was pretty smooth. I have to stand three twelve footers on to saddled sono tubes about 20 inches above grade. Compacted grevel driveway surrounding the area. No dirt or grass to grab the 2x4 supports. No post hole. It's gotta get up on to the saddle. Any tips?
Hmmm.. yeah.. make someone else do it!! Haha! Seriously tho.. I’d have to see a picture of the whole situation for my brain to figure it out. Are you by yourself or how many helpers can you come up with?? Got access to a bobcat or something? 12’ step ladders??
This was over 4 yrs ago. I now use this same technique on “8”x16’” telephone poles.. works quite well. I’m really strong tho. I would advise ya just call the phone company to help ya solve your problem instead of searching u-tube.
Thanks for the video. Did you use some type of anchor to attach the 6x6 to the concrete? Thanks. Im going to demo and replace my deck soon and I'll need to use 12ft 6x6 posts.
Jason Dwiggins yessir..that’s important of course. A lot of times usually the last thing I do after everything is framed up and done I grab a small sledgehammer and a level and plumb the posts real good. Then I mix 1/4 to 1/2 bag quickcrete dry enough to form it around the base so any water sheds AWAY from the posts. Then I backfill the dirt in the same fashion..mound it so water sheds AWAY from the post and tamp it down real good. That’s really all it needs in my opinion. Some inspectors like to see anchors and I’ve had to use the metal “pads” between the post and concrete pad an talk about a major pain in the keister. If you’re off even an 1/8” your posts won’t be plumb. Ya pretty much have to frame the band on stifflegs THEN level down, install the anchor, THEN install the post and it STILL usually isn’t perfect. Sometimes I’ve tried anchoring with several tapcons on each post but that’s just a waste of time and money in my opinion
How deep did you dig the hole? I hand dug down 3 feet currently? Are your posts set in the hole or are using some bracket or what? I’m a newb so any help on these questions is great. We are putting a sunshade up.
Keith Kralik I usually dig at least 18” and fill with high strength quickcrete to a couple inches below grade.. after structure is built and everything is square I re-plumb the posts and put more concrete around the base of the post so it can’t move. Then backfill with dirt. Concrete and dirt “mounded” up the post so water sheds away from the post if that makes sense. Depending on the soil and the weight of the structure determines the shape and depth of the hole. Some inspectors like to see the metal pads under the post.. they’re a pain in the ass really and not cheap so I mostly just use them when doing porch post on a concrete slab.
Daniel Flather .. several reasons actually. I like to have a substantial concrete pad underneath my post. If done right the pad, therefore the post cannot settle under the weight of the deck and whatever is on the deck. Another important reason for me doing it this way is when you’re building a deck 16 foot up in the air without a transit, by yourself, on a hill (which are everywhere in TN:), This is the best way I’ve found to keep the deck SQUARE and be able to PLUMB the posts real good if need once the deck is built....by just knocking the post one way or the other on the pad. Then I always mix up a little more concrete for around the base of the post then mound the dirt up some so the water sheds away from the bottom of the post. These days if I’m having to pass an inspection they want it done this way but also with a metal anchored pad between the post and the concrete. Major pain in the ass cause if you’re at all off on your measurements or out of square you’re screwed
They can be special ordered longer..I actually looked at a deck up on Elder Mtn today that needs to be completely replaced..it’s a monster deck with 15 posts ..the shortest is 12’ ..the majority are 18’ and 3 of them are over 20’. Everything is angles and miter cuts.. it’ll be quite the endeavor to just DEMO what’s there cause it’s hanging off the side of a mountain!! Astronomical quote coming right up 😂
Couple more questions......... How deep did you did your hole? I plan on going 48 inches for mine. And did you dig any kind of slope on the post hole to basically hold the wood post in place as you walked it up? Years ago when I set my flag pole- the hardest part was when I would reach the balance point and it would keep teeter tautering.
jason wagus The quality of the soil on any given hole I dig determines the shape, depth, width and amount of concrete. These particular holes were about 18 inches wide and deep enough for three 80lb bags of high strength QuikCrete. The soil was really hard and dry so I was confident it wouldn't wash out because patio pavers would be around it.
We just did it this weekend. Wifey's nephew helped me out. The first 2 feet were soft dirt and then we hit clay with the post hole digger. Got it just past 36 inches. It literally is between the asphalt and the concrete parking lot so I am not too worried about it leaning or anything. He and I stood it right up and threw in an 80lb bag of quikrete. It turned out great. Thanks again.
Did this today using your method and I was impressed with how easy and smooth this went. Thanks!
I recently set 6 of these 16 footers and basically did what you did except I didn’t attach the supports until after they were in the ground. My holes were in packed clay at about 30 inches and 16 inches wide. I mixed my own concrete using a 4,4,2 mix for extra strength.
Useful video. For turning the posts I clamp or screw a 3-4 foot length of 2 by 4 to the post as a handle.
I was picturing that post falling right and going through a window. Good job.
Haha yeah me too! That wasn’t necessarily the BEST position for me to be in😂
I set ten posts that way but had longer 2x4’s fastened a little higher on the post. Bought a tractor since then and use the tractor loader now.
Longer definitely works better too.. and longer would’ve been better in this video being on such a substantial incline. I’ve actually changed my process since this video some. Now I usually frame up my band and stiff leg it square and level. Then measure down and plumbob down to my pad and subtract an inch for metal post pads. Then notch my post for the band THEN stand her up. Don’t even need the 2x4 legs and it beats notching on a ladder eating sawdust. Most people don’t notch the posts anyway I don’t think but I like being able to have the rail posts go all the way to the ground.. my decks will be strong forever 👊🏼
@@jwhallock9083 I’m a big fan of notching.
Nice.
I just got through setting 6x6x16.Luckily I had help though..200 pounds at that height ain't easy to manage alone.
Why does every builder start the day by pumping old radio music at full volume?
Filmed in 2016 still in vertical mode ... good work raising it, not even a stronger person could safely handle such a size post with its corners and splinter factor.
How long were the 2 x 4 braces? Thanks for the video!
I’m thinking I probably cut a 16’ footer in half so 8’ oughta do
Thanks. I have to do a 6x6x16 in a few weeks and I was worried about being able to stand it up without help. Your physical characteristics look similar to mine and it didn't look all that difficult for you.
I am buff as both of you also, we all should go lifting.
John Davidson ..well, I got old since then and would rather supervise.. I’ll watch you guys lift em and tell y’all what you’re doing wrong 😁
Good video. I’m needing to build a roof for my RV and considering using this method. I’m still not sure how I’ll get the top beams set once posts are in place
Thanks man!! I usually screw 2x’s horizontal for a “ledge” for one end and walk the other end up a ladder. But I always “notch” the 6x6 for my “double band” too. I would NEVER consider using a 6x6 horizontally for anything, FYI, it’ll sag terribly, even flat on the ground they’ll warp and bend if not strapped together properly. Depending on span from post to post determines 2x8, 2x10, or 2x12 band and I always double it. The norm would be posts set @ 8’. Say I’ve got 32’, I’d run 16’ from either end. The double would be 8’ - 24’ and fill ends with 8’ either side. Typically double 2x10.. any further span I use 2x12’s. TMI but food for thought .. good luck!!
@@jwhallock9083 thanks for responding and what you’re saying about doubling up makes sense. I’ve been looking for big beams but didn’t think about just adding multiple smaller ones!! 🤦
wow this is awesome really appreciate it i had a similar idea but unsure thanks !
Hercules! Hercules! You are the man! 👍
That was pretty smooth.
I have to stand three twelve footers on to saddled sono tubes about 20 inches above grade. Compacted grevel driveway surrounding the area. No dirt or grass to grab the 2x4 supports. No post hole. It's gotta get up on to the saddle. Any tips?
Hmmm.. yeah.. make someone else do it!! Haha!
Seriously tho.. I’d have to see a picture of the whole situation for my brain to figure it out. Are you by yourself or how many helpers can you come up with?? Got access to a bobcat or something? 12’ step ladders??
@@jwhallock9083
Just like you haha. One man army Getting too old for this stuff like you said.
Only thing I could think of is if I put a piece of 2 by 6 on the house itself and use that to balance The six-by-six in the saddle
Just what I was looking for
Awesome.. glad to hear it!!
Not a very heavy pole if he can lift it. I'll try another video for how to lift and set an 8" x 16ft telephone pole section.
This was over 4 yrs ago. I now use this same technique on “8”x16’” telephone poles.. works quite well. I’m really strong tho. I would advise ya just call the phone company to help ya solve your problem instead of searching u-tube.
Nice job thanks for posting it was very helpful. One suggestion for your next video hold your phone horizontally it makes for better TH-cam videos.
Nice video!!! Thanks!!!
Ive done 4 6×6×20s....but im getting ready to put up a 4x10x24 with no post hole. So it will be free standing with a net on top. The struggle is real!
Thanks for the video. Did you use some type of anchor to attach the 6x6 to the concrete? Thanks. Im going to demo and replace my deck soon and I'll need to use 12ft 6x6 posts.
Jason Dwiggins yessir..that’s important of course. A lot of times usually the last thing I do after everything is framed up and done I grab a small sledgehammer and a level and plumb the posts real good. Then I mix 1/4 to 1/2 bag quickcrete dry enough to form it around the base so any water sheds AWAY from the posts. Then I backfill the dirt in the same fashion..mound it so water sheds AWAY from the post and tamp it down real good. That’s really all it needs in my opinion. Some inspectors like to see anchors and I’ve had to use the metal “pads” between the post and concrete pad an talk about a major pain in the keister. If you’re off even an 1/8” your posts won’t be plumb. Ya pretty much have to frame the band on stifflegs THEN level down, install the anchor, THEN install the post and it STILL usually isn’t perfect. Sometimes I’ve tried anchoring with several tapcons on each post but that’s just a waste of time and money in my opinion
How deep did you dig the hole? I hand dug down 3 feet currently? Are your posts set in the hole or are using some bracket or what? I’m a newb so any help on these questions is great. We are putting a sunshade up.
Keith Kralik I usually dig at least 18” and fill with high strength quickcrete to a couple inches below grade.. after structure is built and everything is square I re-plumb the posts and put more concrete around the base of the post so it can’t move. Then backfill with dirt. Concrete and dirt “mounded” up the post so water sheds away from the post if that makes sense. Depending on the soil and the weight of the structure determines the shape and depth of the hole. Some inspectors like to see the metal pads under the post.. they’re a pain in the ass really and not cheap so I mostly just use them when doing porch post on a concrete slab.
Question. Why not set the posts in the ground 3 feet? Would not help with setting the posts?
Daniel Flather .. several reasons actually. I like to have a substantial concrete pad underneath my post. If done right the pad, therefore the post cannot settle under the weight of the deck and whatever is on the deck. Another important reason for me doing it this way is when you’re building a deck 16 foot up in the air without a transit, by yourself, on a hill (which are everywhere in TN:), This is the best way I’ve found to keep the deck SQUARE and be able to PLUMB the posts real good if need once the deck is built....by just knocking the post one way or the other on the pad. Then I always mix up a little more concrete for around the base of the post then mound the dirt up some so the water sheds away from the bottom of the post. These days if I’m having to pass an inspection they want it done this way but also with a metal anchored pad between the post and the concrete. Major pain in the ass cause if you’re at all off on your measurements or out of square you’re screwed
And besides all the above mentioned ...my post doesn’t end up 3 feet too short 🤔
@@jwhallock9083 Yes, you'd need 16+3 ft posts. I don't think 6*6 come longer than 16 feet.
They can be special ordered longer..I actually looked at a deck up on Elder Mtn today that needs to be completely replaced..it’s a monster deck with 15 posts ..the shortest is 12’ ..the majority are 18’ and 3 of them are over 20’. Everything is angles and miter cuts.. it’ll be quite the endeavor to just DEMO what’s there cause it’s hanging off the side of a mountain!! Astronomical quote coming right up 😂
Couple more questions......... How deep did you did your hole? I plan on going 48 inches for mine. And did you dig any kind of slope on the post hole to basically hold the wood post in place as you walked it up? Years ago when I set my flag pole- the hardest part was when I would reach the balance point and it would keep teeter tautering.
jason wagus The quality of the soil on any given hole I dig determines the shape, depth, width and amount of concrete. These particular holes were about 18 inches wide and deep enough for three 80lb bags of high strength QuikCrete. The soil was really hard and dry so I was confident it wouldn't wash out because patio pavers would be around it.
We just did it this weekend. Wifey's nephew helped me out. The first 2 feet were soft dirt and then we hit clay with the post hole digger. Got it just past 36 inches. It literally is between the asphalt and the concrete parking lot so I am not too worried about it leaning or anything. He and I stood it right up and threw in an 80lb bag of quikrete. It turned out great. Thanks again.
Hahahaha. He said I found a Mexican with a winch and a 4x4. Hahahahah.
SuperTramp
For God so loved the world that he gave his one and only Son, that whoever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life. John 3:16
What crap
How deep is your hole bro ?
Sorry English is my 3rd language but you seem nice
not just bad spelling but you also do not realize there is a reply button function ...