Marc has had great success with his system of woodworking, podcasting, plans, videos and the Guild, and he's the kind of guy who shows his gratitude for his success with FREE INSTRUCTIONAL videos like this. No wonder he has had such good fortune. Thanks, Marc.
My wife is an artist and i make all of the frames for her artwork; all floating frames. for anyone that might want a different approach, I use a router bit called a stepped rabetting router bit which i found on Amazon. It's fairly inexpensive at about 30 dollars Canadian and if you have a router table, you can cut a stepped profile into a single strip of wood for the art to sit in and the spacing around the edges is perfect. If you don't have a router table, this is obviously a great way to go also.
Great build video, as usual, Mark, and something I may do this year. One change I think I'll make is that instead of trimming the vertical piece down to the desired size, I'll offset the inside piece, so the print is at the desired height. This would give room for the hanging hardware as well as the mounting screws to be inset, allowing the frame to hang flush on the wall.
A very good tutorial on frame building. I am most impressed that you fid not use the term "pre-drill" even once. I fail to understand the term. Ever since I was a kid I was told to drill "pilot holes". Your construction style is very good. Your instruction is as good or better. Well thought out and simple. I wish more You Tubers would follow your example. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe. 🙂🙂 Also, after reading a lot of the previous comments I think a lot of folks come here just for the cat.😋
I make similar frames, but rather than cutting the sides down so the back bits can be flush with the back of the frame, I add spacers below the back bits (while assembling) to lift them up enough that the front of the canvas sits at the height you want. This also makes the frame look a little chunkier, which is often a good look.
I like seeing simpler projects like this added to the mix. Two observations: - if you want to limit the tools needed to just a miter saw, you could raise the back board to bring the print up to a height that works with your standard boards - I believe the wider stock boards are a slightly better cost/bf, so if you’re going to rip them down on a table saw anyway it may make sense to start with wider stock.
When clamping the artwork in, use a small piece of paper or wax paper under the clamp face to protect the piece. Some canvas printing processes leave a soft finish that the clamp can mar/transfer gunk to. ...and now I have another weekend project. Thanks!
LOVE watching you teach. You are a natural instructor. Love the easy project for a quick turnaround in the shop, or for beginners. How is the sacrificial fence secured on your miter saw? I need to do this for mine!!!!
The extended Oreo "help" was priceless, especially with the sawdust falling down on him/her. That said, my shop cats run when I put on the over-ear protection. You might wanna train Oreo to do that.
24:57 - Of all the other warnings for newer folks I'm surprised you didn't warn about drilling out the face side of the art frame. A tape marker would be of good use here.
Beautiful work, Marc! Nicely done! 😃 Thanks a bunch for all the tips! Oh, and you should make a scratch stock. It could help a lot for the borders. 😉 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
When gluing the sides, if you leave 3 small areas without the Titebond, you can then use CA in those dots.. It will hold it while you then apply the clamps. That will allow you to use the bench to keep them flat with a little wax paper on the bench to prevent glue from getting on the bench.
@@coldbloodedkidz860 If you use CA accelerator on the opposing surface at those points, you can avoid clamps altogether if the boards are straight. They will just hold together instantly while to wood glue dries. You probably know this already, but maybe it could help a beginner with limited or no clamps.
I just love that you've accepted that it's Oreo's shop and he's allowing you to work in it...and that you just continue working with him in the middle of everything like he's not even there 🤣
Good vid as usual. Loved your label hack and feel dumb for not thinking of that. I really think you need not check for square when making the last adjustments clamping the miter together...don't ask me how I know. This is basically how I build my floating frames but I always pick up a tip or two when watching your vids.
Removing glue from tight corners: I keep an artist's 1/2" wide brush in a cup of water nearby. The damp narrow brush with long handle really gets into the corners, then wipe with paper towel.
I usually use lighter fluid (napthalene) to remove the stickers. Squirt some right on the sticker, wait for it to soak through, then peel the sticker right off. Do not combine this method with the heat gun.
I do love that you added the disclaimer not to mix your method with the heat gun method lmao. Although I feel like if people need a warning for that we should just let Darwin sort that out lol
Mark, how did you attach that block that prevents blow out on your miter saw? Is it just alien tape or something similar? Or is it securely attached to other points? That is probably the single best improvement I’ve seen for a miter saw
Regarding nominal wood, especially in dimensional Lumber, the reasoning for the 1/2 in smaller actual size in every direction is milling. Rational being that tradespeople didn't want to work with rough sawn dimensional lumber (whether that's true or induced demand is another story), the 1/2 in of "missing" material is 1/4 in of milling on every surface that's lost on production. So the nominal sizes is rough sawn dimensions, what you buy is milled, so not that unlike buying hardwoods in S4S vs rough sawn and having to account for milling when buying the latter.
Even if your mitre cuts are perfect, checking for squareness during the glue-up of the frame would be an extra level of comfort. And did you check the art work for squareness too? Any out of squareness there would have to be matched in the frame or the gaps would not be even all around.
So, you are just relying on the glue in the corners - no splines or other joint strengtheners? I have a shadow box frame I want to make and I was wondering if the glue was enough. Is this just a special case because the frame for the photo is adding the structure or would you feel that the glue should be enough if this was just artwork that was not attached to the frame?
It's such a light duty piece that I do think the glue is enough for the purpose. And the fact that art is screwed to the frame kind of helps give the whole thing a lot more stability. Just hanging on the wall, it should be good to go.
I have a whole bunch of mis-cut 2x3s from a previous project. Looks like I know what I’m doing with some of them! ETA: That whiskey cube looks really neat! How long will the discount on the plans be available?
Hi Marc, do you have any issues with the festool Kapex blade deflection on the mites? I used the 10 inch Kapex on a course with Peter Sefton and ran into this issue with a new blade on box mites?
I made one of these floating frames for a small painting of the Swallow's Nest (Castle on the Black Sea) I bought while visiting the Crimea in 2007. The painting was on canvas board so I had to glue enough scrap wood to the back of canvas board to make it level with the face of the frame. I used some nice figured sapele wood for the frame, painted the 1/4" gap floating area flat black and clear coated the face of the frame, 3 coats. The mahogany color of the figured Sapele clear coated looks really nice with the color of the sea around the castle. Google the Swallow's Nest in Crimea, the castle is sitting on top of a stone type mountain over looking the Black Sea.
@@woodwhisperer Understood. It was a throw back to one of your videos years ago when you made the same comment. I can't remember when but it was funny.😀
Nominal measurements...an aberration and and it should be outlawed. yes this matters and it is a big deal. We all understand from where it comes from: it comes from non-sense and greed. If the outcome is 4"x4" ,or whatever, getting more expensive (as the raw material will have to have necessarily he waste included to then become a real 4"x4") so be it. But as is this totally farcical and unique to this industry. My hope? that someone somewhere someday will put an end to this stupidity, aberration and disgrace - it has gone for far too long and the shrinkage is getting worse. Just imagine if (for example) the marble industry (where a big slab can become small floor tiles for example) would start doing the same... We all need and have the right to know exactly what we are paying for and what we are getting: a simple, critical and elementary customer right be one a private, industrial or commercial consumer.
Don't miss the pre-order pricing for Caleb James' Dry Bar Cube! thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/dry-bar-cube/
Love this video.
Marc losing his stop block and not having his T track hardware is the most relatable thing I’ve ever seen in a Wood Whisperer video.
Awww, Oreo was so happy that you were building him a box.
Oreo is the best addition to your videos! i especially love the fact he/she is covered in sawdust :)
Very nice. I like the tip about stop blocks at the miter saw. That way people with my skill level can cut all 4 pieces exactly the same wrong length!
Marc has had great success with his system of woodworking, podcasting, plans, videos and the Guild, and he's the kind of guy who shows his gratitude for his success with FREE INSTRUCTIONAL videos like this. No wonder he has had such good fortune. Thanks, Marc.
I like seeing the seeming simple projects as well as the more complicated ones. Keep them all coming.
Oreo is awesome! Such a sweet kitty
My wife is an artist and i make all of the frames for her artwork; all floating frames. for anyone that might want a different approach, I use a router bit called a stepped rabetting router bit which i found on Amazon. It's fairly inexpensive at about 30 dollars Canadian and if you have a router table, you can cut a stepped profile into a single strip of wood for the art to sit in and the spacing around the edges is perfect.
If you don't have a router table, this is obviously a great way to go also.
Such a good cat!
Great build video, as usual, Mark, and something I may do this year. One change I think I'll make is that instead of trimming the vertical piece down to the desired size, I'll offset the inside piece, so the print is at the desired height. This would give room for the hanging hardware as well as the mounting screws to be inset, allowing the frame to hang flush on the wall.
I like your thinking.🙂🙂
A very good tutorial on frame building. I am most impressed that you fid not use the term "pre-drill" even once. I fail to understand the term. Ever since I was a kid I was told to drill "pilot holes". Your construction style is very good. Your instruction is as good or better. Well thought out and simple. I wish more You Tubers would follow your example. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe. 🙂🙂 Also, after reading a lot of the previous comments I think a lot of folks come here just for the cat.😋
Nice to see Oreo inspecting your work!
I make similar frames, but rather than cutting the sides down so the back bits can be flush with the back of the frame, I add spacers below the back bits (while assembling) to lift them up enough that the front of the canvas sits at the height you want. This also makes the frame look a little chunkier, which is often a good look.
You need to make one of these for your cat! She liked it.😀
I like seeing simpler projects like this added to the mix. Two observations:
- if you want to limit the tools needed to just a miter saw, you could raise the back board to bring the print up to a height that works with your standard boards
- I believe the wider stock boards are a slightly better cost/bf, so if you’re going to rip them down on a table saw anyway it may make sense to start with wider stock.
When clamping the artwork in, use a small piece of paper or wax paper under the clamp face to protect the piece. Some canvas printing processes leave a soft finish that the clamp can mar/transfer gunk to.
...and now I have another weekend project. Thanks!
I literally was going to build one next weekend, this is perfect timing, thanks!
LOVE watching you teach. You are a natural instructor. Love the easy project for a quick turnaround in the shop, or for beginners. How is the sacrificial fence secured on your miter saw? I need to do this for mine!!!!
Great little project.
I’m gonna try this one with my son.
Appreciate all your videos
Awesome! Thank you!
Great idea for floating picture frame!
The extended Oreo "help" was priceless, especially with the sawdust falling down on him/her. That said, my shop cats run when I put on the over-ear protection. You might wanna train Oreo to do that.
Thanks Marc,
Very nice project (as I'm looking at an unframed canvas).
Great presentation skills as well.
Regards,
R
Sometimes the simple projects are the best. 👏👏
Making your own frames is particularly helpful if you are working with non-standard size canvases.
24:57 - Of all the other warnings for newer folks I'm surprised you didn't warn about drilling out the face side of the art frame. A tape marker would be of good use here.
Literally yesterday I was searching canvas frame ideas, this is pretty wild.
Beautiful work, Marc! Nicely done! 😃
Thanks a bunch for all the tips!
Oh, and you should make a scratch stock. It could help a lot for the borders. 😉
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
When gluing the sides, if you leave 3 small areas without the Titebond, you can then use CA in those dots.. It will hold it while you then apply the clamps. That will allow you to use the bench to keep them flat with a little wax paper on the bench to prevent glue from getting on the bench.
@@coldbloodedkidz860 If you use CA accelerator on the opposing surface at those points, you can avoid clamps altogether if the boards are straight. They will just hold together instantly while to wood glue dries. You probably know this already, but maybe it could help a beginner with limited or no clamps.
I just love that you've accepted that it's Oreo's shop and he's allowing you to work in it...and that you just continue working with him in the middle of everything like he's not even there 🤣
Thanks for the ideas
Great Video, great instruction!
Good vid as usual. Loved your label hack and feel dumb for not thinking of that. I really think you need not check for square when making the last adjustments clamping the miter together...don't ask me how I know. This is basically how I build my floating frames but I always pick up a tip or two when watching your vids.
oops...you do need to check for square AND read your own comments before sending...sorry all.
Love that Oreo showed up and got sawdust on him.
Marc, if you hit the painted frame with a light touch of 0000 steel wool it will knock down the sheen
THANKS FOR A GREAT VIDEO
Where is the link in the description for that model cat?
I like to put felt pads on the bottom corners of the frame as well.
Removing glue from tight corners: I keep an artist's 1/2" wide brush in a cup of water nearby. The damp narrow brush with long handle really gets into the corners, then wipe with paper towel.
I built something similar but offset the supports to make my piece flush with the front. Works if you don't have access to a table saw.
I usually use lighter fluid (napthalene) to remove the stickers. Squirt some right on the sticker, wait for it to soak through, then peel the sticker right off. Do not combine this method with the heat gun.
I do love that you added the disclaimer not to mix your method with the heat gun method lmao. Although I feel like if people need a warning for that we should just let Darwin sort that out lol
I love how there is just a casual 5-600 dollars worth of RC saws on the chair in the background lol
Mark, how did you attach that block that prevents blow out on your miter saw? Is it just alien tape or something similar? Or is it securely attached to other points? That is probably the single best improvement I’ve seen for a miter saw
Regarding nominal wood, especially in dimensional Lumber, the reasoning for the 1/2 in smaller actual size in every direction is milling. Rational being that tradespeople didn't want to work with rough sawn dimensional lumber (whether that's true or induced demand is another story), the 1/2 in of "missing" material is 1/4 in of milling on every surface that's lost on production.
So the nominal sizes is rough sawn dimensions, what you buy is milled, so not that unlike buying hardwoods in S4S vs rough sawn and having to account for milling when buying the latter.
Oreo is the new star of the show...
It’s official! thewoodwhisperer.com/product/pre-order-oreo-wood-whisperer-t-shirt/
Even if your mitre cuts are perfect, checking for squareness during the glue-up of the frame would be an extra level of comfort. And did you check the art work for squareness too? Any out of squareness there would have to be matched in the frame or the gaps would not be even all around.
Cats love boxes
Beautiful frame. My glue don't jiggle jiggle, it sets 😅
👍👍👍👍👍
So, you are just relying on the glue in the corners - no splines or other joint strengtheners?
I have a shadow box frame I want to make and I was wondering if the glue was enough.
Is this just a special case because the frame for the photo is adding the structure or would you feel that the glue should be enough if this was just artwork that was not attached to the frame?
It's such a light duty piece that I do think the glue is enough for the purpose. And the fact that art is screwed to the frame kind of helps give the whole thing a lot more stability. Just hanging on the wall, it should be good to go.
I have a whole bunch of mis-cut 2x3s from a previous project. Looks like I know what I’m doing with some of them!
ETA: That whiskey cube looks really neat! How long will the discount on the plans be available?
Right up until launch day on November 1st.
@@woodwhisperer Nice! Thanks!
Hi Marc, do you have any issues with the festool Kapex blade deflection on the mites? I used the 10 inch Kapex on a course with Peter Sefton and ran into this issue with a new blade on box mites?
❤
What is the material on the top of your bench? Carpet or something special?
I just stuffed up a picture frame and you posted this just for me. Mitrey bad it was! How did you know? Thanks
What are those hand sanding blocks I often see you using and where can I find them?
Thanks
Ed
Those are Preppin' Weapons amzn.to/403DagI
Mark what brand of countersink bit did you use in this build?
That's a Festool brand bit amzn.to/4e2U4iZ
Miters
i like oreo the cat
is that the rotec hes sanding with? anybody know?
ETS 150
@@woodwhisperer thank you
you DO realize the cat is the star of this video? lol
Oh we know ;) thewoodwhisperer.com/product/pre-order-oreo-wood-whisperer-t-shirt/
Use oak boards next time and ebonize the frame.
On the thumbnail it says only three tools, which three from the multitude are you counting 🙂. Nice project, though.
Table saw, miter saw and drill. Nothing else is a necessity if someone just wants a basic frame. :)
Hello!! 👋🏽 😊
hand sanding without backside sandpaper????? sacrilege
This guy knows!
I made one of these floating frames for a small painting of the Swallow's Nest (Castle on the Black Sea) I bought while visiting the Crimea in 2007. The painting was on canvas board so I had to glue enough scrap wood to the back of canvas board to make it level with the face of the frame. I used some nice figured sapele wood for the frame, painted the 1/4" gap floating area flat black and clear coated the face of the frame, 3 coats. The mahogany color of the figured Sapele clear coated looks really nice with the color of the sea around the castle.
Google the Swallow's Nest in Crimea, the castle is sitting on top of a stone type mountain over looking the Black Sea.
that 1/2" x 3" should've been 3/8" x 2 1/2"
Breaking the edge? Don't you mean...easing them?
Nope, I said what I meant. Easing the edge means the same thing.
@@woodwhisperer Understood. It was a throw back to one of your videos years ago when you made the same comment. I can't remember when but it was funny.😀
Nominal measurements...an aberration and and it should be outlawed. yes this matters and it is a big deal. We all understand from where it comes from: it comes from non-sense and greed. If the outcome is 4"x4" ,or whatever, getting more expensive (as the raw material will have to have necessarily he waste included to then become a real 4"x4") so be it. But as is this totally farcical and unique to this industry. My hope? that someone somewhere someday will put an end to this stupidity, aberration and disgrace - it has gone for far too long and the shrinkage is getting worse. Just imagine if (for example) the marble industry (where a big slab can become small floor tiles for example) would start doing the same... We all need and have the right to know exactly what we are paying for and what we are getting: a simple, critical and elementary customer right be one a private, industrial or commercial consumer.
Can anyone explain why the short of this popped up first and literally right above the video? What a strange occurrence tube of yous.
18:35 Seems dumb after all that work to go and break the edge 😛
Getting the dimensions of a 2x4 wrong was cringe lol