Jack - I'm not a pro. Just a dad, and my daughter's biggest fan, trying to capture fleeting moments of her and her club volleyball team. Over the past couple of weeks I've watched many of your tutorials and they have not only improved the quality of my photos tremendously but also my overall enjoyment of everything that goes into it (gear, proper settings, techniques, post workflow + software, etc). The best part of it all is the reaction of the girls and their families - that makes it all worth it. Thank you for helping an average joe like me to capture and do those moments justice creating memories that'll last forever.
Jack - another valuable video learning session. Admittedly, as a senior citizen, learning the finishing side of photos comes less naturally than at the camera, but you've introduced me to multiple software options to improve results. Thanks!
Hi Jack, first of all thank you for your amazing videos I really have got a lot of amazing tips to help my sports photography develop, you mention you use RAW photos when shooting, but when I use RAW my shooting frame rate slows down a lot on my D300 causing a lot of missed opportunities. Is it just a case that my D300 + MD10 isnt just up to the job? or is there a setting I am missing? keep up the good work and thanks in advance
Having never used a D300, it’s hard for me to say. It’s possible it’s a combination of older tech being unable to keep up or a memory card that’s not writing fast enough.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Hi Jack thanks for quick response - I've found that reducing RAW files to 12bit from 14bit restores frame rate from 2.5 fps to 7.5 fps!
Find your channel excellant! I'm a parent ake photos for h.s. football team. Have a Nikon z6ii, do you take all your photos out by using Photo mechanic, then through the Nikon nx studio, then through topaz denoise? Then maybe through light room?
I use Photo Mechanic first, but that's because I have 1500 to 2000 images per game. If you're not shooting that much, you don't necessarily need it. If you're only photographing during the day and noise isn't an issue, you can do everything in NX Studio or Lightroom and you don't really need Denoise. If you are photographing under poor lighting conditions, then yes, Denoise is my go-to for noise reduction. I have an updated video on my process for high ISO situations. Check it out - th-cam.com/video/fIfZFuHQiEs/w-d-xo.html
New subscriber here. Thanks so much for the thoughtful and educational content. You gave a brief overview of your daylight sports preset, would you consider doing another video like this but for nighttime sports photos? More specifically, under Friday Nights Lights? 🏈
I've done a couple videos that touch on low light, high ISO editing. But for now, in Lightroom -- Texture +5, clarity +21, Dehaze +53; in the HSL panel, saturation red -15, orange -20, and yellow -10. Noise reduction and sharpening performed in Topaz Denoise
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thank you for this Jack. I made a rapid transition from taking portraits to football photos a few weeks ago. Your videos have been a tremendous help. I need to get DeNoise. Do you recommend the plug in for Lightroom or the stand alone software?
Great video. I am curious as to how you archive these photos. Do you keep your original RAW files and also keep the exported DNG files that you import into Lightroom? Also, how do you catalog them? Do you just catalog the DNG files in Lightroom so you can go back and look at them at a later date while keeping the RAW files in a separate folder that is not cataloged? Thanks.
Thank you! For long-term storage, to save space, I generally just keep a copy of the original, culled, RAW files and the delivered JPEGs in case I have to go back at some time and use them. I generally don't keep all the intermediate steps (like the NX Studio edits) to save space. RAW, TIF, and DNG files can be quite large. I've tried a couple methods to search for photos. First, I insert pertinent info in the metadata. Second, I put them in file folders with the date of the event. Files are named with the school name and sport.
Hey Jack, this was a great workflow vid. How long does it typically take you to go through this process for a baseball game? The minor league team I interviewed with asked how long it would take me to do the editing per game?
It depends on the expectation of your customer. My primary customer is VERY picky about grain and noise, so I go through lengthy processes to get me there - which you see here. I have another customer that just wants me to crank out JPEGs with zero editing - so that's what they get. In this video's example, it'll take me until the next day, usually, to get through a gallery of a couple hundred photos.
@@JackBeasleyMedia the minor league team is wanting to charge an hourly rate and previously they weren’t paying the photographer for editing time. So im trying to figure out how to evenly split the photo time and editing time to fit their budget.
You mentioned that you prefer to convert to DNG (vs TIFF) for LR import because it offers a few additional options in LR. What are these options? The reason I ask it that I shoot Canon and Canon DPP doesn't offer export in DNG format (TIFF, JPEG AND HEIF only).
So Jack, I am curious. How many photos do you take at friday night lights? Do you cover JV and Varsity? I might shoot 1000 pics per game. Less at JV. You probably use this workflow for the low light sports? Once you upload, how long does it take to complete the editing start to finish with this proceedure you have shown? I strictly shoot Jpeg because editing time wears me out. I have no clue how people can do 1000 RAW. I accidently shot RAW a couple weeks ago and what a nightmare that was. Keep up the helpful videos. Thx
With football, yes, I'll cover both JV and varsity (but mostly varsity). As far as numbers per game, well over 1,000 frames, especially if I do warmups ahead of time. For low light sports, I use a somewhat different process shooting JPEG rather than RAW, which I explained in this video: th-cam.com/video/4zbTJAWVonU/w-d-xo.html
@@JackBeasleyMedia Hi Jack...I had a tough time trying to watch your July 5th video? The voice was jumping to the wrong spot at 1:22, so I restarted my laptop, tried a lot of things but could not make it work. Just figured it was my connection here. I just tried again and now cannot even access it? It says it is private now? I have been blocked lol Just an FYI
@@angelogarciajr5356 Hey Angelo, I was getting complaints about the audio so I set it to private and am in the process of re-uploading it. It should be visible shortly. Thanks for the feedback!
If you shoot JPEG fine then is it less steps. I didn't realize how many steps to edit. I am a amateur looking to someday get the courage to do for real but edit in my Mac. I'm overwhelmed by all these steps. If I had to pick 1 software for a beginner what would be best? Sorry for all the questions!
So what I took you through was getting the highest quality images possible. You can easily get away with shooting JPEG or RAW and going straight to Lightroom and get perfectly good images for most purposes. If you’re a Nikon shooter, you can shoot RAW do it all in Nikon NXD for free (it’s a RAW editor).
3 ปีที่แล้ว
What version of photo mechanic do you recommend? Is Version good enough or do you need the Plus version?
Like I said in the video, I only use Photomechanic to cull photos. I just don't see the need for it to also catalog my photos. There are plenty of other ways to do that. So, the standard version is enough for me.
You mean for Topaz Denoise? I’m running a Windows-based PC. It’s fairly high end, set up for gaming. Also, check to see if you’re using the latest version of Denoise, it’s quicker than the older version.
No. In this video, I demonstrated shooting in RAW and doing the first edits in Nikon's RAW editor. It's then saved as a TIFF to retain as many pixels as possible before moving on to the next step.
I am curious on why you use both Camera Raw and Lightroom, the entire editing interface is identical between them and in some settings, Camera Raw is better than Lightroom, depending on the version that you are use
I strongly disagree with using the camera mfgr's photo editor. This boxed photo editing software is for consumer users for quick easy editing without additional software costs, but very limited in features. Adobe Camera RAW, in both Lightroom and Photoshop, has made giant improvements in post editing including masking operations. In fact, this video is already antiquated, and should be updated for the current software features and technologies.
Jack - I'm not a pro. Just a dad, and my daughter's biggest fan, trying to capture fleeting moments of her and her club volleyball team. Over the past couple of weeks I've watched many of your tutorials and they have not only improved the quality of my photos tremendously but also my overall enjoyment of everything that goes into it (gear, proper settings, techniques, post workflow + software, etc). The best part of it all is the reaction of the girls and their families - that makes it all worth it. Thank you for helping an average joe like me to capture and do those moments justice creating memories that'll last forever.
Thanks for the great comment, Sean! I appreciate it!
Jack - another valuable video learning session. Admittedly, as a senior citizen, learning the finishing side of photos comes less naturally than at the camera, but you've introduced me to multiple software options to improve results. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video. It's always interesting to see how other sports photographers take their images to finished product.
Thanks Craig!
Awesome! Exactly what I'm looking for. Going to use your workflow for the next few weeks. Great information on your channel. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Jack, first of all thank you for your amazing videos I really have got a lot of amazing tips to help my sports photography develop, you mention you use RAW photos when shooting, but when I use RAW my shooting frame rate slows down a lot on my D300 causing a lot of missed opportunities.
Is it just a case that my D300 + MD10 isnt just up to the job? or is there a setting I am missing? keep up the good work and thanks in advance
Having never used a D300, it’s hard for me to say. It’s possible it’s a combination of older tech being unable to keep up or a memory card that’s not writing fast enough.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Hi Jack thanks for quick response - I've found that reducing RAW files to 12bit from 14bit restores frame rate from 2.5 fps to 7.5 fps!
Thanks for teaching me a faster way to find the Black/White points in my photos!
Happy to help!
Fantastic video. I may need to re-look at Nikon’s software. Cheers.
Thank you!
Find your channel excellant! I'm a parent ake photos for h.s. football team. Have a Nikon z6ii, do you take all your photos out by using Photo mechanic, then through the Nikon nx studio, then through topaz denoise? Then maybe through light room?
I use Photo Mechanic first, but that's because I have 1500 to 2000 images per game. If you're not shooting that much, you don't necessarily need it. If you're only photographing during the day and noise isn't an issue, you can do everything in NX Studio or Lightroom and you don't really need Denoise. If you are photographing under poor lighting conditions, then yes, Denoise is my go-to for noise reduction. I have an updated video on my process for high ISO situations. Check it out - th-cam.com/video/fIfZFuHQiEs/w-d-xo.html
@@JackBeasleyMedia games now on Friday night with lights , keep videos coming
Thank you sir for the info. Always looking for better options and ways to edit...
Thanks for watching!
New subscriber here. Thanks so much for the thoughtful and educational content. You gave a brief overview of your daylight sports preset, would you consider doing another video like this but for nighttime sports photos? More specifically, under Friday Nights Lights? 🏈
I've done a couple videos that touch on low light, high ISO editing. But for now, in Lightroom -- Texture +5, clarity +21, Dehaze +53; in the HSL panel, saturation red -15, orange -20, and yellow -10. Noise reduction and sharpening performed in Topaz Denoise
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thank you for this Jack. I made a rapid transition from taking portraits to football photos a few weeks ago. Your videos have been a tremendous help. I need to get DeNoise. Do you recommend the plug in for Lightroom or the stand alone software?
@@jrcannon8038 I use it as standalone and process in batches. If you’re only doing one or two at a time, you can use it as a plug-in
@@JackBeasleyMedia thanks! Will have time to check out the stand alone platform tomorrow hopefully. Have a great night!
Great video. I am curious as to how you archive these photos. Do you keep your original RAW files and also keep the exported DNG files that you import into Lightroom? Also, how do you catalog them? Do you just catalog the DNG files in Lightroom so you can go back and look at them at a later date while keeping the RAW files in a separate folder that is not cataloged? Thanks.
Thank you! For long-term storage, to save space, I generally just keep a copy of the original, culled, RAW files and the delivered JPEGs in case I have to go back at some time and use them. I generally don't keep all the intermediate steps (like the NX Studio edits) to save space. RAW, TIF, and DNG files can be quite large. I've tried a couple methods to search for photos. First, I insert pertinent info in the metadata. Second, I put them in file folders with the date of the event. Files are named with the school name and sport.
Thanks for this. Very helpful. Does NX Studio have a batch edit function? What's a good tutorial for NX Studio?
You can apply the same adjustments to multiple photos. I don’t have a video specifically on how to use it, but there are several on TH-cam.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thank you!
Hey Jack, this was a great workflow vid. How long does it typically take you to go through this process for a baseball game? The minor league team I interviewed with asked how long it would take me to do the editing per game?
It depends on the expectation of your customer. My primary customer is VERY picky about grain and noise, so I go through lengthy processes to get me there - which you see here. I have another customer that just wants me to crank out JPEGs with zero editing - so that's what they get. In this video's example, it'll take me until the next day, usually, to get through a gallery of a couple hundred photos.
@@JackBeasleyMedia the minor league team is wanting to charge an hourly rate and previously they weren’t paying the photographer for editing time. So im trying to figure out how to evenly split the photo time and editing time to fit their budget.
@@benberman4656 I'd figure at least double the photography time, but that's just me.
You mentioned that you prefer to convert to DNG (vs TIFF) for LR import because it offers a few additional options in LR. What are these options?
The reason I ask it that I shoot Canon and Canon DPP doesn't offer export in DNG format (TIFF, JPEG AND HEIF only).
I have the same problem with Nikon NX Studio, it won’t export in DNG. It’s not a major concern, you can still get good edits with TIFFs.
@@JackBeasleyMedia thanks
So Jack, I am curious. How many photos do you take at friday night lights? Do you cover JV and Varsity? I might shoot 1000 pics per game. Less at JV. You probably use this workflow for the low light sports? Once you upload, how long does it take to complete the editing start to finish with this proceedure you have shown? I strictly shoot Jpeg because editing time wears me out. I have no clue how people can do 1000 RAW. I accidently shot RAW a couple weeks ago and what a nightmare that was. Keep up the helpful videos. Thx
With football, yes, I'll cover both JV and varsity (but mostly varsity). As far as numbers per game, well over 1,000 frames, especially if I do warmups ahead of time. For low light sports, I use a somewhat different process shooting JPEG rather than RAW, which I explained in this video: th-cam.com/video/4zbTJAWVonU/w-d-xo.html
@@JackBeasleyMedia Hi Jack...I had a tough time trying to watch your July 5th video? The voice was jumping to the wrong spot at 1:22, so I restarted my laptop, tried a lot of things but could not make it work. Just figured it was my connection here. I just tried again and now cannot even access it? It says it is private now? I have been blocked lol Just an FYI
@@angelogarciajr5356 Hey Angelo, I was getting complaints about the audio so I set it to private and am in the process of re-uploading it. It should be visible shortly. Thanks for the feedback!
If you shoot JPEG fine then is it less steps. I didn't realize how many steps to edit. I am a amateur looking to someday get the courage to do for real but edit in my Mac. I'm overwhelmed by all these steps. If I had to pick 1 software for a beginner what would be best? Sorry for all the questions!
So what I took you through was getting the highest quality images possible. You can easily get away with shooting JPEG or RAW and going straight to Lightroom and get perfectly good images for most purposes. If you’re a Nikon shooter, you can shoot RAW do it all in Nikon NXD for free (it’s a RAW editor).
What version of photo mechanic do you recommend? Is Version good enough or do you need the Plus version?
Like I said in the video, I only use Photomechanic to cull photos. I just don't see the need for it to also catalog my photos. There are plenty of other ways to do that. So, the standard version is enough for me.
What kind of operating system do you use? Mine take one minute plus to process for each photo
You mean for Topaz Denoise? I’m running a Windows-based PC. It’s fairly high end, set up for gaming. Also, check to see if you’re using the latest version of Denoise, it’s quicker than the older version.
Do you have the pictures with no edit on it I would like to practice if you don’t mind?
When I do future editing videos I'll look at including some.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thanks
Hello did you shoot in jpeg and turned the photos into TIFF??
No. In this video, I demonstrated shooting in RAW and doing the first edits in Nikon's RAW editor. It's then saved as a TIFF to retain as many pixels as possible before moving on to the next step.
I am curious on why you use both Camera Raw and Lightroom, the entire editing interface is identical between them and in some settings, Camera Raw is better than Lightroom, depending on the version that you are use
I didn’t use Camera Raw. I used Nikon’s NX Studio for that first pass. You’re right, I wouldn’t bother with Adobe Camera Raw.
why did you change from tiff to dng?
Lightroom and Photoshop treat it as if it's a RAW photo and gives you a couple more options.
Thanks will try for my portfolio photos but personally it’s not practical regarding turn around when covering sports media related events
@@eastwoodmoor4508 Yep, I got that. If I'm in a time crunch, I'll cull in Photomechanic and finish off in LR.
I strongly disagree with using the camera mfgr's photo editor. This boxed photo editing software is for consumer users for quick easy editing without additional software costs, but very limited in features. Adobe Camera RAW, in both Lightroom and Photoshop, has made giant improvements in post editing including masking operations. In fact, this video is already antiquated, and should be updated for the current software features and technologies.
Please check out my more recent videos on editing sports photos using current software offerings.
Can I send you an email. I would love to ask you a question?
jack@jackbeasley.com