Hello Jeff, Excellent video. Very helpful and illustrative. I'm having difficulty removing my old drain and these options you show should allow me to successfully remove it. I had a question though on the tub drain. In the video at the 8:10 minute mark, you show the replacement tub drain (Danco mfr) that is still in the package with plastic threads, but the one that was actually installed (@ 8:51 on video) has metal threads. Am I missing something? Reason I'm asking is because I bought this same Danco tub drain that has plastic threads and I want to make sure that there isn't a disadvantage of using that instead of a metal threaded tub drain. Any response would be appreciated. Thanks again
Hi Jeff I ordered the drain removal tool from amazon with your link. Unfortunately it’s not the same anymore. It doors not have the provision to use a square socket on the inside to turn it.
Un attrezzo che un vero idraulico non usa mai perché per fare questo lavoro è sufficiente un giravite. Questa è solo propaganda per la vendita di un attrezzo inutile e dispendioso.
3-2024 - I have similar type old metal tub with similar drain issue. I have had 2 plumbers look at this drain to ask how to remove and replace and both said they didnt know exactly...and neither had any idea about what type of tool might be made, if any, to extract it! One was a 'part time plumber' and other was very young plumber....so thank you for showing us that there is actually an extraction tool and how to do it! I dont know how I got to this site 5 yrs after you made it ha, but it is something I am very happy to learn!
Oh my gosh it actually worked!! What amazing advice. We ended up using the drain removal tool and a heating gun. We never thought we were going to get that thing out of there.
@@jeffostroff Could I use a hairdryer for the heat. If so, for how long. I bought the drain removal tool but it won’t budge. I can’t afford a plumber. Thanks in advance! I will try the hair dryer. There must be a way.
I poured a large pan of boiling water over my drain before using the tool and a long wrench for torque. Worked great. Also used for the replacement install.
Thanks for the hot water idea. I thought I never get it out with my home made extractor. I was just about to give up and buy the real thing. Saved me $20.
Thank you! Was working tonight on an insanely stuck drain. I used the remover along with what felt like almost every other tool I had, broke 2 screwdrivers and nothing would budge it. Had a 2nd man working on it with me. Eventually took to it with a hair dryer and the heat made all the difference. Much appreciated!
What tool did you use to actually grip or take hold of the drain? My drain doesn't have the bottom 'x' piece to grab hold of and I tried using the round plug wrench that he used in the video but nothing would grab/grip the internal sides of the drain.
@@maverickcheston8874 I used the drain plug remover, as my rub did have the x piece for it to fit into. Sorry, not sure what to suggest if yours doesn't. Hacksaw?
Wink Rust Remover removes rust stains like magic. After the stain is gone, deactivate with baking soda and wash. Then some spot sealer or spot paint layer might be good enough for awhile.
I should have seen your video on how to remove an old drain on a bathtub before I went out and purchased some pliers. Even the manufacturer of the new drain told me to use pliers. I know now that I need to buy one of these drain wrenches . Thank you!
This video was a godsend!!! Honestly thank you so much for this video. And I can tell you when you are frustrated thanks muchly for the calming voice!!
Good tool to remove the rusted drain and much quicker. Obviously as you showed it, you cannot use the handle of a regular pliers to be inserted inside the rusted drain. Using a long nose plier (if you have one) and insert it into the drain pointing downward (not the handle) and turn it using a plier wrench might work to remove that rusted drain. Thanks for your video.
2:25 The pliers thing has always been mind boggling to me until my BIL(50 year master plumber) showed me the exact tool to use, and truth is, it’s a fantastic trick when you have them. They’re pliers you’ll find in a plumbing department or one of those 3 pair kits for plumbers. They’re adjustable water pump pliers and they have straight arms and fit perfectly in almost any tub drain. However, you’re 100% spot on about potentially ruining a perfectly good pair of pliers because that trick is not designed for stuck or difficult to remove drain assemblies. This is a wonderful video Jeff. You’re efficient, direct, you speak clearly and like a normal human using terms anyone can understand. You give just enough information to answer questions people have without going overboard. I didn’t have to fast forward through any part of this video which is a miracle 😂😂. You definitely gained a new follower today sir!! Keep up the great work and I’m not sure if you have affiliate links but if you do I would definitely use them to make sure you benefit from the purchase ♥️♥️
Wow, I'm glad I didn't put you to sleep with this video! 😄 Thank you for the feedback, I'll try to keep things interesting in future videos too. And don't worry, no pliers were harmed in the making of this video!
The heat did the job for me! My drain wrench does not have a place for the ratchet but I was able to get it loose with a plumbing wrench on the metal sides of the drain wrench. Thanks
Thanks for some good tips, Jeff. Sometimes one just has to see the proper usage of tools. As an aside, tho', I have at least three pair of pliers around the house that do not have coatings on them and have worked in the past.
Thanks a lot! I had a problem with a drain that was stuck for a fiberglass tub. The handyman refused to put pressure to screw it out because he said he “feared breaking the drain pipe below the tub.” Since our choice is to put the pressure on the reach and extractor tool, I suspect I will try your technique. If it should break, then we will have to remove a fiberglass tub built into the wall and replace it instead of just paying to have the tub re-surfaced (what we are trying to do). You are the only online explanation of the removal process for a “Stcuck Bathtub Drain Flange.”
As you said the pliers usually are not strong enough for this job but if you ever want to use it you should not inser the plastic coverd handle into the drain . Instead you should use the work end of the plier . The best plier for this would be a large straight needle nose plier.
That kind of stuff does not work. We usually bring in a contractor who sands down the whole tub, then primes it then sprays on a new ceramic coating guaranteed years, looks like a brand new tub afterwards for $200.
One million views and only 12,000 likes for this video - that's absurd... Your video just saved my life and my sanity. I was able to get mine out using the drain wrench combined with the pipe wrench. Thanks for the advice amigo. 👍
Needle nose pliers down in the drain with the needle nose going down rubber handles up, and channel locks used for torque works great too, also spray some wd 40 around the drain helps loosen it. That drain definitely looks like a pain to get out.
Needle nose should really only be used when the drain is not stuck. If the drain is stuck the 2 most common complaints we hear is the needle nose pliers break or the needle nose pliers shear through the spokes of the drain, because that is not the appropriate tool.
Thanks for the video. btw-They make special ceramic based paint(brush on) to touch up that rust. it may not last forever, but it will look a lot better with that new hardware and if sanded a little will stop the rust, unless it's coming from the bottom. also- the pointy end(not the handles) of a big set of needle nose pliers will remove almost any drain. If it is as hard as the one you had here, the a drain wrench is probably necessary. I recommend an impact tool on the drain wrench for removal only. It is a lot easier and impacts are cheap these days.
Normally we have a contractor that comes in in re glazes the tubs for us but this condo was so inexpensive and it just wasn't in the budget to do that normally cost about $200
Thanks for ths tip on the extractor. Didn't have a clue what I was doing 20 Years ago and broke a couple of the cross members. Now I know what to use. Thanks!!!
Great video, extractor tool worked well and got this vintage drain out! Glad I didn't have to cut it out and spend the time! Also as I was salvaging the rest of the plumbing in place and just needed to change the drain gasket (leaked) and plumbing puddy. I bought a cheap replacement drain at Lowes and tore-out the flimsy cross member when trying to tightening! I had to reuse this vintage drain over until I can get a replacement well made USA drain that wont break away when tightening!
plumber here for 34 years, and I've this tools many times, usually with my 10" wrench. but Ive had times when it break the inside of the drain, then its time to pull out the smaller recp saw.
Ok, I get why having the drain tool is good but you don't use the rubber end of the pliers, you use the plier's head. Then you can use another pair of pliers to turn it. I've done it, it works great. Watching you try to put the rubberized end of the pliers in the drain was crackin' me up!
Mine was the hardest even! Thanks for giving me the motivation to keep trying. I used a torch with locking pliers and a bug hammer then some WD-40 and some sweat and vuala! Thanks again
Thank you so much for this video. The cross members (thanks for naming them) broke and I thought I was $#!* out of luck. Your video showing what and how to use a tub drain removal tool gave me the idea to use the ball size of a large hammer, along with WD40 worked. Thank you for taking the time to do this video.
Nice job. A bigger pipe wrench would have done the trick easily. Or slip a cheater pipe over the end. An 18" pipe wrench usually gets those out like butter.
@@nitdiver5 the main problem is junk pot metal that corporations get away with.I suspect but am not truly sure that politicians get so much money from the corporations that these corporations can get away with selling us junk .
Yes, you have to make sure it does not slide off, but the new kits come with a replacement gasket, which if the original gasket looks worn, you might consider replacing it with the new one, very easy to slide it under there.
This happened to me years ago and I broke off the cross bars. Spent over an hour with a hacksaw blade, pliers and screwdriver to get that friggen thing out! 😂😂
Great video, Jeff. Between your video and the comments, I’ve learned a lot about tub drains and people! All kinds people. I liked Mr. Big’s comment that at some point, the trap or tailpiece could fracture. I removed a kitchen sink tailpiece from my 50 year old house with super-hard water, and it tore like paper! Sometimes more torque = more repairs and more $$. Thanks again!
Larry that's awesome glad to help out and yes you could learn a ton from the comments because we have people with lots of years experience that leaves some good advice.
@Mike Studmuffin I tighten the flange down until it is about flush with the tub surface. Once it engages into the threads of the drain pipe, you will not break it, because it screws straight down into it. The wrench we use is being tightened with a screwdriver around the center, so there is no side movement or wobbling, just a rotation around the center of the wrench.
Sharon McFarlane dude he was literally trying to show every trick in the book. Do you really think this was the hardest drain he has ever dealt with? Gullible
Ive replaced a few in my day had to cut some out someone used Dap for sealer you can't hardly bust that loose I use clear silicone never had a leak. Ive found sometimes if you try to thighten it first it helps to break it loose then back it out.
Porcafix repairs porcelian.... just like car chip repair ... since nail polish is enamel paint touch it up with that just mix polish to get exact color.. but they make specific repair fix for porcelain... never see it by drain..
Yup, I used a little two part mix (reminded me of Tester model paint) you mix the two, then repair your glazed areas. Here it the kit that I used for minor spot repair. amzn.to/2VFi8Ro I haven't used it yet, but I've heard great things about this whole tub refinisher kit. amzn.to/2X4q5Qm
FYI: if you are changing the drain in a tub that has been in use for 25 or more years, you might be better served with the hammer-in drain removal tool. The tee in the drain can become weakened and snap with the torque you apply, leaving you having to buy that tool eventually. It is only 5-8 dollars more and saves a lot of undue headaches.
I've had luck with vinegar and baking soda, which is used by metal detectorists sometimes to remove rust and corrosion. Maybe use a rubber plug to hold a small pool of solution around the outside of the drain so it has time to work. Or soak a rag in vinegar and let it sit a while. Great video. Very useful.
No it does not! A few people have said match enamel come on! You've never done it, so the real issue is you'll never match the white, and you'll never get enamel to stay and it will still look painted on. We have the whole tub sanded, and all those black circle dots from the rubber shower mat and reglazed and the entire tub looks brand new.
Very good Video!! I appreciate you taking the time to show all of the scenarios of what could go wrong and how to fix it quickly. Thanks for sharing your Talents with us!!!
they arent necessarily talking about the handle end of the pliers, perhaps they are talking about using long nose pliers with the handles up so you use the handles for what they were designed
Hi Jeff. Thank you for an awesome video. I’ve tried removing the drain in my mobile home with the tub drain wrench. However, the drain itself is keep spinning but won’t come out. I assume it has something to do with the thread. Is there any way I can get that stubborn spinning drain out? I appreciate any help.
What some people do at this point is maybe heated up with a torch see if that helps but if it's already spinning I think it's not going to help you much. What people do then is they use a Dremel tool and make a couple of slices on the interior of that flange being careful not to dig down too deep through the flange and hit the threads. Then they just break it open with a Flathead screwdriver and remove the flange out piece by piece
The 24" Ridgid is nice. That is the size I usually start with, working up to the 60" as needed. Rarely do I ever use the 14" or smaller, even at home. At home all I have is two 24".
Hi. I was removing a tub drain from a 1950's cast iron tub. I tried a heat gun, propane torch, and plumbers wrench and still did not come out. Finally I tried my demo jack hammer with a chisel bit and knocked the drain flange a few times counter clockwise obviously and it came undone and no damage to the tub. That worked for me.
@jeffostroff Great video. I have a 40 year old tub and will be replacing the tub drain hardware. The plumber I hired to put the shower trim and shut off valves wouldn't even touch it because of the corrosion. I ordered the removal tool. Funny, that'll take 2 weeks to receive a tool that costs 5 bucks. My local Home Depot doesn't even carry it. I'm crossing my fingers and hopefully I'd be able to remove it. I'm dreading the rust beneath it. Hopefully it comes of cleanly.
It's a difference in philosophy, I simply don't use touch up, it will mever match the tub, and it's garbage. I always reglaze the whole tub and it looks brand new. You'll never sell a condo with a tub that looks 50 years old except for a bright white spot at the bottom that looks obviously painted.
I like to use the pop up drain than the one you used. For the run around the drain, I’ve use a item named naval jelly. It looks like pink snot in the container. Put in on and wash off as per directions. It capsulate the rust. Pretty nice thing to use if you don’t want the pay $200+ to redo the tub.
Use a frickin' open-end wrench, inserted down into the drain bridging the + inside, then use a screwdriver in the box-end of the wrench as a handle to then unscrew the spud.
100% good again, use the dumbell is only way, and if or make out of copper tubing, if the dumbbell don't fit, that pliers trick just screws up your pliers, your're right about that. I used to do a lot of work in St Louis on I swear 150 year old tubs, the cross hairs break off, and the waste breaks off under the tub, then you have a delema, but no worries it's an opportunity to sell a new drain to practice your salesman skills.
If u never came across a tub drain that would not spin loose then you are the luckiest plumber in the world. I do all commercial work so doing a waste and overflow is flew and far between but I do a lot of them on the side for my own customers , you are lucky you didn’t spin the trap off of the waste and overflow’s tailpiece using all that torque , if it doesn’t come loose with that drain wrench and channel locks just cut it off with a sawzall from under the tub . I don’t know if there is a access panel behind that wall but there should be if there is another room back behind the bathroom, with a long saw blade cut between the tube and the shoe of the brass drain being careful not to cut the tub but it’s got that rubber gasket in there to give you a nice amount of space not to cut the steel or cast iron tub.
Yes, unfortunately, we were in a condo, concrete slab below the tub, no access underneath. I was read to use my dremel to slice into the side wall of that flange if it did not come off. Luckily I have never had to do that.
Hi Mr. Big, Thank you for your warning. My tub drain is stuck.and will not budge. I guess I will have to go under the house and cut the connection, but I am still left with having to get some of the threaded section out of the pipe leading to the trap. I would appreciate your recommendation.
The Way of Bonsai if you can get To behind the tub in like an access panel or get under the tub you should be able to carefully cut with a thin sawzall blade the threaded connection that holds your top chrome drain “ the piece You see everyday in the tub “ from the bottom “ shoe” that’s what that’s called , the piece coming from the drain hole in your tub to the tee that picks up the overflow pipe ...cut in between the bottom of your tub and the top of that “shoe “ you should see a black gasket between your tub and that shoe keep your blade close to the shoe and if you can’t watch what you’re cutting the whole time, like your blade isn’t long enough then stop and go buy a longer blade because you don’t want to cut into the tub body so go a little bit stop make sure you’re not cutting on a upward angle and when you get 3/4 of the way though u can get a flat screwdriver and pry the rest of the way until it breaks.Ok so now don’t just try to replace part of the tub drain go buy the whole waste and overflow kit they are cheap, like 75 dollars for a central brass brand and cut everything out including the trap until you have a clean piece of pipe ,when you reconnect they Sell no hub bands that adapt from every type of pipe , if you drain line is going into a Hub on the end of the pipe that’s a little more complicated.
This is the list of tools: ✅ Stuck tub drains tools used in this bathtub drain removal video: ✅ Pasco 4554 Dumbell Tub Drain Wrench: amzn.to/2W56ekr ✅ RIDGID 14" Heavy-Duty Plumbing Wrench: amzn.to/2T4g5Fd ✅ Channellock 12-Inch Pliers: amzn.to/2MdcnGR ✅ CRAFTSMAN 94 Piece Tool Set: amzn.to/2ASUBUA ✅ Superior Tool Tub Drain Extractor For Stuck Tub Drains: amzn.to/2MovI88
I use the el cheapo, bare handled pliers that I bought from the dollar store years ago to remove sink and tub drains. I don't see that kind of pliers in the stores anymore.
You don't have to use that much putty sometimes using too much putty can push that gasket out from between the tub shoe and tub so it won't seal as good. It wouldn't be a problem if the shoe is very tight or someone was holding it but most are kinda loose or on older homes theres a cheap rubber boot going from cast iron or copper going to flimsy pvc tubular it will need to be serviced sooner maybe it won't leak then but it won't last as long which could be a matter of years or even 10. I use between 1/4 to 1/2 inch depending on the way the drain is and that goes for sinks too bc you don't want to put so much putty that it restricts the overflow drain at the pop-up assembly. And the heat trick is an awesome trick for all kinds of stuff I use it alot! And also if you try to loosen something and it won't budge try breaking it loose by tightening it just need it to move a umm... frogs hair lol but mostly it will break loose to be able to back it out. Lol ignorance was a factor in that I was tightening it by mistake as an apprentice plumber after the plumber couldn't loosen and it was much easier i still use it today as a journeyman plumber
How tight do you have the new drain ? I am having trouble keeping the gasket seated. I tried using less putty and I tightened to only hand tight with the drain tool. I did twist it down tightly but only by hand , no wrench or screwdriver through the holes. My first try was loads of putty and really tight and the gasket pushed out on one side. Second try I stopped after seeing the gasket starting to squeeze out on a side again. Third time I tried less putty and only hand tighten. Still the gasket squeezed out a bit more on one side maybe an 1/8 th on one side and 1/16 th on the other so it seems better. Have not tried yet. Still fearful. Tub is on second floor.
I didn't have any of the cross things left at the bottom of my drain and didn't want to pay for some tool I'd only use once. What I did was get a big 1 1/4 socket (1/2 inch drive) and wrapped it in 2 layers of gorilla tape, tapped that into the drain, attached my ratchet and it came out really pretty easily.
I used 12' channel locks, I put each handle in a hole, then I put my flat bar aka pry bar between the handles, with a little elbow grease the drain came out in no time. The drain was installed 18 years ago.
Me too, but it did. I'm removing our 18 year old Whirlpool tub. A bigger problem, the plumber used some great stuff foam to support the bottom and now the tub is stuck to the floor. Any suggestions other than pouring gas one the foam lol ... Tomorrow I will be searching for some long flat steel to slide between the floor and the foam.
@@jeffostroff Thanks for the suggestion. The issue I had was the tub is a large jacuzzi drop in corner tub. It was glued via sprayed foamed and screwed to the floor during construction making the screws and foam out of my reach. Today I was able to cut through the foam and pop off the screws using an anchor strap, wedging the tub as I made progress. At last its free :-) This item save the day, had the reach I needed ... www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-PA-51-in-12-Gauge-ZMAX-Galvanized-Purlin-Anchor/1003095038
Ok, so what is your better tool? BTW, I guess since you're a troll, you didn't see all the comments from other people who saw this video and it helped fix their problem.
I broke a wrench, bent a couple open end wrenches, but I finally had my best results with heating it with a hair dryer. I then used an open end wrench turning it with a crescent wrench.
Thanks for the video...I would love to see a video or review on reglazing the tub. I’ve never had one done and am curious how well it holds up. We usually just end up ripping it out and replacing it but reglazing sounds like a cheaper alternative. Cheers!
wire wheel drill bit with some good rust removal will work. and if you hate the scratches on tub just add finger nail polish that matches tub color, or maybe not.
✅ Stuck tub drain tools used in this bathtub drain removal video: ✅
Pasco 4554 Dumbell Tub Drain Wrench: amzn.to/2W56ekr
RIDGID 14" Heavy-Duty Plumbing Wrench: amzn.to/2T4g5Fd
Channellock 12-Inch Pliers: amzn.to/2MdcnGR
CRAFTSMAN 94 Piece Tool Set: amzn.to/2ASUBUA
Superior Tool Tub Drain Extractor For Stuck Tub Drains: amzn.to/2MovI88
Hello Jeff,
Excellent video. Very helpful and illustrative. I'm having difficulty removing my old drain and these options you show should allow me to successfully remove it. I had a question though on the tub drain. In the video at the 8:10 minute mark, you show the replacement tub drain (Danco mfr) that is still in the package with plastic threads, but the one that was actually installed (@ 8:51 on video) has metal threads. Am I missing something? Reason I'm asking is because I bought this same Danco tub drain that has plastic threads and I want to make sure that there isn't a disadvantage of using that instead of a metal threaded tub drain. Any response would be appreciated. Thanks again
Rowland Burno fishing
Hi Jeff
I ordered the drain removal tool from amazon with your link. Unfortunately it’s not the same anymore. It doors not have the provision to use a square socket on the inside to turn it.
When said use pliers
They talking about needle pliers
And use it the other way no the handles😅😅🤦♂️
Un attrezzo che un vero idraulico non usa mai perché per fare questo lavoro è sufficiente un giravite. Questa è solo propaganda per la vendita di un attrezzo inutile e dispendioso.
3-2024 - I have similar type old metal tub with similar drain issue. I have had 2 plumbers look at this drain to ask how to remove and replace and both said they didnt know exactly...and neither had any idea about what type of tool might be made, if any, to extract it! One was a 'part time plumber' and other was very young plumber....so thank you for showing us that there is actually an extraction tool and how to do it!
I dont know how I got to this site 5 yrs after you made it ha, but it is something I am very happy to learn!
I'm glad the video was able to help you out with your drain issue!
I just use pliers without the handles coated. I am old and 5 out of 7 of my pliers have no cusions.
There not real plumbers then
Oh my gosh it actually worked!! What amazing advice. We ended up using the drain removal tool and a heating gun. We never thought we were going to get that thing out of there.
Awesome, and thanks for letting us know too it helps others see that it works.
@@jeffostroff Could I use a hairdryer for the heat. If so, for how long. I bought the drain removal tool but it won’t budge. I can’t afford a plumber. Thanks in advance! I will try the hair dryer. There must be a way.
@@Chloe-th2lgdid you get it out? Im desperate at this point 😩
I poured a large pan of boiling water over my drain before using the tool and a long wrench for torque.
Worked great.
Also used for the replacement install.
Great tip!
Thanks for the hot water idea. I thought I never get it out with my home made extractor. I was just about to give up and buy the real thing. Saved me $20.
This video was good, but the boiling water idea was great! Worked like a charm, thank you both 🎉
Yes, the boiling water idea saved me from having to call a plumber. Worked like a charm. Thank you!
Thank you! Was working tonight on an insanely stuck drain. I used the remover along with what felt like almost every other tool I had, broke 2 screwdrivers and nothing would budge it. Had a 2nd man working on it with me. Eventually took to it with a hair dryer and the heat made all the difference. Much appreciated!
Glad it helped Jonathan!
What tool did you use to actually grip or take hold of the drain? My drain doesn't have the bottom 'x' piece to grab hold of and I tried using the round plug wrench that he used in the video but nothing would grab/grip the internal sides of the drain.
@@maverickcheston8874 I used the drain plug remover, as my rub did have the x piece for it to fit into. Sorry, not sure what to suggest if yours doesn't. Hacksaw?
How did you use the heat? I tried a blow dryer for a few minutes and then the tub tool but it is just not budging AT ALL.
I got that beat. I have a 100 year old tub with the original brass drain that has never been replaced. That's going to be really fun to get out.
Hold my beer!
FINALLY- a vid that shows how to properly do this job. I’ve seen so many videos that are so amateur that are so frustrating to watch. Thanks!
Wow, thanks!
Wink Rust Remover removes rust stains like magic. After the stain is gone, deactivate with baking soda and wash. Then some spot sealer or spot paint layer might be good enough for awhile.
Will look into that next time, but usually these stains are 40 years old.
@@jeffostroff Appliance touchup paint works great.
I should have seen your video on how to remove an old drain on a bathtub before I went out and purchased some pliers. Even the manufacturer of the new drain told me to use pliers. I know now that I need to buy one of these drain wrenches . Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Needle nose pliers. Lol. And no, not the handles.
Thanks for the note about the heat gun! I was having a hell of a time and once I heated it up, it moved like butter. Thanks!
Awesome, glad to help out.
This video was a godsend!!! Honestly thank you so much for this video. And I can tell you when you are frustrated thanks muchly for the calming voice!!
You're so welcome!
I agree. I was having the same issues in this video. The heating tool did the trick! Thank you!!!
Good tool to remove the rusted drain and much quicker. Obviously as you showed it, you cannot use the handle of a regular pliers to be inserted inside the rusted drain. Using a long nose plier (if you have one) and insert it into the drain pointing downward (not the handle) and turn it using a plier wrench might work to remove that rusted drain. Thanks for your video.
Glad to help!
The removal wrench is necessary. It's cheap and does the job right. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for watching Eddie!
Thank you, sir. Using a pipe wrench along with the drain wrench did it for me. It was pretty tight in there. Worked great.
Yes! Helped save another one. Awesome that you were able to get it free using our video!
2:25 The pliers thing has always been mind boggling to me until my BIL(50 year master plumber) showed me the exact tool to use, and truth is, it’s a fantastic trick when you have them. They’re pliers you’ll find in a plumbing department or one of those 3 pair kits for plumbers. They’re adjustable water pump pliers and they have straight arms and fit perfectly in almost any tub drain. However, you’re 100% spot on about potentially ruining a perfectly good pair of pliers because that trick is not designed for stuck or difficult to remove drain assemblies.
This is a wonderful video Jeff. You’re efficient, direct, you speak clearly and like a normal human using terms anyone can understand. You give just enough information to answer questions people have without going overboard. I didn’t have to fast forward through any part of this video which is a miracle 😂😂.
You definitely gained a new follower today sir!! Keep up the great work and I’m not sure if you have affiliate links but if you do I would definitely use them to make sure you benefit from the purchase ♥️♥️
Wow, I'm glad I didn't put you to sleep with this video! 😄 Thank you for the feedback, I'll try to keep things interesting in future videos too. And don't worry, no pliers were harmed in the making of this video!
For the pliers, they meant to use the sharp end, so that it will fit. Great video thou! Thanks for sharing.
No they did not. We have the diagram on the instructions, and are in the middle of a new video showing it how wrong and stupid their drawing is.
So, perhaps the diagram on paper is wrong? Have yet to see it. But, the stupidity has to stop somewhere.
Specifically, a "needle nose" pliers.
The heat did the job for me! My drain wrench does not have a place for the ratchet but I was able to get it loose with a plumbing wrench on the metal sides of the drain wrench. Thanks
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks for some good tips, Jeff. Sometimes one just has to see the proper usage of tools. As an aside, tho', I have at least three pair of pliers around the house that do not have coatings on them and have worked in the past.
I might get a small set of needle nose, but I just hate using them for a task they aren't designed for!
Great video-my folks had this installed into their bathtub. Now they know how to remove it if it needs to be replaced.
Glad to help1
Thanks a lot! I had a problem with a drain that was stuck for a fiberglass tub. The handyman refused to put pressure to screw it out because he said he “feared breaking the drain pipe below the tub.” Since our choice is to put the pressure on the reach and extractor tool, I suspect I will try your technique. If it should break, then we will have to remove a fiberglass tub built into the wall and replace it instead of just paying to have the tub re-surfaced (what we are trying to do). You are the only online explanation of the removal process for a “Stcuck Bathtub Drain Flange.”
Glad to help Keith, let me know how it goes
As you said the pliers usually are not strong enough for this job but if you ever want to use it you should not inser the plastic coverd handle into the drain . Instead you should use the work end of the plier . The best plier for this would be a large straight needle nose plier.
Yes, on a loose drain, you will be OK.
I'm about to try and remove a 60-year-old drain. This video has been very helpful. I might be headed to the store for one of those drain wrenches.
Glad it helped
Ace Hardware has little porcelain appliance paint touch ups with little brushes- all different colors, almond, white, etc.
That kind of stuff does not work. We usually bring in a contractor who sands down the whole tub, then primes it then sprays on a new ceramic coating guaranteed years, looks like a brand new tub afterwards for $200.
@@jeffostroff Agree. I tried the touch up stuff once and it came off two weeks later.
One million views and only 12,000 likes for this video - that's absurd... Your video just saved my life and my sanity. I was able to get mine out using the drain wrench combined with the pipe wrench. Thanks for the advice amigo. 👍
Needle nose pliers down in the drain with the needle nose going down rubber handles up, and channel locks used for torque works great too, also spray some wd 40 around the drain helps loosen it. That drain definitely looks like a pain to get out.
Needle nose should really only be used when the drain is not stuck. If the drain is stuck the 2 most common complaints we hear is the needle nose pliers break or the needle nose pliers shear through the spokes of the drain, because that is not the appropriate tool.
Tool and heat gun worked! I’d almost given up. Thank you!!!!!
Glad to help!
Thanks for the video. btw-They make special ceramic based paint(brush on) to touch up that rust. it may not last forever, but it will look a lot better with that new hardware and if sanded a little will stop the rust, unless it's coming from the bottom. also- the pointy end(not the handles) of a big set of needle nose pliers will remove almost any drain. If it is as hard as the one you had here, the a drain wrench is probably necessary. I recommend an impact tool on the drain wrench for removal only. It is a lot easier and impacts are cheap these days.
Normally we have a contractor that comes in in re glazes the tubs for us but this condo was so inexpensive and it just wasn't in the budget to do that normally cost about $200
Tried and gave up.
I'm going to try your way. Thanks a million.
Thanks for ths tip on the extractor. Didn't have a clue what I was doing 20 Years ago and broke a couple of the cross members. Now I know what to use. Thanks!!!
Yes, we have used that extractor a few times, really nice.
Great video, extractor tool worked well and got this vintage drain out! Glad I didn't have to cut it out and spend the time! Also as I was salvaging the rest of the plumbing in place and just needed to change the drain gasket (leaked) and plumbing puddy. I bought a cheap replacement drain at Lowes and tore-out the flimsy cross member when trying to tightening! I had to reuse this vintage drain over until I can get a replacement well made USA drain that wont break away when tightening!
plumber here for 34 years, and I've this tools many times, usually with my 10" wrench. but Ive had times when it break the inside of the drain, then its time to pull out the smaller recp saw.
Takes a steady hand to get that recip going in that small diameter drain
I tried drain tub wrench w IMPACT DRIVER in reverse replacing the whole 58 room motel in a flash
@@cauut6152 taking care of business!
goog job, I will use this technique. I just ordered the extractor from Amazon and I will change mine this weekend. Thanks for the tips
Way to go John!
Ok, I get why having the drain tool is good but you don't use the rubber end of the pliers, you use the plier's head. Then you can use another pair of pliers to turn it. I've done it, it works great. Watching you try to put the rubberized end of the pliers in the drain was crackin' me up!
It was supposed to crack you up, I was making fun of Danco's instructions for the drain, which shows you doing it that way
@@jeffostroff so glad to see you were joking LOL i was cracking up
I would have spot treated the rust. Dremel down to bare steel then use appropriate paint. No harm and would look a lot better than the rust.
My pliers broke in half when I used the head
Mine was the hardest even! Thanks for giving me the motivation to keep trying. I used a torch with locking pliers and a bug hammer then some WD-40 and some sweat and vuala! Thanks again
Old School! I love it, you against the beast
What is the little cross thingy that the tool locks into is missing? My top drain is just a hole 😅
If that is missing then you need to get something like this: Superior Tool Tub Drain Extractor For Stuck Tub Drains: amzn.to/2MovI88
Thanks for the lesson. I was going to try and farmer Jerry rig my repair. I'm going to go get the right tools. Thanks again.
Thanks Jeff. Nicely explained!
Awesome, I'm glad you liked it!
Thank you so much for this video. The cross members (thanks for naming them) broke and I thought I was $#!* out of luck. Your video showing what and how to use a tub drain removal tool gave me the idea to use the ball size of a large hammer, along with WD40 worked. Thank you for taking the time to do this video.
Nice job. A bigger pipe wrench would have done the trick easily. Or slip a cheater pipe over the end. An 18" pipe wrench usually gets those out like butter.
Ty, very detailed video , For these rusty spots , if they are small , u can use finger nail polish , they are available in all colors to match the tub
Wish they were all that easy , I’ve had to cut them out with a reciprocating saw , very carefully .
Yes, sometimes they can get pretty narly!
When the crosshairs break I’ve used a flathead and a hammer and just slowly tapped it out. So far that hasn’t failed.
@@nitdiver5 the main problem is junk pot metal that corporations get away with.I suspect but am not truly sure that politicians get so much money from the corporations that these corporations can get away with selling us junk .
glad you had trouble because you can help us who might have this difficulty.
There is a gasket on the bottom side of the tub. Removing just the strainer runs the risk of damaging or repositioning that gasket.
Yes, you have to make sure it does not slide off, but the new kits come with a replacement gasket, which if the original gasket looks worn, you might consider replacing it with the new one, very easy to slide it under there.
Thanks man i had same problem in my house really stuck drain really hard I had to use the key you used and also the big pliers you used
Way to go Dog E!
"Frog hair more" love it... made me laugh!
Those frog hairs are very scientific measurements
Fantastic! Had a plummer who had no idea how to do this!!
Yes, we see that all the time
Great video! EXACTLY what I needed to see! Really appreciate your time in making it!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching Adam!
Great video and very informative.... we're doing the exact same thing to our tub
Glad it was helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
This happened to me years ago and I broke off the cross bars. Spent over an hour with a hacksaw blade, pliers and screwdriver to get that friggen thing out! 😂😂
Yes a common failure, I am working on a video for that
Great video, Jeff. Between your video and the comments, I’ve learned a lot about tub drains and people! All kinds people. I liked Mr. Big’s comment that at some point, the trap or tailpiece could fracture. I removed a kitchen sink tailpiece from my 50 year old house with super-hard water, and it tore like paper! Sometimes more torque = more repairs and more $$. Thanks again!
Larry that's awesome glad to help out and yes you could learn a ton from the comments because we have people with lots of years experience that leaves some good advice.
@Mike Studmuffin I tighten the flange down until it is about flush with the tub surface. Once it engages into the threads of the drain pipe, you will not break it, because it screws straight down into it. The wrench we use is being tightened with a screwdriver around the center, so there is no side movement or wobbling, just a rotation around the center of the wrench.
Prior to removal use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften up putty/silicone.
Yes, that is a good tip also, did not have a heat gun that day.
Hammer the extractor into the drain (gently) enough to get a tight fit, then use the ratchet.
Yup, that is what we do, it does nto tak emuch to get it to wedge into place.
Might work for some drains, but not a 1 1/2" Wouldn't grab onto the inside of the drain. Onto plan B.
Mrs. Fix It thanks you for solving this problem. Agreed, the pliers were useless. Now there bent and useless.
We are filming a newer video on changing drain flanges and will actually show different pliers and needle nose and why they should not be used.
Hopefully your kidding. Use the pointy end of the pliers ( needle nose)
I kept thinking....this is a college boy that has never replaced a drain in his life.
Try needle pliers and let me know how far you get on tough drain 😂😂
Ditto on the plier ends. Posted my comment before seeing yours.
Jesus christ SMH, I'm not even Christian
I just used needle nose pliers to do what he couldn't do hahahahahahaha.
The drain removal tool is a must if you do any work at all. It has saved my a** a few times! Nice video.
I own 2 of them, that's how important they are to me!
The pliers dont fit because you have the rubber coating, regular pliers without the coating fit just fine.
Sharon McFarlane dude he was literally trying to show every trick in the book. Do you really think this was the hardest drain he has ever dealt with? Gullible
@nineball26 crescent wrench, adjustable spanner, if youre on the otherside of the pond.
Ive replaced a few in my day had to cut some out someone used Dap for sealer you can't hardly bust that loose I use clear silicone never had a leak. Ive found sometimes if you try to thighten it first it helps to break it loose then back it out.
Dap would be a nightmare for me
Porcafix repairs porcelian.... just like car chip repair ... since nail polish is enamel paint touch it up with that just mix polish to get exact color.. but they make specific repair fix for porcelain... never see it by drain..
Yup, I used a little two part mix (reminded me of Tester model paint) you mix the two, then repair your glazed areas. Here it the kit that I used for minor spot repair. amzn.to/2VFi8Ro
I haven't used it yet, but I've heard great things about this whole tub refinisher kit. amzn.to/2X4q5Qm
This was crystal clear and highly useful! Thanks so much for making this available!
You are so welcome!
FYI: if you are changing the drain in a tub that has been in use for 25 or more years, you might be better served with the hammer-in drain removal tool. The tee in the drain can become weakened and snap with the torque you apply, leaving you having to buy that tool eventually. It is only 5-8 dollars more and saves a lot of undue headaches.
Yes that is why I always keep one in my tool bag
I've had luck with vinegar and baking soda, which is used by metal detectorists sometimes to remove rust and corrosion. Maybe use a rubber plug to hold a small pool of solution around the outside of the drain so it has time to work. Or soak a rag in vinegar and let it sit a while. Great video. Very useful.
Why not carefully wire brush the rust, spot prime and match with enamel ? It beats a glaze job
No it does not! A few people have said match enamel come on! You've never done it, so the real issue is you'll never match the white, and you'll never get enamel to stay and it will still look painted on. We have the whole tub sanded, and all those black circle dots from the rubber shower mat and reglazed and the entire tub looks brand new.
Very good Video!! I appreciate you taking the time to show all of the scenarios of what could go wrong and how to fix it quickly. Thanks for sharing your Talents with us!!!
You are welcome!
Thanks for the reglazing cost info. Always curious about that
Any time!
they arent necessarily talking about the handle end of the pliers, perhaps they are talking about using long nose pliers with the handles up so you use the handles for what they were designed
It was funny because their drawing on the instructions showed the real pliers
Very helpful and you sound like Bukowski, love it
Dude... Use the OTHER end of the pliers. Large needle nose work great.
Not enough torque and turning power when the drain is stuck, you need a drain wrench and something like a plumbing wrench to grip it perfectly.
@@jeffostroff You put the metal ends in and then use a wrench on the pivot of the pliers to get that torque.
Hi Jeff. Thank you for an awesome video. I’ve tried removing the drain in my mobile home with the tub drain wrench. However, the drain itself is keep spinning but won’t come out. I assume it has something to do with the thread. Is there any way I can get that stubborn spinning drain out? I appreciate any help.
What some people do at this point is maybe heated up with a torch see if that helps but if it's already spinning I think it's not going to help you much. What people do then is they use a Dremel tool and make a couple of slices on the interior of that flange being careful not to dig down too deep through the flange and hit the threads. Then they just break it open with a Flathead screwdriver and remove the flange out piece by piece
@@jeffostroff thank you. I’ll try that. Unfortunately I don’t have dremel but I’ve got a multitool. Hopefully that’ll work
You should get yourself a 24" wrench in your arsenal of tools, really makes your life easier.
I keep thinking that, but then the pipe wrench did its job
Ridgid Aluminum Pipe Wrench.
The 24" Ridgid is nice. That is the size I usually start with, working up to the 60" as needed. Rarely do I ever use the 14" or smaller, even at home. At home all I have is two 24".
Hi. I was removing a tub drain from a 1950's cast iron tub. I tried a heat gun, propane torch, and plumbers wrench and still did not come out. Finally I tried my demo jack hammer with a chisel bit and knocked the drain flange a few times counter clockwise obviously and it came undone and no damage to the tub. That worked for me.
going Old school on it! Love it.
did you have to go to walmart and spend $26.49 on a spankin' new ridgid 12" pipewrench?
I had that wrench for many years.
@@jeffostroff if you've had that pipe wrench for many years, you've never used it. Way too shiny for any use at all.
@jeffostroff
Great video. I have a 40 year old tub and will be replacing the tub drain hardware. The plumber I hired to put the shower trim and shut off valves wouldn't even touch it because of the corrosion. I ordered the removal tool. Funny, that'll take 2 weeks to receive a tool that costs 5 bucks. My local Home Depot doesn't even carry it. I'm crossing my fingers and hopefully I'd be able to remove it. I'm dreading the rust beneath it. Hopefully it comes of cleanly.
what about amazon Prime?
@@jeffostroff Ordered from Amazon. It would still take 2 weeks the least from the seller to ship it.
I was almost screaming to use touch up paint on the rust instead of redoing the entire tub. He should at least suggested it
It's a difference in philosophy, I simply don't use touch up, it will mever match the tub, and it's garbage. I always reglaze the whole tub and it looks brand new. You'll never sell a condo with a tub that looks 50 years old except for a bright white spot at the bottom that looks obviously painted.
I like to use the pop up drain than the one you used. For the run around the drain, I’ve use a item named naval jelly. It looks like pink snot in the container. Put in on and wash off as per directions. It capsulate the rust. Pretty nice thing to use if you don’t want the pay $200+ to redo the tub.
Yes, that is supposed to be a good rust remover
CLR works much better than Naval Jelly, which is now, "old school." Buy a quart.
Use a frickin' open-end wrench, inserted down into the drain bridging the + inside, then use a screwdriver in the box-end of the wrench as a handle to then unscrew the spud.
This one was way too stuck for that, we really needed that extra moment arm leverage from the wrenches.
100% good again, use the dumbell is only way, and if or make out of copper tubing, if the dumbbell don't fit, that pliers trick just screws up your pliers, your're right about that. I used to do a lot of work in St Louis on I swear 150 year old tubs, the cross hairs break off, and the waste breaks off under the tub, then you have a delema, but no worries it's an opportunity to sell a new drain to practice your salesman skills.
Good insights!
If u never came across a tub drain that would not spin loose then you are the luckiest plumber in the world. I do all commercial work so doing a waste and overflow is flew and far between but I do a lot of them on the side for
my own customers , you are lucky you didn’t spin the trap off of the waste and overflow’s tailpiece using all that torque , if it doesn’t come loose with that drain wrench and channel locks just cut it off with a sawzall from under the tub . I don’t know if there is a access panel behind that wall but there should be if there is another room back behind the bathroom, with a long saw blade cut between the tube and the shoe of the brass drain being careful not to cut the tub but it’s got that rubber gasket in there to give you a nice amount of space not to cut the steel or cast iron tub.
Yes, unfortunately, we were in a condo, concrete slab below the tub, no access underneath. I was read to use my dremel to slice into the side wall of that flange if it did not come off. Luckily I have never had to do that.
Hi Mr. Big, Thank you for your warning. My tub drain is stuck.and will not budge. I guess I will have to go under the house and cut the connection, but I am still left with having to get some of the threaded section out of the pipe leading to the trap. I would appreciate your recommendation.
The Way of Bonsai if you can get
To behind the tub in like an access panel or get under the tub you should be able to carefully cut with a thin sawzall blade the threaded connection that holds your top chrome drain “ the piece
You see everyday in the tub “ from the bottom “ shoe” that’s what that’s called , the piece coming from the drain hole in your tub to the tee that picks up the overflow pipe ...cut in between the bottom of your tub and the top of
that “shoe “ you should see a black gasket between your tub and that shoe keep your blade close to the shoe and if you can’t watch what you’re cutting the whole time, like your blade isn’t long enough then stop and go buy
a longer blade because you don’t want to cut into the tub body so go a little bit stop make sure you’re not cutting on a upward angle and when you get 3/4 of the way though u can get a flat screwdriver and pry the rest of the way until it breaks.Ok so now don’t just try to replace part of the tub drain go buy the whole waste and overflow kit they are cheap, like 75 dollars for a central brass brand and cut everything out including the trap until you have a clean piece of pipe ,when you reconnect they
Sell no hub bands that adapt from every type of pipe , if you drain line is going into a Hub on the end of the pipe that’s a little more complicated.
@@mrbig4532 Unfortunately this was in a condo with a cement slab floor beneath it no way to get to it
that was a saver. Thanks. I just didn't know how much force I could put on there.
glad to help!
Milwaukee makes channel locks that's made for drains
Thank you for your info. What is a right tools for the right job.
This is the list of tools:
✅ Stuck tub drains tools used in this bathtub drain removal video:
✅ Pasco 4554 Dumbell Tub Drain Wrench: amzn.to/2W56ekr
✅ RIDGID 14" Heavy-Duty Plumbing Wrench: amzn.to/2T4g5Fd
✅ Channellock 12-Inch Pliers: amzn.to/2MdcnGR
✅ CRAFTSMAN 94 Piece Tool Set: amzn.to/2ASUBUA
✅ Superior Tool Tub Drain Extractor For Stuck Tub Drains: amzn.to/2MovI88
There is a tool called Drain Key. much easier to remove the drain plug.
We sowed it in this video, the drain wrench
I use the el cheapo, bare handled pliers that I bought from the dollar store years ago to remove sink and tub drains. I don't see that kind of pliers in the stores anymore.
I bought a new set of needle nose but still refuse to use them since I have this awesome drain wrench
what a dope
Don't be so hard on yourself!
I have used my classic channel lock pliers with no rubber coating for drain removal, and they fit fine. The drain tool works better though.
Thanks for posting, very helpful...Yeshua (Jesus Christ) is the way
You don't have to use that much putty sometimes using too much putty can push that gasket out from between the tub shoe and tub so it won't seal as good. It wouldn't be a problem if the shoe is very tight or someone was holding it but most are kinda loose or on older homes theres a cheap rubber boot going from cast iron or copper going to flimsy pvc tubular it will need to be serviced sooner maybe it won't leak then but it won't last as long which could be a matter of years or even 10. I use between 1/4 to 1/2 inch depending on the way the drain is and that goes for sinks too bc you don't want to put so much putty that it restricts the overflow drain at the pop-up assembly. And the heat trick is an awesome trick for all kinds of stuff I use it alot! And also if you try to loosen something and it won't budge try breaking it loose by tightening it just need it to move a umm... frogs hair lol but mostly it will break loose to be able to back it out. Lol ignorance was a factor in that I was tightening it by mistake as an apprentice plumber after the plumber couldn't loosen and it was much easier i still use it today as a journeyman plumber
Yes, I use the heat trick on cast iron pipe threads too
How tight do you have the new drain ? I am having trouble keeping the gasket seated. I tried using less putty and I tightened to only hand tight with the drain tool. I did twist it down tightly but only by hand , no wrench or screwdriver through the holes. My first try was loads of putty and really tight and the gasket pushed out on one side. Second try I stopped after seeing the gasket starting to squeeze out on a side again. Third time I tried less putty and only hand tighten. Still the gasket squeezed out a bit more on one side maybe an 1/8 th on one side and 1/16 th on the other so it seems better. Have not tried yet. Still fearful. Tub is on second floor.
I didn't have any of the cross things left at the bottom of my drain and didn't want to pay for some tool I'd only use once. What I did was get a big 1 1/4 socket (1/2 inch drive) and wrapped it in 2 layers of gorilla tape, tapped that into the drain, attached my ratchet and it came out really pretty easily.
I will have to use the tools and technique at 6:32 to remove my stuck plug. That should work after trying many things that did not work. Thanks
Did it work?
@@jeffostroff I haven't tried it yet.
Great video. I have a drain in a rental property that is missing the cross members. I’ll have to get the extractor tool. Thanks.
Super Video - can't wait to attempt this project now - Many Thanks
Awesome, let us know if it helps in your project Wes!
Cool! Specialized tools. Always makes the difference. Thx, man.
I used 12' channel locks, I put each handle in a hole, then I put my flat bar aka pry bar between the handles, with a little elbow grease the drain came out in no time. The drain was installed 18 years ago.
I am surprised the channelock handles fit in there.
Me too, but it did. I'm removing our 18 year old Whirlpool tub. A bigger problem, the plumber used some great stuff foam to support the bottom and now the tub is stuck to the floor. Any suggestions other than pouring gas one the foam lol ... Tomorrow I will be searching for some long flat steel to slide between the floor and the foam.
@@theDeitz get large floor scraper, or use multi tool or angle grinder, or handheld drywall rasping knife
@@jeffostroff Thanks for the suggestion. The issue I had was the tub is a large jacuzzi drop in corner tub. It was glued via sprayed foamed and screwed to the floor during construction making the screws and foam out of my reach. Today I was able to cut through the foam and pop off the screws using an anchor strap, wedging the tub as I made progress. At last its free :-) This item save the day, had the reach I needed ... www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-PA-51-in-12-Gauge-ZMAX-Galvanized-Purlin-Anchor/1003095038
lots of good tips
Thanks, glad you liked it and thanks for watching
That is a good tool for installing them. There is a much better tool for removing them. People like you keep people like me in business
I can just imagine how many people are going to watch this, mess up their own stuff, and then search for a better video. Sorry.
Ok, so what is your better tool? BTW, I guess since you're a troll, you didn't see all the comments from other people who saw this video and it helped fix their problem.
I broke a wrench, bent a couple open end wrenches, but I finally had my best results with heating it with a hair dryer. I then used an open end wrench turning it with a crescent wrench.
Thanks for the video...I would love to see a video or review on reglazing the tub. I’ve never had one done and am curious how well it holds up. We usually just end up ripping it out and replacing it but reglazing sounds like a cheaper alternative. Cheers!
I think I might have enough footage to do one, we have taken some photos over the years and video, maybe enough to make one.
HD should have epoxy appliance paint, sand off any rusty area, spray on, it may not look very good but it will last another 5 yrs.
Nevermind. It seems my old drain is stripped. Awesome. Now I don’t even know if I can use this tub any longer. Just wonderful!
If you can get the old drain out, you can keep the tub
Yah if I crawl under mfg and try that way. Not happening!
wire wheel drill bit with some good rust removal will work. and if you hate the scratches on tub just add finger nail polish that matches tub color, or maybe not.
What I like is a new drain flange, so I'll fight tooth and nail to make it happen. I win the battle every time.
Thanks .. My house has two tubs and a shower great tool
The tubs I work on have no 'X' crossbar to grab onto with the drain wrench. Just a round hole. It's a 30 unit apartment Bldg.
What would you suggest?
this is what I use: Superior Tool Tub Drain Extractor For Stuck Tub Drains: amzn.to/2MovI88
@@jeffostroff Thank you, thank you, thank you. : )
Got it, $13.49 @ Amazon thanks again.
I have tired drain extractors and when one is really stuck it will. remove the metal around the drain and it's still stuck