This was a really nice build for me. It requires a fairly flat surface. I used it in a school gym and it would be great for a gym racetrack with an all Badger race. Well designed.
This could genuinely be a track monster with most of its weight in the front which aids with front tire/corner grip as well as braking. really nice design and build!
Well filmed video. I built one in the spring, its decent. I used the top brace modded by another builder that relocated the switch mount to the middle of the brace. My shocks need a bit of tuning as it handles the bumps poorly at the kamloops rc track. For those that wish to jump one, be sure to hold a little throttle on in the air, or it will nose dive bad. the fun part about it is that on a slippery suface it will NOT spin out. I used aluminum hex's on the rear as the printed ones break where it meets the bearing. Im going to mod mine to mount the rear shocks at a 30ish degree angle like most fwd cars. I also built the M chassis which is basicly the same car for onroad, it is nearly silent, and my badger slightly louder, 32 pitch printed petg gears.
Oh sweet, you race in Kamloops! Hello fellow British Columbian! I'm in Salmon Arm and keep meaning to get up that way for some racing. Glad to hear someone else locally has been building and testing these cool cars.
The ones I used were 90mm and 70mm from here: rcprinter.com/products/injora-aluminum-dual-spring-shocks But I'm sure you could make many different shocks fit. Build guide calls for 85-90mm front and 68mm rear when measured eye to eye.
The Badger is my 2nd 3d printer RC car based on your Videos, the first was the Tarmo5. I am having issues with the printed pully for the Steel Diff, it seems to have a bunch of thin layers on the face with the screw holes. Did you have this issue? I have printed 3, 2 in PETG and one in PLA all have cracked or split. Was this part any different than the one for the MK Ultra?
Hey, ya I seem to remember having that issue at first but I can't quite remember how I fixed it. Looking back at my files I think I just reprinted it and it came out better the 2nd time. Maybe try re-printing at a smaller layer height.
If you download the files from cults3d there is a BOM document in there that tells you what you is required and has links on where to get them. I usually get my stuff on amazon or aliexpress though if I don't carry it at www.rcprinter.com. IMO the best place to get bearings is our bulk bearings shop here: rcprinter.com/collections/bulk-bearings You can just chose any amount of any size and you should be able to order exactly what you need. There are links in the video description to lots of the other stuff I used in the build.
Hi, Been watching your vids and they are great, but, is there any chance of seeing how you support body panels as I can't see any signs of where supports have been or have you sanded them smooth and then painted them. I want to print their Landrover so wondered if you can help with any advice. Thanks and Happy new year.
btw, i found that the front half of the body printed thin, i had to reinforce mine with a skim of shoe goo the strengthen it up. Your results may vary. @@markIburgess
Hey if you're printing the landrover "landy" from 3dsets all supports come pre-added in the build plates so you don't need to worry about them. All the 3dsets cars I do are unpainted and its just filament coloring because they're already really detailed so I don't feel like they need it. For the badger body as others have mentioned I didn't use supports. I didn't use a brim either although that would probably be recommended and the body here definitely could use a coat of paint!
have u thought of casting spurs/pinions rather than printing? someone said to me that polymorph is stronger than nylon haha i thought it might be worth a shot
@@rcprinter i've seen diy injection molding on youtube, its a little involved. Machined POM gears seem fairly common, but then again so are steel gears, they're not 3d printed. All fairly difficult to do at home
This was a really nice build for me. It requires a fairly flat surface. I used it in a school gym and it would be great for a gym racetrack with an all Badger race. Well designed.
This could genuinely be a track monster with most of its weight in the front which aids with front tire/corner grip as well as braking.
really nice design and build!
Thanks! I can't take credit for the design though... that's all this guy: cults3d.com/en/users/tahustvedt/3d-models
Hence why they were banned years ago and no RC Manufacturers make them anymore.
Well filmed video. I built one in the spring, its decent. I used the top brace modded by another builder that relocated the switch mount to the middle of the brace. My shocks need a bit of tuning as it handles the bumps poorly at the kamloops rc track. For those that wish to jump one, be sure to hold a little throttle on in the air, or it will nose dive bad. the fun part about it is that on a slippery suface it will NOT spin out.
I used aluminum hex's on the rear as the printed ones break where it meets the bearing. Im going to mod mine to mount the rear shocks at a 30ish degree angle like most fwd cars. I also built the M chassis which is basicly the same car for onroad, it is nearly silent, and my badger slightly louder, 32 pitch printed petg gears.
Oh sweet, you race in Kamloops! Hello fellow British Columbian! I'm in Salmon Arm and keep meaning to get up that way for some racing. Glad to hear someone else locally has been building and testing these cool cars.
Surprisingly, it's not that bad for front-wheel drive. Nice build👍.
Thanks man! Its fun to drive.
Nice design and build. 👍
Nice! I am building a Badger currently!
Nice!
Magnifique une dinguerie en plus en traction svp power 😁
How long are the shocks? Aren't they 2 different sizes? Can you use traxxas slash or rustler shocks? Thanks
90mm front. 68mm rear
The ones I used were 90mm and 70mm from here: rcprinter.com/products/injora-aluminum-dual-spring-shocks But I'm sure you could make many different shocks fit. Build guide calls for 85-90mm front and 68mm rear when measured eye to eye.
The Badger is my 2nd 3d printer RC car based on your Videos, the first was the Tarmo5. I am having issues with the printed pully for the Steel Diff, it seems to have a bunch of thin layers on the face with the screw holes. Did you have this issue? I have printed 3, 2 in PETG and one in PLA all have cracked or split. Was this part any different than the one for the MK Ultra?
Hey, ya I seem to remember having that issue at first but I can't quite remember how I fixed it. Looking back at my files I think I just reprinted it and it came out better the 2nd time. Maybe try re-printing at a smaller layer height.
Nice build Can you give some réfrence fort some scrw bearing exc....
If you download the files from cults3d there is a BOM document in there that tells you what you is required and has links on where to get them. I usually get my stuff on amazon or aliexpress though if I don't carry it at www.rcprinter.com. IMO the best place to get bearings is our bulk bearings shop here: rcprinter.com/collections/bulk-bearings You can just chose any amount of any size and you should be able to order exactly what you need. There are links in the video description to lots of the other stuff I used in the build.
Are you going to offer them to buy?😁
Hi, Been watching your vids and they are great, but, is there any chance of seeing how you support body panels as I can't see any signs of where supports have been or have you sanded them smooth and then painted them.
I want to print their Landrover so wondered if you can help with any advice.
Thanks and Happy new year.
no support needed, i just used a big brim. yes you need to sand it a bit at least, 400 grit works
@@traileater Thanks.
btw, i found that the front half of the body printed thin, i had to reinforce mine with a skim of shoe goo the strengthen it up. Your results may vary.
@@markIburgess
Hey if you're printing the landrover "landy" from 3dsets all supports come pre-added in the build plates so you don't need to worry about them. All the 3dsets cars I do are unpainted and its just filament coloring because they're already really detailed so I don't feel like they need it. For the badger body as others have mentioned I didn't use supports. I didn't use a brim either although that would probably be recommended and the body here definitely could use a coat of paint!
Do you have build kit for this model on your website?
Sorry not this one.
Nice build done good played hard
Is it spinning out all the time? I hear it getting louder but not going much faster.
It's powered by a Brushed Motor and geared for torque not for high speeds, as it is well suited for a short track.
What diff is that you use bud
rcprinter.com/products/1-10-scale-rc-metal-differential-for-mkultra
print a ramp for it
FWD.. Buggy!? Odd concept, but I see there's something like it called the Orb
have u thought of casting spurs/pinions rather than printing? someone said to me that polymorph is stronger than nylon haha i thought it might be worth a shot
Casting would be a great idea but no I've never tried it. Printed gears generally don't last too long although I'd like to try some good nylon.
@@rcprinter i've seen diy injection molding on youtube, its a little involved. Machined POM gears seem fairly common, but then again so are steel gears, they're not 3d printed. All fairly difficult to do at home
It’s almost like a bunch of legos with screws in them
Ya its like legos for adults :) Super fun. I enjoy building these as much as driving them.
@@rcprinter don't you think the time spent printing & building vs actual driving is too skewed for all cars you tried?
So yea please build it and maybe find some mods