This is a good video - the point that the kit fits together is the most important one. When I moved from an 1/2" to the 3/8 we had to replace all the prussiks in our kit as they simply didn't grab.
@@GearGarageTV Am currently using the 6mm Auto Block from Sterling in my kit, really like it :) Own one hollowblock, need to try it in the field but looks good.
My only comment on components, primarily from climbing, is that screw-type carabiners are prone to seizing with sand or ice more than auto-lockers. They can seize also just under high tension and are not common anymore in technical climbing (full body harness type climbing). They can always be un-seized with some work, but they can certainly be a frustration. Love the videos and I have been binging them since I recently picked up a raft to get back into rowing.
I love your videos. Thank you for posting all the great content. The link to your amazon list seems to be broken. Is your list still available somewhere?
Zach, the components of a safety/wrap kit definitely should be be bought together. Not only because you need to confirm they work well together, but because not having that "one thing" on the river is life-endangering. There can be a tendency to buy piecemeal and "spread out the cost", but it's just not worth a life. In addition to the pull-off system, it's probably best to have a blade in the kit. Not everyone wears them, and if you're taking guests on the boat, they are probably not as fully outfitted.
Wraps are not life-endagering. The vast majority of uses of "safety/wrap kits" are for equipment retrieval. Also a partial kit can be used for a variety of useful systems like 2:1s, vector pulls, and redirects. Not everyone always needs a full wrap kit.
@@GearGarageTV Zach, love your videos. I'm wondering if you could give your thoughts or make a video on when to bring a full wrap kit vs a partial kit for non-commercial trips. Right now, I bring the equipment you showed except I bring 2 x 15ft sections of webbing instead of 30ft and I use a hefty nrs pro throw rope as a stand in for a static line. I generally accept that we may have to leave equipment (even though that would be expensive and suck!). For context, I'm a rec boater who goes on a good number of multi-day trips that typically have class II-IV rapids. The group usually has a wide variety of experience levels, novice to a class IV boater (to use your lingo).
Any thoughts on Gibbs mechanical rope clamps instead of prusiks? With big line they are pretty slick, and eliminate what is usually the weak point in the system. When I go to smaller diameter line, I like the Sterling Hollow blocks for friction hitches. That also gives the option to tie lower friction Bachman knots instead of kleimheists or prusiks, without worrying about having prusik minding pulleys. I also like using wire gate carabiners whenever I have the option. I use lockers for master points on big anchors, but that’s about it. Wiregates are just immune to sand and rust. Nice to know ‘biners won’t fight you, esp on gear that you probably don’t pull out all that often. Lower price is a bonus.
I'm sure those Gibbs clamps work great but I personally would avoid using them for 2 reasons: (1) Most boaters are not trained to use them or know what they are for. I prefer using standard items that everyone understands how to use even if it is inferior. (2) In a mechanical advantage system the prusiks can act as a circuit breaker. They generally break before something more dangerous breaks. The Gibbs product you mentioned is stronger than a prusik which could lead to more catastrophic (and dangerous) failure if the loads are too big.
@@GearGarageTV Great point about the circuit breaker, never thought of it that way. Smart to put a damper on the line just downstream of the prusiks for exactly that reason
can you please do a review on that mustang survival pfd, I have been looking at it and really like out sleek it is.Think it would be a nice small river pfd comparing it to the NRS ninja
I've been meaning to do that video for a while. Here it is th-cam.com/video/1UIMKHOCaUs/w-d-xo.html If you want sleek check out the Astral YTV. Mustang is working on some really nice PFDs for whitewater right now.
This is a good video - the point that the kit fits together is the most important one. When I moved from an 1/2" to the 3/8 we had to replace all the prussiks in our kit as they simply didn't grab.
The Sterling prusiks I mention are nice beause they fit a wide variety of rope sizes.
@@GearGarageTV Am currently using the 6mm Auto Block from Sterling in my kit, really like it :) Own one hollowblock, need to try it in the field but looks good.
My only comment on components, primarily from climbing, is that screw-type carabiners are prone to seizing with sand or ice more than auto-lockers. They can seize also just under high tension and are not common anymore in technical climbing (full body harness type climbing). They can always be un-seized with some work, but they can certainly be a frustration.
Love the videos and I have been binging them since I recently picked up a raft to get back into rowing.
I love your videos. Thank you for posting all the great content. The link to your amazon list seems to be broken. Is your list still available somewhere?
Yes here's the updated list amzn.to/3If0hdR
Zach, the components of a safety/wrap kit definitely should be be bought together. Not only because you need to confirm they work well together, but because not having that "one thing" on the river is life-endangering. There can be a tendency to buy piecemeal and "spread out the cost", but it's just not worth a life. In addition to the pull-off system, it's probably best to have a blade in the kit. Not everyone wears them, and if you're taking guests on the boat, they are probably not as fully outfitted.
Wraps are not life-endagering. The vast majority of uses of "safety/wrap kits" are for equipment retrieval. Also a partial kit can be used for a variety of useful systems like 2:1s, vector pulls, and redirects. Not everyone always needs a full wrap kit.
@@GearGarageTV Zach, love your videos. I'm wondering if you could give your thoughts or make a video on when to bring a full wrap kit vs a partial kit for non-commercial trips. Right now, I bring the equipment you showed except I bring 2 x 15ft sections of webbing instead of 30ft and I use a hefty nrs pro throw rope as a stand in for a static line. I generally accept that we may have to leave equipment (even though that would be expensive and suck!). For context, I'm a rec boater who goes on a good number of multi-day trips that typically have class II-IV rapids. The group usually has a wide variety of experience levels, novice to a class IV boater (to use your lingo).
Any thoughts on Gibbs mechanical rope clamps instead of prusiks? With big line they are pretty slick, and eliminate what is usually the weak point in the system.
When I go to smaller diameter line, I like the Sterling Hollow blocks for friction hitches. That also gives the option to tie lower friction Bachman knots instead of kleimheists or prusiks, without worrying about having prusik minding pulleys.
I also like using wire gate carabiners whenever I have the option. I use lockers for master points on big anchors, but that’s about it. Wiregates are just immune to sand and rust. Nice to know ‘biners won’t fight you, esp on gear that you probably don’t pull out all that often. Lower price is a bonus.
I'm sure those Gibbs clamps work great but I personally would avoid using them for 2 reasons:
(1) Most boaters are not trained to use them or know what they are for. I prefer using standard items that everyone understands how to use even if it is inferior.
(2) In a mechanical advantage system the prusiks can act as a circuit breaker. They generally break before something more dangerous breaks. The Gibbs product you mentioned is stronger than a prusik which could lead to more catastrophic (and dangerous) failure if the loads are too big.
@@GearGarageTV Great point about the circuit breaker, never thought of it that way. Smart to put a damper on the line just downstream of the prusiks for exactly that reason
can you please do a review on that mustang survival pfd, I have been looking at it and really like out sleek it is.Think it would be a nice small river pfd comparing it to the NRS ninja
I've been meaning to do that video for a while. Here it is th-cam.com/video/1UIMKHOCaUs/w-d-xo.html
If you want sleek check out the Astral YTV. Mustang is working on some really nice PFDs for whitewater right now.
Perfect timing. I have not purchased a rope yet. The rope in your link is 11mm or 7/16, and comes in 300'. Correct?
Yep unfortunately that rope only comes in those long lengths. Here's another rope that I like sterlingrope.com/store/work/ropes/static/htp/1-2-htp.
Would you mind posting the notes/ z drag notes that you keep in your kit?
Here's a blog post that has most of it www.nwrafting.com/articles/safety-kits-a-handy-checklist
1st like!