I go through and rewatch all your videos over the year and catch new things everytime as I learn more. I just caught new things tonight that will change how I rig my boats. Thanks Zach for your efforts to put these videos together. You've created a massive resource for the community.
Cams straps did not exist when I started, so we used tubular hoopie. I tied a figure 8 or bowline to make a small loop in the end of 12 ft sections that I could girth onto the frame or a D ring. You can get a lot more tension if you interconnect your webbing and use a vector pull like technique to tension it. I used "triangles" a lot to keep things tight and in place and to add more tension to my straps. We used to make our own "spider web" gear lofts to keep the gear off the bottom of bucket boat floors by weaving the webbing onto d rings and the frame at the put in. I like to get my webbing ties wet first for max tension. Now I buy the "fatty" 1 1/2" straps for important stuff, like frames, heavy coolers & boxes. I have never liked the loop straps as they are hard to get tight. I girth hitch pairs of straps to frame for coolers and boxes and adjust the location of the buckle to hang just over the edge of cooler lid so it is out of my way and accessible and it provides a 2:1 mechanical advantage over the loop straps. For the spare, I like blade forward and rig a loop with a short strap around the blade about 18" back from the oar tip that remains "fixed. Then I use a 2 ft strap girth hitched to the frame that wraps around the oar just behind the stopper, so it will not get loose. Then if I need it, I just open the rear cam to release the oar and grab the handle, slip it back out of the front loop and in a micro second, I have the spare into my oarlock. Time matters and no need to be trying to undo 2 cams at once and risk losing the spare in big water or rocky shallows. I use a beaver tail to keep the load off the floor and the weight on the tubes. Heavy items towards center of boat and light items at the tail for quick turning. I like my weight 60/ 40 back to front for back ferry and downstream ferry moves. Or 50/50 for shallow technical rivers. Tie off loose straps ends for safety. I see everyone using those rigging nets and bags these days, but I see many gaps for things to slip out and a ton of wasted space as they are not compressed like you can do with straps. I like to clip a throwbag onto base of each oar tower so always handy, and if boat is upside down, I know exactly where to find it for a flip line. I like to put the knot of the throwbag end loop inside the bag, then tighten the cord so the loop does not come out in a flip and also thread the short strap with the release buckle through the loop to also help keep the rope inside the bag. These are just my personal preferences, many ways to rig a boat and they all work if you do it so you don't loose or damage gear or create a safety hazard. I like your red ECHO drybag, I worked for them in Salmon in 81 and 97, lots of memories.
Great vidz zack! I use to put the spare blade forward because I like the look, too. I realized, though that having the blade in back makes for an easier spare oar grab from the captain’s seat. With the blade in the back, you only have to release one cam. Reach to the side and release the cam next to the blade, then pull the handle out of the front strap. No need to climb up to the bow for that second strap.
I think that having the blade back or forward having an effect on making the oar grab easier is highly dependent on each individual set up. Boat setups are very different these days so how everyone rigs it will depend on their own setup. When in doubt go with the thing that looks cool.
Custom to my boat, overly engineered homemade "barny bag" ... best investment I have ever made in regards to rigging. One zipper and pull two straps (straps zig zigs to d-rings on both sides of the zipper every 8" to hold actual load) load secured. Now I can load boat faster than people can bring me bags to load.
There are a few days to do this. One is to have a hatch where these items are carried in a big mesh bag hanging from a frame and covered by a table or other hatch cover. The other is to run a deck in the rowers area or in the back of the boat for hard items to sit on. Some things like plastic toilets can run on the floor. We generally hang our coolers from the frame with straps.
Great video that is very helpful in planning our first overnight trip for our family of six. Do you use a beaver tail or anything in the stern of the boat to keep the bags off the floor?
The gear on the back of your boat? Do you have it directly on the floor? I have a 14ft rmr raft and I am debating if I should get something to raise the bags off the floor of my raft and put their weight on the tubes? I have a dropstich floor idk if that matters?
Sometimes on the floor and sometimes on an elevated platform we refer to as a beaver tail. It depends on what the gear is and what type of river we're on.
Do you like nets over the bags? I've used them a few times and they are pretty diverse. A big enough net, folded in half can get 'perma rigged' and act like a sling. Meanwhile the second half can fold over the top of your gear, and get laced tight from D-ring to D-ring. It keeps weight off the floor and is easy to rig
I personally don't mostly because I've never used them and am resistant to new things. Here are the downsides I see are (1) It's an extra piece of gear generally custom built for a particular boat that needs to be packed and repaired, (2) Some of them create additional entrapment hazards, and (3) They assume a particular amount of gear in the back so they're not as versatile as straps.
I like the multi 6 foot cam strap method on the stern bags. You ever see one of those pull apart? Perhaps in a wrap situation? Also, it looks like you have a heavy insulated cooler (Yeti style) on your boat there. I assume you have decided that the extra weight and reduced capacity (vs an Igloo Marine) is worth it for the added insulation? Have you done any shows on coolers?
I've never seen bags come off on their own but I have seen them poorly rigged and an absolute mess that makes the wrap/flip situation more difficult to deal with. Yes the extra weight of the cooler is definitely worth it. We used classic rubbermaid coolers in the past and had to bring a lot more ice to keep food cold on 4-6 day trips. Now we bring less ice which means more room in coolers and less coolers overall. Back in the day we would bring a cooler with just ice to restock the Igloo/Rubbermaid coolers. The fancy insulated coolers are also way more durable and last a lot longer. I have done a few episodes about coolers but haven't taken a deep dive yet.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on my boat which is a pelican bass raider i modified to row or drift. Movable oarlocks and cargo ties. But my concern in rivers is the hard plastic hull. It's actually fairly flexible but nothing like a raft. I thought about a frame but the floor works pretty well.
@@GearGarageTV Well its basically a 2 piece (top shell / bottom shell) pontoon boat that is meant for lakes. Extraordinarily stable. My concern is what a wrap or hard rock hit would look like. It's filled with Styrofoam blocks so shouldnt collapse but i could see it breaking in half. th-cam.com/video/kCdOfKYyKuQ/w-d-xo.html
Can you share some more info on the light green military boxes? Just found your channel, subscribed, and I’ve been enjoying all your videos! Keep up the great work!
It really depends on how your raft is set up and the type of river you're doing. In general you want to rig it to the frame or on something hard elevated above the floor.
There are a bunch of reasons I don't like cargo nets, here are the 2 main ones: 1. When your boat flips/wraps straps generally hold gear down better than a cargo net. 2. The nets create a lot of opportunities for entanglemetns.
@@MrFloatagoat The net style ones are no good - they are indeed entrapment hazards and I've never been inspired by the strength of them. Check out the King Sling. No entrapment hazard at all, and makes for a very neat and tidy system. For easy stuff, just the sling is fine. To rig to flip on the Grand, I'll run some straps through the drybags then strap the sling down - bomber! I see those long lengths of uncovered straps from the drybags to the d-rings as a potential entrapment hazard. One set of straps covered up with the King Sling is the best of both worlds.
I think they're pretty cool but I've never used them. A few people I really respect swear by them. My main concern is what they would do when a boat flips or wraps. The advantages I see are that they (1) Make it easy to rig, unrig your boat every day and (2) There are fewer danger straps that could be possible entrapments. The disadvantages are (1) They are one more thing to buy and load every time, (2) They require a certain amount of gear (you can't have too much or too little), and (3) They are less versatile overall.
@@GearGarageTV I flipped in Velvet this past June. That was the same time you were on the river too. The only gear lost was what wasn't tied down, which was a couple water bottles, and one of my shoes. The river bag did great!
@@darrelldb1 I'm glad to hear the bag worked to keep everything in when you flipped. Did it stay in place or did it shift around when it was upside down?
Everything was in place when we righted the raft. It didn't need to be adjusted or re-secured. The only thing with the bag is that when you strap it all down it puts a lot of force on the floor. I am looking to get a hard floor to put under the bag.
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Man I wish all these videos were around 15 years ago. It would have saved me lots of headaches and fiddling.
Yep me too
I go through and rewatch all your videos over the year and catch new things everytime as I learn more. I just caught new things tonight that will change how I rig my boats. Thanks Zach for your efforts to put these videos together. You've created a massive resource for the community.
It's so nice to hear you find these videos useful. Thank you so much for the nice note.
Cams straps did not exist when I started, so we used tubular hoopie. I tied a figure 8 or bowline to make a small loop in the end of 12 ft sections that I could girth onto the frame or a D ring. You can get a lot more tension if you interconnect your webbing and use a vector pull like technique to tension it. I used "triangles" a lot to keep things tight and in place and to add more tension to my straps. We used to make our own "spider web" gear lofts to keep the gear off the bottom of bucket boat floors by weaving the webbing onto d rings and the frame at the put in. I like to get my webbing ties wet first for max tension. Now I buy the "fatty" 1 1/2" straps for important stuff, like frames, heavy coolers & boxes. I have never liked the loop straps as they are hard to get tight. I girth hitch pairs of straps to frame for coolers and boxes and adjust the location of the buckle to hang just over the edge of cooler lid so it is out of my way and accessible and it provides a 2:1 mechanical advantage over the loop straps. For the spare, I like blade forward and rig a loop with a short strap around the blade about 18" back from the oar tip that remains "fixed. Then I use a 2 ft strap girth hitched to the frame that wraps around the oar just behind the stopper, so it will not get loose. Then if I need it, I just open the rear cam to release the oar and grab the handle, slip it back out of the front loop and in a micro second, I have the spare into my oarlock. Time matters and no need to be trying to undo 2 cams at once and risk losing the spare in big water or rocky shallows. I use a beaver tail to keep the load off the floor and the weight on the tubes. Heavy items towards center of boat and light items at the tail for quick turning. I like my weight 60/ 40 back to front for back ferry and downstream ferry moves. Or 50/50 for shallow technical rivers. Tie off loose straps ends for safety. I see everyone using those rigging nets and bags these days, but I see many
gaps for things to slip out and a ton of wasted space as they are not compressed like you can do with straps. I like to clip a throwbag onto base of each oar tower so always handy, and if boat is upside down, I know exactly where to find it for a flip line. I like to put the knot of the throwbag end loop inside the bag, then tighten the cord so the loop does not come out in a flip and also thread the short strap with the release buckle through the loop to also help keep the rope inside the bag. These are just my personal preferences, many ways to rig a boat and they all work if you do it so you don't loose or damage gear or create a safety hazard. I like your red ECHO drybag, I worked for them in Salmon in 81 and 97, lots of memories.
I just throw my shit in the boat and go.
This video like all the others of yours I've watched is just so full of good and helpful information. Thanks!
Great vid Zach. Lots of days rigging a raft here and still picked up some tips.
I double loop my spare oar strap too, so when/if I need the oar, I don't accidentally lose the strap in the river.
Yes I do that sometimes too. Thanks for chiming in!
Super useful. Thanks for doing the video 🙌🏼
What size are those ammo cans? 40mm cans are 8x17x14 ish but those look bigger
Great vidz zack! I use to put the spare blade forward because I like the look, too. I realized, though that having the blade in back makes for an easier spare oar grab from the captain’s seat. With the blade in the back, you only have to release one cam. Reach to the side and release the cam next to the blade, then pull the handle out of the front strap. No need to climb up to the bow for that second strap.
I used to*
I think that having the blade back or forward having an effect on making the oar grab easier is highly dependent on each individual set up. Boat setups are very different these days so how everyone rigs it will depend on their own setup. When in doubt go with the thing that looks cool.
Dude.... Thanks... Much appreciated.
Custom to my boat, overly engineered homemade "barny bag" ... best investment I have ever made in regards to rigging. One zipper and pull two straps (straps zig zigs to d-rings on both sides of the zipper every 8" to hold actual load) load secured. Now I can load boat faster than people can bring me bags to load.
Yep those are pretty cool
Outstanding and informative video.
Thanks Zack
Glad you liked it!
These videos really help with the no permit blues 😢😂
How do you recommend rigging water jugs and coolers, and the toilet or anything else that is rigid?
There are a few days to do this. One is to have a hatch where these items are carried in a big mesh bag hanging from a frame and covered by a table or other hatch cover. The other is to run a deck in the rowers area or in the back of the boat for hard items to sit on. Some things like plastic toilets can run on the floor. We generally hang our coolers from the frame with straps.
Hello there What kind of plywood and what size thickness did you use for your hatch cover also what did you treat it with🤙
3/4” sanded ply wood. Treated with spar urethane.
Great video that is very helpful in planning our first overnight trip for our family of six. Do you use a beaver tail or anything in the stern of the boat to keep the bags off the floor?
Sometimes
The gear on the back of your boat? Do you have it directly on the floor? I have a 14ft rmr raft and I am debating if I should get something to raise the bags off the floor of my raft and put their weight on the tubes? I have a dropstich floor idk if that matters?
Sometimes on the floor and sometimes on an elevated platform we refer to as a beaver tail. It depends on what the gear is and what type of river we're on.
cheers to the self bailg days...
Thanks so much for this video!!
Great topic, and awesome video! Do you prefer steel frames to aluminum?
conorpeterson I’m stoked you like the video. I prefer steel if I’m going for durability and aluminum if I’m going for lightweight.
Do you like nets over the bags? I've used them a few times and they are pretty diverse. A big enough net, folded in half can get 'perma rigged' and act like a sling. Meanwhile the second half can fold over the top of your gear, and get laced tight from D-ring to D-ring. It keeps weight off the floor and is easy to rig
I personally don't mostly because I've never used them and am resistant to new things. Here are the downsides I see are (1) It's an extra piece of gear generally custom built for a particular boat that needs to be packed and repaired, (2) Some of them create additional entrapment hazards, and (3) They assume a particular amount of gear in the back so they're not as versatile as straps.
@@GearGarageTV They were an odd sight at first, but now I enjoy using them in certain applications.
@@willybumbum6682 Yes I think if I was a primarily a private boater and always used the same boat I'd probably get one.
I second your comment on the length of straps... no straps over 9' should exist!!!
Even 9' is suspect
What brand of cooler are you using here?
Canyon Cooler
I like the multi 6 foot cam strap method on the stern bags. You ever see one of those pull apart? Perhaps in a wrap situation? Also, it looks like you have a heavy insulated cooler (Yeti style) on your boat there. I assume you have decided that the extra weight and reduced capacity (vs an Igloo Marine) is worth it for the added insulation? Have you done any shows on coolers?
I've never seen bags come off on their own but I have seen them poorly rigged and an absolute mess that makes the wrap/flip situation more difficult to deal with.
Yes the extra weight of the cooler is definitely worth it. We used classic rubbermaid coolers in the past and had to bring a lot more ice to keep food cold on 4-6 day trips. Now we bring less ice which means more room in coolers and less coolers overall. Back in the day we would bring a cooler with just ice to restock the Igloo/Rubbermaid coolers. The fancy insulated coolers are also way more durable and last a lot longer.
I have done a few episodes about coolers but haven't taken a deep dive yet.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on my boat which is a pelican bass raider i modified to row or drift. Movable oarlocks and cargo ties.
But my concern in rivers is the hard plastic hull. It's actually fairly flexible but nothing like a raft.
I thought about a frame but the floor works pretty well.
Unfortunately I don't know anything about those boats
@@GearGarageTV Well its basically a 2 piece (top shell / bottom shell) pontoon boat that is meant for lakes. Extraordinarily stable.
My concern is what a wrap or hard rock hit would look like.
It's filled with Styrofoam blocks so shouldnt collapse but i could see it breaking in half.
th-cam.com/video/kCdOfKYyKuQ/w-d-xo.html
Can you share some more info on the light green military boxes? Just found your channel, subscribed, and I’ve been enjoying all your videos! Keep up the great work!
I'm stoked you've been enjoying our videos. The green boxes are 40+ years old and not really available any more. If you find more, please let me know!
Hey I was wondering if you had any suggestions for rigging propane tanks if you don’t have a drop bag hatch
It really depends on how your raft is set up and the type of river you're doing. In general you want to rig it to the frame or on something hard elevated above the floor.
Just curious. Why not use a cargo bag/net rather than strap on bags?
There are a bunch of reasons I don't like cargo nets, here are the 2 main ones:
1. When your boat flips/wraps straps generally hold gear down better than a cargo net.
2. The nets create a lot of opportunities for entanglemetns.
What is your opinion on the everything bags or santa sacs for gear bags ?
I've never used them. I was taught to use rope so that's what I've stuck with.
What are your thoughts on removing thwarts on a 16' Avon Pro bucket boat for more space? Mostly fishing trips Class I.II, & III.
The main purpose of thwarts is to provide lateral rigidity. If you have a rowing frame you likely don't need them.
@@GearGarageTV great answer....thank you! I like what your doing on these videos.
Where did you get the large military lime green cans?
Military surplus a long time ago. They're nearly impossible to find now.
@@GearGarageTV what size are the green cans?
Savage wilderness
helped me ....
Danger net? like a cargo net? What dangers do you perceive with these?
Those nets are entanglement hazards
@@GearGarageTV even if they are lashed down on all sides to the frame?
@@MrFloatagoat The net style ones are no good - they are indeed entrapment hazards and I've never been inspired by the strength of them.
Check out the King Sling. No entrapment hazard at all, and makes for a very neat and tidy system. For easy stuff, just the sling is fine. To rig to flip on the Grand, I'll run some straps through the drybags then strap the sling down - bomber!
I see those long lengths of uncovered straps from the drybags to the d-rings as a potential entrapment hazard. One set of straps covered up with the King Sling is the best of both worlds.
What's your opinion on using something like the Pacific River Bag for all the gear in the stern?
I love mine!
I think they're pretty cool but I've never used them. A few people I really respect swear by them. My main concern is what they would do when a boat flips or wraps.
The advantages I see are that they (1) Make it easy to rig, unrig your boat every day and (2) There are fewer danger straps that could be possible entrapments. The disadvantages are (1) They are one more thing to buy and load every time, (2) They require a certain amount of gear (you can't have too much or too little), and (3) They are less versatile overall.
@@GearGarageTV I flipped in Velvet this past June. That was the same time you were on the river too. The only gear lost was what wasn't tied down, which was a couple water bottles, and one of my shoes. The river bag did great!
@@darrelldb1 I'm glad to hear the bag worked to keep everything in when you flipped. Did it stay in place or did it shift around when it was upside down?
Everything was in place when we righted the raft. It didn't need to be adjusted or re-secured.
The only thing with the bag is that when you strap it all down it puts a lot of force on the floor. I am looking to get a hard floor to put under the bag.
What about the guitar and mandolin?!
:)
That goes on the very, very top!
Why no nets?
raft company rules: at least one guide to be called Zach. . .
First