It would be worthwhile to test the new product against the old...like Projec Farm did. Just because it's reformulated, that will make a lot of people believe it's 'inferior' because that's the way their brains process.....'old' versus 'new'.
The AT-205, lubegard and blue devil the identical chemical. -> Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether 111-90-0 The chemical isn't all that expensive from a chemical supplier. I purchased a gallon from a local supplier 2015 for about $50. pretty much a lifetime supply.
I plan to add ATP to my power steering rack that is slightly leaking at the boot. Do I need to flush my system before or after I add the ATP? I tested the break fluid its slightly dirty, I’m not sure if it’s ok just to add the 2.5 oz and leave it like that. I’m also not sure if ATP would affect my power steering pump. I have a 2000 Lexus RX 300 AWD and it runs great with 188k miles. Great video and thanks for sharing!
If I had your 24 year old Lexus I'd dump in 2.5 and not worry about flushing it out. I'd just drive it and see if it stopped the leak... probably 50/50 it stops the leak. Good luck! I hope you're a subscriber and make those cars last baby!
"AT-205 Re-Seal is now 24 dollars plus a bottle when it was only 11.99 three years ago. I would call that some serious inflation. It can sit on the shelf and ROT before i pay that price. I hope they go out of business." Scotty Kilmer
Good point Bill. But remember that I always run the AT-205 for the entire oil change interval... whether 5,000 or 7,500 or 10,000 ... you really want to give it time to work. Thanks for watching. I hope you're a subscriber and make those cars last baby!
@@awake780 I use this product... my engine starts dripping a few months after its yearly oil change. At that point I put the AT-205 in and it takes a few more months to stop the leak.
I used this in my car 3 days ago and been driving. Have you heard of anyone mentioning there lifters were ticking on a cold start!?? Whats up with that? My lifters never ticked and I hope this will go away after driving more miles or with an oil change. I assume the solution is sticking to my lifters as it would to rubber seals.
After Scotty Kilmer hyped it, I ordered one from Amazon and its been sitting. The kabel makes me wonder. I bought it to recondition rubber on bushings, shocks and sway bar links. I havent used it yet, so I have new bushings and shocks on my truck and they are a bit squeaky. I am considering using At-205 or a silicon lubricant spray. Any feedback about that?
If they're brand new bushings you don't need to recondion the rubber, you just need lubricate the surfaces rubbing against each other. You don't want to overly soften the rubber, that may cause premature wear. I'd stick with silicone spray.
Project Farm also showed AT205 separating from the oil, being a cloudy color when agitated, & creating horrific metal to metal wear with increased friction & heat. It might soften the seals the best, but at the expense of seriously wearing down your engine.
Thanks for your comment Marry, but that's not how I interpreted the increased wear. What I saw was a slight increase in engine wear, overall, which pails in comparison to having an oil leak on your car... also, realize you use AT-205 in old vehicles, hopefully paid for, that you want to make last 25 years and 300,000 miles. What I've found with my vehicles is that you can stop a minor oil leak, then on your next oil change the AT-205 comes out, and you keep motoring along without the oil leak. But again, thanks for watching, even if we disagree. I hope you're a subscriber and make those cars last.
you have to keep in mind that project farm used the bearing test to simulate wear which is useful for testing the wear against other products, but isn't an indicator of how much wear would occur in a vehicle system since the vehicle isn't exposed to that type of surface force. In conclusion, more wear on the test apparatus doesn't necessarily mean there is a significant increase of wear in the vehicle.
Project farm is also using a 50/50 blend of the product with the oil. Thats orders of magnitude more concentration of product to oil then would normally be added. Also, you could draw a conclusion that motor oil alone causes bearing/scaring based on the test device he used with metal to metal contact.
@@TheSwitzAutomotive i replaced my manifold cover and got a new heat shield for my NA miata. Because there was smoke coming through the manifold gasket area and the old heat shield looked really ugly and covered in surface rust. I also changed the oil and added some of the 205 and the engine is all good now 👍 122k miles Still gotta fix the clutch though unfortunately 💀 I’m not sure if I can do that on my own
You're completely ignoring something far more important which is that using the product damaged the oils lubricity and caused more engine wear. Just make a proper repair of the seals rather than ruining your engine or trans.
Other than two of my four vehicles have over 200,000 miles on them using AT-205 for the past 15+ years ... original engines, original transmissions, original diffs, power steering racks, so yeah, works for me, and 99.9% of my subscribers. Now I do agree with the research that AT-205 can slightly retard the quality of the oil... but it's very minor at a chemical level. A top tier motor oil will still deliver top tier performance even with 4 oz of AT-205 in it. But even though I disagree with the thrust of your argument I still appreciate you watching and commenting.
there is absolutely ZERO evidence that AT-205 causes accelerated engine wear. Sure- if you over do it and kept pouring the stuff in- okay, fine- the oil would indeed get compromised. If you use high quality synthetic oil and change it every 7K- you'll have ZERO worries. And we all know, AT-205 is NOT a replacement for new seals- the question is- do you want to spend north of $800 to separate your engine from your tranny to replace a $50 seal; AND not have your car for a while- OR, spend $11, pour in a bottle of AT-205 in and drive away? This worked for me on a 2003 Volvo S60, 348,700 miles- NO WAY am I ripping that thing apart when I can just do this. My PCV system tests fine, 'breathing' in the right direction- I'll stick with this for the foreseeable future.
@@lynskyrd “zero evidence?” The project farm experiment and results aren’t evidence? There is certainly evidence, though not proof (because PF did an accelerated experiment by using a 50/50 ratio formula) but evidence that it lowers the lubrication properties of the motor oil and increases chances of engine wear.
@@MrTravisAl can you read / comprehend? WHERE in the AF-205 instructions does it say to do a 50/50 mix? WHY would you even do that other than to 'see what happens'. Project Farm also substituted shampoo for motor oil. I think he even did bacon grease. Do you really think that bacon grease is the same as Mobil1? Getting back to AF-205; 16 fluid oz mixed with 4-6 US Quarts of oil is what the recommended 'ratio' is which is about 10:1. Hope this helps.
It would be worthwhile to test the new product against the old...like Projec Farm did. Just because it's reformulated, that will make a lot of people believe it's 'inferior' because that's the way their brains process.....'old' versus 'new'.
The AT-205, lubegard and blue devil the identical chemical. -> Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether 111-90-0 The chemical isn't all that expensive from a chemical supplier. I purchased a gallon from a local supplier 2015 for about $50. pretty much a lifetime supply.
Is it still available for public use
That's strange. Because I tried blue devil. Didn't work. Atp 205 did. For oil leak that is.
@@ErickMcNerney It's the saturation of the chemical vs other additives in the product
I plan to add ATP to my power steering rack that is slightly leaking at the boot. Do I need to flush my system before or after I add the ATP? I tested the break fluid its slightly dirty, I’m not sure if it’s ok just to add the 2.5 oz and leave it like that. I’m also not sure if ATP would affect my power steering pump. I have a 2000 Lexus RX 300 AWD and it runs great with 188k miles. Great video and thanks for sharing!
If I had your 24 year old Lexus I'd dump in 2.5 and not worry about flushing it out. I'd just drive it and see if it stopped the leak... probably 50/50 it stops the leak. Good luck! I hope you're a subscriber and make those cars last baby!
@@TheSwitzAutomotivethank you for the reply and advice! I’m
also a new subscriber! Thanks!
If you are going to talk about someone elses video you should link to it.
"AT-205 Re-Seal is now 24 dollars plus a bottle when it was only 11.99 three years ago. I would call that some serious inflation. It can sit on the shelf and ROT before i pay that price. I hope they go out of business." Scotty Kilmer
Jesus
it's $12.77/bottle at rockauto
Yes, plus $11.99 shipping, to California, in a week. Or $22, today, at Autozone. @@oldjarhead1125
I didn't pay that, but probably because I got it right after you hyped it Scotty Kilmer. Maybe your hyping it made them figure they can get more.
Scotty Kilmer hyped it 12 years ago, no wonder you did not pay that.@@Wakeupandsniffthecoffee
if these commenters are so concerned about engine wear then why not just change your oil right after using this product?
Good point Bill. But remember that I always run the AT-205 for the entire oil change interval... whether 5,000 or 7,500 or 10,000 ... you really want to give it time to work. Thanks for watching. I hope you're a subscriber and make those cars last baby!
I would add it 500 to 1000 km before an oil change. Drive the 5 hours like they recommend and then change the oil.
@@awake780 I use this product... my engine starts dripping a few months after its yearly oil change. At that point I put the AT-205 in and it takes a few more months to stop the leak.
Should you use this product if your can is not leaking but is old?
no
The old say why try fixing a problem that doesn't exist..
I used this in my car 3 days ago and been driving. Have you heard of anyone mentioning there lifters were ticking on a cold start!?? Whats up with that? My lifters never ticked and I hope this will go away after driving more miles or with an oil change. I assume the solution is sticking to my lifters as it would to rubber seals.
I'm wondering if I should try some marvel mystery oil but 100 percent I got a leak somewhere on my Honda D16Y8. Could be RMS BUT IDK
I have been driving with one whole bottle in my engine. Lately I've heard the knocking or a ticking at idle
After Scotty Kilmer hyped it, I ordered one from Amazon and its been sitting. The kabel makes me wonder.
I bought it to recondition rubber on bushings, shocks and sway bar links.
I havent used it yet, so I have new bushings and shocks on my truck and they are a bit squeaky. I am considering using At-205 or a silicon lubricant spray.
Any feedback about that?
If they're brand new bushings you don't need to recondion the rubber, you just need lubricate the surfaces rubbing against each other. You don't want to overly soften the rubber, that may cause premature wear.
I'd stick with silicone spray.
Project Farm also showed AT205 separating from the oil, being a cloudy color when agitated, & creating horrific metal to metal wear with increased friction & heat. It might soften the seals the best, but at the expense of seriously wearing down your engine.
Thanks for your comment Marry, but that's not how I interpreted the increased wear. What I saw was a slight increase in engine wear, overall, which pails in comparison to having an oil leak on your car... also, realize you use AT-205 in old vehicles, hopefully paid for, that you want to make last 25 years and 300,000 miles. What I've found with my vehicles is that you can stop a minor oil leak, then on your next oil change the AT-205 comes out, and you keep motoring along without the oil leak. But again, thanks for watching, even if we disagree. I hope you're a subscriber and make those cars last.
you have to keep in mind that project farm used the bearing test to simulate wear which is useful for testing the wear against other products, but isn't an indicator of how much wear would occur in a vehicle system since the vehicle isn't exposed to that type of surface force. In conclusion, more wear on the test apparatus doesn't necessarily mean there is a significant increase of wear in the vehicle.
Project farm is also using a 50/50 blend of the product with the oil. Thats orders of magnitude more concentration of product to oil then would normally be added. Also, you could draw a conclusion that motor oil alone causes bearing/scaring based on the test device he used with metal to metal contact.
I decided to buy some just in case my engine decides to start leaking again
Nice Ben... it's still my #1 go to stop leak product ... I hope you're a subscriber and make those cars last baby!
@@TheSwitzAutomotive i replaced my manifold cover and got a new heat shield for my NA miata. Because there was smoke coming through the manifold gasket area and the old heat shield looked really ugly and covered in surface rust. I also changed the oil and added some of the 205 and the engine is all good now 👍 122k miles
Still gotta fix the clutch though unfortunately 💀 I’m not sure if I can do that on my own
2 bottles, with the new formula always add 2 bottles
You're completely ignoring something far more important which is that using the product damaged the oils lubricity and caused more engine wear. Just make a proper repair of the seals rather than ruining your engine or trans.
Other than two of my four vehicles have over 200,000 miles on them using AT-205 for the past 15+ years ... original engines, original transmissions, original diffs, power steering racks, so yeah, works for me, and 99.9% of my subscribers. Now I do agree with the research that AT-205 can slightly retard the quality of the oil... but it's very minor at a chemical level. A top tier motor oil will still deliver top tier performance even with 4 oz of AT-205 in it. But even though I disagree with the thrust of your argument I still appreciate you watching and commenting.
there is absolutely ZERO evidence that AT-205 causes accelerated engine wear. Sure- if you over do it and kept pouring the stuff in- okay, fine- the oil would indeed get compromised. If you use high quality synthetic oil and change it every 7K- you'll have ZERO worries. And we all know, AT-205 is NOT a replacement for new seals- the question is- do you want to spend north of $800 to separate your engine from your tranny to replace a $50 seal; AND not have your car for a while- OR, spend $11, pour in a bottle of AT-205 in and drive away? This worked for me on a 2003 Volvo S60, 348,700 miles- NO WAY am I ripping that thing apart when I can just do this. My PCV system tests fine, 'breathing' in the right direction- I'll stick with this for the foreseeable future.
@@lynskyrd “zero evidence?” The project farm experiment and results aren’t evidence?
There is certainly evidence, though not proof (because PF did an accelerated experiment by using a 50/50 ratio formula) but evidence that it lowers the lubrication properties of the motor oil and increases chances of engine wear.
Why the hell would you use a 50/50 mix sheesh.
@@MrTravisAl can you read / comprehend? WHERE in the AF-205 instructions does it say to do a 50/50 mix? WHY would you even do that other than to 'see what happens'. Project Farm also substituted shampoo for motor oil. I think he even did bacon grease. Do you really think that bacon grease is the same as Mobil1? Getting back to AF-205; 16 fluid oz mixed with 4-6 US Quarts of oil is what the recommended 'ratio' is which is about 10:1. Hope this helps.
AT 205 comes with no instructions.