Thanks so much for the mention! I really appreciate it. So happy to have helped you out with this. When I saw your original relay, I was afraid it had damaged the original compressor because the series coil was so burned. That coil had passed the same current as the compressor motor winding. SO2 is bad, but it has been highly exaggerated over the years. There are a lot of reasons for that. They had to try to sell more expensive refrigerants back in the day, so they tried to talk it up. It always makes me sneeze and cough as well; but in spite of some serious exposures it has never caused any lasting effects for me. With the R152A you can get CRC brand cans without bitterant. Regardless; if you extract the R152A from the cans in vapor form, then the bitterant will stay in the can and not go into your system. It's an oil like compound, like most artificial flavorings. It's good you went with R152A because that is compatible with both mineral oil and POE oil. The large volume of mineral oil which was trapped in the float chamber and evaporator will circulate back to the compressor. The compressor came with POE oil. The R152A will allow the two oils to circulate and lubricate the compressor properly. If you don't have any residual oil in the system, it's usually wise to add additional oil to the new compressor to allow for a modern compressor to live with the huge refrigerant volume in these older systems. Without additional oil, it will dilute the oil and cause the compressor to die from poor lubrication.
Very informative video and great job on keeping that beauty out of the scrapyard! It’s amazing to see the original manual showing how to evacuate the sulphur dioxide out of the system. With modern manufacturers wanting you to throw out their product and buy a brand new one, you’d never see that today!
Thanks for the kind words. It's true, our Samsung kitchen refrigerator is only a few years old and it's already falling apart. Can't imagine it being around in 80 years.
Nice CF! It's in amazing condition. Yes, it's a big learning curve - I went through it myself restoring two CA monitor tops 10 years ago. You've done an excellent job with the compressor transplant.
There is not enough denatonium benzoate in the stuff to be a problem. The thing you have to watch out for with duster gas is that some cans contain ethanol.
My '41 flat top still works. The seal is shot and I think that's why my freezer ice's up too much. I live in South Louisiana with a normal 60-70 percent humidity. I found your video to be very informative. Electronic duster....who knew? So...the EPA has throttled and changed the approved refrigerant because of the danger to the ozone layer, but here's a very working chemical that its sole purpose sees it shot into the atmosphere as part of its function.
This was an excellent video. It was really cool to see the proper evacuation of the SO2-refrigerant. I found this exact model for sale on the Facebook Marketplace; it appears to be in great condition, just like yours. I will be going to check it out next weekend. I was wondering: Is it difficult to remove the lower front panel for compressor/wiring inspection? I couldn't find any videos online showing the removal process.
Mine is called "Mueller Brass Co. Streamline Charging and Purging Valve Kit" but you can also try searching "Vintage Refrigerator Hermetic Charging Sealing kit" .
![How to Restore a Antique / Vintage Fridge 1940 General Electric [Phoenix Fabrications]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QcjeY2Z3bYg/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Restore a Antique / Vintage Fridge 1940 General Electric [Phoenix Fabrications]](/img/tr.png)
Very educational and safe handling of R-759 (SO2)
Thanks so much for the mention! I really appreciate it. So happy to have helped you out with this.
When I saw your original relay, I was afraid it had damaged the original compressor because the series coil was so burned. That coil had passed the same current as the compressor motor winding.
SO2 is bad, but it has been highly exaggerated over the years. There are a lot of reasons for that. They had to try to sell more expensive refrigerants back in the day, so they tried to talk it up. It always makes me sneeze and cough as well; but in spite of some serious exposures it has never caused any lasting effects for me.
With the R152A you can get CRC brand cans without bitterant. Regardless; if you extract the R152A from the cans in vapor form, then the bitterant will stay in the can and not go into your system. It's an oil like compound, like most artificial flavorings.
It's good you went with R152A because that is compatible with both mineral oil and POE oil. The large volume of mineral oil which was trapped in the float chamber and evaporator will circulate back to the compressor. The compressor came with POE oil. The R152A will allow the two oils to circulate and lubricate the compressor properly.
If you don't have any residual oil in the system, it's usually wise to add additional oil to the new compressor to allow for a modern compressor to live with the huge refrigerant volume in these older systems. Without additional oil, it will dilute the oil and cause the compressor to die from poor lubrication.
Very informative video and great job on keeping that beauty out of the scrapyard! It’s amazing to see the original manual showing how to evacuate the sulphur dioxide out of the system.
With modern manufacturers wanting you to throw out their product and buy a brand new one, you’d never see that today!
Thanks for the kind words. It's true, our Samsung kitchen refrigerator is only a few years old and it's already falling apart. Can't imagine it being around in 80 years.
Nice CF! It's in amazing condition. Yes, it's a big learning curve - I went through it myself restoring two CA monitor tops 10 years ago. You've done an excellent job with the compressor transplant.
No doubt it works better than it did when it was new. 👍
Thanks for sharing. I'm new to the antique refrigerators and David's videos are super helpful. Time for me to start buying a few tools.
Nice repair gotta love R 152a I use the WD 40 brand, no bitterant, i stuff my cans into a helium tank
There is not enough denatonium benzoate in the stuff to be a problem. The thing you have to watch out for with duster gas is that some cans contain ethanol.
My fears were definitely unfounded. Even with the bitterant it cools fantastically and is still working great.
My '41 flat top still works. The seal is shot and I think that's why my freezer ice's up too much. I live in South Louisiana with a normal 60-70 percent humidity. I found your video to be very informative. Electronic duster....who knew? So...the EPA has throttled and changed the approved refrigerant because of the danger to the ozone layer, but here's a very working chemical that its sole purpose sees it shot into the atmosphere as part of its function.
It works a little too well 😁 I never turn the fridge above the "1" setting.
Good job
Thank you!
This was an excellent video. It was really cool to see the proper evacuation of the SO2-refrigerant. I found this exact model for sale on the Facebook Marketplace; it appears to be in great condition, just like yours. I will be going to check it out next weekend. I was wondering: Is it difficult to remove the lower front panel for compressor/wiring inspection? I couldn't find any videos online showing the removal process.
It's super easy, just open the door and lift up on the panel. It comes right off.
Picture on your fridge. Best in the world shoes? In Cyrillic alphabet.
Good eye. I have a bunch of vintage Russian posters my wife brought to the marriage.
You are an genius¡
Hardly, but I don't take defeat well, even when I should probably walk away.
Best advice is to add 50ml of water to the compressor before regassing.
What is that little evacuation kit called? I can’t find one…
Mine is called "Mueller Brass Co. Streamline Charging and Purging Valve Kit" but you can also try searching "Vintage Refrigerator Hermetic Charging Sealing kit" .
So how much juice does that thing use?
Not much. I've had a meter on it since I started it up and based on my calculations should take around $16 a year to run.
What size wire did you use?
I used 16 AWG copper wire for rewiring.