I think the route setters on that last problem did a horrible job, i want to see them get up there and have to do that, ill give them 20 minutes to show the crowd.
mejdi actually did the boulder after the comp! there should be vids of it around on yt, he did it in sneakers too so it seems like it should be pretty easy for them😂, probably difficult because its something they’ve never seen before!
gotta love a boulder where the athletes can't even get onto the start hold (B3)... as if the massive dyno at the end and the outward slanted wall at the start wasn't hard enough. I'm facepalming a little with that choice to be honest. please for fs just give them a decent start hold so the audience isn't in agony for several minutes at a time edit: 1:03:42 look at sorato on B4. he is literally fully extended, spread eagle completely just to barely touch the footholds and handholds. I am an engineer, and it is *physically impossible* to generate enough upward force to pull up in that situation, because in order to do so, you must bend your knees slightly in order to jump slightly to push up, and he can't bend his knees or his hands can't reach the handholds anymore and he'll fall off. he also can't just pull up statically using the handholds because he's not tall enough to get his hands on the upper sides of the holds to compress between them, or get his hands on the top of the holds to pull upwards. he's just barely touching the handholds near the bottom. there is literally nothing he can do. you can't compress upwards if your hands can only touch near the bottoms of the handholds. this is the most delusional boulder I've seen in a long time. delusional. only someone 6 foot or taller would have the potential wingspan to be able to do this. it isn't an issue of skill or strength - it is the laws of physics. when you are completely spread eagle, in full tension, just to touch the handholds near the bottom, you do not have the ability to move upward by pulling up on the holds, and you can't jump up on the holds either because you'll fall the moment you bend your knees to generate upward momentum. I always hear "the routesetters job is sooo hard" - I'm a biomedical engineer that runs human clinical trials. if I fail at my job, people could die. MY job is hard, and if I made even 1/100 of the bad calls that the route setters make, I would be fired and have my licenses revoked immediately. it's not that hard to recognize a delusional route. I knew B4 was delusional the moment I saw the graphic.
yeah, I think it's completely delusional. no one even got a zone because it was straight up impossible for anyone who isn't taller than 6 feet, and even for someone who is 6 feet or taller, it is still near impossible. so the route setters idea was for the athletes to face away from the zone hold, do a full bicep press between two slippery holds on a wall that is tilted outward (so that it makes you want to fall off), then somehow push off of the full bicep press while their bodies are in total tension, flip around and grab the zone hold?? or grab the zone hold while facing away from it during a full bicep press?? wtf were they thinking seriously
There’s a clip where Mejdi did the boulder after the comp and sent it in trainers, where he has been told the beta. When it’s figured out, it’s pretty easy for them. Just becoz they didn’t figure it out on the spot and doesn’t give you a good show does not mean it’s a dumb boulder Route setting is a tough job, be respectful
@@gracelam2624I'm a biomedical engineer. If I mess up, thousands of people will die. my job is tough, and yet, I'm still successful more often than people who objectively have a much easier job than I do. I guess I just don't love the idea that the routesetters job is "so hard" that they can't see an obviously unfair boulder. we've been through this time and again. just because one of the taller climbers was able to do the boulder outside of the competition after being TOLD how to do it by the routesetters doesn't mean that it was a great boulder and that we should all just pat the routesetters on the back and give them a trophy for participation. sending these boulders can mean the difference between getting to go to the Olympics or being forced to stay home for these athletes, and I think it's the bare minimum to suggest that the routes should **at the very least** be fair to all the athletes in terms of height and ability. if some athletes cannot reach the start hold, that's not a fair boulder. if some athletes can't crouch low enough to get under a spot on a boulder, that's not fair. if some athletes do not have the height and arm-span to actually push up on a boulder to send it, that's not fair. we're asking for the bare minimum - that the boulders are all set fairly and give everyone an equal shot at success, with the ability to send each boulder being based on SKILL not uncontrollable physical attributes like height or arm-span. when you're just asking for the bare minimum, and being told "you're too mean - think of the routesetters feelings -their job is so hard" it just feels ridiculous, to be honest.
I’m always disappointed to see that the UK don’t seem to have anyone getting through to these finals - max, Amish and Erin are all great climbers, insane to not see them getting to the finals, the level must be astronomical.
People are quite rude about the female comentator on the comments, but it reminds me a lot of Aubrey Plaza. I agree it can be a bit annoying, but she's just doing her job and probably can't help how she sounds...
Matt can get Sorato's name for years! AnrUku? Where does he finds the U? Well not that he does any better with other Japanese names, even after he hears the correct pronunciation he can't be bothered to repeat it...smh
"He would love a top here." Yea. That's true for every climber on every boulder ever. I doubt some climber went to a boulder and thought: Yea, I would love to be unable to top this one.
This woman is the worst commentator ive heard. She seems like she is bored and tries to talk only because she has been quiet for too long. Only the other commentator was fun and had some interesting comments to add.
It might be that the headphones were playing back her own voice with a miniscule delay, it can make it super hard to speak clearly if you are not super used to it
Duysen's saves when he topped boulder 2 had me gasping. The balance and control, the ability to readjust on slab like that...spectacular!
Really good one. Japanese know their way around techno
Thank you for uploading this!
Кайф!!!
Спасибо спортсменам, организаторам и ведущим!
I think the route setters on that last problem did a horrible job, i want to see them get up there and have to do that, ill give them 20 minutes to show the crowd.
Mejdi 7:55 25:58 43:28 1:00:05
Paul 16:12 33:48 51:05 1:08:07
Mejdi's sends 9:39 27:21
Paul's sends 34:40
1:11:23
54:26 who the hell prepared that
would love to see how anyone does the last one. insane.
mejdi actually did the boulder after the comp! there should be vids of it around on yt, he did it in sneakers too so it seems like it should be pretty easy for them😂, probably difficult because its something they’ve never seen before!
th-cam.com/video/1k4BPrZ0F0o/w-d-xo.html
gotta love a boulder where the athletes can't even get onto the start hold (B3)... as if the massive dyno at the end and the outward slanted wall at the start wasn't hard enough. I'm facepalming a little with that choice to be honest. please for fs just give them a decent start hold so the audience isn't in agony for several minutes at a time
edit: 1:03:42 look at sorato on B4. he is literally fully extended, spread eagle completely just to barely touch the footholds and handholds. I am an engineer, and it is *physically impossible* to generate enough upward force to pull up in that situation, because in order to do so, you must bend your knees slightly in order to jump slightly to push up, and he can't bend his knees or his hands can't reach the handholds anymore and he'll fall off. he also can't just pull up statically using the handholds because he's not tall enough to get his hands on the upper sides of the holds to compress between them, or get his hands on the top of the holds to pull upwards. he's just barely touching the handholds near the bottom. there is literally nothing he can do. you can't compress upwards if your hands can only touch near the bottoms of the handholds. this is the most delusional boulder I've seen in a long time. delusional. only someone 6 foot or taller would have the potential wingspan to be able to do this. it isn't an issue of skill or strength - it is the laws of physics. when you are completely spread eagle, in full tension, just to touch the handholds near the bottom, you do not have the ability to move upward by pulling up on the holds, and you can't jump up on the holds either because you'll fall the moment you bend your knees to generate upward momentum. I always hear "the routesetters job is sooo hard" - I'm a biomedical engineer that runs human clinical trials. if I fail at my job, people could die. MY job is hard, and if I made even 1/100 of the bad calls that the route setters make, I would be fired and have my licenses revoked immediately. it's not that hard to recognize a delusional route. I knew B4 was delusional the moment I saw the graphic.
Mejdi did it afterwards in sneaker and he's 1m73 (5'8)
you're able to do it multiple athletes did it after the comp
Sorato cute moment 12:08
The French are on another level.
Le dernier bloc était vraiment a un autre niveau.
Такой маршрут реально пройти?
why camouflage the dual tex ? i dont get it.
To confuse the competitors, but in real life the ghost holds texture pattern is really obvious
That last boulder is kind of dumb or so it seems.
yeah, I think it's completely delusional. no one even got a zone because it was straight up impossible for anyone who isn't taller than 6 feet, and even for someone who is 6 feet or taller, it is still near impossible. so the route setters idea was for the athletes to face away from the zone hold, do a full bicep press between two slippery holds on a wall that is tilted outward (so that it makes you want to fall off), then somehow push off of the full bicep press while their bodies are in total tension, flip around and grab the zone hold?? or grab the zone hold while facing away from it during a full bicep press?? wtf were they thinking seriously
There’s a clip where Mejdi did the boulder after the comp and sent it in trainers, where he has been told the beta. When it’s figured out, it’s pretty easy for them.
Just becoz they didn’t figure it out on the spot and doesn’t give you a good show does not mean it’s a dumb boulder
Route setting is a tough job, be respectful
@@gracelam2624I'm a biomedical engineer. If I mess up, thousands of people will die. my job is tough, and yet, I'm still successful more often than people who objectively have a much easier job than I do.
I guess I just don't love the idea that the routesetters job is "so hard" that they can't see an obviously unfair boulder. we've been through this time and again. just because one of the taller climbers was able to do the boulder outside of the competition after being TOLD how to do it by the routesetters doesn't mean that it was a great boulder and that we should all just pat the routesetters on the back and give them a trophy for participation. sending these boulders can mean the difference between getting to go to the Olympics or being forced to stay home for these athletes, and I think it's the bare minimum to suggest that the routes should **at the very least** be fair to all the athletes in terms of height and ability. if some athletes cannot reach the start hold, that's not a fair boulder. if some athletes can't crouch low enough to get under a spot on a boulder, that's not fair. if some athletes do not have the height and arm-span to actually push up on a boulder to send it, that's not fair.
we're asking for the bare minimum - that the boulders are all set fairly and give everyone an equal shot at success, with the ability to send each boulder being based on SKILL not uncontrollable physical attributes like height or arm-span. when you're just asking for the bare minimum, and being told "you're too mean - think of the routesetters feelings -their job is so hard" it just feels ridiculous, to be honest.
@@gracelam2624amen
When no even gets a zone the route setters have done a really poor job. How does that do anything for climbing?
Nice routes !!!
You mean terrible, no one was able to complete two routes and the last one no one even touched the zone, not to mention holding it.
The last 2 routes are extremely badly designed
thank you. insanely bad, especially B4
Нереально
so frustrating to watch really.
It's a competition boulder, shouldn't it be hard?
Care to explain, this kind of response is pointless complaining not critiquing
Natalia Grossman muito simpática, linda e sorridente.❤
porque fala de natalia?
il pensait a quoi l ouvreur sur le dernier bloc?
someone didnt sober up :D
Who?
@@lc1715 me
Who the heck set the last 2 boulders? I bet 2 hours the setters can't do it!
I’m always disappointed to see that the UK don’t seem to have anyone getting through to these finals - max, Amish and Erin are all great climbers, insane to not see them getting to the finals, the level must be astronomical.
no
British aren't good at anything, with the world scale the truth comes out and are just losers in comparison
BRis aren't good at anything, with the world scale the truth comes out and are just losers in comparison
Toby Roberts has literally won a final this season
@@Zomballfish he hadn’t when I wrote this.
Это вообще реально пройти?!
People are quite rude about the female comentator on the comments, but it reminds me a lot of Aubrey Plaza. I agree it can be a bit annoying, but she's just doing her job and probably can't help how she sounds...
Matt can get Sorato's name for years! AnrUku? Where does he finds the U? Well not that he does any better with other Japanese names, even after he hears the correct pronunciation he can't be bothered to repeat it...smh
a good winner, but very ugly Boulders!
Do you think a young Jacky Chan can beat them all to it?
Wut no, why would he.
On the last boulder, so many false starts
"He would love a top here."
Yea. That's true for every climber on every boulder ever.
I doubt some climber went to a boulder and thought: Yea, I would love to be unable to top this one.
This woman is the worst commentator ive heard. She seems like she is bored and tries to talk only because she has been quiet for too long. Only the other commentator was fun and had some interesting comments to add.
Other commenter is wrong half the time. She is probably just sitting there speechless, staring at him in disbelief.
Was the female commentator having a stroke the whole time?
It might be that the headphones were playing back her own voice with a miniscule delay, it can make it super hard to speak clearly if you are not super used to it
th-cam.com/video/UWcBMFI4FaQ/w-d-xo.html
Example of that same thing
her tone is like she is pushed to be there xdd
mais qui est la commentatrice ? sa voix est juste horrible !!
cloe coscoy