I’m not throwing shade, but you don’t ever Jack on the rear of the pumpkin, the cover will bend and leak, also don’t ever ever Jack on the pinch welds, it will destroy the body of your car.. The torque boxes, front of your pumpkin (in front of the cover) and subframe rails should be the only places you Jack on a fox chassis car.. If you want to make things easier get subframe connectors, they also make jacking rails.. I believe there are diagrams online that show the jacking points of a fox chassis mustang if anyone is interested.. Let’s keep these old beauties in the best condition possible!!
You are right about the Fox body cars, but this is not a Fox body, this is a SN95 body...I have a 94 Cobra and have jacked my car on the pumpkin and it seems to be ok, but definitely need to be careful when doing it
It’s a fox chassis, same basic chassis in a mustang from 79-04 including other cars like Lincoln Mark 7s, 80s thunderbirds and some other older fords..
I do appreciate the concern brotha, honestly figured it would be ok considering that i have seen people using lifts to lift these cars up at these points. Will definitely look into it, and i hear you we gotta keep these cars as well kept as we can
People have been jacking on diff pumpkins since RWD was invented in the 1800's.. I've lifted my 98 rear end on there probably 25 times with no issue or leaks, the spot behind the diff cover where it's flatter is small and the jack can slip off sending it right through the floor-pan, now that I have seen happen, so lift near the cover. The torque boxes, pinch welds, k-member will all bend in, they're not designed to be jacked on one side at a time unless you're spending 90 seconds changing a flat tire, there's a difference between using a rotary lift to lift on all 4 corners at the same time and using a singular jack. These cars flex a lot, Ford did not properly reinforce them, you'll notice if you jack on a pinch weld your doors won't even open or close while it's in the air because of how bad it flexes the cabin since it's the frame of the car. You also have to be extremely cautious jacking on the k-member because of how small and slippery it is, people have sent their jack right through their oil pan when it slipped off. Hopefully this insight clears up some confusion.. The very first thing you should do when buying one of these cars is install subframe-connectors and a strut tower brace if it doesn't have one, usually aftermarket air intakes require you to delete it which is not worth it in my opinion.
i have some used bbk long tubes but i havent put them on due to the lack of time, and apparently theyre really hard to do
from what i hear you have to drop the sub frame, and then snake them through a bit
I’m not throwing shade, but you don’t ever Jack on the rear of the pumpkin, the cover will bend and leak, also don’t ever ever Jack on the pinch welds, it will destroy the body of your car.. The torque boxes, front of your pumpkin (in front of the cover) and subframe rails should be the only places you Jack on a fox chassis car.. If you want to make things easier get subframe connectors, they also make jacking rails.. I believe there are diagrams online that show the jacking points of a fox chassis mustang if anyone is interested.. Let’s keep these old beauties in the best condition possible!!
You are right about the Fox body cars, but this is not a Fox body, this is a SN95 body...I have a 94 Cobra and have jacked my car on the pumpkin and it seems to be ok, but definitely need to be careful when doing it
It’s a fox chassis, same basic chassis in a mustang from 79-04 including other cars like Lincoln Mark 7s, 80s thunderbirds and some other older fords..
@@NewEdgeDesigns Got it, I see what you mean!
I do appreciate the concern brotha, honestly figured it would be ok considering that i have seen people using lifts to lift these cars up at these points. Will definitely look into it, and i hear you we gotta keep these cars as well kept as we can
People have been jacking on diff pumpkins since RWD was invented in the 1800's.. I've lifted my 98 rear end on there probably 25 times with no issue or leaks, the spot behind the diff cover where it's flatter is small and the jack can slip off sending it right through the floor-pan, now that I have seen happen, so lift near the cover. The torque boxes, pinch welds, k-member will all bend in, they're not designed to be jacked on one side at a time unless you're spending 90 seconds changing a flat tire, there's a difference between using a rotary lift to lift on all 4 corners at the same time and using a singular jack. These cars flex a lot, Ford did not properly reinforce them, you'll notice if you jack on a pinch weld your doors won't even open or close while it's in the air because of how bad it flexes the cabin since it's the frame of the car. You also have to be extremely cautious jacking on the k-member because of how small and slippery it is, people have sent their jack right through their oil pan when it slipped off. Hopefully this insight clears up some confusion.. The very first thing you should do when buying one of these cars is install subframe-connectors and a strut tower brace if it doesn't have one, usually aftermarket air intakes require you to delete it which is not worth it in my opinion.