I realized i have watched your video on Princess Mononoke, and loved it. Not surprising that Shad brought your channel up like this. I decided to subscribe to your channel, now that i know that vid was by you.
While wearing a dress in winter, I’ve had men ask “aren’t you cold?” or “how can you wear that in this weather?” You addressed the answer to that perfectly. A dress traps heat like a tent.
@@veronicawexel1291 - Too true. I’m always throwing on warm things like jumpers and blankets and my husband will say “is it warm in here?” Not to me, no.
@@coryc8819 - Usually tall boots with warm socks under. I’ve waited for rides to more formal events in heels, but that’s only a few minutes at worst, and not when there’s snow. This was when I was living in New England, so it could get pretty cold, but a warm core is key. I live in Texas now and winters aren’t a big deal here.
Unless it's made out of thin material and there's a strong wind.... those morning waiting for the bus made me feel like I was naked from the waste down. Though those were a thin poly thing, so that's my fault for not wearing 2-3 thick wool skirts.
I know a guy who frequently wears medieval clothing in his everyday life. He had the clothing originally for larping. Then he found out that those types of clothes are really, freaking, comfortable and practical to wear. And he hasn't looked back since.
Since I came out as gender nonbinary and started wearing dresses and skirts I came to the same conclusion! Everyone should be wearing what we now call dresses, they're soo good. Cool in the summer, warm in the winter, unrestrictive and comfortable all the time and just plain fun to swoosh around in. Guys, break free of the tyranny of trousers.
if you look to the clothing of the middle east, india and some of the more old fashioned south east aisan and chinese clothing you'll find alot of the same trends as medieval uni sex type dresses and i can confirm they are very comfortable.
@@WhichDoctor1 you dont need to be non binary to were dresses and dress type garment and there are male brands for them but you'll have to look abroad since they've been abandoned in wester culture
In Italian this is still the case: we have the same word meaning "female dress" in its singular form ("vestito") and just "clothes" in its plural form ("vestiti"), and it is also the past participle of the verb "vestire" ("to dress").
@@undertakernumberone1 in Dutch however, it's still "aankleden". The act of putting on all your clothes is "aankleden". If you say you just put on your pants you would use "aantrekken" which would be "anziehen" in German. :)
I wonder if kleidung is the original word for clothing in the english language, most german words that sound uncannily familiar to english words usually have this connection, so i wonder if thats the case here?
Some of your mystery garments can be explained in the fact (which you did mention in a different context) that many households made their own cloth and clothing. So, someone's individual clothing appearance would often depend heavily upon the skill and creativity of whoever was making the garments in their house. "What's that?" "Oh, my tunic? My wife made it for me." "That's not a tunic! It's got a bloody hood!" "Well, I keep misplacing my hats, so she made mine with a hood."
and there are certain words in Spanish for various articles of clothing that are feminine even though men wear them but it used to be women that wore them and the meaning changed by the gramatical gender didn't
Similar to German. "Kleidung" means clothing, but "Kleid" means dress. I believe in English there is also something similar going on with the verb 'to dress'. (oops, shouldn't be commenting without full information. Hadn't reached that part of the video yet where Shad elaborates on this point.) It doesn't have to be a dress you are dressing yourself with. Dressing also means "kleiden" in German. I believe it's just one of these cases where it all comes down to fashion. Fashion was always able to cross borders effortlessly. I'm still hoping for dresses to become fashionable for men again.
@@HansenFT we in the Netherlands used to have a store chain called "Vroom en Dreesman" and i always wondered what that second name meant, now I know, thank you. (For English speakers: no, Vroom does not mean what you think it means, it means devout)
Shad Facts: Shad hosts fully participatory live action DnD campaigns for orphaned halflings. For some reason they love his Lord of the Rings Campaigns the most.
More accurately: "Bladed Weapon", since that would include, knives, swords, machetes, spears, won dow (however that's actually spelled...), Sais, Scythes, Sickles, Scissors, etc...
they most likely mixed and altered the clothes as well, like we do. You'd have to dive pretty deep into fashion history and such to make full sense of why certain clothes seems to fit into several categories
There's also the fact, that most clothes were home-made at that time, so people could add their own unique touches to their outfits, rather than being mass-produced according to specific templates. In a way, every article of clothing at that time was basically a unique thing.
This is great. With all my study of French language and culture, I've never seen the clothing broken down like this. I learned a lot. In French, "H" is not pronounced. Hérigaut is pronounced "air - ee - go" Cotehardie is pronounced something like 'co - tar - dee'. There is no nasal in bliaut. 'Blee - oh' The 'au' combination makes the sound "oh". There is no stress in French, so tabard (from the French tabarde) is pronounced with equal stress on both syllables, and the "a" in both syllables is "ah". Hope this is helpful.
That would be fine if English was French but it isn't. These words in use in England or other non French speaking Medieval countries, would either have their own names or be pronounced in the local vernacular, A lot of French words used in English bear little resemblance to the original French much past 1066. Then we have the difference between Old, middle, and modern English.. Oh the joy of language. French of course has also changed itself.
@@tompatterson1548 To a certain extent, but vowels haven't changed much except for diphthongs and triphthongs. H still either not pronounced or pronounced gutturally. Of course, there was the difference between la langue d'oc and la langue d'ouil. You may be interested in listening to this: th-cam.com/video/Vv0yd1of4U4/w-d-xo.html What changed more than the pronunciation are the words themselves.
Regarding "to dress" and "dress" in English, you also have parrallels with French "se vêtir"-> "vêtement" ("something thing that is worn") and Japanese "着る" (kiru) -> "着物" (kimono) which litterally means "the thing you wear". Seems like a lot of languages simply name "clothings" as "that stuff you dress in" and when it's a common type of cloth it can end up being synonymous with it (like dress and kimono).
Also „Kleidung“ in German, which literally means „clothing“, whilst „Kleid“, meaning „Dress“ is mostly used for female garments nowadays, even though it’s not originally intended so.
I’m so happy you’re doing the Serf video, I’ve always believed that they had more freedom and were better off than we thought. Cheers Shad, excellent video as always
Being a Serf meant being close to property of the Lord of the manner you worked the lands kept the animals and farmed, in exchange you were to be protected in the
12:29 In concern to sleeves, they were the HIEGHT of fashion in medieval times, it allowed a lot of tailors to set themselves apart, since they could show off their technical talent with how they designed the sleeves (size, shape, inner sleeve, embroidery, etc.)
Wow, super honored that you mentioned me in your video! I continue to wear the kjortel and find that it has surpassed any other garment, including modern high-tech fabric jackets, for functionability and durability under some pretty extreme winter conditions. Thanks for your awesome channel!!!!
👉Shad-- I think you're referring to "sumptuary laws" which precluded peasants from wearing certain colors or using certain fabrics associated with the upper classes. Actually, there's a host of reasons, and many complexities and cultural variations involved in the specifics surrounding these laws. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sumptuary_law
your channel is great and all but I want to say something else: your videos give me hope that someone can be this passionate about his interests, be happy about them and be successful at it too. it is obvious that you enjoy the subjects you are talking about and really want to inform people without boring them or losing their interest. therefore you are the kind of a guy I'd like to have at my university as a teacher. and all around you seem like a genuinely good person and watching your channel gives me a fuzzy warm feeling in my heart. thank you shad
In the video by Todd's workshop where he tested arrows vs armor they did some tests with a juppon and found that it helped a lot with the arrow shards flying around so much, catching a lot of the fragments.
... while Shad expertly vocalized that one, CROTCH has always been and always will be The Ultimate Battlecry. Everything else is just feeble pipings in the background.
Honestly, allot of the misconceptions probably stem from people conflating serfs and peasants. Peasant just means small rural farmowner, they can be dirt poor to moderately well off. A serf is a step above a slave and was tied to the land he worked for a noble.
*still just a quotable today as it was on it's first utterance* *although i prefer using the term post digestive matter to avoid sounding like an actual unwashed peasant* *and a just slightly more elevated*
@@Halo_Legend Here's some literary knowledge for you; Pretentious, adjective attempting to impress by affecting greater importance, talent, culture, etc., than is actually possessed.
@@loganjones7808 Probably grey, since it'd hide some of the smudges brought on by your armor. But why restrict yourself to white or grey? There's a whole rainbow of colors to choose from.
2:32 Undergarment Also known as: Shirt. Usually long sleeved. Expected to get dirty (from sweat). 8:09 Chemise (aka: Shift) Longer undergarment. 3:11 “Main garment” =/= dresses Main garments are usually long. But aren’t considered dresses. The length is to help keep in heat. For men, robes usually came up to their shins. For women, dresses went down to the ground. The thing is… men are generally taller than women. So the same garment can be a robe for a man and a dress for a woman, depending on who is wearing it. 9:11 Tunic Very broad term. Long sleeve, short sleeve. Knee length, ankle length. Most often, not buttoned. If it is waist length it may be considered a “shirt”, but that may just be a modern distinction. 10:18 Bliaut and 11:16 Houppelande (vs Tunics) Tunics are usually not buttoned. And the Tunic’s sleeves, although can go to the wrist, are close cropped to fit the wrist. Bliaut and Houppelande are more likely (but not always) buttoned. They are almost always longer than waist length. And the sleeves at the wrist are extra baggy. Like if you wanted to hide a whole leg of ham up your sleeve. Where the Tunic is a broad term, the Bliaut and the Houppelande are a confusing term. Although Shad found some _trends_ in distinguishing them. The Houppelande is an outer-garment. An overcoat or jacket. For being extra warm. Also the size of the sleeves are even more exaggerated. Bliaut is a primary garment. More like a shirt. 17:08 Herigaut An earlier term for the Bliaut and Houppelande. 19:07 Kirtle and Surcoat. “Very much a dress like garments”. Both are worn over other clothes. However the examples shown look more like Autumn clothes rather than Winter clothes. The Kirtle has sleeves. The Surcoat has either short sleeves or no sleeves. A woman’s Surcoat may even have a longer slit under the armpit. 22:17 Gambeson A medieval garment of stuffed and quilted cloth or leather. Used as by itself, or as padding under metal armor. 24:03 Jupon, 24:13 Tabard, 24:27 Monastic Scapular. Cloth worn over robes, or more commonly over armor. Used as fashion or to present a coat-of-arms over their armor. Monastic Scapulars are thin, and shin length. Generally single colored (because monks). Just a front flap and back flap. Tabard is worn as the top layer of an outfit. Specific to show coat-of-arms over the armor. Usually thigh length. Usually (but not always) just a front and back flap, but wider than the Monastic Scapular. Jupon is like the Tabard. But padded, Gambeson like. More likely to have the flap sides sewn together. 29:30 Cotehardie Like a tunic, but buttoned up (cloth buttons). Common in late medieval period. Mainly male clothing. 30:41 Doublet. Popular in late medieval and renaissance. Usually ends at the waist. 31:55 ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) Popular male’s fashion of the time. 33:39 Jerkin A man's close-fitting sleeveless jacket, typically made of leather. Popular in the renaissance. Not known if it was common in the Medieval period. (there was likely a handful)
@Communist Alpha Male Banging Capitalist Beta males Actually, in English "chemise" is only used for the historical garment. "Blouse" (also coming into English via French) is the word for a nice women's shirt. But most people usually just say "shirt."
@@natsunohoshi7952 Blouse is also used similarly in French. Also, another funny thing to note is that robe means dress in French. You can actually see where these words come from, it's super interesting
This was useful, and I'm glad you're doing more "civilian" material. I've been doing a lot of research on late medieval clothing for an ongoing project illustrating A Song of Ice and Fire. I've mostly been taking my aesthetic cues from the fifteenth century because of the War of the Roses. Even by giving myself that limitation, it's a challenge to track down what Mr. Martin means in his descriptions. Don't get me started on the multiple definitions of "surcoat"!
Every time you see unpainted armor, retroactively kick a Victorian. It's their fault - they polished it because instead of medieval decoration, they saw metal and thought "shiny!"
"Dress" in norwegian is "kjole" "Suit (and tie)" in norwegian is "Dress" Also, "Coveralls" in norwegian is is "Dress" or "kjeledress". So Dress used in norwegian as certantly are most definitely used as unisex, if not most for men, actually.
Shad, at this rate you're going to have to be credited for all of the information I'm getting from you. First I learned about sapping a castle, and right when I'm at the stages of describing clothing for artist references, this pops up in my feed!
@@karliikaiser3800 He means the German word "Dress". And while I don't remember seeing it used for suits, it most definitely is a name for (military and sports) uniforms, which are (at least traditionally) typically worn by males. As for your point that a generic term for something you wear no matter your sex has been narrowed down to a specific(ly) female type of attire in both English and German, the same goes for Japanese: "Kimono" literally means "wear-thing" or "dress-thing", but now it only refers to traditional Japanese clothing and (presumably reinforced through exposure to Western use of the term) usually refers to a narrow group of fancy female attire whereas more specific terms are used for male styles.
@@twincast2005 I think you mean "Rock" skirt and not "Kleid" dress, because "Rock" is used not exclusively to female but also to traditional or mitlitary clothing.
@@twincast2005 (German speaker here) a short google session tells me that the German word "Dress" for a team uniform came from the english word "dress" in the 19. century.
I am glad someone else found Medieval dress so very overwhelming and confusing! A tunic is basically a tee shirt. They used gussets, triangle additions under the arms etc. to give more range of movement. (no truly stretch fabrics existed.) To give more walking room there will triangular additions starting at the waist to the hem to add fullness, esp. true for women's tunics. ( I think they could technically be called gussets, too?) . . Some gowns were circles of cloth, or nearly so. After a great deal of reading I decided that a gown was more shapely, and, at least early on, had ties in the back or frontor even the side, so it could be tighter. Buttons seem to have existed, but were rare. Zippers, of course, would not be invented until the 1800s. Sumptuary laws : one reason -the church was a bother and wanted people to reject materialism... ie fancy clothes, make up, lace, jewels, gold... but the impression I have always had was that it was also really a strike against the burgeoning Middle Class in the late Middle ages and Renaissance. As you implied, the clothes revealed your status in society, --- your clothes quite literally 'made the man' . The Middle Class had money, and could affect nobility or even buy their coat of arms in some kingdoms. I've always had the impression that a Bliaut was a over-gown worn chiefly in Burgundy (the kingdom) in the High middle ages, about 1350s - or, at least, originating there. I've done a great deal of research on this subject (I'm a seamstress and needleworker) and also, I am working on a fantasy novel. In the end, after becoming entirely confused, I decided just to chose the simplest terms available. Really, think a lot of the confusion is that terminology changed from kingdom to kingdom, era to era. I am writing about a kingdom circa mid-1200s (on another world, no less!) so clothes are still rather simple, compared to the 1300s -1500s. There are some very good books on this subject: Medieval costumes How to recreate it -- Dorthy Hartley. Medieval Tailor's assistant ---Sarah THursfield
I love that you went to your wife and asked to borrow one of her dresses as a surcoat for the video. In sweden we sometimes still use the word "aftonskrud" which translates to "evening covering", as a way to refer to formal attire. the word "skrud" simply means covering, we even use it for things like plants and animals to say that they are covered in something, often natural.
Shad - What you're looking for regarding outlawed clothing are called sumptuary laws, and they happened in a lot of places. I've most commonly seen them regarding wealthy merchants or other burghers imitating noble styles - less familiar with those which would apply to the pesants.
John Lloyd they would apply to peasants too, just that it’s unlikely to see peasants able to afford ermine. I have a sourcebook with some of them and you can find the Elizabethan ones online. Pretty cool stuff.
@@adorabell4253 Oh, there are all sorts. In early Imperial China, the Imperial Household tried to monopolize jade, so the only way anyone not connected to the Emperor could get is was as a gift, though that system broke down. Later, the Ming Dynasty regulated the size of grave markers by social class. The Roman Emperors restricted the color purple (the Republic had laws banning all sorts of profligate living even for the patricians, but those eventually went away). Silk has been subject to all sorts to restrictions.
@@FlyingNinjaish Some of my favourite are those that refer to shoe length and liripipe length. I also love that people just basically ignored them. If you could afford the fancy stuff, you can afford the fine. Granted, medical Europe was a lot less execution happy than China.
Oh, and the fun ones done by Bess like mandating that everyone wear an English wool cap on Wednesdays (I think, or Sundays, one of the days). Promoting the home industries.
As far as I can tell sumptuary laws didn't become common in England until the very late medieval period going into the early modern. Not sure about the rest of Europe, and of course in the Middle East and China they were doing their own thing.
Shad, my man, let me help you with one: co-te-are-dee (phonetic). It's like "co" in "company", "te" like a part of word "tech", "are" like a verb, and "dee" like a long d in "DJ". And as always, love your work.
Well, Hollywood tells me that everyone wore studded leather armor, and when was the last time they were wrong? In my personal opinion, robes, tunics, blouses and cloaks are the best.
Hollywood and many TV shows would make you think nobody knew how to wash themselves or their clothes and do their hair. Also they seem to love giant stitches as of people couldn't sow. Everyone's clothes are dull and often look badly made (if they aren't wearing that leather armour).
@Communist Alpha Male Banging Capitalist Beta males It would certainly save on budget and they'd have less of an excuse for doing half-arsed jobs, though all those poor prop designers would lose their jobs. They can join the long list of deserving people who lost their jobs to the evils of animation.
@@ronweber1402 Terry Jones of Monty Python's Flying Circus was also a medieval historian. He wrote Chaucer's Knight: The Portrait of a Medieval Mercenary (1980). He also co-wrote Who Murdered Chaucer? (2003) On TV he produced Terry Jones' Medieval Lives (2004) and Terry Jones' Barbarians (2006), Both include a book version penned by him. He also hosted the BBC series Crusades (1994)
Cool subject Shad, there is definitely a lot to talk about ! Funny how languages evolve ! Today in french "robe" is a dress, "chemise" is a shirt and "jupon" refers to petticoat (and I didn't even knew those words were used in English)
I asked my grandfather, who was a french teacher for longer than I've been alive (turning 37 next month), what you'd call a bliaut that has sleeves that are tied or otherwise narrow at the wrist. He says it would be a blaus. Or in modern spelling, blouse. So a gambeson being worn casually is like fatigues or khakis being worn casually by civilians?
I've alway been interested in garmets and clothes throughout history.your channel has really changed my opinion on medival life and cleared alot of misconceptions.
you forgot perhaps the most *important* element of women's dress in the 14th century; Tippets! Tippets are an exercise in sheer excess, and i love them
Great vid! Nailing down specific terms for medieval clothing is tricky because word meanings tend to shift over time. Cotehardie and surcoat , for instance, have had several meanings and at times even meant the same thing. Bliaut , for the most part, tends to refer to a long gown that was fitted through the torso and had very full skirts. The sleeves tended to follow the same silhouette - fitted on the upper arm with a full or hanging part below the elbow. It's your basic fantasy movie dress. Houppelandes were very, very voluminous from the neck down. The were often pleated to get extra volume. They could be belted - below the bust for women and at the waist for men - but just as often weren't. The sleeves were also very full. Sleeves could be bell like and trail the floor or they could be split to show the fitted sleeves of the kirtle worn underneath. The neckline was high and sometimes had a collar. Houppelandes were often lined in vair (squirrel fur) for warmth. They eventually evolved into academic gowns during the Renaissance and are still worn to this day. A Burgundian gown is very similar to a houppelande. It is cut on an A-line, making it somewhat fitted at the bust and widening to a very full skirt. The sleeves were typically fitted. A wide belt was worn just under the bust. The neck line was usually a deep vee that ended beneath the belt. This would show the kirtle worn underneath. The neckline could have a contrasting collar of silk or fur. The gown could be line with vair. Burgundian gowns overlapped with houppelandes and lasted well into the Renaissance. They eventually gained a waist line and evolved into Tudor gowns. Modern interpretations are often hybrids that mix the details from the three garments. I suspect that this is due to the fact that it can be hard to tell which garment you are seeing in primary sources (medieval paintings and sculptures). Pre-Raphaelite painters and modern fantasy movie makers are also guilty of promoting hybridized gowns above more period accurate styles.
The surcoats shown that were worn by women are known as "sideless surcoats." One reason is because the woman could discreetly keep any small purses or pouches on a belt around the undertunic, and while she could easily reach it through the large side opening, nobody else could. I own a couple of these garments, and they're very comfortable.
There was a very practical reason for women's clothing having a high, empress waist just below the breast. An aristocratic woman would spend a large part of her adult life pregnant and even a peasant woman would spend half to a third of her life pregnant. I also think this is why a lot of dresses would have been belted or shaped with a sash, as these could be easily changed to accommodate a pregnancy.
You should make an unappreciated historical weapons episode on the staff sling. They appears in a lot of art and testimonies going all the way back to the 900s AD
Being French I can enlighten you on the word Chemise a bit. It is a masculine garment to this day and the spelling had not changed either. I don't know what the equivalent in English would be, but a chemise is what you wear to work, the shirt with the collar around which you can wear a tie or that you wear under a vest. It's also what though wear under the jacket of a tuxedo. Another interesting parallel is what is called a blouse in English, it's a French word too and it literally designates a work attire you'd wear over your clothes, made of leather, thick fabric or such. Think of a really thick, long apron. The plural of bliaut is most likely bliaux.
@@veraxis9961 That sounds about right, though rather British. Anyways, it's always fun looking at medieval vocabulary since it's so centered on France and England, you really pick up on very interesting words when you know both languages.
These videos you do are so helpful to me I am and aspiring author and you have taught me so much about a field that I know next to nothing about thank you so much 😊
Thank you SO MUCH for always showing a picture of the clothing or thing you were talking about at that moment. It helped so much to keep up with everything. Also I loved your enthusiasm!
I love looking at the drawings of clothes in illuminated manuscripts, there are some illustrations that are so detailed, it's great fun to imagine them in real life. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for the video Shad! As a working concept artist - videos like this and some of your previous are gold! I have to reference lots of character clothing, weapons, armor, apparell etc and alot of the time I know what the piece looks like but I dont have a scooby doo what the damn thing is called! keep em coming and all the best!
I'd like to take a few moments to thank you for all the hard work you put into each and every one of your videos. As a fellow medieval enthusiast and author, I've sought to try and create the most realistic fantasy setting I possibly could for my novel (a work in progress), and for the Dungeons and Dragons campaigns that I run for my friends. One of the biggest issues that I've had is figuring out exactly what to call the various outfits and garments in my novel, and these videos of yours have been a huge help in sorting through all of it in a clear and concise manner.
Hey Shad, i’ve been thinking about this for a while after doing some research but it seems to be the case that the pre-Roman iron age in northern and central Europe (mostly Celtic Central Europe) seems to be a lot like medieval Europe far more so than ancient Greece or Rome. Like for example the fact that there was a class of elite warriors who were usually horse mounted and the fact that power was divided amongst high kings, lower chieftains and noble families who owns slaves that were captives from other tribes (so in a sense serfs, sense they could work for their freedom). As well as the fact that despite the fact that they were not Christian they did have a consistent religious order that had what we could consider almost like Catholic priest which would be the druids, and they played a very similar role in society to the later Catholic Church in the sense that their permission had to be taken into account before war and the like. It even gets more down into the details. Including the fact that the central European Celtic groups especially the Gauls had some of the first swords we could technically classify as a arming sword of some kind even though they didn’t have their cross like hilt and instead tended to have very little hand protection, but they did have large oval shields which may or may not of had unique symbols on them to distinguish person from person like a Proto heraldry. Not only this but similar to medieval people the Gaulish Celts had both tunics and trousers with women tending to wear longer forms of tunics more similar to dresses. They also built large forts atop hills, though not technically castles, they did serve the same purpose, and tended to have large wooden walls and moats, as well as a large central building that kind of acted like a keep. It just seems the more I look into it Iron Age France or goal as well as some regions of central Europe was almost medieval Europe before medieval Europe with feudal lords priestly class and knightly classes... Thought you might be interested
Thank you so much for making this! You have no idea how bad I needed it. I try to draw fantasy characters but I'm always disappointed by how plain and similar their clothes looked because I didn't have a wide enough reference.
Modern man's fashion really got the short end of the stick, eh? The codpiece left but the short garments stayed. :( The houppelande at 12:34 is so fabulous.
Fernando Treviño Castro not at all. Though the outfits look similar to us, to the medieval eye they were definitely gendered. Sort of like the t-shirt today, basically the same garment but you can tell if it’s cut for a man or a woman. Never mind the decorations.
The first time we really see a "shirt" that I've been able to find is during the middle 16th century to the 19th century is the "Jabon" which has the frilly cuffs and collars. These were most frequently found among nobles but the shirt design we associate with the "pirate shirt" came from this. Another issue with making a proper description of Medieval to Renaissance clothing is that the things that were recorded historically sadly was rarely day to day life, specific village life in regards to definitive clothing. The Romans recorded much of this type of information but over the following 1000 years, not so much. Also, the names are of different languages and while some are similar some very different. Example: In medieval southern Spain or Italy people enjoyed good weather much more of the year than someone in Wales or northern England. The southerner wore things that are not known by the same name often just because it was linen rather than wool. Also, someone wearing a tabard in "most" cases meant that they were specifically in service to a Lord ( occasionally a Lady) and the tabard was meant to give passage to couriers, soldiers, house members as there was rarely written documentation of such. In the case of the doublet is was very common for the to be padded and might compare easiest to a fall/ winter down vest.
Could you make a video about most common resources in medieval times like: most common types of wood and stone used in building, metallurgy that was used, and others? I'm really confused when I'm writing and I feel I need to describe a building inside.
I'm sure that wood and stone question would be almost entirely regionally based. Outside of the most expensive building projects, all construction would be done with local materials. If you watch the documentary on Guedelon Castle they talk about how the stone is dictated by the area, the pigments in the wall paints resulting in the overall colour pallette of the interiors were affected by the area.
Um one small thing, metal armor can get to be like wearing a mobile oven or freezer depending on season. Wearing a jupon or cloak or something over it cuts down of the heat transfer or loss from the elements during campaign. This was actually practically demonstrate by Jason Kingsley of Modern History TV here on youtube in multiple videos. Otherwise awesome content! Thank you so much for all the work you put into your vids Shad!
The Puffy-Sleeved Jupon you were looking for, would be called a ,,Wams'' in Germany. But be careful with it because not all of These where worn over armor and Not all of them are padded. ,,Wams" is a very Broad term. Its like ,,Jacket" nowadays.
Hello Shad, great video! About outlawing some type of clothing for certain people: There's a city in franconia/germany named Aschaffenburg, where at some time in the middle-ages it was forbidden for the normal citizens and especially the tailors to wear clothing which had two colors overcrossed. (The Top [e.g. a Shirt] left half red, right half blue and then the pants vice versus with left half blue, right half red) This was because the tailors wore this type of combination often to mimic the style of the aristocracy. And so they forbid it.
Unrelated to this, But just a warning for Shad. Its recently come out that Teespring can arbitrarily shutdown your store and keep all the money. Might be worth looking at alternative merch platforms.
@@scottmantooth8785 Aye, I just want to let Shad know as I know people can be crazy when you state historical facts as they were and think history should be altered to fit modern standards. Bare min, I hope he has it setup to payout after every purchase instead of on an schedule.
@@RainMakeR_Workshop It didn't recently come out - it has happened to other TH-cams at the very least for the past 2 years. And Sin is just one more of the, nothing special about that case.
Next time i log into World of Warcraft, i am going to tell everyone the Guild Tabard is actually a Guild Monastic Scapula! And then i will hope they don't fire me.
Wow, this is the kind of content I love to see and it was really helpful for me, thanks alot. So the Gambeson was like the trench coat, it was originally military but then people thought the guys wearing it looked cool and then everyone started wearing it for while. Very interesting.
An amusing note about the dress vs robe debate -- in French (where the word robe comes from), a 'robe' is a dress. Also, 'chemise' is the French word for shirt; the difference between 'une robe' and 'une chemise' would just be the length (in a very general sense). Today, both words are pretty vague and we have an infinite way of styling dresses while still calling them a dress, and I suspect it may have been similar back then. I mean, some of the dresses ladies wear today are shorter than shirts that I wear, so it's all somewhat flexible
Thanks, Shad, for this video. I write medieval fantasy and have driven myself crazy trying to figure out the terms for the various items of clothing. You have really clarified this for me. Love your videos. Keep them coming.
Thanks for doing this video Shad. Currently working on a fantasy novel and I have been having a little trouble figuring out what to properly call different types of clothing. This helped out a lot. Thanks!
Men wearing pants/trousers as the standard garment is actually a recent thing, considering the thousands of years we have of recorded history. The men shown in the photos and illustrations in the video were all dressed normally for their various cultures and stations in life.
(For some reason the spacing in between the paragraphs does not save so this wall of text will remain a wall because youtube) The thing to keep in mind when it comes to medieval (or historical) terminology as opposed to modern terminology is that it is not nearly as specific. More importantly though many terms differ based on which language you speak and to us in the modern day becomes a way to note a garment from that _specific_ region while the word used back then in actuality encompassed maybe every type of garment of the same type. This is of course nothing bad as we in the modern day need to have specific terminology but it definitely must be kept in mind when delving in sources because having preconcieved notions of what a word means based on the modern usage can lead to misconceptions. I've seen this happen a lot, primarily with weapon terminology which is one of my well known pet peeves. In either case another thing to keep in mind is that the same goes for terms that fall out of use and get replaced by new terms. In the 14th century for example the usage of 'gambeson' more or less disappears and the new term used is 'pourpoint'. Coincidentally this switch in terms also corresponds with the period where you start to get different tailoring on the garments, such as more globose chests for example, which creates a convenient distinction for us modern people when it comes to distinguishing a gambeson from a pourpoint. But if you showed a 13th century guy a 'pourpoint' he's call it 'gambeson' (or 'hoqueton', or 'wambais' depending on where he's from) and if you showed a 14th century person an earlier styled gambeson he'd probably call it a 'pourpoint'. But it still doesn't change the fact that different periods and regions had different styles of garments, hence why distinctions still are important in the modern day. There is a good blog talking about the adoption of quilting in 14th century fashion right here: cottesimple.com/articles/martial-beauty/ Now I myself do not know too much about the many intricacies of medieval clothes except for some very broad overarching styles. You could delve into this topic for years and still come out not knowing everything, which is important to keep in mind. The same goes for armour, or weapons, etc. Pretty much whenever you think you got a good overview of the situation you notice something that looks way out of place and destroys all of the notions you built up until then, so you go back into trying to make sense out of stuff. So the important thing to keep in mind when making generalizations is that they are _generalizations._ Now to talk about the garment you mention at around 26:50, that is not what is commonly called a 'jupon'. A jupon is more of an earlier late 14th century or early 15th century style garment. The garment there is a _Giornea._ It is italian and it is not a martial garment, you see it worn by civilians quite often in the 15th century. The idea of taking civilian fashion and putting it on armour is quite common (which is how the jupon started I'd guess). This trend is seen earlier as well, the surcoats being worn by the knights probably being another direct example of civilian garments being put on top of armour. Throughout the 15th century you see many obvious cases of this. Germans liked to sometimes wear houppelandes together with the armour (often worn over the mail shirt and arm harness but under the spaulders and breastplate), many depictions of this. This is a pinterest by Robert McPherson who has collected depictions of german 'kastenbrust' armour, where you see them worn with houppelandes quite often: www.pinterest.se/macs_shop/kastenbrust/ Wearing civilan styled coats over the armour is also not uncommon at all, and done by infantrymen and knights alike. Some other manuscripts which show this quite commonly is the flemish 1470s editions of the froissarts chronicles. I'll link to my own pinterest which has every miniature uploaded from the BNF 2343 and 2644. In them you see many different styles of coats and doublets worn together with armour because people wished to be fashionable. www.pinterest.se/DraugrtheGreedy/bnf-2643/ www.pinterest.se/DraugrtheGreedy/bnf-2644/ These are not 'jupons'. They're just alike jupons in the sense that they're worn over armour, but they're very much civilian based garments. Probably even just straight up civilian examples worn with the armour. It's not uncommon to see people not bother to get specific martial garments and wear their civilian things with the armour. Plenty of depictions of doublets without arming points for example worn under breastplates or brigandines in the 15th century. The garment you were looking for at 29:00 is usually called a 'waffenrock'. Also quite a popular civilian garment that is semi-regularly worn over armour in both German and French lands in the early 16th century. Lots of them depicted in 'Le Voyage de Gênes', an early 16th century french manucript, and 'Der Weisskunig', a Maximilian german manuscript to name a few. Anyway that is my main things to note for now, may build more on this comment if I think of anything else later. And another thing which is important to note: in the high and late middle ages pants were rarely worn. The most common type of legwear were _hosen._ These were basically long socks, two separate pieces that were worn. By the 12th century they had basically replaced the earlier medieval trousers alltogether, though finds of earlier hosen date back to the 10th century at the very least, the best example being the Hedeby find. In the late 14th century they start to become joined at the back and you have a flap drawn over the front, creating what is commonly known as 'joined hosen' and also the flap being the beginnings of the codpiece, though it took about century before you start to see the bulges appear and the codpieces taking the form most people associate them with today. Separate hosen were still worn in the 15th century, mainly by poorer people, but joined ones were more common. Hosen are also quite damn tight. In the 16th century you start to get puffed and slashed hosen aswell but talking about the intricacies of hosen is a rabbithole.
@@zombiehater6547 oh it's really not a lot. I really only have a slight overview on the styles of clothing in the medieval period, I know people who could write an entire essay about this. My focus is more on arms, armour and warfare though there's of course some overlap with other topics, such as this.
Sumptuary law is what you are looking for when they stopped lower classes from dressing above their station .I believe most European countries had some form of it ,and that includes England and Bavaria .
i recently finished Great Courses Early, High and Late Middle Age courses. One of the chaptersin the Early (iirc) Middle Ages Course was about Serfdom. To quote (from memory) the professor: If you ever wanted to see gentile middle aged historians start tearing each other apart, then, during a conference, start talking about serfdom either positively or negatively in earshot of others. You will be surprised how quickly one half of the historians will try to strangle you. But don't worry, the other half will come to your aid. What i remember from the chapter right now: there were multiple kinds of serfdom, some folks entered serfdom willingly, and overall Serfdom was a massive step up from slavery.
People seemed to stop owning people and start owning land and through that the people, after Rome fell. The Norwegian version of a serf, was known as leilending, which translates to renter of land (for life of course). Weirdly enough, I believe "lend*" refers to the land, and lei refers to renting. (to my limited knowledge) Jokes, because fun: I'm guessing the people on the british islands got confused at some point and started "lending" stuff to each other. "Lei" also translates to road/path on sea or land for some reason, I'm guessing trolls under bridges were involved at some point.
Love these videos where You talk about real day to day medieval features as the one about the torches and now gargment it helps a lot to relate to the real people that lived at that time, I wish you to dedicate one to transportation when you have the time. I find it very interesting
A bliaut is a dress-like garment that has long sleeves and, importantly, is fitted. This is really important because it is basically the first garment in medieval Europe that is tailored close to the body. Often shown in artwork with creases along the chest area meant to represent the fabric gathering horizontally along the chest from being stretched. Oftentimes they would be laced at the sides to provide that tightness. A houpelande is similar but not fitted. Bliauts also generally had that funny sleeve thing which was just a strip of fabric handing in a loop from the wrist as opposed to being a bell or A shape coming down from the shoulder. It could be a triangle shape from the elbow as well but it would be a tight sleeve from shoulder down till the elbow at least and sometimes all the way down with just a loop at the wrist. And, a kirtle and chemise/tunic/shift are the same thing but from different areas and periods. They all refer to the base layer. The low ones with all that chest are Italian and I'm less versed in Italian dress. It had some funky specifics to itself that didn't really appear in the rest of Europe. Just like the Spanish and their really weird court dresses.
@@Sodalis_ No, cloth would be "Stoff" or "Tuch" - fabric, Kleid nowadays is only used for womens clothes, mostly one-pieces. But the similarity between kleid and cloth, with c/k L and t is interessting.
Congratulations with the film! Edit: I got a like from Shad! Edit 2: Shad took his like off Edit 3: Shad didn’t take his like off I’m just an idiot and didn’t know that if I edited it the like went
Shad fact even though I'm not shad facts: one time while shad was vacationing back in time he decided to play a game of intergalactic mini golf. He was trying to sink an asteroid into a nearby black hole, but got distracted thinking about machiculations, as he so often does. Having accidentally missed his shot the asteroid was sent on course towards earth. This game took place about 65 million years ago. I have idea what the consequences of missing his shot were.
Well he didn't invent golf, he just travelled back in time to play it. And let's be real here, if there's any good reason to miss a shot, it's thinking about them sexy machiculations.
Categorizing clothes is always rather difficult as there are many categories to choose from. It's a bit like categorizing fiction into genres, where you can classify one and the same story e.g. either as SciFi or as Action, depending on whether you focus on the plot or the setting. Similarly in clothes you can focus on the cut, but you can also focus on the signals the piece of clothing sends or where you are wearing it layerwise or how you are wearing it or who is wearing it. The Tabard for example: from the cut it is identical to a houppelande, which is why several languages use their word for tabard for the houppelande as well. But in languages that have the term houppelande too, tabard tends to be more representative garments, like having crests or at least the lord's colours. In Germany for example, the general public wore 'Kittel' (kirtles), but monks and in many places also the nobility didn't, they wore 'Tuniken' (tunics), which looked identical from the cut, but used the latin terminology, while the general public used the german terminology. Similarly in contemporary German you call a kilt 'Kilt', when a man wears it, but 'Wickelrock' (draped skirt) when a woman wears it. Similarly, the jewish kippa and the catholic priests zucchetto are same, when you focus on the cut, but differ in both the groups who use it and in the used material. The outermost layer is a great example of how wearing things differently can affect their names: Take a square peace of cloth with a hole in the middle. If you wear it so two of the edges are parallel to the ground and the other two go up vertically to your shoulders and down on the other side, it's the most simple form of a houppelande. If you wear it so two of the corners are on your shoulders and the other two point to the ground in the middle of your body, you have a basic poncho. Another great example are hats: Most european hats, be it the tricorne, the bicorne, etc.pp. were the same hat with just the brim folded differently. Similarly the German Gugel - a sort of cape that covers only the hat and shoulders - turns into a chaperone once you roll up the face cut-out to make the hole narrower and put that ontop of your head.
The tabard you are showing at 27:00 and 28:26 is also often called by it's Italian name 'giornea' (journade in French), since you're showing Italian artwork in both cases. It was pleated and sometimes only the front was tucked into the belt, and could be worn over armour as decoration (like the jupon) or as an overgarment on top of a doublet. There is also a female version of the giornea which is longer but also open at the sides, worn over a dress or kirtle. Also most would say that the Renaissance at the middle or end of the 15th century already, though it is a bit arbitrary of course.
Holy smokes! Thanks Shad! Appreciate the shout out!
My pleasure mate, you deserve it!
I realized i have watched your video on Princess Mononoke, and loved it. Not surprising that Shad brought your channel up like this. I decided to subscribe to your channel, now that i know that vid was by you.
This is an awesome shout out! Love both y'all's channels!
I subbed to DG for the Wheel of Time content and stayed for everything else!
No need to sayj
H**** Jesus is king
While wearing a dress in winter, I’ve had men ask “aren’t you cold?” or “how can you wear that in this weather?” You addressed the answer to that perfectly. A dress traps heat like a tent.
To that we say "I'm wearing a blanket, how are *you* not cold".
@@veronicawexel1291 - Too true. I’m always throwing on warm things like jumpers and blankets and my husband will say “is it warm in here?” Not to me, no.
Do wear something to cover your ankles?
@@coryc8819 - Usually tall boots with warm socks under. I’ve waited for rides to more formal events in heels, but that’s only a few minutes at worst, and not when there’s snow. This was when I was living in New England, so it could get pretty cold, but a warm core is key. I live in Texas now and winters aren’t a big deal here.
Unless it's made out of thin material and there's a strong wind.... those morning waiting for the bus made me feel like I was naked from the waste down. Though those were a thin poly thing, so that's my fault for not wearing 2-3 thick wool skirts.
Movie makers "Huh, interesting" 'goes back to ordering studded leather for the costume department'
Don't forget the furry leather armor too!
and leather arm braces.
Needs more studs!!!
@@Spear_of_the_Raven_Ash is that leather made from furries?
It has to be grey, brown, or black. Colours are so gay!
I know a guy who frequently wears medieval clothing in his everyday life.
He had the clothing originally for larping.
Then he found out that those types of clothes are really, freaking, comfortable and practical to wear. And he hasn't looked back since.
Since I came out as gender nonbinary and started wearing dresses and skirts I came to the same conclusion! Everyone should be wearing what we now call dresses, they're soo good. Cool in the summer, warm in the winter, unrestrictive and comfortable all the time and just plain fun to swoosh around in. Guys, break free of the tyranny of trousers.
That's me. My neighborhood still can't believe that I existed.
if you look to the clothing of the middle east, india and some of the more old fashioned south east aisan and chinese clothing you'll find alot of the same trends as medieval uni sex type dresses and i can confirm they are very comfortable.
@@WhichDoctor1 you dont need to be non binary to were dresses and dress type garment and there are male brands for them but you'll have to look abroad since they've been abandoned in wester culture
@@WhichDoctor1 freak
undergarments: 2:32
tunic: 9:34
bliaut: 10:16
houppelande: 11:28
herigaut: 17:09
surcoat + kirtle: 19:07
gambeson: 22:17
jupon, tabard + monastic scapular: 24:04
cotehardie: 29:30
doublet: 30:43
Thank you
Should be pinned
Thank you,too much about dress/tunic rant.
Shad saying CROTCH: 33:11
😅Thank you
Fun fact - In German, 'dress' translates to 'Kleid', which again must have had unisex roots, as 'clothing' is called 'Kleidung'.
also: Ankleiden. "dressing up". Though "anziehen" is more common today.
"Beinkleider" "Leg-Dresses" oldfashioned word for trousers
In Italian this is still the case: we have the same word meaning "female dress" in its singular form ("vestito") and just "clothes" in its plural form ("vestiti"), and it is also the past participle of the verb "vestire" ("to dress").
@@undertakernumberone1 in Dutch however, it's still "aankleden". The act of putting on all your clothes is "aankleden". If you say you just put on your pants you would use "aantrekken" which would be "anziehen" in German. :)
I wonder if kleidung is the original word for clothing in the english language, most german words that sound uncannily familiar to english words usually have this connection, so i wonder if thats the case here?
Some of your mystery garments can be explained in the fact (which you did mention in a different context) that many households made their own cloth and clothing. So, someone's individual clothing appearance would often depend heavily upon the skill and creativity of whoever was making the garments in their house. "What's that?" "Oh, my tunic? My wife made it for me." "That's not a tunic! It's got a bloody hood!" "Well, I keep misplacing my hats, so she made mine with a hood."
Misplacing your hats?! you must be very wealthy, I saved up for 5 years for me hat (but I must say, the damsels go crazy for it)
In Russian also, the word for "dress" - платье - used to be unisex, but in modern Russian is much more frequently attributed to female clothing.
I believe there's a word for Bliaunt in Russian too, though it's pronounced a bit differently. You can hear it in CS:GO from time to time.
@@Itoyokofan Somebody might actually miss the joke. Bew careful.
and there are certain words in Spanish for various articles of clothing that are feminine even though men wear them but it used to be women that wore them and the meaning changed by the gramatical gender didn't
Similar to German. "Kleidung" means clothing, but "Kleid" means dress. I believe in English there is also something similar going on with the verb 'to dress'.
(oops, shouldn't be commenting without full information. Hadn't reached that part of the video yet where Shad elaborates on this point.)
It doesn't have to be a dress you are dressing yourself with. Dressing also means "kleiden" in German.
I believe it's just one of these cases where it all comes down to fashion. Fashion was always able to cross borders effortlessly.
I'm still hoping for dresses to become fashionable for men again.
dont talk about the russians th-cam.com/video/u5A55eWbiBI/w-d-xo.html
I'm loving this because in Norwegian, "dress" is a men's suit, while "kjole" is a woman's dress.
We even have a chain of male clothing stores called Dressmann
@@HansenFT we in the Netherlands used to have a store chain called "Vroom en Dreesman" and i always wondered what that second name meant, now I know, thank you.
(For English speakers: no, Vroom does not mean what you think it means, it means devout)
I love the pterodactyl ones
Shad's Neighbors: "And now he's just shouting about crotches. Why are we still here? -Just to suffer?- "
At least they didn't see the pictures he showed us.
MACHIGOLATIONS!!!
Yes, but what about dragons?
Shad Facts: Shad hosts fully participatory live action DnD campaigns for orphaned halflings. For some reason they love his Lord of the Rings Campaigns the most.
So that's where It's TableTop Time went
Lol
At this point you have to wonder if there are multiple Shads
@@LiveErrors no his speed simply allows him to occupy multiple spaces at once.
I would love to watch those, are there any livestreams/videos?
Another bit of linguistic evidence is that if you want to translate "dress" into French the word is "robe".
And to add to the confusion: When you put clothing on, you're "dressing", while when you take it off you're "disrobing".
@@thexalon good point, from now on i will always be robing and disdressing to solve this issue! :D
@@timpeterjensen2364 I am so distressed by all this vocabulary.
@@thexalon Undressing (un-dress-ing) is also a term for taking clothes off.
Are you telling me Robespierre's name is basically just "Peter's dresses"?
It's like Christmas every time Shad uploads, i love it
So true
My man's is speaking the truth 🖤
I don't know why it does, but I love it!
An old man steals my baked goods every time shad uploads :(
I call it shadmas
Loved the fact that you „got dressed“ and some viewers said: „that’s a robe, don’t call it a dress!“
Although to take it off, I'm sure he disrobed
literally the mvp for shoutouts to other ppl for no reason
Perhaps "dress-like garment" should be the equivalent of "sword-like weapon".
hahaha I love it
I love that!
Surprised Shad hasn't liked this
Efap crossover memes!
More accurately: "Bladed Weapon", since that would include, knives, swords, machetes, spears, won dow (however that's actually spelled...), Sais, Scythes, Sickles, Scissors, etc...
People feeling bored quarantined
Shad: Has basically a castle in his backward
Peter Griffin had one too.
69 likes nice
Backyard?
His backward what?
Backyard sorry
they most likely mixed and altered the clothes as well, like we do. You'd have to dive pretty deep into fashion history and such to make full sense of why certain clothes seems to fit into several categories
Rickard Lejonhjärta it’s mostly because people called things whatever they wanted just like today.
There's also the fact, that most clothes were home-made at that time, so people could add their own unique touches to their outfits, rather than being mass-produced according to specific templates. In a way, every article of clothing at that time was basically a unique thing.
This is great. With all my study of French language and culture, I've never seen the clothing broken down like this. I learned a lot. In French, "H" is not pronounced. Hérigaut is pronounced "air - ee - go" Cotehardie is pronounced something like 'co - tar - dee'. There is no nasal in bliaut. 'Blee - oh' The 'au' combination makes the sound "oh". There is no stress in French, so tabard (from the French tabarde) is pronounced with equal stress on both syllables, and the "a" in both syllables is "ah". Hope this is helpful.
That would be fine if English was French but it isn't. These words in use in England or other non French speaking Medieval countries, would either have their own names or be pronounced in the local vernacular, A lot of French words used in English bear little resemblance to the original French much past 1066. Then we have the difference between Old, middle, and modern English.. Oh the joy of language. French of course has also changed itself.
@@memkiii Absolutely.
That’s an anachronistic pronunciation. Old French pronounced it differently.
@@tompatterson1548 To a certain extent, but vowels haven't changed much except for diphthongs and triphthongs. H still either not pronounced or pronounced gutturally. Of course, there was the difference between la langue d'oc and la langue d'ouil. You may be interested in listening to this: th-cam.com/video/Vv0yd1of4U4/w-d-xo.html What changed more than the pronunciation are the words themselves.
@@MS-cq4xn Surely it depends on etymology! I'm pretty sure germanic h was pronounced into the rennaissance.
The 4 types of clothing:
Shirts
Fancy shirts
Dresses
Stopyourselfgettingstabbed shirts
There's also the more modern stopyourselfgettingshot shirts
@@IndigoGollum you see, if you think about it, bullets are just very fast and small sword being thrown by a boom boom stick
@@Sodalis_ I love the term "boom boom stick" 😂
oh yes, the four horseman of upper body clothes
@@Sodalis_ so brave yet controversial
Regarding "to dress" and "dress" in English, you also have parrallels with French "se vêtir"-> "vêtement" ("something thing that is worn") and Japanese "着る" (kiru) -> "着物" (kimono) which litterally means "the thing you wear".
Seems like a lot of languages simply name "clothings" as "that stuff you dress in" and when it's a common type of cloth it can end up being synonymous with it (like dress and kimono).
Additionally: 着物/Kimono, unlike 'dress' or 'kleid' or many similar words in European languages for dresses, is unisex in the modern day.
@@alexv3357 vêtement is also unisex, I believe. It means clothes in general and not only dress
The little hat accent above the e replaced an s so the word was originally vestement - vest.
It's the same in German. "Kleidung" = clothing, "Kleid" = dress
Also „Kleidung“ in German, which literally means „clothing“, whilst „Kleid“, meaning „Dress“ is mostly used for female garments nowadays, even though it’s not originally intended so.
Reminds me of Kronk's consciences:
"And that's a dress!"
"ROBE!"
I’m so happy you’re doing the Serf video, I’ve always believed that they had more freedom and were better off than we thought. Cheers Shad, excellent video as always
Yes, i'm looking forward to that as well!
Being a Serf meant being close to property of the Lord of the manner you worked the lands kept the animals and farmed, in exchange you were to be protected in the
@@HosCreates that's the misconception shad will dispell
12:29 In concern to sleeves, they were the HIEGHT of fashion in medieval times, it allowed a lot of tailors to set themselves apart, since they could show off their technical talent with how they designed the sleeves (size, shape, inner sleeve, embroidery, etc.)
smive loved shirts cuz their sleeves and hated them sleeves so important
Wow, super honored that you mentioned me in your video! I continue to wear the kjortel and find that it has surpassed any other garment, including modern high-tech fabric jackets, for functionability and durability under some pretty extreme winter conditions. Thanks for your awesome channel!!!!
You didn't pay him? Hmm might check it out (sounded like an ad)
👉Shad-- I think you're referring to "sumptuary laws" which precluded peasants from wearing certain colors or using certain fabrics associated with the upper classes. Actually, there's a host of reasons, and many complexities and cultural variations involved in the specifics surrounding these laws.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sumptuary_law
One day I will make the forbidden sumptuary outfit.
i shall slay thee with my odorned saber *slaps pesent with white glove* DO NOT WHERE THIS, I FORBID YOU!!!!
your channel is great and all but I want to say something else: your videos give me hope that someone can be this passionate about his interests, be happy about them and be successful at it too. it is obvious that you enjoy the subjects you are talking about and really want to inform people without boring them or losing their interest. therefore you are the kind of a guy I'd like to have at my university as a teacher. and all around you seem like a genuinely good person and watching your channel gives me a fuzzy warm feeling in my heart.
thank you shad
It's perfectly fine for Shad to ramble, as long as he does so entertainingly.
In the video by Todd's workshop where he tested arrows vs armor they did some tests with a juppon and found that it helped a lot with the arrow shards flying around so much, catching a lot of the fragments.
Only Shad could make "CROTCH!" sound like a battle cry.
I haven't heard that, in the video yet, when did he say that?
@@jameshamaker9321 33:12
... while Shad expertly vocalized that one, CROTCH has always been and always will be The Ultimate Battlecry. Everything else is just feeble pipings in the background.
princess bride is a classic
YESSS 😁😁😁😁
Highlight
Peasant 1: Who’s that then?
Peasant 2: I dunno, must be a king?
Peasant 1: Why?
Peasant 2: He hasn’t got sh*t all over him.
Honestly, allot of the misconceptions probably stem from people conflating serfs and peasants. Peasant just means small rural farmowner, they can be dirt poor to moderately well off. A serf is a step above a slave and was tied to the land he worked for a noble.
I dunno, must be a king.*
Please, learn it already, it's literally pre-primary school knowledge.
*still just a quotable today as it was on it's first utterance*
*although i prefer using the term post digestive matter to avoid sounding like an actual unwashed peasant*
*and a just slightly more elevated*
@@Halo_Legend Here's some literary knowledge for you;
Pretentious, adjective
attempting to impress by affecting greater importance, talent, culture, etc., than is actually possessed.
I love Monty Python movies.
Shad’s Gambeson is still the greatest piece of medieval clothing though, let’s be honest
Well it's close to winter there so he needs to keep warm
Mme. Veronica *wears it in summer*
Sometimes I wonder if a surcoat would look good over a white or grey gambeson.
@@loganjones7808
Probably grey, since it'd hide some of the smudges brought on by your armor.
But why restrict yourself to white or grey? There's a whole rainbow of colors to choose from.
@@biblebot3947 you know its winter south of the equator roght?
2:32 Undergarment
Also known as: Shirt.
Usually long sleeved. Expected to get dirty (from sweat).
8:09 Chemise (aka: Shift)
Longer undergarment.
3:11 “Main garment” =/= dresses
Main garments are usually long. But aren’t considered dresses. The length is to help keep in heat.
For men, robes usually came up to their shins. For women, dresses went down to the ground. The thing is… men are generally taller than women. So the same garment can be a robe for a man and a dress for a woman, depending on who is wearing it.
9:11 Tunic
Very broad term. Long sleeve, short sleeve. Knee length, ankle length.
Most often, not buttoned. If it is waist length it may be considered a “shirt”, but that may just be a modern distinction.
10:18 Bliaut and 11:16 Houppelande (vs Tunics)
Tunics are usually not buttoned. And the Tunic’s sleeves, although can go to the wrist, are close cropped to fit the wrist.
Bliaut and Houppelande are more likely (but not always) buttoned. They are almost always longer than waist length. And the sleeves at the wrist are extra baggy. Like if you wanted to hide a whole leg of ham up your sleeve.
Where the Tunic is a broad term, the Bliaut and the Houppelande are a confusing term. Although Shad found some _trends_ in distinguishing them.
The Houppelande is an outer-garment. An overcoat or jacket. For being extra warm. Also the size of the sleeves are even more exaggerated.
Bliaut is a primary garment. More like a shirt.
17:08 Herigaut
An earlier term for the Bliaut and Houppelande.
19:07 Kirtle and Surcoat.
“Very much a dress like garments”.
Both are worn over other clothes. However the examples shown look more like Autumn clothes rather than Winter clothes. The Kirtle has sleeves. The Surcoat has either short sleeves or no sleeves. A woman’s Surcoat may even have a longer slit under the armpit.
22:17 Gambeson
A medieval garment of stuffed and quilted cloth or leather. Used as by itself, or as padding under metal armor.
24:03 Jupon, 24:13 Tabard, 24:27 Monastic Scapular.
Cloth worn over robes, or more commonly over armor. Used as fashion or to present a coat-of-arms over their armor.
Monastic Scapulars are thin, and shin length. Generally single colored (because monks). Just a front flap and back flap.
Tabard is worn as the top layer of an outfit. Specific to show coat-of-arms over the armor. Usually thigh length. Usually (but not always) just a front and back flap, but wider than the Monastic Scapular.
Jupon is like the Tabard. But padded, Gambeson like. More likely to have the flap sides sewn together.
29:30 Cotehardie
Like a tunic, but buttoned up (cloth buttons). Common in late medieval period. Mainly male clothing.
30:41 Doublet.
Popular in late medieval and renaissance. Usually ends at the waist.
31:55 ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Popular male’s fashion of the time.
33:39 Jerkin
A man's close-fitting sleeveless jacket, typically made of leather. Popular in the renaissance.
Not known if it was common in the Medieval period. (there was likely a handful)
Bless you!
You are just an _encyclopedia_ of medieval information! I love it!
As far as I can remember, "chemise" still means "shirt" in modern French.
Indeed it does. But it’s also a bit more specific in that it refers to a nice shirt, like a button up shirt for formal/business attire.
@Communist Alpha Male Banging Capitalist Beta males Actually, in English "chemise" is only used for the historical garment. "Blouse" (also coming into English via French) is the word for a nice women's shirt. But most people usually just say "shirt."
@@natsunohoshi7952 Chemise in modern use refers to a specific type of women's nightgown.
it really sonds like 'camisa' (formal buttun up shirt) and 'camiseta' (T-shirt) from portuguese
@@natsunohoshi7952 Blouse is also used similarly in French.
Also, another funny thing to note is that robe means dress in French. You can actually see where these words come from, it's super interesting
This was useful, and I'm glad you're doing more "civilian" material. I've been doing a lot of research on late medieval clothing for an ongoing project illustrating A Song of Ice and Fire. I've mostly been taking my aesthetic cues from the fifteenth century because of the War of the Roses. Even by giving myself that limitation, it's a challenge to track down what Mr. Martin means in his descriptions. Don't get me started on the multiple definitions of "surcoat"!
"What would you call this garment?"
Me: pretty and colorful
I suspect for most of history, that's all that really mattered.
@@Bluecho4 and you would suspect entirely wrong
Every time you see unpainted armor, retroactively kick a Victorian. It's their fault - they polished it because instead of medieval decoration, they saw metal and thought "shiny!"
I literally remember the tumblr post where this is from
This reminds me of Greco Roman sculptures.
Victorians ruin everything...
@@CollinMcLean Literally choked on tapeworms, its amazing
@@etherealsoul9386 One of history's memes
"Because victorians ruin everything"
"Surprise! The Normans!"
and Rome going to war with itself
"Dress" in norwegian is "kjole"
"Suit (and tie)" in norwegian is "Dress"
Also, "Coveralls" in norwegian is is "Dress" or "kjeledress".
So Dress used in norwegian as certantly are most definitely used as unisex, if not most for men, actually.
9:41 Zelda fans would argue that tunic protects you from the residual heat of lava, especially in say, a cave/volcano.
Nonesense there are no volcanoes in Europe. At least not active ones.
@@jacobitewiseman3696 *laughs in Vesuvius*
It works if it's red
No, that's magma
@@jacobitewiseman3696 Laughs in perfect Eyjafjallajökull pronunciation
Shad, at this rate you're going to have to be credited for all of the information I'm getting from you. First I learned about sapping a castle, and right when I'm at the stages of describing clothing for artist references, this pops up in my feed!
In German and several scandinavian languages, 'dress' refers to a suit, so they went the other way with the late gendering of the word.
I don´t know what you are meaning dress is "Kleid" "Kleidung" and dress is similar used as "Kleid" maybe not "Kleidung"
@@karliikaiser3800 I might be wrong about german, I'm not a native speaker and it's been years since I used it much.
@@karliikaiser3800 He means the German word "Dress". And while I don't remember seeing it used for suits, it most definitely is a name for (military and sports) uniforms, which are (at least traditionally) typically worn by males.
As for your point that a generic term for something you wear no matter your sex has been narrowed down to a specific(ly) female type of attire in both English and German, the same goes for Japanese: "Kimono" literally means "wear-thing" or "dress-thing", but now it only refers to traditional Japanese clothing and (presumably reinforced through exposure to Western use of the term) usually refers to a narrow group of fancy female attire whereas more specific terms are used for male styles.
@@twincast2005 I think you mean "Rock" skirt and not "Kleid" dress, because "Rock" is used not exclusively to female but also to traditional or mitlitary clothing.
@@twincast2005 (German speaker here) a short google session tells me that the German word "Dress" for a team uniform came from the english word "dress" in the 19. century.
I am glad someone else found Medieval dress so very overwhelming and confusing! A tunic is basically a tee shirt. They used gussets, triangle additions under the arms etc. to give more range of movement. (no truly stretch fabrics existed.) To give more walking room there will triangular additions starting at the waist to the hem to add fullness, esp. true for women's tunics. ( I think they could technically be called gussets, too?) . . Some gowns were circles of cloth, or nearly so. After a great deal of reading I decided that a gown was more shapely, and, at least early on, had ties in the back or frontor even the side, so it could be tighter. Buttons seem to have existed, but were rare. Zippers, of course, would not be invented until the 1800s. Sumptuary laws : one reason -the church was a bother and wanted people to reject materialism... ie fancy clothes, make up, lace, jewels, gold... but the impression I have always had was that it was also really a strike against the burgeoning Middle Class in the late Middle ages and Renaissance. As you implied, the clothes revealed your status in society, --- your clothes quite literally 'made the man' . The Middle Class had money, and could affect nobility or even buy their coat of arms in some kingdoms. I've always had the impression that a Bliaut was a over-gown worn chiefly in Burgundy (the kingdom) in the High middle ages, about 1350s - or, at least, originating there. I've done a great deal of research on this subject (I'm a seamstress and needleworker) and also, I am working on a fantasy novel. In the end, after becoming entirely confused, I decided just to chose the simplest terms available. Really, think a lot of the confusion is that terminology changed from kingdom to kingdom, era to era. I am writing about a kingdom circa mid-1200s (on another world, no less!) so clothes are still rather simple, compared to the 1300s -1500s.
There are some very good books on this subject:
Medieval costumes How to recreate it -- Dorthy Hartley.
Medieval Tailor's assistant ---Sarah THursfield
I love that you went to your wife and asked to borrow one of her dresses as a surcoat for the video. In sweden we sometimes still use the word "aftonskrud" which translates to "evening covering", as a way to refer to formal attire. the word "skrud" simply means covering, we even use it for things like plants and animals to say that they are covered in something, often natural.
Shad - What you're looking for regarding outlawed clothing are called sumptuary laws, and they happened in a lot of places. I've most commonly seen them regarding wealthy merchants or other burghers imitating noble styles - less familiar with those which would apply to the pesants.
John Lloyd they would apply to peasants too, just that it’s unlikely to see peasants able to afford ermine. I have a sourcebook with some of them and you can find the Elizabethan ones online. Pretty cool stuff.
@@adorabell4253 Oh, there are all sorts. In early Imperial China, the Imperial Household tried to monopolize jade, so the only way anyone not connected to the Emperor could get is was as a gift, though that system broke down. Later, the Ming Dynasty regulated the size of grave markers by social class.
The Roman Emperors restricted the color purple (the Republic had laws banning all sorts of profligate living even for the patricians, but those eventually went away). Silk has been subject to all sorts to restrictions.
@@FlyingNinjaish Some of my favourite are those that refer to shoe length and liripipe length. I also love that people just basically ignored them. If you could afford the fancy stuff, you can afford the fine. Granted, medical Europe was a lot less execution happy than China.
Oh, and the fun ones done by Bess like mandating that everyone wear an English wool cap on Wednesdays (I think, or Sundays, one of the days). Promoting the home industries.
As far as I can tell sumptuary laws didn't become common in England until the very late medieval period going into the early modern. Not sure about the rest of Europe, and of course in the Middle East and China they were doing their own thing.
Shad, my man, let me help you with one: co-te-are-dee (phonetic). It's like "co" in "company", "te" like a part of word "tech", "are" like a verb, and "dee" like a long d in "DJ".
And as always, love your work.
Makes me think of the Coterie from Dragon Age when it comes to pronuciation
I wonder is this is where we end up with the modern day coat as a button (or zip up) garment.
Well, Hollywood tells me that everyone wore studded leather armor, and when was the last time they were wrong?
In my personal opinion, robes, tunics, blouses and cloaks are the best.
Hollywood and many TV shows would make you think nobody knew how to wash themselves or their clothes and do their hair. Also they seem to love giant stitches as of people couldn't sow. Everyone's clothes are dull and often look badly made (if they aren't wearing that leather armour).
@Communist Alpha Male Banging Capitalist Beta males It would certainly save on budget and they'd have less of an excuse for doing half-arsed jobs, though all those poor prop designers would lose their jobs. They can join the long list of deserving people who lost their jobs to the evils of animation.
Monty Python's Quest for the Holy Grail probably had more accurate period dress than most Hollywood movies.
@@ronweber1402 - It's 'Monty Python and the Holy Grail.'
@@ronweber1402 Terry Jones of Monty Python's Flying Circus was also a medieval historian.
He wrote Chaucer's Knight: The Portrait of a Medieval Mercenary (1980).
He also co-wrote Who Murdered Chaucer? (2003)
On TV he produced Terry Jones' Medieval Lives (2004) and Terry Jones' Barbarians (2006), Both include a book version penned by him.
He also hosted the BBC series Crusades (1994)
Cool subject Shad, there is definitely a lot to talk about !
Funny how languages evolve ! Today in french "robe" is a dress, "chemise" is a shirt and "jupon" refers to petticoat (and I didn't even knew those words were used in English)
I asked my grandfather, who was a french teacher for longer than I've been alive (turning 37 next month), what you'd call a bliaut that has sleeves that are tied or otherwise narrow at the wrist. He says it would be a blaus. Or in modern spelling, blouse.
So a gambeson being worn casually is like fatigues or khakis being worn casually by civilians?
I've alway been interested in garmets and clothes throughout history.your channel has really changed my opinion on medival life and cleared alot of misconceptions.
Yer Shad has enlightened me to the way the past
There is a big historical clothing community both of yt and online in general. Check out Prior Attire if you’re interested!
@@adorabell4253 cool dude,I never herd of such a community.
Do you know the name?
you forgot perhaps the most *important* element of women's dress in the 14th century; Tippets!
Tippets are an exercise in sheer excess, and i love them
Thanks muchly for the like Shad 😁
Neighbour kids: Moooom! The weird guy with the castle is shouting about presenting his crotch agaaaaiiiiin!
Great vid! Nailing down specific terms for medieval clothing is tricky because word meanings tend to shift over time. Cotehardie and surcoat , for instance, have had several meanings and at times even meant the same thing.
Bliaut , for the most part, tends to refer to a long gown that was fitted through the torso and had very full skirts. The sleeves tended to follow the same silhouette - fitted on the upper arm with a full or hanging part below the elbow. It's your basic fantasy movie dress.
Houppelandes were very, very voluminous from the neck down. The were often pleated to get extra volume. They could be belted - below the bust for women and at the waist for men - but just as often weren't. The sleeves were also very full. Sleeves could be bell like and trail the floor or they could be split to show the fitted sleeves of the kirtle worn underneath. The neckline was high and sometimes had a collar. Houppelandes were often lined in vair (squirrel fur) for warmth. They eventually evolved into academic gowns during the Renaissance and are still worn to this day.
A Burgundian gown is very similar to a houppelande. It is cut on an A-line, making it somewhat fitted at the bust and widening to a very full skirt. The sleeves were typically fitted. A wide belt was worn just under the bust. The neck line was usually a deep vee that ended beneath the belt. This would show the kirtle worn underneath. The neckline could have a contrasting collar of silk or fur. The gown could be line with vair. Burgundian gowns overlapped with houppelandes and lasted well into the Renaissance. They eventually gained a waist line and evolved into Tudor gowns.
Modern interpretations are often hybrids that mix the details from the three garments. I suspect that this is due to the fact that it can be hard to tell which garment you are seeing in primary sources (medieval paintings and sculptures). Pre-Raphaelite painters and modern fantasy movie makers are also guilty of promoting hybridized gowns above more period accurate styles.
The surcoats shown that were worn by women are known as "sideless surcoats." One reason is because the woman could discreetly keep any small purses or pouches on a belt around the undertunic, and while she could easily reach it through the large side opening, nobody else could.
I own a couple of these garments, and they're very comfortable.
There was a very practical reason for women's clothing having a high, empress waist just below the breast. An aristocratic woman would spend a large part of her adult life pregnant and even a peasant woman would spend half to a third of her life pregnant. I also think this is why a lot of dresses would have been belted or shaped with a sash, as these could be easily changed to accommodate a pregnancy.
You should make an unappreciated historical weapons episode on the staff sling. They appears in a lot of art and testimonies going all the way back to the 900s AD
Being French I can enlighten you on the word Chemise a bit. It is a masculine garment to this day and the spelling had not changed either. I don't know what the equivalent in English would be, but a chemise is what you wear to work, the shirt with the collar around which you can wear a tie or that you wear under a vest. It's also what though wear under the jacket of a tuxedo. Another interesting parallel is what is called a blouse in English, it's a French word too and it literally designates a work attire you'd wear over your clothes, made of leather, thick fabric or such. Think of a really thick, long apron.
The plural of bliaut is most likely bliaux.
I think in modern english, the type of collared shirt worn under business attire would be called, ironically enough, a "dress shirt."
@@veraxis9961 That sounds about right, though rather British. Anyways, it's always fun looking at medieval vocabulary since it's so centered on France and England, you really pick up on very interesting words when you know both languages.
@@veraxis9961 and in norwegian: Dresskjorte (dress skjorte), which to me sounds like a kjortel (kirtel?) you wear under a dress :)
These videos you do are so helpful to me I am and aspiring author and you have taught me so much about a field that I know next to nothing about thank you so much 😊
Me wearing a hoopelande: "is this a bliaut?"
Shad: "well yes, but actually no."
Wolf Ancap if it’s fitted it’s a bliaut, if not then a houpelande
Thank you SO MUCH for always showing a picture of the clothing or thing you were talking about at that moment. It helped so much to keep up with everything. Also I loved your enthusiasm!
I've needed this video for YEARS.
I love looking at the drawings of clothes in illuminated manuscripts, there are some illustrations that are so detailed, it's great fun to imagine them in real life. Thanks for the great video!
Shad having a laugh at french words cracks me up so much
Thanks for the video Shad! As a working concept artist - videos like this and some of your previous are gold! I have to reference lots of character clothing, weapons, armor, apparell etc and alot of the time I know what the piece looks like but I dont have a scooby doo what the damn thing is called! keep em coming and all the best!
I'd like to take a few moments to thank you for all the hard work you put into each and every one of your videos.
As a fellow medieval enthusiast and author, I've sought to try and create the most realistic fantasy setting I possibly could for my novel (a work in progress), and for the Dungeons and Dragons campaigns that I run for my friends.
One of the biggest issues that I've had is figuring out exactly what to call the various outfits and garments in my novel, and these videos of yours have been a huge help in sorting through all of it in a clear and concise manner.
Hey Shad, i’ve been thinking about this for a while after doing some research but it seems to be the case that the pre-Roman iron age in northern and central Europe (mostly Celtic Central Europe) seems to be a lot like medieval Europe far more so than ancient Greece or Rome.
Like for example the fact that there was a class of elite warriors who were usually horse mounted and the fact that power was divided amongst high kings, lower chieftains and noble families who owns slaves that were captives from other tribes (so in a sense serfs, sense they could work for their freedom).
As well as the fact that despite the fact that they were not Christian they did have a consistent religious order that had what we could consider almost like Catholic priest which would be the druids, and they played a very similar role in society to the later Catholic Church in the sense that their permission had to be taken into account before war and the like.
It even gets more down into the details. Including the fact that the central European Celtic groups especially the Gauls had some of the first swords we could technically classify as a arming sword of some kind even though they didn’t have their cross like hilt and instead tended to have very little hand protection, but they did have large oval shields which may or may not of had unique symbols on them to distinguish person from person like a Proto heraldry.
Not only this but similar to medieval people the Gaulish Celts had both tunics and trousers with women tending to wear longer forms of tunics more similar to dresses.
They also built large forts atop hills, though not technically castles, they did serve the same purpose, and tended to have large wooden walls and moats, as well as a large central building that kind of acted like a keep.
It just seems the more I look into it Iron Age France or goal as well as some regions of central Europe was almost medieval Europe before medieval Europe with feudal lords priestly class and knightly classes...
Thought you might be interested
Yes, Daniels Channel is awesome.
Cool new video and Congratuliations for the Movie.
Thank you so much for making this! You have no idea how bad I needed it. I try to draw fantasy characters but I'm always disappointed by how plain and similar their clothes looked because I didn't have a wide enough reference.
Modern man's fashion really got the short end of the stick, eh?
The codpiece left but the short garments stayed. :(
The houppelande at 12:34 is so fabulous.
my pants still has a CRRRRRROTCH
I'm sad because I've never found the proper occasion to wear my Black Russian.
Its Funny how medieval times are tecnically more gender igualitarian in this regard than modern times.
Fernando Treviño Castro not at all. Though the outfits look similar to us, to the medieval eye they were definitely gendered. Sort of like the t-shirt today, basically the same garment but you can tell if it’s cut for a man or a woman. Never mind the decorations.
Gewreid I believe that’s Prior Attire. Most of the images are from Izabela and Lucas. Highly recommend looking them up if you want to see more.
I haven't laughed for too long, but when you rolled that "Crrrrotch!" I had to rewind! Thank you Sir!
The first time we really see a "shirt" that I've been able to find is during the middle 16th century to the 19th century is the "Jabon" which has the frilly cuffs and collars. These were most frequently found among nobles but the shirt design we associate with the "pirate shirt" came from this. Another issue with making a proper description of Medieval to Renaissance clothing is that the things that were recorded historically sadly was rarely day to day life, specific village life in regards to definitive clothing. The Romans recorded much of this type of information but over the following 1000 years, not so much. Also, the names are of different languages and while some are similar some very different. Example: In medieval southern Spain or Italy people enjoyed good weather much more of the year than someone in Wales or northern England. The southerner wore things that are not known by the same name often just because it was linen rather than wool. Also, someone wearing a tabard in "most" cases meant that they were specifically in service to a Lord ( occasionally a Lady) and the tabard was meant to give passage to couriers, soldiers, house members as there was rarely written documentation of such. In the case of the doublet is was very common for the to be padded and might compare easiest to a fall/ winter down vest.
i LOVE your channel and just how educational it is is just.... inconceivable!
This video is gonna help me so much with my book, thanks Shad!
Could you make a video about most common resources in medieval times like: most common types of wood and stone used in building, metallurgy that was used, and others?
I'm really confused when I'm writing and I feel I need to describe a building inside.
That’s a really good idea
I'm sure that wood and stone question would be almost entirely regionally based. Outside of the most expensive building projects, all construction would be done with local materials. If you watch the documentary on Guedelon Castle they talk about how the stone is dictated by the area, the pigments in the wall paints resulting in the overall colour pallette of the interiors were affected by the area.
I LOVE Daniel Green. Great shout out!
Um one small thing, metal armor can get to be like wearing a mobile oven or freezer depending on season. Wearing a jupon or cloak or something over it cuts down of the heat transfer or loss from the elements during campaign. This was actually practically demonstrate by Jason Kingsley of Modern History TV here on youtube in multiple videos. Otherwise awesome content! Thank you so much for all the work you put into your vids Shad!
I'd love to see you do a video talking about Brigandine
Then one on the Brigantine
If you come across a Delavion goat in a dress, steer clear; that's a duke's sweetheart.
Good reference
The most important thing I learned today is that Medieval armor was indeed pimped up.
The Puffy-Sleeved Jupon you were looking for, would be called a ,,Wams'' in Germany. But be careful with it because not all of These where worn over armor and Not all of them are padded. ,,Wams" is a very Broad term. Its like ,,Jacket" nowadays.
Genau genommen ist die heutige Definition für „Wams“, obwohl, wie du meintest, es früher breiter definiert war, so was wie eine Weste.
@@robinrehlinghaus1944 ja stimmt schon, aber im Prinzip ist von der Definition her eine Jacke einfach eine Weste mit Ärmeln.
Hello Shad, great video!
About outlawing some type of clothing for certain people:
There's a city in franconia/germany named Aschaffenburg, where at some time in the middle-ages it was forbidden for the normal citizens and especially the tailors to wear clothing which had two colors overcrossed.
(The Top [e.g. a Shirt] left half red, right half blue and then the pants vice versus with left half blue, right half red)
This was because the tailors wore this type of combination often to mimic the style of the aristocracy. And so they forbid it.
Unrelated to this, But just a warning for Shad. Its recently come out that Teespring can arbitrarily shutdown your store and keep all the money. Might be worth looking at alternative merch platforms.
*heard that as well...that's a pretty counter productive thing for them to do once it becomes widely known...not very smart...pretty dumb in fact*
@@scottmantooth8785 Aye, I just want to let Shad know as I know people can be crazy when you state historical facts as they were and think history should be altered to fit modern standards. Bare min, I hope he has it setup to payout after every purchase instead of on an schedule.
" Its recently come out that Teespring can arbitrarily shutdown your store"
Recently? 2 years ago already they did that.
@@ABaumstumpf I can't speak about 2 years ago, but yes, recently. As in it happened to a TH-camr called Purity Sin last week.
@@RainMakeR_Workshop It didn't recently come out - it has happened to other TH-cams at the very least for the past 2 years. And Sin is just one more of the, nothing special about that case.
Next time i log into World of Warcraft, i am going to tell everyone the Guild Tabard is actually a Guild Monastic Scapula!
And then i will hope they don't fire me.
*scapular
@@dlwatib it reads Scapula in the description.
@@devinm.6149 Yeah, and the description is wrong.
By this the WoW tabard actually is a tabard tho. Closed at the sides, shorter than your knees, used to show heraldry.
If Shad doesn't make a tshirt simply saying, "CROTCH!", I am going to be sorely disappointed.
Wow, this is the kind of content I love to see and it was really helpful for me, thanks alot.
So the Gambeson was like the trench coat, it was originally military but then people thought the guys wearing it looked cool and then everyone started wearing it for while. Very interesting.
An amusing note about the dress vs robe debate -- in French (where the word robe comes from), a 'robe' is a dress. Also, 'chemise' is the French word for shirt; the difference between 'une robe' and 'une chemise' would just be the length (in a very general sense). Today, both words are pretty vague and we have an infinite way of styling dresses while still calling them a dress, and I suspect it may have been similar back then. I mean, some of the dresses ladies wear today are shorter than shirts that I wear, so it's all somewhat flexible
Thanks, Shad, for this video. I write medieval fantasy and have driven myself crazy trying to figure out the terms for the various items of clothing. You have really clarified this for me. Love your videos. Keep them coming.
Thanks for doing this video Shad. Currently working on a fantasy novel and I have been having a little trouble figuring out what to properly call different types of clothing. This helped out a lot. Thanks!
I subscribed to your chanel because Daniel Greene interviewed you not long ago. 👍👍
And I got Shadow of the conqueror too.
*Alternate Title:* "Shad frantically justifies his love for wearing women's dresses"
I laughed a little to much at this
He's a lumberjack and he's okay.
@@thecourtlyalchemist, just like his dear Papa.
As opposed to MENS dresses?
Men wearing pants/trousers as the standard garment is actually a recent thing, considering the thousands of years we have of recorded history. The men shown in the photos and illustrations in the video were all dressed normally for their various cultures and stations in life.
Love these videos Shad! I'm an illustraitor and this content is very helpful when I'm trying to get a medieval period piece to look accurate!
(For some reason the spacing in between the paragraphs does not save so this wall of text will remain a wall because youtube)
The thing to keep in mind when it comes to medieval (or historical) terminology as opposed to modern terminology is that it is not nearly as specific. More importantly though many terms differ based on which language you speak and to us in the modern day becomes a way to note a garment from that _specific_ region while the word used back then in actuality encompassed maybe every type of garment of the same type. This is of course nothing bad as we in the modern day need to have specific terminology but it definitely must be kept in mind when delving in sources because having preconcieved notions of what a word means based on the modern usage can lead to misconceptions. I've seen this happen a lot, primarily with weapon terminology which is one of my well known pet peeves.
In either case another thing to keep in mind is that the same goes for terms that fall out of use and get replaced by new terms. In the 14th century for example the usage of 'gambeson' more or less disappears and the new term used is 'pourpoint'. Coincidentally this switch in terms also corresponds with the period where you start to get different tailoring on the garments, such as more globose chests for example, which creates a convenient distinction for us modern people when it comes to distinguishing a gambeson from a pourpoint. But if you showed a 13th century guy a 'pourpoint' he's call it 'gambeson' (or 'hoqueton', or 'wambais' depending on where he's from) and if you showed a 14th century person an earlier styled gambeson he'd probably call it a 'pourpoint'. But it still doesn't change the fact that different periods and regions had different styles of garments, hence why distinctions still are important in the modern day.
There is a good blog talking about the adoption of quilting in 14th century fashion right here: cottesimple.com/articles/martial-beauty/
Now I myself do not know too much about the many intricacies of medieval clothes except for some very broad overarching styles. You could delve into this topic for years and still come out not knowing everything, which is important to keep in mind. The same goes for armour, or weapons, etc. Pretty much whenever you think you got a good overview of the situation you notice something that looks way out of place and destroys all of the notions you built up until then, so you go back into trying to make sense out of stuff. So the important thing to keep in mind when making generalizations is that they are _generalizations._
Now to talk about the garment you mention at around 26:50, that is not what is commonly called a 'jupon'. A jupon is more of an earlier late 14th century or early 15th century style garment. The garment there is a _Giornea._ It is italian and it is not a martial garment, you see it worn by civilians quite often in the 15th century. The idea of taking civilian fashion and putting it on armour is quite common (which is how the jupon started I'd guess). This trend is seen earlier as well, the surcoats being worn by the knights probably being another direct example of civilian garments being put on top of armour.
Throughout the 15th century you see many obvious cases of this. Germans liked to sometimes wear houppelandes together with the armour (often worn over the mail shirt and arm harness but under the spaulders and breastplate), many depictions of this. This is a pinterest by Robert McPherson who has collected depictions of german 'kastenbrust' armour, where you see them worn with houppelandes quite often: www.pinterest.se/macs_shop/kastenbrust/
Wearing civilan styled coats over the armour is also not uncommon at all, and done by infantrymen and knights alike. Some other manuscripts which show this quite commonly is the flemish 1470s editions of the froissarts chronicles. I'll link to my own pinterest which has every miniature uploaded from the BNF 2343 and 2644. In them you see many different styles of coats and doublets worn together with armour because people wished to be fashionable.
www.pinterest.se/DraugrtheGreedy/bnf-2643/
www.pinterest.se/DraugrtheGreedy/bnf-2644/
These are not 'jupons'. They're just alike jupons in the sense that they're worn over armour, but they're very much civilian based garments. Probably even just straight up civilian examples worn with the armour. It's not uncommon to see people not bother to get specific martial garments and wear their civilian things with the armour. Plenty of depictions of doublets without arming points for example worn under breastplates or brigandines in the 15th century.
The garment you were looking for at 29:00 is usually called a 'waffenrock'. Also quite a popular civilian garment that is semi-regularly worn over armour in both German and French lands in the early 16th century. Lots of them depicted in 'Le Voyage de Gênes', an early 16th century french manucript, and 'Der Weisskunig', a Maximilian german manuscript to name a few.
Anyway that is my main things to note for now, may build more on this comment if I think of anything else later.
And another thing which is important to note: in the high and late middle ages pants were rarely worn. The most common type of legwear were _hosen._ These were basically long socks, two separate pieces that were worn. By the 12th century they had basically replaced the earlier medieval trousers alltogether, though finds of earlier hosen date back to the 10th century at the very least, the best example being the Hedeby find.
In the late 14th century they start to become joined at the back and you have a flap drawn over the front, creating what is commonly known as 'joined hosen' and also the flap being the beginnings of the codpiece, though it took about century before you start to see the bulges appear and the codpieces taking the form most people associate them with today. Separate hosen were still worn in the 15th century, mainly by poorer people, but joined ones were more common. Hosen are also quite damn tight. In the 16th century you start to get puffed and slashed hosen aswell but talking about the intricacies of hosen is a rabbithole.
You have to hold the shift key while pressing space.
Tried it but it doesn't seem to work. Ah well
Holy shit thats a lot of information and way more effort that was put into that single comment than anything ive ever done yet
@@zombiehater6547 oh it's really not a lot. I really only have a slight overview on the styles of clothing in the medieval period, I know people who could write an entire essay about this.
My focus is more on arms, armour and warfare though there's of course some overlap with other topics, such as this.
@@matthewmuir8884 now you made me think that the comment section runs on MS Word 97
Sumptuary law is what you are looking for when they stopped lower classes from dressing above their station .I believe most European countries had some form of it ,and that includes England and Bavaria .
i recently finished Great Courses Early, High and Late Middle Age courses. One of the chaptersin the Early (iirc) Middle Ages Course was about Serfdom.
To quote (from memory) the professor: If you ever wanted to see gentile middle aged historians start tearing each other apart, then, during a conference, start talking about serfdom either positively or negatively in earshot of others. You will be surprised how quickly one half of the historians will try to strangle you. But don't worry, the other half will come to your aid.
What i remember from the chapter right now: there were multiple kinds of serfdom, some folks entered serfdom willingly, and overall Serfdom was a massive step up from slavery.
People seemed to stop owning people and start owning land and through that the people, after Rome fell.
The Norwegian version of a serf, was known as leilending, which translates to renter of land (for life of course).
Weirdly enough, I believe "lend*" refers to the land, and lei refers to renting.
(to my limited knowledge)
Jokes, because fun:
I'm guessing the people on the british islands got confused at some point and started "lending" stuff to each other.
"Lei" also translates to road/path on sea or land for some reason, I'm guessing trolls under bridges were involved at some point.
Love these videos where You talk about real day to day medieval features as the one about the torches and now gargment it helps a lot to relate to the real people that lived at that time, I wish you to dedicate one to transportation when you have the time. I find it very interesting
A bliaut is a dress-like garment that has long sleeves and, importantly, is fitted. This is really important because it is basically the first garment in medieval Europe that is tailored close to the body. Often shown in artwork with creases along the chest area meant to represent the fabric gathering horizontally along the chest from being stretched. Oftentimes they would be laced at the sides to provide that tightness. A houpelande is similar but not fitted. Bliauts also generally had that funny sleeve thing which was just a strip of fabric handing in a loop from the wrist as opposed to being a bell or A shape coming down from the shoulder. It could be a triangle shape from the elbow as well but it would be a tight sleeve from shoulder down till the elbow at least and sometimes all the way down with just a loop at the wrist.
And, a kirtle and chemise/tunic/shift are the same thing but from different areas and periods. They all refer to the base layer.
The low ones with all that chest are Italian and I'm less versed in Italian dress. It had some funky specifics to itself that didn't really appear in the rest of Europe. Just like the Spanish and their really weird court dresses.
Just like in German: "Kleid" means dress, but "Kleidung" means clothes.
that also applies for the word 'dress'. it can mean both, depending on context (tho it's usually dress as in kleid)
Or "Kleider" is both the plural for dresses but also an oldfashioned word for clothes as in "Des Kaisers neue Kleider" (Emperors new clothes).
Not to forget the old word for trousers: Beinkleider, literally "leg dress"
Isn't kleid cloth?
@@Sodalis_ No, cloth would be "Stoff" or "Tuch" - fabric, Kleid nowadays is only used for womens clothes, mostly one-pieces. But the similarity between kleid and cloth, with c/k L and t is interessting.
Congratulations with the film!
Edit: I got a like from Shad!
Edit 2: Shad took his like off
Edit 3: Shad didn’t take his like off I’m just an idiot and didn’t know that if I edited it the like went
When you edit the comment, the heart goes away
Oh
What film tho?
@@johnx140 Shadow of the Conqueror kickstarter project!
Thats why you dont edit your comment to tell everybody he liked it.
They can already see the heart.
Shad fact even though I'm not shad facts: one time while shad was vacationing back in time he decided to play a game of intergalactic mini golf. He was trying to sink an asteroid into a nearby black hole, but got distracted thinking about machiculations, as he so often does. Having accidentally missed his shot the asteroid was sent on course towards earth. This game took place about 65 million years ago. I have idea what the consequences of missing his shot were.
The only problem I have with this is it implies the inventor of golf, Shad, has missed a shot. I think there was some sabatoge
Well he didn't invent golf, he just travelled back in time to play it. And let's be real here, if there's any good reason to miss a shot, it's thinking about them sexy machiculations.
So that's what happens to the dinosaurs?
It's very possible.
This reminds me of Lister playing galactic billiard...
Categorizing clothes is always rather difficult as there are many categories to choose from. It's a bit like categorizing fiction into genres, where you can classify one and the same story e.g. either as SciFi or as Action, depending on whether you focus on the plot or the setting. Similarly in clothes you can focus on the cut, but you can also focus on the signals the piece of clothing sends or where you are wearing it layerwise or how you are wearing it or who is wearing it. The Tabard for example: from the cut it is identical to a houppelande, which is why several languages use their word for tabard for the houppelande as well. But in languages that have the term houppelande too, tabard tends to be more representative garments, like having crests or at least the lord's colours.
In Germany for example, the general public wore 'Kittel' (kirtles), but monks and in many places also the nobility didn't, they wore 'Tuniken' (tunics), which looked identical from the cut, but used the latin terminology, while the general public used the german terminology. Similarly in contemporary German you call a kilt 'Kilt', when a man wears it, but 'Wickelrock' (draped skirt) when a woman wears it.
Similarly, the jewish kippa and the catholic priests zucchetto are same, when you focus on the cut, but differ in both the groups who use it and in the used material.
The outermost layer is a great example of how wearing things differently can affect their names: Take a square peace of cloth with a hole in the middle. If you wear it so two of the edges are parallel to the ground and the other two go up vertically to your shoulders and down on the other side, it's the most simple form of a houppelande. If you wear it so two of the corners are on your shoulders and the other two point to the ground in the middle of your body, you have a basic poncho.
Another great example are hats: Most european hats, be it the tricorne, the bicorne, etc.pp. were the same hat with just the brim folded differently. Similarly the German Gugel - a sort of cape that covers only the hat and shoulders - turns into a chaperone once you roll up the face cut-out to make the hole narrower and put that ontop of your head.
The tabard you are showing at 27:00 and 28:26 is also often called by it's Italian name 'giornea' (journade in French), since you're showing Italian artwork in both cases. It was pleated and sometimes only the front was tucked into the belt, and could be worn over armour as decoration (like the jupon) or as an overgarment on top of a doublet. There is also a female version of the giornea which is longer but also open at the sides, worn over a dress or kirtle. Also most would say that the Renaissance at the middle or end of the 15th century already, though it is a bit arbitrary of course.