Sealing My RV's Underbelly One Year Follow-up // Was It A Mistake? // Watch Before Sealing Yours
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ส.ค. 2024
- About a year ago I published a video titled, "The Truth About Your RV's Heated & Enclosed Underbelly // Air Sealing for Comfort and No Critters." I got a lot of helpful feedback and comments and so in today's video I'm answering the question, "Was it a mistake to seal my RVs underbelly?" In other words after a year of camping in my fifth wheel with a sealed underbelly, what are my thoughts? Are there any changes I'd make to sealing my underbelly if I could do it all over again? I discuss my findings and results firsthand. This video applies mainly to sealing the underbelly on towable RVs such as fifth wheels and travel trailers.
I also clear up some confusion from my previous video where I could have explained better and highlighted some of the nuances, and so forgive me in advance for not doing a better job first time around! Thank you to all in the previous comments and questions for helping me see the ambiguities.
And, last I interact with some of the previous viewers that were strongly opposed to the concept of sealing the underbelly on your RV...many of which who actually work in the RV industry as service techs. Again, thank you to all from my previous video for the helpful feedback and comments.
In the end, what do you think? Is it a good idea to seal your RV's underbelly, or do you think it is better to let your underbelly "breathe" like most RV manufacturers ship their finished products to dealers? Let me know what you think in the comments below. And, if you didn't catch my previous video here's a link to it:
The Truth About Your RV's Heated & Enclosed Underbelly // Air Sealing for Comfort and No Critters
• The Truth About Your R...
00:00 Intro
02:58 Benefits of Sealed Underbelly
16:41 Misconceptions of Sealed Underbelly
27:45 Response to Opponents of Sealed Underbelly
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Hey Jay, no way is sealing the underbelly (the way you did) a bad idea!!
Reflecting back on the original video and following what you did, by sealing up mine.... it's been a game-changer!
Per my previous comments, I've gone allot further than you did when sealing up the underbelly. I've installed R31 insulation throughout the entire belly, as well as spray foamed all the holes in the frame that hydraulic lines come through, and since I've completed the entire project last (Wisconsin) winter, I hadn't frozen pipes.
An additional benefit was the furnace wasn't running continuous in single digit temps.
As for the vent in the stairs, I've taken spare window screen and stapled it to the backside to prevent any flys from coming into the coach from the basement. And yes, if you leave the basement doors open long enough, the flys and other bugs will fly in and then come directly into the living area....
I believe those who argue about making repairs harder due to sealing up the belly, really don't value how the everyday benefits outweigh the "extra" work that comes with sealing it up.
Finally, those of us that personally take the time to complete this tedious task, are not the type to call a tech to come fix a problem for us.
Thanks again for a good video Jay!
Lovin' your extra details and insulation! I can only imagine your temps are much more extreme and colder. Thank you for sharing.
As an insulation contractor I absolutely think it’s a good thing to do. Everything has pros and cons but I know the benefit from this outweighs the bad. I will be doing this to our unit soon.
It's always good to seal the under belly, always! I'm a believer in making those "trap doors" also. It's so much handier to get to those hard to service areas, as you mentioned.
You were right in sealing your rig , I did mine as soon as I got it home .
Great video(s) Jay! As an engineer, very much appreciate the detail you provided.
I had a leak on my coach due to operator error - poorly crimped pex connection when I installed shutoffs for my outdoor shower. Without a place for the water to get out, I didn't find the problem until my underbelly and (very wet) insulation dropped out the bottom onto the ground. So to get home, went to a local lumber yard and had 3 1x4's cut that I essentially put in as bed slats after giving a few days for things to dry out. I found that I didn't need to secure the bed slats as the weight above has kept them in place for over 4 years now. The 2nd thing I did was to make some 6" "fender" washers out of melamine (painted) to help support places the underbelly was sagging due to being stretched by the wed insulation. I didn't seal these where I screwed them into cross members so that there was a path for water to escape should I make yet another mistake with RV plumbing.
And to your point about folks in the RV industry who don't seem to be RV customers. I couldn't agree more. How many of us look at an RV and wonder who it was designed for. I'm looking to upgrade to a "4 season" and have noticed a trend. Why don't extended season trailers offer a place to put coats? I'm generalizing as it's true of all trailers and I'm sure we all have our list of obvious (to us) things that designers - who aren't RVers, overlook- but sure makes your point.
Glad I found your channel!
Great ideas, and great points. Thank you!
Great series of videos. I will be replacing the coroplast on my rv next week. I’ll definitely seal her up. Thanks for the pointers!
Thank you, glad to hear it!
I just wanted to say that I found this interesting as I just got my first travel trailer about 6 months ago. I've had truck campers in the past and those were easily heated due mainly to being small spaces. My trailer is the polar package so it has the covered belly. I have been thinking about adding a layer of the polystyrene foam panels. Screwed to the ribs. As far as sealing goes, you don't want to make it airtight. You should have a little fresh air exchange. I have built houses for over 30 years and the homes nowadays are very airtight. But they have what are called air handlers. The air handlers take the warm stale air from inside, pass it through a heat exchanger and transfer it to the incoming fresh air. That type of system is to bulky for use in RV's. My advice is to close up the larger air flows or add a layer of insulation which in itself will greatly reduce air flow but not totally.
Love the idea so thanks I know what I will be doing this spring.
Thank you, glad to hear it.
Nice explanation. Very helpful. I have a sealed under belly and now have to gain access. Cutting a small access door is going to be a huge time saver.
Thank you. Hope it goes smoothly for you.
I'd rather pay the service tech extra money for their time to cut the tape than I would to repair critter damage. Not to mention the savings in propane during the winter!
I've already got one mouse on board who's made their way into the ceiling of my bedroom last night. I'm gonna set some poison up there so he goes looking for water tonight and likely seal my underbelly tomorrow. You should have an affiliate link for Ziptape 😂
Thanks for the help! 5yrs as a fulltimer and I'm always learning new. Just replaced a transfer switch solo yesterday and feeling pretty motivated to keep the maintenance rolling while it's warm out! Thanks again!
Thank you. Great point! Those mice can be pesky.
Thanks for this very well done video. My Grand Design 5th wheel also has those weep holes in the underbelly coroplast. I think water can drain out and the insulation will stop most of air infiltration from the weep holes. If you need to reinsulate the underbelly, I've read on several RV forums that rock wool insulation is what should be used in the underbelly instead of fiberglass insulation because rock wool doesn't get ruined from water like fiberglass insulation. Foam insulation board has no issues with water either but its more difficult to install around pipes ect. Where as rock wool insulation can simply be pushed in to fit all the nooks and crannies.
Rock wool would be a grest choice but there's a big problem, it's really heavy.😢
I did mine too after watching your original video. My main concern is keeping rodents out. Mine too had big gaps in the underbelly. If you ever had to do work all you had to do is cut the plastic and do your work and re seal it!
I sealed my underbelly and just got done camping where it was in the mid 20's at night. Zero issues. I wish I would have had a temp probe in the underbelly to see the actual temp but no problems with mine. It had some huge gaps so I'm sure I improved it.
@Adventure Rocks
I think the setup is phenomenal. Never mind the nay sayers.
Great job on both videos. Sometimes, there are just people that feel they need to criticize or complain about everything. It’s hard, but the best thing is to just ignore those people.
You could agree to give everyone gold bricks, and some people would just complain about how heavy they are.
Very true
Good video! What I did, is I sealed the edges of the cloraplast to the frame with 100% black silicone. Spray foam certain areas that were large. The furnace is center camper so I noticed plumbing and wiring from living area to belly with excessive large holes routing the wiring and plumbing. I spray foam all those areas and made designated return at each end of the camper so the air from furnace travels to each end before returning to living area. Deer hunted michigan two weeks . Keep camper at 60 day and night. Some nights it went to 17 degrees. Belly low was 33 degrees. No problems at all. My temp sensor is is set at the farthest point from heat source. I'm thinking about insulating inside frame rails next.
Great ideas, thank you for sharing
I just discovered you, and I watched this and the previous video you put together on the subject. Great job!
I just purchased my first RV - a Grand Design Reflection 150 fifth wheel which looks similarly constructed to your Jayco (excepting the steel runners securing the plastic along the length of the frame), and I am wondering how good that corrugated plastic sheeting can be in terms of durability. My only frame of reference is from my childhood, when my parents purchased a new 1978 Holiday Rambler travel trailer. My dad insisted on that trailer, as it was one of the very few that advertised a heated and enclosed underbelly. I must admit that it was impressive in that regard...the entire underside was completely enclosed with a sheet metal panel. Totally clean except where the main dump pipe and a few other minor pipes exited the trailer. The dump valves were totally enclosed in the trailer and the freshwater tank occupied the cabinet beneath one of the twin beds. There were vents between the living space of the trailer and the underbelly much like we see today. Eventually we had a mouse intrusion, but we discovered where they were coming in (not from the underbelly) and after we addressed it, we didn't have a problem again. We took that trailer over the rough backcountry roads of Idaho's Copper Basin with our old K20 Chevy pickup and never feared anything coming apart under there. I wonder how many owners have attempted to replace the plastic material of today's trailers with upgraded (more rigid) material in a similar fashion.
Great feedback and thoughts. Thank you for sharing. Definitely seems like an area where RV manufacturers could improve and innovate significantly.
I sealed mine over 10 years ago. No regrets. I easily use it in temperatures in the teens. But for most RV owners, this won't make a difference for them. If they are in a campground, they are going to use a space heater because they don't want to pay for propane and they think the campground owner provides the huge amount of electricity required to run space heaters for free out of the kindness of their hearts. For those boondocking in cold temperatures, they are using a Mr. Buddy heater because they don't know how to provide enough battery power to run the furnace.
My 2021 Passport has the “weep holes” you have. They showed up when my fresh water tank overflowed into the underbelly from my water pump check valve sticking. I thought at the time that they were intentional for expected leaks. Someone was thinking ahead. Both of your videos are very informative. Thanks
Thank you, appreciate the feedback.
Planing to buy a Rv travel trailer ran across your videos. I was going to do pest control this was on my mind. I was at a Rv dealership and Saw mice running around. Won’t say the dealership. Sealing the under belly make sense. Plus I’m spending my and wife retirement money.
Well done 👍👍. Very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Thanks
Thank you!
I found your first video first, and then went on to this one. I work with building envelope science, as a portion of my business. I consider myself pretty good, but not a be all, end all expert. I think all of your "rolling building envelope" premises are sound. I run a DIY Victron system, and use BT temperature sensors in that system. I put one sensor behind my nautilus system to monitor for freezing temps at the plumbing. The back side of the nautilus is under my bedroom/bath area of my 5th wheel. That sensor also reports humidity. Does your sensor? That would be good data for folks with moisture concerns in the underbelly. I have found my sensor reports humidity closer to the cabin, than the exterior. So you can see the effects of the conditioned air in that "basement" compartment. I need to get some more sensors for my underbelly, before I do some sealing 😎
Thank you, appreciate the feedback! My BMPro temp sensors don't report humidity. That would be very helpful though if they did.
It makes sense to me and I appreciate your two videos on this. I do have a question regarding weep holes, both for you and your viewers.
I wonder about putting a silicone stopper type drain plug in the underbelly, through to the basement floor. That way if your basement flooded, you could tilt the RV one way to get the water to move to one plug, then the other way to get to the other plug.
The plugs could be covered with the sealant or with removable tape to keep critters out while still allowing access to the drain plugs when needed.
Does this make sense to anyone other than me?
Great idea.
I found your video looking for pest control, unfortunately our furnace was destroyed by mouse, it got into the fan(squirrel cage) of the furnace and it threw the fan of balance. I'm hoping sealing my under belly will reduce the chances of this happening. Thank you for sharing your experience with us.
Sorry to hear about the furnace. Those pesky mice can really be frustrating to deal with. Sealing my underbelly has kept them out of my RV for good.
Great video again! Do you have a video about winterizing the whirlpool residential refrigerator with an ice dispenser in my pinnacle?
I do not have a video on that. I actually don't winterize mine as we use it year round. However, if you've got the drinking water system on your Pinnacle with the separate pump, there are a two main options: 1) I should mention #1 is not my preferred option personally, but it is possible. You can simply put the feeder inlet from the water jug into an RV antifreeze jug and then pump that through till your filtered water dispenser in fridge and kitchen show the antifreeze. Of course only use RV antifreeze. I don't prefer this method as then you have to really flush/rinse in the spring when you want to use and sometimes the "taste" of the RV antifreeze lingers for a while. 2) Other option is to "blow" out the filtered water line. It's a bit more complex as you have to disconnect the filtered water line AFTER the filtered water pump using the existing disconnect fitting (press on outer collar to release) and then connect to a homemade adapter that converts to your air compressor whether shrader valve or quick connect fitting. Then have your air compressor set to a low 20-40 psi and wait till nothing but air comes out of frige filtered water and kitchen water dispenser. I hope this helps.
@@AdventureRocks Thank you very much for your quick response. It's very appreciated.
By the way, I just bought a dishwasher like yours (Fisher Paykel) I watch all your videos diligently and they are great. Thanks again.
@@jocelynpethel1932 Glad to help. Dishwasher is so useful and convenient. Thank you for the kind words!
Thank you for making this video. I have a 2018 Grand Design Reflection fifth wheel and am considering following your lead here. I have spent a good amount of time underneath my camper as of late repainting the entire frame and to be honest, I can’t recall seeing any of these “weep holes” as you discussed. I am going to take a closer look but If mine doesn’t have them, I was thinking of drilling some with a small bit. How far spaced out would you say yours are and do they run front to back throughout the underbelly in the middle or are they only located in the center part? Also, roughly How many of these weep holes did Jayco put in each section?
Sometimes I wonder if the weep holes were accidentally made, some kind of damage to the corrugated plastic during manufacturing as they seem more random the more I look at them. Anyway I'd say they are every 3-4' and mostly toward center. I added a couple at key points such as directly under a dump valve or flush. Gives a little place of mind knowing I'd see a leak pretty quickly if it ever happened, hopefully never.
I sealed mine with the same seal. 34$ a roll well worth it. Cheers.
Options to consider for monitoring the underbelly: Install a greenhouse Humidistat w/ Remote Sensor Cable, and/or a WiFi Water Detection Alarm with a 50 ft Sensing Cable, improvise a duct-fan that could pull air from the underbelly when in storage (it could even be controlled by the greenhouse Humidistat); take a look at the Vevor 6" In-Line Duct Fan (
Great tip, thank you
Have not seen your last videos, so here is my question. Does sealing your underbelly keep mice and squirrels out?
So I have a question . First thanks for the videos . Great idea . My question is where the propane tanks are , what about sealing them off ? The reason I ask is typically most like mine the tanks are pretty much open to the outside air temps . And like for me I pretty much use mine full time for work and stay parked in one place for most of the year . So I’m the winter months I’ve noticed that from the cold temps ice will accumulate on the tanks . I also realize that the should be some ventilation in the areas in case of a leak . But as ice accumulates on the tanks then your efficiency of the vapor from the liquid goes down . Not that the propane freezes but the amount of vapor from the liquid is reduced causing it not to be as efficient. At least that’s my understanding .I have some ideas of my own that might help but I’d be interested in others ideas also before I done anything . This winter in Ohio I have placed some residential 6” insulation in the tank area and that seems to help somewhat but it’s not exactly where I’d like it to be in the form of temps .
Thank you. I wish there was an easier, cost effective solution for the propane tanks, but the only one I know of are the approved propane tank heated blankets. They're a bit expensive, but I guess it's due to the safety mechanisms built into them. The tank compartment needs to stay fully open to vent outside with full lower section open and upper vents open. That makes it difficult when they ice over like that, especially getting access to that last bit of fuel in tank.
I’ve been reminded by this video that the furnace air output needs to make its way back to the furnace. I did seal up my floor penetrations! I wonder if I should open up a few spots to allow that air back up? I Wish I could at least filter that air, but then if I have the underbelly sealed tight I’d not be bringing up dirty or dusty air. What have you found as far as air quality back into your furnace area?
I have not found a great way to filter the furnace yet. It's always seemed odd to me that there isn't a filter provisioned from the 2-3 main vendors that make them for RVs...I have not seen a towable RV with one yet at least. Agree the dust is a concern, but hopefully less having it all sealed.
I've got a fairly large penetration on my floorplan between drop frame section and main frame and my furnace is nearby, so if yours is similar then I'd imagine you probably have enough air flow still even with the other floor penetrations sealed up. Otherwise I'd imagine just an opening 8x8 or so should be sufficient CFM between the under and main would be enough for return air to feed furnace.
Most of the furnaces, even the ones that go under the floor pull the air back in at the back of the furnace. The air is forced from the RV and out from the ducted system and then back in from the living area.
Thank You
Do you have a residential fridge? I have a 36ssws with residential fridge and the fridge is right up against the access door on the RV. The water line for the cold water/Ice maker is inches away from the outside. How do you prevent that from freezing?
Yes on residential. I haven't had issues with that ice line freezing yet. Our winters are usually pretty mild, but once in a while we get 20s consecutive. I have been using an all electric basement/underbelly heater (like a bilge heater for boat) and between that and electric fireplace I can keep things inside envelope comfortably above freezing. I've never taken a temperature reading back there, but I'll have to do that next winter... I'm curious now what it would register compared to rest of coach.
You could cut the tape with a exacto knife easy Peasey. Be upmto the owner to retape the underbelly.
The question I have is how hard does that tape come off? I run a diesel heater in my camper and I have to drop the underbelly to service it.
The tape holds pretty well, so I'd recommend adding a 3-sided access door instead with the fold/hinge being most forward and then just remove that tape around door for service. It'll come off fine, but it does hold quite strongly.
Off topic, how do you like having the tray that slides in the basement? Do you lose space or is the benefit of access over ride the loss of the space?
I like the storage trays. 3rd one I've installed on an RV. Makes getting access much easier and faster without having to re-arrange. You loose some space technically with the elevated slide to clear opening, but given the low CC to begin with and enormous size of opening to begin with, it's worth it in my opinion and more efficient/practical. Also for servicing you can just slide tray either way to instantly gain access without removing all your stuff. Here's a more detailed video featuring the tray if you didn't catch it already: th-cam.com/video/wV46agTKYrA/w-d-xo.html
@@AdventureRocks thanks yeah access now isnt the best for the middle stuff. i have the northpoint 377rlbh, basically the same camper just a few less upgrades.
What did you do about sealing around the slides. Those are good sizd holes
You mean the slide rams and gears running through i-beam and such? Nothing yet...have thought about a brush-like gard, but for now I've left it as is.
U could unlock ur hood fan flap for your fresh air intake just a thought
Just ordered zip tape - gonna put this on this weekend- any additional tips?
Definitely roll it out to make sure it adheres properly, and then just some kind of cleaner degreaser beforehand to make sure it adheres. I just used alcohol. The tape is super tacky so it sticks really well long-term.
I didn’t read through all the comments so someone may have already mentioned this. With sealing the under belly then needing to service, aren’t you just gonna take a razor knife, cut the tape, perform service and then reinstall the tape over the old tape? Furthermore, instead of pulling the whole underbelly, you could just cut an “H” with a razor knife at the sight of service, install say a new valve or tank fitting, then reseal “H” using tape? I like what you’ve done and will seal mine when the weather warms up here👍
Never mind, I spoke too soon. Shoulda watched the video till the end😁
Agree! Yes, seems like a reasonable solution for maintenance to make a door. I like your "H" door concept.
6" X 75' Stretch ZIP tape is now $161.00 on Amazon.
Whoa, pricey! The stretch version is always more $$, but usually closer to $50-$60...very stretchy for odd shaped like window corners. Otherwise standard tape should be closer to $30-$35 for 90'. Oftentimes Lowe's is best price locally.
I find keeping food high in the RV helps keeping mice out
Great tip, thank you
Will sealing the underbelly void any warranties
Each manufacturer is different so would have to ask your specific brand directly. Most brands advertise a "heated and enclosed" underbelly so sealing it would only further enhance it, but I suppose there could be some manufacturers that see it differently.
How about Class A or Class C motorhomes?
Full disclaimer I don't have personal experience on Class A or C, but I think (emphasis) the leaky underbelly issues are less common on the Class A or C. I would love to spend some time with one and gain more experience on them. I would imagine they still have some vulnerabilities and transitions left open that could be sealed, but I think overall they are better perhaps due to the frame structure with rails being more on center/middle compared to spread out like on towables.
Any concern of mold growth since it is sealed underneath?
The key is to leave the penetrations between the living space and the basement open as is, from factory (plumbing, electrical, etc). So the underbelly is not actually sealed completely as a separate space, but rather sealed only from the outside.
Agree there’s no way to get 100% seal. Too many wires, lines, water lines drains etc. if it keeps mice and other rodents out. That’s all I care about. Absolutely hate those little critters. The factory could do a much better product and job with these underbellies. I mean the way it comes is pretty much useless imho.
Agree 100%
I would be worried about mildew if you live in the south. Let us know if you notice more mildew then you used too. This is also a problem with new home construction techniques that are much better than years ago. They now have to install woke home dehumidifiers.
Zero mildew. It's not 100% sealed as a separate compartment. The underbelly in a towable RV shares the same air as the main living space...that's how they're all made at the factory at least. So sealing the underbelly only means closing off or minimizing the outside air, but even then there are still small penetrations such as slide rams and access holes in the frame that still allow some leakage. I like to think of it like leaving your front door wide open on the house versus leaving it cracked just a little bit.
@@AdventureRocks I was actually referring to the living space not the utility area under the finished floor. Many rv’s have mildew problems in general even without the sealed underbelly especially when storing in the winter months. What area of the country do you store your rv?
@@markpillori My apologies for the misunderstanding :) For me in the Southeast I encounter higher humidity in the hotter summer months, and since we keep things like linens and other personal items in the RV while not in use I choose to use a compact, but powerful dehumidifier when storing RV to keep it under 45% - th-cam.com/video/btpii1mjy_s/w-d-xo.html
But, with sealing the underbelly it makes the dehumidifier more efficient in a some aspects since prior I would have been technically dehumidifying a significant portion of the outside air around the RV given how leaky the underbelly was and its connection to the living space. I don't seem to have humidity issues in the colder winter months mostly, more the opposite with mostly dry air in my case, but humidifier will run if needed, just less efficient in colder temps.
@@AdventureRocks That makes sense! Thanks for the answers!
Whoops, sorry. I only had to go further into your video, to see where you discuss rodents.
No problem, yes it works great. Rodent free