👏...... 👏......👏..... 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 bravo!!! Possibly THE BEST video on how to do this job! Tips and tricks. Torque specs and full close-up video! You, sir, deserve an award for your contribution here!
Thanks for your help. I followed you step by step and step and step... I managed to get it done and it runs! Thank you so much for the torque specs, I always look for that in a repair video, TOP NOTCH!
Super Job on Camera work. I am doing this on a 2006 V6. 330 km Today is put it together day. Remembering all the placement of bolts is Good 4 the Brain. Refrigeration Mech who has been around cars my whole life. Still like conventional setup the best. We live in Calgary Canada. Thanks Tom!
Friend it was the first timing belt job ever but The SUV is running great so I guess everything A OK! thanks for your contribution!! It helped a ton! @@chebrets
Your highlander looks like it’s fairly clean rust wise. My brother has one. I’m about to do his timing belt and seal up the motor. They are amazing vehicles. His is 2003 3.0 AWD with 275k miles still has great power and transmission.
This has got to be one of the best produced/least annoying car repair videos I have ever seen! The camera is steady, there's no real background noise and there's nothing said that doesn't need to be said. The speed ups make this seem a lot less daunting. One question, though: Is there anything locking the cams in place after the sprockets have been removed?
thanks for the kind words. Cams are not locked in place with sprockets removed but the sprockets have a key slot so all the timing marks will be in correct position upon sprocket reinstallation even if cams somehow shifted a little
This looks like an ginormous job. You would think the Toyota engineers would have come up with a simpler way of doing all this. Now I can see why people like timing chain vehicles.
Nice Black Highlander~Tough to find the FWD version. There 300-400 LBS lighter than the gas gussling AWD ones. I can see your rims look flawless too~no pitting or corrosion on the edge. They must not dump salt on the roads in your area. SOME DAY I WILL get a FWD 4CYL Timing chain version in Black SOME DAY ????
So put the rear one on in the right timing marks Edition and put a pair of needle-nose channel locks on it gently don't plant down into it underneath the pulley on top with the mark get the one lined up on the top pull it down to the crankshaft pulley is a crescent wrench big enough to grab it where the keyway is and move it ever-so-slightly counterclockwise by 1 notches in the belt that way when you pull it down over it you actually pull it tight at the same time into the proper position otherwise you're going to have slack on that right side you're going to be one tooth off what you get that on the crankshaft pushing up over the tensioner pulley and you got it
At 27:11, where did you find the detail spec of bottom out the stud then back off a 1/4 turn? This is the first I’ve heard this, and I couldn’t find it in the Toyota Shop Service Manual. Thanks.
@@damnedhumanrace Yeah, I watched that video, but there were some questionable items in the video (for example, like putting the timing belt on backwards and not knowing what the mark on the crank gear was for) made me question the “bottom out and back off a 1/2 turn”. Was looking for documentation on this method.
@@Joel4JC yeah sorry I have no official source. I think the reasoning behind it is if the stud is backed out some before the nut is applied, it is less likely to bottom out and strip the threads while the nut is being torqued
Thanks! To my knowledge this was the car's first replacement belt (also my first time ever doing one). Car was showing no symptoms or issues, but I think recommended replacement is every 90k miles and this was done at 152k (I've owned it since 35k miles). Overdue on paper but the belt looked to be in excellent shape when it came out.
Everything was good, impressive, great work aptitude. Except, why did you finger paint and slather RTV on the Water Pump Gasket?! It's a gasket & thusly totally fine, unnecessary to add, any sealant onto. I prefer any gasket, even a nice dry gasket, to any amount of FIP gaskets. Imo. Curious on your take.
you're probably right that it wasn't necessary. I was piecing together the steps I took on this job from other videos and tutorials. The gasket manufacturer did not call for it, but I didn't see the harm in it. Especially as the mating surface had that bit of corrosion
if you want to reinstall the old belt I guess you could buy a new belt, transfer/copy the markings onto the old belt, then return the new one to the store. I just googled other ways to do it and didn't see anything I'd be comfortable trying
I think you should be able to? Check out the image at 5:36, There is one bolt that goes through both covers (#6). You might need to loosen #5 to pull out the lower cover enough to work the upper one free
@@bhadz100 not 100% sure what I used but the guide I followed used 7/64". Don't think it really matters as long as it's small enough to go in through the seal without nicking the edge
I would get a ratchet with more teeth for the tight areas. I have tekton 90t, pretty good and cheap, compared to other brands, ratchets and I believe theyre American made or at least taiwan. I have 2 long reach pittsburgh for hard to reach areas
Yes 2 camshaft seals and 1 crankshaft seal. I just added links to the video description to show which ones I used. The old seals looked ok but figured while I was in there might as well swap them out
Literally everything on these Highlanders is a nightmare job. Something as stupid as replacing the front control arm bushings requires the engine to be lifted off all engine mounts, for example (this is really fun to do on the 4WD models, where exhaust and steering rack need to be disconnected and lifted out of the way too). Changing the rear bank spark plugs or coils is also a royal PITA. Driveshaft u-joints are non-greasable and non-replaceable, grenading the whole driveshaft assembly when they inevitably go. Many other piss poorly engineered items too. The whole damn thing is engineered to be anti-DIY. The only thing that's ok are brake jobs, probably because Toyota couldn't figure out how to make them difficult and expensive also. The "legendary Toyota reliability and engineering" is a bedtime story for gullible fools.
@@chargerification It's called modern planned obsolescence, while still riding the reputation wave of 'legendary Toyota reliability' from the 1980's era. Typical corporate greed has finally caught up with Toyota since the early 2000's. You may as well buy a Chevy or a Ford and pay less, because you'll end up getting to fix the same problems anyway.
👏...... 👏......👏..... 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 bravo!!! Possibly THE BEST video on how to do this job! Tips and tricks. Torque specs and full close-up video! You, sir, deserve an award for your contribution here!
Tom, this video is awesome! I watched 5 different videos to do this timing belt, and yours is by far the most detailed. I appreciate you!
Going to tackle this over the next week. Thanks for this video and putting the torque specs in there. Thank you sir!
good luck!
Thanks for your help. I followed you step by step and step and step... I managed to get it done and it runs! Thank you so much for the torque specs, I always look for that in a repair video, TOP NOTCH!
nice!
Figure out a good method for tightening the power steering belt? Was losing my mind at that part
This video is gold! I wasn't looking forward to doing this job on my daughters Highlander, but turned out great. Thank you 🙏🏼
Super Job on Camera work. I am doing this on a 2006 V6. 330 km Today is put it together day. Remembering all the placement of bolts is Good 4 the Brain. Refrigeration Mech who has been around cars my whole life. Still like conventional setup the best. We live in Calgary Canada. Thanks Tom!
Nice, good luck getting it back together
How is it running? Did you make it?
Friend it was the first timing belt job ever but The SUV is running great so I guess everything A OK! thanks for your contribution!! It helped a ton! @@chebrets
That's a lot of work!!! That takes a lot of skill and care to do. Great video- so clearly made. Thank you- I learned a lot.
well..this is one mechanic that wont talk you death while he,s working.good job.
talking should not be allowed on youtube
Your highlander looks like it’s fairly clean rust wise. My brother has one. I’m about to do his timing belt and seal up the motor. They are amazing vehicles. His is 2003 3.0 AWD with 275k miles still has great power and transmission.
Hard to move on from this car when It's given me virtually no problems in 12 years of owning
Thanks for making this video really helps every diy'er like me.... 👍
This has got to be one of the best produced/least annoying car repair videos I have ever seen! The camera is steady, there's no real background noise and there's nothing said that doesn't need to be said. The speed ups make this seem a lot less daunting. One question, though: Is there anything locking the cams in place after the sprockets have been removed?
thanks for the kind words. Cams are not locked in place with sprockets removed but the sprockets have a key slot so all the timing marks will be in correct position upon sprocket reinstallation even if cams somehow shifted a little
Tom I’ll pay you to do mine since you made it look so easy
Save your money. The bloopers & outtakes reel for this job would be 4x the length of this video
Hello,
Question sir.
Why is it necessary to torque the cam gears AFTER the new belt is installed?
This looks like an ginormous job. You would think the Toyota engineers would have come up with a simpler way of doing all this. Now I can see why people like timing chain vehicles.
Until the timing chain cover gasket starts leaking oil or tensioners fail or chain itself 😊
Nice Black Highlander~Tough to find the FWD version. There 300-400 LBS lighter than the gas gussling AWD ones. I can see your rims look flawless too~no pitting or corrosion on the edge. They must not dump salt on the roads in your area. SOME DAY I WILL get a FWD 4CYL Timing chain version in Black SOME DAY ????
You do amazing work bravo!!!!
So put the rear one on in the right timing marks Edition and put a pair of needle-nose channel locks on it gently don't plant down into it underneath the pulley on top with the mark get the one lined up on the top pull it down to the crankshaft pulley is a crescent wrench big enough to grab it where the keyway is and move it ever-so-slightly counterclockwise by 1 notches in the belt that way when you pull it down over it you actually pull it tight at the same time into the proper position otherwise you're going to have slack on that right side you're going to be one tooth off what you get that on the crankshaft pushing up over the tensioner pulley and you got it
Great video ! I’d rather do a timing chain in an old 350 . That was a lot of work you did
At 27:11, where did you find the detail spec of bottom out the stud then back off a 1/4 turn? This is the first I’ve heard this, and I couldn’t find it in the Toyota Shop Service Manual. Thanks.
Video linked in description: th-cam.com/video/s9LksZmDOsQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Y9dtHZzCHBJY3DkB&t=1463
@@damnedhumanrace Yeah, I watched that video, but there were some questionable items in the video (for example, like putting the timing belt on backwards and not knowing what the mark on the crank gear was for) made me question the “bottom out and back off a 1/2 turn”. Was looking for documentation on this method.
@@Joel4JC yeah sorry I have no official source. I think the reasoning behind it is if the stud is backed out some before the nut is applied, it is less likely to bottom out and strip the threads while the nut is being torqued
@@Joel4JC not official but: www.cumminsforum.com/threads/head-stud-install-question.550354/#post-5704404
Great video
thanks!
You make look to easy!!😂😂😂 I changed my mind from buy this car!!😂😂😂
thank you forthe video!
Hello.. What is the problem with the belt, water pump or oil seal? Beautiful and precise work
there was no visible problem, it's just recommended to replace them at certain intervals
@@damnedhumanrace .. Nice.. What is the supposed time or number of kilometers?
@@damnedhumanrace There is a project to buy 2007 v6
@@adiladilalhmady106 looks like Toyota recommends 90,000 miles or 145,000 km
Curious as to how did you know the timing belt needed replacing? Also was this the first time replacing or 2nd time around? Great video by the way!
Thanks! To my knowledge this was the car's first replacement belt (also my first time ever doing one). Car was showing no symptoms or issues, but I think recommended replacement is every 90k miles and this was done at 152k (I've owned it since 35k miles). Overdue on paper but the belt looked to be in excellent shape when it came out.
Rhode Islander here as well. 😀
@@kuelguy2403 Nice. I'm a transplant but I've been here long enough I guess I should come to terms with the fact I'm a RI'er
Everything was good, impressive, great work aptitude. Except, why did you finger paint and slather RTV on the Water Pump Gasket?! It's a gasket & thusly totally fine, unnecessary to add, any sealant onto. I prefer any gasket, even a nice dry gasket, to any amount of FIP gaskets. Imo. Curious on your take.
you're probably right that it wasn't necessary. I was piecing together the steps I took on this job from other videos and tutorials. The gasket manufacturer did not call for it, but I didn't see the harm in it. Especially as the mating surface had that bit of corrosion
@@damnedhumanrace you did a good job anyway and I'll be tackling this job soon. My props to you regardless Sire.
@@UndesirableOne-g7n good luck be patient
How much would that work have cost if you took it to a mechanic? Amazing work!
Acc to Kelly Blue Book $724 - $980 for this car
100,000 mi. service at the dealer looks to be 1800 clams. Includes water pump, plugs and all 4wd fluids. On a V6.
Should we send the highlander back to the dealer for the timing belt job? Thank you!
🙂😊 One time I used a spree.. Gate Throttle Body 😊😊
great video, how long did it take in real hours
hard to put a number on that, maybe 20-ish hours? I was trying to be careful and not rush. Also filming every step added a bit of time
What tool did you use to hold the cam pulleys steady?
Cam Sprocket Holding Tool: www.amazon.com/Universal-Camshaft-Sprocket-Compatible-Chrysler/dp/B08ZYQT6P8/ref=asc_df_B08ZYQT6P8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507909731226&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16271012236362540012&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002251&hvtargid=pla-1298802922968&psc=1
do u have to loosen the cams?what would happen if u don’t
only if you're changing the seals behind them. Don't need to loosen them just to change the belt
Good job
How should I proceed if I took the timing belt off without marking anything?
if you want to reinstall the old belt I guess you could buy a new belt, transfer/copy the markings onto the old belt, then return the new one to the store. I just googled other ways to do it and didn't see anything I'd be comfortable trying
Can you remove the upper cover without having to remove the lower cover to inspect the timing belt?
I think you should be able to? Check out the image at 5:36, There is one bolt that goes through both covers (#6). You might need to loosen #5 to pull out the lower cover enough to work the upper one free
You can just remove two upper bolts and band the cover a little bit
No, you have to remove the lower
How many miles was on that belt
152k
What is your rig to drill out the seals?
Ryobi multi tool with Rigid right angle drill attachment
@@damnedhumanrace what was the drill size again?
@@bhadz100 not 100% sure what I used but the guide I followed used 7/64". Don't think it really matters as long as it's small enough to go in through the seal without nicking the edge
How to set the engine before I remove the timming belt
You could do either TDC or 60 degrees Before TDC (60 BTDC)
I would get a ratchet with more teeth for the tight areas. I have tekton 90t, pretty good and cheap, compared to other brands, ratchets and I believe theyre American made or at least taiwan. I have 2 long reach pittsburgh for hard to reach areas
that is a good thought, thank you
so there are 3 seals to replace? what are they called? crank shaft/cam shaft/?????
Yes 2 camshaft seals and 1 crankshaft seal. I just added links to the video description to show which ones I used. The old seals looked ok but figured while I was in there might as well swap them out
@@damnedhumanrace thanks Tom...Highlander 06 v6 should be same part?
@@patkelly7839 looks like 06 is the same engine but to be sure I would plug in your year/make/model to ensure fit from wherever you buy
@@damnedhumanrace what is the toyota part# for these seals? i prefer toyota brands
@@patkelly7839 I didn't use OEM, maybe try getting directly from a dealer?
I think I won't make it alone in the apartments' parking lot😅
yeah the only thing that would have made this more enjoyable would have been getting rained on. Good luck!
my advice, dont buy a car wit timing belt. timing chain is wat u want
Literally everything on these Highlanders is a nightmare job. Something as stupid as replacing the front control arm bushings requires the engine to be lifted off all engine mounts, for example (this is really fun to do on the 4WD models, where exhaust and steering rack need to be disconnected and lifted out of the way too). Changing the rear bank spark plugs or coils is also a royal PITA. Driveshaft u-joints are non-greasable and non-replaceable, grenading the whole driveshaft assembly when they inevitably go. Many other piss poorly engineered items too.
The whole damn thing is engineered to be anti-DIY. The only thing that's ok are brake jobs, probably because Toyota couldn't figure out how to make them difficult and expensive also. The "legendary Toyota reliability and engineering" is a bedtime story for gullible fools.
I am slowly starting to realize this...
It's not the best for maintenance, but the generations that came after this are even worse, much worse.
@@chargerification It's called modern planned obsolescence, while still riding the reputation wave of 'legendary Toyota reliability' from the 1980's era. Typical corporate greed has finally caught up with Toyota since the early 2000's.
You may as well buy a Chevy or a Ford and pay less, because you'll end up getting to fix the same problems anyway.