60W is enough to do a float charge & run a well pump for very short runs at night. They can flush toilets & take a 1min shower. Also, best to think of it as 180W as it isn't "just" 8hrs of sunlight. This is 24/7
"1 min showers"??? Might as well ise a wet rag @ that point...Should have realized the same problem most of is have; Not enough water flow to produce the output necessary to justify the expense of installation...With hydro, and solar, though...
I am always amazed at how much time and money people are willing to spend BEFORE they get an education... In todays world the average person just can not seem to admit they dont know everything and knowing some is often just enough to get them in trouble as in this case. Work in progress as you said.
Some people haven’t even started to learn, so they know so little that they don’t realize how much they don’t know. They just jump straight into things 😂
the other side of that coin is that a lot of people never start because they don't believe they know enough. You will never learn unless you try, and its OK to make mistakes. 👌
Could move silt barrel upstream so top is about 6"below the pipe where it attaches to the coanda. Every little bit helps. Maybe also look upstream from culvert pipe, see what other springs or runs can be cleared to the main stream
Why put the cart before the horse. One you know you have enough head and water to do a hydro setup, follow in stepwise fashion. Step one measure the flow rate every week or two for a year if possible especially during the driest part of the year, this will determine the penstock size based on flow and friction losses in the pipe. Step two, install the intake screen, sediment barrel, and penstock to where the turbine location will be. Step three, install a pressure gauge to give you the exact head/pressure, this will help determine what turbine/generator to buy. Step four, install turbine and connect to charge controller. People should consider buying a used cone bottom tanks for uses as a sediment trap, a valve placed at the bottom of the cone makes flushing the sediment as easy as possible and the penstock is attached where the top of the cone meets the rest of the tank so there is several feet of water above the penstock intake. Personally I would have installed a 4" penstock to take advantage of periods with higher flow and reduce pipe friction or installing twin 2" penstocks at this site.
And, when you measure seasonal flow...? Measure in the middle of summer to get an accurate head pressure...They could still get there, with engineering/water dynamics...
@@brentfarvors192 I mentioned measuring in the driest part of the year which for most will be the middle of summer. You do not need flowing water through the penstock to get head pressure as long as the penstock is full of water the pressure gage will give you pressure as all it is measuring is the pressure of the column of water in the penstock.
@@chrisdaniel1339 Seems, the only way to gain necessary pressure is a dam before the culvert pipe...This will assure constant directed pressurized water into the pipe...
@@kishdogg1594 you need a charge control for wind and hydro. It needs to be programmed to the voltage of the alternator so it don't overload it. I think midnight has one. Use what ever you want for batteries
@@markae0 70W for 24h is 1.68kWh/day... I get much more than that with modest solar in England in the winter! Some of Seths other videos show people getting 800W (19.2kWh/day). That's much more useful. 🤣
Dear Land To House, I appreciate all these videos so much, but I have one question: Does the power output change if the water drop (head) is the same but the linear distance to the turbine/pelton changes? I have 50 gallons/minute with a head of 24 feet. I can set the turbine/pelton anywhere from 50 too 300 ft from the source. Does that make any difference for power output? Thank you kindly, Steve
The pressure comes from the height, not from the distance. This is why 'real' dams like the Hoover dam are very much vertical affairs - it's only the top-to-bottom delta that's productive. It's like diving - diving 10 metres down puts you under 1 additional atmosphere of pressure. But swimming as far as you like side to side adds no pressure, it only tires you out.
There are losses in the pipe depending how fast the water has to move through it and how long the pipe is. There are pressure loss calculators and tables if you want to look it up. There are diminishing returns once you get big enough in size and price goes up a bunch with larger diameter pipe.
The greater the horizontal distance, the greater the pressure loss due to friction inside the pipe. You'll get more power from a more vertical pipe, unless your pipe is so wide and smooth that the friction loss is negligible. If you need the power 300ft away, you'll have electricity transmission losses too. You'd want to do the calculations on each to see which is worse.
Your plumbing configuration is part of the reason that the system is inefficient. You should avoid any right angles and use flex pipe from the main line to each of the nozzles.
if you have waste metal, like cars, you can use 100%-ethanol-koh electrolyte metar-air fuel cell with carbon cloth (felt/fiber) oxygen air electrode to rust the metal and make energy, at 2kWh/kg for waste iron. no water, ethanol anti-freeze is -114C, so works even at very cold temperatures, like south/north pole. 0.8-1.3V per cell, 10-20mA per small cell. have not tested magnesium or silicon metals yet. tin, aluminium, iron, zinc works fine.
@@asfaust312 start from electro-chemical fuel cells on wikipedia, for example, gasoline is like 12kWh/kg but at 25% when fuel cells is 80, 90, 100% efficiency, like magnesium-air
Seth has mentioned Langston Alternative Power many times in his other videos and I think that is your best source for more information and purchasing these turbines.
Langston's website doesn't show any AC turbines, which is good for longer length electric lines. It would be nice if he had a few kits as examples with all the components
Seth I have been following you for years. If you want to make a micro hydro turbine work. Pressure or head is important. But why is the diameter of this pma so small`? does Spencer Langston know what he is doing? I am not saying this PMA or the runner is not the right size for your system, but you still haven't fixed the cheap plumbing part in your own system which is a cheap plastic 1.5" ball valve. In addition you use this and other ball valves for pressure regulation, which is really not very good. The diameter of the turbine alternator should be way wider , geared and coreless. I don't see why you would take this advise seriously Also I would look at Chris Harbour's channel. This sound so negative and that is not my intention. Maybe a pelton/turgo with a stock alternator, even if it is from a sponsor, is not what you want.
Great info. The nice thing about hydro is that it runs all day and all night.
60W is enough to do a float charge & run a well pump for very short runs at night. They can flush toilets & take a 1min shower. Also, best to think of it as 180W as it isn't "just" 8hrs of sunlight. This is 24/7
"1 min showers"??? Might as well ise a wet rag @ that point...Should have realized the same problem most of is have; Not enough water flow to produce the output necessary to justify the expense of installation...With hydro, and solar, though...
I am always amazed at how much time and money people are willing to spend BEFORE they get an education... In todays world the average person just can not seem to admit they dont know everything and knowing some is often just enough to get them in trouble as in this case. Work in progress as you said.
Some people haven’t even started to learn, so they know so little that they don’t realize how much they don’t know. They just jump straight into things 😂
the other side of that coin is that a lot of people never start because they don't believe they know enough. You will never learn unless you try, and its OK to make mistakes. 👌
That system is really leaving a bunch on the table in regards to head pressure.
Could move silt barrel upstream so top is about 6"below the pipe where it attaches to the coanda. Every little bit helps. Maybe also look upstream from culvert pipe, see what other springs or runs can be cleared to the main stream
from the quick view at trhe start i can already see lots of high spots in the pipe
If you have the gpm flow I would recommend a single jet turgo wheel instead of the pelton.
Great Job Seth!
Old time miners used huge pipes then got smaller. Able to wash dirt and rocks to screen fir gold no pumps. Start 6 in then 4in last 2in.
Just cut the diameter back the last foot.
Just be sure to have a cleanout at each reduction ;)
That’s super cool love it. Thanks for sharing.
Very informative video. Thanks!
Would raising the silt filter up about 6 feet help for higher pressure?
do you go with the generator directly to the charge controller? do this have a special input or do you use the mppt input?
It goes to a rectifier then directly to the mppt. Surge protection and breakers are a good idea.
Why put the cart before the horse. One you know you have enough head and water to do a hydro setup, follow in stepwise fashion. Step one measure the flow rate every week or two for a year if possible especially during the driest part of the year, this will determine the penstock size based on flow and friction losses in the pipe. Step two, install the intake screen, sediment barrel, and penstock to where the turbine location will be. Step three, install a pressure gauge to give you the exact head/pressure, this will help determine what turbine/generator to buy. Step four, install turbine and connect to charge controller.
People should consider buying a used cone bottom tanks for uses as a sediment trap, a valve placed at the bottom of the cone makes flushing the sediment as easy as possible and the penstock is attached where the top of the cone meets the rest of the tank so there is several feet of water above the penstock intake.
Personally I would have installed a 4" penstock to take advantage of periods with higher flow and reduce pipe friction or installing twin 2" penstocks at this site.
And, when you measure seasonal flow...? Measure in the middle of summer to get an accurate head pressure...They could still get there, with engineering/water dynamics...
@@brentfarvors192 I mentioned measuring in the driest part of the year which for most will be the middle of summer. You do not need flowing water through the penstock to get head pressure as long as the penstock is full of water the pressure gage will give you pressure as all it is measuring is the pressure of the column of water in the penstock.
@@chrisdaniel1339 Seems, the only way to gain necessary pressure is a dam before the culvert pipe...This will assure constant directed pressurized water into the pipe...
Love the video
is that permanent magnet turbine? The voltage increase when the spin increase right? How high the voltage produces from the turbine?
could we connect one of these directly in a solar input on Ecoflow dc input can be from 15vdc to 100vdc and where can we buy these. thanks
I'm not sure a solar inverter is the right thing for a pm alternator. That's why it's speeding up and slowing down
What inverter should be used? Also which type batteries
@@kishdogg1594 you need a charge control for wind and hydro. It needs to be programmed to the voltage of the alternator so it don't overload it. I think midnight has one. Use what ever you want for batteries
Hydro and wind usually create AC (unless rectified) while solar creates DC electricity. The charge controllers aren't really interchangeable.
They do make hybrid controller/inverters that can run AC generators AND solar.
Absolutely. You can see from where it's surging. The MPPT charge controller is the wrong one for this job.
Ouch. That must be gutting. All the effort for 40-70W 😔
but it is 24 hours a day, unlike solar.
@@markae0 70W for 24h is 1.68kWh/day... I get much more than that with modest solar in England in the winter!
Some of Seths other videos show people getting 800W (19.2kWh/day). That's much more useful. 🤣
I think I can fart more than 70w 😆
Do yall have video going over zoning, plat mapping, or anything with having to have your land surveyed before building?
I dont have a video about that. Most of my work is just filming what others have already installed.
Is that a Motenergy ME1112 PMG? If so, what was the rpm at 60 watts?
Dear Land To House,
I appreciate all these videos so much, but I have one question: Does the power output change if the water drop (head) is the same but the linear distance to the turbine/pelton changes? I have 50 gallons/minute with a head of 24 feet. I can set the turbine/pelton anywhere from 50 too 300 ft from the source. Does that make any difference for power output? Thank you kindly, Steve
The pressure comes from the height, not from the distance. This is why 'real' dams like the Hoover dam are very much vertical affairs - it's only the top-to-bottom delta that's productive. It's like diving - diving 10 metres down puts you under 1 additional atmosphere of pressure. But swimming as far as you like side to side adds no pressure, it only tires you out.
There are losses in the pipe depending how fast the water has to move through it and how long the pipe is. There are pressure loss calculators and tables if you want to look it up. There are diminishing returns once you get big enough in size and price goes up a bunch with larger diameter pipe.
The greater the horizontal distance, the greater the pressure loss due to friction inside the pipe. You'll get more power from a more vertical pipe, unless your pipe is so wide and smooth that the friction loss is negligible.
If you need the power 300ft away, you'll have electricity transmission losses too. You'd want to do the calculations on each to see which is worse.
Your plumbing configuration is part of the reason that the system is inefficient. You should avoid any right angles and use flex pipe from the main line to each of the nozzles.
you can probably fix it with another spoon design and only one really good spear valve instead of 4 nozzles.
150w probably
Thanks!
Happy to help. Thank you.
if you have waste metal, like cars, you can use 100%-ethanol-koh electrolyte metar-air fuel cell with carbon cloth (felt/fiber) oxygen air electrode to rust the metal and make energy, at 2kWh/kg for waste iron. no water, ethanol anti-freeze is -114C, so works even at very cold temperatures, like south/north pole. 0.8-1.3V per cell, 10-20mA per small cell. have not tested magnesium or silicon metals yet. tin, aluminium, iron, zinc works fine.
gps location, levels, height, laser measurement levels
2kwh/kg sounds like a lot. where can i find more information on this?
@@asfaust312 start from electro-chemical fuel cells on wikipedia, for example, gasoline is like 12kWh/kg but at 25% when fuel cells is 80, 90, 100% efficiency, like magnesium-air
Where can these turbines be purchased? Any websites recommended? Thanks
Seth has mentioned Langston Alternative Power many times in his other videos and I think that is your best source for more information and purchasing these turbines.
@@kuhrdhe's sponsored by Langstons
@@m1geo Even if he is sponsored by them I still think Langstons is a good source for more information and where to get these units as the OP asked.
@@kuhrd Sure. I agree too. But just making OP aware that it's also sponsored advice. He's not going to be told to buy anything but Langston's stuff.
Langston's website doesn't show any AC turbines, which is good for longer length electric lines. It would be nice if he had a few kits as examples with all the components
Seth I have been following you for years. If you want to make a micro hydro turbine work. Pressure or head is important. But why is the diameter of this pma so small`? does Spencer Langston know what he is doing? I am not saying this PMA or the runner is not the right size for your system, but you still haven't fixed the cheap plumbing part in your own system which is a cheap plastic 1.5" ball valve. In addition you use this and other ball valves for pressure regulation, which is really not very good. The diameter of the turbine alternator should be way wider , geared and coreless. I don't see why you would take this advise seriously Also I would look at Chris Harbour's channel. This sound so negative and that is not my intention. Maybe a pelton/turgo with a stock alternator, even if it is from a sponsor, is not what you want.
What a waste of plastic pipe. 70W!!
More upfront research needed to be done.
All that gear and theyre spinning a baby generator.. spin an appropriate generator and youre good to go.