I contacted BMW to see about replacing the RDC - part was $470.84 and then they had to program it for another $240! Crazy... So I followed this video, removed the RDC, cut it open... and to my surprise, mine looked clean as a whistle! Nonetheless, I took a QTip and some Isopropyl and washed over all the electronic circuits, put it back together, used some Christy's 10Mil Pipe Wrap Tape to hold it together (since I figured the fix wasn't going to work anyway, because I didn't see any corrosion. Put the unit back in and a week later not a single problem yet! WHAT? Was it the cleaning I did that worked? Was the RDC plug just not snug and by removing and putting it back it, it fixed itself? Who cares... It works and I've saved over $700! Thanks for this video.
Thank you for the video! Our system is saying the same problem. We have brand new tires and brand new sensors and your video has encouraged us to try this out tomorrow. Wish us luck.
Excellent tutorial! I was an electronic technician for years repairing radios and televisions and have a great deal of appreciation for your technique. Five stars! 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Wow 😳. Thank you sir for the very very detailed and perfectly explained video. I’ve been having the “TPM Malfunction” issue for months now. Never really thought it could be the little module responsible for this headache. My shop told me my sensors are fine. I have no loss in pressure so this is definitely my issue. I have a 2012 X5. Thanks again.
$1000 for new part and code from the dealer this vid is one the best I've seen and if you have prorool and have purchased the two license s you will then be able to code that yourself as well as all the other modules the car has even if you end up grabbing a donner moduel from a different car
Very useful. Good explanation of the troubleshooting and problem-solving steps. We need more content like this for the DIY'ers. Thank you, I'm having the same issue with my '11 550.
I had the same issue. I'm not sure if cleaning the inside circuit board corrosion repaired my module, but it didn't hurt. I coated the cleaned locations on the circuit board with clear auto paint ( let dry overnight). Then used epoxy to reseal the cover back over the circuit board. I noticed one of my module's pin had white corrosion (likely salts). Cleaned that up and coated all four pins with conductive grease (not dielectric grease). Put some dielectric grease on the female connector (white portion) to stop future water intrusion. Connected it back on the car and the TPMS is functioning again. My guess is the pin corrosion cause the module to act like it failed. Restoring the conductivity of the pins brought it back to life. Preventive maintenance tip. Pop your RDC module out, coat the pins with conductive grease and coat the female connector with dielectric grease.
2012 BMW X3 F25 28i - TPM malfunction 5 amp fuse in the rear passenger panel was OK # (fuse #139 I think). RDC antenna module near right rear tire seemed OK - meaning installing new modules didn't clear the error condition. Using my Autel MaxiTPMS TS508WF to scan all four wheel sensors, I discovered that a single faulty wheel sensor was the cause of the "Tire Pressure Monitor malfunction" error on the iDrive screen. $75 to replace the sensor cleared the error condition.
2011 535i - my TPMS malfunction has been on forever. Initially, went to discount tire, and they confirmed all of my sensors are working fine. I've just learnt to deal with it. Didn't know about the RDC component. Will take a look into the RDC. Thank you
2011 528i having the same issue … The light comes on and it does it’s reset says it’s malfunctioning and does it all over again… So I’m definitely going to try this out! Thanks for the video!! I’ll let you know how it works out!!
Helpful. Thanks. I wonder how the RDC control unit can tell which transmitter is on which wheel. By the signal strength due to the subtle distance to each?
I pulled my unit and opened it up, it looked absolutely pristine. I went ahead and cleaned it and sealed it, reinstalled and the error is still there. The batteries are all good in the tires. So either a bad RDC unit entirely or bad wiring to the RDC? Should I be chasing down things like wheel bearings, brake dust, etc?
Thanks for the video! I have had a similar issue with my TPMS system on my 2007 335i. I have ignored it in favor of just checking the tire pressure myself. The warning light drives me nuts so I’m gonna give this a shot.
2010 328i e90 - Had 2 instance of the dashboard going crazy 6 months apart (so not footwell module, which would be constant). Followed this time by tpms inactive alert. Code for K-Can comms from various modules. In my case that blue corrosion was around the 4 main pin contacts on the board - even had a bb sized piece rattling around. Especially bad on one of the contacts on each side of the board. I was able to just clean most of it off with pick and brush and elec contact cleaner - good enough I hope because I didn't want to damage anything. I'm really wondering could have generated this stuff? bad materials? I noticed an orange rubber cylinder thing in the housing - I wonder if that is for pressure/moisture egress? and could be how moisture or contaminants get in? Also, Xacto wouldn't work for me - had to go dremel! Cut into that rim a few millimeters and could get a blade in there to twist and crack it open.
Super video, very helpful. I've located the receiver module, under the boot/truck floor in my 2014 X1. So far I have failed to release it from the case/socket. Have you any words of wisdom on this issue, Many thanks,
My 2010 135i won't allow me to reset the pressure any more . When I was able to do so, the asb and other 2 lights on dashboard will disappear. Now this lights are permanent as I am unable to reset the tpms. Will this like the unit you are talking about is gone ? Thanks.
Ok.. good news!! I purchased a used RDC module off eBay, installed it, replaced blown fuse and cleared the fault codes with Carly.. works perfectly without any programming... 4 green wheels on the iDrive screen. So I wonder what the consensus is of plug and play with these modules is? Anyways works for me at a $50 cost 👍👍
Thanks for confirming no coding was required. Maybe that will help someone the in future. I presume you cleared fault codes with idrive and not with NCS expert nor Inpa.
YuDaMan I cleared codes with the Carly BMW app and dongle for iPhone.. I’m actually surprised everything worked.. all wheel sensors are visible as well. This definitely solves a mystery for others for sure. Not sure how things would be with a brand new module. The module I purchased was from a low mileage 2015 F30 and o have a 2011 LCI E90, so these modules are the same for these cars.
One note: I have heard that if you source one used that the software version (upper right hand side), and/or the date code (lower right hand side) must be the same. This is to avoid having to recode the module. Some years may have the date code, while others may have both the software version and the date code printed.
Thanks for this video. Over the last week with all the rain we’ve been getting here in NJ this TPMS malfunction has happened randomly and cleared up on its own. I have the same lower cost system you have in my 2011 328xi. I’ll be pulling the module and investigating. This will be the second RDC module issue that I’ve had.. first time caused all kinds of CAN bus errors such as AC system and gauge cluster reboots while driving.. that module was replaced under warranty.. this time I’m in my own. .. I wonder if it would be a good idea to put a small silica jell pack inside the casing to absorb the moisture?
This is great info, replaced all 4 sensors, nothing, fuse ok, I guess I need to check that part. My question is how do I know where it is as I hear some saying in the trunk an you showed under car. Anybody knows? This is for a 2011 328xi sedan Thanks and great video
TPMS - another piece of useless technology we do not need, like blind spot monitoring, utter rubbish. In the good old days, drivers knew how to check their tyres and adjust their mirrors. The world has gone utterly nuts!
Just like extra cylinders, seat belts, windshields... All these useless additions to a vehicle. You might as well go down to the 1 cylinder piece of crap they first came out with and stick with that. At 70 mph, I was glad to find out my tire had a medium size hole in it before complete pressure loss. When the controller dies I'll replace it from a junk yard or eBay. Not a big deal. If you don't want to replace yours then don't. No one is making you.
Hi there, I bought a used part and is doing the same thing, so tomorrow I will open one to see how it looks like, probably the used part is as bad as the original, if that is the case, I will try to fix it or will get a new one once I know for sure that it's the problem. The dealer charges $ 150 dollars to scan the car, then the part installed goes around $ 1,200. The new part is only $ 100. I can install it in 10 minutes.
Just took mine apart ,it was exactly like yours ,didn't put it back yet ,waiting it to dry ,I'm confident it was the problem.I have a question ,if one of the sensors on the wheels was bad ,it would show that wheel in yellow and the other 3 in green right ?
It has been a log time since I had a low tire pressure warning but if I recall correctly, yes, the low tire does show up on idrive as yellow. I presume a faulty sensor would also show up yellow but that is only a presumption. Thanks for subscribing.
based on this video th-cam.com/video/QDHCbCUgTBw/w-d-xo.html at around 3:00, it is located either behind front right wheel or in front of rear left wheel ... I can't really tell from the diagram and I'm not at all familiar with that model.
look at message #36 here: www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?s=ba3ed64fd5bfa26510499eb0cb9ef65e&t=1204495&page=2 it might help you although it doesn't say which rear wheel
Hi, several days ago it came the same malfunction to my vehicle. Imposible to launch tire presure controll. Before that i was received many times during brake to stop my vehicle information that there is a problem with tire presure and i should to move to BMW service. Well, this service will cost like another new vehicle, therefore i try to do this repair like you show here. Thank you very much. Greetings from Germany. Ps. there is a nano protec spray solution for every electrical conection and components.
Great video. Just too late for me. Paid $972.58 at a dealer for this $44.00 (incl. ship & tax, new OEM BMW part) and programming. Part was off a 2018, so not even 5 years old. Southern California car. Dry, no snow.
Update. My TPMS definitively took a crap today causing my I-Drive controller to not work as well as some strange CAN communication errors. So I found the RDC module which looks exactly like the one in your video. By the way for a 2011 E90.. it is located in the wheel liner behind the right rear wheel. So I pulled the module and noticed that it had a bulge in the casing near the connector end. I opened it up and found that it wasn’t water damaged, but stunk to high heaven of burnt capacitor smell, a few components on the board are fried. I also found out the this blew the TPMS fuse 27 as well. So if I buy a new one of these will it be plug and play with the exception of the wheel sensors will need to be re married to the module??
Hopefully an expert will opine. I have been trying to determine if installing a NEW RDC requires coding or not. The info I've found thus far is contradictory so perhaps you will become the expert and post your conclusion here. Good luck.
YuDaMan I hope this will be plug and play.. I just purchased a used module from a 2016 car that is the same part as the one I have. $50 .. 30 day guarantee.. hope it works. I’m trying to get NCS expert and BMW tools running and getting myself familiar with it.
Shane Sexton Hey, how did the replacement with the used part go?? I’m finally taking care of my TPMS issue and I’m trying to decide if I’d be better off with a used one. Thank you!
My gf's 2011 328xi rdc module died. Dealer quoted her $1100 to replace. I bought one used on ebay for 84 bucks. Total time to remove old module, connect new module, and code it was around 3 minutes. I did it in the dark and I don't work on cars
@@YuDaMan The instructions to download the program is in this link www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1204192. The program is called ncs expert. It's a bit of a pain to download the program but the coding is very very easy. Besides the rdc module the only thing you will need is a kdcan cable. I bought one from bimmergeeks its guaranteed to work unlike amazon or ebay ones
@@jmsrt4 thank you, my module fails when the weather is cold, whenever is warm it goes good. Has been doing this since 2018, it works months and a week or two gives me troubles. I replaced the transponder but need to code it, tomorrow I will try with a friend that is a BMW mechanic, if not, either I do what you mention or buy a coding device.
@@YuDaMan thank you and Merry Christmas! After I got over my laziness I went out and laid under my vehicle. I have the same controller you do. So answered my own question. Happy to share here in case it helps anyone else. Also, an extra comment doesn't hurt for the user engagement statistic. Lol. Thank you, again for your very helpful video. I always love it when people take the time to share valuable information beyond the bare minimum. Getting to see the electronics and the exact corrosion causing that problems is immensely helpful!
Actually there is nothing to code in this particular module, so you can replace it without coding. The only thing that the VIN number will be different, but it's not a problem. Anyway, such used modules in Russia cost around $80, so 300-600 sounds ridiculous.
YuDaMan well, for the newer module (6868194) there are several params, which should be changed during coding. They are related to the market (US/EU), but I don't think that there is much difference too if it wouldn't be coded correctly
@@MrFlashdaemon Yes in my case I had replaced a faulty module with a new one. The electrical faults went away but TPM malfunction wouldn't go away until it was coded.
I get really confused with this, I have a 12/2010 e70 and want to upgrade my wheels. I’ve been told I don’t have TPMS valves in my year car and it’s a straight swap of wheels. Any help would be appreciated
look at your iDrive screen and if you have TPMS, you should see a similar picture of car with 4 wheels. If the air stems on your wheels are rubber looking, you PROBABLY don't have TPMS. The TMPS sensors normally have a very rigid stem which is mounted to the electronics INSIDE each wheel. Just google for TPMS images. Adding TMPS sensors to your new wheels WILL NOT be enough to have full monitoring and dash display.
@@RuNRiOt100 I guess rubber stems are possible but all the ones I've seen are similar to the ones in these videos: th-cam.com/video/Maunq29ow2U/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/O9wSj0rjCdE/w-d-xo.html
go to bmwfans.info and you will be able to identify every part including the module in the X3. Be sure to LIKE and subscribe if my video help you. That would really help me. THANKS!!!
I would use a meter and make sure there is continuity from the external pins to the inside circuit. It doesn't take much of a broken trace on the circuit board to create an issue. If you buy a new one I'd love the opportunity to learn more about these devices so before you toss it into the trash, let me know. I'd probably pay you $10 to ship it to me.
The challenge will be the following. If you buy a used one on ebay(maybe with money back guarantee?) or a salvage yard, will the vehicle need to have programming/coding performed. I could not find a conclusive answer on the internet so please let us know your results.
List price from dealer just for the module is $341 plus 1/2 hr labor if they will bill in increments of an hour. May or may not require coding and more time. Or you might be able to replace it yourself if software version and/or date code match. Easy to do if you get the right part. If you send me pic of your label, I might be willing to pay you $10 for your failed un-opened module.
I don't recall but I probably started with alcohol and a cotton swab and if that didn't work, then probably a solvent like flux remover or electrical contact cleaner. I probably scraped a lot with my razor blade.
Can't hurt to start there if you have the proper tools and technique. You do not want to overheat anything. If you are not successful and buy a new part, let me know. I'd pay you $10 plus shipping just to experiment and see if any coding is required to use a new and different part.
I just used a video camera and took pictures of those document and diagrams. I did not create them. They came from BMW technical pages. Really, nothing fancy or complicated ...
If you decide to have your old one replaced, I will pay you $10 for your old defective unit and send you a prepaid shipping label, provided it is the same part number as the video. I'm still trying to learn more about this device to be able to help others and see what other failure modes exist. thanks.
there are batteries in each of the 4 wheel mounted transmitters. Any tire store can put their tool up to the valve stem and read the battery condition. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE.
if anyone still having this error issue and it wont go away it might just be as simple as all ur tyre pressure...had this error and I changed the rdc control box which his the module for the system, dat didn't work...after several attempts to fix it I took a drive to a a tire shop which they adjusted all four tire pressure and Bam!!!! reset the system drove off and dat was all....hope this helps someone else
tete morne overthetop sooo the rdc box is the one I need to replace?? Not the arena? They didn’t make it clear at the dealer they just told me I needed to replace the RDC module?
Nice informative video which made me go to the car a midnight to get the RDC and open it looking for corrosion, which I didn't find but I ended up removing solder from the 4 contacts of the connector to the board and one I lifted up with some of the green trace. I included pictures from Dropbox and you can zoom in to see the small writing or question marks. Wanted to know if I need to solder any wires to the adjacent green areas? Thanks in advance. Hope I didn't screw it up. My TPMS codes are 604E RDC system and 6059 Wheel electronics undefinedwww.dropbox.com/sh/qvg0xnz3x078ret/AABT6sDrvvH7fnXye7vBDb3Xa?dl=0
Firstly, think of the green trace as simply a protective coating for the copper trace. Can you access this link: www.dropbox.com/s/4swvm7rh0fwwu5a/Test%20points%20RDC.png?dl=0 If you can, take your meter and set to resistance scale ... you should have 0 resistance green circle to green circle (looks like there might be a break where black arrow is). I would think green circle to each purple circle should be open circuit or at least VERY high resistance.
Thanks so much for replying the greens show continuity but the purples show OL. If you look closely at the big contact(big solder blob) where the green dot is I see small traces going to the purple dot next to the + and the purple below the +, that whole area around the + is a continuous trace and it disconnected at the bottom where I marked the red contour I think I might have cut it with the x-acto knife trying to lift the contact after removing the solder.
I am really concerned of the traces that go to the right you can clearly see them in the pictures there are 5-6 and every other contact has similar connections that show continuity.
OK so I scrapped the green area around the plus+ in 3 places and it does show continuity to the green dotted contact from your pic. Just wondering if the little green lifted trace connected(at the bottom by the red line) to anything important
Go to BMWFans.info There is a wealth of info there and you can see what models a particular part number might be used on. If this help you, be sure to LIKE and subscribe. That will really help me! THANKS!!!!
I contacted BMW to see about replacing the RDC - part was $470.84 and then they had to program it for another $240! Crazy... So I followed this video, removed the RDC, cut it open... and to my surprise, mine looked clean as a whistle! Nonetheless, I took a QTip and some Isopropyl and washed over all the electronic circuits, put it back together, used some Christy's 10Mil Pipe Wrap Tape to hold it together (since I figured the fix wasn't going to work anyway, because I didn't see any corrosion. Put the unit back in and a week later not a single problem yet! WHAT? Was it the cleaning I did that worked? Was the RDC plug just not snug and by removing and putting it back it, it fixed itself? Who cares... It works and I've saved over $700! Thanks for this video.
Thank you for the video! Our system is saying the same problem. We have brand new tires and brand new sensors and your video has encouraged us to try this out tomorrow. Wish us luck.
Excellent tutorial! I was an electronic technician for years repairing radios and televisions and have a great deal of appreciation for your technique. Five stars! 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Wow 😳. Thank you sir for the very very detailed and perfectly explained video. I’ve been having the “TPM Malfunction” issue for months now. Never really thought it could be the little module responsible for this headache. My shop told me my sensors are fine. I have no loss in pressure so this is definitely my issue. I have a 2012 X5. Thanks again.
Good luck. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. It would help me a lot! THANKS!
$1000 for new part and code from the dealer this vid is one the best I've seen and if you have prorool and have purchased the two license s you will then be able to code that yourself as well as all the other modules the car has even if you end up grabbing a donner moduel from a different car
Very useful. Good explanation of the troubleshooting and problem-solving steps. We need more content like this for the DIY'ers. Thank you, I'm having the same issue with my '11 550.
I had the same issue. I'm not sure if cleaning the inside circuit board corrosion repaired my module, but it didn't hurt. I coated the cleaned locations on the circuit board with clear auto paint ( let dry overnight). Then used epoxy to reseal the cover back over the circuit board. I noticed one of my module's pin had white corrosion (likely salts). Cleaned that up and coated all four pins with conductive grease (not dielectric grease). Put some dielectric grease on the female connector (white portion) to stop future water intrusion. Connected it back on the car and the TPMS is functioning again. My guess is the pin corrosion cause the module to act like it failed. Restoring the conductivity of the pins brought it back to life.
Preventive maintenance tip. Pop your RDC module out, coat the pins with conductive grease and coat the female connector with dielectric grease.
2012 BMW X3 F25 28i - TPM malfunction
5 amp fuse in the rear passenger panel was OK # (fuse #139 I think). RDC antenna module near right rear tire seemed OK - meaning installing new modules didn't clear the error condition. Using my Autel MaxiTPMS TS508WF to scan all four wheel sensors, I discovered that a single faulty wheel sensor was the cause of the "Tire Pressure Monitor malfunction" error on the iDrive screen. $75 to replace the sensor cleared the error condition.
2011 535i - my TPMS malfunction has been on forever. Initially, went to discount tire, and they confirmed all of my sensors are working fine. I've just learnt to deal with it. Didn't know about the RDC component. Will take a look into the RDC. Thank you
BE sure to LIKE and subscribe. THAT will really help me1 THANKS!!!!
2011 528i having the same issue … The light comes on and it does it’s reset says it’s malfunctioning and does it all over again… So I’m definitely going to try this out! Thanks for the video!! I’ll let you know how it works out!!
Helpful. Thanks.
I wonder how the RDC control unit can tell which transmitter is on which wheel. By the signal strength due to the subtle distance to each?
I pulled my unit and opened it up, it looked absolutely pristine. I went ahead and cleaned it and sealed it, reinstalled and the error is still there. The batteries are all good in the tires. So either a bad RDC unit entirely or bad wiring to the RDC? Should I be chasing down things like wheel bearings, brake dust, etc?
Thanks for the repair video. Haven't pulled my yet but same symptoms so hopefully repairable. Units now can be found for about $85.
it you buy a used part, let me know if it "plugs and plays" for you without coding/programming. Thanks.
@@YuDaMan haven't taken parts of to find it yet but finding it seems the hardest part.
Thanks for the video! I have had a similar issue with my TPMS system on my 2007 335i. I have ignored it in favor of just checking the tire pressure myself. The warning light drives me nuts so I’m gonna give this a shot.
2010 328i e90 - Had 2 instance of the dashboard going crazy 6 months apart (so not footwell module, which would be constant). Followed this time by tpms inactive alert. Code for K-Can comms from various modules. In my case that blue corrosion was around the 4 main pin contacts on the board - even had a bb sized piece rattling around. Especially bad on one of the contacts on each side of the board. I was able to just clean most of it off with pick and brush and elec contact cleaner - good enough I hope because I didn't want to damage anything. I'm really wondering could have generated this stuff? bad materials? I noticed an orange rubber cylinder thing in the housing - I wonder if that is for pressure/moisture egress? and could be how moisture or contaminants get in?
Also, Xacto wouldn't work for me - had to go dremel! Cut into that rim a few millimeters and could get a blade in there to twist and crack it open.
Super video, very helpful.
I've located the receiver module, under the boot/truck floor in my 2014 X1.
So far I have failed to release it from the case/socket. Have you any words of wisdom on this issue,
Many thanks,
if it is not exposed to the elements, it might be ok. On the X5 it's OUTSIDE the vehicle and mounted in a plastic clip that it snaps into.
There is a vent Orange Plug that has a hole in it that let’s in moisture that causes these problems. Plug the hole with silicone or RTV
Thank You. great video and it gave me food for thought.
Thank you very much for the video! Take care!
Glad it helped. Be sure to LIKE and subscribe. THAT will really help me! THANKS!!!
My 2010 135i won't allow me to reset the pressure any more . When I was able to do so, the asb and other 2 lights on dashboard will disappear. Now this lights are permanent as I am unable to reset the tpms. Will this like the unit you are talking about is gone ? Thanks.
Ok.. good news!! I purchased a used RDC module off eBay, installed it, replaced blown fuse and cleared the fault codes with Carly.. works perfectly without any programming... 4 green wheels on the iDrive screen. So I wonder what the consensus is of plug and play with these modules is? Anyways works for me at a $50 cost 👍👍
Thanks for confirming no coding was required. Maybe that will help someone the in future. I presume you cleared fault codes with idrive and not with NCS expert nor Inpa.
YuDaMan I cleared codes with the Carly BMW app and dongle for iPhone.. I’m actually surprised everything worked.. all wheel sensors are visible as well. This definitely solves a mystery for others for sure. Not sure how things would be with a brand new module. The module I purchased was from a low mileage 2015 F30 and o have a 2011 LCI E90, so these modules are the same for these cars.
Where is that fuse located ?
Which fuse and where is it?
do u need to remove the driver's rear wheel to access? btw mine is x5 35d
One note: I have heard that if you source one used that the software version (upper right hand side), and/or the date code (lower right hand side) must be the same. This is to avoid having to recode the module. Some years may have the date code, while others may have both the software version and the date code printed.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great input!
Thank you for the video it helped me Immensely. Exactly the problem!!
I'm glad you found my video to be helpful. Be sure to LIKE and Subscribe. THAT will really help ME! Thanks.
Thanks for this video. Over the last week with all the rain we’ve been getting here in NJ this TPMS malfunction has happened randomly and cleared up on its own. I have the same lower cost system you have in my 2011 328xi. I’ll be pulling the module and investigating. This will be the second RDC module issue that I’ve had.. first time caused all kinds of CAN bus errors such as AC system and gauge cluster reboots while driving.. that module was replaced under warranty.. this time I’m in my own.
.. I wonder if it would be a good idea to put a small silica jell pack inside the casing to absorb the moisture?
This is great info, replaced all 4 sensors, nothing, fuse ok, I guess I need to check that part. My question is how do I know where it is as I hear some saying in the trunk an you showed under car. Anybody knows? This is for a 2011 328xi sedan
Thanks and great video
Amazing vid, very well explained
Excellent video . Super helpful. thanks!
2012 BMW 328i msport coupe antenna location inside passenger side rear wheel well.
TPMS - another piece of useless technology we do not need, like blind spot monitoring, utter rubbish. In the good old days, drivers knew how to check their tyres and adjust their mirrors. The world has gone utterly nuts!
Nannies like these are for people that lack the capacity to operate a motor vehicle properly.
🤣🤣
Just like extra cylinders, seat belts, windshields... All these useless additions to a vehicle. You might as well go down to the 1 cylinder piece of crap they first came out with and stick with that.
At 70 mph, I was glad to find out my tire had a medium size hole in it before complete pressure loss. When the controller dies I'll replace it from a junk yard or eBay. Not a big deal. If you don't want to replace yours then don't. No one is making you.
The blindspot thing is incredibly useful. In big cars it can be difficult to see and it definitely helps.
Hi there, I bought a used part and is doing the same thing, so tomorrow I will open one to see how it looks like, probably the used part is as bad as the original, if that is the case, I will try to fix it or will get a new one once I know for sure that it's the problem. The dealer charges $ 150 dollars to scan the car, then the part installed goes around $ 1,200. The new part is only $ 100. I can install it in 10 minutes.
Just took mine apart ,it was exactly like yours ,didn't put it back yet ,waiting it to dry ,I'm confident it was the problem.I have a question ,if one of the sensors on the wheels was bad ,it would show that wheel in yellow and the other 3 in green right ?
It has been a log time since I had a low tire pressure warning but if I recall correctly, yes, the low tire does show up on idrive as yellow. I presume a faulty sensor would also show up yellow but that is only a presumption. Thanks for subscribing.
How you clean it up with
Excellent video -Having the same issue with my 2011 535XI
Hey I have a 2011 535xi, how did you fix it? How much did it cost?
Where is the RDC Control UNIT on 2013 328I convertible? any info somebody can share
I'm not familiar with your vehicle but I'm sure if you spend just a few minutes googling it, you can find out where it is located.
based on this video th-cam.com/video/QDHCbCUgTBw/w-d-xo.html at around 3:00, it is located either behind front right wheel or in front of rear left wheel ... I can't really tell from the diagram and I'm not at all familiar with that model.
look at message #36 here: www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?s=ba3ed64fd5bfa26510499eb0cb9ef65e&t=1204495&page=2 it might help you although it doesn't say which rear wheel
Hi, several days ago it came the same malfunction to my vehicle. Imposible to launch tire presure controll. Before that i was received many times during brake to stop my vehicle information that there is a problem with tire presure and i should to move to BMW service. Well, this service will cost like another new vehicle, therefore i try to do this repair like you show here. Thank you very much. Greetings from Germany. Ps. there is a nano protec spray solution for every electrical conection and components.
Very useful info, just not sure I can do this myself😕
My 335is seems to have that same deal, I wonder if I have that same unit in my car? What do you say? great info either way.
use bmwfans.info and see if the part number for your vehicle is the same as mine. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a subscription. THANKS!
Thank you for the video. Great information!
Fantastic! Dealer quote was $900
glad you liked my video. I hope you subscribe to my channel. THANKS!
Crazy charged me 500$ for 2 sensors...smh will the sensor failure cause the dash and odometer to not work?
@@s.linastaffords6744 did your dash dim and flash? Because my 13 x1 was doing that with a warning electrical malfunction.
Excellent video. Thank you
Great video. Just too late for me. Paid $972.58 at a dealer for this $44.00 (incl. ship & tax, new OEM BMW part) and programming. Part was off a 2018, so not even 5 years old. Southern California car. Dry, no snow.
Update. My TPMS definitively took a crap today causing my I-Drive controller to not work as well as some strange CAN communication errors. So I found the RDC module which looks exactly like the one in your video. By the way for a 2011 E90.. it is located in the wheel liner behind the right rear wheel.
So I pulled the module and noticed that it had a bulge in the casing near the connector end. I opened it up and found that it wasn’t water damaged, but stunk to high heaven of burnt capacitor smell, a few components on the board are fried. I also found out the this blew the TPMS fuse 27 as well. So if I buy a new one of these will it be plug and play with the exception of the wheel sensors will need to be re married to the module??
Hopefully an expert will opine. I have been trying to determine if installing a NEW RDC requires coding or not. The info I've found thus far is contradictory so perhaps you will become the expert and post your conclusion here. Good luck.
YuDaMan I hope this will be plug and play.. I just purchased a used module from a 2016 car that is the same part as the one I have. $50 .. 30 day guarantee.. hope it works. I’m trying to get NCS expert and BMW tools running and getting myself familiar with it.
Shane Sexton Hey, how did the replacement with the used part go?? I’m finally taking care of my TPMS issue and I’m trying to decide if I’d be better off with a used one. Thank you!
It will require coding.
Did it work after the surgery?
yep!
Awesome video, thank you.
My gf's 2011 328xi rdc module died. Dealer quoted her $1100 to replace. I bought one used on ebay for 84 bucks. Total time to remove old module, connect new module, and code it was around 3 minutes. I did it in the dark and I don't work on cars
What did you use to code it? Disappointed to hear coding was needed. I've been trying to figure out if it will "plug and play" or if coding is needed.
@@YuDaMan The instructions to download the program is in this link www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1204192. The program is called ncs expert. It's a bit of a pain to download the program but the coding is very very easy. Besides the rdc module the only thing you will need is a kdcan cable. I bought one from bimmergeeks its guaranteed to work unlike amazon or ebay ones
Just used my laptop btw
@@jmsrt4 thank you, my module fails when the weather is cold, whenever is warm it goes good. Has been doing this since 2018, it works months and a week or two gives me troubles. I replaced the transponder but need to code it, tomorrow I will try with a friend that is a BMW mechanic, if not, either I do what you mention or buy a coding device.
Got a bmw 120 2014. Tmps failure comes on in warm weather. Why may that be
Because with the temperature change also the air pressure in each tire changes. Sometimes the system fails early in the morning when it's colder.
Do you have access to the TPMS generation info for a 2011 MINI Cooper S Countryman (R60)?
sorry. I do not.
@@YuDaMan thank you and Merry Christmas!
After I got over my laziness I went out and laid under my vehicle. I have the same controller you do. So answered my own question. Happy to share here in case it helps anyone else.
Also, an extra comment doesn't hurt for the user engagement statistic. Lol.
Thank you, again for your very helpful video. I always love it when people take the time to share valuable information beyond the bare minimum. Getting to see the electronics and the exact corrosion causing that problems is immensely helpful!
Actually there is nothing to code in this particular module, so you can replace it without coding. The only thing that the VIN number will be different, but it's not a problem.
Anyway, such used modules in Russia cost around $80, so 300-600 sounds ridiculous.
Thank you for confirming coding is not required.
YuDaMan well, for the newer module (6868194) there are several params, which should be changed during coding. They are related to the market (US/EU), but I don't think that there is much difference too if it wouldn't be coded correctly
Without coding, "TPM malfunction" is present in CIC.
@@nathanielpike what exactly you've done? Just replaced a faulty module with the new one?
@@MrFlashdaemon Yes in my case I had replaced a faulty module with a new one. The electrical faults went away but TPM malfunction wouldn't go away until it was coded.
&Hank you for the video but it would be a great help if you mention the fault codes you got.
No code reader and no codes read....just the words "TPM malfunction!" on the display.
How can I survive without a TPM?!!
So much useless info on the dash but no battery life indicator?!!
I get really confused with this, I have a 12/2010 e70 and want to upgrade my wheels. I’ve been told I don’t have TPMS valves in my year car and it’s a straight swap of wheels. Any help would be appreciated
look at your iDrive screen and if you have TPMS, you should see a similar picture of car with 4 wheels. If the air stems on your wheels are rubber looking, you PROBABLY don't have TPMS. The TMPS sensors normally have a very rigid stem which is mounted to the electronics INSIDE each wheel. Just google for TPMS images. Adding TMPS sensors to your new wheels WILL NOT be enough to have full monitoring and dash display.
Just had a look and on the idrive I have a car all 4 wheels are green and says active and my wheels have rubber stems
@@RuNRiOt100 I guess rubber stems are possible but all the ones I've seen are similar to the ones in these videos: th-cam.com/video/Maunq29ow2U/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/O9wSj0rjCdE/w-d-xo.html
Any idea what module is for the 2014 x3?
go to bmwfans.info and you will be able to identify every part including the module in the X3. Be sure to LIKE and subscribe if my video help you. That would really help me. THANKS!!!
Muss man es nach dem einbauen codieren ?
Has anyone been able to find a wiring schematic for this part?
Mine had no corrosion what's so over. Anything else it could be American tires says batteries test good.
I would use a meter and make sure there is continuity from the external pins to the inside circuit. It doesn't take much of a broken trace on the circuit board to create an issue. If you buy a new one I'd love the opportunity to learn more about these devices so before you toss it into the trash, let me know. I'd probably pay you $10 to ship it to me.
The challenge will be the following. If you buy a used one on ebay(maybe with money back guarantee?) or a salvage yard, will the vehicle need to have programming/coding performed. I could not find a conclusive answer on the internet so please let us know your results.
@@YuDaMan I will try that soon. Needed to hit the road.
@@YuDaMan if you can repair these you may have a side business like the bmwgm5.com module repair man soldering in relays for $100 each.
I've only repaired on and maybe I just got lucky. That's why I wanted to perhaps try a second one if you decide to throw yours away. Thanks
How much do you think it’ll cost to get fixed
List price from dealer just for the module is $341 plus 1/2 hr labor if they will bill in increments of an hour. May or may not require coding and more time. Or you might be able to replace it yourself if software version and/or date code match. Easy to do if you get the right part. If you send me pic of your label, I might be willing to pay you $10 for your failed un-opened module.
What did you use to clean up the areas with corrosion???
I don't recall but I probably started with alcohol and a cotton swab and if that didn't work, then probably a solvent like flux remover or electrical contact cleaner. I probably scraped a lot with my razor blade.
YuDaMan thank you! Mine is actually on the part you described was common. Do you think I will need to sauter That spot?
Can't hurt to start there if you have the proper tools and technique. You do not want to overheat anything. If you are not successful and buy a new part, let me know. I'd pay you $10 plus shipping just to experiment and see if any coding is required to use a new and different part.
Thank you! You very help me!
Be sure to LIKE and subscribe. THAT will really help me. THANKS!!!
Now I just need to locate the damn RDC in my car
check out Brandon's comment for the location in his 2012 sedan. Have you looked at realoem.com ? there's lots of good info there and good drawings
What program do you use for those diagrams and info ?
I just used a video camera and took pictures of those document and diagrams. I did not create them. They came from BMW technical pages. Really, nothing fancy or complicated ...
2017 530i having the same problem
If you decide to have your old one replaced, I will pay you $10 for your old defective unit and send you a prepaid shipping label, provided it is the same part number as the video. I'm still trying to learn more about this device to be able to help others and see what other failure modes exist. thanks.
Thanks alot..
I have a 2012 335i and the same thing happens will go on and off every 15 minutes sometimes it comes on for a few seconds. Sometimes a few minutes.
Took out the rdc but it looked good no corruptions or
anything... what could it be then?? This tmps is so fucking annoying 😩
there are batteries in each of the 4 wheel mounted transmitters. Any tire store can put their tool up to the valve stem and read the battery condition. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE.
YuDaMan took it to the dealer and they told me the 4 sensors in each tires work well but the rdc is the one that needs to be replaced..?
@@miguelpina6890 Did youend up replacing the rdc?
if anyone still having this error issue and it wont go away it might just be as simple as all ur tyre pressure...had this error and I changed the rdc control box which his the module for the system, dat didn't work...after several attempts to fix it I took a drive to a a tire shop which they adjusted all four tire pressure and Bam!!!! reset the system drove off and dat was all....hope this helps someone else
Where is that located bro?
@@miguelpina6890 the rdc box is in the trunk just slightly under the latch area
tete morne overthetop sooo the rdc box is the one I need to replace?? Not the arena? They didn’t make it clear at the dealer they just told me I needed to replace the RDC module?
tete morne overthetop this TMPS message is so annoying
@@miguelpina6890 have u tried adjusting ur air pressure in all 4 wheels yet first thou?
Nice informative video which made me go to the car a midnight to get the RDC and open it looking for corrosion, which I didn't find but I ended up removing solder from the 4 contacts of the connector to the board and one I lifted up with some of the green trace. I included pictures from Dropbox and you can zoom in to see the small writing or question marks. Wanted to know if I need to solder any wires to the adjacent green areas? Thanks in advance. Hope I didn't screw it up. My TPMS codes are 604E RDC system and 6059 Wheel electronics undefinedwww.dropbox.com/sh/qvg0xnz3x078ret/AABT6sDrvvH7fnXye7vBDb3Xa?dl=0
Firstly, think of the green trace as simply a protective coating for the copper trace. Can you access this link: www.dropbox.com/s/4swvm7rh0fwwu5a/Test%20points%20RDC.png?dl=0
If you can, take your meter and set to resistance scale ... you should have 0 resistance green circle to green circle (looks like there might be a break where black arrow is). I would think green circle to each purple circle should be open circuit or at least VERY high resistance.
Thanks so much for replying the greens show continuity but the purples show OL. If you look closely at the big contact(big solder blob) where the green dot is I see small traces going to the purple dot next to the + and the purple below the +, that whole area around the + is a continuous trace and it disconnected at the bottom where I marked the red contour I think I might have cut it with the x-acto knife trying to lift the contact after removing the solder.
don't do anything ... OL mean open circuit, high resistance. I would plug it in and see if your faults are gone. Copper trace doesn't cut that easily.
I am really concerned of the traces that go to the right you can clearly see them in the pictures there are 5-6 and every other contact has similar connections that show continuity.
OK so I scrapped the green area around the plus+ in 3 places and it does show continuity to the green dotted contact from your pic. Just wondering if the little green lifted trace connected(at the bottom by the red line) to anything important
JUST REPLACE IT....................................
painful listening to you whine on at the rate of 3 words a minute. bore off man
Does anyone know what is differences between this two parts: 36236771042 and 36236781846 (RDC triggers)
Go to BMWFans.info
There is a wealth of info there and you can see what models a particular part number might be used on. If this help you, be sure to LIKE and subscribe. That will really help me! THANKS!!!!
Thanks for the video !
Be sure to LIKE and subscribe. That would really help me. THANKS!!!!