I think you "missed" those joints intentionally so that you could give a more-detailed overview of the system and other possible faults. It's more fun this way. Thanks.
Err, no, that's not how I do things. I record my videos in a linear fashion as things happen, no plan, and voltage measurement was the first thing i wanted to do. I initially thought (hoped) it was a component fault I could track down. So the joints only became the next suspect when the voltage measurements pointed to internal IC voltage bias problems, and then the penny dropped it could be that. You can't see these cracks with the naked eye, so I had to use my macro lens or my Mantis to see them, not something I'd ordinarily do first.
As I said, first thing I do is comment on the design when opened, next step look for basic visuals (requires microscope to see the cracks), next measure voltages. In this case the voltages pointed to the chip, so visual inspect closer and bingo. Standard procedure. Take out my camera stuff and commentary, and this was 5 minutes of actual work until fault spotted. To find it quicker would require specific product failure knowledge.
@Lassi Kinnunen would most likely have been borderline late 80's early 90's, after that decent (if any) service manuals started to disappear. Also as a side note, that solder looks like some of the early attempts at lead free crap. I have seen almost entire boards of that era with dry joints, quite often coupled with oversized holes for the component legs.
the black cover in the battery compartment was probably for a different model that had a built in clock, they usually had a spot for 2 AA batteries in there behind the d cells. they probably reused the rear casing.
I don't think it was for anything like that. Instead I think it was for plastic molding. They needed a way to create an opening in the molded parts so sound could get into that port that goes to the front. To do that the mold tool had to come up from the battery compartment side into the center of the radio. They used a "label" to seal things back up when they were done.
@@remyrattner6399 True, but boombox type stereos and those "1000W PMPO" speakers were trash and still are trash. Even their car "xplod" line is mostly trash. They have good integrated amps and some older car amps, have old XM-4020 and it does more than it's rated for and it sounds great.
I wish providing service manuals and making stuff repairable was still a trend. It's awesome to see that there even is a service manual and all that info it has, and for the product to be easy to work with.
I have a Sony STR-D1090 that was riddled with dry solder joints. including one of the main outputs on the transformer with no solder at all. it was a wonder it even worked from the start.,
I remember a Sony where the bad joint completely collapsed on reflow. The joint was just a giant solder bubble. My Sony receiver (STR-D990) quickly developed a faint squeal. It also turned out to be a bad connection in the preamp stage. Sad part on that is that the squeal came back. It wasn't hard to find where the tech had worked on it, and I reflowed the joint again and found that the pad had lifted. Ran a wire to replace it, and it quieted down again.
Good to see one of those old "stereos" around and operating. Sony stuff back in the day (1990's) was some of the best lower-priced stuff around. They had some really good acoustics on some of the older "bookshelf" systems. At one point, I did own an old ZS-D1 CD/radio. AFAIK, it wasn't a widely-sold model, or particularly well-known on the market. My mistake, as it was one of the shittiest models they made. Big, heavy-ish, chunky body and piss-poor speakers & acoustics. Bargain-basement Radio Shack garbage speakers glued onto the back of ugly, oversized grilles. The CD player crapped out and stopped reading/ ejecting properly in about 18 months.
1:17 - I'm guessing the filter cap 'formed' during the interval between when you powered it on (probably after many years) and when you started adjusting the volume! Anyway, that cap sounds (literally!) like a candidate for replacement. No need to swear, Dave! (1:35), you have video and audio evidence!
You can clearly see it was the end of boombox era, especially when taking a look at the CD-mechanism and ..... the tape deck.... (i quess with plastic flywheels (without any iron weight) and permanent magnet as erase 'head'). The lower quality caps (see some TEC and Lelon branded ones), brittle caramel PCB's, molded heatsink, plastic everywhere, hotsnot, avoiding screws (in some clever way tho), clearly build to lower the costs. You don't want to be critical because it is a Sony? Is it made in Japan or already made in China? Anyway, does mom have cats or dogs?
Thanks for the video, Dave! My wife and I really enjoy your colloquial turns of phrase. "Bob's your Uncle" is hysterical. I found this video because I just happened across a "Winner, Winner Chicken Dinner" pretty complete CFD-565 that's going to need new tape transport belts. I wanted to get one "portable/boombox thing" for travel purposes, should that need arise (it probably won't, but restoring this stuff is my retirement hobby) and I owned a "Fish" brand box back in the '80s. The CFD-565 was fairly inexpensive considering how "overbuilt" it appears to be. It lacks Cassette Bias/EQ settings, tape counter, and the like, but it seems to be much better built than some of these eye-poppingly hyperinflated boxes. My question (I'm in the U.S.) is why don't Sony boomboxes get more respect than they do? I think their specs are held to a more conservative standard than some of the "45wpc" cash register/calculator manufacturer machines out there, so I just don't get it. But then I wasn't really part of the youth culture that fetished the park it on your shoulder and turn it up phenomenon. I sold a bunch of them to those folks in the '80s, though. What am I missing? $3K for a no-name knockoff? Help me out a little...best regards!
@@jam99 Sorry I thought you were being sarcastic at the use of what could be considered a vague term. My bad. Yes, you're right about placement of baffling material to aid in the nullifying of the inherent resonant tendencies of susceptible cabinet materials :-)
@@gerrabath Thank you. In this case (20yrs ago), do you think they just did it by trial and error or would they have had some kind of software modelling to work it out?
Touching up cold solder joints has never failed me. I did it to an old 1980s ghetto blaster boombox the Magnavox D8443 because the audio power output was very low and cutting out and I touched up the solder joints on the main capacitor and a few dozen other joints and the radio works much better. I am in the process of restoring this set as best I can.
I repaired consumer electronics right outta school like this, I gotta say it was quite enjoyable and generally speaking easy to troubleshoot and repair
Dave discovering the AC/DC switching made me chuckle. We had a lesser model as radios in a casino I used to work at. They took a LOT of falls from six feet up. What usually did them in was too many face-down smacks to the volume pot or mode switch. Nearly every antenna got broken, but we used paper-clip chains Scotch-taped to the wall. They actually put out a decent quality of sound in small rooms, the Bass Boost actually worked.
Sony stuff from that era is notorious for cold cracked solder joints. I bet ive repaired 100's of Sony home receivers and 100's of Sony car audio equipment with the same crappy solder joints.So now days thats the first suspect for me lol
So typical of wave-soldered boards with heavy through-hole components with larger pins. Power ICs, connectors, etc. Also it may be prudent to check the solder on the pots.
It's not just heat cycling that cause the crack joints. Remember, it's a boombox, so it might have accepted some kind of impact sometime it its life! (edit: The very deep screw holes is common on Sony products!)
That's Sony for you,, we fixed many Sony Tv's withe bad solder joints. Many times the sets would come in dead. Dave learned his lesson don't spend time looking for bad parts, first do a visual inspection.
@@simontay4851 I don't feel it needs balancing. I'm using 2 18650s savaged from the same device that tested with almost identical capacity and wired them parallel. My guess is I'll get a usable 2500 mAh from that pack Not a lot but you can play the radio for hours. The used a boost converter to give me the solid 9v it needed. The converter has a solid built in charger with over and under protection and was like 2$
Always hated these plastic piece of crap radios. No matter if it is sony or other brand, they all sound awful. Good for a repair video, otherwise I would just bin it.
Not just power devices. Connectors too. Had this on a 1997 Dodge Caravan Minivan a couple months ago I was working on for a friend. Went in to fix a speedometer issue... but then I was told "oh, the gauges completely die somtimes too". Pulled the instrument cluster, sure enough, all but three of the connector pin joints were cracked. "easy" fix since I had the cluster out anyway. Seems to be a common issue on GM and Chrysler stuff of the era (luckily, Ford used film PCBs that don't have such issues; I can't speak for non-USA makes).
Ooh, Dave....come...on this is *not* a classic boombox...but this is a sh!tty plastic late 90s toy. A real Boombox is a JVC M90, sharp G9x9x series, Lasonic...etc but not this....;) Oh, nevermind, you corrected yourself...:)
Yes, I have ripped into a job without reading the manual if there is one not available, Dave is very good at educating people about electronics so a little bit of professionalism would be appreciated.
I remember having one as a kid I swear it must have taken like 16 D cells (exaggerating but it felt like a lot at the time). Just keep inserting them in and it just never ends! Runs for about an hour. lol.
The "sticky bit" is so they could terminate the bass ports and have them open at the back. There was likely a protrusion on the rear mold die that butted up to the front die to form the gap at the back on the ports. Probably throwing a sticker there was the easiest way to block off the resulting cavity after molding the case.
Is amazing how this comment sounds like he knows exactly what it is. If I didn't read the other comment, I'd think this guy knew exactly what he was talking about.
@@xenonram That's because Im an engineer, and if you read the comment Dave is referring to, another poster said the same thing I did: its from the molding process. Have a look at the opening behind the sticker. Notice anything? Like the fact that it has the SAME shape and dimensions as the exterior outline of the bass ports? That's because the rear mold injection die likely had a protrusion in it to form the rear of the bass ports. Plastic injection molds have to be able to be pulled directly from the formed parts, so you need a pretty straight shot to get them off. At most there will be some draft to help with the extraction process. The only way you could practically form a blind feature like having the ports stop a few cm from the rear of the case is to have the rear half have a mating protrusion to form them. This obviously will leave a cavity in the molded part, which has to be filled in some how. Its the most likely explanation since "battery backup" doesn't make much sense. Theres no clock or anything to maintain, and the boom box is too large to be a clock radio/alarm. On top of that, there is not enough space or features to accommodate having a pair of AA's behind the sticker. Putting a black plastic strip is an easy way to hide it in a low buck consumer part.
@@xenonram Now, as for why they did it like that, there is a support for the circuit board on top of that rear portion of the bass port. This was probably a relatively simple way to get the support in the center without obstructing the bass port, since it looked like they at least made an effort to get it to perform ok acoustically. Making the port two sections in each half of the case may have also allowed them to get enough depth of the port without having to omit the supports or have some complex feature around the bass port to incorporate the PCB support, or have the port be excessively long since it would be harder to get it to mold properly and not have it get distorted dimensionally. Hard to say and we can only speculate what their line of thought really was, but it does look like some effort went into the bass response since they have foam bits everywhere to try and tune it. Its possible its for something else (or could have had an alternate use in the early design), but it doesn't appear that way from looking at it.
The radio tuning indicator should have been lined up before the radio was reassembled! Great video anyway, I used to get those from the scrap yard and fix them at home, sometimes I was very lucky and all that was needed was a jumper wire for a blown fuse or replacing a transformer because some of them have internal fuses. We have 2-phase power utility in most homes and people sometimes forgot to flip the voltage selector switch before turning on the radio.
I have Logitech x-230 2.1 PC speakers. When I moved, I noticed that the sub hums even when the speaks are turned off and the audio jack is disconnected. At night I have to unplug the power to the speakers to silence the hum. I also notice that if I plug a USB charger into the outlet and then have Bluetooth headphones charging on the USB while listening to them there will be a hum that stops when I unplug the USB. Any ideas? Is there a filter I can buy or make? I have two outlets in my room and they both hum and there isn't any motors or anything on that circuit. My house is old, the wiring is partly new (1980's) partly old (1940's).
Insert "Now THAT'S a screwdriver" Crocodile Dundee joke here...
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At minute 22:15: Very good to see the crack in the solder. This probably occurred more often on PCBs with a single side copper layer. Even if the component was not mechanically screwed to the PCB separately?
My parents have bought me one, same like this, I believe, in 1998 or 9 (I was 5 or 6 at the time), and two CDs of Bob Marley with it.... still have the player and the CDs and they all still work... The CD pickup is almost dead though, and the switch for AC/DC that's integrated into the socket has to be extra pressed with a piece of folded paper to work.... I've always wanted to fix it, but I've not yet bought a long enough screw driver to reach those deep back screws...
Funny, I have the same one, CFD-V15, here which someone had thrown out at work a few weeks ago and I hadn't gotten around to looking at until seeing your video. One speaker is completely FUBAR and the tone control knob is missing but other than that it seems OK. Thinking I might just harvest the AC transformer from it as I always seem to need them (hopefully it's a dual secondary winding).
Ah so the chip was heating up because somehow the power going to the speakers was being dissipated there? And the chip is still OK after being on like that? good luck syncing that frequency dial again.
Come on, I like the 15-minute B-S "safety and further damage" lecture before the presenter plugs in anything on the workbench. People like you, who just plug it in and see what happens are boring. (smile)
Hi there, new subscriber...This made me think of the Yamaha DSP A1 Amplifier that has the dreaded display pixel disappeaer. Almost all of these amps now have the display miss pixels, I have fixed over 10 of them so far, requires resoldering 32 pins on the top and bottom the display, the joints do excatly what happened here to this Sony Boombox. Great find and good repair job!
As a kid I remember excitedly pulling apart my Silver branded boombox which had 80W PMPO proudly emblazoned across the front only to find a couple of small paper coned full range drivers rated at 3w each. Put it back together and sulked for a while!
i can't stop thinking about dave doing sports listening to this boom box. Thankfully my thoughts have been recorded on tape: th-cam.com/video/ozoTzkCeO-A/w-d-xo.html
Jep, i can easily confirm that...i own several (real;) BoomBoxes and usually when there was intermitent sound issues the PowerAmp(s) have solderjoint fails. Also the belts of the cassette drive needs to be replaced almost every time.
Makes me remember that good old days i was 15 ( in 1995 ) repairing similar kind of boomboxes , TV´s and spicas for neighbours , with the money i bought an Atari 65 xl , programming since then ...
Dave, I did warranty service of Sony products during that time period. Sometimes with certain models of Sony or other brands out-of-the-box, there were cold solder joints mainly on those components that are heat-sinked. Like you said, a bad batch of solder or too short of time through the wave solder. Before I was laid off in 2001, there were a lot of solder errors in certain models of many brands that came out that year. The muxes were fine, it was the heat-sinked components. Remember, a lot of the circuit boards were made by a few contractors for these brands, so you can see the same boards in these Japanese brands. The first thing I did with these models is to open up and check the solder joints to these components.
This is a CLASSIC issue, power device mounted on a heat sink/expansion contraction. I have also seen this on an old high voltage TV transformer in a Pioneer large screen projection TV. Had to re-solder on several occasions but was the only failure ever on the TV itself! Great repair video.
These radio/cd/cassette players had all the type of failures.Cassette mechanism related,laser head probably KSS213,terminal microswithes oxidation,input selector contacts oxidation,volume potentiometer scratches and loose contact,headphone jack dry joins and oxidated contacts,power supply socket dry joins and oxidation contacts between dc and battery switch auto selector,external antenna and sometimes its holder replacement,speakers replacement.But it needed one or two hours for repairing depending the fault and many technicians prefered tv and video repairings as more easy with more money.
Haha I really think that those solder joints resisted more than constant daily cooldown jaja Maybe the aluminum structure did this because of weight, and physics. haha Like always your videos are pure gold. So much more interesting than watching series or movies. A hug!
Fake-tweeter: I've seen some models where the low-end exterior was simply the high-end exterior with a few holes not cut out. (instead of simply looking for the tweeter 'dip', I would check if the tweeter magnet/core was visible)
I remember seeing a similar model boom box as a kid here in the states. The only difference I remember was the “bass reflex body” label was different, and Sony used the phrase “MEGA BASS” in gold lettering in the same place. I guess Sony couldn’t use the phrase MEGA BASS in Australia?
...That might explain also the foam job in the speaker cavity, it's done to muffle bass sounds and avoid echo, but in the other speaker is not necessary because there's the power supply naturally reducing echo ;-D
sony gear from this era seemed especially susceptible to this issue. I've seen this issue with every sony component I own. TV's, tape decks, amps. They must have used the least amount of solder possible and it just fatigues away and cracks.
The asymmetrical foam is probably to dampen standing waves, symmetry inside the enclosure is not gonna matter much anyway as most stereo information is gonna come from the front of the drivers and the enclosure is meant to be just one bass reflex system. Symmetry in the enclosure would even increase some standing waves dependent on the internal walls facing each other etc. and possibly cause "fluting" in the port. *Hmm, they do have a wall in the molding _sort of_ separating both chambers so the piece of foam on the right might be to compensate for the difference in volume with the extra board on the left side... pretty sure the piece of foam in the port is for the "fluting" problem though. _(audio design dropout)_
Lower impedance drivers draw same amount of power then high impedance drivers, they use them so they can put cheaper part's in such as an entire amplifier on an i/c, not to save batteries. The other reason why they might have done it is lower impedance drivers have stronger force, resulting in better sound quality and output, though probably not doing any favors for this boombox lol!
That is hilarious. I am just an amateur, but had the same problem with a sony car radio. It lost sound on vibration and did this buzzing sound. I looked for the problem so long. It is really hard to catch those little cracks. Sony schematic are really great.
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I think you "missed" those joints intentionally so that you could give a more-detailed overview of the system and other possible faults. It's more fun this way. Thanks.
Err, no, that's not how I do things. I record my videos in a linear fashion as things happen, no plan, and voltage measurement was the first thing i wanted to do. I initially thought (hoped) it was a component fault I could track down. So the joints only became the next suspect when the voltage measurements pointed to internal IC voltage bias problems, and then the penny dropped it could be that. You can't see these cracks with the naked eye, so I had to use my macro lens or my Mantis to see them, not something I'd ordinarily do first.
My bad then.
Now the radio strip is out of sync with the cog wheel DOH! 4:55
@@EEVblog Apologies Dave, I thought you might have noticed the bad joints earlier on, also. Mea Culpa, sir.
As I said, first thing I do is comment on the design when opened, next step look for basic visuals (requires microscope to see the cracks), next measure voltages. In this case the voltages pointed to the chip, so visual inspect closer and bingo. Standard procedure. Take out my camera stuff and commentary, and this was 5 minutes of actual work until fault spotted. To find it quicker would require specific product failure knowledge.
"That's not a screwdriver... THIS is a screwdriver!"
Also surprised to see a service manual for a fairly modern consumer bit of gear. Impressive.
I see you've played screwdriver-screwdrivey before
.
Back in the day, you could get the service manual for even the most basic consumer tv.
@@GoldSrc_ I have a full set of Sams Photofacts from 1946 to about 2004. :)
@Lassi Kinnunen would most likely have been borderline late 80's early 90's, after that decent (if any) service manuals started to disappear. Also as a side note, that solder looks like some of the early attempts at lead free crap. I have seen almost entire boards of that era with dry joints, quite often coupled with oversized holes for the component legs.
the black cover in the battery compartment was probably for a different model that had a built in clock, they usually had a spot for 2 AA batteries in there behind the d cells. they probably reused the rear casing.
Ah, makes sense.
I don't think it was for anything like that. Instead I think it was for plastic molding. They needed a way to create an opening in the molded parts so sound could get into that port that goes to the front. To do that the mold tool had to come up from the battery compartment side into the center of the radio. They used a "label" to seal things back up when they were done.
Hey Dave - How many attempts did you make to get the Radio Tuning Indicator aligned to match the Tuning Capacitor position? - Chris
I miss the days when you could brag about your stereo and say "It's a Sony" and not get laughed at.
These days pretty much any stereo sucks. Integrated amps and receivers are best.
Sony still makes some quality gear. I still consider them a prestigious brand.
@@remyrattner6399 True, but boombox type stereos and those "1000W PMPO" speakers were trash and still are trash. Even their car "xplod" line is mostly trash. They have good integrated amps and some older car amps, have old XM-4020 and it does more than it's rated for and it sounds great.
Dave pretending he doesn't have a Kylie CD in his top drawer. 😊
I should be so lucky
@@EEVblog Dave you just made me grin like an idiot.. again. That and the laughs in the video.. good job my wife is tolerant. ;-)
With a signed pinup as well.
I think the word you're looking for the "80's boombox" is "ghettoblaster" :^)
17 inch shaft, not much in the way of girth but impressive nevertheless
Good enough for the girls I go out with!
Your mom will be happy
and proud of your work ...
450 mm screwdriver ?
Wow 450mm
Its made to reach the two screws holding a TV on a wall mounted bracket.
@@menuly From the other side of the wall, or what? :)
@@mrnmrn1 underneath vertically.
'Dry as a dead Dingos Donga' - David L. Jones 2019
you must be a new subcriber :D
this is the Ducks guts', 'half a bees d*** more expensive' lol
'Half of a bee's d*** more expensive' - David L. Jones 2019
I want that on my gravestone.
I wish providing service manuals and making stuff repairable was still a trend. It's awesome to see that there even is a service manual and all that info it has, and for the product to be easy to work with.
"Drier than a dead dingo's donger! "
I laughed, I cried, I was moved. It has become a part of me.
Brian Sullivan dick smith reference
You ate it?
Tech Tip: You'll need to 'sync up' the tuning mechanism before you re-install the front!
I watching that thinking exactly the same lol.
Sony is known for bad solder joints back then. Same in their TVs and component stereo receivers.
Wave soldering in general causes bad joints. See my comment above.
I have a Sony STR-D1090 that was riddled with dry solder joints. including one of the main outputs on the transformer with no solder at all. it was a wonder it even worked from the start.,
My receiver failed that way I think.
I remember a Sony where the bad joint completely collapsed on reflow. The joint was just a giant solder bubble.
My Sony receiver (STR-D990) quickly developed a faint squeal. It also turned out to be a bad connection in the preamp stage. Sad part on that is that the squeal came back. It wasn't hard to find where the tech had worked on it, and I reflowed the joint again and found that the pad had lifted. Ran a wire to replace it, and it quieted down again.
Good to see one of those old "stereos" around and operating. Sony stuff back in the day (1990's) was some of the best lower-priced stuff around. They had some really good acoustics on some of the older "bookshelf" systems.
At one point, I did own an old ZS-D1 CD/radio. AFAIK, it wasn't a widely-sold model, or particularly well-known on the market. My mistake, as it was one of the shittiest models they made. Big, heavy-ish, chunky body and piss-poor speakers & acoustics. Bargain-basement Radio Shack garbage speakers glued onto the back of ugly, oversized grilles. The CD player crapped out and stopped reading/ ejecting properly in about 18 months.
1:17 - I'm guessing the filter cap 'formed' during the interval between when you powered it on (probably after many years) and when you started adjusting the volume! Anyway, that cap sounds (literally!) like a candidate for replacement.
No need to swear, Dave! (1:35), you have video and audio evidence!
You can clearly see it was the end of boombox era, especially when taking a look at the CD-mechanism and ..... the tape deck.... (i quess with plastic flywheels (without any iron weight) and permanent magnet as erase 'head'). The lower quality caps (see some TEC and Lelon branded ones), brittle caramel PCB's, molded heatsink, plastic everywhere, hotsnot, avoiding screws (in some clever way tho), clearly build to lower the costs. You don't want to be critical because it is a Sony? Is it made in Japan or already made in China? Anyway, does mom have cats or dogs?
I can't belive you've never seen those AC/DC switchng power sockets before, they've been around since the 70's on crappy mono cassette players!
One must remember that, 'and that's all she wrote' and 'nothing much going on there', is highly subjective to one's own life experiences!
Yep I've got one of those and it has that socket.
Louis Rossmann would be proud of Sony
I've seen the same thing on CRT monitors. The joints on the flyback transformers crack in the same way. Heat and vibration does it...
@@blitzwing1Yes, lead free is worse for this
"D cells - not those mongrel C cells" HaHa.
Omg. This same model sits in my desk right now still working!
Check the joints!
@@jacksoncroyce6063 Someday, he'll have to spend more money on a screwdriver long enough to open it than he will to fix it.
Thanks for the video, Dave! My wife and I really enjoy your colloquial turns of phrase. "Bob's your Uncle" is hysterical. I found this video because I just happened across a "Winner, Winner Chicken Dinner" pretty complete CFD-565 that's going to need new tape transport belts. I wanted to get one "portable/boombox thing" for travel purposes, should that need arise (it probably won't, but restoring this stuff is my retirement hobby) and I owned a "Fish" brand box back in the '80s. The CFD-565 was fairly inexpensive considering how "overbuilt" it appears to be. It lacks Cassette Bias/EQ settings, tape counter, and the like, but it seems to be much better built than some of these eye-poppingly hyperinflated boxes. My question (I'm in the U.S.) is why don't Sony boomboxes get more respect than they do? I think their specs are held to a more conservative standard than some of the "45wpc" cash register/calculator manufacturer machines out there, so I just don't get it. But then I wasn't really part of the youth culture that fetished the park it on your shoulder and turn it up phenomenon. I sold a bunch of them to those folks in the '80s, though. What am I missing? $3K for a no-name knockoff? Help me out a little...best regards!
OMG I figured they were port holes not tweeters. They faked the bass reflex smh
JAY LEE sometime sits just the same mould being used from other models that do have real tweeters
@@Dan_07 doesn't change the fact that its misleading
the bass reflex port is down below the front panel, it's square in shape. It is still useless, as I have noticed numerous other holes in the case.
JAY LEE Not really as it is not specified in the specs
haha disassembling this type of boombox was always a nightmare, screwdriver was always too short !
In america the front was completely in black. i used to have this exact similar model.
You can resin cast a copy of the missing knob from the working one, if that sort of thing gets on your nerves.
Love your repair videos
Or you make one (roughly) with epoxy paste. Or 3D print one
lol! I repaired so so many of those stupid things in the 90s.
The bits of foam would have been placed to faciltate in the 'tuning' of the enclosure.
Do you mean to minimise the chances of it resonating?
@@jam99 'tuning' is an all encompassing phrase in enclosure design terms.
@@gerrabath Thanks but that tells me nothing. It's like saying the foam is there because it is designed that way. Accurate but not useful.
@@jam99 Sorry I thought you were being sarcastic at the use of what could be considered a vague term. My bad.
Yes, you're right about placement of baffling material to aid in the nullifying of the inherent resonant tendencies of susceptible cabinet materials :-)
@@gerrabath Thank you. In this case (20yrs ago), do you think they just did it by trial and error or would they have had some kind of software modelling to work it out?
Touching up cold solder joints has never failed me. I did it to an old 1980s ghetto blaster boombox the Magnavox D8443 because the audio power output was very low and cutting out and I touched up the solder joints on the main capacitor and a few dozen other joints and the radio works much better. I am in the process of restoring this set as best I can.
3D print some new knobs and you really have a winner. Well done Dave, that took me back to my techie days
I repaired consumer electronics right outta school like this, I gotta say it was quite enjoyable and generally speaking easy to troubleshoot and repair
Dave discovering the AC/DC switching made me chuckle.
We had a lesser model as radios in a casino I used to work at. They took a LOT of falls from six feet up. What usually did them in was too many face-down smacks to the volume pot or mode switch. Nearly every antenna got broken, but we used paper-clip chains Scotch-taped to the wall. They actually put out a decent quality of sound in small rooms, the Bass Boost actually worked.
Sony stuff from that era is notorious for cold cracked solder joints. I bet ive repaired 100's of Sony home receivers and 100's of Sony car audio equipment with the same crappy solder joints.So now days thats the first suspect for me lol
Wow, Dave gets as excited looking at a Sony schematic as I do looking at a girlie magazine... but I understand... lol
so do I as Sony has the best schematic diagrams, easy to follow. I used to work in a repair shop by the way.
That thing is a blast from the past. I used to work for a Tandy Electronics store in 1998-2000. I remember selling that exact model.
6:40 - The asymmetrical placing of the foam is probably to reduce standing-waves.
So typical of wave-soldered boards with heavy through-hole components with larger pins. Power ICs, connectors, etc. Also it may be prudent to check the solder on the pots.
It's not just heat cycling that cause the crack joints. Remember, it's a boombox, so it might have accepted some kind of impact sometime it its life!
(edit: The very deep screw holes is common on Sony products!)
That's Sony for you,, we fixed many Sony Tv's withe bad solder joints. Many times the sets would come in dead. Dave learned his lesson don't spend time looking for bad parts, first do a visual inspection.
Very good and nice video. I like it 👍
Your "long range" screwdriver is blowing my mind. It's a beast! :-) The size is absolutelly matter! :-) :-) :-) Greeting's from Poland :-)
I just went over a Sony sport "boom box".
Also converted it to rechargable lithium batteries instead of 6 c's
How do you make sure they are balance charged properly.
@@simontay4851 With a charging controller I would assume
@@simontay4851
I don't feel it needs balancing.
I'm using 2 18650s savaged from the same device that tested with almost identical capacity and wired them parallel.
My guess is I'll get a usable 2500 mAh from that pack
Not a lot but you can play the radio for hours.
The used a boost converter to give me the solid 9v it needed.
The converter has a solid built in charger with over and under protection and was like 2$
Always hated these plastic piece of crap radios. No matter if it is sony or other brand, they all sound awful. Good for a repair video, otherwise I would just bin it.
I call it the pawnshop edition.
Where are the two function/volume knobs?
I'd smoke a classic joint with you.
Not just power devices. Connectors too. Had this on a 1997 Dodge Caravan Minivan a couple months ago I was working on for a friend. Went in to fix a speedometer issue... but then I was told "oh, the gauges completely die somtimes too". Pulled the instrument cluster, sure enough, all but three of the connector pin joints were cracked. "easy" fix since I had the cluster out anyway. Seems to be a common issue on GM and Chrysler stuff of the era (luckily, Ford used film PCBs that don't have such issues; I can't speak for non-USA makes).
Honda had issues with the main relay soldier joints failing through out the 90s. Random stalls and long restarts are a good clue
Ooh, Dave....come...on this is *not* a classic boombox...but this is a sh!tty plastic late 90s toy.
A real Boombox is a JVC M90, sharp G9x9x series, Lasonic...etc but not this....;)
Oh, nevermind, you corrected yourself...:)
At last a repair on the EEVblog instead of just laughing a busted gear.
Those tape drives are pretty good
LOL Dave I just fixed my Mum's Sanyo boombox last week. the cassette works great once again.
Dave “ Sony makes fantastic manuals” then just rips in to the boom box without reading the manual :(
You've never done that?
Yes, I have ripped into a job without reading the manual if there is one not available, Dave is very good at educating people about electronics so a little bit of professionalism would be appreciated.
@@davidroberts2429 Why? It shows that we can all make mistakes. Take it as a learning curve.
@@davidroberts2429 Oh get over it. "a LiTTLe pRoFesIiOnALiSm."
I think he looks at the manual at exactly the right time. I would bust out the manual until after the teardown either.
Maybe the sticky bit was to control the resonance of the batteries at high bass volumes?
soooo.....Dave....Your "More" List has EVERYTHING....Except....How to Send You Something to TearDown ...(Hint:Something Old).....
i have a very similar boombox except mine takes way more batteries.
I remember having one as a kid I swear it must have taken like 16 D cells (exaggerating but it felt like a lot at the time). Just keep inserting them in and it just never ends! Runs for about an hour. lol.
5:20 speakers are made in china all the best things are made in china
The "sticky bit" is so they could terminate the bass ports and have them open at the back. There was likely a protrusion on the rear mold die that butted up to the front die to form the gap at the back on the ports. Probably throwing a sticker there was the easiest way to block off the resulting cavity after molding the case.
Someone mentioned it's an option for a battery backup model.
Is amazing how this comment sounds like he knows exactly what it is. If I didn't read the other comment, I'd think this guy knew exactly what he was talking about.
@@xenonram That's because Im an engineer, and if you read the comment Dave is referring to, another poster said the same thing I did: its from the molding process. Have a look at the opening behind the sticker. Notice anything? Like the fact that it has the SAME shape and dimensions as the exterior outline of the bass ports? That's because the rear mold injection die likely had a protrusion in it to form the rear of the bass ports. Plastic injection molds have to be able to be pulled directly from the formed parts, so you need a pretty straight shot to get them off. At most there will be some draft to help with the extraction process. The only way you could practically form a blind feature like having the ports stop a few cm from the rear of the case is to have the rear half have a mating protrusion to form them. This obviously will leave a cavity in the molded part, which has to be filled in some how. Its the most likely explanation since "battery backup" doesn't make much sense. Theres no clock or anything to maintain, and the boom box is too large to be a clock radio/alarm. On top of that, there is not enough space or features to accommodate having a pair of AA's behind the sticker. Putting a black plastic strip is an easy way to hide it in a low buck consumer part.
@@xenonram Now, as for why they did it like that, there is a support for the circuit board on top of that rear portion of the bass port. This was probably a relatively simple way to get the support in the center without obstructing the bass port, since it looked like they at least made an effort to get it to perform ok acoustically. Making the port two sections in each half of the case may have also allowed them to get enough depth of the port without having to omit the supports or have some complex feature around the bass port to incorporate the PCB support, or have the port be excessively long since it would be harder to get it to mold properly and not have it get distorted dimensionally. Hard to say and we can only speculate what their line of thought really was, but it does look like some effort went into the bass response since they have foam bits everywhere to try and tune it. Its possible its for something else (or could have had an alternate use in the early design), but it doesn't appear that way from looking at it.
Come a gutsa count, anyone?
If you still fax schematics you should be fired.
Always interesting to see repairs on your channel =D
Dave ! That's not a screwdriver, it's a sword ! (4:00)
The radio tuning indicator should have been lined up before the radio was reassembled! Great video anyway, I used to get those from the scrap yard and fix them at home, sometimes I was very lucky and all that was needed was a jumper wire for a blown fuse or replacing a transformer because some of them have internal fuses. We have 2-phase power utility in most homes and people sometimes forgot to flip the voltage selector switch before turning on the radio.
Ours is a CFD-S33. Did we get the wrong one?
Had Dave done a visual inspection, the video would have lasted 5 minutes, including disassembly and reassembly :)
Probably lead-free eco solder fail.
This whole episode just reminds me of moss from the IT crowd staring at board and laughing at the makers of it.
Dave's Troubleshooting Tips:
1. Turn it off and on again.
2. Film it.
love your videos dave :)... i see alot of "boomboxs" with faulty/open vol controls cause this issue has well
Yeah, crusty carbon pots.
So what I want to know is, did you get the radio tuner indicator aligned with the actual tuner?
Ha ha I second that! I could only cringe and watch in horror.
Turn the tuner can all the way to its end and do the same to the indicator. We've done this many a time maintaining the Sony box we have.
Tune radio to known station then move the dial to appropriate place reassemble
@@danthemancasey "cringe and watch in horror" ugggghhh.
@@xenonram Well not to be dramatic or anything...
I remember that unit. :-)
seems like Dave always jumps in the deep end when its something as simple as bodgy solder joints!
You mean jumping in the deep end and doing silly stuff like measuring power supply voltages? :-/
@@EEVblog nah i mean pulling out the schematic...before doing a proper visual inspection! :P
Wouldn't a broken antenna more likely leak radio-activity? ;)
My favorite type of video Dave! Thanks for this one! :) I learned a lot here.
I have Logitech x-230 2.1 PC speakers. When I moved, I noticed that the sub hums even when the speaks are turned off and the audio jack is disconnected. At night I have to unplug the power to the speakers to silence the hum. I also notice that if I plug a USB charger into the outlet and then have Bluetooth headphones charging on the USB while listening to them there will be a hum that stops when I unplug the USB. Any ideas? Is there a filter I can buy or make? I have two outlets in my room and they both hum and there isn't any motors or anything on that circuit. My house is old, the wiring is partly new (1980's) partly old (1940's).
It's inherent in the design, and it's true of almost all speakers. See EEVblog #1118 and #1128.
The hum is caused by the Y capacitor between primary and secondary in the switch mode power supply of the USB charger.
Pff... Foam, I've got 1981 JVC Boombox which looks like it has 2 different speakers from factory
Insert "Now THAT'S a screwdriver" Crocodile Dundee joke here...
At minute 22:15: Very good to see the crack in the solder. This probably occurred more often on PCBs with a single side copper layer. Even if the component was not mechanically screwed to the PCB separately?
My parents have bought me one, same like this, I believe, in 1998 or 9 (I was 5 or 6 at the time), and two CDs of Bob Marley with it.... still have the player and the CDs and they all still work... The CD pickup is almost dead though, and the switch for AC/DC that's integrated into the socket has to be extra pressed with a piece of folded paper to work.... I've always wanted to fix it, but I've not yet bought a long enough screw driver to reach those deep back screws...
Funny, I have the same one, CFD-V15, here which someone had thrown out at work a few weeks ago and I hadn't gotten around to looking at until seeing your video. One speaker is completely FUBAR and the tone control knob is missing but other than that it seems OK. Thinking I might just harvest the AC transformer from it as I always seem to need them (hopefully it's a dual secondary winding).
Ah so the chip was heating up because somehow the power going to the speakers was being dissipated there? And the chip is still OK after being on like that? good luck syncing that frequency dial again.
It's easy on those Sonys. Just put the tuning condenser and the dial both together on either end of the spectrum. Done.
Just use a digital radio, seek for the station on the dail. Trial and error till you got right on the spot. Nothing too cmplicated.
Come on, I like the 15-minute B-S "safety and further damage" lecture before the presenter plugs in anything on the workbench. People like you, who just plug it in and see what happens are boring. (smile)
Hi there, new subscriber...This made me think of the Yamaha DSP A1 Amplifier that has the dreaded display pixel disappeaer. Almost all of these amps now have the display miss pixels, I have fixed over 10 of them so far, requires resoldering 32 pins on the top and bottom the display, the joints do excatly what happened here to this Sony Boombox. Great find and good repair job!
As a kid I remember excitedly pulling apart my Silver branded boombox which had 80W PMPO proudly emblazoned across the front only to find a couple of small paper coned full range drivers rated at 3w each. Put it back together and sulked for a while!
i can't stop thinking about dave doing sports listening to this boom box. Thankfully my thoughts have been recorded on tape: th-cam.com/video/ozoTzkCeO-A/w-d-xo.html
Is that large screw driver a Lexington Steele brand?
That was great Dave. And is why I love working on this type of stuff. Always dry joints or faulty caps in these.
Jep, i can easily confirm that...i own several (real;) BoomBoxes and usually when there was intermitent sound issues the PowerAmp(s) have solderjoint fails. Also the belts of the cassette drive needs to be replaced almost every time.
Makes me remember that good old days i was 15 ( in 1995 ) repairing similar kind of boomboxes , TV´s and spicas for neighbours , with the money i bought an Atari 65 xl , programming since then ...
Nice!
Dave, I did warranty service of Sony products during that time period. Sometimes with certain models of Sony or other brands out-of-the-box, there were cold solder joints mainly on those components that are heat-sinked. Like you said, a bad batch of solder or too short of time through the wave solder. Before I was laid off in 2001, there were a lot of solder errors in certain models of many brands that came out that year. The muxes were fine, it was the heat-sinked components. Remember, a lot of the circuit boards were made by a few contractors for these brands, so you can see the same boards in these Japanese brands. The first thing I did with these models is to open up and check the solder joints to these components.
This is a CLASSIC issue, power device mounted on a heat sink/expansion contraction. I have also seen this on an old high voltage TV transformer in a Pioneer large screen projection TV. Had to re-solder on several occasions but was the only failure ever on the TV itself! Great repair video.
These radio/cd/cassette players had all the type of failures.Cassette mechanism related,laser head probably KSS213,terminal microswithes oxidation,input selector contacts oxidation,volume potentiometer scratches and loose contact,headphone jack dry joins and oxidated contacts,power supply socket dry joins and oxidation contacts between dc and battery switch auto selector,external antenna and sometimes its holder replacement,speakers replacement.But it needed one or two hours for repairing depending the fault and many technicians prefered tv and video repairings as more easy with more money.
Haha I really think that those solder joints resisted more than constant daily cooldown jaja Maybe the aluminum structure did this because of weight, and physics. haha Like always your videos are pure gold. So much more interesting than watching series or movies. A hug!
Fake-tweeter: I've seen some models where the low-end exterior was simply the high-end exterior with a few holes not cut out. (instead of simply looking for the tweeter 'dip', I would check if the tweeter magnet/core was visible)
I remember seeing a similar model boom box as a kid here in the states. The only difference I remember was the “bass reflex body” label was different, and Sony used the phrase “MEGA BASS” in gold lettering in the same place.
I guess Sony couldn’t use the phrase MEGA BASS in Australia?
Mega Bass models had a dedicate woofer that could be turned on optionally, this one relies only on bass reflex from the speakers ;-D
...That might explain also the foam job in the speaker cavity, it's done to muffle bass sounds and avoid echo, but in the other speaker is not necessary because there's the power supply naturally reducing echo ;-D
sony gear from this era seemed especially susceptible to this issue. I've seen this issue with every sony component I own. TV's, tape decks, amps. They must have used the least amount of solder possible and it just fatigues away and cracks.
The asymmetrical foam is probably to dampen standing waves, symmetry inside the enclosure is not gonna matter much anyway as most stereo information is gonna come from the front of the drivers and the enclosure is meant to be just one bass reflex system.
Symmetry in the enclosure would even increase some standing waves dependent on the internal walls facing each other etc. and possibly cause "fluting" in the port.
*Hmm, they do have a wall in the molding _sort of_ separating both chambers so the piece of foam on the right might be to compensate for the difference in volume with the extra board on the left side... pretty sure the piece of foam in the port is for the "fluting" problem though.
_(audio design dropout)_
Thanks
Lower impedance drivers draw same amount of power then high impedance drivers, they use them so they can put cheaper part's in such as an entire amplifier on an i/c, not to save batteries. The other reason why they might have done it is lower impedance drivers have stronger force, resulting in better sound quality and output, though probably not doing any favors for this boombox lol!
That is hilarious. I am just an amateur, but had the same problem with a sony car radio. It lost sound on vibration and did this buzzing sound. I looked for the problem so long. It is really hard to catch those little cracks. Sony schematic are really great.
Is the revision number high or low with all those after fixes? Resistors, wires, diods... All over the place!
please put subtitles in Portuguese! Many Brazilians will assist your channel and this will help to have greater visibility in Brazil.
This was a really nice troubleshooting video. Thumbs up :)