This may change how you use your miter saw
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2024
- ▼ IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO: ▼
Miter saw holding stick: lddy.no/1ir6y
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▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼
Miter saw holding stick: lddy.no/1ir6y
*The BEST blades I have ever used are from Ridge Carbide. These are the three I think every shop should have:*
- Ridge Carbide 40-tooth table saw combo blade- (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades/ridge-super-blades/table-saw-blades/10-ts2000-super-blade.html
- Ridge Carbide 80-tooth table saw OR miter saw crosscut/plywood blade (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/collections/miter-radial-saw-blades/products/10-x-80-ar-4-1-5-hk-087-115-rs1000-super-miter
- Ridge Carbide 24-tooth table saw rip blade (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades/ridge-super-blades/table-saw-blades/10-ts2000-full-kerf-rip-super-blade.html
*My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery:* www.harveywoodworking.com/
*My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★
- #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
-BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
Regarding #4: Never cut a piece that is not long enough to fit between the gap between the fences. When you need to cut a short piece, create an auxiliary fence by putting a board that is wide enough to span the gap between the fences behind the work to be cut. If your work is narrow enough, you can use the backup piece repeatedly without cutting through it.
This is exactly what I was going to write. Thanks.
I agree to all. I’ll use a sacrificial piece long enough to more than bridge the gap. Wide enough not to cut all the way through and thus have an issue with two pieces going askew or flying around. But that hold down tool is cool.
As far as the small piece that doesn’t bridge the gap, I do use the fork stick, but I also put a longer sacrificial backing piece behind the short piece to support it all the way across the gap. Very safe.
Really great tips, especially love the first one to measure more accurately.
That reminds me of something my grandpa would’ve told me back in the day.
All great tips. With regards the 2nd, I'm often cutting larger prefinished solid pieces that have a tendency to chip or splinter if I use the way you show. What I do instead is I score the material with a light forward pull, and finish the cut the proper way.
Same here, I score the wood going forward and take a couple more shallow passes going forward. I've heard this idea of going backward with the saw blade for years, I don't buy it.
That being said, a sharp blade will do about anything.
Love the safety tips. Questions for J.H.: Why don’t you have a zero-clearance backer on your miter saw? Wouldn’t that help with small pieces falling in the gap? It should also help with tear-out on the backside. One can add a zero-clearance insert as well.
Any time you need to cut a miter or beveled cut it will cut out a triangle section of the zero clearance fence/insert. This is why most miter saw fences have a relief section which is the cause for the gap anyway. So it comes down to how often you cut small pieces vs miters as to whether to have a zero clearance fence equipped by default on your saw or vice-versa.
@@du3lmaul3rs50 True. What we need is an insert that we can fit into the fence for 90 degree cuts and remove for miters, or something to that effect.
@@incognitotorpedo42 I was going to suggest that, along with the "10 Million Dollar Stick", use what would be the equivalent to a "sacrificial fence" on a table saw. Just place any square piece of long scrap wood, long enough to completely span the clearance of the miter saw's fence, next to that fence and then place your piece you want to cut in front of that. That scrap piece of wood now becomes a sacrificial fence and, because you've made sure that it's square, it basically becomes an extension of the support of the actual fence. Using the $10 million dollar stick along with this "backer" board would make this the safest possible way to cut small stock with a miter saw. I have a 12" Ridgid and use this method anytime I need to cut something small and don't want to set up the table saw or drag out my bulky table saw sled for just one or two cuts. Works great!
Most miter saws have sliding fences so I attach backer board to that then just slide it out away from the blade when making diagonal cuts.
To address the comments regarding the miter cuts, my metabo saw, and I imagine most quality saws, has holes in the fence so you can bolt/screw your zero clearance fence to them that can slide in and out with the factory fence so you can move them for miter cuts
The 10M Dollar Stick is a safety tool no woodworker should be without. I have 1 and have purchased several for friends as well. I still work as a Paramedic, and I can tell you from terrible experience how saws and fingers do not get along well. Fingers ALWAYS lose! And the victim is always a woodworker with years of experience.
I got one of the Million Dollar sticks when you showed it a few months ago. Tip #1 about how old timers set the kerf so they have a reference point for measuring where to put the stop is just an amazing tip and I plan to start using it tomorrow!
One tip that I haven't seen on TH-cam I have used quite often. This will work only on a relatively narrow board- maybe 1 x 4 or so. If you are fitting a board inside a fixed space and it is very slightly too long try this. With the saw comletely stopped and lowered, place the board against the blade but not on the carbide teeth. Raise the blade, strart the saw, and make the cut. You will cut only a few thou off the end of the board.
Cutting from the front of the board to the back increases the ability of your chop saws dust collection boot to effectively pull the sawdust into the vacuum (assuming you have a vacuum attached to the chopsaw) because it more easily directs the sawdust from the cut up towards the dust collection boot. I do this on short boards and haven't had a problem with splintering.
On boards longer than a couple of inches, I make a shallow cut the length of the board by pulling the saw from back to front starting about an inch into the board, thus creating a kerf channel for the dust to be pushed up towards the dust boot. Then I push the saw back in the kerf.
If the board is thick I make several shallow cut to use the kerf channel to direct the sawdust into the dust boot. I make my final cut from the front of the board to the back.
I hope my instructions made sense because it really does decrease the amount of random sawdust going everywhere, but your chop saw has to be tuned up to create a perfect perpendicular cut to the fence.
Try it, you'll see.
For the small piece, a “0 clearance auxiliary fence is a great addition to the hold down.
I do agree with you, but in the UK they are regarded as Chop and Draw
An alternative for your last tip (not as safe): place a scrap piece flat against the fence that spans the opening to use as your fence guide to cut your smaller piece. Anything with 2 straight edges and wider than the fence opening. And because this moves the work forward, it often allows the piece you need cut to be clamped and get fingers well away.
Always appreciate your videos and especially your humor. I rewatch the old videos with you and Mustache Mike often when I need a good laugh. Always good information
Stumpy, you suggested the Miter Saw Holding Stick in one of your videos a couple of years ago. I think it was called the Million Dollar stick or something like that. I ordered that day. Don’t think it was from Amazon. After using it one time, I never risk my fingers again. It is the best safety device in my shop. Glad you mentioned it again. Hope everyone pays attention.
It is from Fastcap
When necessity demands small piece cuts, I'll place a long scrap piece against the fence, the place the smaller piece in front, it will have full support. I also use the hold down stick cuz I have an affinity for my fingers. The scrap piece is wide enough to not be cut all the way through when the small piece is cut. I have four miter saws and ten digits along with forty years experience. Never get complacent, it'll fix stupid very quickly.
I absolutely love my holding stick! I got a scare this year from cutting into (not through, thank God!) my fingertip on my table saw, and it made me examine my safety equipment and practices. A featherboard for the table saw and a holding stick for the miter saw are the best investments I have made in my shop.
It still amazes me that we still hold lumber with our hands on these machines. Here we have had saws for almost a hundred years and they are still making them like they used to!
Miter saw holding stick!!! I can't tell you how many times something bad almost happen trying to cut small pieces. I have tried all kind of techniques. These should come bundled w/ miter saws.
Thank You for your tips. I really enjoy them. I also have two suggestions. One: allow the saw to come to a complete stop before lifting so any scrap end on the right won't be thrown. Two: when cutting small pieces, cut another piece first to make a zero clearance backing. Thank You again
I made a zero clearance backer for my miter saw. It does a good job reducing chip out. The only problem is that it must be removed before making an angle cut.
Cutting any kind of rough lumber with twist, bow, or cup, or a combination, with a power saw, even a hand held power saw is hazardous if things don't go right. My wife's uncle, a framer and finish carpenter, lost three fingers on one hand using a circular doing just that. His advice and practice when I met him was to use a hand saw to break up stuff to approximate length. He even gave me two handsaws and advice on how to use them properly to accurately make square and vertical cuts. I thanked and paid attention, having had similar advice from my own grandfather.
For #2 my saw has a holder to make sure the piece does not lift. I suggest adding such a holder if you don’t have one. It not only holds it down, but holds it to a measurement as well.
#4 is great! I have had small pieces of trim go flying and done that nervous count to five after. I have a shop made tool to hold small pieces, but will be ordering that product ASAP because my solution is still a bit sketchy sometimes. This is my most uncomfortable operation on the miter saw and I often just pull out a handsaw in these cases just to avoid the inevitable. Thanks for that tip and product link!
I taught sewing and quilting for a number of years. The cutting instrument most often used then (who knows, they may use CNC machines now) is a rotary cutter. Think pizza cutter, but razor sharp. Most novices would start the cut at the far end of the fabric and pull forward, as you show for the miter saw. I always had to explain why we called this move a "do it yourself hysterectomy."
For a simple hand tool those things defintely rate on the "unexpectedly dangerous" scale. The cutting edge is scalpel sharp! Accidentally took a chunk out of an aluminium rule with one once.
Thanks, James. Another safe way to cut small pieces on a miter saw is to make a zero-clearance sled plus using a hold-down device to keep your fingers out of the way. I’ve made such a sled (was it you or Colin Knecht?) and it even makes me feel safer when it is installed. No little pieces flying around or down the gullet of the throat plate, and because of the back fence there is no place for the off-cut or the good piece to get dragged behind the blade or fence.
All excellent suggestions. Your videos are appreciated, even though my miter saw remains virtually unused; by far the least used tool in my shop.
Thank you - I'm 65 with 40+ years carpentry - you still taught me something new.
Another thing you can do and I always have. You can see @5:28, the slotted holes in the fence, they are used to put a sacrificial fence on. I put a solid piece of baltic birch plywood across my fence, put screws in those slotted holes from the back (making sure they don't poke thru the front) and then just make a cut thru it. Now you have a zero clearance fence. Gives you cleaner cuts and it's way safer to cut smaller pieces, if you must, but I would also recommend using that holding stick as well. If you need them off for a reason, its only to short screws on each side.
I bought a Million Dollar Stick after watching your previous video about it and makes tricky cuts safe - I've learnt a lot from your channel but this this was a tool I wasn't aware of so many thanks for that 🙂
I often use kerfing cuts without actually thinking about it and I always swap blades when say swapping from rougher framing to finer trim work.
The million dollar stick is well worth the $30.00 . Great video !
Awesome info as always. Thanks James...never stop learning on this channel!
Thanks for the tips.....really beneficial!
Even though I have seen many safety videos, watching another one is worth it. Repetition is something that many companies promote in their safety programs.
I slap a scrap piece of wood that spans the gap of the mitre saw in along with any small lumber being cut. You can generally avoid cutting all the way through it and have a template for where the next piece should go too.
Oh that first tip! Nice. Thanks James! Thumbs up.
This video made me happy as the 10 Million Stick was a stocking stuffer for me this year. I had literally just received it in the morning. I don't remember where I saw the 10 Million Stick first, but it was probably here, and I'm glad to finally have one!
Excellent tips & suggestions SN! Happy Holidays to you & your family! 👍👍🌲🌲
Really thoughtful and important post.
Nothing but good ideas coming from you. Thank you.
Thanks Stumpy. One of your best videos ever. I have the same miter saw.
Great tips! Ordered a stick.
Thanks for the safety reminders and tip on positioning stop blocks.
Your videos are invaluable and my fingers thank you.
That first tip blew me away... great idea
For the last tip, I'd suggest also clamping on an extra sacrificial type fence to help support your work.
As always, I appreciate all your videos because I think they are made with the intention of expanding my knowledge and helping me keep all my fingers
My Bosch manual clearly describes your tip #2. That doesn't mean anyone will follow it, but I do.
I use a scrap piece of long wood when cutting a small piece of wood. Works great!
Thanks a bunch for all the tips, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And happy holidays!
A+ on the miter saw holding stick.
Excellent knowledge about the sliding miter saw cut direction! I'll definitely pass that info along.
Best tips I’ve ever seen thank you
This might be the most useful tips video I have seen…..and you’ve done some good ones! Thank you.
Thank you for your great insight and straight to the point advise, I appreciate such things.
Wow, measuring from the kerf is a great idea! Thanks for sharing.
All are excellent tips. Didn't know about the holding stick.
Nice tips as always!
I've been using the Fastcap stick on the mitre and tablesaw for years now and, yep, it's a great and easy to use holddown.
All good tips! Thanks a bunch!
Excellent tips! Thanks for sharing (and caring).😌
Thanks. Ordered the push stick and the first tip was gold.
Tip no. 1 is very good. Nos 2&3 I already knew, and I agree with Roger Hodges' comments below regarding No 4. An excellent vid though and admirably concise; so many vids with lists of things are spoilt by interminable preamble. This one gets down to business straight away.
I have been in the business for 40+ years. I still get good info from your videos. Stuff I have not thought of. I now buy Ridge Carbide blades exclusively. Run-out is superior. Cut is excellent when using the right blade for the task.
I have had one of the those "Million dollar sticks" since I got my miter saw. I keep it right next to the saw. Also, as a Flyers fan, thank you for not having you Red Wings cup in the video. LOL
I set the depth stop to cut about ¼ inch deep on a kerf cut, but do the kerfcut on the pull. I then cut on the push full depth after flipping the stop up. This method virtually eliminates chip-out and it is more stable and controllable
Safety is always important, especially the Ten Million Dollar Stick, which I use all the time. Keep 'em coming!
Got the stick. Great tool.
Thank you for the safety tips. I believe hearing old and new safety ideas will always remind you how vulnerable we are around machines, who have no feelings. I'm glad I watched your safety video today because I had forgotten the name of that hold-down stick and the discount code on my new favorite blades.
thanks for information and with all your videos its good to have these safty reminders to prevent problems before they happen and clue me in on what could happen.
I didn't know i should clean my table saw blades, worked great. Thanks for saving me money!
Thanks for the safety tips! Per your link, just purchased that 3rd hand small parts holder. Ive been often finding myself putting too much risk on my little body members, and this will make it so much more safe!
Love the first to eliminate kerf width issues, plus good safety tips as well
Great video James. I bought one of the hold downs the last time you showed it and it works brilliantly.
Take care James.
Cheers, Huw
All great suggestions. Thank you for sharing these safety tips. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
All great tips. I have the holding stick. It's great.🙂🙂
Got myself a $10 Million Stick and I absolutely am sold on it. Before I got it I did a few sketchy (at best) cuts--now when I do cut small pieces my nerves and fingers are at a bit more of an ease. Was just at the FastCap warehouse two days ago and they have them in stock. When I initially looked for them a few months back they were out for a few weeks. James, again thank you for teaching us about safety... I'm new to this craft and very much appreciate your teaching style.
Great tips. I also use the Ridge Carbide thanks to your recommendation, best blades I've ever used.
Appreciate this and all your videos. I would suggest a small auxiliary fence made of two pieces of 1x and clamped to the miter saw fence as another or augmented approach to #4. Keep up the great work.
for the small pieces? I've seen a scrap used to stabilize a small piece. of course, I've also seen the small piece cut with a japanese pull saw.
That measuring tip
Oh, thank you Sir ...
Great tips and well appreciated. I have two of the holding sticks. They are invaluable. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Great tips. I think that the first one will save me hours and give far better results for a big project that I have planned for our beach hut in the new year.
Once again...great information! Thank You.
Great tips as always. Thanks!
thanks for the tips. I recieved the hold down stick as a gift about a year ago. I think it's the best gift a woodworker can recieve.
I usually just use a larger piece of scrap to hold down the smaller pieces, but I also built a zero clearance table and fence that I can drop on to the saw and attach with 2 butterfly nuts. This stick looks good though, Probably holds much better than a scrap of lumber.
I always pushed the saw. It just seemed to make more sense to start with a small cut and then cut into the thinness of the wood rather than plunge into the full width.
I bought the safely hold down device a couple of years ago. Worth every penny.
all great tips, especially your last one. I haven't seen that doohickey, but i often use a scrap piece of longer wood to apply the downward pressure while cutting small pieces.
The first tip is a great tip that I have never come across before that I will use. All the others I practice as a habit. I remember when I done woodwork at school (many years ago) the woodwork teacher used to say "Keep your workpiece as long as possible as long as possible" which amonst other reasons is also a good safety tip.
Thank you so much for sharing your expertise and especially safety tips like these. These are all really great tips. Now all I have to do is remember them! 🙂 Thank you for all you do for the woodworking community!
I love the save option!
I agree that these tips are good. I haven't bought power tools before, but if each purchase came with the default set of safety tips, then I would be much more comfortable buying.
Kerfing is standard for me with rough sawn lumber as well as big box store lumber. If I’m wary that the piece is dry I spend the extra time kerfing and not chancing an accident.
Very helpful tips !!
Great tips James! I love my ten million dollar stick and I couldn't agree more that it is the best safety device for cutting small parts on the miter saw! The kerf tip was cool and yes they should all be in the manuals!
I purchased one of those miter saws sticks about a year ago....after watching one of your videos about it.
I had no idea that some people pull the cut. 🤯😱
That hold down does look good. Thanks for the recommendation
When I am cutting a small piece of lumber, I tape it to a longer sacrificial piece of 1/4" plywood of similar width, and cut both at the same time. Has always worked well for me.
Such good tips. I'm pretty sure I learned the kerfing technique from watching you years ago when I started in woodworking. Had one scary cut and then I've just always done it ever since. All of my cuts are clean and scare-free. Thanks for providing such great information.
All good tips. I especially like #3 as I cut large stock at work and have seen the binding problem I’d kerf cut Is not used. Thx for the reminders.
Cutting short pieces of wood that don't bridge the entire opening of the miter saw. Use a sacrificial scrap piece that bridges the gap, and the entire length of the short piece of wood. Place the sacrificial scrap piece against the fence & the short piece against the scrap piece. Use a holding stick/tripod devise, using both will minimize the piece twisting and keep your fingers clear of the blade.
I picked up the hold down stick from a previous video of yours and just a couple weeks ago had my saw pull a small piece out from under the stick it and fling it away. I'm really glad I wasn't holding it with my hand or I wouldn't be typing right now. Thanks for the tips!
Good tips mate, ones to remember