Just started stick welding few days ago for my printing shop diy. Im glad i found this channel, it helped a lot to jumpstart my welding performance. Thanks!
Great video. I wish you would continue this series. it is excellent. Even repeating previous covered topics. It can take many viewings presented in different ways to finally sink into your students heads.
Based on the vid title, I thought you were going to fix the bad welds, not show how to avoid making those mistakes. But I guess what other commenters said is probably true: grind it out and re-do it.
When measuring for underrfil do you have to take into account any contour on the plate; in this example the coupon wasn't totally flat so the underfil may change depending on which side of the plate you measure the weldment from?
in cold weather the rods act like crazy sticking to the metal like mad ... also i always burn through the metal edges... can you give a few pointers ? thanks a lot .
The defects here are excessive covexity and a huge crater at the end, NOT unequal leg. The whole weld profile on face A is one leg, should had welded the other side of the arrow to compare the legs difference. A single leg can't be unequal to itself. The code talks about "Excessive Covex or Concave whatever the case" or excessive reinforcement in case of Butt weld.
I see that you are welding on a thick plates. What is the method to do it on a thinner plates, something like a 2-3 mm plate ? if i move the stick 6 seconds for an inch , I will probably make some holes on the plate.
That's not worth using lol just get thicker metal if you're stick electrodes. The only way I see you using that thin material is running it cold and going fast when welding
I got a question for you I know when you are tiring in your welds, to start ahead and go back into your bead and burn over where you fired up but what about when starting your first bead do you strike off like a tie in thanks for all the info merry Christmas to y'all
I'm make stainless steel exhausts, (tig welding) argon is quite costly where I am, an old retired cryogenic truck engineer told me that I can purge my pipes with any inert gas like nitrogen while using argon only for the the welding surface, I've not seen or heard of anyone else do this so im wondering if it can be true? All advice is welcome
It is, inert just means it is a passive gas. supposed to active gas used in aluminum. MIG/MAG any one? a=active i=inert. Why don't you just try and find out for your self? that's the way to go, good luck. Do not ask questions, just try, thrust me i have welded a lot of stupid/weird stuff, and no one could tell you how to di it, just TRY and try again and again and again. I mean you are not welding the pipes of a hospital just try and learn.
Theres a couple of ways. Generally we just cut them on the ends where they're not really fused then grind the rest down. Or you can cut the whole thing off but leave a little on the back and sand that down. Probably 1000 different ways to do it though
I know I've asked this question before but when welding with flex core I've been told that the thickness dictates the stick out. I'm building a car trailer from 4in C channel 3/16 wall thickness and 2.5 angle same thickness and my stick out distance is about 3/8 is that a good to weld it.
Yes, tho you may also want to try up 5/8 as well and see what works best for you... taking into consideration the other variants and circumstances. good luck
" I slowed down and back up to 3/16" I sped up and back down to 1/4" Lol anything wrong with that statement? Yeah. 1/4 is bigger than 3/16 buddy.. wheres Bob at
BillyG the G stands for grove, there’s also F for fillet. The number is the position going from easiest to hardest. So 1 is flat, 2 is horizontal, 3 is vertical up, 4 is overhead. That is with plates and you do those positions for any type of joint like butt joints etc. Pipe has its own positions too. 1G pipe is on a rollout wheel so you just spin and weld where you’re comfortable. 2G is vertical and you move around the pipe. 5G is a fixed position 1G so you have to bend and weld overhead at the bottom. 6G is a 5G test but fixed at a 45 degree angle so it makes it a lot hard because you’re never straight the whole time.
@Weld.com Hey can you guys PLEASE do a similar series with TIG Welding Defects; since although similar, there are some unique issues that arise while using that process..?
24.5 volts 255 wire feed for all dual shield in 045 size and all positions tried them all hotter tyres them all colder 24.5 255 cannot beat those settings ss, 308,309,316, carbon 711
24.5 and 255 are my vertical and overhead settings actually. Generally I run 28.0 and 380 but I'm welding old water intake gates that are all rusted out and have sediment deposits and water in them so we run real hot. If I hot better steel on the inside in some boxes then I'll go down to 26.5 and 330. When we fill CJP's I like to run hot too until the cover pass. Just me though. And this is with dual shielded .045
Just started stick welding few days ago for my printing shop diy. Im glad i found this channel, it helped a lot to jumpstart my welding performance. Thanks!
Great video. I wish you would continue this series. it is excellent. Even repeating previous covered topics. It can take many viewings presented in different ways to finally sink into your students heads.
Saw the words ‘bad weld’ and thought you guys have been sneaking a peak at my work... 😆
I am preparing for my IIW practical exam and your videos are helping me a lot. Thank you
bob moffatt and mr tig paved the way
Mr tig was a jackass. Bob Moffatt was alright.
Don't forget about Jody too!
@@buddylee19082 Jody is the daddy without a doubt but he has his own channel. No disrespect to Bob Moffat but I actually like this guy more.
@@12345NoNamesLeft mr tig is a specialist never underestimate mr tig
Thanks alot for that. I'm Reubens T.T.J from Camneroon and presently, i'm in a welding school studying and hopping to become a very good welder
Nicely explained. That G1 plate ended up with quite a delta angle. Nice way to demo weld draw.
6:42 yeah...under-fill fixed...about that warp...
thanks for the tip about runoff tab
Based on the vid title, I thought you were going to fix the bad welds, not show how to avoid making those mistakes. But I guess what other commenters said is probably true: grind it out and re-do it.
Well explained. Thanks for sharing your time and experience. (Andrew).
Can u show us mig welding thick steel like 1inch or more and the correct procedure to do it
There is no one procedure it’s whatever your boss gives you is the one you use
@@6397561 there are standard procedures you can/should follow until your employer gives separate parameters
Step 1: make sure it's MiG and not Fluxcore
Step 2: throw it in the garbage
Step 3: buy a stick or Tig welder and put down a reliable weld
@Wroger Wroger I was just making a suggestion to a video they haven't done yet u wholly
When measuring for underrfil do you have to take into account any contour on the plate; in this example the coupon wasn't totally flat so the underfil may change depending on which side of the plate you measure the weldment from?
Thank you. Is your speed suggestion of 6 seconds per inch a standard or unique to the type of welding in this video?
What's the name of the anti spatter spray you usednin a video not too long ago ? I can't remember. My job wants you buy some
10 inches per minute sounds like a very fast welding speed. In my industry (pipelines) we usually weld in the the 4 to 8 inch per minute range.
in cold weather the rods act like crazy sticking to the metal like mad ... also i always burn through the metal edges... can you give a few pointers ? thanks a lot .
Appreciate it guys!
The defects here are excessive covexity and a huge crater at the end, NOT unequal leg. The whole weld profile on face A is one leg, should had welded the other side of the arrow to compare the legs difference. A single leg can't be unequal to itself. The code talks about "Excessive Covex or Concave whatever the case" or excessive reinforcement in case of Butt weld.
how to fix bad welds? grind them out of existence and start again, take no chances
exactly
I think bob did the math on this one
Great refresher 😁😁😁👍👍👍👍
Nice video as always. How would you prevent that angle? Someone else called it a delta angle.
I see that you are welding on a thick plates. What is the method to do it on a thinner plates, something like a 2-3 mm plate ? if i move the stick 6 seconds for an inch , I will probably make some holes on the plate.
That's not worth using lol just get thicker metal if you're stick electrodes. The only way I see you using that thin material is running it cold and going fast when welding
I enjoy your videos I am just one question can you do this with the wire feed as well
I got a question for you I know when you are tiring in your welds, to start ahead and go back into your bead and burn over where you fired up but what about when starting your first bead do you strike off like a tie in thanks for all the info merry Christmas to y'all
I'm make stainless steel exhausts, (tig welding) argon is quite costly where I am, an old retired cryogenic truck engineer told me that I can purge my pipes with any inert gas like nitrogen while using argon only for the the welding surface, I've not seen or heard of anyone else do this so im wondering if it can be true? All advice is welcome
It is, inert just means it is a passive gas. supposed to active gas used in aluminum. MIG/MAG any one? a=active i=inert.
Why don't you just try and find out for your self? that's the way to go, good luck.
Do not ask questions, just try, thrust me i have welded a lot of stupid/weird stuff, and no one could tell you how to di it, just TRY and try again and again and again.
I mean you are not welding the pipes of a hospital just try and learn.
Any tips on crater cracks?
Your teaching is awesome.
Multi pass corner joint fillet weld
I am new to welding, how do you remove a backing strap like you have in the video or do you leave them on permanently?
Theres a couple of ways. Generally we just cut them on the ends where they're not really fused then grind the rest down. Or you can cut the whole thing off but leave a little on the back and sand that down. Probably 1000 different ways to do it though
Thanks for the reply, was just wondering how that works when I hear someone say to remove backing strap.
I know I've asked this question before but when welding with flex core I've been told that the thickness dictates the stick out. I'm building a car trailer from 4in C channel 3/16 wall thickness and 2.5 angle same thickness and my stick out distance is about 3/8 is that a good to weld it.
Yes, tho you may also want to try up 5/8 as well and see what works best for you... taking into consideration the other variants and circumstances. good luck
" I slowed down and back up to 3/16" I sped up and back down to 1/4"
Lol anything wrong with that statement?
Yeah. 1/4 is bigger than 3/16 buddy.. wheres Bob at
George Duckworth not at all, back up to 3/16, I sped up and back down to 1/4. Commas are key
@@chickennugget2931 better? The problem is smart guy, 1/4 is bigger than 3/16. Duh
@@chickennugget2931 so are brains
I caught that as well.
Calm down lol
How do I fix 90degree welds that have contracted less than 90 degrees?
Does this apply to Tig too?
Not just because it's my plate 😂
What is the name of that green machine behind Red Beard on 7:45?
What is the difference between 1g, 2g, 3g etc?
BillyG the G stands for grove, there’s also F for fillet. The number is the position going from easiest to hardest. So 1 is flat, 2 is horizontal, 3 is vertical up, 4 is overhead. That is with plates and you do those positions for any type of joint like butt joints etc.
Pipe has its own positions too. 1G pipe is on a rollout wheel so you just spin and weld where you’re comfortable. 2G is vertical and you move around the pipe. 5G is a fixed position 1G so you have to bend and weld overhead at the bottom. 6G is a 5G test but fixed at a 45 degree angle so it makes it a lot hard because you’re never straight the whole time.
CommieCat Thank you!
Not to be an asshole but 3/16 is smaller than a 1/4 2:45
That's what I said. Lol
Probably meant 3/8
@@Davobeff probably more like 5/16
When is bob coming back?? Hope all is well!!
@Weld.com
Hey can you guys PLEASE do a similar series with TIG Welding Defects; since although similar, there are some unique issues that arise while using that process..?
please, stainless steel 3G vertical butt joint weld video uploaded.This vidieo very need. Thank you so much for vidieo and tips🔨🔧🔩💖💗💟
FFS bring Bob back, he can weld, and is entertaining. The first coupon , start to finish (fail)
Gloves ? Look like 50s
Hi
24.5 volts 255 wire feed for all dual shield in 045 size and all positions tried them all hotter tyres them all colder 24.5 255 cannot beat those settings ss, 308,309,316, carbon 711
24.5 and 255 are my vertical and overhead settings actually. Generally I run 28.0 and 380 but I'm welding old water intake gates that are all rusted out and have sediment deposits and water in them so we run real hot. If I hot better steel on the inside in some boxes then I'll go down to 26.5 and 330. When we fill CJP's I like to run hot too until the cover pass. Just me though. And this is with dual shielded .045
Shoot I run 22.5 and 230 with solid .45 on 14 gauge lol
english units for such small measurements is really stupid