Hello I just connect 2 4in1 Max7219 module and seem it run correctly. I see the wiring, that only Data Line connected from end of 1st module to data in 2nd module, while CS and CLK pin are connected in the middle of each module. Am I correct on this ? I wish to make one of this nice clock project.
It doesn't really matter how you connect the CS and CLK pins together, as long as they're connected on all the modules. You can "daisy chain" them, like the data line, if you wish. I did it the way I did because it keeps the wiring simpler and neater.
@@ceptimus Thank you for giving the update. However, currently my matrix display a bit flickering all the time. Appreciate if you could share any suggestion.
@@tutwirata8956 Flickering sounds like it might be power supply related. If you're powering from a Wemos D1, use the 3.3V to power the display chips, not the 5V. If you have access to an oscilloscope, try monitoring the power supply to the display. As an experiment, you could disconnect some of the display modules, and see if that stops the remaining ones flickering. You could also try supplying more current to the microcontroller board, via a better quality USB lead, or the barrel jack connector (if present).
Hello, as much as I want to implement this project, I really can't afford 8 matrixes. I just want to ask if is it possible for a 4in1 matrix to display message at the same time, there will be a switch where it can display clock instead of the message or memo? ireally need help with this huhuhu I really am hoping for a response :) Thanks
I already have a code with the webpage for the scrolling text only but i want to add an option where i can make it into a clock using a button on the web page
@Steve Hartman. I just downloaded both the sketch zip and the STL files zip. They're both pretty small 8.6kB and 72.3kB respectively. Can you please try again? Maybe it was just a temporary outage of my Website host. Please let me know if it's still not working and I'll investigate further. By the way, I modified my display now not to do the 'memo' thing, and instead it shows local temperature and scrolling weather information from one of those on-line weather services (free). I find that more useful. I think I made a video about it, but I'll go check now. If I never did, I ought to add that to my list of things to do.
@@ceptimus for some reason it wont work on my windows desktop running chrome, the link goes to youtube redirect and nothing happens. but i just tried it from my iphone and it loaded into chrome and asked me to download, and i was able to grab the zip file and store it, and send it to myself from the phone. thank you for getting back to me!
@@SteveHartmanVideos It might just be that the download links had the old http: prefix and not the secure socket layer https: even though my website does have an SSL certificate. I've edited the 's's in to the links now, and I'll try it myself, next time I'm on Windows, (if I remember!) I'm on Linux Mint at the moment, and using the FireFox browser - that seems to work okay with both prefixes.
Total newbie here: How would you like to give me some help with this project? I think I have the right libraries downloaded into Arduino IDE - ESP8266WiFi and Webserver... Don't know ip of wemos D1 I have 8 - 4x1 max7219' s I have Wemos D1 - I have all the parts 3D printed - but being a total noob I am confused about pinouts etc... Which wire goes where? Some step X step would be nice for a Wemos D1 Dummy My boards say Wemos D1 R1 in the board manager - is that the right one? Totally confused as to what wire goes where accept + and - Any help would be great! Thanks if you have time...
You set up the IP address for your Wemos in the sketch - it's at line 56, named staticIP. Make sure it's in the same subnet as your WiFi router (usually they're at 192.168.1.xxx) The chip select line for all the displays (CS) connect to D8. The clock line for all the displays (CLK) connect to D13/SCK. The DIN pin on the "first" display connects to D11/MOSI. Then you connect the DOUT pin of the first display to the DIN pin of the second - and so on: each display's DOUT pin connects to the DIN pin of the next display. The last display in the chain, you can leave its DOUT pin unconnected. Best to start with just one display module - you won't see the entire display, but you should see enough to prove that it's working. The way mine is wired up, the display that's connected to the Wemos is the one on the right (when viewing the display on its front (viewing) side. Once you can see something happening on the first display module, you can add the others, one at a time till you see the whole thing working. Power down the displays (and Wemos) while connecting up each additional module - the sketch sends some configuration data to the display modules when it starts up, so if you hot-plug them (with power connected) they most likely won't work. Let me know if that's not clear, and I'll try to help.
@@ceptimus Thank You very much! I was close / it was all about wires being in right spot. I have first row working - going to solder second now and see if good. If so I will finish tomorrow. Got web working also - again thank for you help. By the way / Great project!
@@ceptimus thank you so much - i got it all together and thought it was working fine… Nope constant dead squares after working fine - letters missing - 1 or 2 letters get bright out of nowhere - forget about scrolling text - only half works - and a bunch of other things - I checked all my solder joints etc…. Messed around with it for couple hours and was about to give up just before I watched you video again and caught this time that you mention 3.3v instead of 5v. Wow! Amazing! Everything works perfect on 3.3v /. I’m a happy camper now… You mention resistors? Needed? If so can you tell me the specifics? And lastly is there a way to change some code to have 12hr mode instead if 24? Would be cool to have temperature displayed on a line also - the coding part is over my head tho. Again THANK YOU for taking the time to help me. Stay safe!
@@larryfoss4776 If yours is working okay without resistors, then you don't need them. If it sometimes doesn't power up correctly when you switch it on, then adding one or more resistors might improve things. Because all the CS (chip select) pins are connected together, you only really need one resistor, but I fitted a resistor to each module, when I was testing them independently before connecting them all together. The resistor or resistors connect from the VCC line (3.3 V) to the CS pin. The value isn't important - it's just a pull-up resistor that holds the CS line high until the microcontroller pulls it low. You can use any resistors from about 4k7 up to about 100k. If you don't already have any resistors lying around, and you want to buy one/them to fit, then 10k would be a good choice. Changing to 12hr mode instead of 24hr, you just need to alter the format specifier in the strftime() function in loop() that specifies the time format. It's at about line number 236 of the main sketch. The unmodified line reads: strftime(bufr, 30, "%T %Z", localtime(&now)); The %T formats the time as HH:MM:SS (in 24-hour format) and the %Z prints your current time zone and daylight saving time indication. To just change to 12-hour instead of 24-hour without altering anything else, change the line to: strftime(bufr, 30, "%I:%M:%S %Z", localtime(&now)); The %I (that's a capital letter i) prints the hour in 12-hour format, %M is the minutes, and %S the seconds. If you want to add an AM or PM indicator, it makes the line too long to fit without scrolling, so you can either leave out the seconds or the time zone: strftime(bufr, 30, "%I:%M:%S %p", localtime(&now)); // 12-hour format with AM / PM but no time zone strftime(bufr, 30, "%I:%M %p %Z", localtime(&now)); // 12-hour format with AM / PM and time zone, but no seconds. Note that it's a lower case p, although the other format specifier letters are upper case. What sort of temperature sensor would you like to use? The DS18B20, which looks like a transistor, might be a good choice - you could just shove it into three adjacent pin-holes on the Wemos (with an appropriate sketch). Would you want Celsius or Farhenheit? Up on one of the top two lines of text (saving some characters by reformatting the date or time? Or allowing one of the lines to scroll? Or putting the temperature on, say the beginning of the third row? Let me know what you'd like, and I'll make an updated sketch and TH-cam video demonstrating it.
@@ceptimus Wow! Thanks again for info! I figured out just putting in a %r gave me about what I wanted - it changed to am instead of dst.,, I still have double digit hours tho - if single I wish no zero was there. Maybe ill try some of what you just sent - see how that works for me… Yes Temperature or whatever weather info. Would be super. I am definitely FAHRENHEIT lol - to old to amend my ways. Since we are connected maybe indoor and outdoor temp.? That would be awesome. And whatever sensor you think best I will buy. As long as i can get Fahrenheit. I have some dht11’s and ??? Have to look - but whichever you think best - let me know and I’ll get it. Again thank you do much helping with my new found hobby.
Can you give me a diagram of connecting the matrices to each other?
Hello I just connect 2 4in1 Max7219 module and seem it run correctly. I see the wiring, that only Data Line connected from end of 1st module to data in 2nd module, while CS and CLK pin are connected in the middle of each module. Am I correct on this ? I wish to make one of this nice clock project.
It doesn't really matter how you connect the CS and CLK pins together, as long as they're connected on all the modules. You can "daisy chain" them, like the data line, if you wish. I did it the way I did because it keeps the wiring simpler and neater.
@@ceptimus Thank you for giving the update. However, currently my matrix display a bit flickering all the time. Appreciate if you could share any suggestion.
@@tutwirata8956 Flickering sounds like it might be power supply related. If you're powering from a Wemos D1, use the 3.3V to power the display chips, not the 5V. If you have access to an oscilloscope, try monitoring the power supply to the display. As an experiment, you could disconnect some of the display modules, and see if that stops the remaining ones flickering. You could also try supplying more current to the microcontroller board, via a better quality USB lead, or the barrel jack connector (if present).
@@ceptimus Yes flickering display is no longer appear, i plug in vcc max7219 from 3.3v of the wemos. Thank you for the guidance.
Hello, as much as I want to implement this project, I really can't afford 8 matrixes. I just want to ask if is it possible for a 4in1 matrix to display message at the same time, there will be a switch where it can display clock instead of the message or memo? ireally need help with this huhuhu
I really am hoping for a response :) Thanks
I already have a code with the webpage for the scrolling text only but i want to add an option where i can make it into a clock using a button on the web page
the sketch zip download is not working, can you repost it?
@Steve Hartman. I just downloaded both the sketch zip and the STL files zip. They're both pretty small 8.6kB and 72.3kB respectively. Can you please try again? Maybe it was just a temporary outage of my Website host. Please let me know if it's still not working and I'll investigate further. By the way, I modified my display now not to do the 'memo' thing, and instead it shows local temperature and scrolling weather information from one of those on-line weather services (free). I find that more useful. I think I made a video about it, but I'll go check now. If I never did, I ought to add that to my list of things to do.
@@ceptimus for some reason it wont work on my windows desktop running chrome, the link goes to youtube redirect and nothing happens. but i just tried it from my iphone and it loaded into chrome and asked me to download, and i was able to grab the zip file and store it, and send it to myself from the phone. thank you for getting back to me!
@@SteveHartmanVideos It might just be that the download links had the old http: prefix and not the secure socket layer https: even though my website does have an SSL certificate. I've edited the 's's in to the links now, and I'll try it myself, next time I'm on Windows, (if I remember!) I'm on Linux Mint at the moment, and using the FireFox browser - that seems to work okay with both prefixes.
Total newbie here: How would you like to give me some help with this project? I think I have the right libraries downloaded into Arduino IDE - ESP8266WiFi and Webserver... Don't know ip of wemos D1 I have 8 - 4x1 max7219' s
I have Wemos D1 - I have all the parts 3D printed - but being a total noob I am confused about pinouts etc... Which wire goes where? Some step X step would be nice for a Wemos D1 Dummy
My boards say Wemos D1 R1 in the board manager - is that the right one?
Totally confused as to what wire goes where accept + and - Any help would be great! Thanks if you have time...
You set up the IP address for your Wemos in the sketch - it's at line 56, named staticIP. Make sure it's in the same subnet as your WiFi router (usually they're at 192.168.1.xxx)
The chip select line for all the displays (CS) connect to D8.
The clock line for all the displays (CLK) connect to D13/SCK.
The DIN pin on the "first" display connects to D11/MOSI. Then you connect the DOUT pin of the first display to the DIN pin of the second - and so on: each display's DOUT pin connects to the DIN pin of the next display. The last display in the chain, you can leave its DOUT pin unconnected.
Best to start with just one display module - you won't see the entire display, but you should see enough to prove that it's working. The way mine is wired up, the display that's connected to the Wemos is the one on the right (when viewing the display on its front (viewing) side.
Once you can see something happening on the first display module, you can add the others, one at a time till you see the whole thing working.
Power down the displays (and Wemos) while connecting up each additional module - the sketch sends some configuration data to the display modules when it starts up, so if you hot-plug them (with power connected) they most likely won't work.
Let me know if that's not clear, and I'll try to help.
@@ceptimus Thank You very much! I was close / it was all about wires being in right spot. I have first row working - going to solder second now and see if good. If so I will finish tomorrow. Got web working also - again thank for you help.
By the way / Great project!
@@ceptimus thank you so much - i got it all together and thought it was working fine…
Nope constant dead squares after working fine - letters missing - 1 or 2 letters get bright out of nowhere - forget about scrolling text - only half works - and a bunch of other things - I checked all my solder joints etc…. Messed around with it for couple hours and was about to give up just before I watched you video again and caught this time that you mention 3.3v instead of 5v. Wow! Amazing! Everything works perfect on 3.3v /. I’m a happy camper now…
You mention resistors? Needed? If so can you tell me the specifics?
And lastly is there a way to change some code to have 12hr mode instead if 24?
Would be cool to have temperature displayed on a line also - the coding part is over my head tho.
Again THANK YOU for taking the time to help me. Stay safe!
@@larryfoss4776 If yours is working okay without resistors, then you don't need them. If it sometimes doesn't power up correctly when you switch it on, then adding one or more resistors might improve things. Because all the CS (chip select) pins are connected together, you only really need one resistor, but I fitted a resistor to each module, when I was testing them independently before connecting them all together. The resistor or resistors connect from the VCC line (3.3 V) to the CS pin. The value isn't important - it's just a pull-up resistor that holds the CS line high until the microcontroller pulls it low. You can use any resistors from about 4k7 up to about 100k. If you don't already have any resistors lying around, and you want to buy one/them to fit, then 10k would be a good choice.
Changing to 12hr mode instead of 24hr, you just need to alter the format specifier in the strftime() function in loop() that specifies the time format. It's at about line number 236 of the main sketch.
The unmodified line reads: strftime(bufr, 30, "%T %Z", localtime(&now));
The %T formats the time as HH:MM:SS (in 24-hour format) and the %Z prints your current time zone and daylight saving time indication.
To just change to 12-hour instead of 24-hour without altering anything else, change the line to: strftime(bufr, 30, "%I:%M:%S %Z", localtime(&now));
The %I (that's a capital letter i) prints the hour in 12-hour format, %M is the minutes, and %S the seconds.
If you want to add an AM or PM indicator, it makes the line too long to fit without scrolling, so you can either leave out the seconds or the time zone:
strftime(bufr, 30, "%I:%M:%S %p", localtime(&now)); // 12-hour format with AM / PM but no time zone
strftime(bufr, 30, "%I:%M %p %Z", localtime(&now)); // 12-hour format with AM / PM and time zone, but no seconds.
Note that it's a lower case p, although the other format specifier letters are upper case.
What sort of temperature sensor would you like to use? The DS18B20, which looks like a transistor, might be a good choice - you could just shove it into three adjacent pin-holes on the Wemos (with an appropriate sketch). Would you want Celsius or Farhenheit? Up on one of the top two lines of text (saving some characters by reformatting the date or time? Or allowing one of the lines to scroll? Or putting the temperature on, say the beginning of the third row? Let me know what you'd like, and I'll make an updated sketch and TH-cam video demonstrating it.
@@ceptimus Wow! Thanks again for info! I figured out just putting in a %r gave me about what I wanted - it changed to am instead of dst.,, I still have double digit hours tho - if single I wish no zero was there.
Maybe ill try some of what you just sent - see how that works for me…
Yes Temperature or whatever weather info. Would be super.
I am definitely FAHRENHEIT lol - to old to amend my ways. Since we are connected maybe indoor and outdoor temp.? That would be awesome. And whatever sensor you think best I will buy. As long as i can get Fahrenheit.
I have some dht11’s and ??? Have to look - but whichever you think best - let me know and I’ll get it.
Again thank you do much helping with my new found hobby.
Cool