I have been running these on all my busses and they are pretty consistent. You need to make sure it is really well grounded. and it is not totally accurate just like most of the original ones I have run were. But you can know how much gas is in the tank to an extent which is better than no gauge. One of my busses has a VDO after market gauge behind the grills and it is Perfectly accurate.
The purpose of the tube style senders is to dampen oscillations from fuel sloshing. Fuel is metered in and out of the tube more slowly through small holes. Bus and Ghias use Balance Coil fuel gauges, which respond instantly to sender level changes (twitchy fuel level needle). Beetles use a thermal type fuel gauge which electrically dampen oscillations and can use the toilet bowl float style sender. They are completely interchangeable and I have found that the tube style sender does not dampen the oscillations very much at all.
It's okay, Ben, it was -30F at my place this morning, so don't feel bad. But, I'm changing my brakes in a nice warm garage ("garridge") Lol ! Cheers from Alaska.
You might be able to measure resistance of original sending unit, empty, mid and full. Then get a variable resistor and adjust til reading matches . Depending if resistance is lower or higher on the new sending unit you would have to put variable resistor in series or parallel respectfully. Just a thought...
@@Mikefngarage By placing a resistor in parallel it will decrease the resistance. Example if you have two 10 ohm resistors in parallel the resistance becomes 5 ohms.
Had a new tractor with a gauge that was out and the mechanic altered the gauge with resistors. The only problem is that you can calabrate it for full or calabrate it for empty, bit not both.
the - at the tank is not a full - becouse of the tank is in straps may be an extra - to one of the bolts of the sending unit gives you a higher reading at full
Being an electronics guy, I guess I want to put a meter on it and measure the resistance in each sending unit. Seems it should be the same resistance for each one, but I bet it isn't. The factory bus versions look very flimsy to me, so no wonder they fail. So what you want to know is how much resistance does it have when the float is at the bottom and how much resistance when its at the top? You don't need to put gas in it to find that out. Once you know what the correct resistance is for the gauge to read empty or full, you can figure out what the sending unit resistance should be. I bet all of these senders have the wrong resistance values to make the gauge work correctly.
The problem is when your at full ground the gauge did not go to full.....So that was wrong and when your at full empty it still has some fuel left. Really I just fill up just after I hit the woods. Still have 2 or 3 gallons of fuel in there but it is pretty good. At least good enough. you probably dont want to go much closer than that anyway. These old busses have really no range.
Add a later model speedometer with the integrated factory gas gauge from a 68 and up Beetle. Everything will match up as far as indicator and illumination bulbs. You will need to add a key on power wire to feed the voltage stabilizer that powers the gauge up. Then add a 1968 up electric sending unit to the tank. Take a dash vent from a 68 up Beetle and install it where the mechanical gas gauge used to be. You will love the accuracy and lack of bouncing of the indicator needle.
So, Mike, what does a knucklehead like me do with a '58 bus with a tiny gas tank with NO guage do??? I'm just gonna always carry a jug of gas and never pass up a gas station...(and no, I'm not going to drill a hole in my pristine dash!)
I put one behind the grills on my 61 westfalia and put a later model tank in it. Put a aftermarket vdo behind the grills on the dash. Video on the channel. works great. Here it is check it outth-cam.com/video/v3azZlMyEZI/w-d-xo.html
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I have been running these on all my busses and they are pretty consistent. You need to make sure it is really well grounded. and it is not totally accurate just like most of the original ones I have run were. But you can know how much gas is in the tank to an extent which is better than no gauge. One of my busses has a VDO after market gauge behind the grills and it is Perfectly accurate.
will be driving this for a week or so to test the gauge. Should work fine. We have done this on Ghia and it works well too.
Yep, not surprising it works. I put in late 60's bus heads on my 65 bug. Just needed to shim up the valve rockers to get clearance👍
Thanks for sharing
Looks like a good fix. Keep us updated.
Will do!
Great tip I have a 65 that needs a sending unit in the mean time I am using a 1/4 x "4' long wooden dowel old school but works
The purpose of the tube style senders is to dampen oscillations from fuel sloshing. Fuel is metered in and out of the tube more slowly through small holes. Bus and Ghias use Balance Coil fuel gauges, which respond instantly to sender level changes (twitchy fuel level needle). Beetles use a thermal type fuel gauge which electrically dampen oscillations and can use the toilet bowl float style sender. They are completely interchangeable and I have found that the tube style sender does not dampen the oscillations very much at all.
Just been outside to do my brakes on my bus, then got caught in a torrential hail and snow storm! I’m still California dreamin’
Ben 🇬🇧
Yikes hope your under a awning or something. those things can be dangerous.
It's okay, Ben, it was -30F at my place this morning, so don't feel bad. But, I'm changing my brakes in a nice warm garage ("garridge")
Lol ! Cheers from Alaska.
I Am now I feel like a fraud 😂 only 20f here
You might be able to measure resistance of original sending unit, empty, mid and full. Then get a variable resistor and adjust til reading matches . Depending if resistance is lower or higher on the new sending unit you would have to put variable resistor in series or parallel respectfully. Just a thought...
the problem is too much resistance on both senders. for the WW gauge.
@@Mikefngarage By placing a resistor in parallel it will decrease the resistance. Example if you have two 10 ohm resistors in parallel the resistance becomes 5 ohms.
Had a new tractor with a gauge that was out and the mechanic altered the gauge with resistors. The only problem is that you can calabrate it for full or calabrate it for empty, bit not both.
@@Paulman50 That true it will only shift the span of the sending unit. I would prefer the empty state to be correct rather than the full state.
Can you use this sender with a late bay tank? I am going to add a late bay tank to my splitty for the extra gallons of gas.
Do I need to bend the fuel sender on my 67 bus with the correct tank. I think you never explicitly said it was a direct fit. 🙂
Good tip again mike !! Splitty coming on well . Keep vids coming sir
Thanks! Will do!
the - at the tank is not a full - becouse of the tank is in straps may be an extra - to one of the bolts of the sending unit gives you a higher reading at full
Any update on the bug sender? I assume 68 and newer bug? Have motor out of the bus and I'd love to get my gauge to work
yea working ok
I don't think I've ever seen a gas gauge in a van that was accurate.
bmh67wa or even working 😂
Being an electronics guy, I guess I want to put a meter on it and measure the resistance in each sending unit. Seems it should be the same resistance for each one, but I bet it isn't. The factory bus versions look very flimsy to me, so no wonder they fail. So what you want to know is how much resistance does it have when the float is at the bottom and how much resistance when its at the top? You don't need to put gas in it to find that out. Once you know what the correct resistance is for the gauge to read empty or full, you can figure out what the sending unit resistance should be. I bet all of these senders have the wrong resistance values to make the gauge work correctly.
The problem is when your at full ground the gauge did not go to full.....So that was wrong and when your at full empty it still has some fuel left. Really I just fill up just after I hit the woods. Still have 2 or 3 gallons of fuel in there but it is pretty good. At least good enough. you probably dont want to go much closer than that anyway. These old busses have really no range.
How do I make my 67 beetle electric fuel sending to gauge
Add a later model speedometer with the integrated factory gas gauge from a 68 and up Beetle. Everything will match up as far as indicator and illumination bulbs. You will need to add a key on power wire to feed the voltage stabilizer that powers the gauge up. Then add a 1968 up electric sending unit to the tank. Take a dash vent from a 68 up Beetle and install it where the mechanical gas gauge used to be. You will love the accuracy and lack of bouncing of the indicator needle.
So, Mike, what does a knucklehead like me do with a '58 bus with a tiny gas tank with NO guage do??? I'm just gonna always carry a jug of gas and never pass up a gas station...(and no, I'm not going to drill a hole in my pristine dash!)
I put one behind the grills on my 61 westfalia and put a later model tank in it. Put a aftermarket vdo behind the grills on the dash. Video on the channel. works great. Here it is check it outth-cam.com/video/v3azZlMyEZI/w-d-xo.html
@@Mikefngarage awesome thanks!
Rambus gauge is messed up = it is always on E ?????
see if a bug sender will work in it too. It is a bay right. I dont know if it will work in one but I think it will.
'68-'73 is "late model".....??????
late model bug and early bus have the same bolt pattern on the sender. that is what i am running now.