Guys....it's a good video. Stop arguing the toss over terminology. It's shaped like a bell. Every couple of years I strip this and change the bearings / seals etc. I always forget which way the shaft comes out. For or aft and belting the shaft the wrong way is going to be expensive. It's a good clear video which reminds us of what's going on in there. Thanks very much
Hey guys, great video by the way. Im having all kinds of issues trying to figure out if i have 1 bearing or 2. Its a 1995 dp-c with the 4.3 motor. Ive been told i have to remove the motor and ive also been told i dont have to. Any help wold be greatly appreciated.
Only the V6 and V8 bell housings that take the 14 inch flywheel have the single bearing assembly which makes the job a piece of cake........The other bell housings that take the 12 inch flywheel has two sets of bearings. I'm surprised you didn't show the removal of the bearing from the shaft.......A press comes in very handy on that one. All snap rings go in before the last seal is installed. Not sure if you have recently heard but the reason some people install that last outer seal backwards is there are some online chat forums that recommend doing so to help stop water from getting in better opposed to the conventional installation method. The trim cylinders seals are set up that way which is probably why that recommendation came up. Doesn't matter either way as replacing the bellow once it shows signs of age keeps the assembly nice and try. Once water gets in the u-joints are the first to be attacked and if those come apart due to neglect it could wipe out the bell housing.
ya hey thanks you put on a good show mine I took the snap ring out and drove out the seal undamaged (dead blow and block of wood) took a few taps don't hit it hard no corrosion in mine ya the seal numbers on yours would and bearing #'s on yours woulda been interesting sometimes those housings are savable with the bearing numbers rusted off and thanks for this video
Really appreciate your effort in making this video. I happen to come across it because I am doing the same job. Wondering if I can pull that shaft without removing the bell housing off the engine? If I pull the seals and snap rings can I just pull the shaft out?
I removed the bellhouse and swapped the 2 bearings this summer in mine, mine is a 290, so it had 1 more snap ring that this video shows which goes around the axel. So if you dont have the snap for the axel it should be possible, but It would actually be easier to just pull the engine and swap everything at once. the job is rather easy as long as you have good snap ring tools, you need Normal and inverted snap ring tool. Mine also had a grease nipple on the bellhouse which Eddie said the 290 does not have, so it might be a difference in which year they are produced. The actual bearings came out rather easy, and the motor allignment is rather easy compared to mercruiser, due to the 6 lock nuts that goes into the outdrive plate in the back. So tighten it enough to align the engine and then move the engine to your marked spots(I traced the engine mounting pos) once you tighten them down you torque the backplate into spec and you are done.
Hey Mr Eddie, I have what’s labeled as a Volvo Penta AQ 231 with a 285 out drive. It’s in a 1989 Baretta Supersport and I need to replace the drive bearings. I can’t find any information on the one that I have that lined up with what I see. It has two bearings in the bell housing instead of 1 as I’ve seen everywhere else. Do you have any information that could help me or could you point me in the right direction? Thanks.
hi great video. I have a question I have a 1991 Larson san marino 26ft boat. its got a 350 chevy engine with a Volvo Penta 290 outdrive. the gimble bearing has exploded. can the gimble bearing be replaced from the back of the boat by removing the outdrive? please let me know . thank you.
@@halfwayhousegarage2959 It depends which bellhousing you got, there's one with 2 bearings and this one in the video with just 1 bearing, the one with 2 bearings you need to take the engine out. Because the outer bearing you take out the direction against the sterndrive. The inner bearing you take out in the direction towards the engine!
The outer seal was mounted correctly and not upside down in the first place. the way it ha been fitted in this video is incorrect , if / when the bellows fail any water will go to the bearings
So can you change these without pulling out the engine and flywheel cover? Can it be accessed from the leg by pulling out the upper drive and uni joint bellow?
Good info I’m working on one now and I used the chisel by mistake so wish I’d seen this first. I’m actually making a video also..... What kind of boat are you working on? I’ve got a 1996 24 Albemarle.
fin screenname marine grease is very important, it resists moisture so it won't break down especially when that shaft is spinning at a extremely fast rate it heats up and when that happens it creates moisture that's why its important to use a hi-temp marine grease
These are nothing more than Industry Standard bearings, and can be purchased from any good bearing supplier. Double bearing PDS requires a 6026 and a 6007. Single bearing PDS requires a 6206-2RS sealed bearing. No Chinese bearings.... use US, Japanese or German, etc.
FYI.... this component is a Flywheel Cover..... ( Bellhousing in the automotive world ) Also, this is NOT a 290 Flywheel Cover! The 290 Flywheel Cover was equipped with a Double Bearing PDS, and also a grease port for lubricating these bearings in the future. The 290 Flywheel Cover will accept the GM 153 tooth flywheel and the small Volvo Penta flywheel only. The one being shown is a later model single bearing PDS Flywheel Cover that accepts the 168 tooth flywheel. Most likely from a SP-C or DP-C drive. The shaft that he shows us is a PDS.... (primary drive shaft) He is also showing a 6206 bearing, of which is an open bearing. However, this F/C is not equipped with a grease port, so a 6206-2RS sealed bearing must be used. At 3:13 into the video he shows the AFT seal. Since this Flywheel Cover does not offer a grease port, the AFT seal can be installed in the conventional direction. However, for any F/C that offers serviceable PDS bearings, the AFT seal will install in the "non-conventional" direction to ensure that it may breach excessive grease gun pressure and/or volume. Use a good high pressure bearing grease. The Marine grease is inferior for this purpose. Just a heads up and FYI for you guys .
Eddie, all due respect to you and no offense intended........ this Volvo Penta part is a "Flywheel Cover". Bellhousing is an Automotive term. The GM V-8 engine flywheel cover for the 290 stern drive dates back earlier. One change that was made would be that the AFT end PDS splines changed from course to fine. The 290 F/C will house a 153 tooth ring gear flywheel ONLY. The F/C shown in the video is a later unit (not a 290). It will house both the 153 and 168 tooth ring gear flywheel.
A 290 Volvo Penta bellhousing only has one bearing a 280-270-260 has two bearings unless you have a small diameter flywheel for the older 350 5.7 liter engines this bellhousing is for a pre Vortec and Vortec engines 1996 and up till they ended the series and came out with the SX
The later GM V-8 or V-6 flywheel cover (with the single bearing PDS) does not require engine removal. You will remove the transmission only..... not the entire stern drive. The earlier GM V-8 or V-6 flywheel cover (with the double bearing PDS) does require engine removal in order to gain access to the front of the PDS. The flywheel covers for the Ford 335 series engines will be a single bearing PDS w/ the pilot nose. Again, you will remove the transmission only for this work.
Hey Mr Eddie, I have what’s labeled as a Volvo Penta AQ 231 with a 285 out drive. It’s in a 1989 Baretta Supersport and I need to replace the drive bearings. I can’t find any information on the one that I have that lined up with what I see. It has two bearings in the bell housing instead of 1 as I’ve seen everywhere else. Do you have any information that could help me or could you point me in the right direction? Thanks.
@@RiliKickass Hey man thanks for the reply!! I finally got it figured out last summer. I used a Timkin and a NSK bearing with two Timkin seals. I used some cylindrical locking compound/retaining compound because it was a loose fit for my liking.
@@BakerHalley Ah that's great to hear! you said it was a loose fit? as in the axel actually was lose after the bearings where fitted? Or for the seal rings on either side? Cause the sealing ring in the back is supposed to be lose around the axel due to the outboard driveshaft is gonna lock into it to create a seal.
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Guys....it's a good video. Stop arguing the toss over terminology. It's shaped like a bell. Every couple of years I strip this and change the bearings / seals etc. I always forget which way the shaft comes out. For or aft and belting the shaft the wrong way is going to be expensive. It's a good clear video which reminds us of what's going on in there. Thanks very much
Great video,I’ll know what to do on my 250 bell housing now,thanks buddy 👍🏻
I have the problem now. I hope this video help me a lot. Volvo penta 280
Hey guys, great video by the way. Im having all kinds of issues trying to figure out if i have 1 bearing or 2. Its a 1995 dp-c with the 4.3 motor. Ive been told i have to remove the motor and ive also been told i dont have to. Any help wold be greatly appreciated.
Only the V6 and V8 bell housings that take the 14 inch flywheel have the single bearing assembly which makes the job a piece of cake........The other bell housings that take the 12 inch flywheel has two sets of bearings. I'm surprised you didn't show the removal of the bearing from the shaft.......A press comes in very handy on that one. All snap rings go in before the last seal is installed. Not sure if you have recently heard but the reason some people install that last outer seal backwards is there are some online chat forums that recommend doing so to help stop water from getting in better opposed to the conventional installation method. The trim cylinders seals are set up that way which is probably why that recommendation came up. Doesn't matter either way as replacing the bellow once it shows signs of age keeps the assembly nice and try. Once water gets in the u-joints are the first to be attacked and if those come apart due to neglect it could wipe out the bell housing.
Like an idiot I was filming it but my gopro shut off battery died
Question after putting new bearing is it normal to have a litttle play in the shaft
Thanks for making this video
Cool Im glad it helped, what outdrive do you have?
ya hey thanks you put on a good show mine I took the snap ring out and drove out the seal undamaged (dead blow and block of wood) took a few taps don't hit it hard no corrosion in mine ya the seal numbers on yours would and bearing #'s on yours woulda been interesting sometimes those housings are savable with the bearing numbers rusted off and thanks for this video
Really appreciate your effort in making this video. I happen to come across it because I am doing the same job. Wondering if I can pull that shaft without removing the bell housing off the engine? If I pull the seals and snap rings can I just pull the shaft out?
I removed the bellhouse and swapped the 2 bearings this summer in mine, mine is a 290, so it had 1 more snap ring that this video shows which goes around the axel.
So if you dont have the snap for the axel it should be possible, but It would actually be easier to just pull the engine and swap everything at once. the job is rather easy as long as you have good snap ring tools, you need Normal and inverted snap ring tool.
Mine also had a grease nipple on the bellhouse which Eddie said the 290 does not have, so it might be a difference in which year they are produced.
The actual bearings came out rather easy, and the motor allignment is rather easy compared to mercruiser, due to the 6 lock nuts that goes into the outdrive plate in the back. So tighten it enough to align the engine and then move the engine to your marked spots(I traced the engine mounting pos) once you tighten them down you torque the backplate into spec and you are done.
That seal was installed correctly, it was not upside down.
yes brianko , the way he has it now will allow water to go in to the shaft an bearings , if / the bellows fail
Hey Mr Eddie, I have what’s labeled as a Volvo Penta AQ 231 with a 285 out drive. It’s in a 1989 Baretta Supersport and I need to replace the drive bearings. I can’t find any information on the one that I have that lined up with what I see. It has two bearings in the bell housing instead of 1 as I’ve seen everywhere else. Do you have any information that could help me or could you point me in the right direction? Thanks.
Thanks for the info very helpful
Thanks
Thanks!
hi great video. I have a question I have a 1991 Larson san marino 26ft boat. its got a 350 chevy engine with a Volvo Penta 290 outdrive. the gimble bearing has exploded. can the gimble bearing be replaced from the back of the boat by removing the outdrive? please let me know . thank you.
Yes, it can
@@halfwayhousegarage2959 It depends which bellhousing you got, there's one with 2 bearings and this one in the video with just 1 bearing, the one with 2 bearings you need to take the engine out. Because the outer bearing you take out the direction against the sterndrive. The inner bearing you take out in the direction towards the engine!
The outer seal was mounted correctly and not upside down in the first place. the way it ha been fitted in this video is incorrect , if / when the bellows fail any water will go to the bearings
So can you change these without pulling out the engine and flywheel cover? Can it be accessed from the leg by pulling out the upper drive and uni joint bellow?
You can do the gimbal bearing with just pulling the outdrive
Good info I’m working on one now and I used the chisel by mistake so wish I’d seen this first. I’m actually making a video also.....
What kind of boat are you working on? I’ve got a 1996 24 Albemarle.
sorry for not replying back fast Im working on a 1971 Chris Craft Lancer 23'
Hi, Eddie can you replace the gimbal bearing without removing the bell housing?
Yes, you can
Solide hammer?
Thanks for sharing
Eddie do you know the size of the bearing so I can buy before dismantling?
6206-2RS Bearing 30x62x16 Sealed
Link: www.amazon.com/VXB-6206-2RS-Bearing-30x62x16-Sealed/dp/B002BBIXXM
Marine grease is not necessary (it wont hurt) being the bellhousing does not get wet. Well at least it shouldn't get wet.
fin screenname marine grease is very important, it resists moisture so it won't break down especially when that shaft is spinning at a extremely fast rate it heats up and when that happens it creates moisture that's why its important to use a hi-temp marine grease
High temp marine grease is the best it doesn't break down
do you know the kit bearing part number?
These are nothing more than Industry Standard bearings, and can be purchased from any good bearing supplier.
Double bearing PDS requires a 6026 and a 6007.
Single bearing PDS requires a 6206-2RS sealed bearing.
No Chinese bearings.... use US, Japanese or German, etc.
How do you remove the red big housing from the engine... mines it’s stuck
Same boat right now. Did you ever figure it out? Rust is my problem I think.
@@chrisgillispie89 i had to take the whole engine out with the housing and then removed all the snap ring with special long pliers
Does anyone have the bearing part number for a 280 with 12" flywheel and two bearings?
Go to marineparts.com
FYI.... this component is a Flywheel Cover..... ( Bellhousing in the automotive world )
Also, this is NOT a 290 Flywheel Cover! The 290 Flywheel Cover was equipped with a Double Bearing PDS, and also a grease port for lubricating these bearings in the future. The 290 Flywheel Cover will accept the
GM 153 tooth flywheel and the small Volvo Penta flywheel only.
The one being shown is a later model single bearing PDS Flywheel Cover that accepts the 168 tooth flywheel. Most likely from a SP-C or DP-C drive.
The shaft that he shows us is a PDS.... (primary drive shaft)
He is also showing a 6206 bearing, of which is an open bearing.
However, this F/C is not equipped with a grease port, so a 6206-2RS sealed bearing must be used.
At 3:13 into the video he shows the AFT seal. Since this Flywheel Cover does not offer a grease port, the AFT seal can be installed in the conventional direction.
However, for any F/C that offers serviceable PDS bearings, the AFT seal will install in the "non-conventional" direction to ensure that it may breach excessive grease gun pressure and/or volume.
Use a good high pressure bearing grease. The Marine grease is inferior for this purpose.
Just a heads up and FYI for you guys .
290 penta bell housing 14" is a single bearing if its a 12" then it has 2 bearings this was the last year of this bell housing, very hard to find
Eddie, all due respect to you and no offense intended........ this Volvo Penta part is a "Flywheel Cover". Bellhousing is an Automotive term. The GM V-8 engine flywheel cover for the 290 stern drive dates back earlier. One change that was made would be that the AFT end PDS splines changed from course to fine.
The 290 F/C will house a 153 tooth ring gear flywheel ONLY.
The F/C shown in the video is a later unit (not a 290). It will house both the 153 and 168 tooth ring gear flywheel.
A 290 Volvo Penta bellhousing only has one bearing a 280-270-260 has two bearings unless you have a small diameter flywheel for the older 350 5.7 liter engines this bellhousing is for a pre Vortec and Vortec engines 1996 and up till they ended the series and came out with the SX
That is high temperature Marine grease not just regular Marine Grease
You have to pull the engine out to get that off you cannot do it with the engine in and you cannot do it with the outdrive on it all has to come off
The later GM V-8 or V-6 flywheel cover (with the single bearing PDS) does not require engine removal.
You will remove the transmission only..... not the entire stern drive.
The earlier GM V-8 or V-6 flywheel cover (with the double bearing PDS) does require engine removal in order to gain access to the front of the PDS.
The flywheel covers for the Ford 335 series engines will be a single bearing PDS w/ the pilot nose.
Again, you will remove the transmission only for this work.
Hey Mr Eddie, I have what’s labeled as a Volvo Penta AQ 231 with a 285 out drive. It’s in a 1989 Baretta Supersport and I need to replace the drive bearings. I can’t find any information on the one that I have that lined up with what I see. It has two bearings in the bell housing instead of 1 as I’ve seen everywhere else. Do you have any information that could help me or could you point me in the right direction? Thanks.
tag me if your still around, I can help you with it. I replaced my 2x bearings this summer :)
@@RiliKickass Hey man thanks for the reply!! I finally got it figured out last summer. I used a Timkin and a NSK bearing with two Timkin seals. I used some cylindrical locking compound/retaining compound because it was a loose fit for my liking.
@@BakerHalley Ah that's great to hear! you said it was a loose fit? as in the axel actually was lose after the bearings where fitted? Or for the seal rings on either side? Cause the sealing ring in the back is supposed to be lose around the axel due to the outboard driveshaft is gonna lock into it to create a seal.
@@RiliKickass the bearings were loose in the bell housing.