Spray Foam To Soundproof a Door - Does It Actually Works?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.พ. 2021
- In this video, I will be using gap filler cans of spray foam insulation to soundproof a door. Instead of buying a solid core door, Let's try spray foam inside a hollow core door for Soundproofing using a Decibel Meter!
I've said many times that spray foam insulation is not the best for soundproofing a wall but maybe it could work inside a door!
Products I used in this video. All links are from Amazon and Home Depot to give you better and more accurate buying options.
1. Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant
Amazon 20 oz- amzn.to/3aqkcW1
Home Depot 16 oz - homedepot.sjv.io/3VNdr
2. Ratcheting Screw Driver Set (Great Deal!)
Amazon - amzn.to/3reZsHt
Home Depot - homedepot.sjv.io/7WNJY
3. Drill - 50% off
Amazon - amzn.to/2MuEkOT
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Music credit - Bensound.com
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This works reasonably well, IF you actually fill the door, which you didn't even pretend to do. First off, you have to shake the can vigorously for at least 60 seconds. While it's possible that he did this off camera, the runny liquid that comes out while he fumbled with the straw suggests otherwise. Second, the foam will not fall to the bottom; it will stick to the first surface it touches, which in this case is the inside of the door. If you cut this door open, you will see two globs of spray foam, right around the holes that were drilled. To fill a door, drill holes every 12 inches along both edges of the door, and fill them from the bottom up. Tape up each hole after you're done with it, to keep the foam from coming out. You will have gone through several cans of foam by the time you're done.
100% this..open the door up! Just take the top or bottom edge off you'd have seen how empty your door is and if the door is honeycomb cardboard filled or strips of wood/board as the structure/filling in order to find where the hollow patches are in your door.
A max expansion can could fill 2 doors w leftovers or you could use actual soundproofing foam
Yet another low effort, nonsense video from Soundproof Guide.
Most "Hollow core Doors" are not hollow. They have a cardboard honeycomb like structure in them. What I have done in the past is to take a oscillating saw and cut the bottom of the door out. Underneath where you can see it. The piece that is about 1 1/4 inches wide and about 28 inches long. Take your time so you dont mess it up. then pull out the cardboard and shake the shat out of the spray foam, attach a vinyl tube about 5 feet long and slightly larger than the end of the straw, tape the tube to a mop handel so you know it is at the top of the door, and start filling the cavity. Pull it down to the bottom slowly , then move the hose over about 8 -10 inches and insert it again. Repeat until the door is full. I used 2 cans of window spray foam. Cut out some of the foam from the bottom so you can glue the wooden piece you took out back in. Is seems to work Ok.
It sounds like you took your time to do a good job. Did you notice a big enough difference with the amount of sound getting through?
Guess we will never know!
What helps is that you really need to drill more holes.
Three on each of the two side edges of the door.
Two in the middle, (About three feet apart) on just one side of the door.
Then finally two on the top of the door.
Start filling the bottom holes first.
Sealing the completed ones with some masking tape.
Working your way up the door until you reach the top.
You will use a few cans, probably between two to four cans, depending on the thickness of the door.
But don't be afraid to use more if needed and do a thorough job.
After all, as they say, "If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing well."
You needed to put a second hole in the door to vent the exhaust gas from the reacting foam and the displaced air. This will allow the foam to expand to its fullest, must effective state, and fill all the corners. You could easily have a puddle of unexpanded material inside.
yes! gotta do in sections and let fully expand.
The foam if still probably trying to cure inside, learned this the hard way emptying a full can in the cars rusted quarter panel and not sealing the hole properly, had foam oozing out for like a week!!!
This is why he can fit so many cans lol
Can that meter locate the exact location source of noise? Need one to pin point where the street noise coming thru my window.thanks for the video
What can i buy for door isolation like from amazon ? I saw blanket
There are actually many issues with doing this, from over stuffing the hollow cores and busting your door seems, to making the door heavy and sag, there is also the issue most hollow core doors are not a big empty space in the center like people think, it's hollow channels, the inside is split into sections that way the door doesn't just flex or bow in if pushed on, someone knocks you don't punch a hole in it, the only way to know which way the cores go, is either if it's given with the door, if you can find the manufacture plans for it, or rip a whole side off the door
Lol too heavy? Really? An entire can doesn’t even weigh a lb, including the cab itself. Do you honestly believe the small amount of FOAM inside of a hollow door, will make any difference in weight, we all? Really tho?
@@jamesbizs Chill
@@jamesbizs
Lol right?
Too heavy? Do you think solid core doors weigh less? If your door sags from a few extra pounds, it needed to be reset anyway.
U got a wild imagination 😂
Really he should wear safety glasses dealing with construction foam too!! If you think it’s hard to get off of your hands, imagine it being stuck to your eyelids. I cringed pretty hard when I saw how he rotated the straw toward his face while tapping that thing. This stuff is no joke once it begins to harden… and you’re not gonna be able to use acetone near your eyeball. I got a microscopic piece of fiberglass in my eye a few months ago, it was agonizing; I can’t imagine how bad foam glue would be.
Great point! Thanks for sharing.
This is a great concept for a video, but I feel it was not fully actualized. Would love to see you take another shot at it. Maybe even open up the door from this video and see how full the door was in the end. I am currently having an issue where the hollow aluminum frames of my double glazed windows seem to be letting through a lot of sound. I am very interested in filling them, but I am not sure how, or with what. I have seen some people warn that normal expanding foam can expand too much and cause doors or frames to explode, so you want to use a mid, or low-expanding foam. But I'm also interested in what would happen if I stuffed the frames with rockwool, sand, etc. Thanks for making these videos
The door sounds firm when it's closed with foam.
And there isn't any accounting that your HVAC wasn't blowing in the background, and that Db is a order of magnitude... Dropping from say 100 to 95 is only a small amount, but huge in sound
when you applied the foam you hit the jet like crazy, it's placed from time to time, because then it doesn't cure well, it stays solid and takes a long time to dry, it doesn't stay aerated either. You have to give expansion time.
And you did not seal the counter frames, the wall depends on your country if it is solid brick, hollow, durlock or whatever they call it, but the frame lets sound through if it is not soundproofed too, you also need rubber gaskets.
You can absolutely hear a difference between when you shut the door the first time and you shut the door after filling. It no longer sounds hollow.
The part I was hoping to see is a door knock test. When someone knocks on my hollow bedroom door it scares the hell out of me and I would like to is reduce the amount of noise transmitted through knocking. Does this procedure help that in any way?
Wont the door itself expand/bulge in certain parts? I also assume it doesnt distribute uniformly because the hollow core doors typically have some honeycomb structure built in and block the foam from getting through the entire structure.
Some has the honeycomb but a lot of them do not. And expanding uniformly is almost impossible.
I did this to a pocket door and it bulged out so bad I couldn't get it back into the wall. I had to replace with a solid wood door.
@@scottmartinezguitarandbass When they fill doors in the factory the door is inside a large press that stops them from bowing out. They take a long nozzle and start filling from one end and fill the door as they pull the long metal nozzle out of the door. There isn't anything in the interior besides foam.
Good to know. Thanks
Did the door sound different on closing? I get this wouldn't reduce the noise coming through the door and a door sweep might be better, but I was considering this technique to just make the door sound more solid on closing. When I close my hollow doors, there is an echo of the latch catching and in general vibrates like a drum. Some doors worse than others. May be the cheap handle, but wondered if this would help.
Yes it helps. I have double folding doors for my washer and dryer room that is only big enough for the units. I have been hesitant to fill the cheap hollow doors with foam for years because of people making videos like this. I pulled the trigger and drilled 12 holes in the back of each panel door (I have 4 doors total)
I used 1 can per door and used the 1" gap foam. Weight of the door did not change much at all. But the sound reduction, and the overall sturdyness of the door made it 100% worth the effort. Took me 15 mins to pull door, drill holes, and spray foam. Then wait 1 hour and trim foam coming out of holes with razor blade then I used spackle to cover imperfections.
My door was so cheap that it did not have the honeycomb cardboard fill. You would have to remove the honeycomb if you have it before starting which would make this task much more involved.
@@skydemon02 Thanks! This is great to know. Probably a better application as you don't see the inside of the door. How would you feel about seeing those holes on the outside?
@@StephenProbert I drilled my holes on the back of the doors where the are never seen when folded together. Personally I would not have drilled holes in the front of my doors because they would be glaringly obvious. However, if you drilled in perfect pattern areas and know how to spackle, sand, and paint then I could see it being done.
I used flex seal around the knob/latch area not thru the whole door
Lots of doors have cardboard stiffeners inside, spraying straight in will not fill the multiple voids, as others have said you will probably cause the door to swell. Even if you did not have a stiffener spraying into a hole and hoping it fills the door is really just silly. Did you calculate how much foam you would need? Did you determine the expansion and curing rate of the foam to ensure it expands upwards and does not just get half way up leaving a void in the middle. did you wait at least 24 hours for the foam to expand to its fullest before testing? I haven't done this (yet) but the only way to even consider doing it is peeling a panel off the door to understand the construction and to ensure you have full coverage. After all that, most foams are simply too light to do more than dampen the sound. I would consider filling the door with a sound absorbing panel. heavy rubber flooring tiles would do a much better job as long as they were secured correctly inside the door with a good glue.
Have you done it? Did it work well?
No it doesn't work. I drilled holes on my door up both sides 1 foot apart. I used foam meant for smaller gaps. By the time the foam quit expanding the middle section looked 9 mos pregnant back and front. The door panels bowed until they popped. I bought a solid core pine door.
Most of these "hacks" are from Watanabe bedroom "producers" who don't understand basic physics. Sealing all air gaps as you said is an excellent start. But, there is no replacement for mass! Mass slows down the energy transfer, and the smart choice here is either a solid core quality wood door, or even a steel door. Then, add mass loaded vinyl to increase the mass even more. Mount the door using isolating neoprene underlying gasket material beneath the hinges at the door frame and door itself. Then, you can finally see results
I subscribed and clicked like because you went through all that work to teach something of interest to me.
I filled my door with dry sand it worked very well, as long as you add hinges for the extra weight.
I heard of that technique in Studio Design class years ago and always wanted to try it
@@BreeceMatarazzo it works better than just a hollow core door, but you may need to beef up the hinges and make sure the door frame and structure can take the extra weight.
@@tyremanguitars definitely. One thing I'm concerned about is that the material these doors are made with seem really flimsy. By filling it with sand, would the door end up bellying out at all? Or does it maintain it's regular shape?
@@BreeceMatarazzo There is a good plan in rod gervais' book home recording studio build it like the pros, which is a modified firedoor, I have made his door and it is excellent, that's what I would recommend instead of filling it a hollowcore door with sand.
I was thinking about using absorbing material, like the stuff you use to soak up oils spills in the garage... Hoping to get sound deadening without the weight of sand as it's about a third of the weight. What do you think?
Thanks for the video. I am filling a hollow core door with sika 212 grout. Hopefully that works!
Awesome! Let us all know how it works out for you! 😊
Did it work?
@@nicholas8341 Almost NOBODY ever is considerate enough to do a follow-up once they make a comment that is utterly pointless without doing such!
@@ihatesignupsgrrrrrrr Most likely, it didn't work. lol
The approximate volume of a hollow core door is 40 litres, a bag (20kg) of sika fills 10 litres, so you need about 4 bags, or approx 80kg (dried) of sika, So you're adding >80kg to a door designed to cope with 1 or 2 kg? wow I hope you have good insurance you are going to need it when this stuff causes the door to fail and crushes say a small child.
Also side note, yes you can buy a new door, but hey thats just adding more garbage to the landfill. Should always consider reuse and recycle when doing projects.
Well that is the city's issue. If they want to recycle so bad, they need to pick it out themselves with magnet's etc. I'm not going out of my way to be "green" when the whole basis of that climate crap is not entirely truthful. When they try to silence scientists with dissenting views then you know the people that are pushing green are full of it. Agenda driven, control, taxes, who knows.
Nail polish remover works the best for removal on the skin
How healthy is the air quality after using this product inside your home?
id say less fumes and smell than plastic epoxy that you squeeze out and mix
To get the best soundproofing for a hollow door, is to glue a thick mirror to the door, and then add on all of the other things you were talking about.
In addition to gloves, a hoodie should be worn if working with spray foam overhead. LOL
I wonder if cellulose blow in insulation can be pushed into a hole through top of door
It certainly can
I would consider this a much more viable solution as well since you’re not limited by a material that is a roll of the dice and if you get it wrong there’s no going back.
Drill a couple holes in the top of the door, reach in with a rod and move away the cardboard spacers to the sides/bottom and then insert the blow-in tube. Should be able to use the same store rental machinery as for the rest of the house, with modifications for the tube diameter.
Glue in dowel plugs when you’re done.
I could only WISH for that kind of sound level without anything in it, I have my door closed with a door sweep and I can STILL hear every single word from across the house. What do i do?
try a double-door or solid core door
Stick insulation strips on the frame where it touches the 3 door sides
Acetone lacquer thinner or mineral oil can't take the spray foam off
Hey man, it's sounds crazy, but what if use a sand instead? It will add some mass to the door, right? and it's free :)
The thin panel on the bottom of the door would collapse with the weight of the sand. Good idea though 😊
I used some hydraulic stop cement (it cures in about a minute) and poured it through the top and sides I drilled holes in (I added extra water) it added about 30 pounds to the door and absolutely stopped vibrations from coming through but like you said, sealing around the door is a better 1st option
Oh so funny 🤣 idea. Now that is idea! One I would readily abandon due to unintended outcomes. Grins.
You know this guy got some on his skin and had to good all the information he gave us before hand and gave us a warning out of regret of choice 😂
I love it when a method doesn’t work, especially one I was considering. Thankyou. 👍
It does work, this guy just did it completely wrong.
It works, he basically did it like someone doing a fail task on an infomercial
I’m don’t care about sound so much. It’s just don’t like the feel of cheap hollow core doors.
Does the spray foam make the door have a heavier more expensive feel?
Why not buy mdf panels and put them on the back of a door. MDF would block sound as the solid core doors are MDF. It won’t look pretty but it will work
double door with air gap is best
It does make big difference when it is done by professional
I don't think 1 can is enough to fill the door you need like 2 or 3
The door I was using the product on only had a hollow Center. The two sides, top and bottom parts are solid 😊
I have those exact same doors, the top and bottom panels are hollow. Then there’s cardboard at the bottom and top, creating 2 other cavities. You’d need 4-5 cans for a door.
After watching this and seeing the comments, l am going to try cutting out most of the bottom of the door's frame. Then pull out the cardboard honeycomb. After that l can insert sections of hi-density insulating foamboard into the door. Squeeze the foam in as tight as possible. Maybe use a little bit of spray foam to fill in any gaps.
I'll ❤ this video and try to send in another comment to let you all know how it went.
Please let us know! 😊
Ok
maybe replace it with solid core and do the test?
Probably would have been better to just make sure the gaps around the door are totally sealed
Nope, it’ll help tho
Putting foam stripping does a big difference to HCDs because it's mitigating the vibrations from transferring to/from the surrounding structure and prevents vibrations through air passing around solid objects that take the vibrations and dampen it.
Just adding stripping cuts the sound by a couple decibels and it's like $2-4 of material per door frame to do.
Just pick a brand and color and width etc that matches the frame so it doesn't look tacky
has anyone ever seen inside a hollow core door? there is an array of cardboard lattice to make the two faces not collapse or break easy. spraying foam into most interior doors won't fill anything but the segment of air at that one section of cardboard. perhaps your doors are different, but that would be unusual....
You’re correct Sean, a lot of hollow doors are designed that way. The one I have however is solid core sections around the door and then hollow in the middle.
Does it add any weight to the door
Not enough to make a difference no.
@@soundproofguide if anything it makes the door lighter so make sure it's secured otherwise it will float away.
@@Dime_Bar lol you had me going there for a second “omg he is so stup…. Oh. Wait. Ok. Nvm. Lol “
Why didn't you use soundproofing foam?
that was a little premature before he stuck it in the hole.
😳
I mean you also need to do the rest. Door sweep on hottom, and foam or rubber weatherproofing on the frame. This should be the last thing you do.
It should actually be the first thing you do since some of the time it would be enough for some people to not have to change the door for something better. It's all about how much noise you need to get rid of.
That foam barely travelled from the application site
You only SPL measured one side of the door...would have been more useful to know what your simulated traffic/music was measuring inside that room as well.
Did you expect us to believe you filled the door ? Did you?
I certainly did.
I did all of mine with concrete. Could use sand too.
Really!?? How did that turn out?
@@soundproofguide it was a joke I am sure...
What the what? Smh. Have you measured the noise reduction of solid core vs hollow? 70% more reduction with a solid core. When you properly fill a hollow core and include the other soundproofing needed, the noise reduction is about 50% greater. (Hollow core doors reduce noise approximately 20%, so that’s 70% reduction overall.
Is it the same, no, but your video is blatantly misleading. There’s no way you fill a door with mass and only see a -1dB reduction. Hell, hanging a moving blanket on the door will have a -1dB reduction.
First, you should know that there’s different foams for different purposes. Different densities for different frequencies. And you have to measure the frequencies affected. Bass may be the culprit and not the higher frequencies, or vice versa.
You also have to address sound transmission vs acoustic transmission sound (Vibration vs Air). If your issue is caused by vibration, then filling a door won’t help much.
This absolutely works when done properly 6-7 dB in my experience. And it affects mid to high frequencies more, 800hz +.
You need to drill holes every 12 inches all around the door. And using acoustic foam works even better.
Soundproofing is a combination of things, not just one. Fill the door, seal the frame, soundproof the hinges and door knob. You must address all methods of sound transmission, not just one partially.
Only filling it with foam and saying foam doesn’t work, when you know there’s other steps to be done, is misleading. I’ve done this and had much better results. I’m about to do the same to my new studio door once the Contractors finish all the trim and paint. Makes more sense to fill an $100 door with $40 of foam, than to buy a $266 solid core door. Plus upgrade the hinges and STILL have to seal the frame, door sweep, hinges, and door knob.
Why even bother putting Amazon affiliate links if it was pretty much a failed cause??? I don't understand!
Thanks Soundproof Guide for teaching me what NOT to do and save me the wasted money... Yet my research already led me to a better answer, I just was curious if this would do anything worthy at all.
Can you share what you found as a better answer?
TY
First of all thanks for sharing your video. I didn’t like that you didn’t use gloves and safety glasses. The incident at the beginning of the video could take you to the emergency room. If you noticed that you are doing something unsafe please retake it. I still feel that you could do better job by reding the instructions. I used the product before in the actual application of filling gaps in windows and door frames and I know that one can is not enough for the upper panel. Now that I saw your video I am more curious it this could work if do it different. Again thanks for sharing.
I'm shocked to see virtually no difference. I think I would take the door off the hinge and move it to a safe location before spraying foam. If it lands on your floor or carpet, it's going to be a pain to clean.
Just keep a spray bottle full of acetone sround
There’s definitely a difference when done properly. This guy has no clue what he’s doing. No vent holes so the foam can expand and cure. Should be a hole every 12 inches on both sides, and 2 on the top & bottom. Also need to soundproof the frame and hinges, since sound travels through surfaces and causes vibrations.
TLDR - It does not work.
Biased and unenthusiastic.
Lol
Obviously this 🤡 has never used spray foam ever.
You did not do it right.