Very good tip with the notches on the outer friction discs. The o.e discs have bigger friction material on them but no notches. I have just finished mine but will mention to all that read these comments that having removed the basket I found that there are three problems you will face if you do. So ...TIP- don't remove the basket as you can line up the plates on the front part and slide them in the basket because here is a list of things that where not mentioned in this video that you will face if you remove the basket-- The oil pump sprocket has 4 pins that slot into the back of the basket. These need to be aligned again! The final drive has two heli gears that can mis align if you take out the basket and will have you struggling until you figure out why it won't go home! The washer that sits in the bottom of the basket (yes the one that went 'Ching" in the video when he turned the basket upside down) will not be in the middle on the shaft when you install the basket it will be impossible to sandwich in the middle while you put the basket back in! So.... KEEP IT IN! Then you won't have to remove the washer! And worry about if the oil pump sprocket is aligned and the final drive gears don't miss Align! Much easier job. One more very important tip is to dip the friction discs in engine oil while stacking the pack so they're not going in dry! If you have all the time in the world it's advised you soak them all in the oil over night! Proper job! So.... LEAVE THE BASKET IN AND JUST STACK THE PLATES IN. oh one more thing.. the basket nut is tight because it has a spring washer behind! Take note it says "outside" on it as it is concave in shape and only goes one way and the nut has a chisel mark that needs to be pinged over with chisel and hammer. Can be removed easily with an impact air or cordless half inch gun!
on the Haynes manual to unlock the centre nut on the clutch they showed how you can make a tool to hold the clutch while you undo the centre nut.i would strongly advice you do not use this tool as I did and cracked one of the pillars on the clutch,the pillars that the clutch springs fit on.i put the bike in high gear held the foot brake on and luckily it was enough to undo the nut.there is a collar on the nut which is used to tag the nut,try to untag it the best you can before trying to undo it
hiya djspannamanuk. could you give me any advice how to re sit the clutch basket aligning the oil pump sproket and primary drive gears. yes i proceeded to disassemble before reading your advice and took the damn basket out. now ive spent 6 days trying to get the thing back in. today i grinded the inside of cover plate and clutch wouldnt dissengage when starting the bike. im guessing because the 4 pins were not aligned and therefore not seated properly. maybe you did the same hence your advice? i dont have a manual - will get one. any help appreciated
hi, John Allen. My name is Berhan Habib and i have St1100, honda, 2002. your video was excellent demonstration and inspired me to rebuild my clutch when all of a sudden i start having slipping clutch problem. i found out two of my friction plate and one spacer plates were messed up. i am done with rebuilding my clutch but i am having problem installig the basket. i don't want to force it so i dont have to damage the fear spline , your advicr is very much appreciated. your video is the best of all the one i have seen. thank you.
Berhan Habib the basket will give you two problems if removed. The final gear will move as there is two that need aligning The oil pump sprocket needs to locate in the 4holes at the back of the basket and will be goodbye engine if you don't align those up
Many thanks John. Going to attempt a clutch replacement on my Pan soon. You have certainly removed one or two fears I had. Great instructional video. Regards, Steve.
Brilliant video ,hardest part for me was the oil pump sprocket has 4 pins that locate into the back of the basket. They were a tad tricky . also getting the fairing off what a pain in the arse.
Thanks for you video as you mentiones is not any video for clutch ST1100. My story: I had a problem almost change my clutch for extra presure on the hose, fortunatly I found a very very small covered hole in the master cilinder I used needle to uncovering it and no more problems... excelent video for reference.
8.30.15. It's recommended that you soak the friction plates in oil, for & hour or so, before there're stacked. I can't help but notice that you guys in England have your engines cases heavily oxidized! Good video! 🇺🇸🇬🇧
Great How to Video John, I'm suffering the same issue with my pan and am trying to get everything ready for a europe trip in a few months, i have bought replacement seal kits for the slave and master but wanted to see how to just change the clutch whilst I'm down there. its a lot less daunting than i thought so going to give it a crack and have ordered new clutch plates now too. Keep up the good work :)
Hi John, nice video there to show what's involved. I did mine a while back because of clutch snatching with blued metal plates being the cause. One point to note is the '91 models have two extra anti-judder rings in the clutch and that washer in the basket needs to be replaced with the chamfered side out. Soaking the plates in oil is also common practice. It's all in the .pdf service manual that can be downloaded from t'internet, but then us blokes never need those things, do we?
I am about to rebuild my clutch MC on my 01 steed. It has 47,000 miles on it. It has a slight leak at the lever. I noticed that the clutch engages when the lever is almost all the way out and being new to this bike it causes me to ride the clutch a little in 2nd gear. This should fix itself with my learning curve of riding it more. I have watched a video on a break mc repair and I think( hope) it is the same procedure for the clutch mc.
Quite lovely and well demonstrated. Been looking at the ST1100 for some time. Getting prepared to make the leap of faith after lots of investigation. Love my '91 K100RS but maintenance is difficult. This ST1100 in some ways is similar. Have you replaced the timing belt? Would love to see that as well. Many thanks and well appreciated.
Hi John Thanks for the video, very helpful. I had a problem w changing gear for my 1991 Honda Touring ST 1100. I can't even get 1st gear. I changed the MASTER CYLINDER AND LEVER. CHANGEd THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER and the piston set, we did the bleeding and still not able to change gear. Should I move to Clutch dismantle and replace the metal plates?
Hi john got a gew problems i pulled off the fues pipe to check for fuel getting to engine it when for a while not turning over want start . Also rectifire on a 1990 plate where is it please
so how did you put the clutch basket back . " The re build is the exact reverse of the dismantle" you've got two helical gears in opposition and 4 pins to line up the oil pump. How did you do this ?
Hi John nice video. I see you were using 10w-20 Fully synthetic engine oil. I've been advised to use Semi Synthetic as the other is reported to cause clutch slip. How is yours running with it in? Cheers
thanks for the video john, ive two st1100's.....98 and 2000.....will keep this video for future reference, thanks for doing, ps have you still got yours ?
john, when you reinstalled how tight did you tighten down the clutch spring bolts ?? and my first and last friction plates have no slots in them like yours ? regards nigel
Nigel Mapes the spring bolts will be ok at around 20nm or just done up with a 1/4inch ratchet held close to the ratchet end not the end, end if that makes sense and as for the friction plates the outer ones will have larger friction material on them
@@trainsitecouk : First : You have to install the big washer behind the 'clutch outer compartment' with the rounded edge facing you. Second : You will have to line up the triangelar markings in the 'center clutch' and the 'clutch plate pers'. Third : The washer behind the lock nut must be installed with the inscription ( out ) facing you. ( tip : Put the new friction plates ( not the steal ones ) in engine oil 24 hours before installing. That way the will not burn so easy when riding the bike for the first time.
will do , i've done the master and slave cylinders, still cant get bike into first without it lurching forward and stalling, gotta be the plates are stuck together.......bloody motorbikes eh
John Allen . Thanks buddy. It seems weird to me that they would only be done up that loose. I'm thinking maybe my springs are weak. I'll order new ones and try it with them. Thanks for your help! :-)
clutch fade on my 1100 with 42000 on the clock replaced fluid but no change gonna go the full replacement as you have-did this fix your prob????? and why did you remove exhaust??? can this job be done without exhaust removal??
alan chisnall Hi Alan , Yes the problem did disappear after complete overhaul of cylinders and clutch plates. You have to remove the O/S exhause to be able to remove some of the bolts securing the clutch houseing. One thing to note , if you remove the clutch basket , ensure you line up the four pegs on the oil pump wheel when you put it back on. I didn't and landed up having to strip it all again just for that.... should have read the manual more throughly... :)
biricasorin The bike only has 46500 miles. When the problem arises of losing the clutch when the bike is hot or slow riding, there is no way of knowing exactly what component is causing the problem. I initially replaced just the clutch fluid as a lot of views were that the fluid probably had moisture in it. That made no difference so I then decided to replace the components in both the main and slave cylinders, but again some views are that it could be caused by the plates. Unfortunatly one of the bolts which hold the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing snapped so I had to take the clutch housing off to be able to remove the remainder of the bolt and whilst the cover was off I decided I might as well go the whole way and change the clutch plates as well. The clutch hose had been dispatched today so hopefully I will have the bike back on the road for the weekend and take her out for a test ride. As I said in the video , whilst it’s all stripped down then oil/oil filter change is a no brainer but then you might as well do the air filter, plugs etc. Started off as being a few quid but landed up being over £200 with parts, oils etc.
Very good tip with the notches on the outer friction discs. The o.e discs have bigger friction material on them but no notches.
I have just finished mine but will mention to all that read these comments that having removed the basket I found that there are three problems you will face if you do. So ...TIP- don't remove the basket as you can line up the plates on the front part and slide them in the basket because here is a list of things that where not mentioned in this video that you will face if you remove the basket--
The oil pump sprocket has 4 pins that slot into the back of the basket. These need to be aligned again!
The final drive has two heli gears that can mis align if you take out the basket and will have you struggling until you figure out why it won't go home!
The washer that sits in the bottom of the basket (yes the one that went 'Ching" in the video when he turned the basket upside down) will not be in the middle on the shaft when you install the basket it will be impossible to sandwich in the middle while you put the basket back in!
So.... KEEP IT IN! Then you won't have to remove the washer! And worry about if the oil pump sprocket is aligned and the final drive gears don't miss Align! Much easier job.
One more very important tip is to dip the friction discs in engine oil while stacking the pack so they're not going in dry! If you have all the time in the world it's advised you soak them all in the oil over night! Proper job! So.... LEAVE THE BASKET IN AND JUST STACK THE PLATES IN.
oh one more thing.. the basket nut is tight because it has a spring washer behind! Take note it says "outside" on it as it is concave in shape and only goes one way and the nut has a chisel mark that needs to be pinged over with chisel and hammer. Can be removed easily with an impact air or cordless half inch gun!
on the Haynes manual to unlock the centre nut on the clutch they showed how you can make a tool to hold the clutch while you undo the centre nut.i would strongly advice you do not use this tool as I did and cracked one of the pillars on the clutch,the pillars that the clutch springs fit on.i put the bike in high gear held the foot brake on and luckily it was enough to undo the nut.there is a collar on the nut which is used to tag the nut,try to untag it the best you can before trying to undo it
hiya djspannamanuk. could you give me any advice how to re sit the clutch basket aligning the oil pump sproket and primary drive gears. yes i proceeded to disassemble before reading your advice and took the damn basket out. now ive spent 6 days trying to get the thing back in. today i grinded the inside of cover plate and clutch wouldnt dissengage when starting the bike. im guessing because the 4 pins were not aligned and therefore not seated properly. maybe you did the same hence your advice? i dont have a manual - will get one. any help appreciated
You must see this vídeo mate:th-cam.com/video/9ZL-xg12pG8/w-d-xo.html
@@motobikeuk8123 I'm having same problem di you find how to do it.
hi, John Allen. My name is Berhan Habib and i have St1100, honda, 2002. your video was excellent demonstration and inspired me to rebuild my clutch when all of a sudden i start having slipping clutch problem. i found out two of my friction plate and one spacer plates were messed up. i am done with rebuilding my clutch but i am having problem installig the basket. i don't want to force it so i dont have to damage the fear spline , your advicr is very much appreciated. your video is the best of all the one i have seen. thank you.
Berhan Habib the basket will give you two problems if removed. The final gear will move as there is two that need aligning
The oil pump sprocket needs to locate in the 4holes at the back of the basket and will be goodbye engine if you don't align those up
Many thanks John. Going to attempt a clutch replacement on my Pan soon. You have certainly removed one or two fears I had. Great instructional video. Regards, Steve.
Brilliant video ,hardest part for me was the oil pump sprocket has 4 pins that locate into the back of the basket. They were a tad tricky . also getting the fairing off what a pain in the arse.
Thanks for you video as you mentiones is not any video for clutch ST1100. My story: I had a problem almost change my clutch for extra presure on the hose, fortunatly I found a very very small covered hole in the master cilinder I used needle to uncovering it and no more problems... excelent video for reference.
8.30.15. It's recommended that you soak the friction plates in oil, for & hour or so, before there're stacked. I can't help but notice that you guys in England have your engines cases heavily oxidized! Good video! 🇺🇸🇬🇧
Great job, John! Thank you!!
Regards, John
STOC 1058 1991 ST1100 @186K
Excellent instructional video there. Took a lot of the fear away for me :) Thanks a lot John!
+Zygmunt Kletterstein Hi, Glad it helped.
Great How to Video John, I'm suffering the same issue with my pan and am trying to get everything ready for a europe trip in a few months, i have bought replacement seal kits for the slave and master but wanted to see how to just change the clutch whilst I'm down there. its a lot less daunting than i thought so going to give it a crack and have ordered new clutch plates now too. Keep up the good work :)
Thanks for making this John, not sure but feel like i'm about to hit same problem on my '91 (140.000km)
Hi John, nice video there to show what's involved. I did mine a while back because of clutch snatching with blued metal plates being the cause. One point to note is the '91 models have two extra anti-judder rings in the clutch and that washer in the basket needs to be replaced with the chamfered side out. Soaking the plates in oil is also common practice. It's all in the .pdf service manual that can be downloaded from t'internet, but then us blokes never need those things, do we?
a very well made video and extremely helpful. thanks for your time.
hi john, my 98 clutch i think is seized, wont go into gear this year after storage........looks like your video is gonna be a life saver......regards
+Nigel Mapes Hi Nigel, hope it helps. If you need any more advise just post on here and I'll see if I can help.
Saved me a bit of work there thanks
That's made everything so clear- many thanks 😃
+Tom Westwater Hi Tom, Glad it helped.
Yep a well produced video. I didnt realise they had a dry clutch.. thanks
I am about to rebuild my clutch MC on my 01 steed. It has 47,000 miles on it. It has a slight leak at the lever. I noticed that the clutch engages when the lever is almost all the way out and being new to this bike it causes me to ride the clutch a little in 2nd gear. This should fix itself with my learning curve of riding it more. I have watched a video on a break mc repair and I think( hope) it is the same procedure for the clutch mc.
Quite lovely and well demonstrated. Been looking at the ST1100 for some time. Getting prepared to make the leap of faith after lots of investigation. Love my '91 K100RS but maintenance is difficult. This ST1100 in some ways is similar. Have you replaced the timing belt? Would love to see that as well. Many thanks and well appreciated.
What a brilliant vidio,thank you very much.
Hi John
Thanks for the video, very helpful.
I had a problem w changing gear for my 1991 Honda Touring ST 1100. I can't even get 1st gear. I changed the MASTER CYLINDER AND LEVER. CHANGEd THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER and the piston set, we did the bleeding and still not able to change gear.
Should I move to Clutch dismantle and replace the metal plates?
Liked your video, so glad I found it....
Well done ...doing mine now what make clutch did you buy ??
Great video
Hi john got a gew problems i pulled off the fues pipe to check for fuel getting to engine it when for a while not turning over want start .
Also rectifire on a 1990 plate where is it please
Можно нажать задний тормоз.поставить 5ю передачу и открутить гайку сцепления 30,в корзине должны совпасть метки в окошке когда ставишь диски!
thank you, kind sir.
Would have liked to see the Master Cyclinder and Slave cylinder refurbishment
so how did you put the clutch basket back . " The re build is the exact reverse of the dismantle" you've got two helical gears in opposition and 4 pins to line up the oil pump. How did you do this ?
Good joooobs !!!
Thanks prof video!!!
👍✌️
Really helpful thanks!
Hi John nice video. I see you were using 10w-20 Fully synthetic engine oil. I've been advised to use Semi Synthetic as the other is reported to cause clutch slip. How is yours running with it in? Cheers
+M Tommo Hi,
I've had no issues at all using the fully synthetic.
thanks for the video john, ive two st1100's.....98 and 2000.....will keep this video for future reference, thanks for doing, ps have you still got yours ?
Nigel Mapes Hi Nigel, Yes still have my ST1100 , lovely bike and I hope to have it for some time yet.
+John Allen I reckon that the ST1100 is a really nice bike. Wanting to buy one when I get off my Probationary Licence.
john, when you reinstalled how tight did you tighten down the clutch spring bolts ?? and my first and last friction plates have no slots in them like yours ? regards nigel
Nigel Mapes the spring bolts will be ok at around 20nm or just done up with a 1/4inch ratchet held close to the ratchet end not the end, end if that makes sense and as for the friction plates the outer ones will have larger friction material on them
You forgot critical information ( regarding the big ring and the markings inside the basket ). Without it it will not work.
Give more detail please... clutch still going well!
@@trainsitecouk : First : You have to install the big washer behind the 'clutch outer compartment' with the rounded edge facing you. Second : You will have to line up the triangelar markings in the 'center clutch' and the 'clutch plate pers'. Third : The washer behind the lock nut must be installed with the inscription ( out ) facing you. ( tip : Put the new friction plates ( not the steal ones ) in engine oil 24 hours before installing. That way the will not burn so easy when riding the bike for the first time.
will do , i've done the master and slave cylinders, still cant get bike into first without it lurching forward and stalling, gotta be the plates are stuck together.......bloody motorbikes eh
Hi John.. how far in did you do up the lifter bolts. If I do them to 20nm they are almost fully home and there is no reserve travel for the clutch.
I did them to hand tight and then 1/4 turn with the ratchet. Bike still going well after 2 years 3 months. J.
John Allen . Thanks buddy. It seems weird to me that they would only be done up that loose. I'm thinking maybe my springs are weak. I'll order new ones and try it with them. Thanks for your help! :-)
oh deer, always lay the new plates in fresh oil before reassemble. yes, it will be a mash
clutch fade on my 1100 with 42000 on the clock
replaced fluid but no change
gonna go the full replacement as you have-did this fix your prob?????
and why did you remove exhaust??? can this job be done without exhaust removal??
alan chisnall Hi Alan , Yes the problem did disappear after complete overhaul of cylinders and clutch plates. You have to remove the O/S exhause to be able to remove some of the bolts securing the clutch houseing. One thing to note , if you remove the clutch basket , ensure you line up the four pegs on the oil pump wheel when you put it back on. I didn't and landed up having to strip it all again just for that.... should have read the manual more throughly... :)
John Allen thanks for replyjust trolling for parts now-im gonna try a rattle gun on the main centre nut
It says to soak the clutch plates in whatever oil you use in the bike did you do this? Or did i miss a step? lol
No, i didnt soak them. But had no negative effect.
No, i didnt soak them. But had no negative effect.
I wander how many miles do you have on the bike?
Mine has 106000km and i dont have any problems.
biricasorin
The bike only has 46500 miles. When the problem arises of losing the clutch when the bike is hot or slow riding, there is no way of knowing exactly what component is causing the problem. I initially replaced just the clutch fluid as a lot of views were that the fluid probably had moisture in it. That made no difference so I then decided to replace the components in both the main and slave cylinders, but again some views are that it could be caused by the plates. Unfortunatly one of the bolts which hold the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing snapped so I had to take the clutch housing off to be able to remove the remainder of the bolt and whilst the cover was off I decided I might as well go the whole way and change the clutch plates as well.
The clutch hose had been dispatched today so hopefully I will have the bike back on the road for the weekend and take her out for a test ride.
As I said in the video , whilst it’s all stripped down then oil/oil filter change is a no brainer but then you might as well do the air filter, plugs etc. Started off as being a few quid but landed up being over £200 with parts, oils etc.