I'm halfway through building mine. What's ironic is the Black & Decker 1303S Oven uses 1950's bimetal strip tech as a thermocontroller. My experience with such cheap devices, ( Barn Heater ) are that they wear out in 2 years, requiring adjusting the thermostat more & more until the arcs totally erode the surface. It's called planned obsolescence.Then you dispose of the device and buy another. Wiring in this Controleo3 kit, will make this oven solid state and operate many years longer than it's initial intention. I also cut my finger and appreciate the bandaid included in the kit.
Sorry for this very delayed reply but thank you for your comment. That's the power of TH-cam. In fact, I don't really use the oven anymore but glad it still helps people.
Wow, amazing build! The description of your build was very accurate and thorough. I think the only comment I can make is that the boost element is probably not necessary given the overall power (1600W) and size (9l). That would make the build a bit easier. Thanks for documenting your build so well, and sharing it. This video is solid gold. - Peter (Controleo3 developer)
Thanks for the video, great work! What made you choose to build it with 4 elements out of 2 toasters? Is it worth it to build it with 2 toasters rather than just 1? I'm planning a build, and trying to determine if the "standard model" as described will work fine for me, or if I should just do it right the first time and build a 4 element "deluxe model". It doesn't seem to be too much more work to make a deluxe model, rather than a single toaster. And the cost isn't extreme, at about $40 for the extra toaster. Any advice?
Sorry I've missed your question. You need a) a lot of power b) separate control for top and bottom elements. At least 230V models of these oven have two 115V elements in series, meaning you cannot control them separately. In the US they are probably in parallel so you could. Not sure if power would be enough then. Maybe. The building was certainly a LOT more painful due to re-fitting of all these elements. So if you find a suitable oven where you don't need to move them, it's a lot easier.
should you keep thermocouple wires so close to the power cables ? These wires are sensitive and can induce fair bit of noise from "switching" AC signal flowing through the power cable
They are a few centimeters away which is what is achievable reasonably in that space; and also mostly on other side of the aluminium plate. But you're right, they are sensitive and shouldn't be tied together with other cables, for example.
Is it possible to make a m/b pre-heater with the bottom / lower portion of a toaster oven, using 2 or 3 quartz elements? Not to put the whole PCB in it, but just to pre heat prior to heating a m/b GPU for solder reflow. Thanks
I think it was 20-30mins. But you only need to do it once (unless you want to experiment with different sensor locations like I did) or when something significantly changes in the oven or surrounding temperature.
Very useful. Thank you. Also great to see it done from the UK/EU perspective where it is hard to buy ovens with good quartz elements which are 230V. I also picked an oven which has 2x115V elements. I will buy a second one and do the same as you did. That was my plan already, but seeing you do it has made me more confident that this is the right way. I was debating whether I will need the boost element. My oven is 900W, so 4 elements will be 1800W and it is only ~10L like yours. So with the boost from the kits it will massively powered. (I have 2x this oven : www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07MS9NNLK/ ) Interesting that you found the cool down rate difficult. This might be solvable with software? I can understand that it would be hard to find just the right amount of servo angle to get the cool rate right. I don't think that part of the profile is very critical, but if you care about it, it should be possible to do either: a) keep controlling using the servo angle all the way down. ie use a whole separate PID loop to open/close the door ... not a simple change, but should be possible. b) Open the door "slightly too much" and "backfill" this with some heating. ie slow the down the cooling by keeping the elements on a little bit. again requires new PID loop/parameters. (... I am a control systems engineer so I may be overcomplicating this...)
I'm halfway through building mine. What's ironic is the Black & Decker 1303S Oven uses 1950's bimetal strip tech as a thermocontroller. My experience with such cheap devices, ( Barn Heater ) are that they wear out in 2 years, requiring adjusting the thermostat more & more until the arcs totally erode the surface. It's called planned obsolescence.Then you dispose of the device and buy another. Wiring in this Controleo3 kit, will make this oven solid state and operate many years longer than it's initial intention. I also cut my finger and appreciate the bandaid included in the kit.
thanks for taking them time to document our build. Years later and the video is still helping people
Sorry for this very delayed reply but thank you for your comment. That's the power of TH-cam. In fact, I don't really use the oven anymore but glad it still helps people.
Wow, amazing build! The description of your build was very accurate and thorough. I think the only comment I can make is that the boost element is probably not necessary given the overall power (1600W) and size (9l). That would make the build a bit easier. Thanks for documenting your build so well, and sharing it. This video is solid gold. - Peter (Controleo3 developer)
Thank you for developing this thing!
Very well explained, thanks for your work!
Thanks for the video, great work!
What made you choose to build it with 4 elements out of 2 toasters? Is it worth it to build it with 2 toasters rather than just 1? I'm planning a build, and trying to determine if the "standard model" as described will work fine for me, or if I should just do it right the first time and build a 4 element "deluxe model". It doesn't seem to be too much more work to make a deluxe model, rather than a single toaster. And the cost isn't extreme, at about $40 for the extra toaster. Any advice?
Sorry I've missed your question. You need a) a lot of power b) separate control for top and bottom elements. At least 230V models of these oven have two 115V elements in series, meaning you cannot control them separately. In the US they are probably in parallel so you could. Not sure if power would be enough then. Maybe. The building was certainly a LOT more painful due to re-fitting of all these elements. So if you find a suitable oven where you don't need to move them, it's a lot easier.
should you keep thermocouple wires so close to the power cables ? These wires are sensitive and can induce fair bit of noise from "switching" AC signal flowing through the power cable
They are a few centimeters away which is what is achievable reasonably in that space; and also mostly on other side of the aluminium plate. But you're right, they are sensitive and shouldn't be tied together with other cables, for example.
@@kaamostech Cool. I am currently building my own controller & reflow oven . Will try to implement some of the tricks you showed in your video.
Is it possible to make a m/b pre-heater with the bottom / lower portion of a toaster oven, using 2 or 3 quartz elements? Not to put the whole PCB in it, but just to pre heat prior to heating a m/b GPU for solder reflow. Thanks
Maybe, I'm not sure. At least make sure it is safe to use if planning anything like that.
I also laughed at the bandage... then 5 minutes later cut a deep gash into my knuckle.
Really cool!
Cool! How long takes the learn cycle?
I think it was 20-30mins. But you only need to do it once (unless you want to experiment with different sensor locations like I did) or when something significantly changes in the oven or surrounding temperature.
Very useful. Thank you. Also great to see it done from the UK/EU perspective where it is hard to buy ovens with good quartz elements which are 230V. I also picked an oven which has 2x115V elements. I will buy a second one and do the same as you did. That was my plan already, but seeing you do it has made me more confident that this is the right way.
I was debating whether I will need the boost element. My oven is 900W, so 4 elements will be 1800W and it is only ~10L like yours. So with the boost from the kits it will massively powered. (I have 2x this oven : www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07MS9NNLK/ )
Interesting that you found the cool down rate difficult. This might be solvable with software? I can understand that it would be hard to find just the right amount of servo angle to get the cool rate right. I don't think that part of the profile is very critical, but if you care about it, it should be possible to do either:
a) keep controlling using the servo angle all the way down. ie use a whole separate PID loop to open/close the door ... not a simple change, but should be possible.
b) Open the door "slightly too much" and "backfill" this with some heating. ie slow the down the cooling by keeping the elements on a little bit. again requires new PID loop/parameters.
(... I am a control systems engineer so I may be overcomplicating this...)
aaaand subbed!