Adventurer 3 Feed Gear Upgrade - How To
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 เม.ย. 2019
- We decided to change out our feed gears on the Adventurer 3's we use as well as the ones we supply to our customers and the results are pretty fantastic. Check it out.
If you are looking to purchase this gear make sure the outside diameter is 11mm and the inside diameter is 5mm.
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This saved my bacon when my TPU filament jammed. Thank you so much for this detailed guide!
Same bro
Interesting tutorial, thanks! There is a way of pulling out the whole piece as one, just remove the two philips screws , disconnect the electric plug and the feeding tube, then you can work all the rest on the table. ;-)
Great video. I found that I could take the two black screws out and pull the whole assembly through and then unplug the stepper motor. Then disassembly was easy with no hassle removing the spring assembly etc. I reassembled the unit and was able to slide it back in after connecting the plug on the stepper motor. I might have been lucky, but I have done this twice now and it worked.
Great video thanks - my adventurer started making a knocking noise and not feeding filament. The nozzle was not clogged. Following your video I took apart the feeder, reassembled - and its working again. Thanks!!!!
Did you reassemble with upgraded feed gear, or the original one?
that spring was a pain, thanks for the guide!
Big help when I had a piece of broken filament stuck inside the Bowden tube, thanks! After disassembling the frame from the stepper motor, I could get to the stepper end of the tube and just push it the filament out. Reassembled and everything worked like new :-)
Thanks. The feeder gear teeth had clogged during a very long print. I did this swap while the print was paused and I did it without unplugging the motor. Worked great! This works for Adventurer 4 as well FYI.
Great video, thanks for the help and tips. I change my feed gear and instant had no more problems with feeding. Secondly, I also did like one other guy said, first simply dismount the complete housing, and after on the table uninstall the motor :))))
Glad to read it.
Thank you very much!
You actually only need to remove the spring loaded tensioner. I had no problems whatsoever replacing the gear without removing the stepper motor. Just turn the motor so the screw is accessible and use a hex key with ball end
I would recommend using a touch of blue locktite on the set screw. Metal in metal thread set screws often work themselves lose. I had to use it on my creality printer. Feed gear coming lose will ruin your print. I always use blue locktite on rc cars motor gears, if not the RC car gears will destroy themselves.
I have a feeder that is not working correctly, I was wondering if you have a video on how to adjust the feeder (before having to replace it)
@Imagination Technologies By adding the brass gear did the knocking noise that you get when you print minimize?
How do you release the filament when trying to unload it
I got a bearing next to the feed gear that appears to be slipping. Is there a way to loosen it or clean it
Hmm that looks like a 26 tooth gear? Will the 40 tooth work just as well?
I do this by taking off the top of the sping assy so 1 cap head then remove the gear with a stubby Alan key cut down to about 4mm so I can change the gear in about 2 mins on the steal ones
You said in another comment that the new gear mixed with the new nozzle helps with different filaments, which ones are you referring to?
ABS and PETG have a noticeable difference for me with the new gear installed.
@@imaginationtechnology6291 It was after trying to print with Petg i found your video, had major underextrusion with Petg, to the point my prints where useless. Waiting for a 26tooth now, hope it will help. Thanks for the vid :)
Is there a link so I can get the brass feed gear?
Where do you get the new gears from?
Where would you recommend to get one of the brass feed gears?
Nice tutorial.
You can use whatever gear gets the job done. I worry a bit about brass in case teeth wear down and leave bits behind.
@@imaginationtechnology6291 Sorry. I meant Where can these be purchased?
@@dalelstrandWell you can purchase them from Amazon, most 3D printer parts retailers etc.
Like I switched to this gear and all it does it grind the idler and doesn’t push filament in at all just grinds it up
The replacement motor I received has an extra chip/board inside, and a black wire coming out. Any idea what's up with that?
It could be an encoded stepper motor, should have only four wires and a plug.
Nice tutorial. You didn't really say how they perform though. How do they perform? Do they address the dreadful clicking and slipping?
Performance has improved greatly, which sort of prompted the making of the video to help the community. There is a new nozzle available now from Flashforge that really eliminates the need for the gear. We've kept ours on the printers even with the new nozzle as it helps with using different types of filament.
@@imaginationtechnology6291 Thanks for the reply. I bought one of these a few weeks back and I'm trying to work out whether to keep it or return it. I normally use a FF Creator Pro for making custom motor and modelling parts, but I need a second one for prototyping plus production runs (if I'm busy). I've found the clicking and slipping a real annoyance, and the bachlash is pretty bad, meaning it never retains calibration. I'm also finding it really hard to get a flat, level top surface on prints with larger areas (which is useless for parts that are supposed to mate with others).
I've spent literally hours and hours or tweaking, but it's getting to the stage where I think it might be best returning it and get something different, but I'm willing to give it one more chance. I just wanted a printer that worked, which is what this is supposed to as it's marketed as needing little in the way of tinkering, it even the bed leveling (or lack of it) is a pain...printing rafts for everything shouldn't be the solution!
If this mod helps stop slipping, that is great, but the nozzle sounds interesting. I've not heard about that. Do you know what's different about it? I've found g gb is pretty decent for abs, which is one reason for keeping, but not enough on its own!
@@StrathpefferJunction I'm not sure if your are on Facebook or not but there is a community there that will probably be able to solve most of the dreaded clunking issues. There is also information on the new nozzle style for you to browse and a host of user mods as well. facebook.com/groups/1183417165156337 . Definitely worth a look.
@@imaginationtechnology6291 Thank you!
@@imaginationtechnology6291 so i too have been having the slipping problem, but even with PLA. Does this gear change completely stop slipping with PLA? While i am aware of the new nozzle, i only mostly print in PLA and the cost propositions are vastly different. So heres my question to you , again, does this mod completely stop the slipping or is it to be paired with some slicer tweaks too?
I now have, a ADV 3 with the 50 teeth gear, but it seems to be too tight? Seems that the guide wheel will stop sometimes and the filament just slides in it, without turning? When using a 11mm, isn’t this quite bigger than the original? I have heavy underextrusion with the new gear, seems to much pressure?
I just looked at your video again, does your gear touch the guide wheel when no filament? My gear touches the guide wheel, if there is no filament in.
Well I've got a stack of gears here and they are all 11mm (original and new), did the spring and idler wheel go back in smoothly? Perhaps something is sticking or not quite right?
@@imaginationtechnology6291 do your gear hit the guider wheel, when there is no filament ind? So if you run the extruder with no filament, it actually hits the guide wheel?
@@martinherse3272 yes it does but the wheel rotates nicely when filament is running through.
Where can I get a 40 tooth gear? Or a 50 tooth gear? THANK YOU!
You should be able to find them on Amazon or AliExpress or possibly even your local 3D printer supplier.
Where did you buy your feed gears from please
You can get them from Amazon or most 3D printer retailers.
I accidentally got a 26 teeth gear, will I be alright?
Oh yeah. Just watch to see how things go, change if necessary.
Imagination Technology ok thank you for replying
I’ve lost the spring inside 🤦🏽♀️ How do I retrieve it?
Turn it upside down, carefully and shake it out?
Thank you for replying, I’ve tried doing that and it no longer rattles so I think it’s stuck in there somewhere. I’ve messaged FlashForge but they haven’t given me advice to solve it yet. I feel I need to take some of the casing off but I can’t find instructions or a video so I’m nervous to try.
@@AverageZoeBlogs oh darn. It's been awhile since I've taken this machine apart. There might be a way under the bottom panel.
I really appreciate you replying, I’m going to try it. Thank you 🙏🏽 Your videos are great, new subscriber here!!!
Ok thanks to you and this FlashForge video I was able to take the side panel off. I just used the first few steps, not the whole thing. Just posting in case it helps someone else. th-cam.com/video/jJcUgSRN8FU/w-d-xo.html
can I use tpu on this printer?
Yes you can, there's even a preset for it in the software.
@castcreator1 youre right theres no preset, but i managed to do it, im very familiar with this printer now
@castcreator1 235 celsius, 0,18mm 35mm/s, 65 celsius on plataform, and ive cut 1 turn of the spring of feeder
I would fire immediately a technician that put the extruder in that position
I appreciate the tutorial, but I'm seeing a lot more hands than screws and gears.
Shit just cranks now doesn’t seem it fits still doesn’t work
awwwwww I know I have to do this to make the chomp chomp chomp sound go away aaaaaaww I dont feel like it aaaaaahhhh first world problem to its fullest. haaaaaaawww
Can’t see anything position your camera better next time
uhh..the positioning was fine.